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© 2018 Weronika Gaudyn ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
© 2018 Weronika Gaudyn ALL RIGHTS RESERVED STUDY OF HAUTE COUTURE FASHION SHOWS AS PERFORMANCE ART A Thesis Presented to The Graduate Faculty of The University of Akron In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Arts Weronika Gaudyn December 2018 STUDY OF HAUTE COUTURE FASHION SHOWS AS PERFORMANCE ART Weronika Gaudyn Thesis Approved: Accepted: _________________________________ _________________________________ Advisor School Director Mr. James Slowiak Mr. Neil Sapienza _________________________________ _________________________________ Committee Member Dean of the College Ms. Lisa Lazar Linda Subich, Ph.D. _________________________________ _________________________________ Committee Member Dean of the Graduate School Sandra Stansbery-Buckland, Ph.D. Chand Midha, Ph.D. _________________________________ Date ii ABSTRACT Due to a change in purpose and structure of haute couture shows in the 1970s, the vision of couture shows as performance art was born. Through investigation of the elements of performance art, as well as its functions and characteristics, this study intends to determine how modern haute couture fashion shows relate to performance art and can operate under the definition of performance art. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank my committee––James Slowiak, Sandra Stansbery Buckland and Lisa Lazar for their time during the completion of this thesis. It is something that could not have been accomplished without your help. A special thank you to my loving family and friends for their constant support -
Should Magazines Sell Stuff? Church and State Issues Aside
Fashion. Beauty. Business. TOMMY FASHION TOUGH TUNE IN CHINA NIGHT The shuttering of JUN 2015 Tommy Hilfiger took All the winners, the Band of Outsiders No.1 his show on the road red carpet and the exemplifies the and opened his first after-party action at challenges young flagship in Beijing. the CFDA Awards. designers face. Markets p. 26 Eye p. 35 Markets p. 24 HARD SELL Should magazines sell stuff? Church and State issues aside, “Times are tough for independent labels.” independent labels.” for tough “Times are it hasn’t worked yet. Will it ever? KRIS VAN ASSCHE KRIS VAN Hard Sell US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley The EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice Features GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera Hard Sell MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS 46 As newsstand and EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark advertising revenues plunge, NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz magazine companies are DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia desperately seeking new SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE revenue streams. Does the SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski answer reside in magazine BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani e-commerce? BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen The Lone Ranger ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. -
1 United States District Court Southern
Case 1:20-cv-07255 Document 1 Filed 09/04/20 Page 1 of 87 UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW YORK ------------------------------------------------------------------X 20-cv-7255 ABBY CHAMPION, ALANNA ARRINGTON, AMBAR CRISTAL ZARZUELA MONTERO, ANNA CLEVELAND, ANOK YAI, BLANCA PADILLA, BRIONKA HALBERT, BROOKE ROBINSON, CALLUM STODDART, CARA TAYLOR, CLAIRE DELOZIER, CYNTHIA ARREBOLA, DAMIEN MEDINA, DYLAN CHRISTENSEN, EMILY REBECCA HILL p/k/a EMI RED, ENIOLA ABIORO, GEORGINA GRENVILLE, GRACE ELIZABETH HARRY CABE p/k/a GRACE ELIZABETH, GRACE HARTZEL, HIANDRA MARTINEZ, JAL BUI, JOÃO KNORR, KRISTIN LILJA SIGURDARDOTTIR p/k/a KRISTIN LILJA, LEONA WALTON p/k/a BINX WALTON, LINEISY MONTERO, LUCIA LOPEZ AYERDI p/k/a LUCIA LOPEZ, LUISANA GONZALEZ, MANUELA MILOQUI p/k/a MANU MILOQUI, MARIA VITORIA SILVA DE OLIVEIRA p/k/a MARIA VITORIA, MARIAM URUSHADZE p/k/a MARISHA URUSHADZE, MAUD HOEVELAKEN, MAYA GUNN, MYRTHE BOLT, RACHELLE HARRIS, ROCIO MARCONI, SARA EIRUD, SELENA FORREST, SHUPING LI, TANG HE, UGBAD ABDI p/k/a UGBAD, VERA VAN ERP, VIKTORIIA PAVLOVA p/k/a ODETTE PAVLOVA, XIAOQIAN XU, Plaintiffs, COMPLAINT -Against- JURY DEMAND MODA OPERANDI, INC., ADVANCE PUBLICATIONS, INC. d/b/a CONDE NAST, ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS, INC. d/b/a CONDE NAST Defendants, ------------------------------------------------------------------X All plaintiffs, by their attorneys, EDWARD C. GREENBERG, LLC, for their complaint allege as follows: THE PARTIES 1 Case 1:20-cv-07255 Document 1 Filed 09/04/20 Page 2 of 87 1. Plaintiff ABBY CHAMPION (“CHAMPION”) is a professional model who resides in Los Angeles California, and works as a professional model in the State and County of New York. -
Alexander Wang
Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 Alexander Wang The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 The Row The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Christopher Kane J.W. Anderson Introducing the ricky drawstring 888.475.7674 ralphlauren.com The Ricky Sunglass ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE 800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com © 2015 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2015 DRIVEN BY DESIRE esteelauder.com NEW. PURE COLOR ENVY SHINE On Carolyn: Empowered Sculpt. Hydrate. Illuminate. NEW ORIGINAL HIGH-IMPACT CREME AND NEW SHINE FINISH Contents Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Alexander J.W. Wang The Row Anderson Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Chitose Christopher Proenza Abe Kane Schouler Six Covers Photographer Nigel Parry shot the designers for the cover story during a whirlwind global tour. “To be asked to photograph the covers for the launch of the new WWD weekly is a gift to any photographer,” he said. “I’m not saying it was easy — eight designers, six days, three continents — but the jet-lag was kept at bay by meeting such great talents. Thank you WWD!” Cover Story The 168 Fashion has long been obsessed with the new, the fresh, the unexpected, never more so than now. -
Fashion's Autumn/Winter 2014 Ad Campaigns | Financial Times
04/01/2020, 10:22 Page 1 of 1 Luxury goods Add to myFT Fashion’s autumn/winter 2014 ad campaigns A deconstruction of the industry’s ads for the season reveals a sombre economic mood Share Save David Hayes AUGUST 8 2014 Hemlines may once have been a cute way of monitoring the state of the economy – rather aptly, they are all over the place these days – but nothing gives a snapshot of global hard-currency health better than a flick through the September issues of the world’s glossiest fashion magazines. Landing on newsstands with a reassuringly weighty thud early this month, the current edition of US Vogue has more advertising than any other American fashion or lifestyle magazine, with a whopping 631 ad pages. Yet it is still down 4.5 per cent on last year’s Lady Gaga extravaganza of 665 pages – which in turn was down on the magazine’s peak of 727 pages of ads in 2007. The luxury sector may not have turned an economic corner – yet. And in fashion terms the mood is not exactly upbeat, either: think brown and black set against brutalist concrete architecture (Prada); corseted women hanging around in a drab hotel suite (Dior); and models trapped in a surrealist crazy golf course from hell, wearing equally disturbing knitwear (Kenzo). Yes, advertising matters, not only as a barometer of the spending trends of the fashion world, but also as a tone-setting exercise. The following images are how fashion should look this autumn/winter, straight from the designer’s eye, so take note. -
Large Print Guide
Large Print Guide You can download this document from www.manchesterartgallery.org Sponsored by While principally a fashion magazine, Vogue has never been just that. Since its first issue in 1916, it has assumed a central role on the cultural stage with a history spanning the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has reflected events shaping the nation and Vogue 100: A Century of Style has been organised by the world, while setting the agenda for style and fashion. the National Portrait Gallery, London in collaboration with Tracing the work of era-defining photographers, models, British Vogue as part of the magazine’s centenary celebrations. writers and designers, this exhibition moves through time from the most recent versions of Vogue back to the beginning of it all... 24 June – 30 October Free entrance A free audio guide is available at: bit.ly/vogue100audio Entrance wall: The publication Vogue 100: A Century of Style and a selection ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ Kate Moss of Vogue inspired merchandise is available in the Gallery Shop by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, June 2012 on the ground floor. For Vogue’s Olympics issue, Versace’s body-sculpting superwoman suit demanded ‘an epic pose and a spotlight’. Archival C-type print Photography is not permitted in this exhibition Courtesy of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Introduction — 3 FILM ROOM THE FUTURE OF FASHION Alexa Chung Drawn from the following films: dir. Jim Demuth, September 2015 OUCH! THAT’S BIG Anna Ewers HEAT WAVE Damaris Goddrie and Frederikke Sofie dir. -
Biannual Volume 1
(Barcodes same size) 8pt font Vol.1 FALL 2016 US $14.99 INTERNATIONAL 6.99 9pt font PRINTED INY ENGLAND Vol.1 FALL 2016 US $14.99 INTERNATIONAL 6.99 PRINTED IN ENGLAND FONTANA MILANO 1915 ` DRIES VAN NOTEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUERGEN TELLER BARNEYS.COM NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE FOR INSIDERFOR INSIDER FASHION FASHION ACCESS: ACCESS: THEWINDOW.BARNEYS.COM THEWINDOW.BARNEYS.COM TheImpression_New_Dim_Fall.indd 1 8/19/16 10:53TheImpression_New_Dim_Fall.indd AM 2 8/19/16 10:53 AM IMPRESSION_MJfw16_SEP.qxp_10x13 8/17/166:08PMPage2 marcjacobs.com DELIRIUM Christos Karantzolas 16 LIFE OF THE PARTY BFA 30 LUIGI & IANGO Kenneth Richard 42 CASTING CALL Stefanie Stein 73 LONE RIDER Patric Shaw 78 FULL STEAM THE NOTE Julia Comita 92 COVERS As the founder of an online zine who has spent the last two years inter- talk about his global fashion following viewing creative fashion luminaries, I’ve often been drawn into the discus- in an “American in Paris” (page 104). sion of the role of print in the digital age. And along the way have discovered Photographer Audrey Krawczyk was also AMERICAN IN PARIS that it is the story that shapes the medium and not the other way around. in Paris, where she captured the stark con- Veerle Windels 104 Certainly there are patterns of consumption, but in the world of fash- trasts of its streets and fashion in “Cutting ion imagery, the original jumping off point of innovation doesn’t come Corners” (page 110). from a group of low resolution pixels from a backlit screen, it comes Perhaps better than anyone in fashion, from the experience of a three dimensional object like the one you are creative director and image maker “Pascal holding in your hands. -
SOPHIA LATJUBA Her Passion of Life
MAGAZINE OF SENAYAN CITY winter 2017 Beautiful Young Mothers SABAI DIETER MORSCHEK MIKAILA PATRITZ YASMINE WILDBLOOD Winter Travel To Reykjavik SOPHIA LATJUBA HER PASSION OF LIFE A Celebration of Festive season in-Chief ED ITOR EKSEKUTIF Halina E-MAIL PROMOSI DAN IklaN E-mail: [email protected] Call Center: 021-7278 1000 DIterbItkaN OLEH Senayan City BEKERJA SAMA DENGAN MRA Media Special Project Division Wisma MRA Jl. TB. Simatupang HNALI A No.19 Cilandak Barat mark ETING dirECTOR SENAYAN citY Jakarta Selatan 12430 Tel: (021) 2765-1717/18 A Celebration Of Festive Seasons. Menjelang akhir tahun, sejumlah persiapan menyambut. Natal, Tahun Baru, dan Imlek TIM EDItorIAL adalah rangkaian perayaan yang ditunggu-tunggu hingga tahun Miranti M. Lemy Eddy Sofyan depan. Oleh sebab itu, kami menyajikan sejumlah artikel yang Agung C. Widi Insan Obi mengangkat berbagai event istimewa tersebut sebagai topik Firisa Ardianti Saffie Adjie Badas dalam edisi winter 2017 ini. Anda akan menemukan the latest Kiky Septika Anjani Iqbal trend untuk Cruise Collection dan rekomendasi kami tentang Aristya Rizky Badzlina Veby Citra gaya earthy tone untuk tahun 2018. Gusti Aditya Abiprasiasti Dalam edisi ini, sebagai cover, kami menampilkan iconic Bungbung Mangaraja Riza Adam Buchori telented figures yang juga merupakan ibu dan anak yang Hadi Cahyono berprestasi yang kisahnya juga dapat Anda simak dalam cover story. Simak juga laporan kami mengenai sejumlah new spots di Senayan City yang wajib Anda kunjungi, serta liputan mendalam dari perhelatan JFW 2018 yang diikuti oleh kisah sukses sejumlah Jakarta Fashion Week 2017. Ikuti kisah sukses COVER sejumlah profil tokoh desainer fashion yang kini tengah menjadi Model: Sophia Latjuba the talk of the town untuk referensi Anda. -
Vogue Italia Di Settembre: Le 100 Copertine
Leggi l'articolo su beautynews Vogue Italia di settembre: le 100 copertine Con il numero di settembre, come di consueto il più importante dell'anno, Vogue Italia presenta ai lettori un progetto unico e speciale: un numero da collezione con cento personaggi per cento copertine: modelle famose e attrici, artisti e persone della strada - tutte speciali, con la loro storia unica da raccontare. Vogue manda in edicola così ancora una volta un'edizione da collezione, in cui le copertine numerate diventano un’opera d’arte e un manifesto della moda per tutti, all’insegna della diversità. «Lo scorso aprile, quando abbiamo scelto di lasciare bianca la nostra copertina, eravamo convinti che il silenzio fosse un giusto messaggio di rispetto e pudore», scrive nel suo editoriale Emanuele Farneti, direttore di Vogue Italia. «Adesso invece, all’inizio di una nuova stagione per molti versi decisiva, pensiamo sia il momento di parlare ad alta voce di bellezza e di speranza. Per la prima volta abbiamo scattato, e stampato, cento cover. Ciascuna di loro è dedicata a una protagonista diversa: per età, aspetto fisico, colore della pelle. È il ritratto di una comunità che, pur nel giusto rispetto delle restrizioni di distanze e tempi imposte dal contesto, dopo aver diligentemente atteso ora si ritrova e ricomincia». Ci sono supermodel iconiche: Cindy Crawford, Pat Cleveland, Patti Hansen, Donna Jordan. Le top del momento: Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Julia Nobis, Freja Beha Erichsen, Sasha Pivovarova, Irina Shayk, Alek Wek, Raquel Zimmermann, Saskia De Brauw, Rebecca Longendyke. Instagram star come Emily Ratajkowski e Paloma Elsesser. -
Unfold Your Talent VIA Film & Transmedia
Unfold your talent VIA University College VIA Film & Transmedia Research & Development centre FASHION FILM & TRANSMEDIA – an anthology of knowledge and practice Fashion Film & Transmedia – an anthology of knowledge and practice Editing by SPOTT trends & business Fashion Film & Transmedia VIA University College 4 Colophon Title Fashion Film & Transmedia - An Anthology of Knowledge and Practice Published by VIA Film & Transmedia Research & Development Centre Authors Rina Hansen Marie Schuller Paloma Díaz Soloaga Janet De Nardis Max Giovagnoli Stine Johansen Anja Bisgaard Gaede Sara Ingemann Holm-Nielsen Ellen Riis Editing SPOTT trends & business Proof reading Anders M. Nielsen Graphic design Inge Lynggaard Hansen Cover image Liu Zhao and Dao Chenyuan. Beijing Film Academy Copyright © VIA Film & transmedia Research & Development Centre No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or scanning, or otherwise without prior permission by the publisher. Print GP Tryk Printing samples 1,000 ISBN 978-87-999334-0-2 Publishing year 2017 First edition Create Converge Brand Dansk Bomuldskompagni/Photo by Isabel Ahlgren Deleuran, VIA Film & Transmedia Photo by Camilla Gammelgaard Kristensen, Amalie H. Bredahl, Helene Sophie Højgaard Eckholdt, Ditte Marie Rothemejer and Joanna Mikkelsen, VIA Film & Transmedia Fashion Film & Transmedia VIA University College 7 Table of contents 9 An Introduction to the Anthology on Fashion Film & Transmedia Louis Thonsgaard, Director of Studies and Research, VIA Film & Transmedia 10 Editor’s Letter by SPOTT trends & business 11 Contributors 17 The Development in Luxury Fashion Brands’ Web Presence and Use of Interactive Media Rina Hansen, Ph.D, Copenhagen Business School, marketing and omnichannel director at By Malene Birger. -
L'uomo Spostato a Settembre?
EDITORIALE L’UOMO SPOSTATO A SETTEMBRE? MEGLIO PER SCELTA CHE PER OBBLIGO di David Pambianco anca ancora la prova, ma gli indizi cominciano a essere importanti. E il colpe- vole si nasconde elegantemente dietro all’acronimo co-ed, la sigla che indica Mle scuole britanniche con classi miste maschietti e fanciulle. Nella moda, è diventato l’identificativo della sfilata unificata “uomo-donna’, una tendenza che due anni fa è arrivata come un ciclone sul sistema delle passerelle mondiali, e ha imposto, in un tempo estremamente rapido, un ripensamento dell’intera catena di produzione e proposizione del prodotto. Alla base del cambiamento c’è l’azzeramento dei tempi e degli spazi imposto da inter- net e social network, con la conseguenza che tutte le iniziative, e in particolar modo gli eventi, diventano “consumer”. In sostanza, ogni show diventa “lo” show del brand, ed è irrilevante la tipologia di prodotto presentata (uomo, donna o bambino). Questa seg- mentazione, che aveva senso soprattutto per il trade, perde progressivamente significato. Tutto ciò ha comportato una situazione di evidente difficoltà per le manifestazioni dedi- cate alla moda maschile. I dati degli eventi estivi sull’asse Firenze-Milano sono piuttosto emblematici. Pitti Immagine Uomo ha registrato un tangibile calo. Discorso simile per l’edizione di metà giugno di White. I numeri della fiera milanese riflettono ciò che è stata la relativa Milano Fashion Week, per la quale le defezioni e i rimandi (a settembre, quando le passerelle si accoppieranno con la donna) si sono concretizzati in un calenda- rio in versione long week end. Alla luce di questi numeri, è stato facile interpretare le parole di Raffaello Napoleone, AD di Pitti Immagine, quando, in un evento a metà giugno, ha espresso ad alta voce la ri- flessione sulla necessità di un “aggiornamento” dello scacchiere degli eventi. -
Stylist.Fr Laplace Statement
Beauté Beauté Beauté Beauté Beauté. Et gratuit quand la personnalité prend toute N°065 16 OCTOBRe 2014 STYLIST.FR laplace statement Aujourd’hui, être jolie ou taper cent mots par minute à la machine, c’est bien mais ce n’est plus assez. Bienvenue dans l’ère du nouveau culte de la personnalité (merci aux subprimes, à la guerre du Golfe et à ma mère). Photographe Nick Haymes - Par Julie Levoyer ans mon école, à 13 ans, si tu n’avais La douceur d’une forme 60’s à la Belle de jour, ET À PARTAGER pas un agenda « Top Model », tu avais c’est Arnaud. » Acteur à l’improviste, casté pour Nous, les perfusés au digital, drogués du raté ta vie. Sur le mien, il y avait Linda Vandal de Hélier Cisterne à la faveur d’un training fact checking, ne tolérant pas la crise de 2007 Evangelista. Sur ceux de mes copines, de boxe, Zinedine Benchenine se coule devant après une enfance de tous les possibles (merci Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell ou la caméra pour jouer comme il respire. Dans la Françoise Dolto). « Vous avez des anticorps D(gros statement) Werner Schreyer. C’était 1995, musique de Chassol, ses proches reconnaissent anti-pub et vous vous méfiez des égéries », la pré-puberté, l’époque des tops ne quittant ici sa rigueur stakhanoviste et là son amour des traduit Eric Briones, planneur stratégique pas leur lit pour moins de 10 000 $, la vie simple, films d’horreur. Il paraît que lorsqu’on s’y connaît, et fondateur de darkplanneur.com.