JOSTEDALSBREEN Moulded by ice and water 2° 3° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

Beneath the glacier (GDB)

Landscape moulded by ice and water

The Jostedalsbreen National Park has an ­enormous variety of habitats, ranging from lush, ­broad-leaved deciduous woodland in the lowlands to glaciers and towering peaks with an Arctic ­climate. The Jostedalsbreen Ice Cap extends Early purple orchids above the glacier (TD) unbroken for more than 60 kilometres. Covering an area of 487 km2, it comprises about 2/5 of the national park. The natural assets linked with ­glaciers, glacial rivers, moraines and vegetation are important protection qualities. The cultural landscape in valleys where transhumance summer dairy farms are located is also highly valuable.

U-shaped valleys, moraines, glacially smoothed mountainsides, fluvioglacial plains and screes; over time immemorial, ice and water have ­moulded a constantly changing landscape. Bubbling becks, streams, rivers and waterfalls on mountainsides and in valleys characterise the area. An abundance of water provides good ­conditions for plant life and gives the valleys in the area unusually lush vegetation.

Looking down on the Tunsbergdal glacier (AR) 4° 5° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

Hiking at Sunndalssætra (AR) Skiing on Snøsnipa (AR)

ENJOY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY

Easy walks or demanding treks on glaciers to the glacier, fairly easy walks with plenty to enjoy. The ascent of Lodalskåpa (2083 m a.s.l.), also called The Jostedalsbreen district has been an attractive hiking Vestlandsdronninga (the Queen of West Norway), is a area for very many years, especially for glacier trekking long day’s trek and requires glacier-trekking equipment and climbing peaks. Recently, particularly taxing trips and a high level of fitness. like skiing the length of the ice cap in spring, preferably making a detour to Lodalskåpa, the highest peak, have become popular. Glacier trekking, however, is hazardous without proper knowledge and appropriate equipment. Guided treks are offered.

The ancient tracks linking the valleys around the ice cap, such as through the passes of Oldeskaret and Supphelleskaret, offer thrilling walks. The Jostedal Ice Cap, particularly its outlet glaciers stretching down to Briksdalen and Fjærland, as well as the Nigard glacier, has been a cherished goal for ordinary tourists for many years. Paths can be followed along the valleys of Krundalen, Kjenndalen and Austerdalen right up

Bøya glacier (GDB) 6° 7° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

Recent research indicates that Jostedalsbreen had melted completely about 8000 years and began to form again some 5000 years ago to reach a new maximum in the Little Ice Age around 1750, when farms were over- whelmed by advancing glacier arms. The Brenndal glacier calved as far down as Tungøyane farm in the Oldedalen valley, and Nigard farm was overrun by the Nigard ­glacier.

Some of the highest waterfalls in the world cascade from the Jostedal Ice Cap and its tributary glaciers. Strupen in Myklebustdalen (Gloppen) and Utigard (or Ramnefjell) in Lodalen, with their total drops of more than 800 m, are Waterfall on Tverrelvi in Sunndalen (AR) nos. 10 and 11 on the list of the highest waterfalls in the world. Other well-known waterfalls in the national park are Våle and Kjøta, both in Oldedalen. LANDSCAPE

The largest glacier in mainland Europe Jostedalsbreen is a plateau glacier with many branches extending from about 300 to 2000 m a.s.l. When several smaller glaciers are included, about half of the national park is covered by glaciers. Much of the national value of the area for nature conservation and outdoor ­recreation stems from it being one of the largest, continuous areas of undisturbed countryside remaining in southern Norway.

Glaciers form as a result of a surplus of snow falling in winter relative to its thawing in summer. It may be cold, cloudy and windy up on the glacier at the same time as it is warm, sunny and calm in the valleys. Frost and ­snowfall may occur on the glacier throughout the year.

Austerdal glacier (AR) Nordfjordeid Grotli LEGEND Hellesylt Geiranger Tystigbreen County border Faleide Oppstryn Stryn National Park NORDFJORD Loen Protected Landscape Skålatårnet Sunndalssetra Nature Reserve 1775 Parkering Innvik Havald-trede Accommodation Olden Vetledalssetra Sognskards- Cafè/restaurant Skardstein- Lovatnet breen National Park Information Center ellet Erdalsbreen Slæom Camping Utvik Bødalssetra Kupvatnet Tourist Cabin, self service Tourist Cabin, unstaffed Stegholtbreen Karistova Lodalskåpa Lodalsbreen Styggevatnet Sandane Brenibba

Breimsvatnet Breim Sprongdalshytta Byrkjelo Myklebust- Kjenndalskruna breen JOSTEDALSBREEN Fåbergstølsbreen Fåbergstølen Flatsteinbu Kjenndalsbreen Nigards- Snønipa Brenndalsbreen Høgste breen 1827 1957 Fåberg Briksdalsbreen Breakulen Nigardsbreen NR Briksdal Kvitekoll 1930 Bergsetbreen 1844 Mjølver Ramnane Breheimen NP Haugen Austerdalsbreen Gjerde Befring Spørtegg- Tunsbergdalsbreen breen Befringstølen Bings Skei gryte Førde Vongsen Bjørga Jølstravatnet NATIONAL PARK 1757 Tungestølen Kjøsnesfjorden1551 Vigdalen Supphelle Dvergsdalsstølen Bøyabreen 1731 LVO nipa Vigdalstøl Lunde Tunsbergdals- Grova- Høgebru vatnet breen1635 Fivla Brevasshytta Flatbrehytta Veitastrond Leirdal

Svardals- Skjolden breen Grøneng Navarsete Jostefonn Luster 1615 Fjærland Steindals- 1613 Gaupne breen

Berge Ånestølen Veitastrondvatnet Marifjøra Nes Gaularfjellet Førde 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 Fjærlandsfjorden

Balestrand Sogndal Sogndal LUSTRAFJORDEN Digital cartography: Gåsvatn kart-tjenester, www.kart-tjenester.no Digital map data: Statens kartverk N250. Order no. MAD12002-R125240 www.kart-tjenester.no Digital cartography: Gåsvatn kart-tjenester, M = 1:340.000 10° 11° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

Ptarmigan on the glacier (TD)

Trailing azalea (ABH) Foxglove(AR) Snow bunting (AL) Red deer in Bøyadalen (GDB)

PLANT LIFE ANIMAL LIFE

From lush, transhumance valleys to glaciers and The great variation in the plant life is reflected in the barren peaks ­animal life. The glaciers have little animal life, just red The enormous range of habitats over short distances is deer and large predators like lynxes, brown bears and caused by great variations in local climate, sharp differ- wolverines occasionally roam over the ice cap. The ences in altitude and the influence of the glaciers. Lush, handsome snow bunting may be seen on the peaks broad-leaved deciduous woodland with wych elm and ­surrounding the ice cap. Wild reindeer live furthest north small-leaved lime, and warmth-demanding plants like in the park. You may also be lucky enough to see large broad-leaved helleborine and spring pea are found in the birds of prey like golden eagles and rough-legged buz- lowlands, while 1500 m above is alpine vegetation with, zards in the nearby mountains and valleys. for example, glacier buttercups and trailing azaleas. Many red deer live in the valleys surrounding In front of the glacier snouts in the lowlands, pioneer Jostedalsbreen, and birdlife is rich in the lush, deciduous plants like purple saxifrage and starwort mouse-ear put woodland and on farmland. You may also see and hear colour into the grey landscape. The natural immigration the rare white-backed woodpecker. There is a potential of these plants when the glaciers retreat up the valleys for recording undiscovered species, too. In the 1970s, was an important reason for protecting the area as a two new species of non-biting midges (chironomids), national park. not known anywhere else in the world, were found in a lake (Vivavatnet) in Sprongdalen (Jostedalen), just Swamp woodlands on the gently sloping ­fluvioglacial outside the park. plains are adapted to the changeable discharge and ­shifting course of the rivers, and form a ­particularly out- Few lakes in the national park offer good fishing, and the standing quality in the national park. Fåbergstølsgrandane high content of mud in the rivers means that conditions is the largest active fluvioglacial plain in Norway. for fish are on the whole not good in the park. 12° 13° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

HISTORY

Jostedalsbreen – an important artery in the old days The Jostedal Ice Cap used to be an important route for travellers and livestock drovers journeying from the western valleys and fjord districts to inner Sognefjord and southeast Norway. Cattle and horses were led over the glacier to be sold at markets in southeast Norway, a long, hazardous journey. Nowadays, it would be diffi­ cult to use the ice cap and glaciers for such a purpose because they have shrunk and thus become steeper and more crevassed.

The cultural landscape, with its farms, transhumance Skåla Tower (AR) farms, birch groves and so on, shows that man has been eking a living by the glaciers for many centuries. Farming is carried on in the settlements around the national park, Research and a few transhumance summer dairy farms are still being worked in the traditional manner. Glaciers can provide information on past changes in ­climate, and their movements reveal trends in the Modern tourism came to the Jostedalsbreen area in the ­present-day climate. Glaciological research on the latter half of the 19th century when the fjord landscape Jostedal Ice Cap goes back as far as the mid-19th and glaciers in Norway were “discovered” by people in ­century, and both foreign and Norwegian teams have put other European countries. The tourists particularly came in a great deal of effort here. Since the glaciers are able to Fjærland and Olden with cruise ships. From the quays to reveal a great deal about the history of the climate, there, they were mostly taken by horse and trap to two Jostedalsbreen is a particularly valuable climate archive. glaciers, Bøya and Briksdal. Today, the outlet glaciers from the ice cap are the most visited tourist destinations­ Norwegian universities and the Norwegian Polar in Norway, and more than 250 000 people visit the Institute have undertaken a number of programmes that Briksdal glacier each year. Other glaciers that are popular particularly aim to trace the retreat and advance of the among tourists include Nigard, Bøya and Kjenndal. outlet glaciers. In the early-1960s, the Norwegian Water Resources and Energy Directorate began detailed, long- term investigations of mass balance and various glacial processes at several sites on the glacier.

The Norwegian Glacier Museum and a number of other Norwegian and foreign research institutions are also undertaking more minor programmes at several sites on and around the ice cap.

Bødalseter (AR) 14° 15° Jostedalsbreen National Park Jostedalsbreen National Park

Jostedalsbreen National Park in brief

Where The boroughs of Luster, Sogndal, Balestrand, Førde, Jølster, Camping on the ice cap (AR) Gloppen and Stryn in the county of Sogn & Fjordane Foremost characteristics Extremely varied and spectacular scenery, ranging from lush, U-shaped valleys to glacial alpine landscape; Jostedalsbreen is the largest ice cap on the European mainland, surrounded by peaks In a national park, you are one reaching above 2000 m. of Nature’s guests Outdoor recreation Marked paths follow the valleys leading to the ice cap and cross some passes between the valleys. Glacier trekking and spring skiing • You may go wherever you like, on foot or on trips. Walking or skiing on or near the glaciers may be dangerous. Glaciers are always on the move and there is a constant risk of skis, but anything with an engine is basically ­falling ice and flash floods at their snouts. Never go near steep prohibited. glaciers or beneath a glacier. Do not venture onto a glacier ­without a guide who knows the local conditions. You can take part in • You can stop wherever you like and pitch a tent. ­organised glacier treks, or hire a guide from Jostedalen, Fjærland or Always tidy up afterwards and take your rubbish Stryn, for example. How to reach Jostedalsbreen National Park with you. Rv 604 Jostedalen, E 5 Fjærland, E 39 Jølster, Rv 60 to Oldedalen • You can light a fire, but remember the general and Lodalen, E 15 to Erdalen. Branch roads continue some way along many of the valleys leading towards the park, such as ban on fires in woodland from 15 April to Jostedalen, Veitastrond, Fjærland, Stardalen, Oldedalen, Lodalen 15 September. Show consideration when and Erdalen. ­collecting firewood. Information on accommodation and other services Every borough has a local tourist information office. Two large, • You can pick berries, mushrooms and common informative websites are: www.nordfjord.no and www.sognefjord.no plants for your own use. Show consideration for Maps Jostedalsbreen (1:100 000), ten maps in the 1:50 000 series, cultural heritage sites, vegetation and animal Breheimen (1:100 000). life. Take extra care in the breeding season. The glacier trek map, available free at information offices, shows routes for which guiding is available and where you can find • Hunting and fishing are permitted. Remember ­accommodation, and so on. to buy hunting and fishing licences. Never use Designated in 1991, extended in 1998 live fish as bait, or transfer live fish from one Area 1315 km2 river or lake to another. Adjacent protected areas Breheimen National Park and Nigardsbreen Nature Reserve • You can take your dog with you, but remember National Park Centres to keep it on a lead from 1 April to 20 August. Breheim Centre, NO-6871 Jostedal, phone +47 57 68 32 50 Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre, NO-6799 Oppstryn, phone +47 57 87 72 00 Norwegian Glacier Museum, NO-6848 Fjærland, phone +47 57 69 32 88 M217/2014 Layout: Guri Jermstad AS. Photo: Anne Rudsengen (AR), Tom Dybwad (TD), Pål Gran Kielland (PGK), Management and supervision Arnt Flatmo (AF), Gaute Dvergsdal Bøyum (GDB), Astrid Bakke Havik (ABH) og Arild Lindgaard (AL) Jostedalsbreen National Park Board, Jostedalsbreen@fylkesmannen. Front cover: Towers of ice on Supphellebreen (GDB), The diversity of Nature (AF). no, phone +47 57 64 30 00, www.nasjonalparkstyre.no Back cover: Walking beneath the glacier (PGK) Norwegian Nature Inspectorate, Sogndal, PO Box 88, NO-6851 Sogndal, phone +47 57 67 56 30 More information www.norgesnasjonalparker.no Print: GRØSET™ NORWAY’S NATIONAL PARKS

Norwegian National Parks are our common natural heritage

We set up national parks to safeguard large areas of countryside – from the seashore to the mountaintops. For Nature’s own sake, ourselves and future generations. National parks boast magnificent scenery with varied animal and plant life, waterfalls, glaciers, lofty mountains, endless plateaus, deep forests and lush wood- lands, and beautiful fjords and coasts. You will also find cultural heritage remains showing how the areas were used in the past. The national parks offer a multitude of opportunities for ­thrilling encounters with natural history. Make use of our magnificent nature – on its own terms. Welcome to Norwegian national parks.

www.environmentagency.no