Content Page 6.1 Cultural Value and Fashion 1 6.1.1 Design Concepts of Different Cultures 3 6.1.2 The Evolution of Historical Western Costume in the 20th 3 Century 6.1.3 National Costumes of East Asia & India 30 6.2 Factors Contributing to Fashion Trends in Local and Global 40 Context 6.2.1 Fashion Trend 40 6.2.2 The Change of Fashion 41 6.3 Fashion Designers 46 6.3.1 Exploring a Career in Fashion 46 6.3.2 Design Beliefs and Style 56 6.4 Total Image for Fashion Design 59 6.4.1 The Nature of Fashion Image 59 6.4.2 Major Fashion Styles 59 6.4.3 Use of Materials 66 6.4.4 Use of Fashion Accessories 68 6.1 Cultural Value and Fashion Clothing has been an integral part of human life since prehistoric time. Throughout history, clothing has provided adornment, modesty, protection, identification and status. It has also reflected the change of our geographical, social, political, economic and technological development. Clothing has also played important roles in different historical and cultural events. All these different aspects also in turn contribute to the design, styling, colour or silhouettes of clothing worn by people. Customs dictate what is deemed acceptable by a society, religions and laws play a role by determining what colours and styles are allowed. For instance, for ancient Roman, tyrian purple could only be worn by Roman senators. In China, only the Emperor could wear golden yellow. In Hawaii, only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs could wear feather cloaks and palaoas or carved whale teeth. Until now, the Amish continue to wear simple styles and dark colours that reflect their religious believes. They adopt a very plain style of clothing to show that they do not conform to worldly standards. The Amish do not believe in violence because belts and buttons were prominent features of military uniforms in the 18th century. Most Amish men still do not wear belts or buttons on their coats. Moreover, historical and political events have had strong influence on the development and adaptation of fashion silhouettes. People responses to events that take place around the globe have often been reflected in fashion. During the Second World War, popular silhouettes at the time were mostly narrow because of fabric rationing. Another reason is that women’s fashion designers at the time appropriated details of work and military uniforms as women themselves mobilized as the domestic workforce to replace men who had been sent to war. Besides, nylon stockings were willingly sacrificed to serve the patriotic cause and women resorted to painting vertical stripes on their legs to simulate the seams of sheer hosiery. After the end of the war, demand for nylon stockings was greater than ever and women reveled in the twenty-yard gathered skirts of Christian Dior’s “New Look” fashions, abundance of fabric bursting from tiny waists into voluminous folds. In the 60s, space travel captured the imagination of the public as National Aeronautics and Space Adminstration (NASA) strove to put a man on the moon. This excitement was reflected in many designers’ fashions from that decade. Throughout history, people of all cultures have adorned themselves. Apart from its practical function as covering and protection, clothing has served to distinguish people socially, economically, and culturally. Modes of dress distinguished monks 1 from peasants from kings. Before the advent of machines, “fashion” was exclusively limited to the elite few who could afford to have beautiful clothing made for them by professional clothing artists; in this regard, it served as a means of expression for the rich and noble and a socioeconomic indicator for everyone else. Irish fisherman traditionally wore sweaters knitted in patterns representing clan and home (Siegel,1999 & Eliso Dee Co, 2000). On the contrary, technical influence of textile production during the Industrial Revolution, which created the expanding range of qualities and prices of fabric, and socially leveling and political change after the French Revolution engendered a fashion industry that provided choices of clothing to all classes of society (Bernire, 1989). Textile production was one of the driving forces generated by the Industrial Revolution. Some occupations require unique styles of clothing that may date back many centuries. Ministers, priests and other clergy members usually wear special clothing for conducting religious services. Judges wear a traditional black robe in the court. These special robes or shawls visually identify the person’s role. And also, special colours and styles of clothing are worn for special occasions. Many brides in the West wear a traditional white wedding gown with long veil. University graduates usually wear long robes and mortarboard hats with tassels to receive their diplomas. Every day people make conscious decisions about the way how they want to present ourselves through clothing. Fashion exists as a means of creating an outward appearance that reflects something about the individual, whether it is identification with a cultural movement such as hip hop, a economic status such as a professional executive or a personal preference. The clothes that people wear relate their bodies and personalities to things around them and are extremely personal systems of identity that they construct with deliberation and care. Thus, fashions are a language that communicates self-identity and group identity with instant impact. Sometimes, people buy clothes and wear them in combinations that are deliberately or subconsciously contrived to convey either true or false impressions of ourselves to others. Some of the personal characteristics that they wish to reveal or hide including their age, sexual orientation, size, shape, economic or marital status, occupation, religious affiliation, self-esteem, attitudes and importance. In theatres and films, costume designers actively manipulate the symbolic meaning of clothing by loading the characters with items that they recognise as typical of various occupations and attitudes. A wide range of stereotypes has evolved in this way (Sue Jenkyn Jones, 2002). It is the job of fashion designers to experiment with identity and appearances 2 through clothing. They must offer designs that allow people the opportunity to project their own individualism. In modern societies, there are no laws to restrict how people wear. Instead, the cost of a garment affects more individuals’ purchases. For instance, the rich are more likely to be able to afford exclusive and luxurious styles. Indeed, economic factors influence the kind of styling, fabrics, silhouettes, quality and quantity of garments any given consumer may purchase. Technology plays its part through the development of new fabrics and new methods of construction, which in turn enhances the quality and structure of fashion style. Today, the fashion industry is international. Hundreds of thousands of styles can be purchased in various fashion boutiques at every price level and in different standard sizes. With a huge variety of clothing available to almost everyone, what people wear today is much more of a personal choice than an economically or socially driven necessity. 6.1.1 Design Concepts of Different Cultures Fashion is a mirror of the times. It reflects a given culture at a given point in time. Historical costume has showed the details about the lifestyles of people from various past cultures. Research into the history of particular cultures and designer’s work can show how the visual appearance and function of a garment have changed over the years, help understand why fashion design has changed, raise awareness of social, political, economic and technical factors such as changes in attitudes and tastes. A better understanding in historical costumes can help predict the way how fashion might develop in the future. Understanding the meaning of fashion helps explain how these transformations happen. Fashions have changed very quickly throughout the 20th century. 6.1.2 The Evolution of Historical Western Costume in the 20th Century Each period has had a characteristic style that sets it apart from other times. Some styles became fashionable even though they were uncomfortable or unsafe. For instance, in the beginning of the nineteenth century, women were considered inferior to the male. They were expected to wear impractical design of corset to prevent physical movement. They were cinched in so tightly that they could hardly breathe. Many factors influence what styles of clothing are being worn by people. Economic 3 factors influence the fabrics, styling and quality that are popular or available at a given time. Technology plays its part through the development of new materials and new methods of construction. Global events, music video, movie and celebrities have had a great influence on fashion in the twentieth century. Film stars, entertainers and models ranging from Jean Harlow and Marilyn Monroe to Twiggy and Madonna have all inspired fashions. Furthermore, as internationally well-known celebrities, Jacqueline Kennedy and Princess Diana had a sense of style that influenced the fashion industry. Even fitness videos have popularised certain fashion style. An example of such phenomenon would be the sporty look during the 80s. The evolution of fashion styles and the role of famous designers help to understand the fashion changes and trends over the last century. (A) 1900s – 1910 La Belle Epoque (i) Background It was an era of great extravagance and ostentation. People spent beyond their incomes. More money was spent on clothes. In France and the United Kingdom, the atmosphere was very similar. Since women’s role was inferior to that of men. Women had to make themselves beautiful because femininity was a symbol of middle-class status; therefore, clothes were used to signify the particularities of social life in minute details. In the Edwardian era, styles for women were intensely feminine and elegant. The whole body was concealed from ears to feet.