Logging off It’s the Upper Guinea rainforest that makes a birding trip to Ghana so spectacular. One of the most biologically diverse ecosystems on the planet, it harbours almost 20 endemic bird species, including the white-necked picathartes. But as Adam Riley points out, this almost-mythical species’ days are likely to be numbered if logging and bushmeat hunting continue to

take their toll.  TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADAM RILEY

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y connection with Ghana Back at home I meticulously plan­ned began rather unexpectedly­ the perfect birding route based on our togo more than 10 years ago. I explorations, then made the bookings was with a group of bird- and confirmed the first commercial bird- watchers for whom I ing tour to Ghana. About a month before arrangedM and guided an annual tour to departure my clients asked me if we were Africa and we were discussing a destina- going to the same sites in Ghana as those Lake Volta ghana tion for the following year. We had offered by another, rather upmarket already been to South Africa, Zambia and birding-tour company. After some initial Bonkro • Uganda, but my clients’ request came confusion on my part and knowing with right out of left field: Ghana. certainty that said company did not offer I was astonished as I had never consid- tours to Ghana, it suddenly dawned on Accra • N ered Ghana as a potential birding destina- me… My clients had wanted to go to The Kakum NP • gulf of tion and didn’t even know any birders Gambia, but had got the country name guinea U who had been there. My clients insisted confused with Ghana. 100 km Upper Guinea forest that they wanted to go to Ghana as they The Gambia, an inexpensive package- had heard that the birding was great. The holiday destination for British sunseekers, customer, of course, is king, and since we had become quite popular with birders needed no excuse for exploration, adven- too. It is situated outside the rainforest ture and an opportunity for new birds, belt, offering mostly dry-savanna bird my colleague David Hoddinott and I soon species, waterbirds along the Gambia River found ourselves winging our way to this and Palearctic migrants. But the realisation West African nation. Very little tourist came too late for these somewhat geo- information was available at the time, so graphically challenged birders – the tickets we hired a car and off we went, following to Accra had been booked and the plans the few tips we had managed to glean, were in motion… We ended up enjoying a but mostly exploring on our own. highly successful trip, and since then our What a trip we had. Nineteen days later company has arranged and guided more than 20 birding tours to Ghana. We’ve we had racked up a list of 436 species that christian boix included some of Africa’s least-known logged in excess of 600 species, including birds, such as Congo serpent-eagle, yellow- several new records for the country. The Upper Guinea forest and research has shown them to be an Above Africa’s first rainforest canopy walkway is footed honeyguide, black-collared love- What makes Ghana so special? Most ancient basal offshoot from the passerine in Kakum National Park. Although this area was is one of the world’s 25 logged in the past, as a national park it is now one bird, yellow-bearded greenbul and importantly the Upper Guinea forest, one most biologically diverse tree. Their habit of nesting communally of the few forests in Ghana that is truly protected. Tessmann’s flycatcher. We realised that we of Africa’s two major rainforest regions under rock overhangs gave rise to their and endangered ecosys- OPPOSITE The blue-moustached bee-eater, had dis­covered Africa’s next hot birding (the other being the far more extensive alternative name of rockfowl, and in the a rainforest species that occurs in just a destination. Lower Guinea forest of the Congo Basin tems and is classified as past they have also been known as bald- few scattered sites in Ghana, was previously and surrounding areas). The Upper Guinea headed crows. considered a subspecies of the blue-headed an Endemic Bird Area bee-eater. forest is one of the world’s 25 most Historically, colonies of white-necked biologic­ally diverse and endangered eco- picathartes were recorded throughout the Previous spread Once widespread through systems and is classified as an Endemic population of 6.7 million, which com- rainforest zone of Ghana, but relentless Ghana’s forests, the white-necked picathartes was later believed to have become extinct in the Bird Area. It supports nearly 20 endemic putes to an incredible 261 per cent forest clearance resulted in all known country. Its subsequent rediscovery holds promise bird species, most of which are threatened increase in 50 years. Unsurprisingly, this populations being destroyed. By the time for community-benefiting ecotourism. with extinction. I revisited Ghana last sharp rise has had a devastating impact I first visited the country, the species was December after a break of more than eight on the environment. considered extinct there. Nevertheless, years and spent most of the 12-day trip in The birding on my latest trip was we spent considerable time looking for it. this forested region. At the end of it I superb, even better than I remembered it. Our search was unsuccessful, but I sus- came home with very mixed emotions, Our tours bear this out, as we see more pected that the few remaining pockets of and they triggered this article. species each time (on the most recent forest harboured a colony or two. Several expedition, we garnered 505). In addi- hunters I interviewed knew of the bird hana’s people are as affable as tion, several birds that had been consid- and claimed it still occurred. ever. Experienced world travellers ered extinct or not to occur in Ghana A few years ago the news broke that Goften leave the country stating have been located, such as the white- picathartes had been seen at a commun­ that its citizens are the friendliest people necked picathartes and Nimba flycatcher, ity forest reserve in Ghana. Researchers in the world, and I agree. The problem is both threatened Upper Guinea endemics. explored the surrounding areas and sev- that there are a whole lot more Ghanaians The two picathartes species are placed eral more colonies were discovered (some now. The population­ has swelled by in their own family. The white-necked (or of this investigative work, including aer­ more than 27 per cent during the past yellow-headed) is endemic to the Upper ial surveys, was supported by an initiative decade and stands at over 24.2 million­ Guinea forest, while the grey-necked (or our company operates, the Rockjumper people (2010 census). In 1960, just three red-headed) is restricted to the Lower Bird Conservation Fund). One of the col-

years after independence, Ghana had a Guinea forest. They are large passerines onies was subsequently opened to 

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ut all is not rosy. In my three visits, each of several hours’ dura- Btion, my ears were bombarded as I waited for and then watched these amazing birds. In the background the entire time there was the roar of chain- saws and blasts from bushmeat hunters’ shotguns – the two great evils that are destroying so much of Africa’s rainforests and their fauna. Figures I sourced indic­ ate that Ghana’s forests have reduced signific­antly in extent, from 8.2 million hectares at the beginning of the 20th century to a mere 1.4 million hectares in 2007. According to the World Bank, up to 80 per cent of Ghana’s forests had been destroyed by illegal logging by 2008. Official estimates suggest that log- ging is proceeding at about four million cubic metres per annum – four times the sustainable rate. Ghana has the dubious distinction of being the first country to have lost a major primate species since the Convention on Biological Diversity came into force: Miss Waldron’s red colobus was declared extinct in 2000 as a result of the destruction of its forest habitat. Between 1990 and 2010, Ghana lost 33.7 per cent of its forest cover (around 2.5 mil­lion hectares, nearly double what marius coetzee now remains). And, tragically, what tourists after researchers studying the Now that the colony has remains is still being destroyed at a dev­ picathartes deemed visits by birders to be been proclaimed off-limits astating rate. In every forest we birded non-disruptive. (except Kakum National Park, where log- We visited the colony at Bonkro, a for hunting, the picathartes ging ceased in 1989), felling was clearly in remote village in southern Ghana. Here population has grown evidence. All these forests are in ‘protect- local hunters had been harvesting the ed’ reserves, but at some of them logging birds for generations by simply picking we reached the picathartes’ colony of permits are reportedly being issued for the adults off their nests during the cup-shaped mud nests that were at­- harvesting the trees. It is possible that breeding season. Now that the colony tached to the walls of a rock overhang. these permits are for selective harvesting, has been proclaimed off-limits for hunt- We sat quietly and waited. but it is also obvious that the reserves are ing, the picathartes population has Picathartes spend their days foraging in fact being clear-felled. grown, the village is benefiting markedly for insects, snails and other prey deep in In addition, the last remaining larger from entry and guide fees, and a school the forests, but little more is known of mammals and birds are being shot out by While we were deep in Atewa Range Above The West African race of Vieillot’s black weaver is a stunning bird that is common is being built with the proceeds from this behaviour as they are incredibly shy hunters to supply the insatiable demand Forest Reserve, a hunter passed us and I at forest edges. conservation funds. birds and vanish at the first hint of for bushmeat, a market that in Ghana asked him to show us his night’s catch. We arrived at Bonkro in the afternoon disturbance.­ However, around their col­ alone is estimated to generate revenues of He opened his rucksack and inside was a Opposite, above Despite taking place in shattered locations, where chainsaws whine and once we had met our local guide onies (to which they usually return each up to US$350-million a year. Although in tightly bound bundle that he unfastened constantly in the background, forest birding in and managed to escape the throngs of evening) they appear to lose their fear many instances this hunting is illegal, it is to reveal a tree pangolin, a creature I had Ghana is phenomenal, with an incredible diversity friendly children, we walked through and will perch close to observers to preen, never seen alive in all my time birding and number of rare and endangered species. The brazenly undertaken by locals, and their rare rufous fishing-owl was one of the many species fields of cocoa, corn and other crops. sometimes ignoring the onlookers and at victims (including endangered species) are these forests. It was completely un-­ seen by this group in Nsuta Forest, a reserve that is Huge tree stumps indic­ated that these other times displaying great curiosity. I commonly sold along the country’s main harmed as the hunter had climbed a tree in the process of being clear-felled and settled by subsistence farmers. fields had recently replaced primary rain- had already seen the grey-necked pica- roads. I have seen tree pangolins, greater to catch it, so we agreed to purchase the forest. Finally we slipped into the dark thartes in Cameroon on several occasions cane rats, several monkey and duiker pangolin. After taking a few images and Opposite, below An illegal hunter in Atewa forest and followed a meandering trail and had been on my way to a white- species, royal antelopes, Pel’s anomalures ensuring that the hunter had gone, we Range Forest Reserve with his catch, a tree pangolin destined for the bushmeat market. for three kilometres, passing massive necked colony in Côte d’Ivoire in 2002 (a giant flying squirrel), huge casqued released it and watched with mixed emo- trees with expansive buttress roots, until when there had been a coup and we had hornbills, great blue turacos and numer- tions as it climbed high into a massive we reached a very steep rise. After a to reluctantly turn back. So to finally see ous other birds and mammals for sale tree. What are the chances of survival for

sweaty climb of a hundred metres or so, this bird was a dream come true for me. along the roadside. these shy forest denizens? 

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lthough the larger (that is, edible) I spoke at length with some of the birds have all but vanished from villa­gers at Bonkro and learned that their Amost of Ghana’s forests, in gener- community forest is in a reserve and they al the birding was superb. We encoun- are not benefiting from the logging. It is tered flock after flock at all levels of the often outsiders, who obtain permits by canopy, and often a mind-boggling reportedly dubious means, who are rob- diversity of species was present, even in bing not only these communities of a seriously degraded forests that were large part of their livelihoods, but also being clear-felled. Endangered species the world of its biological inheritance. such as rufous fishing-owl, western wat- That being said, a section of the forest tled cuckooshrike, red-fronted antpecker, around the picathartes colony has been green-tailed bristlebill and rufous-winged set aside as a non-hunting and non- illadopsis were among the birds we saw, logging area, and time will tell whether leading me to conclude that they are dis- this ‘island’ will be large enough to sus- placed survivors from forest that has tain these special birds. Corruption of been felled and are thronged in unnatur­ officials is a major issue and without the ally high densities in the few pockets of will and support of the authorities it is forest that remain. However, they cannot unlikely that any conservation effort will and will not breed there and once these succeed. Nevertheless, various NGOs and individuals’ natural lifespans are over, other conservation bodies have had suc- these bird populations will be gone. cesses in Ghana and have created pro- tected reserves, such as the Wechiau Although the larger (that Community Hippo Sanctuary. My personal opinion (bearing in mind is, edible) birds have all that my professional background is not but vanished from most of in conservation) is that if community Ghana’s forests, in general members are given an alternative option the birding was superb to forest destruction and hunting, they will embrace it. I had a long conversation with the pangolin hunter at Atewa and Is there a solution? If there is, it will be while it was clear that he realised he and complex. With an economic growth rate his fellow hunters are plundering the for- of more than 20 per cent, Ghana was est’s resources at an unsustainable rate, listed as ‘the world’s fastest-growing he has a family to sustain and no altern­ economy in 2011’. This, combined with ative prospects exist for him. a burgeoning and increasingly affluent One of the few ways to bring oppor­ population, is placing unsustainable tun­ities and income to these commu­ demands on the land. The supply of nities is by way of ecotourism, through legal timber cannot come close to meet- employment as guides, lodge and sup- ing the demand generated by the accel- port staff, reserve entry fees, and land erating economy. Statistics­ reveal that rentals for lodges. And when communit­ more than three million rural Ghanaians ies see foreign visitors who have travelled depend on forests for their survival, and across the world to enjoy their local wild- 69 per cent of all urban households util­ life and forests, they begin to appreciate ise charcoal for cooking and heating. that their natural heritage is special and A 2006 report titled ‘Forest Governance should be protected. Empowering the in Ghana: an NGO perspective’, drafted by communities, both financially and edu- Forest Watch Ghana, states: ‘Ghana’s for- cationally, will enable them to resist any estry sector is in deep crisis. The timber attempts by higher authorities to destroy schemes and programmes for poverty Above Another of Ghana’s forest gems, the seldom-encountered Fraser’s eagle-owl. industry-led assault on this resource is their resources. They will also have the alleviation, education (especially for building towards ecological catastrophe. resolve and means to protect their natu- women) and family planning. The intro- Opposite, above This is one of the first The state’s failure to capture even a mini- ral heritage. duction of modern, intensive agricultural published photographs of the little-known red-fronted antpecker. mal portion of resource rent for the public But ecotourism is unlikely to support methods, the creation of properly protect- and for the communities that own and very remote, isolated communities and it ed reserves, sustainable economic devel- Opposite, below The blue cuckooshrike is a depend on these forests for their liveli- does have its risks and limitations, so I am opment that doesn’t rely primarily on highly sought-after rainforest canopy species. hood has created a social catastrophe. The not proposing that it is the sole solution. natural resource extraction, and tackling descent­ of affected communities into pov- If there is to be any hope of saving corruption at a local official level are also erty, social decay, conflict and violence Ghana’s remaining rainforests, then inter- among the factors that need to be threatens a political and security cata­ nationally funded conservation NGOs will enmeshed in a nationally supported con- strophe as well.’ need to get involved in carbon-credit servation strategy.

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