The Paisano Volume 38 Number 1 2018 J

National Park Service Big Bend National Park U.S. Department of the Interior

Texas

Big Bend National Park Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River Visitor Guide The Paisano Volume 38 Number 1 2018 J. JURADO

Sunrise following an ice storm. Free Park Movie More Inside... Welcome to Big Bend The park's 24-minute film "Life on the Edge" is played upon request at the Panther Junction Birds and Bird Watching �� 2 Welcome to Big Bend National Park and the remaining wild corners of the United States. Visitor Center. Border Information �� 3 Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River! Over From the forests of the Chisos down to the Camping and River Use ...... 6 800,000 acres await your exploration and floor of the desert, over 1,500 types of plants Day Hikes �� 5 enjoyment. thrive in the park and support ecosystems Feature Articles �� 7 Junior Ranger full of pollinators, herbivores, and other Information and Services �� 8 From an elevation of less than 1,800 feet wildlife. Park Partners �� 8 Program along the Rio Grande to nearly 8,000 feet in Safety �� 3 Free Big Bend Junior Ranger the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend includes Take a drive along one of Big Bend's roads, activity books are available at massive canyons, vast desert expanses, or hike a scenic trail, and discover just any visitor center. Do you have forested mountains, and an ever-changing how much diversity and life there is in this what it takes to become a Junior Ranger? river. Here you can explore one of the last amazing desert!

What can I see if I only have... One Day: Three Days: A Week: Big Bend is too big to see in a single day, With three days to spend in the park, With a week or more to spend in Big but a great one-day trip to the park might you can explore the major roads more Bend, endless possibilities are open to include a trip down the Ross Maxwell thoroughly and still have time for hiking. you. You’ll have plenty of time to explore Scenic Drive and a visit to the Chisos You will also have plenty of time to stop the roads mentioned in the previous Mountains. at visitor centers and the Fossil Discovery sections, and will also have time to hike Exhibit to learn more about the park. or to drive some of the “unimproved” The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive will give dirt roads. For these, you’ll need a high you fantastic views of the Chihuahuan In the Chisos Basin area, consider hiking clearance or four-wheel drive vehicle; Desert landscape and will lead you to the the Window Trail (6 miles round trip) don’t forget to check at the visitor centers Rio Grande. There are scenic overlooks or the Lost Mine Trail (5 miles round for current road conditions. The River and exhibits along the way, and the short trip). Consult page 5 of this paper for trail Road, Glenn Springs Road, Old Ore walks to Sam Nail Ranch and Homer descriptions of these and other popular Road, and Old Maverick Road are some Wilson Ranch and a visit to the Castolon trails in the park that you might fit into of the more popular backcountry routes.

™ Historic District will give you a glimpse your trip. Try to experience Big Bend's A visit to Ernst Tinaja near the south into Big Bend’s past. wilderness as much as possible. end of the Old Ore Road is a Big Bend highlight. A highlight of the trip is the short walk In addition to the Basin and Ross Maxwell into Santa Elena Canyon—one of Big Scenic Drive (see suggestions for “one If you don’t have high clearance or four- Bend’s most scenic spots. Drive 8 miles day”), you can drive to Rio Grande wheel drive, improved dirt roads such west from Castolon to the end of the Village, perhaps stopping at Dugout as Dagger Flat and Grapevine Hills will road. You may return to the main road Wells along the way to walk the short get you “off the beaten path.” Hike the by returning on the Ross Maxwell Drive Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail. Chimneys Trail, Mule Ears Trail, or or on the Old Maverick Road, a 13-mile Grapevine Hills Trail for a closer look at gravel road linking the Ross Maxwell The Rio Grande Village Visitor Center the desert environment.

To: To: Drive to the Maverick Entrance. Be sure offers exhibits and a small theater. to check on road conditions first. Walk the Rio Grande Village Nature If you’d like to explore the Chisos Trail, which begins near site #18 in the Mountains, trails to Boot Canyon, Emory In the Chisos Mountains, walk the 0.3- campground. The bluff overlooking the Peak and the South Rim offer good views mile Window View Trail to get a feel for Rio Grande at the end of the nature trail is of the park and take you into another the mountain scenery. If time allows you a particularly beautiful spot at sunset. world which seems far removed from the might consider hiking the Window Trail desert. There are plenty of opportunities or Lost Mine Trail for a closer look at Big The Boquillas Canyon road will take for overnight backpacking along these Big Bend National Park PO Box 129 Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 Bend's mountain landscapes. The Fossil you to Boquillas Canyon. At the end of trails. A backcountry use permit is Discovery Exhbit located 8 miles north of the road is the Boquillas Canyon Trail, required and can be obtained at any park Panther Junction is another park highlight which takes you to the entrance of this visitor center during normal business EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA that could easily fit into a one-day visit. spectacular canyon. hours. See page 6 for more information. National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

Big Bend National Park ActivitiesActivities andand ScenicScenic DrivesDrives Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River

The National Park Service was established on August 25, 1916, "... to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife... and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave C. DUNN them unimpaired for the enjoyment of The Fossil Discovery Exhibit located 8 miles north of Panther Junction. future generations.”

Authorized by Congress in 1935 and established in June 1944, Big Bend Getting Outdoors National Park preserves the most representative example of the Chihuahuan With diverse habitats to explore, hundreds of miles of trails to hike and the Rio Grande Wild Desert ecosystem in the United States. & Scenic River to float, outdoor recreation is truly the best way to experience Big Bend. Park Mailing Address River Trips Border Information Big Bend National Park PO Box 129 With three unique river canyons and miles of The deepest channel of the Rio Grande is the Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 remote desert scenery to explore floating the international border between the United States and Mexico. Passports are not currently required for Phone Rio Grande in Big Bend can be an unforgetable river trips, but stepping onto the Mexican bank of 432-477-2251 experience. Canoes, kayaks, and rafts are allowed on the river. You may bring your own equipment, the river, then returning to the U.S., constitutes an illegal border crossing. U.S. Border Patrol allows for Park Websites or you can hire a guide service. Local outfitters www.nps.gov/bibe/ provide guide service, equipment rental, and up-to- exceptions to be made under emergency situations www.nps.gov/rigr/ date river information and conditions. only, i.e., scouting, portaging, or lining. J. JURADO

On matters relating to the Paisano: National Park Service Editor, The Big Bend Paisano Hiking and Backpacking Camping Overnight PO Box 129 Big Bend has over 200 miles of trails in the Chisos Permits are required for overnight camping in Big Bend National Park, TX Mountains and desert terrain, with permits the backountry. There are 41 campsites along the 79834 available for backpacking overnight within these Chisos Mountains trails, ranging from one to eight [email protected] beautiful habitats. Many trails are easy to moderate miles from the trailhead. These sites are designated

in difficulty but visitors should always be prepared to help reduce impact and damage to this delicate The National Park Service cares for the environment. Campsites have bear-proof boxes special places saved by the American for the dangers of high temperatures and high for storing food and other items. Backcountry people so that all may experience our exposure to the elements. Carry lots of water (at opportunities outside of the Chisos Mountains heritage. least 1 gallon per day is recommended) and wear a hat, sunscreen, and proper clothing. may be available with proper equipment and well- C. BALLOU EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ researched plans.

Scenic Drives and Backcountry Always inspect your vehicle and check current road conditions at a visitor center before traveling any of Roads the park’s primitive roads. If you have a high-clearance or four wheel drive See Our Newest Exhibit! vehicle, Big Bend’s backcountry roads call for Big Bend's backcountry roads also offer further exploration. There are over 200 miles of opportunities for primitive camping in roadsite dirt roads in the park. Improved dirt roads like the campsites. Primitive sites offer excellent Dagger Flat and Grapevine Hills roads are usually in views,solitude, and a flat gravel space to camp good condition and accessible to normal passenger next to your vehicle. Permits are required. See the vehicles, except following rainstorms. Unimproved backcountry camping section located on Page 6 for dirt roads, such as the Old Maverick Road, Old information on obtaining a backcountry permit. C. BALLOU Ore Road, or the River Road, generally require high-clearance vehicles and/or four wheel drive.

Birding in Big Bend Birding Hot Spots The park is designated as a Globally Important Bird Area. C. DUNN Panther Junction to Rio Grande Village Big Bend National Park is famous for its offers some of the best year-round birding in • Dugout Wells—shady cottonwood trees Big Bend National Park is known as a birding, with more documented species of the park. Consider walking the Rio Grande and a windmill at this desert oasis. geologist's paradise, and visitors now have birds visiting the park throughout the year Village Nature Trail or visiting the Daniel's • Rio Grande Village Nature Trail—a the opportunity to learn more about the boardwalk over the pond is an excellent than any other unit in the National Park Ranch picnic area west of the campground. area's rich geologic history and fascinating area for water fowl. System (approximately 400). The park's A similar habitat is accessible between fossil discoveries at the Fossil Discovery • Daniels Ranch Picnic Area—the diverse array of habitats ranging from the Cottonwood Campground and Santa Elena Exhibit. cottonwood trees provide excellent riparian corridor of the Rio Grande to the Canyon on the park's west side. shade to both resident and migrant The Fossil Discovery Exhibit is a self-guided forested canyons of the Chisos Mountains species. interpretive museum that illustrates the present an attractive stopping point for birds The piñon-oak-juniper woodlands of the changes to Big Bend's plants and animals, traveling along major migratory paths that Chisos Mountains and their foothills also Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and the world they lived in, through 130 intersect the park. offer accessible, year-round birding, and • Sam Nail Ranch—a windmill and large million years of geologic time. Specimens attract many species of birds that would not trees attract birds to this historic ruin. from the park's remarkable fossil record A good rule of thumb for birding in Big otherwise be found here. It is well worth • Blue Creek Trail—a half mile from the and full-color artwork help to illustrate the Bend is to seek out areas where water and the effort to hike into the higher elevations. Homer Wilson Ranch are the Red Rocks, fascinating story of Big Bend's ancient life. vegetation are most abundant, such as the During early summer you may spot the an area known for hummingbirds. • Cottonwood Campground—large trees Rio Grande, the Chisos Mountains, or the sought-after Colima Warbler, which is only The exhibit is located 8 miles north of here provide a haven for birds. desert springs, some of which are accessible found outside of Mexico in the Chisos Panther Junction on the Persimmon Gap by car. Mountains. Entrance Road (Highway 385), and is Chisos Mountains open from dawn to dusk. There is a short • Basin area—many mountain birds can geology-themed trail nearby and a shaded Generally the most active time for birding Patience, a good field guide, and knowledge be found around the campground and picnic area with an assortment of fossil- is in the spring when many species are of where to look are the keys to locating Basin developed areas. themed climbing structures for children. migrating through the park. However, with birds in Big Bend. A checklist of birds is • Boot Canyon—the nesting area of the A vault toilet is available at the site (no patience, birding in Big Bend is rewarding available for purchase at any visitor center Colima Warbler and other species. water is available). Cellular telephones can throughout the year. and is a great aid in determining which • South Rim—this 2000' cliff is known for generally get reception at the site. species are likely to be present and the falcons and swifts. The riparian corridor at Rio Grande Village habitats where they are found.

2 The Paisano Safety and Travel Information C.BALLOU

Protecting Yourself and the Park Pets in the Park Big Bend may be wild and unfamiliar country, yet it need not be dangerous. Please spend a moment reviewing these common safety considerations and resource protection guidelines. No Collecting Heat Water Conservation It is the mission of the National Park The dry desert heat quickly uses up the • Visitors are limited to 5 gallons of water Service to preserve all natural and cultural body's water reserves. Carry and drink per day and are encouraged to conserve resources unimpaired for future generations. water—at least 1 gallon per person per day. further; please consider bringing some of Taking things like geodes or arrowheads, or As you exercise, you lose salt and water (over your water from home. collecting plants or animals robs everyone a quart and a half per hour during arduous • Be water-wise when using the restroom; of this heritage—once something is stolen, it exercise). You need both to survive in this don’t let faucets run unnecessarily.

cannot be replaced. extreme environment. Reduce alcohol and • Wash only what clothing items you need. D. MANNLY caffeine intake—the diuretic effects can result • Fill water jugs and bottles at Rio Grande Please, do not destroy, deface, injure, dig, in accelerated loss of body water. Village whenever it is convenient. Having a pet with you may limit some collect, or otherwise disturb park resources • Consider topping off RV water tanks at of your activities and explorations in the including plants or animals (dead or alive), Protect your body—sensitive skin burns your next destination. park. Abiding by these pet regulations will fossils, rocks, or artifacts. It is a violation to easily. Find shade, wear sunscreen, • Take brief showers. ensure a safer, more enjoyable visit for possess park resources. Please, take only sunglasses, and a brimmed hat. Wear long- • Please report noticeable faucet or water yourselves, other park visitors, your pet, pictures and leave only footprints. sleeves, trousers, and proper shoes. leaks. and the park's wildlife. • Use backcountry water sources sparingly; • Pets are not allowed on trails, off roads, leave backcountry springs for wildlife. Driving Hiking or on the river. Your pet can only go Drive within the speed limit (maximum of Trails vary from easy and well maintained where your car can go. 45 mph in most areas) and watch for wildlife to strenuous primitive routes. Plan hikes Wildlife • Pets need to be on a leash no longer grazing along the roadsides, especially at within your ability. Avoid ridges during Observe Big Bend’s wildlife from a distance. than six feet in length (or in a cage) at night. Park roads have limited shoulders thunderstorms, and canyons or creek beds Wildlife is protected in the park; it is illegal all times. and some are steep and winding and require when flash flooding is possible. Carry a to harass or harm wildlife. Never feed wild • You may not leave your pet unattended extra caution. Remember, too, you share the flashlight and first aid kit, and let someone animals. Feeding wild animals damages their in vehicles if it creates a danger to the road with bicyclists and pedestrians. Pull know where you are going and when you health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes animal, or if the animal becomes a public nuisance. off the road to take pictures—do not stop or expect to return. If you get hurt or lost, stay them to predators and other dangers. Protect • If you plan to hike someone must stay pause in roadways. Please, slow down...and in one place to conserve water and energy. wildlife and your food by storing food and behind with the pet, or you will need enjoy! Rest in shade if you can. trash securely. to make arrangements with a kennel service. There is no kennel service in the Drones/Unmanned Aircraft Please keep your children close; don't let Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders, and park. Launching, landing, or operating an un- them run ahead on trails. centipedes are active during warm months. • Park regulations require that you always manned aircraft is prohibited in Big Bend Pay attention: check shoes and bedding clean up after your pet and dispose of National Park. before use and use a flashlight at night. waste in trash receptacles.

Safety at the Border Visiting Mexico Big Bend has a low incidence of crime The Boquillas Port of Entry is open Wednesday to Sunday reported. However in any remote 9:00am-6:00pm (summer), 8:00am-5:00pm (winter). or seldom-traveled location, it is important to consider personal safety Passport Requirement How do I get there? and to secure valuables while away Visiting Mexico through the park's Boquillas Park at the Boquillas Crossing parking from your vehicle. Crossing Port of Entry is an option for lot near Boquillas Canyon. After passing visitors possessing a valid passport. U.S. and through the Port of Entry visitors are ferried • Know where you are at all times Canadian citizens can also present a valid: across the Rio Grande on a small rowboat and use common sense. Cell phone U.S. Passport; Passport Card; Enhanced for a modest fee ($5 round-trip as of 12/16). B. FROHBIETER service may be limited in areas of Driver’s License; Trusted Traveler Program Walking across the river is permitted the park. card (NEXUS, SENTRI or FAST); U.S. only at the Boquillas Crossing, but is not • Keep valuables, including spare Military identification card when traveling recommended if the river level is high. Store and the Rio Grande Visitor Center change, out of sight and lock your on official orders; U.S. Merchant Mariner cannot make change for visitors travelling to vehicle. document when traveling in conjunction Once across the river vsitors have the Boquillas. • Avoid travel on well-used but with official maritime business; or Form option of walking to the village (1/4 mile) unofficial “social trails.” I-872 American Indian Card, or (when or paying an additional fee to ride on a Border Merchants • Do not pick up hitchhikers. available) Enhanced Tribal Card. For burro, horse, or in a vehicle. Local guides Near the border, you may encounter small • People in distress may ask for food, complete information on travel documents are available. Visitors are required to check "souvenir stands," and Mexican Nationals water, or other assistance. Report visit the Western Hemisphere Travel in with Mexican immigration officials upon may attempt to sell you their crafts. It the location of the individuals to Initiative webpage. arrival in Boquillas. Visitors planning to stay is illegal to purchase these items. Items park staff or Border Patrol as soon overnight in Mexico will need to apply for a purchased illegally will be considered as possible. Lack of water is a U.S. and Canadian citizen children under temporary visa. Secure overnight parking at contraband and seized by officers when life-threatening emergency in the the age of 16 (or under 19, if traveling with the Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry may be encountered. Port of Entry staff can answer desert. a school, religious group, or other youth available. questions about items that can be legally • Report suspicious behavior to park group) need only present a birth certificate purchased and imported through the Port. staff or the Border Patrol. Do not or other proof of citizenship. The birth U.S. currency is accepted in Boquillas though By purchasing souvenirs legally, you support contact suspicious persons. certificate can be original, photocopy, or visitors are advised to bring smaller bills or the citizens of Boquillas, make the river • Ask at the visitor center about areas certified copy. rely on Boquillas vendors to provide change corridor safer for all visitors, and help protect where you may have concerns for their purchases. The Rio Grande Village the resources of this ecosystem. about traveling.

The Paisano 3 Places to Visit

Chisos Basin Chisos Basin A drive to the Chisos Basin is an excellent 5401 ft 1646 m way to experience the transition between arid desert and cooler mountain habitats. As this scenic, winding road rises over two thousand feet above the desert floor, it offers vistas of the mountain peaks and the erosion- formed basin area.

Within the Chisos Basin area is a visitor center, campground, lodge, restaurant, gift shop, camp store, and miles of hiking trails.

With limited time, walk the Window View Trail for easy access to mountain vistas and a classic sunset view. If time permits, consider hiking (or backpacking) into the High Chisos to witness the towering forests of Boot Canyon or the unparalleled vistas of the South Rim.

Note: the road into the Basin is not suitable for RVs longer than 24' or trailers longer than 20'.

Rio Grande Village Rio Grande Village The drive to Rio Grande Village traverses 1850 ft 564 m ancient limestone and has marvelous vistas of the magnificent Sierra del Carmens. Along the way is the oasis at Dugout Wells, and a spur road leads to the popular Hot Springs.

Continue the drive to Boquillas Canyon, where a short hike offers excellent views of the Rio Grande as it enters the canyon.

Rio Grande Village has a visitor center, campground, RV hook-ups, camp store, gas station, and picnic area.

Take a stroll (or a short drive) from the store to Daniels Ranch; this is a great area for birding. Picnic tables are near the historic ruins.

The Rio Grande Village Nature Trail crosses a wildlife viewing boardwalk, then gradually climbs the hillside, offering panoramic views of the river, Sierra del Carmens, and Crown Mountain. This is an excellent sunset vista.

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive A trip along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive For more details, use the official park map. highlights the geologic splendor Big Bend is famous for and offers many scenic overlooks and exhibits along the way. Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Overlook, and Tuff Canyon are all worthwhile stops.

History is highlighted at Sam Nail Ranch, Homer Wilson (Blue Creek) Ranch, and the Castolon Historic Compound. Castolon has a visitor center, camp store, and nearby is the Cottonwood Campground.

Continue the drive to the magnificent Santa Elena Canyon, where limestone cliffs rise 1,500’ above the Rio Grande. A short trail leads into the canyon.

Return by the same route, or take the gravel Old Maverick Road to the western entrance of the park. This road is usually passable for most vehicles, but may be impassable after heavy rains. Check at a visitor center for current conditions.

4 The Paisano Popular Trails

The Chisos Mountains Smoking is prohibited on all trails in the Chisos Mountains.

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Basin Loop Chisos Basin Trailhead 1.8/2.6 1 hour 350/107 Moderate Connects the Laguna Meadow and (near the Basin Store) Pinnacles Trails. Nice views of the Basin area.

Emory Peak Chisos Basin Trailhead 10.5/17 7 hours 2400/789 Strenuous Trail leads to the highest peak in (near the Basin Store) the park, with excellent views. The end of the trail involves some moderate rock scrambling.

Lost Mine Basin Road, mile 5 4.8/7.7 3 hours 1100/335 Moderate Excellent mountain and desert (at the pass) views. For a shorter hike, 1 mile up is a great view to the southeast.

South Rim Chisos Basin Trailhead 12/19.4 8 hours 2000/656 Strenuous Trail leads to a 2000’ cliff with (near the Basin Store) 15/24 10 hours 2000/656 incredible views of the desert below. Hike either the southwest rim, or add the northeast and southeast rim trails when open.

Window Chisos Basin Trailhead 5.6/9.0 4 hours 980/299 Moderate Descends to the top of the Window or Basin Campground 4.4/7.0 3 hours 500/152 pour-off. Great scenery and wildlife viewing. For a shorter hike, start from the Basin Campground (near campsite 51).

Window View Chisos Basin Trailhead 0.3/0.5 1/4 hour 0/0 Easy Level, paved, accessible. Great mountain

(near the Basin Store) views. Best place in the Basin to catch a sunset J.JURADO through the Window. A viewpoint on the paved Window View Trail.

Eastside — Panther Junction and Rio Grande Village

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Grapevine Hills 6.4 miles down the 2.2/3.5 1 hour 240/73 Easy Follows a sandy wash through a boulder Balanced Rock Grapevine Hills Road field. A short but steep climb near the end takes you to a large balanced rock. No shade.

Chihuahuan Desert Dugout Wells 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 10/3 Easy Loop trail with interpretive signs on Nature Trail desert ecology. Look for javelina tracks and resident birds.

Hot Springs End of Hot Springs Road 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 0/0 Easy Walk past historic buildings to the (unpaved narrow road) riverside hot spring. Enjoy a soak in 105°F water. Hot Spring is subject to flooding during rising river levels.

Boquillas Canyon End of Boquillas Canyon 1.4/2.3 1 hour 40/12 Easy Begins with a short climb, then descends Road via a sandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand dune “slide.”

Daniels Ranch to Daniels Ranch parking 6/10 3 hours 100/31 Moderate Trail from Daniels Ranch to the Hot Hot Springs Trail area, west of Rio Springs. Cliff drop-offs prevent access to the Grande Village river along most of the route. No shade.

Rio Grande Village Rio Grande Village, 0.75/1.2 1 hour 130/40 Easy First 300' leads to a wildlife viewing Nature Trail across from campsite 18 platform on a pond. Trail then climbs the hillside with views of the river and mountains. Great for birding and sunsets. C. BALLOU

A view from the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail.

Westside — Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Sam Nail Ranch Ross Maxwell Scenic 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 10/3 Easy Well-maintained trail leads through the Drive, mile 3 old ranch site. The combination of water and shade makes this an excellent birding location.

Lower Burro Mesa Burro Mesa Spur Road 1.0/1.6 1/2 hour 60/18 Easy Trail enters a dry wash and ends at the Pour-off bottom of the dramatic Burro Mesa pour-off. A great walk for viewing geological features.

Chimneys Ross Maxwell Scenic 4.8/7.7 2 hours 400/122 Moderate Flat and scenic desert trail to rock Drive, mile 13 formations of an eroded dike. Look for Native American rock art and shelters. No shade.

Mule Ears Spring Ross Maxwell Scenic 3.8/6.1 3 hours 20/6 Moderate Beautiful desert hike to a small Drive, mile 15 spring. Spectacular geology with mountain and desert views.

Dorgan-Sublett Castolon to Santa Elena 1.0/1.6 1/2 hour 56/17 Easy This short easy trail leads to the ruins of Trail Canyon Road, near historic farm houses owned by settlers in the mile 5 early to mid-1900s.

Santa Elena Ross Maxwell Scenic 1.6/2.6 1 hour 80/26 Easy This trail crosses Terlingua Creek (usually Canyon Drive, 8 miles west of dry) and gradually climbs up to an overlook Castolon before dropping to the river bank. Trail has C. BALLOU some steep steps and can be very hot midday. A view from the Santa Elena Canyon Trail.

The Paisano 5 Camping in the Park J. JURADO Developed Campgrounds Chisos Basin Cottonwood Rio Grande Village Rio Grande Village RV The Chisos Basin Campground is Cottonwood Campground is a quiet, shady Set in a large grove of cottonwoods, the Open, paved lot with grassy, tree-lined surrounded by tall, rocky cliffs and desert oasis located between the Castolon campground is adjacent to the Rio Grande. edges. Adjacent to the camp store. This conveniently located near some of the park's Historic District and the scenic Santa Elena The RGV camp store and showers are within campground, operated by Forever Resorts, most spectacular and popular trails. Canyon. walking distance. LLC, has the only full hook-ups in the park. Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Details: 60 campsites (no hook-ups). $14 Details: 24 campsites (no hook-ups). $14 per Details: 100 campsites (no hook-ups). $14 Details: 25 campsites. Concession-operated per night ($7 per night with applicable pass). night ($7 per night with applicable pass). Pit per night ($7 per night with applicable pass). RV park with full hook-ups—water, Flush toilets, running water, grills, picnic toilets, running water, grills, picnic tables, no Flush toilets, running water, picnic tables, electrical, and 3-inch sewer connection. $36, tables, and dump station. Trailers over 20' dump station, no generators allowed. A small grills, and some overhead shelters. Dump double occupancy, with a $3 additional per and RV's over 24' are not recommended due picnic area is available across from campsite station nearby. person charge. Periodically, a few sites may to narrow, winding road to the Basin and #23. Reservable Campsites: 43 sites are not be available for a 40' or longer RVs due to small campsites in this campground. Reservable Campsites: There are no reservable November 15–April 15. Contact the size of the parking lot and orientation of Reservable Campsites: 26 sites are reservable campsites in the Cottonwood www. recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-6777. the spaces. reservable from November 15–May 31. Campground. All individual campsites are on Group Camping: 4 group campsites are Reservable Campsites: 20 sites are available Contact www.recreation.gov, or call 1-877- a first come, first-served basis. available by advance reservation only. Group by reservation, 5 are held for first come, first- 444-6777. Group Camping: One group campsite is campsites are walk-in tent camping only. served campers. Register at the Rio Grande Group Camping: 7 group campsites are available by advance reservation only. Group Vehicle parking is restricted to an adjacent Village store/service station, or call 1-877- available by advance reservation only. To campsite is walk-in tent camping only. To parking area. To reserve a group campsite, 386-4383, or 432-477-2293. reserve a group campsite, contact reserve the group campsite, contact contact www.recreation.gov or call 1-877- www.recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-6777. www.recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-6777. 444-6777. Generator Hours: 8:00AM to 11:00AM and Generator Hours: No generators allowed. Generator Hours: 8:00AM to 8:00PM. 5:00PM to 8:00PM.

Developed Campgrounds at a Glance

Elevation (ft/meters) Sites Nightly Fee Facilities Registration Comments Chisos Basin 5,401/1,646 60 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Surrounded by rocky cliffs; many hiking trails nearby. Cottonwood 2,169/661 24 $14.00* Pit toilets, no generator use allowed Self-pay station In a cottonwood grove along the river. Grassy sites. Rio Grande Village 1,850/564 100 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Along the river w/some shady sites. Laundry and showers nearby. Rio Grande Village RV 1,850/564 25 $36.00 and up Full hook-ups RGV Camp Store Concession-operated; register at the RGV store. * $7.00 with a lifetime interagency pass. Observe posted campground quiet hours.

Backcountry Camping and River Use Backcountry Permits

Primitive Roadside Campsites a large animal-proof box to store food and other items. Please plan All roadside sites are along unpaved roads. Some centrally located to bring everything you need, including water, shade, chairs, and a sites are accessible to most vehicles, however a high clearance and/or trowel to bury human waste. 4-wheel drive vehicle is necessary to reach those along the primitive dirt roads. Please remember, campfires (all wood fires or ground fires) are strictly prohibited. Use cook stoves with caution. Generators are not Sites offer a cleared gravel location to park your vehicle and set up a allowed in backcountry areas, and pets must be kept on a leash within tent. There are no amenities at any backcountry campsite aside from the boundaries of the camp site.

Backpacking help reduce impact and damage to this delicate environment. Sites M. HENCH include a cleared area for a tent as well as a bear-proof storage box, Big Bend National Park has over 200 miles of trails in the Chisos How to Obtain a Permit: Mountains and desert terrain, with options for overnight which must be used to store all scented items. A permit for a specific Permits are required for any overnight backpacking within these beautiful habitats. site must be obtained prior to camping. backcountry camping, river use, and stock use, and can be obtained at any visitor Chisos Mountains Wilderness Camping center during normal business hours. There are 41 campsites along Chisos Mountains trails, ranging from Wilderness camping permits are available to experienced hikers Please bring the license plate number of one to eight miles from the trailhead. These sites are designated to intending to camp within the park's open desert areas. any vehicles involved in the permit.

River Use & Stock Permits Horse/Stock Permits • Backcountry permits are issued on a River Use Permits Stock permits are available for visitors who wish to ride horses in first-come, first-served basis and can River permits are required for visitors intending to use canoes, kayaks the park. All gravel roads are open to horse riders. Horses are not be written up to one day in advance of or rafts on the Rio Grande. Day-use permits are also available for permitted on paved roads or the shoulders of the paved roads. Cross- the intended use. parties that do not intend to overnight camp on the river, and can be country horse travel (not on some trails) is permitted throughout • Permits can be written for up to written for multiple consecutive days from the date of issue. USCG the park except the Chisos Mountains area. Horse use in the Chisos fourteen consecutive nights from the approved wearable PFDs are required for each person, and an extra Mountains is limited to the Laguna Meadow, Southwest Rim to the first day of backcountry use, and can PFD is required. Each vessel must carry an extra paddle or oar; Boot Canyon Trail Junction, and Blue Creek trails. be modified but not extended. kayaks must have an extra paddle per party. In addition to the items • Backcountry use is subject to rules listed above each overnight river camping pary must carry a firepan Backcountry riders must provide controlled overnight maintenance and regulations regarding sanitation with a 2 inch minimum rim and a system for removing solid human of their animals, including provision of commercial feed. Grazing and minimal impact practices that waste. within the park is not allowed. Check at a visitor center for additional must be agreed to in order to obtain a information about stock use in the park. permit.

6 The Paisano Panthers inthe Park though Johnnie was only 15 he proved his present day Big National Bend Park. Even the western side the of ChisosMountains in area during that time and was located on G-4 was one the of largest ranches inthe cattle to the G-4Ranch inwest Texas. The joined the Estado &Cattle Land Co. herding the funds to make it to the west coast and They soon discovered that they did nothave the dream making of it rich inCalifornia. older brother lefttheir east Texas home with In 1884John “Johnnie” Allen Ward and his and rugged west Texas. adventure and found living himself inwild it all started with ayoung boy who setout for things to bearthe name; but what isit? Well Ward must have aspecial meaning for two Ward Mountain and Ward Spring. Obviously same istruehere inBig inparticular Bend, we ever hear the story behind the name. The hills have all beengiven titles but rarely do it called that?” Mountain ranges, peaks and wondered “does it have aname” or “why is Have you ever looked at avista and By DawnellaPetrey, ParkRanger Johnnie Ward other wildlife communities. sometimes unexpected consequences on fall which apart, canhave far-reaching and the complex food web anarea of caneasily natural biomes. Without mountain lions, wildlife, reduces soil quality, and degrades on the land destroys the habitats other of to overgrazing and erosion. This damage from anoverabundance deer, of which leads mountain lions have beenremoved suffer and sustainable ecosystem. Areas where a vital role inthe maintenance adiverse of Like all top predators, mountain lions play that Big has managed Bend to preserve. presence here isamark the of wilderness seen the creation anational of park. Their bust 20th ranching, of century and they’ve up camps,they’ve witnessed the boom and They’ve watched asprehistoric nomads set Big country Bend for thousands years. of discussed, this elusive animal has lived inthe through the shadows. Seldom seenbut often peaks, the mountain lion moves silently Prowling through the tall grasses and rocky By JeannetteWoerner, ParkRanger Nature Notes Nature Notes (564 m). Lowest point: Rio Grande Village; 1,850feet m). Highest point: Emory Peak; 7,832feet (2,387 Elevation: 15th largest unit inthe National Park System 801,163 acres (1,252square miles) Size: Big Fast Bend Facts he planned to usethe bearasanattraction man was agypsy that sold “snake oil,” and camp with the group for the night. The sold the bearto agentleman who had made down the mountain for all to see,Johnnie tied the bear. After hauling the bearback Ward Spring and eventually roped and hog the culprit. He chased it upthe peak behind herd by abear, Johnnie took inpursuit off of found spring. After several attacks on the began keeping cattle inthe area the of newly named it Ward Spring inhishonor. They the ChisosMountains. The ranch manager spring at the one the baseof of peaks in the snow cleared, Johnnie discovered anew replenished the area's water sources. After this affected the drop,year’s calf it also blizzards that blanketed the land. Although In the winter 1887there of were several control histemper. land, how to repair equipment, and how to taught Johnnie things like how to live off the passed on their skills and knowledge. They took aquick liking to himand willingly for the next seven years. The other cowboys permanent ranch hand position that he kept theof ranch manager. He was offered a worth asacowboy and earned the respect camouflage, prefer to avoid people. being aware it, of because lions, masters of without incident—often without even contact with mountain lions frequently Here inthe park, visitors come into close dogs than to beattacked by this large cat. lightning, killed by bees, deer, or domestic rare. You are more likely to bestruck by mountain lion attacks on humans are very sources like deer or cattle. Despite our fear, historically competed with humans for food secretive ambush predators, they have also feared by humans—not only are they large, course, mountainOf lions have long been where this species isprotected. areBend the only areas inthe state of Texas mountainof lions. National parks such asBig no regulations or limits regarding the hunting hunting islegal inmost states, and Texas has also amajor danger. Today, mountain lion threats to mountain lions, but hunting is the U.S. Urban expansion isone the of top been extirpated outthe of eastern of half throughout the Americas, they have now While they once roamed from coast to coast control and habitat losscaused by humans. been reduced severely asaresult predator of Unfortunately, mountain lion range has Chihuahua &Coahuila states: Mexican States bordering the Park—2 km) Shared International Border—118 miles (190 US/Mexico Border: CanyonBoquillas 33miles (53km) Mariscal Canyon 10miles (16km) Santa Elena Canyon 20miles (32km) River Canyons: serve himwell throughout hislife. into the man that he was and continued to in Big Bend. Those experiences shaped him he learned while working on the G-4Ranch Johnnie Ward never did forget the life lessons loved until hisdeath on January 6,1929. Angora goats. He continued to live the life he area and became awell-known breeder of Johnnie began ranching inthe central Texas eight children, five boys and three girls. married in1893. They would go on the have friend by the Virginia name of who he man. He reconnected with achildhood young teenager into dependable asmart for the G-4Ranch, he had grown from a home. During Johnnie’s seven years working Johnnie, and he decided it was time to go Witnessing these changes took its toll on slowly the once openrange began to vanish. to protect their cattle and acreage and owners began to put upbarbed wire fences contamination water of sources. Land big problem aswell asovergrazing and In the early 1890’scattle theft became a Ward Mountain. Johnnie captured the bearbecame known as impression on the men, and the peak where for hisshow. These events caused quite an the panthers inthe park. we canstay respectful, rather than fearful of Through education and conservation efforts, for both our species of sosafely coexist. throughout history, it ispossible to find ways and mountain lions have come into conflict environmental well being. Though humans NationalBend Park isvital to our park’s The presence mountain of lions inBig you and instead. scamper off lion will change its mind about approaching sticks, appear large, and act aggressive sothe intimidate! Make loud noises,throw rocks or by one. Lions are surprisingly easy to what to you do are if ever approached our surroundings. You should also remember mountain lion territory and to beaware of it isimportant to recognize that we are in and lions have resulted inhuman fatality, incidences inBig between Bend people starvation. While none the of handful of domestic petsasalast resort inthe face of and javelina, they may go after humans or from their natural food source deer of preventing them from gaining nutrition with illness or some physiological factor people out asprey. However, when stressed Mountain lions do nottypically seek 75 species mammals 1,295 species flora of Flora and Fauna: Rio Grande Village 1,850feet (564m). Castolon 2,169feet (661m). Panther Junction 3,750feet (1,143m). 5,401feetChisos Basin (1,664m). Casa Grande Peak 7,325feet (2,233m). South Rim7,375feet (2,248 m). Emory Peak 7,832feet (2,387m). Landmarks and Elevations: Johnnie Ward A mountainlion,alsoknownasapanther. Theft Park of Resources Exotic Species Rio Grande Water Quality &Quantity Air Quality/Visibility Major Resource Issues: 38 species fi sh 11 species amphibians 56 species reptiles 450+ species birds h Piao 7 Paisano The

J.D. PALMER, SWEETMAN JOHNNIE WARD - COWBOY D. SWEETMAN C. BALLOU Services Inside the Park Information and Services Emergency Call 911 Accessibility Fires Prohibited Post Office All visitor centers are accessible, as are the Ground fires and wood fires are strictly A full-service post office is located at the National Park Service Chisos Mountains Lodge restaurant and prohibited throughout the park. Only gas Panther Junction Headquarters, open M–F, General Information 432-477-2251 some motel rooms and campsites. The stoves and charcoal contained in a grill may 8am–11:30am and 12:30pm–3:00pm. A mail Window View Trail is paved and fairly level. be used. Use caution with any heat source. drop is also available at the Chisos Basin Big Bend Natural History Association Booksales & Seminars 432-477-2236 Store. Camp Stores & ATMs Gas Stations Visitor Centers Forever Resorts, LLC, operates stores at Gasoline and diesel are available at Panther Recycling Panther Junction (Hdqtrs) 432-477-1158 Castolon, Chisos Basin, and Rio Grande Junction and Rio Grande Village service Recycling receptacles are provided in Chisos Basin 432-477-2264 Village. ATMs are available at the Chisos stations. Panther Junction has propane campgrounds and near stores and visitor Castolon 432-477-2666 Basin store, Rio Grande Village store and exchange. Rio Grande Village offers propane centers. Every bit of material recycled means Persimmon Gap 432-477-2393 Panther Junction service station. refilling. one less piece buried in the park landfill. Rio Grande Village 432-477-2271 Please recycle!

U.S. Post Office Camping Limits Junior Ranger Panther Junction 432-477-2238 Visitors can stay in the park up to 14 Kids earn a badge and have fun learning Showers and Laundry consecutive nights, whether in a front about the park by becoming a Junior Ranger. Pay showers and laundry facilities are Lodging/Restaurant or backcountry site, with a limit of 28 Booklets are available online and at park available at the Rio Grande Village Store and Chisos Mountains Lodge 432-477-2291 total nights in the park in a calendar year. visitor centers. have 24-hour access. Out-of-park facilities Reservations 877-386-4383 Campers can occupy a specific site up to 14 are available in Study Butte. total nights in a year. Between February 1 Gas Stations and April 15, visitors are limited to 14 total Panther Junction 432-477-2294 Visitor Centers nights in the park. Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 Panther Junction, Chisos Basin, and Persimmon Gap Visitor Centers are open Camper Stores Entrance Fees year-round. Rio Grande Village and Castolon Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 • Single private non-commercial vehicle Visitor Centers are open November–April. Chisos Basin 432-477-2291 $25—valid for 7 days Castolon 432-477-2222 • Single motorcycle $20—valid for 7 days Lodging Wifi/Internet • Single person entry on foot or bicycle The Chisos Mountains Lodge, located in Free wireless internet is available at the Services Outside the Park $12 per person—valid for 7 days the Chisos Basin, includes 72 rooms, gift Panther Junction and Chisos Basin Visitor • Big Bend Annual Pass $50—valid for one shop, dining room and camp store. For more Centers, the Chisos Mountains Lodge, and year from month of purchase information call 432-477-2291 or 877-386- the Rio Grande Village Camp Store. There This listing of local services is a courtesy to our visitors and implies no endorsement by the National • Interagency Annual Pass $80—valid for 4383. are no public computer terminals. Park Service or Big Bend National Park. one year from month of purchase Phones Lodging Kennels All other valid passes will be accepted until Public pay phones are located outside the Lajitas • Alpine Veterinary Clinic expired (Senior Pass, Access Pass, etc.). For Chisos Mountains Lodge and Rio Grande Lajitas Resort 877-525-4827 432-837-3888 commercial rates, please consult our website: Village Store. • Alpine Small Animal Clinic www.nps.gov/bibe. Additional permits may Marathon 432-837-5416 Gage Hotel 432-386-4205 be required. Marathon Motel 432-386-4241 Eve’s Garden 432-386-4165

Study Butte/Terlingua area Big Bend Casitas 800-839-7238 Park Partners Big Bend Resorts 800-848-2363 Easter Egg Valley Motel 432-371-2254 El Dorado Motel 432-371-2111 Big Bend Natural History Big Bend Conservancy Volunteers in the Park Longhorn Ranch Hotel 432-371-2541 Association The Big Bend Conservancy (BBC) is a Approximately 260 volunteers contribute Ten Bits Ranch 866-371-3110 The Big Bend Natural History Association private, non-profit organization whose 50,000 hours of work every year in Big Bend Terlingua House 325-473-4400 (BBNHA) was established in 1956 as a mission is to support, promote, and raise National Park! Whether staffing visitor private, non-profit organization. The funds for Big Bend National Park in centers and campgrounds or patrolling Camping Association’s goal is to educate the public partnership with the National Park Service. backcountry trails, volunteers protect Big Bend Resorts 800-848-2363 and increase understanding and appreciation valuable resources and help visitors learn Big Bend Ranch State Park 432-424-3327 of the Big Bend area and what it represents in The BBC has funded a range of criticul about, and more safely enjoy, Big Bend Big Bend Travel Park 432-371-2250 projects, including Rio Grande Village National Park. B.J.'s RV Park 432-371-2259 terms of our historical and natural heritage. wetlands restoration, the purchase of Heath Canyon Ranch 432-376-2235 BBNHA champions the mission of the video camera and editing equipment, While you might not notice volunteer Longhorn Ranch 432-371-2541 National Park Service in interpreting the Stillwell’s Trailer Camp 432-376-2244 scenic, scientific, and historic values of Big retrofit of night sky lighting, support for contributions at first, look around and you'll Study Butte RV Park 432-371-2468 Bend, and encourages research related to construction of the Boquillas crossing be surprised how many volunteers you see. those values. station, and the Park orientation film. The It is primarily volunteers who provide visitor Convenience Stores/Gasoline BBC's latest accomplishment is the addition information at campgrounds, and at four of Big Bend Resorts 800-848-2363 The Association conducts seminars, and of the Park's $1.4 million Fossil Discovery the five visitor centers in the park. They keep Cottonwood General Store 432-371-3315 publishes, prints, or otherwise provides Exhibit completed during the BBC's 20th the campsites, backcountry roads, and trails Stillwell Store & Station 432-376-2244 books, maps, and interpretive materials on anniversary year. in pristine condition, assist with maintenance projects, and are considered the eyes and Medical Services the Big Bend region. Proceeds fund exhibits, Visit www.bigbendconservancy.org to learn ears of the park. Please thank them for their Terlingua Fire and EMS 911 films, interpretive programs, seminars, how you can support Big Bend, including services if you have the opportunity. For Big Bend Medical Center 432-837-3447 museum activities, and research. how to get your own Big Bend National Park more information, contact the volunteer Banks license plate. coordinator at 432-477-1106. Quicksilver Bank/ATM 432-371-2211

Local Outfitters Angell Expeditions 432-229-3713 Big Bend Overland Tours 800-848-2363 Big Bend River Tours 800-545-4240 Desert Sports 888-989-6900 Far Flung Outdoor Center 800-839-7238 Rio Aviation 432-557-9477

Horseback Riding PO Box 200 Big Bend Stables 800-887-4331 Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 www.nps.gov/volunteer Lajitas Livery 432-424-3238 432-477-2242 www.bigbendbookstore.org www.bigbendconservancy.org

8 The Paisano