FriendsFriends ofof MoroccoMorocco
Winter 2004 www.friendsofmorocco.org
Ijtimaa 2004 Coincides with NPCA National Conference in Chicago in internationally-minded persons with backgrounds in By Tim Resch, FOM President (Ouezzane/Rabat 70-74) grassroots development. For conference information and online registration, visit www.rpcv2004.org. Register before Plan now to attend the 2004 Friends of Morocco Ijtimaa March 31 to take advantage of discounted registration fees. in Chicago August 5 to 8, 2004 coinciding with the National The conference will take place in the historic Palmer house Peace Corps Association (NPCA) National Conference. The Hilton Hotel in the heart of downtown Chicago. Other events Chicago Area Peace Corps Association (CAPCA) in will take place nearby at the parks along the lakefront. There conjunction with the NPCA, will host the four-day is a discounted conference rate for the hotel and a very conference. The conference theme is “Peace Corps 2004: inexpensive youth hostel just 5 blocks away. Celebrating a Legacy of Service”. In keeping with the theme, Conference Chair is our very own Trina Janes (Sidi Addi/Azrou CAPCA will be inviting leaders in peace and advocacy to 91-93)
Page 2 Friends of Morocco Ash Khabarna? Editor’s note: I sincerely apologize for 7685. Www.Tanya.Labriny.pcragent.com Sarah Jernigan—Kelaa M'gouna 95-97 any errors in the last installment of email:
Four Moroccan women (and one phase of their training program involved economic and social development of Syrian) participating in a two-week bringing a small group of leaders to rural women, and organizes literacy leadership training program for Arab Washington D.C. for two weeks of programs. women organized by the Arab training. The second phase involves on Houria Didi, Oujda Women’s Council Research and the ground training for a larger group of Ms. Didi is a lawyer. She is Vice Education Fund (AWCREF) and funded leaders in each Arab country. President of Ichraq, an organization by United States Department of State The training program in Washington that works with rural and urban women Office of Citizens Exchange (OCE) met D.C. (Phase I) included visits to women’s on a wide range of economic and Friends of Morocco members in the DC NGOs and other organizations that run social development projects, including area and got an opportunity to meet programs of interest to the training in the development of small and discuss Moroccan family law participants. It included a day of enterprises; campaigns to oppose changes at a reception held October "shadowing" where each participant violence against women; health 14, 2003 in the home of FOM spent a full day in an organization or a education and family planning. President, Tim Resch. center of her choice so she can see how Mariem Moussa, Tetouan The Arab Women’s Council they run their daily Ms. Moussa is a founding member and Research and Education Fund Inc. activities. Participants had an former president of the Association of (AWCREF) is a non- profit tax-exempt opportunity to interact with many Women’s Research for Development organization founded in 1983 to members of the Washington D.C. and Cooperation (AWRDC). The promote international understanding community, and to consider how to apply organization works to promote between Arabs and Americans through what they have learned to NGO women’s rights by conducting sponsorship and delivery of a variety of development and women’s vocational and literacy training cultural and educational programs empowerment in their own programs, and by providing support for throughout the United States and country. During Phase II, women from a victims of domestic violence. through cultural exchange programs wide variety of organizations in their Zhara Zaoui, Oujda with several countries in the Middle home community, will learn how to Ms. Zaoui is a lawyer. She has East. AWCREF’s cadre of network with each other, and form participated in various national and professional trainers have developed effective coalitions. international forums on human expertise in delivering interactive/ rights. She is co-founder and The participants from Morocco were: participatory training to Arab women in President of Oujda Ain-Alghazal Rkia Ait Dahman, Oujda four major areas: 1) leadership 2000. This NGO operates a center for Ms. Dahman is a board member of the training; 2) non-governmental Association Chouala for Education and battered women, and a legal literacy organization (NGO) development; 3) Culture (ACEC), Section Mrirt (near program. strategic planning; and 4) mediation Oujda.) The organization focuses on the and conflict resolution. The first
The Color of Henna at the Santa Fe Museum of International Folk Art
The Color of Henna exhibit will be at Drawn from a collection the Santa Fe Museum of International assembled and documented by Folk Art from December 14, 2003 to Annette Korolnik-Andersch and Marcel March 14, 2004. This will be the only Korolnik, the international exhibition venue in the U.S. for this exhibit. illuminate the influences that The exhibit showcases the textiles distinguish this unique textile tradition. that were produced and used in the southern-most mountains of Morocco. shown at left - headscarf circa 1930 These white and off-white wool blankets, scarves and wraps are finely woven and then painted with unique and mysterious designs using dyes from the henna plant. Once essential for weddings and religious celebration, these rare and beautiful cloths are no longer made or used. Friends of Morocco Page 5 American-Moroccan Institute
Founded in the wake of events of and wishes to revive in the modern AMI seeks to address the concerns of 11th and headquartered in New York context. the two nations on regional, national, City, the American-Moroccan Institute AMI’s primary objective is to build and international levels. Fundraising (AMI) was created with the hope of strong bridges of mutual appreciation campaigns are planned to provide for developing, fostering, and promoting and understanding between the people grants, fellowships, and research the sharing of educational and cultural of Morocco and America. The Institute stipends. A regularly published information between the Kingdom of aims at achieving these objectives magazine will keep the public and Morocco and the United States. through the dissemination of accurate, members aware of the evolution and A non-for-profit organization/think scientific, cultural and academic forward movement of AMI and its tank, AMI positions itself at the information regarding Morocco and the projects. crossroads of the dialogue between Moroccan community in North civilizations at a crucial moment in America. A key element of this task will Mokhtar Ghambou, President history when North Africa and the be the presentation of Moroccan culture American Moroccan Institute Middle East are in great need of in its multifaceted forms to North 132 Nassau Street, Suite 401 vectors of facilitated communication American audiences, institutions, and New York, NY 10038 with an ever changing American research centers. Contact Information: society. The further development of Tel: 212-227-9656 The Kingdom of Morocco has a academic exchange between American long history of cooperation and and Moroccan universities and
U.S. to Increase Development and Military Assistance to Morocco
The Secretary of State for Near work with you closely in the coming and political opportunities for all Eastern Affairs, during a visit to Rabat months to define ways to maximize our Moroccans," she said. Chamberlin said on October 28, 2003, announced the mutual benefit and further strengthen talks with Prime Minister Driss Jettou US intention to more than quadruple this relationship.” and several Moroccan officials were non-military assistance to Morocco. As a part of this commitment, the "fruitful" and allowed to "explore where Starting in the 2005 fiscal year, the US Agency for International the US government might best target Administration will propose to Development (USAID) announced the additional resources in the coming Congress to provide approximately launching of a five-year $30 million years." Job creation, housing credits, $40 million in assistance, a number (300 million Dhs) program to assist rural development and educational “we will look favorably to augmenting Morocco, particularly in the economic improvements are the major concerns in the years ahead”. These monies will realm. The program "will help of Moroccans, she pointed out, help strengthen Morocco’s efforts to implement the Free Trade Agreement underlining that these concerns will be open up greater economic, (FTA) currently under negotiation with taken into account to meet the educational, and political opportunities the USA, improve the general aspirations of the Moroccan people for all its citizens. Some of these investment climate and develop small monies will also assist Morocco to and medium enterprises" which will enhance its fight against terrorism. "translate into more jobs for Secondly, he announced the Moroccans," said USAID's Asst intention to double U.S. foreign military Administrator for Asia and the Near financing to Morocco to reach $20 East, Ambassador Wendy Chamberlin. million in 2005. He said, “We look USAID also plans to help address forward to enhancing our cooperation illiteracy and basic education needs in in the years ahead with Morocco’s fine Morocco, through "a program to support military forces and to increasing job skills training and create public and Morocco’s abilities to update its private partnerships that will link skills equipment and police its shores. The training to job placement." The monies United States greatly values its will help strengthen Morocco's efforts to relationship with Morocco and we will "open up greater economic, educational Page 6 Friends of Morocco
Congressional Caucus on U.S./Moroccan Relations
The US Congress announced the War on Terror and continues to be a share Morocco's approach, vision and Tuesday, July 22, 2003 the creation of strong supporter of American efforts to determination to cement bilateral a Congressional Caucus on U.S./ bring peace and security to the Middle partnership, adding that the US Moroccan Relations that aims to East. decision to conclude a free trade promote understanding surrounding Since 2002, the U.S. and Morocco agreement with the North African Moroccan issues among members of have been in talks toward ultimately country, confirms its support to the Congress and build long-term bilateral reaching a free trade agreement. These important economic, political and relations. negotiations deepen America’s dialogue social reforms currently being Rep. Phil English (R-PA), one of in the Middle East and build upon the conducted in Morocco under the aegis four co-chairmen of the caucus that free trade agreements already reached of king Mohammed VI. In this vein, he was founded at the initiative of with Israel and Jordan. said the new caucus' support for the congressman Lincoln Diaz-Balart (R- “Morocco is a natural market for anticipated agreement "is crucial, FL), and also includes Christopher many American manufacturers. A free because negotiations are delicate in John (D-LA) and John Tanner (D-TN) trade agreement has the potential to certain areas." For his part, U.S. trade said the parliamentary group is a step bring both countries closer together for representative, Robert Zoellick, forward toward the conclusion of a free mutual benefit,” English said. “The trade reiterated support to the agreement, trade agreement and will reinforce negotiators are working through critical stressing that it will open the world's Moroccan-US historic relations that issues that are central to any trading largest market for Moroccan products. date back to 1777. relationship between such different A similar effort occurred in July “Today, I am pleased to announce, economies. The caucus will seek to 1999 when 110 US congressmen set along with my colleagues, the new promote a better understanding of these up the caucus, "Friends of Morocco in Congressional Morocco Caucus, which talks and the mutual benefits that might the United States Congress” but this will cultivate our longstanding strategic accrue from a free trade agreement.” has languished with some members no relationship,” said English, the co- “Morocco has the potential to be a longer serving. chairman of the caucus and member strategic beachhead for our economy in Other current caucus members of the House Ways and Means North Africa and the Middle East,” are: Kevin Brady (R-TX), Ken Calvert (R- Subcommittee on Trade. “This is a real English said. CA), Dave Camp (R-MI), Philip Crane (R- opportunity for our two countries to In addition to investment and IL), Joe Crowley (D-NY), Jennifer Dunn build on our historical relationship and business opportunities which the free (R-WA), Alcee Hastings (D-FL), J.D. find more common ground.” trade agreement, that is currently being Hayworth (R-AZ), Wally Herger (R-CA), The U.S. and Morocco have been negotiated, will open to both countries, David Hobson (R-CA), Amo Houghton working closely since 1995 to promote the agreement may transform Morocco (R-NY), Darrell Issa (R-CA), Joe closer economic ties and security into a hub for regional trade given its Knollenberg (R-MI), Thad McCotter (R- relations. Both countries share a geo-strategic location, English noted. MI), James Moran (D-VA), Collin common experience being targeted by Moroccan Delegate Minister for Foreign Peterson (D-MN), Jim Ramstad (R-MN), terrorists and religious extremists. Affairs and Cooperation and Chief Billy Tauzin (R-LA) and Fred Upton (R- President Bush met with Moroccan Negotiator for the free trade agreement MI). Noted as supportive but do not King Mohammed VI in April 2003 to with the USA, Taib Fassi Fihri, told the join caucuses are Nancy Johnson (R- discuss trade relations and regional caucus members that their adherence to CT) and Rob Portman (R-OH). security. Morocco has been an ally in the fresh group evidences that they
Angry Moroccan Teacher Throws Pupils Out of the Window Editor’s question: How many times did shoulder and serious injuries to his face depression." you want to do this? Just wonderin’ ... and head while the other, age 10, The official had no comment suffered only slight injuries, the official on whether the teacher would be RABAT, Morocco (Reuters) -- Two from the ministry's delegation in disciplined. Moroccan schoolboys were injured Casablanca said. Monday when their teacher threw He said the teacher had warned them out of a first floor classroom the pair she would throw them out if window for being too noisy, an they were not quiet. Education Ministry official said. "They did not listen. They should One of the pupils, aged nine, have listened," he told Reuters by ended up in hospital with a fractured telephone. "She (the teacher) suffers Friends of Morocco Membership Renewal/Application PLEASE NOTE: Prior to filling out this application, consider making a few copies to pass on to others. While many of our members are former Peace Corps Morocco volunteers, membership is open to anyone interested in the people, culture and development of Morocco.
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Winter 04 P.O. Box 2579, Washington, DC 20013-2579 Friends of Morocco
We like to keep an update on our members. Please answer the following questions:
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►www.wafin.com was initially set up in January 2001 as an all-purpose resource for the Moroccan community in North America, but the site has now evolved into a magazine of culture and ideas for people who prefer to discuss and debate Moroccan affairs in English. We strongly encourage everyone to contribute by joining our ever expanding database of over 8000 persons, which is absolutely free and private. Members interested in contributing articles, opinions, or commentaries should do so in English. Wafin offers E-Consulate, Resources, Voices, Dialogues, Chat, Souk, Business Directory, Ask an Expert, and Moroccans of the Month. What Does Wafin mean? "Wafin!" has several meanings in Moroccan. It can mean "what's up?" or "where have you been?" or "what's new?" depending on the situation. Sometimes it is used to simply say "hi."
►www.moroccousa.com Based out of Chicago and just starting in February 2003, the web site www.moroccousa.com already has 1,400 registered users. MoroccoUSA.com's main objective is not to compete with other Moroccan web sites, but rather to provide our Moroccan community with a quality web site that will enhance the communications between our fellow Moroccans in the USA and abroad, which will serve as a resource center for the Moroccan community and as a guide for the visitors. The site includes that glorious mixture of English, French and transliterated Moroccan dialectical Arabic such as “Daba Yemken Lik Tedkhoul L Site Avec Ton UserName & Password” when you successfully register. Site functions include:
• One Free Page Web Site w/o Advertisements: Create your own web site free from all advertisements. Whether you choose to post your own profile or photos of your old classmates, we'll be happy to design & host your site for you. This is our way of saying thank you for becoming a member. Note: First come first serve. You can choose your name or your business name to be part of MoroccoUSA.com as long as it's available, the sooner you grab your name the better it is. For instance: MoroccoUSA.com/karim or MoroccoUSA.com/ahmed or MoroccoUSA.com/amina etc.
• Classifieds Section: Serves a utilitarian function for finding merchandise, services, employment, and other people.
• Forums: Builds a trusted space for communications, where all of us can make meaningful and valuable contributions and exchange views and opinions in a constructive manner.
• Zawaj Anyone?: This section is dedicated ONLY to those of you who are serious about marriage (no dating or games please). Good luck in finding your dream wife/husband.
• Calendar of Events: Where members can post their own events (birthdays, parties etc) or other important events such as Ramadane, Eid etc.
• Daily Moroccan News: Top Moroccan stories are pulled from the best newspapers worldwide.
• World News: Top world stories are pulled from the best newspapers worldwide.
• Restaurant Guide: If you have a taste for Moroccan food, this is where you can find the best Moroccan restaurants. Members can also rate their favorite restaurant online. For dessert, the restaurants owners can create their own menus online! What's more? Check please :))
• Health - Fastfood facts: Find out what nutrients are in your fast food meal.
• Health - Moroccan Recipes: Use our extensive recipes database to find your delicious Moroccan food. Feel free to share with us your favorite recipe, we'll be happy to add it to our database.
• Knowledge Base Section: This section will be dedicated to all professional Moroccans out there who would like to volunteer in helping our community members answering some of the questions they may have.
• Moroccan Voices: This section will be dedicated primarily to issues relating to Morocco and Moroccans. We encourage you to share your own stories with us. Page 10 Friends of Morocco New Moroccan Film Mille Mois (Thousand Months) Debuts in Washington, DC
A Thousand Months (Mille Mois) is chair around on his head when school is given an objective, yet absorbing the title of a new film that premiered in not in session. Its symbolic value grows as picture of the village lifestyle; a Washington, DC October 11 and 12 as a series of events that involve the whole picture of a village adapting their faith part of the Arabian Sights Film village are set in motion and lead to an to fit their needs and questions. Festival. The film is by director Faouzi unexpectedly dramatic finale. Presented at the Cannes Film Bensaidi and was produced in 2003 Mille Mois is Bensaïdi's debut feature, Festival this year, A Thousand Months and is 124 minutes in color. Set in and it is a film crafted with love and a won the Le Premier Regard award. It 1981 in the Atlas Mountains, A restrained empathy for his characters. was a feature film at the 41st Annual Thousand Months tells the tale of While the story focuses on Mehdi, the New York Film Festival October 4 and seven-year-old boy Mehdi (Fouad camera merely observes him and his 5. This debut film is distinguished by Labied), who lives in a small village family rather than immerses us in their natural performances, stunning with his young mother, Amina (Nezha lives. Bensaïdi does not manipulate the scenery and a gradual building of Rahil), and dignified grandfather audience, but provides a thoughtful and tension that leads to an unexpected (Mohammed Majd). His father has entertaining series of episodes that show finale. There is no U.S. distributor been thrown into prison for inciting a us that, in life, it is difficult to always know yet. strike, but young Mehdi has been led the right thing to do. Indeed, even in a to believe that he is working in France. culture so dominated by unquestioned Mehdi has been assigned the task of religious thinking, choices are not always guarding his teacher’s chair, the only as easy to make as they seem. Further, thing of value in the poor village while Bensaïdi refuses to judge his schoolroom. He carries the wooden characters’ lifestyles and choices, we are
Thomas Riley Nominated to be Next US Ambassador to Morocco
On October 14, President Bush just go down to the Starbucks and get held on September 12 in the nominated Thomas Thomas Riley of coffee. I have armed guards that go with Kingdom as well as the reform of the California to be Ambassador me and a bullet-proof car,” Riley said. He family code that gives more rights to Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of said he is looking forward to the women, and which he described as “a the United States of American to the challenges of the new job and believes major and revolutionary law for the Kingdom of Morocco, He was con- “there is an opportunity for me to make a rights of women and children”. firmed by the Senate on December 9. difference,” he said. Riley plans to move He also pledged to endeavor for Currently, Mr. Riley serves as to Rabat with his wife Nancy and Bailey, the implementation of the free trade president of Active Photo in Mountain their border collie. agreement being discussed by the US View, California. He previously served During his hearing by the Senate and Morocco. in the same position for Web State, Foreign Relations Committee, the US Riley was nominated by the Inc., Unity Systems and the General ambassador-designate to Morocco has President to replace Margaret Resources Corporation. Earlier in his vowed to endeavor for the “continued Tutwiler, who served as ambassador career, Mr. Riley served as a program strengthening of solid relations” between to Morocco for two years. She manager for Robinton Products. He the US and Morocco, “a strategic ally and was confirmed December 9 as the his bachelor’s degree from Stanford an old friend”. Under Secretary for Public Diplomacy University and his master’s degree Thomas Riley recalled that the and Public Affairs. She is the choice from Harvard. Riley and Bush are old Kingdom of Morocco was the first country to replace Charlotte Beers who was friends from Harvard Business School in the world to recognize the newly-born hired after the September 11th in the 1970s. Riley grew up in American nation in 1777 as well as the terrorist attacks to improve the United Atherton, CA and has lived in Palo Alto Friendship and Cooperation Treaty States’ image, particularly in the for 23 years. concluded between the two countries Muslim world. “This is very exciting, but I’m 1787. working for the government and that’s The American diplomat also about as different from Silicon Valley welcomed the political, economic and as you can imagine,“ said Riley. social reforms undertaken “with courage” "Rabat and Silicon Valley may share hot by Morocco under the leadership of H.M. and sunny weather, but the two places King Mohammed VI, mentioning in the are obviously worlds apart. I can’t regard “the successful local elections” Friends of Morocco Page 11 Peace Corps Program Resumes in Morocco
By Bruce Cohen, PC Morocco Director pride at how well the staff here has and participate in the meaningful work handled this stressful transition period. of Peace Corps, and am equally I am pleased to announce the True to the Moroccan culture of committed to Peace Corps emphasis resumption of the Peace Corps compassion, politeness and support, on cross-cultural understanding. Now, Morocco program. By the time you both the new and returning volunteers more than ever, the Arab world read this newsletter, enshallah, we will have come to quickly appreciate the deserves our support and have sworn-in over sixty volunteers, beauty of not only the country but the understanding. including returning trainees and people of Morocco. volunteers from the April 3rd I can assure you that your fond departure. memories of your Peace Corps As former volunteers from experience in Morocco are not “a thing of Morocco, I know that you will share my the past”. I feel very fortunate to be here
Our (New) Man in Morocco
Editor’s note: Kimeo Carr, our parents. I had lived at home for a good excited. And that pretty much sums it previous “Man in Morocco”, has stretch of the summer and it was the up because we’re leaving to go to a completed his service and is back longest stretch of time I’d spent with my place where we have no friends or home. Our new “Man in Morocco” is parents in seven years. I felt a closer family, and where we know nothing of Jack Sundell. Jack wrote the following connection them than I ever had before the language and culture. Of course, after staging in Philadelphia in because I suppose I’ve done some it’s exhilarating to be embarking on the September 2003. growing up since high school, and I felt adventure of a lifetime, but it is also like I was getting to know them for the nerve-racking to have so little of your Staging is coming to an end, and first time as people rather than parents. former life to stand on. In a way, it will we leave for Morocco tomorrow night. Staging has been fun, exciting, and be like a return to childhood, except We catch a bus from Philadelphia to surreal. It’s amazing how quickly bonds that we’ll be responsible for our New York City at noon tomorrow and fly and friendships form in intense actions. out of JFK at 7:00 p.m. It’s been a situations. I’ve been with other But, it seems like a child’s fast, intense roller coaster ride that volunteers barely 24 hours, and I already perspective might be the best one to has brought me to this point. It really feel like I know many of them. An take into this experience. Children see seems like a week ago that I received inordinate number of faces remind me of the world through fresh and eager an invitation to go to Morocco, though people I’ve known from other places, or eyes, they don’t demand that life it’s actually been a little over two combinations of people. This is probably conforms to their ideals, and they are month. just my weary, storm-tossed brain willing to accept what they see without Joining the Peace Corps is a big grasping for some sense of familiarity in necessarily understanding. This is decision and a big commitment for a new and completely alien environment. important because I don’t think any of anyone. I felt like I’d been extremely But, I’m smiling as I write this, because us really knows what’s going to be busy the last eight weeks tying up I’m having a great time. waiting for us when we get off that loose ends, settling accounts, and Our group is composed of an plane Sunday morning. As Bob Marley saying good bye to friends and family, incredible, divers slice of the United said, “Time alone, time will tell”. but now that I’ve met others in the States. I don’t think I’ve ever been so group, I realize that I’m leaving impressed with a group of folks nor relatively little behind. There are those surrounded by so many with whom I who have sold cars, houses, can’t wait to become friends. Our Peace businesses—basically restructured Corps squad comprises people of all their entire lives—in order to go to a ages, backgrounds and temperaments; foreign country and give two years of there are comedians, introverts, poets, their time to serving other people. It’s pickers, prophets and pilgrims, and I feel hard not to have respect for those who so blessed to be a part of it. have made such enormous sacrifices We went around the room today and to be here. talked about how everyone feels about For me, one of the hardest parts of flying out tomorrow, and the two most leaving was saying good bye to my common responses were anxious and Page 12 Friends of Morocco New Books about Morocco
Saharan Boy by direction he hopes is toward the Atlas For the recently published Camel’s Richard Bellamy Mountains. Eye he and his indigenous guides (Errachidia/Goulmima Many things happen on Hamid's trekked and rode camels several 75-78) journey to Rasheedia. I don't want to hundred miles through southern published November give away the whole story, but if you want Morocco’s Draa River Valley and over 2002 to know how the rest of the story goes, I Saharan sands to the Atlantic Ocean. reviewed by Adam suggest you read the book. However, When his Moroccan agent advised him Labriny you should know that it is harsh reading. that the journey was risky but it could There is nothing happy about this story, be done, Tayler wrote, “Suddenly, all and if you require happy endings this is my time in Morocco and trips to the Saharan Boy is a challenging novel not for you. Draa seemed like a prelude to the geared toward 13-16 year olds. I loved the book because it talks a chance to realize a dream I had Saharan Boy is about a boy named lot about the Moroccan culture. But I nurtured for fifteen years.” Hamid Mbarka and his mom, Fatima, was disappointed in the ending because Unfortunately, this dream seldom his dad, Hassan, his brother Ali and his I felt like I was left hanging. Hamid's comes into focus for the reader. His sister, Ayeesha. problems never got solved and his life unconventional route takes us through The novel takes place in Morocco was still horrible. That sort-of aggravated a welter of towns, villages, and wide- in the 1980's. At the beginning of the me. Maybe the author was trying to spots-in-the-dunes, few of them story, the family lives in the city of make the reader feel like Hamid, never distinctive in this account. (A map of Rasheedia. Hamid thought his life was knowing what was coming next in his life. the route traveled would have helped.) pretty good, but when his father gets However… I'm waiting for the sequel. His tone is mostly dispassionate, called to war, everything changes. recording events and occasionally Hassan is sent to the Sahara to fight Rating on a scale of 1 to 10: 8 sharing a moment of enthusiasm for the Polisario. He is kidnapped and the his guides or the people he meets in military leaders believe he is dead. the crumbling casbahs or dust- The family is left with no source of Glory in a Camel’s Eye: encrusted tents along the journey. income. When Fatima can't pay rent, Trekking Through the Even the desert, with its variety of the greedy landlord comes and takes Moroccan Sahara by Jeffrey terrain and winds, recedes into their little house away. They are Tayler (Marrakesh 88-90) background, never fully becoming a forced to move in with some relatives character in the story. It’s as if the in Fez. When they get to Fez, they published June 2003 increasing hardships on Tayler, his two discover that their new home is in a Ruhhal guides, and three camels shantytown. They also learn that narrow the narrator’s focus to conflicts finding work is very hard. Hamid, his reviewed by Vic Cox among the men and the struggles to (originally published on brother and sister, his mom, his aunt survive to the next oasis or well. And www.peacecorpswriters.org) and his uncle did any job they could after four years of drought, some of just to earn the slightest amount of those Saharan wells are dry. money. Then his sister got fatally sick. WE ALL HAVE DREAMS, but few of us The drought is blamed for driving His pretty good life had turned into a pursue them with the passionate the independent, clannish Ruhhal difficult struggle for existence. persistence of Jeffrey Tayler, travel book people from their traditional herding Then Hamid got an idea. He author and Moscow-based life into the country’s drab towns and decided to go back to the military base correspondent for the Atlantic Monthly. flyblown villages. Some cling to the old in Rasheedia to check on the status of He needs that quality because going on ways and still tend their goats and his father and see if he had returned. long, arduous and often dangerous camels on the diminishing vegetation, While his mom was out working, Hamid journeys apparently is central to Tayler’s but Tayler reports little luck in finding left his younger brother in charge of his dreams. the bold and valorous desert people he sister and set out on his journey to In his first travel saga book, Siberian imagined. Rasheedia. He hitchhikes to a town in Dawn, Tayler hitchhiked and rode the Inspired to master Arabic in the middle of nowhere, and soon rails more than 8,000 miles from college by reading Philip K. Hitti’s realizes the man who picked him up is Magadan, Siberia, to Warsaw. For his History of the Arabs (1943) and about to betray him. While Hamid is next book, Facing the Congo, he and a Wilfred Thesiger’s Arabian Sands snoozing the car stops. The driver is guide paddled a dugout canoe 1,000 (1954), Tayler claims to have become telling a policeman that he found a miles down the Congo River, fending off “enamored of the Arab world.” Yet his wanted member of a gang. Hamid corrupt government functionaries and first venture in 1987 into the region manages to escape and runs off in a traversing malaria-infested regions. (Continued on page 21) Page 13 Friends of Morocco
Create a New Era of Muslim-Western Relations
By Jason Ben-Meir 93-95 respond to the self-defined needs of the over the Palestinians. Israel now Iraqi people. In this way, a truly can generate tremendous good will Western countries significantly empowered, democratic, and prosperous by directly funding community increasing their support for community country will be built. projects in the territories that local development in the Muslim world will By creating projects that diversify Palestinians are encouraged to bring new opportunities to millions of incomes, broad participation in local design and manage. According to people and improve international development prevents the displacement officials in the state department, the of farmers caused by international free- Palestinian Authority (PA) currently trade. Such projects often include the controls monopolies in the territories utilization of modern agricultural of essential commodities, including methods, fruit and forestry tree planting, petroleum, gravel, flour, and sugar. potable water, environmental The World Bank, Israel, the U.S., enhancement, school construction, NGOs, and the international women’s cooperatives, tourism, artisanal community should strongly crafts, and others. Free-trade with the encourage the PA to more actively U.S. and E.U. makes it critical that Jordan support local development initiatives and Morocco create new projects in rural and not be a competitor. communities because they currently Finally, broad participation in relations and security. For these cannot community development expands benefits to be achieved, however, full the zone of tolerance, making the participation of community members in beneficiaries of this process less the design and management of inclined towards fundamentalism. development projects is necessary to This is due to people achieving their ensure that real local needs and own interests, suffering less interests are being met. alienation, and being less prone to There are many examples around be used as a destructive tool by the world of community-designed others. Additionally, as the majority projects that successfully create of people in communities, regions, employment, diversify incomes, provide and nations in the Muslim world food and healthcare, further education, come to reap the benefits of this preserve natural resources, and forge compete with Western agricultural development approach, they public-private partnerships. As the production. Morocco, for example, a themselves will more boldly work development process unfolds, the predominantly rural country currently against extremism. decision-making ability of community negotiating free-trade with the U.S., needs If governments significantly members is enhanced because of the several billion dollars to realize new increase their support for inclusive dialogue and information development opportunities for its rural community-based economic sharing that takes place during the communities. Secretary of State Colin development, prosperity will be design and management of projects. Powell announced during his December generated, international relations Experiences also show that civil society trip to Morocco a fourfold increase in and security will be significantly institutions are created and new tiers of economic aid (to roughly $170 million enhanced, and a potential cooperation are formed when over three years). This is certainly a step unbearable clash between the neighboring communities implementing in the right direction. More, however, Muslim world and the West will be projects that benefit their entire region. must be done by the international avoided. In Iraq where nation-building is community to support projects local The following five initiatives critically needed, broad participation in people determine so that urban migration achieve community development community development will mobilize and further discontent are prevented. across a country. Their local people. If implemented across the Inclusive participation in development implementation in Arab and Muslim country, economic and political creates projects that encourage self- nations should be vigorously transformation will take place. Billions reliance, which would greatly benefit the supported by the international of dollars spent in reconstruction Palestinian people in the West Bank and community, which will bring contracts with foreign companies and Gaza. Since the occupation in 1967, profound mutual benefits. coalition forces involved in the physical Israel adjusted the economy of the 1. Establish Agencies of building of Iraq are disempowering to territories to suit its own economy. This Coordination: One of the major local communities and often foment created a dependency (as seen in trade challenges to achieving inclusive resentment. The U.S. and others should and labor) that gives Israel political power (Continued on page 23) support community projects that Page 14 Friends of Morocco Reconnections: Another RPCV Returns
By Polly Rightmire Scoville (Fès 63-65) refound it when we stopped at Lalla point out in the distance the Lycèe in Mimouna en route to Tangiers from Fès. the medina where I had taught and tell It’s certainly nothing new for a I t had been a small, dusty village where I how my life had been changed by my former Peace Corps Volunteer to had spent one summer teaching the experiences, and especially the return to country of service and meet women to sew uniforms for their children friendships which had been forged and with former students. But when the who went to preschool. Now, it was a just renewed. I envied the volunteers’ interval between leaving and returning much larger, dusty village. My roommate coming adventures. is almost 40 years, the trip receives and I had a best friend, Tayeb, who Saïd had managed to locate some added poignancy. owned a small epicier which sold a bit of other members of my English class I had taught ESL at Lycée Moulay everything, all on credit, and where we and arrange a reunion during my stay. Idriss, an all-boys school in Fès in would go each afternoon for mint tea In Rabat the week before, I stood 1963-65 as a members of the second and solace from all the misadventures of outside a restaurant with six of them group of Peace Corps volunteers in the day. (now graying, balder, some with Morocco. I had returned to visit one I didn’t know if Tayeb was still alive. paunches, but still recognizable and student, Adbeltif, and his family 13 By asking around, we were excited to very dear) in a semi-circle, and we all years ago, but had lost touch since find out he was there and a boy led sang “My Darling Clementine”! They then. In November 2001, an email use to his house. We were met by the remembered it! And now they are magically appeared from another sound of ferocious barking. Finally, a girl reconnected with each other. students, Saïd, with whom I’d had no came along and opened the gate. We Connections and reconnections. contact whatever since teaching him in went inside the courtyard and there, ina That’s what it’s all about. What a trip. 1964. He found my address through small alcove outside the house, Tayeb Go back if you get a chance. Peace Corps Washington. When I lay reclining on a mattress, surrounded heard about the Friends of Morocco by bowls with bits of grapes and scraps 40th Anniversary of Peace Corps in of food. He looked thinner than usual, Morocco Celebration Tour to take and his blue eyes were now clouded. place in October 2002, I signed up and Tayeb was blind. He asked if I had come notified him. Through some detective to see him, and I said I had. He said, “Je work, he found Abdeltif and we were voudrais te voir.” I took his hand and he put back in touch. said, “C’est elle.” He told of his bad So, after the wonderful 10-day bus heart, and sat with his head between his tour of coastal and southern cities (a knees. plug here for Hassan Samrhouni, the His wife, my friend Rita, came with able tour organizer), I met Saïd and her sisters and various children. Much Abdeltif and spent the next 11 days embracing, exclaiming and reciting the being hosted by them and their lullaby she had taught me years before, families. What a transformation! My “Ni ni a mou mou” - I had remembered it! students had become bank directors, I was led to Rita’s brother Mohammed’s professors, lawyers, director of a house, many-roomed, for more translation school, etc. Adbeltif’s little conversation and photos. brothers and sisters, who had been I left rejoicing having seen old running around in plastic sandals, had friends, but mourning for Tayeb. Abdeltif their own families and similar jobs. asked, “Do you know if there’s Moroccan They live in large, beautiful houses and organization like the Peace Corps?” He served me sumptuous meals and was wondering if he could join … elegant desserts. Nowhere did we use Just before returning home, I had the of fingers to eat as we had in the ‘60s. honor to address the new Peace Corps Instead of sleeping on a lumpy volunteer group which had assembled at mattress in a room off an open the Hotel Merienides, atop a Fès hilltop courtyard as I was wont in Peace overlooking the medina, for their Corps days, I was treated to stays in swearing-in ceremony. five-star hotels overlooking the medina Impressively, they were already of Fès. skilled in speaking several Berber All this comfort and convenience dialects as well as Darija and French, had their charms, but I missed “my” and well-acculturated from living with Morocco, the one of the mid-1960s. I local Moroccan families. I was able to Page 15 Friends of Morocco News from Morocco
US doubles Morocco military aid Over 1,200 Moroccans affected by a series of prevention and awareness US Secretary of State Colin Powell AIDS, official figures actions in the poorest districts of has said the US is to double military aid Statistics of the Moroccan Marrakech through an itinerant info-bus to Morocco, on a visit to the kingdom. health ministry say 1,237 which carries a physician and volunteers US economic aid will be boosted Moroccans are affected by AIDS, and who answer teens' questions. The bus four-fold over the coming years - a between 13,000 and 16,000 can also conduct anonymous and free reward for Morocco's support in the US- persons are HIV positive. HIV tests for people wishing to have the led war against terror. Out of the group of AIDS test. Mr. Powell was speaking in affected people, 63% are males and On its part, the health ministry said it Marrakesh, during a brief tour of North 37% females. Sexual transmission will increase starting next year the Africa. accounts for 73% of cases. anonymous and confidential testing He later stressed the importance of The statistics were released on centers as well those that provide press freedom, broad political the occasion of the world anti-AIDS treatment to AIDS-affected people. participation and respect for human Days (Dec.1) that featured a series The ministry said it is collaborating rights on a visit to Algeria. of awareness events by the Pan- with NGOs and international donors to The visits to Tunisia, Morocco and African anti-Aids Organization conduct a nationwide strategic plan Algeria are aimed at increasing co- (OPALS) and the Anti-Aids covering the 2002-2004 period. The plan operation in the war against terrorism association (ALCS). focuses on three complementary actions: and promoting democratic For OPALS chairwoman, Nadia prevention targeting vulnerable reform. Bezad, although the situation is not populations, detecting HIV infection and Mr. Powell said he held "candid" yet very worrying in Morocco treatment of affected persons. discussions with Algerian President compared to other African countries, http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/Dail Abdelaziz Bouteflika on the past years of it is important that all the concerned y/Day/031202/2003120216.html political violence in Algeria, which has actors get mobilized. OPALS has claimed thousands of lives. presented a program revolving Morocco earmarks $1.4 million for He said he called for full and open around three major axes: medical handicapped integration political participation "for all who wish to and psycho-social treatment, The Moroccan secretariat of state in participate", including free, fair and prevention and community action. charge of family, solidarity and social transparent elections, and Mr. Bouteflika The organization has prepared a CD- action has earmarked for 2003 over 14 gave him corresponding "assurances". ROM, a movie and a set of million dirhams ($1.4 million) to support Islamic militants took up arms awareness actions, including visits 160 associations working in the field of against the Algerian Government in to schools by physicians who will handicapped persons integration. 1992 after the authorities scrapped give courses on sexually-transmitted The department says in its annual elections that an Islamist party was diseases, inform teens on medical activities report partnership with the civil poised to win. Fresh presidential services they can obtain at the society is the key to improve elections are expected next April. association and encourage them to handicapped persons' condition, Earlier, Mr. Powell congratulated undergo anonymous testing at recalling that in 2003, some 200 Moroccan King Mohammed VI on what itinerant centers. associations have benefited from its he called bold political reforms. Meanwhile the ALCS said it will support and advise. He thanked the Muslim leader for focus its awareness events and Concerning education, the his support of US policy in Iraq and prevention campaigns on major department says it has mainly created efforts to solve the conflict in the Middle tourism cities. 104 special classes and organized East. The events, which include training sessions for educators, Mr. Powell said Morocco and the US concerts, distribution of posters and inspectors and headmasters. shared the same vision of Israeli and pamphlets, a broad mailing The enactment this year of the law Palestinian states coexisting peacefully. operation with the water bill and a on accessibilities for handicapped He announced that the roadmap - caricature exhibition, will target persons is a major asset that will the US-brokered plan to bring peace to especially the cities of Marrakech, reinforce Morocco's endeavors in favor of The Middle East - was definitely not Agadir, Tangier and Essaouira. the handicapped, the document goes. dead. Chairwoman of the association, According to the document, the He said what was needed now was a Hakima Himmich, said 1,000 secretariat of state in charge of family, commitment by Palestinian Prime families and 100,000 solidarity and social action has also set Minister Abu Ala to fight terrorism. administrations will receive the ALCS up special libraries, handed devices http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east message. worth some 2.27 million DH and /3287563.stm The association will also conduct (Continued on page 20) Page 16 Friends of Morocco Morocco at the Movies #5 - “Hideous Kinky” (1998)
By Dan Cahill (Kenitra 68-70) though he comes and goes a lot, always has been disguised as a boy in order to brings fun with him when he appears. By join the group. The opening sequence, Don't let the title the end of the film, his efforts to help a nightmare actually, is brilliant at mislead you: there's Julia and her kids give him a sacrificial, evoking the scary culture shock of dark nothing kinky in this nearly heroic stature. In spite of his narrow streets and strange music that adaptation of Esther flaws, he is a good representative of the would startle any small child. (great- warmth and hospitality that Moroccans The movie was directed by Gillies granddaughter of have always shown to outsiders. Mackinnon, a Scot with only a few wor- Sigmund) Freud's One can only wish that the outsid- thy films in his credits... "The Playboys" 1992 autobiographi- ers had been as well represented. is certainly worth a look if you've never cal novel, and the Winslet's character, Julia, is an unsympa- seen it. But he brings little inventive- only hideous part is thetic mess, who loves her children but ness or style to this project, and there the child-rearing approach of her doesn't have a clue how to rear them are times when we wish for more of mother Julia, played well by Kate responsibly. Her search to "understand Morocco. It's too bad that they were Winslet. Bea and Lucy are Julia's two the truth" through Sufism seems superfi- only able to show Djemaa el Fna, the daughters, ages 5 and 7, whom she cial and motivated more by what she's heart of Marrakech, in long shot from takes to Morocco, in flight from her running from than what she's seeking. above. Dialogue scenes, probably faltering relationship with their philan- When she finally makes it to Algeria and meant to take place there, are instead dering father (presumably in real life visits a Sheik (played by Amidou, per- filmed in a more controlled setting the noted painter, Julian Freud). haps Morocco's most well-known actor which doesn't have the same feel. The year is 1972, and the setting with appearances in 44 feature films to This is probably a question of budget is chiefly the medina of Marrakech. date), she realizes, to the surprise of no (one shudders to think how much floos As you can surmise from my dates of one in the audience, that she's not ready. it would take to actually control any service above, I am qualified to judge By this time our patience with her has part of the square-- I know, Hitchcock the period accuracy of the production, reached a breaking point: she has left did it, but he was Hitchcock and that and it's dead on. The sense of Morocco her older daughter, Bea, in a communal was nearly 50 years ago). as a new discovery by the Euro- living arrangement because Bea wants On the whole, the film is best American counterculture is well- to go to school and live a more stable life taken as a cautionary tale of the risks depicted by the background elements than hitch-hiking to Algeria, as Lucy is involved in going too far into the hippie of drugged-out hippies on a quest for forced to do. When Julia returns and lifestyle if you're expected to look after spiritual truth and a good party. The tracks her down, there are confronta- your kids at the same time. But along soundtrack tunes, from Richie Havens, tions between the manager of a Christian the way, it's a wonderful opportunity to America, and the Jefferson Airplane, orphanage and Julia, and it's hard to groove once again on how great that strike just the right note. Westerners imagine anyone siding with this feckless time and place were for so many of us sit in on Gnawa music performances, excuse for a mother. who are still intoxicated by it. joining into the trance-dancing. T Despite this glaring problem of an here's even a scene at the end of the unsympathetic protagonist (unless we Contact Dan at
(Continued from page 17) small chiseled gazelles. not far from the village, that ages ago Following the water, we soon found a seemed so close. village. In the mountains of Morocco Perhaps I was just tired, but on the this consists of a store and a vague short final leg back into Tafraoute the Continuing for perhaps another hour we patchwork of garden plots, and small assaults of pleading rug merchants came upon an intact earthen house, homes. Was it “the village”? Who were muted and far less abrasive housing a father and his son. All smiles knew? Who cared? They had cold than normal. My mind was elsewhere, and warm greetings, they stepped away drinks. lost in the desert. from their ragged band of half a dozen stringy goats. Alas, none of the locals would freely Later, in my room, I gazed past the admit to the whereabouts of “la open window at distant mountains Tired, and long since disabused of our gazelle”. On the edge of town, one old and felt immensely thankful for the self-esteem, we asked after the location man grudgingly consented to lead us people who helped me get this far. of the chalk drawing and were rewarded to it, for a small fee. Exhausted, we This group, I realized, included angry with a wide-eyed stare, a chorus of “la conceded. With great ceremony, and rug merchants, and the chiseling old gazelle”, and a vague gesture in the money in hand, he led us to a small man. Without their burdens the trip direction we’d been traveling. corral holding the scrawniest of goats. would have been incomplete.
Forward ho. The trudge continued. After several unsuccessful attempts to The things I remembered were not reckon our map with the land in front the painted rocks or “la gazelle”, but Some long while later, we were back in of us we came upon an old woman the smile on an old woman’s face, the dusty farm country, a craggy who offered up the broadest of smiles. young girls’ complete surprise at moonscape of abandoned garden plots With nary a hint of ceremony, or finding us on their doorstep, and not and overgrazed land. Clearly this had obligation, she led us through palm knowing what was coming at us next. once been a land of abundance, or at fronds and dense grass, off trail and the very least the home of dogged through the stream, to a non-descript The real treasure was the chance to optimists. rock on a bluff about six feet above the get good and lost for a while. village. Later, canyons walls began to reappear, Copyright Glenn D. Kaufmann, 2002. and then, suddenly, we turned a corner Here, in a place uncharted by bellboy, All rights reserved. Used with permission. into heaven, an oasis of palm trees, entrepreneurial farmer, and well grass, and the tiniest of streams. beyond our route-finding skills, sat two
Don’t Touch My Country By M’hamed El Kadi (Peace Corps and future to Morocco. Morocco staff) We met with the Association leaders and they want to extend The symbolic logo that a youth their willingness to share this logo association in Casablanca created right with the RPCV community and after the tragic attacks in that city Friends of Morocco. The logo can united all Moroccans regardless of their be reproduced at no charge political tendencies or social provided you get in touch with the backgrounds in a big demonstration in Association for permission. the economic capital of Morocco. The logo came out on t-shirts, Association Initiative Urbaine posters and many other items. 9, rue Ibnout Al Baittar “Don’t Touch My Country” is a very Derb Saad, Hay Mohammadi symbolic motto against terrorism Casablanca created by the Association Initiative Email: [email protected] Urbaine, a youth neighborhood association operating with limited funds. It is a group of young Moroccans who strive for better cross-cultural understanding and the empowerment of youth in their neighborhood. This small association gives a sense of hope
Page 19 Friends of Morocco Neighbors By Orin “Buz” Hargraves (El Hajeb 80-82) thunderstorm. I took advantage of the wouldn't be subject to the prying eyes cooler air to get a little exercise and of students. As we continued towards It was a hot, dusty afternoon in late walked to the post office. I felt fortified each other, we were nearly jogging, August. I had just returned to El Hajeb, now after the hours of seclusion, ready trying to reach our destinations the village where I had taught English to withstand the stares of the children, before the rain. Under these for a year. I'd been away for the and the cries of "Christian! Christian!" circumstances, the normal greeting summer: a few weeks of being that often accompanied me on my walks rituals - which could run a few surrounded by Volunteers old and new in the village. minutes of chattering even with at that year' omnibus training program The post office offered the usual someone you saw all the time - would in Rabat, the capital. El Hajeb was a big experience: a cluster of people mashed be overlooked. We only exchanged come-down after all that. I was the only together in front of the sullen clerk, all smiles and hello, how-are-yous as we American in town, and though I'd been thrusting their business in his face with passed. quite happy with that for a year, coming the line of less determined off to one "Please tell Aisha to put the goats back to it all at once was a shock. I side, standing patiently in the belief that in the shed, it's going to rain," she hadn't yet rediscovered any of the parts they would be waited on sometime. I shouted at me over her shoulder as about it that I liked. joined the line, not yet feeling up to the she continued on her way. I spent most of the afternoon cluster experience. It took ten minutes or "OK," I said. writing letters, catching up on so, but this way I could stay inside the In that moment, such a feeling of correspondence that had piled up in my thick American shell that I still wasn't elation! And why, over something so mailbox while I was away. I was also willing to come out of. small and trivial? Because she said it conveniently avoiding the heat, and, to When I started back, the rain was in Arabic, not in French. Because she some degree, the village itself. At that looking like a sure thing. The breeze had didn't slow down or dress it up for moment it didn't feel like the place I become a wind. Little dust devils were speaking to a foreigner. Because she wanted to be. I stayed inside the thick, whirling around in the dirt streets, and said it to me in the same way she cool, stuccoed walls of my fine house. withered leaves twirled down from the would have said it to one of her own You see, mine wasn't the mud-hut sycamore trees that formed an arcade children, or one of her other Peace Corps experience. I lived in the over the wide, dilapidated street. Dark neighbors: without formality, without upstairs apartment of a beautiful clouds were bearing down from the any awareness that she was talking to colonial period villa in the part of the mountains to the south. I picked up my someone from the other side of the town that had been built by the French. pace, thinking that now I'd have to hurry world, but just saying it the way she Walnut trees lined the avenue outside, to get in before the rain. normally would say it. Because after and I could hear boys throwing stones Down the street, coming towards all I was only her neighbor, no one up into them, trying to knock down the me, was a woman wrapped in a strange or special. I was just the guy ripening fruit. turquoise jellaba. I recognized her as my who lived upstairs. A cool breeze from the mountains downstairs neighbor. She wasn't veiled picked up late in the afternoon, and her hood was off: this was only a intimating that it might bring some walk in the neighborhood and she clouds our way, along with a shower or
Photo courtesy of Jason Ben-Meir Page 20 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 15) reconciliation, so that the page of past The BCM-Wafabank group will be a supported many handicapped job- violations be turned definitively. key actor in Moroccan socio-economic seekers. The body will be in charge of development and will create http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/Dail pursuing the out-of-court settlement of investments funds in several sectors, y/Day/031203/2003120325.html Past human rights abuses related to support small and medium-sized forced disappearances and arbitrary enterprises, develop close contacts Moroccan-Jewish community council detention and complete a fair and with professional organizations, raises funds to assist Palestinian equitable rehabilitation of victims. promote the emergence of national hospitals The CCDH chairman assured that economic groups and increase The Council of Jewish Community in the resolve to turn the page will help population bankarization that hardly Morocco will organize next December 2 a consolidate the rule of the law, exceeds today 15%. fund-raising gala in Madrid to raise funds stressing how unique the Moroccan The merger was first initiated on for Palestinian hospitals. experience in the field is. November 24 when the BCM bought The event is also sponsored by the Azziman also hailed the action of for 2.08 billion DH the capital of OGM, Spanish "Mundo en Armonia" human rights associations underlining owned by the Kettani family. association chaired by princess Irene of that the divergence of views between http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/D Greece, the Spain-based Peres Center them and the CCDH is natural, since aily/Day/031202/2003120217.html for Peace and the Palestinian Health these associations aim for an "ideal Council. and absolute framework" while the Over 60% of maids aged below 15, The gala will feature songs that council is handling the question using study shows highlight the common basis of the Jewish concrete data. Over 60% of maids working in and Islamic-Moroccan cultures and Human rights minister, Casablanca are aged less than 15 merge the music of the two cultures in a Mohammed Aujjar, said the creation of years, and 84% of them are illiterate, recital that is an hymn for peace, "Equity and Reconciliation committee" says a study by the Moroccan tolerance and the acceptance of the evidences a genuine political Observatory of Children’s Rights other. determination to put an end to (ONDE). The concert, organized by chairman injustices, and Morocco's choice as far The figures were released by the of the Council of the Jewish community as democracy and human rights are Observatory during an encounter held in Morocco, Serge Berdugo, will include concerned. in Casablanca to examine the situation Sephardic Moroccan songs performed in The encounter features two of children in the Casablanca region. Arabic, Hebrew and Spanish by Francoise workshops. The first focuses on the ONDE’s study also found that 25% Atlan and Zoubeida Idrissi. context, significance and objectives of of children live with their families in a The concert was first performed the commission, while the second single room and another 40% live in a during Morocco's days in France in 2000 deals with the role of politicians and two-room dwelling. and is now played in many countries part human rights people in the equity and The study also found that 50% of of a world tour that started in May 2000 reconciliation process. the Moroccan children who were asked in Casablanca. The meeting gathered about their aspirations said they The event will take place at a time representatives of the CCDH, human dream of better understanding within when the international community is rights organizations, unions and the family and a good education. celebrating Saturday the international ministries. However, 5% of the children polled day of solidarity with the http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/D said that they are interested in the Palestinian people. aily/Day/031202/2003120218.html Association’s programs. http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/Dail Meanwhile, parents said they are y/Day/031201/2003120119.html Two major Moroccan banks merge mainly concerned by problems of The "Banque Commerciale du drugs and tobacco addiction for males, Morocco poised to definitively shelve Maroc" (BCM) and Wafabank, owned and rape and violence for girls. past human rights violations cases by the Kettani family, have decided to http://www.arabicnews.com/ansub/D Chairman of the Consultative Council merge to form a major financial group, aily/Day/031122/2003112214.html of Human Rights (CCDH), Omar Aziman, executives of the Kettani group and of said Monday Morocco is poised to shelve the BCM announced here Monday. US launches $3 million program to once and for all cases of past human The merger is to become effective fight child labor in Morocco rights violations, mainly through the next January, said the executives who The US has launched, in the creation of the "Equity and Reconciliation also announced that a takeover bid for framework of the currently negotiated Committee." 100% of Wafabank capital will be free trade agreement, with Morocco, a Speaking at the opening of an launched next March. US$3 million program to fight child encounter on the Committee, incepted BCM CEO, Khalid Oudghiri, said labor. last November 6, Azziman said the new the merger will not entail any layoff at "Initiative Education," which body serves the ultimate objective that is Wafabank. is subject to a partnership between the Page 21 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 12) Tayler is gracious enough to ask an alternately comic and horrific ended badly in Meknes, Morocco, forgiveness from one of the Ruddal account of a descent into nihilism. when he “ate a bad kebab and it guides with whom he has been in The Spider’s House (1955), the nearly killed me.” conflict, but he cannot resist telling us longest and most complex of Bowles’ Despite misgivings, he that he tipped both guides with “a wad of novels, is set against the end of French pragmatically returned to Morocco a bills.” rule in Morocco. Its characters—ranging year later as a Peace Corps Volunteer In the end, Tayler’s narrative feels from a Moroccan boy gifted with posted to Marrakesh. “My money had shaped more by disappointment than the spiritual healing power to an American run out and I had no other prospects elation to be expected from completing a writer who regrets the passing of for employment,” he wrote, and he grueling journey. If his dream was to traditional ways—are caught up in the wanted to resume exploring the Arab discover for himself Thesiger’s inner clash between colonial and nationalist world. It was during his two-year tour peace and the friendship of noble factions, and are forced to confront that Tayler first heard of the stark nomads, time and change may have cultural gulfs widened by political beauty of the upper Draa River Valley. thwarted him this time. But he will try violence. He also learned about the seductive again. The Library of America volume attractiveness of Moroccan women. Collected Stories and Later Writings In this book, Tayler seems to be in Vic Cox is a writer/editor at the University of offers his first collection, The Delicate search of another shimmering California, Santa Barbara and the author of Prey and Other Stories (1950), "in which seduction: Thesiger described an the young adult nonfiction reference books the reader is the detective; the mystery inner peace born out of desert Guns, Violence, and Teens and The Challenge is the motivation for the characters’ of Immigration. solitude and the “comradeship in a behavior." In such stories as "A Distant hostile world” from noble-spirited Episode" and "How Many Midnights," nomads. The Ruhhal Tayler travels Bowles: Sheltering Sky, Let Bowles pushes human character with and meets on his trek are of It Come Down, The Spiders beyond socially defined limits and maps much more common metal, House and Bowles: a transformed (often horribly concerned with caring for their Collected Stories and Later transformed) reality. A master of gothic camels, eating regularly, and Writings. Publish terror and an acute and at times stretching out their employment by August 2002 diabolically funny observer of manners adding time to the trek. Daniel Halpern (Editor) ). and motives both American and They also are curious, in varying Moroccan, Bowles confirmed his degrees, about this Christian (they This Library of America volume 134, mastery of the short story in such assume) who speaks fluent Moroccan containing his first three novels, with its volumes as A Hundred Camels in the Arabic and is walking across some of companion Collected Stories and Later Courtyard (1962), The Time of the most challenging territory in the Writings Vol. 135, is the first annotated Friendship (1967), Things Gone and country. A few of these devout edition of Bowles’ work, offering the full Things Still Here (1977), and Midnight Muslims even seek to convert him, range of his literary achievement: the Mass (1981), all included here along which he finds initially amusing, then portrait of an outsider who was one of with a selection of his final stories. annoying. the essential American writers of the last This volume also contains Up Above The protagonist in a story like this, half century. the World (1966), a frightening novella which offers none of the standard The Sheltering Sky (1949), which set in Latin America in which a trusting travel lore or information, always has remains Bowles’ most celebrated work, American couple are lured into an stage center, but Tayler reveals only describes the unraveling of a young, annihilating trap, and the informed and snapshots of his emotions, fragments sophisticated, and adventuresome fascinating travel book Their Heads Are of his values. We get little self- married couple as they make their way Green and Their Hands Are Blue reflection so it is difficult to see how into the Sahara. In a prose style of (1963). he is “enamored” by the land or its meticulous calm and stunning visual people. At times, he does not seem to precision, Bowles tracks Port and Kit like them very much, but that is most Moresby on a journey through the desert evident when he feels ill. that culminates in death and madness. Wherever he travels in this harsh In Let It Come Down (1952), Bowles land, for example, he finds hospitality plots the doomed trajectory of Nelson extended to the stranger, be it a cup Dyar, a New York bank teller who comes of mint tea or a full meal. While he to Tangier in search of a different life and notes the customary kindnesses, as ends up giving in to his darkest impulses. he does the ritual greetings and Rich in descriptions of the corruption and praise of God, he seems more likely decadence of the International Zone in to comment on the people’s lack of the last days before Moroccan hygiene. independence, Bowles’ second novel is Page 22 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 20) (Tunisia), Omisalj (Croatia), Saïda municipalities' expectations, US Labor Department and the (Lebanon,) et Jableh (Syria). From partnership offers and the Moroccan government, will be run by November 30 to December 2, 2003, all contributions of other United Nations the Management Systems those involved in the project - architects, agencies such as UN-Habitat, the International (MSI), which started urban planners, geologists, hydrologists, United Nations Environment working on the project in October local officials and UNESCO experts - will Programme (UNEP) and the United 2003. be evaluating its progress in Essaouira, Nations Development Programme The program aims at fostering at the invitation of Morocco. (UNDP). awareness of the importance of The project's main objective is to This UNESCO project associates education and mobilizing involved promote and propose alternative primarily the experts' networks of the parties to improve education solutions of sustainable sociocultural MOST Programme (Management of infrastructure. and environmental development to the Social Transformations), the IHP municipalities and ministries concerned. (International Hydrological Essaouira hosts evaluation meeting of On December 1, the mayors of the Programme) and the "Coastal Regions “urban development and freshwater case study cities will present the projects and Small Islands" Unit. It is based on resources: small historical coastal carried out in their towns since the principles of the Istanbul cities' project” UNESCO's activities in their municipality, Declaration (Habitat II, 1996) and the How to restore and preserve the such as expert missions and ICOMOS Charter on Historical Cities. historical heart of coastal cities, international seminars on Urban without driving away their inhabitants, development: a balance between Land, while respecting traditional building Sea and Society". The mayors and criteria as well as modern norms, with experts will attempt to evaluate the real the participation of local craftsmen impact of these interventions on political and the support of local and decisions taken by municipalities in the governmental authorities. That is the choice of new projects or the multiple challenge the "Urban reorientation of existing ones. Development and Freshwater On December 2, the experts will Resources: Small Historical Coastal formulate recommendations on the Cities" project is designed to meet. follow-up of the project. They will base UNESCO has been developing the their conclusions partly on the evaluation project since 1997 in five "case study" report of the Algerian geographer Rachid cities - Essaouira (Morocco), Mahdia Sidi Boumedine. They will also consider
(Continued from page 3) of the spouses... These reforms... should not be perceived as the victory of one side over the other but rather as gains for all Moroccans... The aim is to draw up a modern Family Law which is consistent with the spirit of our tolerant religion. - The Family Law should not be considered as a law designed exclusively for women but rather as a code for the family: father, mother and children. The proposed legislation is meant to reconcile lifting the iniquity imposed on women, protecting children's rights and safeguarding men's dignity. Would any of you tolerate seeing his family, King Mohamed Vi chairs the Ministers’ Council on Family Code Reform wife or children being thrown out of their homes into the street or his daughter or sister being ill-treated?" Page 23 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 13) provide training in facilitation, modern projects local communities design. participation in development is agriculture, health, fundraising, and Ambassadors serving in Muslim bringing together all the interested other skills desired by local people. nations should promote community parties into a dialogue process. An They can assist in reconciliation development by organizing donor “agency of coordination” is an among diverse groups. Centers are, in conferences, for example. There is a administrative framework that a sense, federalist institutions, since broad spectrum of prospective donors organizes and facilitates meetings they strengthen the capacity of because multiple sectors (economic, among communities, government communities to manage their own social, health, education, environment, agencies, and NGOs for planning and development. Clearly, they can play a etc.) are advanced in this development implementing development. It has the vital role in the reconstruction of Iraq. approach. As community resources flexibility to operate at local, provincial, 3. Fruit and Forestry Tree- improve, outside funding becomes less national, and international levels in Planting and Irrigation Improvements: n e c e s s a r y . order to negotiate partnerships that Around the world, tree-planting is USAID’s Middle East Regional promote the objectives of regularly identified by communities Cooperation program (MERC), communities. Whether such an (urban and rural) to be a top priority. established as a result of the Camp agency is governmental, an NGO, a Indeed, trees provide income, jobs, David peace accords, funds projects consortium of NGOs, etc. is food, and environment enhancement. that primarily involve Arab-Israeli joint determined by its host-country. Modern irrigation maximizes the utility technological development. In order to An agency of coordination can also of water supplies, increases yields, advance regional collaboration during play a vital role in facilitating Arab- lays a foundation for potable water, this critical time, MERC should fund Israeli development cooperation. For and, by bringing water to land once projects according to the quality of example, several years ago when there barren, creates the opportunity to build Arab-Israeli partnership, regardless of was less tension in the Middle East, schools, clinics, and other service whether there is a technological Moroccan-Israeli collaboration could centers. The international community component. In addition, the transfer of potentially take place. Procedurally, should fund tree planting and irrigation technology is a primary criterion to however, this would require the improvements in viable areas and receive Israeli MASHAV’s assistance. interested Moroccans to contact communities across the Muslim world. This often gives the impression to Arab directly the Israeli liaison office in Importantly, planting a tree is neighbors of serving Israeli interests Rabat (currently closed) and make a considered an “act of faith” in Islam rather than the people they are trying request for assistance. Many and instills genuine trust between local to help. Projects that communities Moroccans interested in working with people and funders because of the design to meet their needs most often Israelis feel uncomfortable long-term benefits it provides for do not require the imports of establishing initial direct contact. On individual families. technology. When new technology is the other hand, the Israeli MASHAV 4. Encourage Political Parties that needed, for example pressure/drip (the aid wing of their Foreign Ministry) Pursue the Goals of Communities: irrigation systems for agricultural cannot initiate contact, as this would Political parties that pursue the communities, it is a matter of diffusion be interfering in Moroccan internal development goals of communities will of a technology that already exists affairs. This condition that makes succeed because their platform within the country. direct dialogue difficult to attain reflects the priorities of local people. International support for the above explains, in part, why in over 20 years Of course, it is not for the international initiatives will encourage more trustful of Israeli-Egyptian peace there has community to determine political and productive relations and enhance been little development cooperation. processes within a nation. However, in security by bringing real opportunity to An agency of coordination (perhaps in Iraq where the U.S. is helping to create millions of people. Such initiatives this case an international NGO that a new political structure, encouraging represent public diplomacy at its best can contact both Arab and Israeli political parties to be primarily because of the essential mutual officials) can provide the needed role responsive to the goals of local benefits they bring. of catalyzing dialogue and helping to communities will dramatically help the create productive partnerships that nation achieve its development Jason Ben-Meir is completing his Ph.D. and benefit local communities. potential. In the long-term, the power teaches sociology at the University of New 2. Es t a b l i s h Co m m u n i t y of example is the most effective and Mexico. He is a former Peace Corps Development Planning and Training genuine way of encouraging Morocco Volunteer and is currently president of the High Atlas Foundation, a Centers: These centers, which are responsive politics in the Muslim non-profit that assists community located in communities and locally world. development in Morocco. He is also managed, facilitate an interactive 5. Funding Campaigns for president of the Diversity Institute, a non- process that helps communities Community Development: Funding is profit that promotes development and determine their priority needs and needed for agencies of coordination, reconciliation in the U.S. The views design and implement projects that planning and training centers, and, to expressed in this article are the author’s meet those needs. Centers also the largest degree, implementing and not necessarily of the organizations he works for nor Friends of Morocco. Are you still an FOM member?
Membership in Friends of Morocco brings you, in addition to all issues of our newsletter, special mailings announcing the annual meeting, reunions, seminars, and special Moroccan arts and craft showings. Friends of Morocco Newsletter is published quarterly by the Friends Membership also brings you the satisfaction of contributing to the goals of Morocco and is circulated to its members and other interested and aims of Friends of Morocco. At least once a year we do a system- parties. The organization was formed in 1988 to reunite PCVs who have served in Morocco, to inform members about current events wide mailing to keep our address database accurate and to give people and conditions in Morocco, to promote a better understanding of the opportunity to join us. The mailing label below indicates when your Morocco and Moroccans on the part of Americans, and to fund or membership expires otherwise support development activities in Morocco. Membership is $15 annually. FOM is governed by a five-member national advi- If you have not paid your membership dues of $15.00 (individual) sory board. Mailing address: Friends of Morocco, P.O. Box 2579, annually to the Friends of Morocco, please consider doing that now. We Washington, DC 20013-2579. For further information, contact appreciate any additional contributions and recognize special president Tim Resch at 703-660-9292 or by email
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