Macro with Mirrorless Cameras :: Peter Hughes Profile :: Amanda Brisbane Portfolio British Columbia Southern Gulf Islands

GLOBAL EDITION Lermontov Wreck May 2013 Number 54 Japan Yonaguni Jima Finland Ojamo Mine Seals of Farne Islands costa rica Expedition The Maldives Cocos1 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 Island cover photo by michael aw DIRECTORY X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS Frederiksberg, Denmark www.xray-mag.com

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SENIOR EDITOR Peter Symes Michael Symes, PhD - Science Ochre sea stars, Swordfish Island, British Columbia. Photo by Barb Roy [email protected] SECTION EDITORS PUBLISHER, MANAGING EDITOR Michael Arvedlund, PhD - Ecology contents & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Scott Bennett - Travel, Sharks Gunild Symes Andrey Bizyukin, PhD - Features [email protected] Larry Cohen - Photo & Video Kelly LaClaire - Marine Mammals Associate editors Catherine Lim - News, Books Scott Bennett, Toronto Roz Lunn - Equipment News [email protected] Bonnie McKenna - Turtles Catherine GS Lim, Singapore Michael Menduno - Tech [email protected] Robert Osborne - Features, Profiles Michael Menduno, Berkeley Don Silcock - Photo & Video [email protected] Barb Roy, Vancouver Columnists [email protected] Gretchen Ashton - Dive Fitness Pascal Bernabé - Tech Talk Russia - Moscow Leigh Cunningham - Tech Talk Andrey Bizyukin, PhD Andy Murch - Shark Tales [email protected] Mark Powell - Tech Talk Svetlana Murashkina, PhD Cindy Ross - GirlDiver [email protected] Cedric Verdier - Tech Talk Lawson Wood - UW Photography ASSISTANT editors Roz Lunn, London Contributors this issue [email protected] Antti Apunen Robert Osborne, Toronto Gretchen M. Ashton [email protected] Michael Aw Don Silcock, Sydney Pascal Bernabé [email protected] Scott Bennett Amanda Brisbane USA Kevin Davidson Larry Cohen, New York City Wayne Grant [email protected] Farhat Jah Kelly LaClaire, Portland Kelly LaClaire [email protected] Bonnie McKenna, Houston Catherine GS Lim [email protected] Gareth Lock Rosemary 'Roz' Lunn ADVERTISING Bonnie McKenna UNITED KINGDOM Matthew Meier 8 14 18 20 29 plus... Rosemary E Lunn, London Paul Morrall Le r m o n t o v Wr e c k So Yo u Wa n t t o Be a Th e Ma l d i v e s Co c o s Is l a n d So u t h e r n Gu l f Is l a n d s EDITORIAL 3 [email protected] Mark Powell Ne w Ze a l a n d Sc u b a In s t r u c t o r ... Expedition Co s t a Ri c a British Co l um b i a NEWS 4 Ila France Porcher b y e v i n a v i d s o n b y t e v e e w i s b y i c h a e l w b y a t t h e w e i e r b y a r b o y USA & INTERNATIONAL Barb Roy K D S L M A M M B R WRECK RAP 8 Susan Kochan, Orlando Don Silcock TRAINING 14 [email protected] Chris Sterrit Matthew Meier, San Diego Janne Suhonen 36 40 49 55 89 TRAVEL NEWS 17 [email protected] Gunild Symes Pr o f i l e : Diving w i t h Se a l s Oj a m o Mi n e OzTe k 2013: Po r t f o l i o : EQUIPMENT NEWS 35 Peter Symes e t e r u g h e s i n l a n d a l e s o f a r i n g o Undersea Hunter Group P H Fa r n e Is l a n d s F T 'D D ' Am a n d a Br i s b a n e TURTLE TALES 45 Lawson Wood b y Pe t e r Sy m e s b y La w s o n Wo o d b y An t t i Apu n e n b y Ro s e m a r y 'Ro z ' E. Lu n n Ed i t e d b y Gu n i l d Sy m e s BOOKS & MEDIA 47 Contacts page: Xray-Mag.com MARINE MAMMALS 65 Not yet subscribed to SHARK TALES 68 columns... X-RAY MAG? Sign up now! PHOTO NEWS 80 SUBSCRIPTION X-RAY MAG International Edition in English is FREE It’s FREE! QUICK! EASY! To subscribe, go to: www.xray-mag.com 61 73 77 82 click here... Fi t n e s s Pr o g r a m s Te c h Ta l k : On e f o r Al l UWP: Ma c r o w i t h Un i q u e Di v e Si t e : COVER PHOTO: Diver encounters manta ray, Maldives f o r Di v e r s o r Al l f o r On e ? Mi r r o r l e s s Ca m e r a s Yo n a g u n i Ji m a , Ja p a n Photo by Michael Aw b y Gr e t c h e n As h t o n b y Ma r k Po w e l l b y Do n Si l c o c k b y Fa r h a t Ja h

2 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Singapore Tacoma Toronto Vancouver Warsaw Editorial Rec-tekkies — The Advent of a New Diving Middle-Class

Some 1½ years ago, on 31 Dec personal interests lay more in is for everybody, 2011 to be exact, I participated the areas of photography and because it isn’t, and most of us in a New Year's dive event at one ecology. But the training I have probably shouldn’t go there. But of the nearby beaches. It was a undertaken over the years we should all take notice of the fine day—frosty, theatrically misty has provided me with skills, lessons learned from tech and, and perfectly still, with the surface experience and confidence to where we can, adapt and use being smooth as a mirror. conduct challenging dives and to the techniques and new gear to handle various scenarios. make all of our dives safer and The location was rather shallow more rewarding. and sheltered and was a popular Together with having good site for basic training. Looking equipment this instills in me —The X-RAY MAG Team around me at the odd 50 divers both a sense of confidence gathered for of the and calmness, which ultimately year, I saw twin-tanks, sidemounts, translates into pleasure and ability Set your course for success big dive-lights with canisters to immerse myself into the sense at the ONLY international and Goodman handles. At of adventure and exploration trade-only event for diving, first, I almost giggled because of which all dives have some action watersports and travel everyone was surely overdressed element—even those I have done professionals! for the occasion—I don’t think many times before. it was possible to deeper than seven meters. At a glance, it just That event also made me realise looked rather silly, like they were how the advent of ‘recreational showing off. tech’ in the recent years quite evidently has been both softening But then I realised that I was also and bridging the once significant diving a twin tank, twin regulators gap between recreational and and all the rest of my usual kit. technical diving. And why not? All my ‘usual stuff’ is what I am comfortable As such, I also suspect and with and routinely use. I know hope that it represents a new where everything is, everything opportunity for the dive industry November 6–9, 2013 is adjusted, balanced and to once more inject a sense of Orlando, Florida weighted just to my comfort. It adventure and achievement into is also the exact same gear that diving—two important elements Orange County Convention Center I can use for deeper and more that have been somewhat demanding dives, on which I diluted since diving was made have also received some of my immediately accessible to almost advanced training. everyone and presumably made it a less coveted activity. I do not consider myself a facebook.com/DEMAShow linkedin.com/company/dema-org pinterest.com/demashow twitter.com/DEMA_Show technical diver, and I will This is a development this probably never venture very magazine both welcomes and far into this realm because my supports. This is not to say that

3 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Peter A. Hughes, Founder from the deep

News edited by Peter Symes NEWS LIVE-ABOARDS!

Unravelling the Coelacanth The coral bots are coming Scientists have decoded the DNA of the celebrated "living fossil" fish, gaining new insights into how today's mammals, and it takes dec- Kickstarter to raise funds, hoping amphibians, reptiles and birds evolved from a fish ancestor. ades for them to to raise GB£70,000 (US$107,000) re-grow. When before June. Coelacanths were thought to have Gombassa Project they get dam- gone extinct in the Late Cretaceous As of this issue goes to press a 40- aged, divers Tested technology some 70 million years ago, but were day expedition named Gombessa can some- The robots have already been rediscovered in 1938 when a live Project after the coelacanths local times be tested at sea, but the team is specimen was was found off the name is under way. The expedi- deployed keen to move to the next stage— east coast of South Africa. In 1999, tion, which is led by French marine to re- giving them computer vision to a second extant species was de- biologist Laurent Ballesta and spon- cement "see" healthy bits of coral and scribed from Manado, North Su- sored by Swiss dive-watch maker broken design arms to pick up and put lawesi, Indonesia. Blancpain. fragments, down the pieces in the right plac- Analysis shows its genes have helping es. been remarkably slow to change, Close encounters them re-grow "Kickstarter funds will let us an international team of research- The coelacanth is quite rare; living But this is very purchase and assemble this kit, ers reported in the journal Nature. more than 100m down, it is a hard time consuming and and allow us to conduct our first Like lungfish, the other surviving creature to study. The Gombessa mostly conducted live demonstration of the robot lineage of lobe-finned fishes, coe- expedition, which is the result of by volunteers. Also this team on a coral in a public lacanths are actually more closely two years’ scientific research, logis- method is restricted to aquarium," said marine biologist related to humans and other tical and human preparations, will shallow depths and is not appli- and Coralbot team member Lea- mammals than to ray-finned fishes enable observations and scientific Underwater robots tasked , Bay Islands with saving coral reefs cable to deep water corals. Anne Henry. "This will provide a such as tuna and trout. Ancient experiments to be carried out in Coralbots on the other hand will conservation that paves lobe fins were the first vertebrates contact with a living coelacanth. are being developed at be a lot more efficient, able to the way for restoration to brave the land, and the coe- in order to make direct contact Heriot-Watt University in repair the reefs in days or weeks, across the globe." lacanth genome is expected to with this enigmatic creature, Ball- Scotland. but as so often before, funding the team has developed sever- reveal much about the origins of esta and his team of divers have to DESTINATIONS! has been a challenge. Therefore, al different coralbot models, but tetrapods, the evolutionary line perform daily deep water dives to Corals are delicate structures that the team of scientists behind plans to work with one dubbed, that gave rise to amphibians, rep- Jesser Canyon caves, 120 metres are easily damaged by pollution the coral bot are now turning Nessie. ■ tiles, birds and mammals, says lead below the surface entailing long and destructive fishing practices, to the crowd-sourcing website ► Coralbots on Kickstarter author Chris Amemiya, a biologist hours of . ■ at the University of Washington in www.DivEncounters.com Seattle.

4 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO I I I I I Remote reef underwent fast recovery Worldwide Adventures news from bleaching event Space Available! Isolated coral reefs can recover from catastrophic damage as effectively as those with nearby undisturbed neighbours. Whale Australia’s largest oceanic lected and analysed by the reef system, Scott Reef—a researchers shows how after the Shark remote coral system in the 1998 mass bleaching the few Indian Ocean—has largely remaining corals provided low recovered from a catastrophic numbers of recruits (new cor- Season mass bleaching event in 1998, als) for Scott Reef. On that basis, according to the study just recovery was projected to take published in Science. decades, yet within 12 years the coral reef recovery from major cover and diversity of corals had disturbance is hypothesized to recovered to levels similar to depend on the arrival of prop- those seen pre-bleaching. June-December 2013 agules from nearby undisturbed the initial increase in coral reefs. Therefore, reefs isolated by cover was the result of high rates distance or patterns are of growth and survival of remnant thought to be highly vulnerable to colonies, followed by a rapid

P ete r S ym e s catastrophic disturbance. increase in juvenile recruitment as Seagrasses may reduce the acidity of water around reefs, protecting them from erosion Spanning 15 years, data col- colonies matured. ■ +1-706-993-2531 www.aggressor.com Seagrasses reduce seawater acidity Resilience to ocean acidification www.dancerfleet.com Seagrasses may reduce the acidity of water around reefs, protecting them from erosion. found in microscopic plants Research headed by Dr Richard benthic and epiphytic faunal the requirement to conserve One species of a tiny single celled marine AB U -M L N R A E S D O A R P

Unsworth a Swansea University communities. seagrass meadows is commonly I T coccolithophore actually had bigger shells in S marine biologists have found increasing water depth and overlooked by the need to put high carbon dioxide seawater conditions. S MA RT varieties of seagrass that can mixing rates will serve to reduce meagre resources into charis- photosynthesise carbon dioxide the impact of net seagrass DIC matic habitats such as coral reefs. A group of marine scientists led by the tiny single-celled Mabul Resort so quickly and efficiently that uptake suggesting that seagrass However, seagrass meadows not U.S. Univerisity of California-Santa marine coccolithophore, they actually turn the surrounding meadows where water is shallow only provide ecological func- Barbara professor Debora Iglesias- Emiliania huxleyi, actually water more alkaline. and water movement is reduced tions of nursery refugia for coral Rodriguez has found a point of had bigger shells in within many shallow fringing may have a higher capacity to al- reef fauna, they also provide an resilience in a microscopic shelled high carbon dioxide reef-flat environments, corals are ter seawater carbonate chemistry. environment potentially beneficial plant with a massive seawater conditions. commonly found in close asso- Although there are many for calcifying fauna, a role that is environmental While the team www.sipadanmabulresort.com ciation with seagrasses, either as tropical reef systems adjacent to likely to increase in the future. This impact, which acknowledges that CAVERN & COURSES PRIVATE VIDEO isolated colonies, or forming a productive seagrass meadows investigation suggests that coral suggests the calcification tends gradient of habitat from reef to where this concept has the po- calcification in the presence of future of ocean to decline with seagrass. tential to offer a novel future tool seagrass could be 18 percent life may not be acidification, For seagrass to offset ocean for marine park management greater than without seagrass. so bleak. "The "we now know

acidification and increase the in a high CO2 world, it is unlikely The study also provides evidence story years ago that there calcification rates of nearby cor- that such a premise is applicable that coral reef managers should was that ocean are variable als, seagrass meadows must be uniformly. The applicability of this consider seagrass conservation as acidification responses in sea in a state of net autotrophy—that will depend upon local physical a means of providing resilience to was going to be corals, in sea is, photosynthetic utilization of conditions, as well as the spatial coral reef biodiversity, productiv- bad, really bad urchins, in all shelled dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) configuration of habitats, and the ity and function. ■ for calcifiers," said organisms that we find in

EXPLORE ASIA TOURS SDN. BHD (Co. No: 372345-X) Lot A -1 -G, Block A, Signature Office, KK Times Square, Off Coastal Highway, 88100 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. exceeds rates, not just factors that influence their pro- Source: Richard K F Unsworth et al 2012 Environ. Res. Iglesias-Rodriguez, whose team the sea". ■ Website : www.sipadanmabulresort.com Website : www.mabulwaterbungalows.com E-mail : [email protected] E-mail : [email protected] Lett. 7 024026 doi:10.1088/1748-9326/7/2/024026 Office Tel : ++6088 486 389 Office Fax : ++6088 486 628 in the seagrass plants, but in their ductivity. discovered that one species of Source: UC Santa Barbara Press release License No : KKKP/PL 2941

5 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Protect mangrove and curb CO2 news Protecting mangroves to lock carbon away may be an economic way to curb climate change.

Dr Juha Siikamaki of the in comparison to other "carbon think tank Resources for the offset" methods. Future and his U.S. colleagues have shown that protecting Added benefits mangroves and thereby "The bonus is that in doing so, reducing the amount of we can preserve important

CO2 released may be an habitats critical to coastal affordable way for countries to fisheries, rich in biodiversity, mitigate their carbon emissions. and home to hundreds of the research, which used species of plants and animals, new high resolution surveys many of them endangered," of global mangrove biomass, co-author Professor James suggests that protecting these Sanchirico from the University habitats could be a viable of California, Davis said in a means for reducing emissions press statement. ■

In stead of reacting directly to "This changes their cam- Ghost crabs change ambient light, the crabs had ouflage so that they are very a natural daily cycle of colour well camouflaged against the change in reaction to the yellow sand during the day, camouflage from colour of the and dark at night—we think to surface blend in with shadows on the they beach," said Dr Martin Stevens, day to night were of the University of Cambridge. on. "Individuals did not change Scientists first suspected colour when put into dark the crabs' unusual conditions, but they did be- come brighter when placed on day to night a white versus a black sub- colour change strate... Our findings show after noticing that ghost crabs have a circadian rhythm of colour differences change mediating cam- in images of ouflage, which is fine-tuned them taken by adaptation to the back- at different ground brightness," stated Stevens. ■ times.

6 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO news

South Africa designates Prince Edward Islands marine protected area

A biodiversity hotspot, sub- At 180,000 squ km, the fishing is limited; and a Antarctic islands are home new Prince Edward Islands controlled zone linking to spectacular marine Marine Protected Area the four restricted wildlife. South Africa has is the first South African areas. This zone is to made marine conservation offshore MPA and one of the be managed as a history by designating the world's largest, significantly low impact zone that Prince Edward Islands a contributing to the protection links the four zones Marine Protected Area. of offshore and deep ocean spatially. (MPA). Consisting of areas. "This is a historic Prince Edward and Marion Given the scarcity of day for marine Islands, the islands are landmasses in the Southern conservation in South situated approximately Ocean, the islands are Africa,” said Dr Morné 2,000 kilometres south of home to vast numbers of du Plessis, WWF-SA's South Africa in the Southern seals and seabirds, which Chief Executive. Ocean and encompass utilize them to breed and “This declaration an area of 180,000 squ km. moult. The islands are critical demonstrates A biodiversity hotspot, the to the conservation of South Africa's new sub-Antarctic islands are such species, as they are commitment to a haven for spectacular forced to aggregate in high protecting the Prince marine wildlife including densities where they remain Edward Islands, an albatrosses, penguins, killer vulnerable to disturbance important national whales and Patagonian toothfish. the late 1990s, Patagonian toothfish, also and introduced predators or pathogens. heritage and a crown Unfortunately, the area’s wildlife has known as Chilean sea bass in northern the protected area will encompass jewel of our oceans. been threatened due to illegal and markets, was subject to rampant a 12 nautical mile sanctuary (no take) We praise the minister for her visionary our marine biodiversity unsustainable fishing practices. During poaching around the islands. zone; four restricted zones, in which leadership and commitment to securing for future generations," he added. ■ Planned Kenyan whale shark 'enclosure' infuriates conservationists Proposed scheme deemed however, group of conser-vationists coastal research organization Cordio enclosure would double as a marine year identified only five of the sharks in a 'flawed and misguided'. and wildlife charities, including Britain’s East Africa. "You cannot tell me that such rescue and rehabilitation centre. "This is month of searching. Born Free Foundation Britain, called a sensitive species, which is known to not some hoodlum misthought project, A portion of the proceeds would pay A plan to capture whale sharks in Bassen's plans "flawed and deeply migrate more than 1,800 miles in a year my opponents are misinformed," stated for local fishermen to process cashew Kenya so tourists can dive with them misguided" and have urged authorities and dive down to 3,200ft, can be happily Bassen. "We have been working on this nut shells into oil to be used to caulk has infuriated conservationists. German in Kenya to stop it. Opponents deny confined to a shallow netted pond in for more than five years; it's a million- their boats. "These beautiful animals are dive instructor Volker Bassen, who runs Bassen's claims that whale sharks were the sea, with no possible escape from dollar investment, and we have the disappearing from our seas because of a whale shark trust, wants to suspend increasingly endangered in East African tourist stress, no ability to feed naturally, support of some of Kenya's leading the demand for their liver oil. We must 2,000ft-long nets off Kenya's Indian waters, where their liver oil is used to seal nor seek out the natural conditions that conservationists." find an alternative," Bassen said. Final Ocean beaches. The enclosure would fishing boats against rot. suit it at different times of the year, nor in 2006, research by Bassen’s East approval for the scheme is pending house two whale sharks, with visitors each "The conservation arguments for this socialize," he added. African Whale Shark Trust discovered 58 from Kenya's National Environmental paying GB£65 each to or dive project do not add up," said David Situated south of Mombassa near the whale sharks off Kenya in a two-week Management Authority. ■ with them. Obura, Kenyan coordinator for regional popular tourist beaches at Diani, the period. However, the same study this

7 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap THIS PAGE: Divers explores the wreck of the Lermon- tov

Text and photos by Kevin Davidson Make way for the shoreline— the ship is taking on water and fast! Perhaps these were not the exact words used to describe the situation, but the sinking of the MS Mikhail Lermontov has now become one of the largest diveable wrecks in New Zealand for both recreational and tech- nical divers.

Lermontov Wreck

The 155-meter-long Mikhail Lermontov Don Jamison. With the captain gone to clearly shown on the charts. was part of a fleet of five luxury liners his cabin and Jamison in charge, the har- the vessel was drawing about 27 feet. named after famous Russian writers and bor master took a course between the Captain Jamison claimed his understand- was a regular cruise ship in New Zealand lighthouse and the end of Cape Jackson ing of the depth in the channel to be 35 waters. On 16 February 1986, she left instead of clearing the rocky reef, which to 40 feet. However, it would have been a Picton accompanied by harbor master extended past Walker Rock and was very foolhardy course to take for anyone

8 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap

Forests of kelp thrive along the hull of the Lermontov wreck (right); Diver (below) explores interior of Lermontov; Divers find abundant coral growth on the wreck (far right)

aware of the presence of the rocks. the surface adding to the deafen- At about 5:37 PM, there was a thud, ing noises the Lermontov made while and the ship started to list, as water sinking. flooded through a 40-foot-long gash in the hull, entering three water-tight Diving the wreck bulkheads. In the meantime, an How can one individual's mistake be announcement was made that din- a diver's delight? The answer: have ner would be delayed, and the wine an unfortunate accident resulting in tasting session that was in progress one of the largest and most easily would be extended. But the wine accessible wrecks at rest in only 36 tasting stopped when the ship tipped meters of water. With diving depths over far enough to send glasses slid- starting in as little as 12 meters, the ing off tables. Lermontov wreck is suitable for both the loud noises that emanated recreational and technical divers. from the Lermontov would haunt our team of GUE divers were able passengers forever, as the vessel to utilize all our skills to safely pen- sank. Items on deck rocketed to the etrate this wreck and photograph surface, into the air and came down, some of the more interesting arti- causing a cacophony of violent facts. The GUE (Global Underwater sounds. Huge bubbles soared from Explorer) diver program teaches a

The MS Mikhail Lermontov

9 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap Lermontov

Beer cans with vis- ible labels rest in a pile on the wreck diver to refine their skills, work where water tempera- as a team and get the most from wreck tures hover around penetration or cave diving. 15°C. After 25 years on As a 24-year veteran of underwater the seabed, a forest of photography, GUE skills have helped me kelp thrives along the get the most from the challenge of photo- hull and provides shel- graphing shipwrecks. I highly recommend ter for smaller fish life. looking into this style of training for a diver A drysuit is the best looking to get better quality out of their way to explore the diving, especially with respect to wreck Lermontov comfort- and cave diving. ably. After ten days of diving, it seemed I had The Lermontov wreck only just scratched The vessel rests on her starboard side the surface in the exploration THIS PAGE: Scenes from diving the Lermontov in the Marlborough Sound near Picton, of the wreck. I found myself A favorite panorama was the pool and skylights overhead. However, picture if you can, this gigantic room with a pool inside, now turned on its edge. The large frames from the skylights with a few glass windows still in place caused ambient light to pierce within. A stool bolted down RAND next to the bar poked out from the side B N E E of the ship due to its 90-degree angle. H W T Nearby, in a store room, beer cans had tumbled out in a pile, their labels still iden- PALAU SIREN tifiable. LIVEABOARD even the best divers will create a cer- T going back to familiar areas in order to tain amount of silt, so I moved my way R Y U R get better images of the more identifiable through the gloaming using my "modified E LUXU areas within the ship. frog kick" (my favorite) hoping that I was piles of foam backing from chairs was the first to arrive, taking pictures carefully visible in the movie theater along with a before my bubbles caused a change in set of stage lights. Visibility ranged from visibility. ten to 30 meters and changed throughout Moving along a companion way, I the day. The bow and stern had different passed too quickly by the remains of levels of visibility, all within the same dive. various books from the library. I deftly Since my passion is photography, I prefer employed a helicopter kick and came to get the best possible quality in my pho- back upon them, photographed them in tos rather than try to see the whole ship. situ and refrained from moving them to

10 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO X-RAY MAG AD.indd 1 12/21/11 12:20 PM Marlbor- ough wreck Sound near Lermontov rap Picton

operates Go Dive Marlborough Lodge and has made hundreds of dives on the Lermotov and the surrounding area. After getting used to my first trip in a drysuit, I found the Lermontov to be an excellent location for photography and enjoyed a new challenge in my diving experi- ences. ■

Kevin Davidson is a widely pub- lished underwater photographer and dive writer based in Guam. For more information, visit: Kevindavidsonphotography.com

the pilot house. It's a tight fit, but the serious diver. divers can pass from top to bot- our stay in tom and see the equipment used Marlborough to steer the massive ship to its allowed us the luxury next location. The viewing win- of dinning on a true dows allowed entrance through marine delicacy. the port side. The shallow beach twenty-five years is still young is home to scallops for a shipwreck, so it was interest- and sea urchins, ing to be able to see the ship's both of which I machinery with such detail. It enjoyed eating raw almost appeared as if you could right from the hell. turn a switch and start an engine A 20-minute dive or generator. fetched us our limit the water column. the engine room became a of scallops and the cooler waters were home favorite place for the team to sea urchins, and to various forms of algae and cup visit, and I patiently waited for my we found ourselves corals that mix in with the kelp chance to have a look. As one in heaven, as we beds along the ship's exterior. I might imagine, the engine room indulged in them. did, however, love finding great in a vessel this size is a large and our guide for the images on the deck areas where spacious place. But in near black week operated a create better images. All the fab- structure. A companion way divers could get close. The prop out conditions, it's hard to take it live-on-shore dive ric and wood of the interior had ran along part of the ship, and I was also easy to view. Divers can all in. I was able to get an image lodge only a five- caused decay, and the gentlest enjoyed the natural light images I get the feeling of just how big a of part of the engines. Knobs minute boat ride touch caused a good image to saw. cruise ship really is. Occasionally, switches and levers adorned the from the wreck. It's go bad, so I moved on in search towards the bow, I looked up when navigating around a ship walls causing one to want to go a fabulous way to of fertile grounds. as my partner looked down upon during a dive, it's easy to loose try them all to see if they work. get quick access to During a dive, I turned my focus the circular radar antennas, giv- track of the immensity of these the Lermontov, and to the exterior of the Lermontov ing me a beautiful silhouette great hulks of metal until you Afterthoughts there are other fun and found the lines across the image. Poking its way out into the try to swim from one end to the Overall the Mikhail Lermontov is dives along the reef deck looked nice and allowed blue, the visibility also allowed a other. an exciting wreck, and I highly within the sound. easy access around the super- clear view of a mast suspended in Another dive was reserved for recommend it as a must-see for Brent Mcfadden Auckland at night (above); Really fresh shellfish (center); Diver on wreck of the Lermontov (far left)

11 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck Two epic destinations, one rap Mystery wreck surfaces inside Stockholm great reputation—Buddy Dive. Two wrecks dating from the 17th century have been located just off Kastellholmen, a small island in the centre of Stockholm. AS LOW AS $ One of the wrecks had been sighted they literally just showed up recently pp/qd before, but the other one came as due to an unusually low waterlevel in 680 7 NIGHTS / 5 DIVE DAYS a complete surprise. "We believe it Saltsjön; it is currently at its lowest level is a Danish warship," said Andreas since the 1940s, when the first vessel Olsson, head of the Maritime was last observed. Museum's archaeological unit. The in the coming days, the Maritime bottom around Skeppsholmen and Museum's experts will take samples Kastellholmen in Stockholm seems lit- and perform dendrochronology to tered with a large number of wrecks establish when and where the wood dating from the era when Sweden in the wrecks originated. was a major military power. And it is olsson, who has already been also where the two wrecks of warships in contact with Danish colleagues, were found. believes the wrecks are the remains According to Olsson, the wrecks of the Grå Ulven (Gray Wolf) and are probably those of warships from Den Store Drage (The Great Dragon), the 1600s, which were taken by the which were known to be in the area. Swedish navy as prizes following a "We do not known for certain that BONAIRE battle at sea. these are indeed the vessels in ques- mus eet (M ar iti m e M us e um , k hol m , Stoc Swe d e n ) "They brought them home, used tion, but we do know that these GALAPAGOS them for a while and then scuttled wrecks should be located in this area," them on this location. We believe one said Olsson. "If you go to the Armory, of the wrecks to be that of a Danish you can see the old banners and ship. The other one we already knew other artefacts captured from foreign of so this new wreck only adds to the armed , but so much more was fun," said Olsson. sacked, and some of it lies here." ■ Ji m anss o n , h S j öhi s to r i ska

Another German WWII found off Norway

The U-486 was torpedoed and broken in two by a British AS LOW AS submarine in April 1945 shortly after leaving the western $ Norwegian town of Bergen. There were no survivors. 4275pp/db The oil company Statoil was working had been designed to counter the 7 NIGHTS / 6 DIVE DAYS on a pipeline off the coast of Norway Allies' asdic/ devices. Burnett Tanya when they came across the remains of the sunken submarine. Arild Maroey Hansen of the Bergen Maritime Museum told Norwegian CARADONNA The boat began training on March 22 radio station NRK, that the potential WORLDWIDE DIVE ADVENTURES

with the 5th U-boat Flotilla but moved presence of fuel oil and unexploded C o mm ns on to the 11th flotilla for operations. torpedoes on the recently found sub- www.caradonna.com She was one of nine Type VIIs that marine could pose a similar problem, W i k m e d a the Kriegsmarine fitted with an experi- while also raising the possibility of [email protected] mental synthetic rubber skin of ane- other sunken vessels that have yet to 800-330-6611 choic tiles known as Alberich, which be found in nearby waters. ■ Generic drawing of a the German Type VIIC uboat

12 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Pioneers headline TEKCamp 2013 rap It is hard to imagine but this year will be the third TEKCamp. This inspiring event is organised by and held at Vobster Quay in Somerset, England. (Monday 8 – Friday 12 July).

Winner of the prestig- Netherlands and Germany to take ious Innovation Award at part in this incredible event. Wreck Trek. EUROTEK.2012, TEKCamp gives Many divers attend because The final frontier. divers of all levels the opportu- they are thinking of beginning Plymouth Solstice nity to take their div- their transition into ing further via an more technical Got plans to celebrate this intense week of diving. However, year’s midsummer eve yet? Why workshops and this is also the not head for historic Plymouth lectures under perfect event for and join in the fun at the Scuba the direct divers to get a Solstice. It is being held from guidance of reality check Friday 21st – Sunday 23rd June some of the on their cur- 2013 at the Mount Batten tech diving rent skills set Watersports Centre, Plymstock. industry’s and step leading up their It is no surprise Plymouth has instructors game. During the traditionally been a haven for and pio- week there are the sports diver—the city boasts neers. In plenty of opportu- a number of dive centres. The the last two nities to attending area has some of the best div- years it has helped workshops in sidemount ing in the United Kingdom, with many divers—including diving, line laying, failure sites ranging from shallow scenic dive professionals—achieve drills, ascents, , DPVs reefs to the deeper technical their diving ambitions. and much more besides—if it's in wrecks. The James Egan Layne whether you're a recreational the technical diving arena, it's at (a large liberty ship sunk in WWII diver looking to 'go tech', or a TEKCamp! by a torpedo) and HMS Scylla technical diver who wants to (Europe’s first purpose sunk broaden your diving horizons, Equipment prizes wreck) have been many a div- TEKCamp is for you. TEKCamp pro- In addition, the ever popular raf- er's first sea dive, and they are vides a unique mentoring program fle prize draw returns with some popular with seasoned veterans, that allows you to develop at your fabulous high-value equipment too. own pace. You don't need to up for grabs, courtesy of , be an "ardent, dyed-in-the-wool Hollis, BTS and Light For Me. The Scuba Solstice tickets will be hardcore techie" to join in—just a final night of TEKCamp will wrap going on sale shortly and will temperate water diver who wants up with a full-on Grand Cayman include all facilities at the Mount to get more out of your diving. themed party—you'll get to kick Batten Centre (car parking, show- back and share some diving sto- ers, changing rooms, toilets, bar), Big name guests ries over a glass of rum as you rub live music, disco, a Plymouth Some of the biggest names in shoulders with diving gods! Scuba Solstice t-shirt and food technical diving will be attend- if you have not booked your over the three-day event. ing the event including Lamar TEKCamp tickets yet then don't The Florida Keys Wreck Trek is a series of challenging dives on some of the most O Hires, Mark Powell, Martin Robson, fret—there's still time! Two packag- G R amazing shipwrecks in the universe. From the 510’ Spiegel Grove off Key Largo A L Y E During the festival, charter boats Phil Short, MBE, Paul es are available: a standard ticket K to the recently scuttled 524’ missile-tracking USS Vandenberg in Key West,

will run from the Mount Batten Toomer and Rick Walker, giving and a 'deluxe' ticket for those of it’s a must for any diver’s (or captain’s) log.

A pontoon. To secure your space, divers unrivalled access to top you who are particularly keen. AD fla-keys.com/diving/wrecktrek OR M LA IS simply prebook your dive(s) via drawer training with most of the For further information log onto

ON K ATH the website when you book your major tech diving agencies. It is www.tekcamp.co.uk today—but EY W MAR EST S Scuba Solstice ticket. ■ little wonder that TEKCampees don’t hang about because tickets BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEY ► www.scubasolstice.com have travelled from Ireland, the are going fast. ■

13 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO training bulletin

ScubaSo you want to be a Instructor … just as soon as you get OW certified

Text by Steve Lewis the wording of their memos varies a out with—is clouded by the much less little but the core message goes some- attractive hard-edged primary colors of Do you remember your first thing like: “I have just got my XYZ open- the real world. reaction to being able to water , and I have those of you who do actually teach decided to become a scuba instruc- scuba professionally—regardless of breathe underwater? What was tor! Can you give me some advice?” which level and to whom and where— the first thing you wanted to Occasionally, time is mentioned, too, will probably agree that the romance is do when you caught sight of a as in, “I already have six dives under a little white lie from a V-P of marketing coral head liberally seasoned my belt and have enrolled in the XYZ someplace, and the glamor of climbing professional scuba school so that I into slightly damp, slightly stinky drysuit with tiny, multi-colored bait can become a scuba instructor next underwear on day four of a six-day fish? When your instructor hand- week…” CCR Cave Program is severely limited. ed you your very first c-card, Ah, who can blame them? I am not However, teaching people to dive has did you get a strong urge to sure if diving is truly unique among “life- its moments. style” sports in this regard, but it really okay, so let’s put all that aside and swap places with them? is quite amazing that scads of recent instead, let’s concentrate on what inductees to our little community (some advice we should give the neophyte Judging by regular postings on any one still waiting for the mail to bring them who is hell-bent on becoming a of the various scuba forums and diving piece of plastic that tells the world they diving professional, because “Forget message boards in Cyberland, a fair are a paid-up and checked-out mem- about it!” or “You must be kidding” are percentage of newly-minted divers suf- ber) want to teach others how to do it. simply unfriendly and unhelpful. fer through an overwhelmingly strong You simply have to love that level of Your mileage may vary, but here are urge to replace their current situation enthusiasm, and when any of us get a my suggestions for the enthusiastic new- with the “romance and glamor” of life chance to reply, we should take these comer who thinks being a diving instruc- as a scuba instructor on a warm beach requests seriously and actually try to tor is something they simply have to someplace exotic and far away from help. However, I admit that my reaction do. These are things that a perspective the nine-to-five rat-race, the daily com- can be hash sometimes. I have a slightly employer (shop owner, resort opera- mute along clogged highways, and the jaded perspective, and my view of tor or punter looking for an instructor) vagaries of a climate that features sea- the scuba industry—through what’s left will probably find appealing. Oh, and a sons… especially cold ones. of the rose-tinted spectacles I started quick qualifier: these suggestions assume

peter symes

14 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO tification from one of the world's of the world's leading experts to New courses leading diving agencies. deliver non-diving speciality cours- Divers taking the DDRC Diving es. Who better to train divers on Diving Diseases Accident Responder Course what to do in a diving accident Research (DARC) will be able to benefit than DDRC? We are very proud from receiving training from world- to have DDRC as an SDI training Centre (DDRC) class diving doctors and trainers. facility.” and SDI are They will then be able to receive Jon Parlour, Training Manager at proud to certifications from SDI and gain DDRC said, “We are very happy to announce that DDRC will recognition for their training. This be working with SDI on our DARC certification can be recognised course. We were impressed with now be able to offer SDI as part of their ongoing train- the structure of the SDI course and certification for CPR, First ing towards Advanced Diver, material as well as their training Aid, Admin and or even Open Water philosophy and are hoping to be AED training courses. Instructor. running additional SDI/TDI courses DDRC trainer recently com- in the future.” pleted a cross-over course to SDI The combination of these two non-diving speciality instructors For details on other TDI/SDI courses organsations means that divers with SDI/TDI Instructor Trainer Mark contact: will be able to receive training Powell. “DDRC are the perfect Mark Powell from the United Kingdom's leading candidates for the SDI non-diving TDI Instructor Trainer #8532 hyperbaric research and treat- speciality instructor. This unique Tel: +44 (0) 7770 864327 ment charity while receiving cer- scheme allows SDI to make use Email: [email protected] peter symes that the perspective instructor consid- to the average student regardless of how the evening kicks off at 18:15 with a that can bring better understanding to ers teaching others to dive is a business strong their internal motivations might be. DAN Lectures pre-lecture social with light refreshments both sides. rather than a charitable service. education is about changing behav- sponsored by 'Down Under', a local "The social preceding each talk pro- ior, and as long as the person delivering (DAN) America . This is followed by a 45–55 vides the casual icebreaker to set the Curiosty and empathy the education understands that different delivers a new talk on diving physiology, minute talk and an additional 30 min- tone. The post-talk Q&A sessions fre- The first and most important requirements people respond differently to the same medicine and safety research on the utes for questions and discussion. quently run over to meet the (because we are taking enthusiasm as a stimuli—and is enthusiastically curious first Wednesday of every other month. Dr Neal W Pollock, a Research thirst for knowledge. I think given) are curiosity and empathy. I put as to why—most other things fall into This is the third year of the bi-monthly Director at DAN instigated the series that it is safe to say that curiosity first on the list because teach- place… sometimes. public lecture series, where divers from in 2011, said, “I felt it was important to anyone attending will ing—whether the topic is empathy is just as important, if for noth- the region have the perfect opportunity reach the divers in our own backyard learn something of value. or applied mathematics or car repair— ing else, for the times when things do not to hear from a variety of local experts. and this is a wonderful way to inter- "There is no charge to requires both the student and instructor fall into place. DAN’s Senior Research Director, Dr act with the local community, letting attend and no need to to have a real desire to learn. And cer- the most common trait shared by suc- Petar Denoble, will present, 'The Heart them share in the evolution of new register for talks. More infor- tainly a new instructor has a lot to learn. cessful instructors is empathy with the in Diving', on Wednesday June 5, at talks. Testing new material on a mation is available on Perhaps the most engaging thing about people they are charged with looking 6 West Colony Place, Durham, North live audience is both fun and the DAN website: diving and certainly about teaching after—and make no mistake, a class Carolina. productive, frequently guid- www.dan.org/ it is just how much there is to discover. filled with open-water scuba students “Diving affects cardiovascular func- ing revision or even new events. Looking Most of what presents itself for discovery take some looking after. tions through the effects of hydrostatic topics. Many people ahead, August is about people and how they react to the most common failing of instruc- , thermal status, write to us 7 will show- being underwater… little of which is cov- tors who do not enjoy success is lack of efforts, increased oxygen partial pres- case Dr Matias ered in your average diving textbook. empathy. Just my opinion, but even at sure and various other stressors. Healthy Nochetto,

it is curiosity and what’s uncovered the most complex, risky, elevated level hearts adjust well to these challenges present- C reative by the curious instructor that adds value of technical instruction, there’s room but hearts affected by symptomatic or with ing, Critical to a bare-bones scuba class taught by for understanding and empathy. The asymptomatic disease may be less able ques- Thinking of the incurious and complacent or—worse instructor’s job is to identify what part to cope. We will consider how common tions, but Post-Dive B ardo yet—fed-up instructor. The ins and outs of breathe in, breathe out, repeat and cardiovascular conditions may affect div- the relaxed Symptoms. of diving at a basic level really are not surface slowly is challenging his or her ers and their ability to enjoy diving and open venue "We hope to see that complex: breathe in, breathe out, student. Indifference to their plight is not to stay safe. We will also discuss steps to prompts you there.” ■ B rown - repeat, surface slowly. However, these going to help the process along. maintain health and mitigate risks.” discussion Dr Neal Pollock

skills are surprisingly difficult to get across Jason

15 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Scuba Instructor

before the emergence of technical world is useful for a dive instructor, dive programs aimed at recreational too. If nothing else, it helps them to divers like us, there wasn’t much relate to their students and gives readily available for the develop- them something to talk about other ment for superior diving skills outside than Boyles Law! of the standard pathway there’s really nothing to chuckle at from , dive master to when someone who has yet to fin- instructor. And one could argue that ish their open-water checkout dives the curriculum for those certifications tells the world they want to become lacked emphasis on the key areas a scuba instructor. Our community that technical divers pay attention needs those folks… desperately; to. however, there’s slightly more to Not to say that all sport diving doing the job right than knowing instructors should be certified as how to work a projector and how to cave divers or CCR pilots or connect a regulator to a scuba cyl- whatever, but all sport diving instruc- inder. It just looks that easy. tors should be logging a few dozen Dive Safe. ■ personal dives each year, and in a semi-perfect world, will gain a lot Steve Lewis is a Technical Diving Inter- from earning advanced certs for national (TDI) instructor-trainer based themselves. if nothing else, being on in Ontario, Canada, who has au- the receiving end of a scuba course thored and co-authored several div- helps to build their instructor-student ing textbooks. In addition to serving empathy. as editor and contributor for several international dive publications, he Life beyond diving has also served on the Training Advi- In addition and finally, general life sory Panel for TDI, SDI and ERDI. Visit: experience outside the underwater www.techdivertraining.org

peter symes

Business sense French, Russian, Portuguese. I’d vote for Experience Another more tangible skill that will help any of these, but with a real bias towards Lastly, experience as a diver is kind of nice any new instructor is a background in some Mandarin. The world has changed, and for an instructor. type of business. An MBA in marketing, English may be the lingua franca, but some- i think most of the sport agencies require accounting, project management, human thing besides it can help… a lot… especially inductees for instructor development pro- resource management and the like will be since the growing world economies are no grams to have a minimum of 100 dives a bonus, but anything related will be a real longer part of mainland Europe or North logged. A hundred dives is not that many asset. Even knowing how to use the latest America. really but it hopefully allows time enough version of the most popular bookkeeping however, even in cases where poten- for the perspective instructor to have had a software would be a start. So too would be tial candidates are uni-lingual, a thorough few things go pear-shaped while underwa- some understanding of how retail works and knowledge of that one language is really ter. Since one “bad” dive has the potential knowing how to solve the basic equation: key to being able to get a point across, and to be a better learning experience than 15 cost + value = price. more importantly, listen and understand or 20 perfect dives, perhaps we should be what’s being said to them. asking how many times they’ve been faced Language and communication being fluent and confident are required with the shock and awe of a dive that’s The next skill on this list involves language skills when standing in front of a group gone so far from perfect that it’s barely and communications. A second language is of people whose behavior you wish to recognizable—and of course, what they probably the best start—Mandarin, Spanish, change. learned from it.

peter symes

16 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Apps for dive travellers travel news Social media booking iTunes and Andriod icons link to download Pages Want to be seated beside a After completing check-in, the FlightStats Airport Zoom Facebook friend? Finnair has customer can tell his friends in Airport Zoom provides arrival and introduced a new social check- his or her social networks where departure flight statistics for over in service, which allows the pas- they are heading and their esti- 120 major airports worldwide. sengers to link their Facebook mated time of arrival. With KLMs Information includes maps with profile with the seat map. When Meet & Seat you can view other gate location, airport navigation, doing so, other passengers passengers’ Facebook plus details on restaurants, bars, can see the passenger’s or LinkedIn profile services and amenities near your gate. Airport Facebook profile, and details and see where delays, weather issues, security alerts and more the passenger can they’ll be sitting—long are communicated as well. see who else has before your flight leaves Climate change could make for a bumpy flight checked in on the the ground. “Simply share All My Baggage same flight and your Facebook or LinkedIn All My Baggage keeps track of Fasten your seat belts! White-knuckle flyers the study addresses clear air turbulence, where they profile details to check your belongings while traveling so may face an increasingly bumpier ride a sharp upward or downward movement of are seat- other participating pas- nothing is left behind. The applica- courtesy of climate change. According air occurring in the vicinity of the jet stream, ed. sengers’ details and where tion records the number of pieces to a paper published in the journal Nature a powerful river of winds at speeds often they’ll be sitting,” it says of checked luggage and also Climate Change, projected changes in exceeding 150mph in the upper levels of on KLM’s website. Of itemizes carry on bags into back- the jet stream may intensify one form of air the atmosphere. Appearing virtually out of course you can also packs, briefcases, purses, etc, while further cata- turbulence between 10 and 40 percent in nowhere with no storms or clouds in view, choose your seat. ■ loguing accessories such as laptops, phones, the North Atlantic by 2050, increasing airline clear-air turbulence doesn’t appear on boarding passes, water bottles, passports, drivers costs, plane damage and injuries to both radar, making it difficult to avoid. license and parking receipts. Refer to the app passengers and crew members. “It’s not just about knocking your drink when going through security, boarding your flight over,” said lead author Paul LAX uses dogs to help passengers de-stress or before leaving the terminal to be sure you Williams, an atmospheric scientist have all of your belongings. at the University of Reading in the Next time a delayed flight causes passengers comfort and assis- United Kingdom. “Our results sug- skyrocketing blood pressure, tance. U.S. DepT of State – Smart Traveler Siren Fleet gest that climate change will lead man’s best friend may supply “We are pleased to launch the The official U.S. State Department to bumpier transatlantic flights some much-needed relief. A PUP program in honor of National application for U.S. travelers pro- by the middle of this century,” he program initiated at Los Angeles Volunteer Week,” said Los vides information on foreign coun- said. Williams, along with co-author International Airport called Pets Angeles World Airports Executive tries, travel alerts and warnings, Manoj Joshi of the University of East Unstressing Passengers (PUP) aims Director Gina Marie Lindsey. “It’s maps, U.S. Embassy locations and Anglia, set out to explore how a to calm stressed passengers wait- a great opportunity to spread more. It also offers access to the warming planet could affect clear- ing for flights. Trained dogs outfit- happiness to millions of travelers State Departments’ free Smart Traveler Enrollment air turbulence. “It’s kind of surpris- ted with bright red vests reading from all over the world. Expect to Program (STEP), which provides assistance during ing that no one has looked at this “Pet me!” will roam departure see the PUP’s on a regular basis in times of unrest, lost or stolen passports and allows before,” he added. gate areas with their handlers terminals at LAX.” family members to reach you while traveling in Focusing on the air over the in each terminal of LAX offering Research has shown that pet case of emergencies. North Atlantic, Williams and therapy helps promotes relax- Liveaboard Safaris in Fiji, Indonesia, Joshi examined projections from ation by decreasing blood pres- Tip Check Calculator FREE Palau, the Philippines & the Maldives a climate model developed sure and heart rate. All dogs are The Tip Check Calculator Free registered with Therapy Dogs Inc. 6-13 night trips offer:- by NOAA’s Geophysical Fluid edition offers a detailed tip guide Dynamics Laboratory (GFDL). “It’s of Cheyenne, Wyoming, a non- and tip calculator for the United Up to 4 Dives per Day profit organization providing com- Free Aqua Lung Equipment Rental one of the busiest air traffic routes States. Recommendations are Free Nitrox in the world,” said Williams, “with fort and stress relief at hospitals, broken down into categories such MKVI Courses & Rental schools, senior homes and other Specialist Photography Workshops about 600 crossings every day.” as dining, hotels, travel, holiday According to the National institutions. Officials hope the tipping, etc, and the tip calculator can provide Affordable Luxury in Asia & the Pacific Center for Atmospheric dogs will help improve the atmo- the tip amount before or after taxes. It can also Make Siren Your #1 Choice Research (NCAR), turbulence is the sphere inside the airport, which calculate split tips when sharing the bill. The $1.99 leading cause of weather-related Robert Kaufmann/FEMA/ Wikimedia Commons was listed by Travel Magazine as Pro edition includes a guide to 69 countries seg- www.sirefleet.com injuries on aircraft, costing airlines “Custer”, one of Hope Crisis Response’s second-worst airport for passen- mented into restaurants, bars, porters and taxis. [email protected] tens of millions of dollars annually. ■ therapy dogs offering comfort to ger satisfaction in 2012. ■ displaced victims and relief workers

17 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO MaldivesOctober 2013 Expedition Join an exclusive X-Ray Mag / Ocean Geographic expedition to the Maldives. Photographer and publisher, Michael Aw, author of two books and two broadcast documentaries about the Maldives, will lead this expedition to show you the mantas of Baa Atoll.

The expedition’s liveaboard is the MV Maldivian Princess

Paradise in the Maldives: Diver encounters a large manta ray

Text and photos courtesy of East Africa and Western Australia, hammerheads, whalesharks, the nature’s underwater won- Michael Aw the midpoint of the Indian Ocean tunas and orcas are frequent visi- ders where reef fishes to thrive in is the atolls of the Maldives. tors. Tidal currents flushing through astonishing abundance, in density Beneath the Indian Ocean is a lying at the tips of a great- the channels bring a constant unrivalled anywhere in the world. long, huge ridge inundated by submerged mountain range that food source into the atolls, sus- Without the threat of spear guns, numerous far-reaching fractures. stretches from the Lakshadweeps taining spectacular coral growth, dynamite, cyanide, reef fishes The ridge divides into two long Island to the Chagos islands, great which in turn supports a realm of swim blithesomely among divers arms east of Madagascar. One migratory currents swish through reef fishes in extraordinary abun- and snorkellers. arm snakes around Africa and links the atolls, leaving behind rich dance. The fish diversity of the our beyond the ordinary expe- up with the Atlantic Ridge while plankton. Like an oases in the Maldives is documented to be dition to the Maldives in 2013 will the other arm extends to south of Sahara, pelagics congregate at over a thousand species in 100 focus on interacting with the man- Australia and eventually links up the atolls to feed and to procre- families. tas of Baa Atoll. Documented by with the East Pacific rise. Between ate. the reefs of Maldives are among science and through photograph- Luxury accommodation on the MV Maldivian Princess

18 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Making pictures underwater in the Maldives is akin to shoot- ing in the world’s largest aquarium teeming with fish life; many species are predictably found in enormous numbers. Not only is the profusion of fish life amazing, but also the predict- ability of seeing the same fishes at the same site within soft corals in colours of rainbow is the trademark of underwater Maldives. The Maldives is the fishpond of the Indian Ocean.

Lush coral reefs of the Maldives (left); Interior of MV Maldivian Princess (above) ic evidence, the feeding phenome- cious lounge is set up with wi-fi non at Baa Atoll is unique and occurs internet, generous space for cam- NB. nowhere else in the world. When era work, presentations and fine Bookings are handled the , moon, sun and wind are dining experience. Diving is sup- entirely and solely by Ocean aligned, a vortex of over 100 man- ported on a spacious dive dedi- Geographic. Booking is not tas can be observed feeding on the cated dhohi, three to four dives confirmed until deposit is paid. broth of living, wriggling plankton. per day and nitrox is free. ■ Payment details for payment of The expedition shall also visit signa- deposit will be provided once ture sites of North Ari Atoll as well as Cost: US$3,980 (plus 6% maldiv- booking is completed. Booking offer the opportunity to dive a cou- ian GST) (11 days / 10 nights / username and password is not ple of the Northern Atolls that have full board – twin sharing) Deposit the same as your OG username just opened up for marine tourism. US$1,200. OG Members discount and password. If you are new the Expedition platform is the applies. Note: Maldivian GST is not trip client you can leave the Maldives latest state of the art live- shown on the online booking from existing client login blank and aboard, the MV Maldivian Princess. and will be invoiced separately. complete the booking. Exquisitely designed and furnished, To express interest or if you need please read terms and condi- the Maldivian Princess offers a bou- further information email alison@ tions and cancellation policy tique style liveaboard diving experi- oneocean.com. If you are a new during booking. If you are an ence. Palatial cabins are equipped client and ready to book please existing trip client please click with LCD TV, en-suite and the spa- go to booking link. below and we will book you in.

19 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO