Undergraduate Spring Break Field Trip 2014 Western Texas and Southern New Mexico davis mountains - big bend - guadalupe mountains - white sands Department of Geological Sciences, Brown University Itinerary
Part One: Davis Mountains Day 1: Friday, March 21 Early Morning: Fly Delta Air Lines flight 1263 from PVD to ATL (duration 2 hours 49 minutes) Morning: Fly Delta Air Lines flight 2136 from ATL to ELP (duration 3 hours 28 minutes) Midday: Claim checked baggage, obtain rental cars, and shop for food at Walmart Afternoon: Drive 3.5 hours to Davis Mountains State Park Evening: Set up camp at Davis Mountains State Park and eat dinner Evening: Attend the McDonald Observatory Star Party (2 hours) The Star Party takes full advantage of the dark night skies of Western Texas. Constellations and celestial objects will be viewed through numerous telescopes at the observatory. Day 2: Saturday, March 22 Morning: Hike the 2.4-mile Madera Canyon Trail (2 hours) The Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountains Preserve hosts the 900 ft.-deep Madera Canyon. Springs and volcanic dikes are noteworthy features. Morning: Attend the McDonald Observatory daytime tour This 2 hour 30 minute guided tour includes a 45-50 minute solar viewing and 90-100 minute tour of the facilities. Afternoon: Drive 20 minutes to Fort Davis National Historic Site, have lunch, and explore Afternoon: Visit the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center This nature center is located in the foothills of the Davis Mountains and has a desert botanical garden and short walking trails to explore. Afternoon: Drive 2 hours 30 minutes to Big Bend National Park We will stop at the Fossil Bone Exhibit on the way into the park. Evening: Arrive at Chisos Basin Campground and set up camp Part Two: Big Bend Day 3: Sunday, March 23 Morning: Hike 10.5-mile Emory Peak Trail (7 hours) This mountain trail goes past spectacular vistas and leads to the highest peak in the park. The last 25 feet requires a scramble up an exposed rock face. Evening: Hike the 0.3-mile Window View Trail (5 minutes); enjoy sunset at 8:05pm This easy stroll offers excellent views of the mountain peaks surrounding the Chisos Basin. Day 4: Monday, March 24 Morning: Drive to the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive (45 minutes) This scenic drive showcases some of the most historic and geologic features of Big Bend. Morning: Hike the 3.8-mile Mule Ears Spring Trail (3 hours) This hike leads through the foothills of the Chisos Mountains, skirts Trap Mountain, and crosses several arroyos. An old rock corral is near an overgrown spring with shrubs, ferns, and cattails. Midday: Drive to Tuff Canyon and hike through the gorge Afternoon: Visit the Castolon Historic District Visitor Center Castolon was established as a cavalry camp in the early Twentieth Century. Afternoon: Hike the Santa Elena Canyon Trail (1 hour) The trail follows the Rio Grande upstream and then drops down to the canyon floor of this 1,500-foot vertical chasm. The right wall of the canyon is in Texas, while the left wall is in Mexico. Afternoon: Hike the 0.5-mile Burro Mesa Trail (30 minutes) Evening: Make brief stops at the Sotol Vista Overlook and Blue Creek Ranch Overlook (time permitting) The Sotol Vista offers views of the entire western side of Big Bend National Park, including Santa Elena Canyon. The Blue Creek Ranch Overlook provides views of the headquarters of the Homer Wilson Ranch, which used to be one of the largest in the region. Day 5: Tuesday, March 25 Morning: Hike the 4.8-mile Lost Mine Trail (3.5 hours) This trail is a great way to witness the flora and fauna of the Chisos Mountains. The trail climbs steeply in and out of juniper, oak, and pine forest. The ridge offers superb views of Pine Canyon and the Sierra del Carmen in Mexico. Afternoon: Drive 1 hour to the Terlingua ghost town; explore the ghost town The ruins of the Chisos Mining Company are the backdrop of this unique stop. Afternoon: Visit the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center Self-guided tours go through the Interpretive Center and two-acre desert garden. Afternoon: Drive 1 hour 15 minutes to the Grapevine Hills Trail Afternoon: Hike the 2.2-mile Grapevine Hills Trail (1 hour) This trail leads hikers to a balanced rock formation. Evening: Drive back to camp Day 6: Wednesday, March 26 Morning: Pack up camp and drive 2 hours to Big Bend Ranch State Park Morning: Hike the 1.4-mile Closed Canyon Trail (1 hour) and 1-mile Hoodoos Trail (1 hour) Closed Canyon is a narrow slot canyon. The Hoodoos Trail descends to the Rio Grande river. Afternoon: Drive 2 hours to Marfa, TX; shop for food Evening: Drive 2 hours 15 minutes to Guadalupe Mountains National Park; set up camp at Pine Springs Campground Part Three: Guadalupe Mountains Day 7: Thursday, March 27 Morning: Guided and self-guided tours of Carlsbad Caverns The 2-hour Left Hand Tunnel tour begins at 9:00am and the 1.5-hour Kings Palace tour begins at 10:30am. Both cave groups will also take the Big Room self-guided tour. Afternoon: Hike the 0.9-mile McKittrick Canyon Nature Trail Trailside exhibits describe common plants. This is also a great opportunity to learn about Permian Reef geology. Afternoon: Hike the Permian Reef Geology Trail (3 hours) This is a trail for serious geology buffs. There are excellent views looking down into McKittrick Canyon from the top of Wilderness Ridge. The trail is 8.4 miles round-trip, but turn around after hiking 1 hour 30 minutes. Evening: Hike the short Pinery Trail before dinner This short hike from the Pine Springs Visitor Center goes to the ruins of the old Pinery Station, once a favored stop on the original 2,800-mile Butterfield Overland Mail Route. Trailside exhibits describe Chihuahuan Desert vegetation. Part Four: White Sands Day 8: Friday, March 28 Morning: Hike the 2.3-mile Smith Spring Trail at Frijole Ranch (1.5 hours) Enjoy the shady oasis of Smith Spring and the gurgling sounds of the tiny waterfall before continuing around to sunny Manzanita Spring. Morning: Drive 2 hours 30 minutes to El Paso Midday: Take the Wyler Aerial Tramway and have lunch at the top The tramway offers panoramic views of the Franklin Mountains. Afternoon: Drive 1 hour 45 minutes to White Sands National Monument Afternoon: Explore White Sands Potential activities include going on short hikes and sledding down the gypsum dunes. Hiking options include the Playa Trail, Dune Life Nature Trail, and the Interdune Boardwalk. Evening: Drive 40 minutes to Oliver Lee Memorial State Park; set up camp Return to Brown University Day 9: Saturday, March 29 Morning: Eat a pancake breakfast; clean up the campsite and rental cars Morning: Drive 1 hour 30 minutes to El Paso International Airport Afternoon: Fly Delta Air Lines flight 2136 from ELP to ATL (duration 3 hours 12 minutes) Evening: Fly Delta Air Lines flight 772 from ATL to PVD (duration 2 hours 25 minutes) Night: Arrive at the Providence airport, claim checked baggage, and return to GeoChem Itinerary i Chihuahuan Desert 2 Regional Deformation History 3 Stratigraphy and Noteworthy Structural Features 4 Davis Mountains 7 Friday, March 21 9 Davis Mountains 10 McDonald Observatory 12 Undergraduate Students: Dark Energy Experiment 13 Jeff Baum Saturday, March 22 14 Jonah Berkowitz Davis Mountains Preserve 15 Raquel Bryant Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center 16 Chris Carchedi Lena Champlin Camera Ford Big Bend 17 Adam Gilbert Big Bend National Park 21 Alan Gorchov Negron Geology of Big Bend 22 Greg Jordan-Detamore Paleontology 24 Lydia Joukowsky Dinosaurs and Pterosaurs 26 Rachel Kaplan History and Culture 28 Allison Lawman Oliver McLellan Sunday, March 23 29 James Napoli Wildlife of Big Bend 30 Nick O’Mara Collared Peccary 32 Gene Robinson Monday, March 24 34 Bekah Stein Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive 35 Marina Stevenson Igneous Geology 36 Conor Sullivan Rio Grande River 38 Klara Zimmerman Tuesday, March 25 40 Terlingua and Mining History 41 Graduate Students: Sam Bova Wednesday, March 26 42 Tabb Prissel Big Bend Ranch State Park 43 Native American History 44 Professor: Steve Parman Guadalupe Mountains 45 Geology of Guadalupe Mountains 48 This book was designed Environment of Guadalupe Mountains 50 by Greg Jordan-Detamore Roadside Geology Guide 52 and organized by Greg Thursday, March 27 54 Jordan-Detamore, Klara Carlsbad Caverns 55 Zimmerman, and Allison Speleothems as Climate Proxies 57 Lawman. Cave Geology 58 This trip generously Bat Research 60 received funding from the McKittrick Canyon Geology 62 Rhode Island Space Grant Permian Reef Geology Trail 64 Consortium. White Sands 67 Friday, March 28 71 Smith Spring Trail 72 White Sands 74 Common Native Plants 76 Common Tracks and Scat 78 History of Commercial Filming 80 Recent Research 82 Planetary Analog 84 Sacramento Mountains 86 Saturday, March 22
Morning: Madera Canyon Trail (B) The Madera Canyon Trail offers a glimpse into The Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountains Preserve, a unique sky island with plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. The trail offers a moderate hike. Most of the trail is on sloping terrain. After crossing the Madera Creek, the trail winds through pinyon-oak-juniper woodlands to a scenic view of 8,378 foot Mount Livermore. The cliff tops in front of you offer a beautiful overlook of Madera Canyon. — The Nature Conservancy Davis Mountains Midday: McDonald Observatory (C) The Visitors Center operates a set of specially filtered telescopes equipped with HD video cameras that allow us to bring live, safe views of the Sun into our multimedia theater. Your knowledgeable guide will discuss some interesting highlights about the history of the Sun, its formation, and what we expect the Sun to do over its expected 5-6 billion year remaining “lifetime”. Assuming relatively clear skies, your guide will use the telescopes’ remote controls to steer around a live view of the Sun showing and discussing various surface features typically visible. On not so clear days, video and stills from clear days as well as from the web are used. This is typically a 45-50 minute program. ... Your guide for the Solar Viewing is also your guide for the Tour immediately following the Solar program. The Tour typically begins at the overlook to the south of the 107” dome. From there, peaks over 80 miles way can be seen. At this location, your guide will typically discuss some of the history of the Observatory and why this location was chosen for an astronomical research facility. After pointing out some of the peaks in the area, the tour typically then proceeds to the ground floor lobby of the 107” dome where some of the history of that telescope is discussed. After a climb up four flights of steps (an elevator is available for those who shouldn’t or can’t take the steps .. your guide with discuss access to the elevator) the tour continues with descriptions of the parts of the telescope seen at the 5th floor level, demonstrations of the telescope motions, etc. After visiting the 107” telescope, your guide will provide instructions for continuing with the tour at the summit of Mt. Fowlkes and the Hobby-Eberly Telescope. At the HET, you’ll learn more about that telescope’s unique, low-cost (for a world class telescope, at least) design and about new cutting-edge research projects for which the HET is currently being re-engineered. — McDonald Observatory Midday: Fort Davis National Historic Site (D) A brief stop here will give us a chance to rest while taking in some of the local history. “Fort Davis is one of the best surviving examples of an Indian Wars’ frontier military post in the Southwest. From 1854 to 1891, Fort Davis was strategically located to protect emigrants, mail coaches, and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and on the Chihuahua Trail.” — National Park Service Afternoon: Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center (E) In 1978, the board and supporters of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute purchased 507 acres of rolling grassland, oak- studded hills, and shady canyon springs in the foothills of the Davis Mountains. Here, they established the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. For over three decades, visitors have explored this tranquil and visually stunning site, taking the opportunity to reconnect with nature and discover the desert. Highlights of the Nature Center include a desert botanical garden, 1400 sq. ft. cactus and succulent greenhouse, over 3 miles of hiking trails, and interpretive exhibits. Both formal and informal education programs for children and adults are offered throughout the year. — Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute Afternoon: Drive to Big Bend Our drive to Big Bend National Park will take approximately 2.5 hours. On our way into the park, we will stop at the Fossil Bone Exhibit. We will set up camp at Chisos Basin Campground in the center of the park. 14 Sunday, March 23 Monday, March 24 Big Bend Tuesday, March 25 Wednesday, March 26
Big Bend National Park is a Chihuahuan Desert Nature Preserve that will introduce us to Southwestern geology. We’ll explore volcanism, rock deformation, dinosaur fossils, and landscapes modified by the erosive power of the Rio Grande River. Big Bend
National Park Service 20 Big Bend National Park By National Park Service
The author Fredrick Gelbach describes these bor- area, and ever-changing arroyos, dry most of the year, derlands aptly when he calls them “a carpet of inter- but subject to violent flash flooding during summer acting plants and animals deftly woven on a geologic rains. Water is truly the “architect” of the desert, as its loom.” This statement conjures up images of looming presence or absence determines the way the desert mountains, stark desert landscapes, and a ribbon of looks, its plant and animal life, and the way humans water slicing through it all. And, indeed, this is what have been able to use it through time. Lest you feel a Big Bend and the surrounding area is—a diverse natu- pang of pity for the roadrunners, coyotes, or javelinas ral area of river, desert, and mountains, and a land of you may encounter living in this harsh land, don’t— extremes—hot and cold, wet and dry, high and low. the adaptations that allow these creatures to live here To wander the shimmering desert flats, to ascend the are no less than amazing, and, in fact, even allow them rimrocks of the desert mountains, to float the canyons to thrive. Instead, think of the land not as burdened of the Rio Grande—to be “on the border”— is to ex- by its lack (or in some months, abundance) of water, perience sights and sounds and solitude unmatched but rather as blessed. It is this cycle of wet and dry, so elsewhere. unfamiliar to those from wetter climates, that allows Big Bend In the heart of Big Bend National Park lie the Chi- us our spectacular display of bluebonnets, yucca blos- sos Mountains, mountains born of fire during volcanic soms, and other spectacular wildflowers. Our water, eruptions and intrusions 40 - 60 million years ago and although paltry to some, is enough—for a desert. Any exposed by the incessant forces of erosion. As you as- more, and this place would be something very differ- cend the slopes of the Chisos, the thorns of the desert ent. give way to evergreens like pinyon pine and juniper, The one location where you can count on seeing and oak trees appear. Some surprising species living at water in Big Bend is along the Rio Grande—an oasis the very limit of their ranges can be found in the high- that’s been called the “lifeblood” of Big Bend. To drift er, moister areas—bigtooth maple, quaking aspen, and through the majestic canyons of the Rio Grande with Douglas fir. Although only 2% of the park is wood- your oars touching two countries at the same time is to land, this area draws people like a magnet—especially span time and space. Although the river, as the bound- in the summer—as daytime temperatures are usually ary between the United States and Mexico, looks like about 20 degrees cooler than by the river. Here, in this a solid line on the maps of the area, it is always chang- mountain island surrounded by a desert sea, one can ing, always going somewhere, and it takes us along on find flora and fauna unique to the Chihuahuan desert its current opening our eyes to a panorama of tower- and some unique to Big Bend. ing cliffs, brilliant bird life, and grassy vegas or beach- Whether hiking to gain a glimpse of the colima es. As you drift with the current, you may see both the warbler, a much sought after bird by birdwatchers expected and the unexpected—the black phoebe flit- which winters in Mexico but is only seen in Big Bend ting to and fro, a turtle - a Big Bend slider, perhaps— here in the U.S., or to get a coveted look at a mountain perched on a rock slipping with a quiet “plop” into the lion or black bear, or to see the towering displays of the water, swallows darting into their mud-nest “apart- century plants in bloom—whatever the reason, visitors ments”, or a peregrine falcon stooping to its prey. And to the Chisos are struck by the contrasts the mountains then, at night, the display of stars, connecting you to provide—prickly pear and pine tree side by side, snow- other parts of the world as well as to other worlds. covered cactus, and a waterfall flowing through a fea- A visit to Big Bend provides opportunities for us ture called the “Window” to the desert below. to escape to isolation seldom found in daily life—a It’s been said that if the Chisos Mountains are the chance to experience unfamiliar creatures and plants, heart of Big Bend, then the desert floor is its soul. an endless expanse of stark desert and mountain scen- Ninety-eight percent of the park is desert, and like the ery, and the vast space, heat, and silence that is the es- mountains, the desert is a land of contrasts—a place sence of the desert. Big Bend has been described as where you can touch 400 million year old rocks with harsh, isolated, lonely, parched, and desolate, but for one hand, and a day-old flower with the other, where some people, in all of these adjectives—in the remote- extremes of temperatures of 50 degrees or more be- ness and isolation—lies the fascination of the Chihua- tween dawn and mid-day are not uncommon. huan desert. From the earliest days of human occupa- Big Bend’s desert landscape itself is a study in con- tion, people have recognized the value of this rugged trasts—mesas, mountains, and dikes formed by vol- land that the Spanish called “El Despoblado,” and as a canic activity, limestone ridges and cliffs formed 100 result, the people and the land have had a long part- - 200 million years ago when shallow seas covered the nership here. 21 Paleontology By James Napoli
The state of Texas has three major Mesozoic fos- sil locations. The oldest remains, from the late Triassic 200 million years ago, are found in the Texas Panhan- dle, while the state’s center contains rocks dating to the Middle Cretaceous, 100 million years ago. However, the most extensive and spectacular Texan Mesozoic Skeletal diagram of Tyrannosaurus rex. The fossil deposits come from Big Bend National Park, famous theropod is known from many fossil from Cretaceous formations in that span a time pe- sites throughout North America, including riod of 35 million years. Big Bend. Big Bend’s Mesozoic fossils come from three rock formations. The oldest of these, the Boquillas Forma- Richardoestesia (maniraptoran dinosaurs similar to tion, is a shallow marine limestone approximately 100- Velociraptor), Stegoceras (a dome-headed dinosaur), 95 million years old that formed when Big Bend was Edmontonia (an armored dinosaur), and Agujacera- flooded by the Western Interior Seaway. One of the tops (another horned dinosaur). many fossils it has yielded is a 30 foot long sea-dwell- One of the most significant of the Agujas genera is ing reptile called Mosasaurus, closely related to mod- not a dinosaur, but a giant crocodile known as Deinosu- ern day varanid lizards such as the Komodo Dragon. chus riograndensis. Known mainly from two-meter long
Big Bend As the Western Interior Seaway retreated, the en- skulls, it is estimated to have reached an adult size near- vironment at Big Bend changed drastically. A warm ing 50 feet long and 5.5 metric tonnes in weight. Scars on and shallow marine environment gave way to humid Aguja dinosaur bones indicate that Deinosuchus preyed coastal forests and swamps. This change is reflected on them, likely using ambush tactics in a manner similar in the region’s stratigraphy - the Boquillas limestone to Nile crocodiles hunting zebras and wildebeest. transitions upward to the mudstones and sandstones Big Bend continued to dry in the Late Cretaceous. of the Agujas Formation, which was deposited 80- By 75-60 million years ago, the Western Interior Sea 75 million years ago. A relatively thin layer of marine was completely gone from North America, and a shale, the Pen Formation, separates the two. Over 70 semiarid floodplain environment had replaced the species have been discovered so far in this formation, forests and swamps that had occupied Big Bend. This including dinosaur remains. The most common Aguja environment is preserved in the mudstones of the Ja- dinosaur is the horned dinosaur Chasmosaurus mar- velina Formation. While its fossil yield does not match iscalensis, which was recovered in a bone bed of 10- that of the Aguja Formation, the Javelina Formation 15 individuals. Other dinosaur genera known from has afforded over 20 species of dinosaur that lived the Agujas Formation include Saurornitholestes and in the time directly preceding the catastrophic im- pact that caused their extinction. Many of the species found in this formation, such as two species of horned dinosaur Torosaurus (T. latus and T. utahensis) and the famous Tyrannosaurus rex, represent the largest mem- bers of their clade to ever evolve. Alamosaurus sanjuanensis, a long-necked sauro- pod dinosaur, is of particular significance to Big Bend and the Javelina Formation. While the first remains of the species were unearthed in New Mexico, they be- longed to an individual of relatively small size for a sauropod - approximately 15 meters long. In 1999, a graduate student at the University of Texas at Dallas stumbled across some protruding bones while explor- ing Big Bend. Excavation revealed a partial pelvis and ten articulated neck vertebrae, which were so massive that they had to be airlifted from the dig site by heli- Wikimedia Commons copter. The Big Bend Alamosaurus has been estimated Skull of Deinosuchus riograndensis, as exhibited at the American at 30 meters long, twice the size of the original New Museum of Natural History for 50 years. In life, the animal was 45 Mexico specimen. feet long and weighed approximately 4 metric tonnes. Not all of the giant fossils from the Javelina 24 Skeletal diagram of titanosaur sauropod Alamosaurus sanjuanensis. An individual, discovered in Big Bend in 1999, measured 100 feet long and weighed nearly 50 tonnes.
Formation belong to dinosaurs, however. In 1971, a graduate student and his professor from the University of Texas at Austin discovered long, hollow arm bones exposed in a dry creek bed. After examining them, they concluded that they were the wings of an enormous fly- ing pterosaur (a group of archosaurs closely related to Big Bend - but distinct from - dinosaurs). They named it Quetzal- coatlus nothropi, after the Aztec snake god Quetzalcoatl. Although no body was found, later searches found a series of complete, though much smaller, members of Hopkins Medicine the same species. The initial arm bones belong to an in- Quetzalcoatlus nothropi, the Big Bend pterosaur, with a giraffe dividual estimated to have a nearly 40 foot wingspan, and a human for scale. Quetzalcoatlus is the largest known making the Big Bend pterosaur the largest flying animal flying organism in the history of the Earth. known in the fossil record. Big Bend National Park has yielded an exception- al quantity and variety of fossil Mesozoic vertebrates, from marine reptiles to birdlike dinosaurs to immense soaring pterosaurs. The Aguja and Javelina Formations in particular have proved extremely valuable, giving an important insight into the composition of late Creta- ceous terrestrial ecosystems, and both have been stud- ied extensively. Few other locations have the ability to offer such a complete snapshot of life in the Mesozoic world. References: “Dinosaurs, Pterosaurs, and Crocodiles.” National Park Service. http://www.nps.gov/bibe/parknews/up- load/Dinosaur_SB.pdf “A Paleontological Paradise.” National Park Service. http://www.nps.gov/bibe/naturescience/dino.htm “What do fossils tell us about the history of Big Bend National Park?” University of Texas at Dallas. https://www.utdallas.edu/scimathed/resources/torch/ bb00_geo-bd.htm Sankey, Julia T. “Late Campanian Souther Di- nosaurs, Aguja Formation, Big Bend, Texas” Jour- nal of Paleontology. http://www.bioone.org/doi/ abs/10.1666/0022-3360%282001%29075%3C0208 UT Dallas %3ALCSDAF%3E2.0.CO%3B2 Stratigraphic column of Big Bend, showing “Texas Cretaceous Dinosaurs: Big Bend Country extensive unconformity from the Paleozoic to Area.” Texas-Geology.com. http://www.texas-geol- the Lower Cretaceous. ogy.com/Texas%20Cretaceous%20Dinosaurs%20 Big%20Bend%20Country%20Area.html 25 To Marathon 39mi 63km Unpaved road 0.5mi Distance indicator Ruins Ranger station Gas station 0.8km (main roads) Picnic area Self-guiding trail S A 385 N T I A Primitive road 0.5mi Distance indicator Private land within Lodging and food Campground G O (four-wheel drive, 0.8km (other roads) park boundary high-clearance Entrance Please observe land owner’s Restaurant Primitive campsite vehicles only) rights. 5mi Trail Rapids Store 3mi 5km 8km
M O Persimmon Gap Visitor Center U BLACK GAP N North 0 5 10 Kilometers T A Stillwell Store and RV Park Graytop I N 0 5 10 Miles 5502ft S 1677m WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA N YO To Alpine A N Do not use this map for backcountry 58mi 94km C OG hiking or trip planning. For safe travel D get detailed maps at visitor centers. Nine Point Draw 2627
NORTH 118 TEXAS ROSILLOS 23mi 37km (Harte Ranch) Dagger Mountain 23mi 37km Big Bend Stairway Mountain National Park
S I E R Camels Hump ROSILLOS MOUNTAINS R A 18mi DAGGER D 29km E Rosillos Peak L FLAT 5373ft C A 1638m B
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5.1mi R U R 8.2km E A l c i i d R a ra o T T n CORAZONES PEAKS R to O u e ty er Flat A 5319ft un ROSILLOS g c o g C a L S 1621m D A 1.9mi d RANCH R 3.1km G n (private land) A a O l d Hen Egg Mountain d l i 9mi 4963ft O r 14km 1513m e W
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SOLITARIO 7.7mi 26mi Adams G Grapevine e R 42km Ranch 12.4km Spring T E L d A E P PAINT GAP P Roys Peak D H n E ON V E E a HILLS d Vista C A N r IN Y O N a L G o E
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Slickrock Mountain T e n Hannold Draw C i T v Roys Peak e e le n A ap 3945ft ph o R r o y G 1202m n n M e a Government Area Phone Numbers C O E 26mi S Spring l N Dogie Mountain d E 43km
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E X d gh D TERLINGUA Rou 3750ft R Sunday, March 23 E TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN 1143m R E Visitor Center A T Road to the Basin not recommended I M (Historic District) Willow Tank D Maverick Mountain 13mi for trailers longer than 20 feet and Park Headquarters N 17mi 118 Castolon/ E 20km L U RVs over 24 feet because of sharp T 27km H Santa Elena o Ernst Basin C curves and steep grades. C 6mi Junction L rn A U 10km K-Bar B Entrance G i l A Morning: Emory Peak Trail l o N Panther Peak L E Chisos Basin E L O R This mountain trail goes past spectacular vistas and leads 5401ft G Pummel Peak C Maverick The Window d 1646m 6620ft r M 170 a Junction 4600ft e S to the highesto peak in the park. The last 25 feet requires a Lost Mine e U I R 1500m Lost Mine Peak 2018m E k E k Sam Nail Trail 7550ft R c R i E scrambler up an exposed rock face. Ranch S R T e 2301m R t r A v O k N To Presidio ree a Dugout Wells a C “A hike to the summit carries you through layers of YON w M AN S 50mi 80km C Ernst E T h ld Visitor Center N Nugent Casa Grande I o D CretaceousO formations embedded with an assortment of snail, P on Trail Tinaja Tule Mountain Mountain B u LAJITAS ny 4.1mi La Noria E Chisos Mountains Lodge 7325ft a 2.3mi A s clam, and oyster shell fossils; higher up only lava and extrusive Pine C 6.6km e L Barton Warnock 2233m 3.7km S
JU I N Pine N T Environmental Education Center BURRO MESA 20mi r rocks appear. Once upon the summit proper, you are standing IP Camp a C Toll J E Canyon i (Big Bend Ranch State Park) u R 32km l A n de on a cap of lava that cooled so quickly it appears glassy. Here, Mtn ip C R Burro Mesa e A M Emory Peak r Leon a Jave Pouroff C N E
jointing occurred, breakingli the rock into large vertical blocks. 7825ft a Y u n W n N a a O d g s 2384m y
12.8mi a h o N n M Once of these is the informally named ‘water tower,’ a remnant n o E i 20.6km Rice Tank
R Visitor Center S l A T r Homer M D of rock that remained after erosion weathered the adjacent I ra (closed in summer) Boquillas R g E e il Twisted Canyon A T Wilson H n T i 4.5mi N N r G rock away.” — E. Dan Klepper (“100 Classic Hikes in Texas”) Ranch OU Shoe Trail O S p U U Big Bend 7.2km Y S I Robbers N L N A Luna's Jacal Chimneys West Tunnel B A n Candelilla Sotol Vista I N S Roost O C I A n Q S T s T Rio Grande A ey N e UILL Ocotillo Grove n U l M E Peña im Overlook Dodson T O h in ra nta Lo G Overlook MADERAS MountainEvening: WindowC View Trail k il M Mou op) 5.3mi 4mi D o E ree ter Chilicotal Mountain C Ou 8.5km 6km Boquillas Canyon X m il ( 4108ft S Terlingua Abajo Tra I a After eating dinner, we will head to the 0.3-mile Window 1252m Overlook l S C T 1.9mi
e O DEL CARMEN O A A S 3.1km v I T View Trail, which offers great views of The Window.i 22mi Goat 1.5mi BOQUILLAS E r H S D 35km Mountain 2.4km Daniels DEL CARMEN Sunset is at 8:05pm. C lue ic Glenn B n Ranch e PROTECTED AREA S c Spring A N Santa Elena S Hot Rio Grande TA E L Canyon Trail ll BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Springs E N e Rock A w Village x C Santa Elena Canyon a Mule Ears Viewpoint (Store open all year) Slide A M N Chisos Basin Y O N Overlook s 9.6mi TUFF s d 5401ft 1646m o Elephant Tusk a Gravel Pit R Mule Ears o 15.5km CANYON 5249ft R ) 8mi d 1850ft Spring 1600m p e 13km a in 564m Santa Elena Canyon G ta La Clocha in Dominguez Mountain ck a River Access Cerro Castellan la m Mule Ears Peaks 5156ft B ot 6.8mi (raft/canoe take-out) 3293ft (n East 3881ft 1572m 10.9km d 1004m 1193m Talley Mountain oa Cottonwood R SAN VICENTE 3765ft
Castolon Visitor Center Elephant 1148m r r e e (closed in summer) v Tusk i iv R R (Store open all year) 8.5mi c SANTA D i 2169ft o 13.7km n ELENA 661m m ce i n S g Fresno d u n Buenos e a z 4.5mi d il Aires R Triangulation Station Mountain ive 7.2km W r R S Mariscal oad 3143ft p W r e 953m i Mine e n d s g t n
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Johnson 9.7km O T 3932ft Ranch 1199m Y S E Woodsons N A A N
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UN SANTA ELENA CANYON PROTECTED AREA National ParITk Service E D Rio Grande Village STATE V S Talley After hiking the Pinnacles Trail for 3.5 miles, the Emory Peak Trail proper splits off as a 1-mile spur. L I 1850ft 564m A C C I S E A R N M T
O E A MEXIC Tight Squeeze U A 29 IL U IHUAH H H A C O C
16 The Big Bend Paisano Wildlife of Big Bend By Jonah Berkowitz
There are 4 chief communities of vegetation (bi- omes) in Big Bend:
1. Chihuahuan Desert scrub: Occupies the largest proportion of the park, and is characterized by creo- sotebush as well as yucca, agave, and candelilla (used for wax production in the early 1900s). The desert bursts into spectacular bloom twice a year, with the annual monsoon season in late summer and again dur- ing the spring after minimal winter precipitation. The spring will feature the cactus, A stand of giant dagger yuccas, unique to yucca, and ocotillo blooms. the Big Bend area; they can reach a height Cactuses represent an espe- of 25 feet. Yuccas are closely related to lilies cially good adaptation to the and are ubiquitous in the southwest. Native desert’s harsh living condi- Americans utilized the entire plant, from the
Big Bend tions, growing with no leaves roots to the fruit, for everything from basket and sharp protective spines. making fibers to tequila production. Big Bend hosts the greatest diversity of cactuses of any still common, but not in its previous grandeur. National Park; look for ev- 3. Pinyon-juniper-oak woodland: Occupies most erything from pricklypear of the Chizos mountain slopes, interspersing with to pineapple and strawberry grasslands at around 3500 ft. and becoming denser cacti. Despite their extreme- at greater heights. ly spiny bases, agaves are 4. Ponderosa pine-Douglas fir-Arizona cypress not cactuses because they forest: Occupies the upper reaches of the Chizos have leaves. Some agaves are mountains. This biome is not particularly common known as century plants be- in Big Bend and is only found near peaks where ideal cause it takes them 100 years soil content and moisture exist. It is greatly endan- to reach maturity and flower. gered by current global warming and drought. Pon- Sotol resembles the agaves but has When agaves reach maturity, derosas have a wonderful vanilla, cinnamon smell so flattened, barbed leaves at its base. they die and the next gen- you’ll know if they are nearby. eration sprouts from around the dead one, so look out for Animals agaves in circular groups! Because of its various biomes, Big Bend is host The lechuguilla agave is to a fantastic diversity of animal life. For example, at unique to the Chihuahuan least 450 bird species inhabit—or migrate through— Desert, and was heavily used the park, more than in any other National Park. Black by Native Americans, espe- and turkey vultures are common, often mistaken for cially for making soap. golden eagles and several other large hawks which 2. Desert Grassland: Oc- are also present. Peregrine falcons thrive in the high cupies mid-level elevations cliffs of the Chisos Mountains and Rio Grande. Rep- (3000ft-5000ft); low areas of tiles are common in Big Bend, and include 31 snake the high mountains or the species and 22 lizard species. Rattlesnakes, bull- The ocotillo in bloom. high areas of low mountains snakes and patchnose snakes are common. Lizards Chinograss and stotol are the play an important role in keeping insect populations 2 dominant species, although overgrazing has heavily under control, while they themselves are an impor- altered grass diversity; invasive species like Bermuda tant food source for birds. The greater roadrunner, are now common. Chinograss used to cover the hills a type of cuckoo that feeds on lizards, can often be of Big Bend country but became the primary food seen racing down roads in front of cars before jump- source for settlers, tradesmen and their livestock. It is ing off into the brush. Collard and leopard lizards 30 Creosote bush. This shrub is characteristic to the desert floor; it grows very slowly, and can take a decade to reach a height of a couple feet. In addition, its circle of roots excretes a substance that is poisonous to other plants, so that it can protect all the available water Greater Earless Lizard. Males are generally larger with more vivid for itself. colorations. Big Bend
can measure over a foot in length, and are known to England and Europe for gloves and hairbrushes. feed on small snakes! The yucca night lizard inhabits Mountain lion sightings are rare at Big Bend, and dead, moist yucca plants for shelter. 90% occur along park roads. Animals such as prong- Mammal species found in Big Bend include 20 horn, prairie dogs, wild turkey, Mexican gray wolf, species of bats, including the Mexican Long-nosed and bighorn sheep were more common before the Bat, an endangered species key to cactus pollination. ranching and settlement in the Big Bend country. This species is only present in the United States at Big Bend, where there is a colony in the Chisos Moun- References: tains. Black bears, mountain lions, javelinas, and coy- Evans, Douglas B. Cactuses of Big Bend Nation- otes are also present. Black bears became extinct in al Park. Austin, TX: University of Texas, 1998. Print. the park but returned in the 1980s and exist in small McDougall, W. B., and Omer Edison. Sperry. numbers in the Chisos. Javelinas are found through- Plants of Big Bend National Park: With Illustrations out South and Central America, but are common in and Keys for Identification. Washington: U.S. Dept. Big Bend country. They resemble wild pigs but are of the Interior, National Park Service, 1951. Print. actually very different, possessing 3 toes instead of Sutton, Ann, Myron Sutton, and Ansel Adams. 4, a short tail, and a complex stomach system. They The American West; a Natural History. New York: are herbivores, relying on pricklypear pads during Random House, 1969. Print. the dry seasons, and herds of 10-20 are often seen United States. National Park Service. “Big Bend around campsites in Big Bend. They are known to National Park (U.S. National Park Service).” National be quite adept at intruding campers’ food supplies. Parks Service. U.S. Department of the Interior, n.d. In the early 1900s, their hides were shipped to New Web. Mar. 2014
The non-poisonous Red Racer is the most commonly seen snake in Big Bend. You might see it stretched across an entire road lane. 31 To Marathon 39mi 63km Unpaved road 0.5mi Distance indicator Ruins Ranger station Gas station 0.8km (main roads) Picnic area Self-guiding trail S A 385 N T I A Primitive road 0.5mi Distance indicator Private land within Lodging and food Campground G O (four-wheel drive, 0.8km (other roads) park boundary
high-clearance Entrance Please observe land owner’s Restaurant Primitive campsite vehicles only) rights. 5mi Trail Rapids Store 3mi 5km 8km
M O Persimmon Gap Visitor Center U BLACK GAP N North 0 5 10 Kilometers T A Stillwell Store and RV Park Graytop I N 0 5 10 Miles 5502ft S 1677m WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA N YO To Alpine A N Do not use this map for backcountry 58mi 94km C OG hiking or trip planning. For safe travel D get detailed maps at visitor centers. Nine Point Draw 2627
NORTH 118 TEXAS ROSILLOS 23mi 37km (Harte Ranch) Dagger Mountain 23mi 37km Big Bend Stairway Mountain National Park
S I E R Camels Hump ROSILLOS MOUNTAINS R A 18mi DAGGER D 29km E Rosillos Peak L FLAT 5373ft C A 1638m B
A
L r L Aqua Fria Mountain S e O I Packsaddle E v
i Mountain M R
5.1mi R U R 8.2km E A l c i i d R a ra o T T n CORAZONES PEAKS R to O u e ty er Flat A 5319ft un ROSILLOS g c o g C a L S 1621m D A 1.9mi d RANCH R 3.1km G n (private land) A a O l d Hen Egg Mountain d l i 9mi 4963ft O r 14km 1513m e W
T Tuesday, March 25 O R R N o I L a Heath Canyon L d O
Terlingua Ranch LA LINDA e F CH L d RIST A
M T n
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TA G 18mi IN S S I o 29km E i
R R Fossil Bone R Exhibit A THE McKinney Spring
SOLITARIO 7.7mi 26mi Adams G Grapevine e R 42km Ranch 12.4km Spring T E L d A E P PAINT GAP P Roys Peak D H n E ON V E E a HILLS d Vista C A N r IN Y O N a L G o E
2.5mi R H Telephone
4.0km s I o l L l L Canyon l i Paint Gap i S i a
Croton Peak R H r
Slickrock Mountain T e n Hannold Draw C i T v Roys Peak e e le n A ap 3945ft ph o R r o y G 1202m n n M e a Government C O E 26mi S Spring l N Dogie Mountain d E 43km
T Croton Spring 10mi O
r A 16km 3mi e T O
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5km S R C
n I o S BLACK MESA STUDY BUTTE/ u Basin Junction
R Panther Junction a I
E X d gh D TERLINGUA Rou 3750ft R E TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN 1143m R E Visitor Center A T Road to the Basin not recommended I M (Historic District) Willow Tank D Maverick Mountain 13mi for trailers longer than 20 feet and Park Headquarters N 17mi 118 Castolon/ E 20km L U RVs over 24 feet because of sharp T 27km H Santa Elena o Ernst Basin C curves and steep grades. C 6mi Junction L rn A U 10km K-Bar B Entrance G i l A l o N Panther Peak L E Chisos Basin E L O R 5401ft G Pummel Peak C Maverick The Window d 1646m 6620ft r M 170 a Junction 4600ft e S o Lost Mine e U I R 1500m Lost Mine Peak 2018m E k E k Sam Nail Trail 7550ft R c R i E r Ranch S R T e 2301m R t r A v O k N To Presidio ree a Dugout Wells a C YON w M AN S 50mi 80km C Ernst E T h ld Visitor Center N Nugent Casa Grande I o D O P on Trail Tinaja Tule Mountain Mountain B u LAJITAS ny 4.1mi La Noria E Chisos Mountains Lodge 7325ft a 2.3mi A s Pine C 6.6km e L Barton Warnock 2233m S 3.7km JU I N Pine N T Environmental Education Center BURRO MESA 20mi r IP Camp a C Toll J E Canyon i (Big Bend Ranch State Park) u R 32km l A n de Mtn ip C R Burro Mesa e A M Emory Peak r Leon a Jave Pouroff C N E
li 7825ft a Y u n W n N a a O d g s 2384m y
12.8mi a h o N n M n o E i 20.6km Rice Tank
R Visitor Center S l A T r Homer M D I ra (closed in summer) Boquillas R g E e il Twisted Canyon A T Wilson H n T i 4.5mi N N r G Ranch OU Shoe Trail O S p U U 7.2km Y S I Robbers N L N A Luna's Jacal Chimneys West Tunnel B A n Candelilla Sotol Vista I N S Roost O C I A n Q S T s T Rio Grande A ey N e UILL Ocotillo Grove n U l M E Peña im Overlook Dodson T O h in ra nta Lo G Overlook MADERAS Mountain C k il M Mou op) 5.3mi 4mi D o E ree ter Chilicotal Mountain C Ou 8.5km 6km Boquillas Canyon X m il ( 4108ft S Terlingua Abajo Tra I a 1252m Overlook l S C T 1.9mi
e O DEL CARMEN O A A S 3.1km v I T Morning: Lost Mine Trail i Goat BOQUILLAS 22mi 1.5mi E r H S D 35km Mountain 2.4km Daniels DEL CARMEN C Big Bend lue ic Glenn B n Ranch e PROTECTED AREA S c Spring A N Santa Elena S Hot Rio Grande TA E L Canyon Trail ll BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Springs EarlyE N Spanish explorers of the Southwest discoverede and developed many mines. That Rock A w Village x C Santa Elena Canyon a Mule Ears Viewpoint (Store open all year) Slide A M N Y O N s Overlook s 9.6mi we know of, no mine exists here today,TUFF but legendo tells of a rich mineral deposit,Elephant kept Tusk so d Gravel Pit a R Mule Ears o 15.5km CANYON 5249ft R ) 8mi d 1850ft Spring 1600m p e 13km a in 564m Santa Elena Canyon G ta La Clocha in secret that those who worked the mines were prisoners, blindfolded onDominguez their Mountain way in and ck a River Access Cerro Castellan la m Mule Ears Peaks 5156ft B ot 6.8mi (raft/canoe take-out) 3293ft (n East 3881ft 1572m 10.9km d 1004m 1193m Talley Mountain oa Cottonwood R SAN VICENTE out each day. The trail is moderately strenuous and has beautiful views. 3765ft
Castolon Visitor Center Elephant 1148m r r e e (closed in summer) v Tusk i iv R R (Store open all year) 8.5mi c SANTA D i 2169ft o 13.7km n ELENA 661m m ce i n S Afternoon: Terlingua Ghost Town and Barton g Fresno d u n Buenos e a z 4.5mi d il Aires R Triangulation Station Mountain ive 7.2km W r R S Mariscal oad 3143ft p W r e 953m i Mine Warnock Environmental Educatione Center n d s g t n
6.8mi T a
r r
a 10.9km M i
l G C
Rio 2.2mi A 3.5km io E At Terlingua, we will walk around and explore the old ghost town. The Environmental R R R I R S C O 1.4mi A
2.3km S Education Center has self-guided tours and a two-acre desert garden. L
Dominguez I E 27.5mi Black Dike Trailhead Solis R 44.3km M D G R ra O E nd A L e U
N
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A Loop Jewels I D Afternoon: Grapevine Hills Trail N V Gauging Camp E Camp E
Station I 6.0mi N N
Johnson 9.7km O T 3932ft Ranch 1199m Y S E Woodsons N A
This trail leads to a group of balanced rocks in the heart of the Grapevine Hills. N A
C
UN SANTA ELENA CANYON PROTECTED AREA IT E D Initially, the trail follows a gravel wash, then climbs steeply for the last quarter mile into STATE V S Talley L I A C C I S E the boulders. Grapevine Hills is an exposed laccolith, with many giant, rounded boulders A R N M T
O E A MEXIC Tight Squeeze U A that are tempting to climb, but watch for snakes. L I U IHUAH H H A C O C
40 Wednesday, March 26
Morning: Travel to Big Bend Ranch State Park After packing up camp we will drive 2 hours to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Morning: Closed Canyon Trail and Hoodoos Trail (B, C) The 0.7 mile (one-way) Closed Canyon trail leads to a narrow and deep slot canyon that cuts through the Colorado Mesa and the Rio Grande River. The canyon has been carved through welded tuff, a volcanic eruption of ash, liquid and gas. A small arroyo leads directly into the canyon. The Hoodoos Trail is an easy one mile loop that will take approximately one hour to complete. “Hoodoos” Big Bend is defined as a uniquely shaped rock that has been formed over time by weathering. Afternoon: Travel to Marfa, TX (D) We will drive 2 hours to Marfa and do our second round of grocery shopping. Afternoon: Travel to Guadalupe Mountains National Park (E) We will leave Texas and drive 2 hours 15 minutes to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. We will set up camp at Pine Springs Campground.
42 Guadalupe Thursday, March 27 Mountains
The Guadalupe Mountains are the exposed remains of an ancient barrier reef that lined the perimeter of the Permian basin in modern-day eastern New Mexico and western Texas. Here we will hike the Permian Reef Geology Trail and check out Carlsbad Caverns, a limestone cave network with some of the largest and deepest caves in the world. To Restrooms Whites City, NM Whites City, and Carlsbad, NM Picnic area Ranger station Gas station Backcountry campground Campground 62 180 TEXAS Gate locked at night NEW MEXICO 2 Miles Dry salt lake Hiking trail Horse and hiking trail 2 Kilometers 1 5013ft 1528m 1
Gate
Exhibits d a o r 0 e 0 McKittrick Canyon day use only c i v r Unpaved road Unpaved road (4-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicles only) e
S Permian Reef Geology Trail
Nickel Creek il No rt h Tra McKittrick Nature Trail Nature
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8631ft miles (15 9 2631m Cox Tank
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u Mountain B 4948ft 1508m Coyote Peak 6663ft 2031m S T A I N U N M O F Williams Ranch O F K E T O L A Quail Mountain 4962ft 1512m B R P X F Shumard Canyon Shumard
e I D G E t F R u F Cone Peak 5017ft 1529m T O o C U R WILDERNESS AREA
S I L L H N 6933ft 2113m P A T T E R S O Cutoff Mountain Cutoff
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GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS t u B TEXAS NEW MEXICO 3611ft 1101m
N SAND SAND DUNES DUNES GYPSUM GYPSUM I
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Get gate keys at visitor center
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46 Thursday, March 27
Carlsbad to Artesia 36mi Morning: Carlsbad Caverns 58km 12mi 285 19km 62 137 180 We will go on both self-guided and ranger-led tours 20mi Carlsbad 32km of the caves at Carlsbad Caverns National Park. LINCOLN “The basic tour through Carlsbad Cavern is the Big NATIONAL 9mi 14km Room route, a one-mile, self-guided underground walk FOREST 23mi 408 37km 137 around the perimeter of the largest room in the cave, the 11mi 16mi 18km 720 26km Visitor Big Room. An audio guide notably enhances the tour. Queen Malaga Center Taking approximately 1½ hours, this circular route passes White’s City CARLSBAD 285 CAVERNS many large and famous features including Bottomless Pit, 14mi NATIONAL 23km Giant Dome, Rock of Ages, and Painted Grotto. Highly PARK 16mi Malaga to Pecos 26km Dog Canyon McKittrick Canyon 69mi decorated and immense, the Big Room should be seen by NEW MEXICO 111km Dell 62 TEXAS all park visitors.” — National Park Service City GUADALUPE 180 19mi There are two ranger-led tours available: Kings MOUNTAINS 31km NATIONAL PARK Palace and Left Hand Tunnel. The Kings Palace tour 13mi 652 21km 21mi 9mi Headquarters 34km 14km Visitor Center is a 1.5-hour tour that goes to the deepest part of the 1437 Pine Springs To cave accessible to the public; it is the most popular 1576 14mi 23km Orla and Pecos 7mi 62 11km tour at Carlsbad Caverns. For the more adventerous, 180 54 0 10 20 Kilometers Pine Springs to Van Horn the moderately strenuous Left Hand Tunnel tour Pine Springs to El Paso 65mi 110mi (177km) 105km 0 10 20 Miles lasts 2 hours and “is a historic candle-lit lantern National Park Service tour through an undeveloped section of the cave on We will begin by driving from Pine Springs Campground to unpaved trails.” Carlsbad Caverns. After cave tours and lunch, we will head to Following the self-guided and ranger-led tours, we McKittrick Canyon for two hikes, followed by a return to camp. will eat lunch.
Afternoon: McKittrick Canyon Nature Trail “An intermittent seep lies hidden within junipers, shrubs, and grasses that cling to this tiny ecosystem. Trailside exhibits describe common plants, reference wildland fire, and explain Permian Reef geology. The trail is 0.9 miles round trip, is rated moderate, but takes less than one hour to complete.” — National Park Service
Afternoon: Permian Reef Geology Trail “For serious geology buffs, this trail has stop markers that can be used with a comprehensive geology guide, available at the park’s Headquarters Visitor Center. There are excellent views into McKittrick Canyon from the top of Wilderness Ridge.” — National Park Service Guadalupe Mountains Evening: The Pinery Trail “Travel the short 0.75 mile path to the ruins of the old Pinery Station, once a favored stop on the original 2,800 mile Butterfield Overland Mail Route. Trailside exhibits describe Chihuahuan desert vegetation.” — National Park Service
54 Peter Jones / National PArk Service Speleothems are cave formations that form when surface water flows through cracks in limestone bedrock, drips into a cave opening and eventually evaporates, leaving a small calcite deposit behind. Guadalupe Mountains Carlsbad Caverns By Allison Lawman
The limestone bedrock of the Guadalupe Moun- Once the inland sea dried up at the end of the tains in southeastern New Mexico hosts Carlsbad Permian period, the reef was buried under oth- Caverns, a series of 118 caves which are 317 m er sediment layers until it was uplifted 20 million deep and have a total length of over 48 km. The years ago when the Guadalupe Mountains started Caverns are among the largest and deepest in the forming. The abundant oil fields below the Capitan world, and have resulted from millions of years of limestone further indicate that the Delaware Basin chemical weathering. Unlike the simple dissolution was once a shallow marine environment. by acidic water that forms most caves, the process Most caves form when rainwater and carbon that formed Carlsbad Caverns is unique. dioxide from the atmosphere and soil combine to The vast Carlsbad Caverns cave network is create carbonic acid. As acidic water moves down situated within the 250 million year old Permian through soluble bedrock such as limestone, it en- Capitan limestone. During this time, the Delaware larges fractures and faults and develops under- Basin (which includes modern southeastern New ground channels and cavities. However, geologic Mexico) was closer to the equator and covered by evidence indicates that Carlsbad Caverns formed a large and deep (549 m, 1800 ft.) inland sea. Over in a different manner from the ‘bottom up.’ millions of years the accumulation and compaction Radioactive dating reveals that Carlsbad Cav- of now extinct calcareous sponges, algae, bryozo- erns was one of the last caves to be dissolved in ans, and other marine microorganisms eventually the Guadalupe Mountains. The last major uplift became the thick (229 m, 750 ft) Capitan limestone. associated with the formation of the Guadalupe 55 the elaborate speleothems (cave decorations) are some of the most impressive features of Carlsbad Caverns. Air and water containing carbonic acid could readily circulate through the chambers fol- lowing the formation of the natural entrance. When this acidic water reaches an open void in the cave it forms a drop and releases its carbon dioxide. The water becomes saturated with dissolved carbonate, so further evaporation causes a tiny amount of cal- cium carbonate to re-precipitate. Over time stalac- tites and stalagmites form on the cave ceiling and floor, and columns develop when these features meet. Other cave decorations include thin soda straws, sheet-like draperies, curved helectites, and bulbous protrusions called popcorn. Guided and self-guided tours allow visitors to experience the ornate beauty of Carlsbad Caverns. Occupying 8.2 acres, the Big Room is the largest Peter Jones / National Park Service cave chamber in North America. The King’s Pal- Sulfuric acid dissolution formed the elaborate 48 km cave network ace and the Left Hand Tunnel tours further allow of Carlsbad Caverns. The large chambers remained isolated from people to witness the elaborate speleothems and surface processes until approximately 1 million years ago when the gypsum deposits. King’s Palace goes through four natural entrance (above) formed. highly decorated chambers and down 253 meters (830 ft) into the deepest portion of the cave acces- Mountains occurred during the late Tertiary period sible to the public. 4-6 million years ago. During this period, sulfuric acid production occurred when hydrogen sulfide References: Burges, Paul. “Carlsbad Caverns National (H2S) rich water migrated upward from the under- lying oil-bearing strata and mixed with the oxygen Park.” The National Park Service, U.S. Department in groundwater according to the following reac- of the Interior. http://permanent.access.gpo.gov/ tion: gpo308/CaveICSPostersmall.pdf. + - “Carlsbad Caverns National Park.” National H2S + 2O2 → H2SO4 → H + HSO4 Very large chambers developed in the Capitan Geographic. http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/ limestone as sulfuric acid dissolved the carbonate travel/national-parks/carlsbad-caverns-national- park/. along fractures and faults. Gypsum (CaSO4•2H2O) is a byproduct of the sulfuric acid and calcium car- “Cave Geology: Dissolution and Decoration.” bonate reaction, and thus the extensive deposits of The National Park Service, U.S. Department of the this mineral in Carlsbad Caverns provide strong Interior. http://www.nps.gov/cave/planyourvisit/ evidence of this unique cave formation process. upload/cave_geology.pdf. Typical caves formed by carbonic acid dissolution “Geologic Formations.” The National Park Ser- are often characterized by the presence of lakes, wa- vice, U.S. Department of the Interior. http://www. Guadalupe Mountains terfalls, and streams within their interior. However, nps.gov/cave/naturescience/geologicformations. the lack of flowing streams through Carlsbad Cav- htm. erns further indicates that the sulfuric acid disso- “Kings Palace Tour.” The National Park Service, lution was not connected to surface processes. In U.S. Department of the Interior. http://www.nps. fact, Carlsbad Caverns remained isolated from the gov/cave/planyourvisit/kings_palace.htm. surface until approximately one million years ago “Surface Geology: From Living Reef to Desert when the top of the cave collapsed and created the Mountains.” The National Park Service, U.S. De- natural entrance. partment of the Interior. http://www.nps.gov/cave/ In addition to the immense size of the chambers, planyourvisit/upload/surface_geology.pdf.
56 Speleothems as Climate Proxies By Klara Zimmerman
Speleothems are cave deposits that form when secondary evaporation in caves. Ideally, if uncertain- groundwater drips into underground caverns and ties can be minimized, speleothems could serve as pa- precipitates small amounts of calcite, which can even- leo-temperature proxies for long time period recon- tually grow into large stalactite or stalagmite depos- structions. Due to the ambiguities mentioned, recent its. The drip formations that we will see on our trip speleothem climate research has focused on mini- to Carlsbad Caverns are not only beautiful, but also mizing uncertainty by measuring fluid inclusions that geologically interesting. The geochemical signatures, enable confirmation that the calcite was deposited in trace elements, and fluid inclusions in calcite cave for- equilibrium with the source drip water. mations can hold clues to past climates. New Mexico is one hotspot for speleothem cli- In order to understand the usefulness of speleo- mate research due to the prevalence of caves. Carls- thems, it is necessary to have a basic understanding bad Caverns, in particular, were the subject of a 2006 of how stable isotope analysis of oxygen is used in pa- study, which took a core of a giant calcite column that leoclimate reconstructions. Ocean water molecules contained a 164,000 year climate record. One advan- that contain 18O, a heavier isotope of oxygen, tend to tage of Carlsbad Caverns as a study site is that the only stay in the ocean whereas 16O, the lighter and more water entering the caves percolates directly from the prevalent isotope, evaporates more readily. Some 18O surface to groundwater to the cave, and moves a rela- containing water does evaporate, but once in the at- tively short distance before it precipitates, minimiz- mosphere, it condenses and precipitates more read- ing errors associated with surface evaporation. Using ily than the lighter 16O. Therefore, on its route from the core, Brook et al (2006) were able to correlate the evaporation at the ocean near the equators toward the inferred temperature record with other Southwestern poles, atmospheric water vapor becomes relatively speleothem records and even far away ice cores that enriched in 16O. Ambient temperature of an envi- documented climate variations through several glob- ronment can be deciphered from the relative 18O/16O al glaciations. They found that global warm intervals concentration in precipitation because water that were generally drier times for New Mexico, whereas
condenses at colder temperatures will be relatively wetter times were associated with global cooling. In Guadalupe Mountains depleted of 18O. sum, cave formations can link local climate to global Although the 18O/16O relationship, commonly climate events like glacial-interglacial cycles, and al- calculated as δ18O, is well-known in ice core paleo- though many uncertainties still exist, efforts are be- climatology, it has more recently been applied to spe- ing made to both increase precision of data collection leothems. There are many advantages of speleothem and continually monitor present-day cave precipita- climate reconstructions compared to other climate tion with local climate conditions to better under- proxies. First of all, they have the potential to provide stand the past. long duration records because stalagmite deposits can date from thousands to millions of years ago. In addi- References: tion, some speleothems can be accurately dated down Brook, George A., Brooks B. Ellwood, L. Bruce to the calendar year or even the month using Urani- Railsback, and James B. Cowart. “A 164 Ka Record um-Thorium decay. In some cases, speleothem lam- of Environmental Change in the American Southwest ina can even be counted like tree rings. Speleothems from a Carlsbad Cavern Speleothem.” Palaeogeog- preserve relatively pure calcium carbonate (usually as raphy, Palaeoclimatology, Palaeoecology237.2-4 calcite) precipitated from meteoric water and there- (2006): 483-507. fore are representative of surface environments. Fi- “Climate Change | Oxygen Isotope Analysis.” nally, the caverns where speleothems are found have Web. 23 Feb. 2014.
Morning: Smith Spring Trail (B) Begin this hike at the trailhead sign. Look for birds, mule deer, and elk as you walk this loop trail to the shady oasis of Smith Spring. Take a break here and enjoy the gurgling sounds of the tiny waterfall before continuing around to sunny Manzanita Spring. Scars from wildland fires of 1990 and 1993 are evident along the trail. The trail is rated moderate, with a round-trip distance of 2.3 miles. Allow one to two hours. — National Park Service Midday: Wyler Aerial Tramway (C) The Wyler Aerial Tramway at Franklin Mountains State Park features an aerial cable car situated on 195.742 acres of rugged mountain and rock formations on the east side of the Franklin Mountains. Driving the paved road that snakes up the east side of the Franklin Mountains from the intersection of McKinley and Alabama streets is half the fun. The visitor arrives at a parking area that sits at an elevation of 4,692 feet. The view of El Paso, to the east, is magnificent. Here visitors can admire the beauty of cacti gardens or watch the tramway gondolas take off. Visitors can purchase tickets at the tramway station to ride a gondola that will transport them to the top of Ranger Peak. The Swiss made gondolas travel on a 2,600 feet long, 1 3/8 inch diameter steel cable. While waiting to depart, the visitor can view part of the machinery and mechanism of the system through a window located on the south side of the base station. On the smooth ride to the top, the cabin attendant will describe the different cacti and rock formations along the way. Abundant wildlife, including reptiles, birds and insects, offer exciting viewing opportunities. The 4 minute ride soars above a vast canyon that is 240 feet deep in some places. From Ranger Peak, 5,632 feet above sea level, the visitor can enjoy the view of 7,000 square miles encompassing three states and two nations. The tramway ride is a memorable experience offering a vista of the vastness and stark beauty of the southwest. — Texas Parks and Wildlife White Sands Afternoon: White Sands National Monument (D/E) Potential activities include going on short hikes and sledding down the gypsum dunes. Hiking options include the Playa Trail, Dune Life Nature Trail, the Interdune Boardwalk, and the Backcountry Camping Trail. — National Park Service Evening: Oliver Lee Memorial State Park (F) Located on the western edge of the Sacramento Mountains, this state park is where we will camp for our last night. There are showers!
71 Wikimedia Commons The steeper, West escarpment of the Sacramento Mountains, dipping towards the Tularosa Basin. We will have a similar view when we stay at Oliver Lee Memorial State Park Sacramento Mountains By Jeff Baum
The Sacramento Mountains are located in south- intruded by igneous sills. These strata only outcrop ern New Mexico, directly east of Almogordo in towards the southern end of the range. An angular Otero County. The range trends 85 miles north- disconformity of approximately 10 degrees sepa- south. The range forms part of the eastern border rates these strata from the thick, overlying Paleozo- of the Tularosa Basin, which in turn is part of the ic sediments. These sediments are primarily marine Rio Grande rift valley. The mountains form a large carbonates deposited while the Permian sea cov- cuesta. The western escarpment has a total relief of ered the area. However, the Permian sea retreated more than a mile and irregular topography typical and advanced periodically, leading to depositions of the Basin and Range Province. The shallow, 1-2 of gypsum, shale and sandstone layers as well. degree dipping eastern slope extends 80 miles from the crest to the Pecos River; this broad expansive Formation of the mountains terrain resembles the structures typically found in Towards the end of the late Cretaceous, the the Great Plains Province. Sacramento Mountains region was part of a large anticline composed of Paleozoic sediments. This Stratigraphic history anticline stretched across today’s Tularosa Basin The strata of the Sacramento Mountains have a and San Andres Mountains. The Rio Grande Rift composite thickness of 8,000 feet and range from Zone led to the collapse of the anticline. The Tu- White Sands Precambrian metamorphic rock to Cretaceous larosa block dropped over 5000 feet and the San limestone. The exposed section consists entirely Andreas and Sacramento Mountains were uplifted of Paleozoic rocks and has an average thickness of along normal fault zones. The Tularosa Basin has no 5,000 feet. The Precambrian strata are slightly meta- drainage outlet; all of the sediment eroded from the morphosed shales, siltstones, and quartzites that are Sacramento and San Andres Mountains is deposited 86 this water is removed from the system by contribution of ground water recharge pack, which is predicted by climate models, evaporation in mountain streams and by from high-altitude precipitation to regional will reduce the amount of ground water vegetation that extracts water from the aquifers to the west. However, ephemeral that is recharged by snowmelt. Large sum- shallow perched aquifers. Ground water mountain streams on the western slopes mer storm events associated with the North in the high mountains is also stored in of the Sacramento Mountains certainly American monsoon and remnant hurricane soils, alluvium, fractures, and pores that provide some recharge to regional aquifers disturbances may become a more impor- are not directly connected to these regional in the Tularosa Basin. The New Mexico tant source of ground water recharge. But fracture systems. These different areas Bureau of Geology is currently conducting this in turn means that these aquifers may where water is stored have a direct effect a similar hydrogeology study in this area. rely on such climatic events to maintain on where vegetation can extract water, and or increase their long-term productivity. therefore on how tree thinning and other When and Under What Clearly, we need a better understanding land management practices might affect Conditions Does Ground of how ongoing climate change will the local hydrology. For instance, trees Water Recharge Occur? ultimately affect regional weather patterns growing above a shallow perched aquifer like our summer monsoons. may derive their water directly from that Results from this regional study clearly Artificial recharge techniques, where aquifer, whereas trees growing above a indicate that most ground water originates surface water runoff in the mountains deep aquifer derive their moisture primar- as high-altitude snowmelt. However, under is injected and stored in the aquifer ily from unsaturated soils and fractured certain conditions, summer precipitation system, may become necessary to sustain bedrock. can contribute significantly to the regional down-gradient ground water resources. In areas to the south and east, where ground water systems. Above-average Knowledge gained from this regional-scale the Yeso Formation is not exposed at the rainfall in the summers of 2006 and 2008 hydrogeology study can be very useful in surface, most ground water comes from significantly increased water levels in most identifying areas that would be sufficient the aquifer system in the high mountains, wells being monitored in the study area. for storing this water in the subsurface. and very little surface recharge occurs. August 2006 and July 2008 were the Estimates are that as much as 22 percent wettest months recorded in Cloudcroft in The Sacramento Mountains of high-altitude precipitation goes to the last 100 years. In 2006 the unusually Watershed Study: Can We wet monsoon season was characterized by recharge adjacent regional aquifers to the Increase Our Water Supply by east and south, the directions of regional frequent thunderstorms. In 2008 nearly dip. Age-dating data indicate that it may half of the 13 inches of rain that fell in Thinning Forests? take as long as 1,300 years for ground Cloudcroft in July fell within two days as Thinning trees is a forest restoration water to flow from Mayhill to the eastern a remnant disturbance of Hurricane Dolly technique that is being used to improve portion of the Pecos Slope, toward Hope, passed over the area. wildlife habitat and reduce fire danger in Artesia, and Roswell. Ground water flow- This observation has important implica- the Sacramento Mountains. This restora- ing to the east ultimately makes its way to tions on how this hydrologic system may tion technique is also being studied to the ground water system in the Roswell respond to climate change in the near determine its potential for increasing the Artesian Basin. Less is known about the future. A decrease in snowfall and snow- ground water and surface water supply.
Cross section of the Sacramento Mountains from west to east, showing the steep west-facing slope and the broader, more shallow east-facing slope. Much of the ground water moves eastward toward the Pecos River and the Roswell Artesian Basin.
New Mexico Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources innew the mexico basin. During earth mattersthe Pleistocene Ice Age, the re- actually 3increase groundwater levels in the Sacra- winter 2011 gion was significantly cooler and wetter; the basin mento Mountains region. was covered by Lake Otero. The water that drained from the San Andreas and Sacramento Mountains References: was rich in gypsum and other salts, so gypsum ac- Newton, Tallon. New Mexico Bureau of Geology cumulated in the basin. The lake eventually dried and Mineral Resources. “The Sacramento Moun- up, leaving behind the massive gypsum deposits tains Hydrogeology Study: How Geology and Cli- known as the White Sands National Monument. mate Affect our Water Resources” http://geoinfo. nmt.edu/publications/periodicals/earthmatters/11/ Hydrology emv11n1.pdf The Sacramento Mountains receives most of the Bowsher, Arthur L. Some Effects of Precam- precipitation in Southern New Mexico. This precip- brian Basement on the Development of the Sacra- itation seeps through fracture networks into shal- mento Mountains. New Mexico Geological Society. low carbonate aquifers that supply water to several https://nmgs.nmt.edu/publications/guidebooks/ indigenous highlands communities as well as much downloads/42/42_p0081_p0089.pdf of the industrial agriculture in the region. Otte Jr., Carel. Late Pennsylvanian and Early However, there has been a marked decrease in Permian Stratigraphy of the Northern Sacramen- groundwater levels and spring discharges over the to Mountains, Otero County, New Mexico. State past few decades attributed to both a change in cli- Bureau of Mines and Mineral Resources. https:// mate and land use. Most of the groundwater in the nmgs.nmt.edu/publications/guidebooks/down- Tularosa Basin originates as high-altitude snow- loads/42/42_p0081_p0089.pdf melt, but summer precipitation can contribute sig- Pray, Lloyd C. Outline of the Stratigraphy and nificantly to groundwater levels. Climate projec- Structure of the Sacramento Mountain Escarpment. tions project both less future snowfall and more Division of Geological Science, California Institute intense summer rainstorms. Thus, summer storms of Technology. http://nmgs.nmt.edu/publications/ will become a progressively more important source guidebooks/downloads/5/5_p0092_p0107.pdf White Sands of groundwater in the region. Pray, Llloyd C. Geology of the Sacramento As natural recharge rates continue to drop, arti- Mountains Escarpment, Otero County, New Mex- ficial recharge techniques may be required for hu- ico. 1961. State Bureau of Mines and Mineral man withdrawal in the future. One technique be- Resources. New Mexico Institute of Mining and ing discussed in New Mexico is tree thinning. Tree Technology. http://geoinfo.nmt.edu/publications/ thinning reduces the local canopy cover, increasing monographs/bulletins/downloads/35/Bulletin35. the amount of water that reaches the surface. Fur- pdf thermore, the removal of some vegetation prevents Roadside Geology of New Mexico, Halka Chron- excess water loss due to evapotranspiration. An on- ic, Roadside Geology Series. Mountain Press Pub- going study is analyzing whether tree thinning will lishing Company. Missoula 1987. 87