On Exhibit at the International Swimming Hall of Fame From Bloomer’s to Bikini’s: How the sport of Swimming Changed Western Culture In the 20th Century

From Bloomer’s to Bikini’s: How the lapse, swimming fell out of favor in the the body and led Sport of Swimming Changed Western Christian west. The Popes also railed to a sound night’s Society in the 20th Century, is a multi- against the sexual excesses of the Roman sleep. Because media exhibit that demonstrates how baths and equated both nudity and swim- Franklin, like all swimming acted as the most significant ming with sin. During the Middle Ages male swimmers of cultural force in the women’s rights open air bathing was thought to be a his time, swam in movement of the 20th Century. This cause of the plague. the nude, swim- exhibit demonstrates how the sport of ming was deemed swimming changed the way women Interest in swimming revived somewhat inappropriate for dressed, thought about themselves and during the Age of Exploration when women until, tra- Illustration of an 1860’s women’s the way society thought about women sailors thought it dition has it, one bathing gown. While the gown and their role in society. The exhibit pri- might be a good of Franklin’s female enabled women to bathe, it made swimming impossible. marily focuses on four women swimmers idea to know how admirers threw who broke through the social and moral to swim before herself into the Seine fully dressed. barriers that held women back during the stepping on board While this popularized public bathing for Victorian era: Annette Kellerman, the their ships. But women it did not lead to swimming Australian beauty who was possibly the the interest in because the “Bathing Gowns” that con- most influential female cultural icon of swimming was formed to the “Biblical modesty” were the 20th Century; Charlotte Epstein, a confined to so bulky and heavy that they made swim- New York City court reporter who forced coastal seafaring ming impossible. women’s sports on the American communities and Olympic Committee; Gertrude Ederle, The baths of Carracula in Rome, was exclusively in In the late 1800’s, the Bloomer costume where men and women swam who accomplished the single greatest nude together and brothels the domain of appeared. The bloomer was a more func- athletic feat by a woman and who proved adjoined the pools. males, who swam tional costume, but as the popularity of that women were capable of competing in the nude. By the beginning of the 18th seaside bathing increased, Victorian in strenuous activities equally with men; Century, bathing for therapeutic purpos- moralists saw danger in the attempts to and Donna deVarona, the California girl es became popular with the rich and devise a more practical swimming cos- whose compelling testimony before con- famous at thermal springs and spas tume and the mixing of boys and girls gress lead to the passage of Title IX leg- throughout Europe. But most people still and men and islation, fostering equitable opportunities bathed infrequently and the typical women in the for women in sports, the classroom and "swim" was little more than a brief dip in water. They wor- in the workplace. the water. ried about the dangerous sexual A Brief History of Swimming – From One of the first popularizers of swim- arousal in males Ancient Times to 1904 ming in the 18th Century was Benjamin that might follow Franklin. In fact, swimming was respon- a chance glimpse Swimming was so important in the sible for young Ben’s first inventions, of the female ancient world that both the Greeks and hand paddles and swim fins. In London, form and warned The Bloomer bathing costume, Romans stigmatized people who were in the early 1700’s, Franklin created that mixed bathing circa 1900. uneducated and uncivilized by saying something of a sensation with his swims would undermine the “moral fabric that they could “neither read nor swim.” in the Thames. Later, when serving as of society.” Swimming was the Ambassador enjoyed through- to France during What makes this story relevant today is out the Roman the American that the sermons and speeches of the Empire by both Revolution, Christian moralists of the Victorian era men and women Franklin would (1850 – 1901) sound nearly identical to of all classes and swim before those of today’s modern Islamic funda- when they bathed, going to bed on mentalist clerics. Like in many parts of it was in the nude. hot summer the Islamic world today, Victorian Greek Coin, circa 193 A.D. com- memorating the myth of Hero and After Rome’s col- nights and wrote women had limited legal rights, limited Leander. how this cooled educational and occupational opportuni- 58 ties and no right to vote. Their place was servers were rotten and useless. As the switch to vaudeville. Billed as "The in the home and they were expected to be fire spread toward the stern, the crew Diving Venus," and "The Australian submissive and subservient to their abandoned ship, leaving the women and Mermaid," she performed swimming and fathers and husbands. In matters of children to fend for themselves. Forced diving feats, in a glass tank, dressed in a dress, modesty, not practicality was the to choose between the fire and the water, figure hugging one piece bathing suit, at prime concern. Athletics were considered many jumped into the East River. The the London Hippodrome. She also unfeminine and unhealthy for women end result was that nearly a thousand of invented a new art and when it came to swimming, mixed the passengers, almost all of whom were form - underwater bathing was prohibited and obscenity women and girls, drowned because they ballet, the precursor laws required dark, non-form revealing were unable to swim less than fifty yards of synchronized costumes that covered the body from to shore. Thus began a civil rights move- swimming. head to toe -- restrictions that made ment - the right of self-preservation by learning to swim nearly impossible. knowing how to swim - that would shake In 1907, Annette and the foundations of Western Civilization. her father left What changed our world was a disaster London to seek of catastrophic proportions that triggered Annette Kellerman greater fame and for- a chain of events to move our society You may never have heard of Annette tune in America. Annette Kellerman out of the Victorian era and into the Kellerman. Many New York theater modern times. people haven't, operators, however, were not impressed even though, I and found her swimming costumes Before 1904, most people thought that would argue, she offensive to American moral sensibili- when ships sank, the ability to swim was perhaps the ties. In spite of the General Slocum dis- made little dif- most significant aster little progress had been made in ference as all cultural influence teaching women to swim and Annette on board typi- of the 20th was appalled by the cumbersome dress cally perished. Century. Annette and pantaloon combinations that pre- So it didn’t Kellerman was an vented American women from swim- matter if Australian beauty ming. "I can't swim wearing more stuff women knew who - long before Elle Macpherson - was than you hang on a clothesline," she how to swim. known as “The Perfect Woman.” She was reportedly said before walking on to But in 1904 a a self-promoter who - long before Revere Beach near Boston wearing a one curious set of Madonna - got herself arrested, knowing piece bathing suit that exposed her circumstances the commercial value of sensation. A shapely form and bare legs. It was an act would demon- thespian who - long before Nicole of defiance that resulted in her arrest and strate the utili- Kidman - was a Queen of the Screen. imprisonment for “indecent exposure.” ty of knowing And, a fitness guru who - long before The General Slocum disaster was how to swim Jane Fonda - showed middle-aged When her case came to trial she admitted the subject of a recent book, Ship Ablaze, by Edward O’Donnell. and the differ- women how to keep fit and beautiful. violating the law but asked the judge how ences in the many more women would have to die ability of men and women to survive in Annette Kellerman was born in Sydney, because they didn’t learn to swim? the water. Australia in 1886, the daughter of a “What difference is there from these music professor. She was crippled with legal costumes than wearing led chains It was on June 15th, 1904 that St. Mark’s polio at two and had to wear leg braces around our legs?” She brought to court a Lutheran Church, a German-American until she was seven. Her doctor recom- man’s suit onto which she had sown leg- parish in lower Manhattan, chartered the mended that she take up swimming to gings, making a one piece suit that tech- excursion boat General Slocum for its strengthen her limbs and by the time she nically conformed to the law, which annual church picnic. Because the 15th was 16 held the world record in the 100- required women to be covered from neck was a Wednesday, a work day, few men meters. Then she moved to marathon to toe. The sympathetic judge agreed to and older boys were among the more swimming, setting records in distances drop the charges against her, in return for than 1,400 passengers when the Slocum never before attempted by a woman. To her promise to only wear this swimsuit. left its South Street dock, bound for a help her cash strapped family, she left The resulting newspaper headlines and picnic ground on the north shore of Long Australia with her father, with the hope outpourings of public support tolled a Island. Ten minutes after passing under of earning money as a professional death-knell for Victorian attitudes the Williamsburg Bridge, a fire broke out swimmer in England. She startled towards women's swimwear and fashion in the bow of the old steamer. The cap- Londoners by swimming 17 miles down and gave young women and girls a role tain, perhaps afraid of setting the city on the Thames in five hours. In Paris she model and encouraged them to swim. It fire, did not pull into a dock, but sailed raced against 17 men down the Seine, also made Annette Kellerman a star. on up the river. He ordered the crew to finishing second. She was the first man the fire hoses and distribute life pre- woman to ever try swimming the English Then in 1909, a Harvard academic servers, but both the hoses and pre- Channel. Now famous, she flicked the announced that after examining and 59 measuring 10,000 different women he society’s ancient lie that women were not ized shortly after had found the one woman who most capable of strenuous physical activities. the Slocum disas- closely matched classical physical per- By her example, she changed the way ter and it taught fection. That woman was Annette women dressed, the way they thought of girls and women Kellerman. Now billed as the “Perfect themselves, the way society thought how to swim and Woman” she titillated standing room about them and popularized swimming basic lifesaving only audiences of nearly 6,000 people at as a physical activity for women. As skills. Possessing New York’s Hippodrome theater in her Buck Dawson said upon her induction great leadership, diaphanous, figure-hugging costumes by into the International Swimming Hall of managerial and swimming, diving and performing Fame in 1975, she was “Swimming’s all- promotional skills, underwater ballet in a glass tank. time greatest saleswoman” and was one Epstein soon became Charlotte Epstein of the most important cultural figures of the League’s chair- In 1914 the infant film industry beck- the 20th Century. woman. oned her to Hollywood where she was hailed by Tinseltown's publicity machine Memorabilia/materials on display: In those days women did not compete in as a modern-day Diana and Venus de 1. Black woolen one piece bathing suit strenuous athletics. It was not consid- Milo. She wrote a script for a film called worn by Annette Kellerman (shown on ered healthy for girls to overexert them- Neptune's Daughter (1914), which cost a mannequin) selves. People thought it was a great modest $35,000 to make but which was 2. Red cape, worn by Annette Kellerman mistake, that girls would ruin their the first film to gross $1 million in tick- (shown on mannequin) health, that they would never have chil- et sales. A Daughter of the Gods (1916), 3. Red sequined pants and vest, worn by dren, and that they would be sorry for it starring Annette Kellerman, was the first Annette Kellerman in underwater shows later on. It was also thought that athlet- Hollywood production to cost over $1 4. Kellerman books and trading cards (on ics would make women muscular and million. The film had a cast of over loan from Chuck Kroll) unfeminine. While the Slocum disaster 20,000 extras and sets were half a mile 5. “Annette Kellerman Medal Cup” – a provided women with an opportunity to long. In this film Annette created some- silver cup presented by Annette become swimmers and Annette thing of a scandal with skinny-dipping Kellerman to Gertrude Ederle in 1926 K ellerman scenes that lead to a formal banning of 6. Annette Kellerman movie poster (on became an iconic nude scenes in the motion picture indus- loan from Chuck Kroll) role model for try. But it also made her an internation- 7. Swimsuit worn by Annette Kellerman the new woman, al star. For almost ten years, she was the in the 1930’s there was still a highest paid working woman in the 8.Documentary DVD, “The Original great deal of world, earning as much as $5,000 a Mermaid” publicity against week. 9. Photo with Esther Williams on the set women compet- of “Million Dollar Mermaid” ing in athletics. In 1918, she wrote a book, titled Physical 10.Volumes of “Physical Instruction” (on It was in this social environment that Beauty and How To Keep It, and for the loan from Chuck Kroll) Charlotte Epstein organized the Women’s next twenty-five years she traveled the 11. Esther Williams exhibits Swimming Association (WSA) of New world with her aquatic ballet shows, pio- York, in 1917. It was the first all neering synchronized swimming and Charlotte Epstein, Gertrude Ederle and women’s sport- anticipating the spectacular routines usu- the Women’s Swimming Association ing club formed ally identified with Busby Berkeley and The best known group of girl athletes in in the USA for Esther Williams. Even then, she had one the United States in the first half of the the purpose of last innovation, 20th Century, were not tennis players, training cham- launching what golfers, runners or volleyball players, but pion swim- she called Physical swimmers. This was, of course, due to in mers. Aware of Instruction by part to Annette Kellerman, the sex appeal the publicity Mail, the forerun- of young attractive women in bathing against women ner of the keep fit suits and to various gentlemen responsi- as athletes, she video. ble for picture taking and publishing. made sure her But it was also due to the efforts of girls were In 1952, MGM Charlotte Epstein, the founder of the paragons of released, “Million Women’s Swimming Association (WSA) virtue. The Dollar Mermaid,” of New York City. motto of the Gertrude Ederle helping her mother with dishes the true-life story of organization Annette Kellerman, starring Esther Williams. Charlotte Epstein was a 26 year old was “Sportsmanship before winning” Manhattan courtroom stenographer and Epstein made sure the girls were Annette Kellerman was the first great when she joined the local branch of the taught table manners, how to dress and professional woman athlete and she was nascent National Women’s Life Saving how to be ladies in the pool and out. She the first important woman to challenge League in 1911. The League was organ- had them photographed helping their 60 mothers with housework. 3. A collection of WSA scrapbooks, let- swim. In August ters and documents of 1925, the two Internationally, women had gained limit- 4. Photographs of Epstein and WSA ladies departed ed acceptance as athletes. In 1900 six members for England, but women were allowed to give exhibitions at 5. WSA swimsuits and other memorabilia their dreams were the Olympic Games in gymnastics and dashed when their tennis and in 1912 two swimming events Gertrude Ederle British guide for women were included on the Since prehistoric times, the English caused her to be Olympic program. But neither the Channel has been a barrier that has tan- disqualified by Amateur Athletic Union of the United talized the imaginations of mankind. At touching her mid- States (A.A.U.) or the American its narrowest point, it’s a 21 mile strait of way in the chan- Gertrude Ederle (l), the first Olympic Committee recognized female cold, forbidding waters that separates nel. The supreme- woman to swim across the English Channel, receiving the athletics and no American women were Europe from England. The most primi- ly determined Annette Kellerman Trophy from sent to the Games in Stockholm. tive means for crossing the Channel, of Ederle returned Annette (r) in 1926. course, is swimming, and years before the next year to In 1917, under pressure from the W.S.A. Mt. Everest was discovered, swimming try again and on August 14, 1926, she and other sporting groups, the A.A.U. the English Channel was identified as successfully swam the Channel from formally, but begrudgingly recognized nature’s greatest physical challenge to Calais, France to Dover, England. It women swimmers. It was the only sport mankind. It wasn’t until 1872 that the wasn’t just that she did what was thought recognized for women, and Charlotte first person actually impossible for a woman, or that she beat Epstein became the organization’s first attempted to swim the best time by a man by over two hours, female program chairwoman. There across the Channel but she proved to the world that women were conditions however: the women and when Matthew had the stamina to participate in physi- had to be covered from neck to toe Webb actually did it cally demanding activities and a level (wearing the “Kellerman suit”); this suit three years later, he equal to men. Today, it is almost impos- had to be covered by a robe immediately became a world- sible to imagine the excitement her feat before and after their races, and they wide celebrity. The generated, could not compete in the presence of any international fame but when she men except officials of the A.A.U. Webb claimed returned inspired many imi- home to New Knowing that the dress code adopted by tators (including York City, it the A.A.U. would handicap the American Annette Kellerman), was as the girls when competing at the Olympic but over the next 50 most famous Games, Epstein collaborated with sever- years only five men woman in the al New York Newspapers in 1919 to stage were able to repli- w estern a dramatic protest reminiscent of Annette cate Webb’s accom- world. Over John D. Rockefellar, Jr. wishing Gertrude Kellerman’s Revere Beach theatrics. plishment. 2 million good luck in the Olympic Games Before a crew of photographers, New Yorkers America’s two greatest women swim- It was at the 1924 Olympic Games in lined Broadway to greet her and she mers, Charlotte Boyle and Ethelda Paris when Epstein came up with the received the greatest ticker tape parade in Bleibtry, appeared on Manhattan Beach idea of making a dramatic political state- history. Her feat was a landmark in the without stockings and were arrested for ment about the physical capabilities of women’s rights movement was the great- “nude swimming.” The papers had a women. The idea was for Handley to est single athletic feat by a woman in his- field day and the public outrage not only train a girl to swim across the English tory. led to the girls’ release, but released Channel on the 50th anniversary of American women from stockings Webb’s success. And not only would a Memorabilia/materials on display forevermore. woman cross it, but because the five suc- 1. Two-piece bathing suit worn by Ederle cessful men all swam the breaststroke, a during her English Channel swim Swimmers and divers were the only slow stroke in comparison to the modern 2. Documentary video of her English women athletes to represent the U.S.A. at crawl stroke Handley’s girls were using, Channel Swim by Bud Greenspan the both the 1920 and 1924 Olympic they were convinced that a woman could 3. Assorted trophies and medals won by Games and they dominated. cross the Channel in a time faster than all Ederle Epstein’s next great publicity stunt would the successful men. 4. Original photographs and newspaper result in the greatest athletic feat ever Gertrude Ederle had entered the 1924 articles/scrapbooks accomplished by a woman. Olympic Games as a favorite to win three gold medals, but returned only with a Donna deVarona Memorabilia/materials on display bronze medal and relay gold. She had In 1964, there were two great aquatic 1.Women’s swim suits worn by WSA something to prove and it was this plucky stars who between them won a total of members daughter of a German butcher who was six Gold medals at the Tokyo Olympic 2. Lou Handley swimming books selected by Epstein for the Channel Games. Both were young, blond and 61 attractive. They appeared on the cover of Life Magazine together. They swam for the same swim club in Santa Clara, California and graduated from high school in the class of ‘64. While it would appear that the same opportu- nities would present them- selves to these two great ath- letes, there was one difference

In 1964, Don Schollander and Donna that made the de Varona were the two stars of the same bright Olympic Games. future impossi- ble at the time: one was a male and the other a female.

Their names were Don Schollander and Donna de Varona. After returning home from Tokyo, Don went on to swim at Yale for four years and in 1968 added two more Olympic gold medals to his collec- tion. For Donna, there were no scholar- ships or varsity swimming programs in college for women in those days. Don’t feel sorry for her though. While she did- n’t have the same opportunities as Don to swim in college, she became the first female sports reporter for a major net- work (ABC) and has enjoyed a long and successful career in the broadcast indus- try. And, she became a beacon in the campaign for gender equity. She told her story to the nation’s legislators in private and to public forums and her testimony before congress played an important role in the passage of Title IX, which has opened the doors for athletic, education- al and professional opportunities for mil- lions of girls and women since its pas- sage in 1972.

Memorabilia/materials on display 1. Extensive collection of photographs, swimsuits, awards, medals and certifi- cates.

62