This Is a Reproduction of a Library Book That Was Digitized by Google As
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
This is a reproduction of a library book that was digitized by Google as part of an ongoing effort to preserve the information in books and make it universally accessible. https://books.google.com RECOLLECTIONS ABROAD, DURING THE YEAR 1790. SICILY AND MALTA. BY SIR RICHARD COLT HOARE, BART. N The impression of this Volume is limited to Fifty Copies. P?a3i Richard CruttweU. $ks*Q\ PREFACE. SICELIDES MUS.E, PAULLO MAJORA CANAMUS. TTITHERTO, with the exception of a short excursion into the ancient district of Etruria, my researches have been confined to the Roman territory, and to a description of its local scenery and antiquities. I now enter upon a new field of inquiry, in teresting from its early cultivation and rich pro duce: a country, captivating to the eye, by its natural beauties, and to the mind, by the historical events which it summons to the recollection; a country, which flourished in a high state of opu lence and prosperity, before Rome could boast [ iv ] even of its foundation,* and which gave birth and protection to a long train of the most illustrious warriors, legislators, and philosophers. A study of the Etruscan, Greek, and Roman nations comprehends all that is required from a general investigation of Italy ; and if our re searches were made according to the order of chronology, our first attention would be directed towards Etruria, whose language is now unknown to us; but we may stiH retrace with astonishment the rude architecture of that nation in the Cyclo pean walls, which still exist in many parts of its ancient territory ; and by a residence at Volterra, we may become acquainted with the funereal rites of the Etruscan nation. If we extend our re searches still further, we shall find this once popu lous and well-inhabited territory become deserted and infectious from pestilential air. And whilst we tread over this ground, the mind will recur to those vicissitudes of fortune which it has expe- • The island of Sicily is said to have been peopled A. 12g2 before Christ, by the Etruscans, Sicani, &c. Rome was founded A. 753 before Chbist; so that the former flourished 539 years before the latter. C v ] rienced ; and recollect, that from the downfall of this celebrated nation, Imperial Rome acknowledges its origin. From Etruria our thoughts will naturally be directed towards Greece, and the connexion which its republics, particularly Athens, had with Sicily; and on a view of this fertile island, the classical tourist will find a rich field open to his survey. I may say of it what Cicero said of Athens, Qua- cumque ingredimur, in aliquant historiam ves tigium ponimus ; for each day's journey will supply matter for historical inquiry, recall to our memory the studies of our younger days, and identify the very places where many of the most interesting events have transpired. Satiated, though not tired, with those antiquities which the territory of Rome has afforded, I now enter with anxiety and zeal on a new district; new in its original language, and new in the style of architecture which its ancient monuments will present. Nova res agitur. Tyrants, heroes, phi losophers, and legislators already flit before my sight. The vision is pleasing, and I hope will ter minate with instruction. < a i— i H <! M u INTRODUCTION. "WMJTHEN a new play is advertised for representa- ~ » tion by some celebrated author, we are unwilling to anticipate the pleasure and surprise which we expect to experience from the development of the plot, by a previous reading. But it is not so with the traveller, who, before he enters upon an unknown district, is naturally anxious to become acquainted, in some degree, with its history, the nature of its soil, its antiquities, and the vicissitudes of fortune, which, in the progress of time, it has experienced ; that, by a personal exa mination, he may be enabled to judge with a better discrimination, and by selecting the most worthy ob jects for consideration, not throw away his time upon trifles. Such were my own feelings on entering Sicily ; and I regretted that I had not previously made my self better acquainted with the history of its interior : but I cannot forget the sensations of gratification [ viii ] which I experienced from referring, on each classical spot, to the minute descriptions and historical anec dotes, recorded by the faithful pens of my two travelling companions, Ciajverius and Fazeixus, Under such able guidance it was my own fault, if information failed, for I had it at hand. Some short account of the history of Sicily seems necessary to be added to the journal of my tour ; which I shall briefly extract from those authors, who, by their writings and descriptions, have illustrated the history of this interesting island. TRINACRIA, or SICILY. FROM the concurrent testimonies of Virgil, Ovid, Valerius Flaccus, Claudian, Statius, and Silius Italicus, amongst the Roman poets, and of Seneca, and other prose writers, we are induced to believe that Sicily, now an island, was formerly united with the conti nent of Magna Graecia, now Calabria. Of this mighty separation Virgil gives the following account : Heec loca, vi quondam et vastd convulsa ruind ( Tantum eevi longinqua valet mutare vetustas) Dissiluisse ferunt ; quum protinvs utraque tellus Unaforet; venit medio vi pontus, et undis [ « ] Hesperium Siculo latus abscidit ; arvaque et urbes Littore diductas angusto interluit eestu. JEneid, lib. 3. That realm of old, a ruin huge ! was rent, In length of ages, from the continent ; With force convulsive burst the isle away, Through the dread op'ning broke the thund'ring sea. At once the thund'ring sea Sicilia tore, And sunder'd from the fair Hesperian shore ; And still the neighbouring coasts and towns divides With scanty channels and contracted tides. Pitt. The Italian shore, And fair Sicilia' s coast, were one, before An earthquake caused the flaw ; the roaring tides The passage broke, that land from land divides, And, where the lands retired, the rushing ocean rides. Dry den. The original name of this island was Trinacria, and was derived from its geographical form, which was triangular, and presented three head-lands or promon tories. AVO TUV Tf>lUV CCK^UV. Terra tribus scopulis vastum procurrit in eequor Trinacris a positu nomen adepta loci. This form has been designated in some of the Sy- racusan medals by three legs extended different ways ; and Cluverius has adopted one, with the addition of a winged head in the centre, and ears of corn between the legs, alluding to the fertility of the island. [ * ] The three promontories, or head-lands by which this island was formerly distinguished, are, I. Lily- BjEUM, situated towards the west, and pointing towards Africa. II. Pachynus, towards the south, in. Pe- lorus, towards the east, and the coast of Calabria. But in later times it became better known by its inland division into three provinces, i. The Val di Mazara; in which are situated the modern capital Palermo, Trapani, and Girgenti. n. The Val di Noto ; containing the cities of Catania, Syracuse, and Au gusta, in. The Val di Demone; which comprehends the cities of Messina, Milazzo, Cefalu, and Taormina. This island is divided, nearly in its centre, from north to south, by two rivers, the Himera Septentrio- nalis, and Himera Meridionalis. The former unites its streams with the ocean on the northern coast, between the towns of Termine and Cefalu; the latter joins the sea at Alicata. Various other rivers, descending from the mountains, contribute their streams; amongst which are, the Hypsa, between Marsala and Sciacca; theHalycus, at Heraclea; the Hypparis, at Camarina; the Elorus, near Noto; the Anapus, at Syracuse; the Symaethus, near Catania, &c. On the northern coast we find the Helicon, nearTindaro; the Alaesus, the Monalus, the Himera Septentrionalis, and the Orethus, at Palermo. The most distinguished range of mountains were the Neptunii, the Herjei, and the Nebrodes, running nearly in a direction from east to west. The first was situated near the promontory of Pelorus. Next came the Herjei, which were also called [ xi J Junonti, of which Diodorus Siculus has given the following; very flattering description. " There are " mountains in Sicily, called Her^ii, so pleasant for " situation, and of so sweet an air, that no place can " be better pitched upon than they for pleasure and " diversion in the summer time; for there are many " springs of admirable sweet water, and decked with " trees of all sorts. There are whole woods of tall " and stately oaks, which bear acorns of a vast bigness, " twice as many, and twice as big, as in any other " part of the world. There, likewise, grows abun- " dance of roots and herbs, natural vines, and un- " speakable number of apples, so that a Carthaginian " army, once ready to starve for want of provisions, " was there relieved and preserved ; and though so " many thousands were there fed, yet plenty remained " in the mountains still. In this region there is a " pleasant valley, graced with rows of trees, affording " a most ravishing prospect to the eye ; and likewise " a grove dedicated to the nymphs." — Booth's Dio- dorus, page 173. Further towards the west are the Nebrod.es, now called Le Madonie ; and formerly by Ptolemy, Cratas Mons.* The Sicilian geographer describes them as the broadest and highest range of mountains in all Sicily, Mount yEtna excepted. He describes them as being covered with snow during the greater part of * The name of Nebrodes has been derived by some of the classic Writers, am rut nffw, ab hinnulis, with which the mountain was formerly well stocked.