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Siem Reap travel guide

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September 2006

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Angkor Hospital for Children T: (063) 380 191 F: (063) 380 191 Achamean St, Siem Reap http://www.bangkokair.com Siem Reap T: (063) 96 3409 F: (063) 76 0452 [email protected] JetstarAsia (for Singapore) Set in the northwest of , Siem Reap is best http://angkorhospital.org/ http://www.jetstarasia.com known for being home to the incredible , a sprawling World Heritage-listed complex of ancient Police Lao Airlines (for , Vientiane) temple ruins. While Angkor is surely one of the globe's The Tourist Police have an office by the admission 114 Airport Rd, Siem Reap most amazing historical sites, is gate into the Angkor Historical Park. T: (063) 963 283 F: (063) 963 283 also home to an array of other ruins, such as Beng http://www.laoairlines.com/ Mealea and Bantaey Srei, so if Khmer ruins are your Common needs thing, this province must be explored. Ruins aside, Malaysia Airlines (for Kuala Lumpur) Banks the province is expansive, running along the north B5,6 Airlines Office, Siem Reap Int. Airport ANZ Royal has installed international access ATMs -- coast of the and north to Oddar Meanchey T: (063) 964 780 F: (063) 964 760 both in Siem Reap and at the airport. province. Few visitors get around here. http://www.malaysia-airlines.com/ Acleda Bank 6 Route 6. T: (063) 963 660 The provincial capital of Siem Reap is also a transpor- PMT Air (for Utapao, Hanoi) ANZ Royal tation hub, with many people coming through here en 148 Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap 566-570, Rd route to , (then ) or by T: (063) 760 942 F: (063) 760 943 Cambodia Asia Bank boat to . http://www.pmtair.com Cnr Sivatha & Airport Rds T: (063) 964 741 Canadia Bank Siem Reap's international airport now takes in more Siem Reap Airways (for Phnom Penh) Old market T: (063) 964 808 tourists daily than the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh. 571 Airport Rd, Siem Reap SBC Mass tourism has well and truly arrived to this part of T: (063) 380 191-2 F: (063) 380 191 18A Sivatha Rd. T: (063) 963 838 Cambodia. http://www.bangkokair.com Union Commercial Bank Old market. T: (063) 963 703-4 Silk Air (for Phnom Penh, Singapore) Siem Reap International Airport, Siem Reap Siem Reap town Post office T: (063) 380 389 F: (063) 380 390 The main post office is on the river road, near the FCC Booming Siem Reap is the leaping off point for the http://www.silkair.com/ Angkor. magnificent temples of Angkor. In the space of a decade the town has exploded from a relatively small Thai Airways (for ) Internet backwater to the fastest growing settlement in Cam- Suite A15-A16, Regency Square, 294, Mao Tse Toung Internet cafes are scattered all over Siem Reap, par- bodia. Set astride the , the town is Blvd, Phnom Penh ticularly in the old market area. Rates are extremely home to a couple of minor sites of interest, some T: (023) 214 359 F: (023) 214 369 low -- as little as 2,000 Riel per hour. Wireless access reasonable shopping and hundreds of guesthouses http://www.thaiair.com/ points are slowly becoming more common at cafes and restaurants. and some restaurants and bars. Airlines (for HCM City, Hanoi) If you're planning on seeing Angkor from anything 342 Airport Rd, Siem Reap other than your aircraft seat, you'll be staying here. Getting around T: (063) 964 488 F: (063) 964 489 http://www.vietnamairlines.com/ Take your pick from a full range of accommodation Siem Reap is small enough to be able to walk to most options, from $3 flophouses to $300-plus luxury ho- spots, but there's no shortage of transportation to Boat tels. choose from. If you're arriving by boat from either Phnom Penh or Battambang, you'll arrive at Chong Khmeas ferry dock, Most tourists tend to visit the ruins in the morning and Remorque motos some 12km to the south of Siem Reap. Expect a moto late afternoon, taking a break in the middle of the day Best described as a motorcycle towing a chariot, to charge around US$2 to get into town while a car when the heat and poor light detracts from the tem- remorque-motos can be found on just about every should cost about US$6. The trip takes about 30 ples. The easiest way to visit is to hire a moto by the street corner. Short hops around town shouldn't cost minutes. The boat to Phnom Penh takes around five day, although you can also go by bicycle, bus, car, more than a dollar, but if you're planning on using to six hours, the boat to Battambang four to eight helicopter and even hot-air balloon. these frequently, hire one for the day. They can com- hours (or more). fortably seat two people and three or four at a squeeze. Aside from exploring the complex, most Bus people spend their time laying around their guest- Moto The main bus station is situated outside of Siem Reap house, sitting in one of the town's many bars and Short hops around town shouldn't cost more than a at the taxi-park though many bus companies will offer restaurants, seeing the other minor sites and shop- couple of thousand riel, with daily hiring starting at to pick you up and ferry you out to the bus station. ping. There's enough to keep even those with a mini- about US$6 depending on where you want to go. Bear The best company doing the Siem Reap to Phnom mal interest in ruins occupied for a couple of days, in mind the driver will not have a helmet, for himself or Penh run is Mekong Express, which costs US$8 and while if piles of rocks are your thing, you could end up you. You can pick motos up anywhere -- just look for takes around four hours. All buses break the journey spending a month here. a Khmer guy wearing a baseball cap. Currently foreign for a snack at Kompong Thom. The Mekong Express tourists cannot hire motorcycles in Siem Reap. buses have a toilet on board -- other (cheaper) serv- Orientation ices often do not. Taxis More expensive but more comfortable than other op- Resources Share taxi tions, figure on US$25-30 per day for a Toyota Camry, Online resources The easiest and fastest way to get to the Thai border more for a minibus. If you're planning on visiting out- Aside from Travelfish, the following websites are handy at Poipet is to take a share taxi from Siem Reap. You lying ruins and have a few people to split the fare with, resources: can either hire the entire car (US$30-35) or buy one this can be a smart way to get there. Most guest- http://www.talesofasia.com (or two) seats in a car. Do not, under any circum- houses and travel agents will be able to sort out a car http://www.cambodiapocketguide.com/ stances, take an organised minibus to Bangkok. See for you, or ask a moto driver and he'll find you one. http://www.canbypublications.com/ Tales of Asia for coverage of this route. http:// www.talesofasia.com Tourist office Arriving / departing There is a small tourist office opposite the Grand Air Hotel d'Angkor, but we've never managed to get any- Siem Reap International Airport is seven kilometres thing useful out of them. outside town. There is a US$25 departure tax (ouch!) for international flights and a US$6 departure tax for Free guidebooks domestic flights. A bevvy of leaflets and mini-guides have flooded the Siem Reap International Airport: http://www.cambodia- market, including the Cambodia Pocket Guide and airports.com/siemreap/en/ Canby's Siem Reap Visitor's Guide though bear in mind the listings in the latter are all paid for. To get from Siem Reap International Airport to Siem Reap both taxis (US$5) and motos (US$1-1.50) are Emergency available. In both cases, the driver will hope to garner your custom for the duration of your stay. Medical care In the unlikely situation that you need to be hospital- Airlines serving Siem Reap include: ised, head to Bangkok. Otherwise a well regarded AirAsia (for Kuala Lumpur) clinic and children's hospital may be helpful. http://www.airasia.com Naga International Clinic #593 Rd 6, Airport Rd, Siem Reap (for Bangkok) T: (063) 964 500 F: (063) 963 274. 571 Airport Rd, Siem Reap

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Where to stay in Siem Reap If you’re baffled by the choice of areas to stay in Siem Reap, don’t fret -- it’s a pretty easy call. Siem Reap is bisected by the Siem Reap River. East of the river is referred to as Wat Bo and is home to many of the town’s budget guesthouses along with a smattering of mid-range resorts -- if you’re after a cheap bed or a mid-priced pool, check out Wat Bo. West of the river consists of four parts -- the Old Market to the south, the French Quarter in the middle, the Airport Road to the west and towards Angkor to the north. The Old Market is the heart of Siem Reap -- a thriving area packed with restaurants, bars and shops. While most of the options here are backpacker orientated, there’s also a smattering of more mid-range options available. The French Quarter has Siem Reap’s mid- to upper range hotels and resorts -- from classic colonial throwbacks to chic boutique affairs. While there is a smattering of budget options, the French Quarter is mostly given over to mid-range and above. The Airport Road which unsurprisingly runs out to the airport, is lined with cookie cutter hotels and there’s little to recommend this area, though if you’ve been booked in by a travel agent or tour group you may well find yourself out here -- if nothing else you’re close to the airport. Heading out towards Angkor is the final choice, and while there’s but a handful of options, what you gain in proximity to Angkor you lose in being a fair hike from Siem Reap proper.

Journeys Within but with their astronomical prices, anything less would Accommodation have you begging for a refund. Rooms have choice of Very friendly 6/10 river view or pool view -- we think river has the edge. Airport Rd, Siem Reap The Airport road Be sure to check online for rates. Convenient to your hotel and the airport -- that’s about T: (063) 964 748 [email protected] it. Lined with dozens of mostly characterless faux- Borann http://www.journeys-within.com four star hotels, the Airport Road has slim pickings Pool is a big plus 8/10 $50-90 when it comes to fine lodgings. Most everything will be Behind La Noria, just off Wat Bo Rd, Siem Reap Well out of town on the airport road, Journeys Within a motorbike or tuk tuk ride away, so if you're planning T: (063) 964 740 run a successful regional tour company and this guest- on staying out here to save money, you're better off [email protected] house serves as their Siem Reap hub. With very staying closer to town. http://www.borann.com friendly and chatty management, you'll certainly feel $33-44 like you're staying in a family home rather than a The 20-room Borann is a lushly quiet world away from Secrets of Elephants guesthouse or hotel. The rooms are very clean and the hustle of downtown Siem Reap, which is just a 15- Best on the airport road - funky 8/10 reasonably-sized, though when compared to some of minute walk away. Set in five, two-storey bungalows, Airport Rd, Siem Reap the offerings in town they are somewhat overpriced. the spacious shuttered rooms are tastefully deco- T: (063) 964 328;(016) 901 901 They also have an attached crocodile farm -- shame rated and have huge verandas with comfortable chairs [email protected] it's not a pool! http://www.angkor-travel.com for enjoying a sunset G&T with a view over the lovely $40 gardens. All rooms have hot water but no TV or phone. This funky French-run place feels like a Franco-Asian Angkor Hotel A decent pool adds to the allure, but the restaurant is boutique, with imaginatively decorated, stylish rooms Adequate, long way from town 5/10 a tad overpriced and generally under-frequented. and extremely friendly management and staff. Each Airport Rd, Siem Reap room is a little different but they're all well-sized and T: (063) 964 999 F: (063) 964 567 Peace of Angkor Villa [email protected] comfortable, with the downstairs rooms concrete and Spacious and spotless 8/10 http://www.apsaraangkor.com the upstairs wooden. Try for an upstairs room if pos- 0133 Slorkram Village, Siem Reap $140 sible. A minor complaint is the lighting in the rooms, T: (063) 760 475; (012) 447 346 A classic cookie-cutter hotel aimed at tour groups, which is on the dim side. Among the places dotting the [email protected] Apsara Angkor has adequate rooms and the staff are airport road -- meaning you're beyond walking dis- http://www.peaceofangkor.com helpful, but given the far better options closer to town, tance of town -- this is easily the best choice. Highly s $15 d $20-35 you've been waylaid by a greedy travel agent if you've recommended. Located in what was previously the offices for the ended up here. Victoria Angkor Hotel, Peace of Angkor has abso- Earthwalkers Guest House lutely spotless and very spacious rooms -- the whole Great place, poor location 7/10 Smiley's Guesthouse place feels like it is brand new. All rooms are fully Sala Kanseng Village -- Sangkat No. 2, (Just off the Not worth your time 2/10 kitted out and come with TV, hot water, and bathtubs Airport Rd) Siem Reap West of Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap -- a novel feature in Siem Reap. Downstairs has an T: (012) 967 901 T: (012) 852 955;(012) 686 060 again spotless common dining area. Deluxe rooms are [email protected] [email protected] larger and have more furniture. Peace of Angkor also http://www.earthwalkers.no US$6-13 offer a range of photography-focussed tours, ranging Dorm $4 s 10-13 d 12-15 Ironically, Smiley's is one of the least smiley places in from one-day trips to and Despite this place being rather great, the location, town and we'd suggest not even worth considering. through to three-day tours of Battambang and Anlong near neither the temples nor town, is poor. Rooms, The rooms are okay, but staff are neither friendly nor Veng. Although a long walk from the centre of town, it including an air-con dorm are clean and staff are welcoming, except perhaps for the motodops or mini- is easily reached by bicycle or motorbike and is very friendly, offering an array of trips including some very bus drivers who try to drop you here quiet. interesting alternatives for the templed out. You do need your own transport if staying here, or else add Not worth considering? 8/10 Clean and Calm. Rating: 7/10 That's a bit harsh - We're not paying for bum-kissers, we're after the cost of a daily motodop to your stay. The place If you don't mind staying away from the main attractions then this a nice, clean, safe place to stay... Which it very much is.I stayed is a great place.Spotlessly clean and the hotel staff are extremely was started by a group of Norwegian hospitality stu- there Jan 2004 (a while ago now) and it was fine.I'd agree that the friendly and polite.Be careful before accepting a room, the first dents, and their expertise shows. staff aren't chirpy & bubbly, but they weren't rude or anything like two they showed were on the ground floor ajoining the restaurant. that either - just ''plain'' I suppose.The rooms were clean & fine, Only after refusing these two rooms did they show us a better the food was good & kitchen was open from like 6am-10pm, it room on the first floor - at the same price! 4/2005 Apsara Angkor Guesthouse was nice & quiet & relaxed, 100mtr from a main st... For $6 a Cheery backpacker haven 6/10 night... Who could complain?I stayed there for 5 days & would 279 Rd 6, Siem Reap easily go back again. 1/2004 Two Dragons Guesthouse and Res- T: (012) 779 678 taurant [email protected] Wat Bo Spotless and a great source of info 8/10 US$5-10 The backpacker's heartland -- loads of good budget Wat Bo, Siem Reap Down a sidestreet off the airport road, this cheery guesthouses along with some exceptional mid-range T: (012) 868 551 spot is one of the better options in an area with a resorts. While the old market area is a ten to 15 [email protected] range of budget lodgings. The rooms are clean but minute walk away, it is a pleasant riverside stroll. http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-twodragons.htm plain, though only the crummier ones have hot water. $5-25 The restaurant has the ambience of a bus shelter. La Residence d'Angkor The American/Thai owners of Two Dragons are also A fabulous spot - huge baths 9/10 the minds behind the Tales of Asia website -- one of Jasmine Lodge and Restaurant River Rd, Siem Reap the best Cambodia-focussed websites online -- mak- Some traffic noise, but friendly 6/10 T: (063) 963 390 F: (063) 963 391 ing this not only a good place to stay, but a great 307 Rd 6, Siem Reap [email protected] place to pick up information on travelling throughout T: (012) 784 980;(012) 530 843 http://www.pansea.com/ Cambodia. There is even a small upstairs terrace well [email protected] $285-440 suited to picking their brains over a few ice cold beers. http://www.jasminelodge.com This flashy five-star hotel is the most centrally lo- Rooms are spotless and comfortable, though a couple US$4-11 cated of the luxurious spots in town, though it's un- of the bathrooms are a little on the pokey side. The Clean with sleepy staff, two-building Jasmine has a likely you'll be leaving often as La Residence d'Angkor staff here are very friendly and welcoming. Down- range of rooms that are a reasonable size and clean, is an extremely tasteful retreat, with sprawling rooms stairs has a large and very comfortable restaurant -- although the location, particularly for the front build- boasting some of the biggest baths we've seen in a well suited to escaping the heat. Two Dragons can ing, means they come with traffic noise. The upstairs hotel. The rooms are all open plan with a contempo- arrange private taxi transport from Poipet to Siem area of the front building has a well-placed pool table rary Southeast Asian feel to them. The lovely pool Reap. Recommended. and small restaurant. It's about a 10-minute walk from might drag you outside. It's a fabulous looking hotel, the centre of town. 3 Siem Reap travel guide

Accommodation

Siem Reap 40 1 Mysteres d'Angkor 2 Peace of Angkor 3 Angkor Tip Guesthouse 4 La Noria 5 Rosy Guesthouse Wat Po Lanka 17 6 Angkor Discover Inn 1 7 Borann 8 European Guesthouse 38 9 Two Dragons 18 2 10 Home Sweet Home 39 19 11 Route 6 Royal 12 Sydney Angkor Cambodia gardens 13 Angkor Diamond Hotel Asia Bank 3 6 14 Le Residence Street 2 4 15 City Angkor Hotel Royal 7 SBC Bank 5 16 Golden Banana Residence 17 Angkor Century Hotel 40 Street N 3 18 Grand Hotel d'Angkor 19 Victoria Hotel 20 21 20 Casa Angkor Oum Khun S 21 FCC Angkor t 22 Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor 8 23 Shinta Mani Taphul Rd Rd 14 24 Naga Guesthouse 23 13 9 25 Orchidae Guesthouse 22 bor 10 Chhay St Stre 11 26 Ivy 2 Gusthouse et 5 Street Bo Rd 12 27 Dead Fish 37 Pokam Sivatha Blvd Oum 28 Vimean Thmei

Angkor Hospital Wat 14 29 Molly Malones Achameanfor Children 24 25 St 30 Ivy Guesthouse 31 Red Lodge 32 Golden Temple Villa 33 Red Piano Wat Bo A 26 34 Mandalay 27 Central 15 35 Guesthouse hospital 36 Ta Phrom Hotel Wat Preah 37 Hotel De La Paix See inset Prom Rath J Eat & Meet 28 B C H I A Happy Herb Pizza F G B Red Piano 31 32 33 E K C Temple Bar D L 34 ANZ 29 37 D Balcony UCB 35 M E In Touch 30 Bank Old F Buddha Lounge market G Pissa Italiana Canadia H Angkor What Bank I Soup Dragon 0 M Wat Damnak 36 J Blue Pumpkin K Khmer Kitchen 50 M 16 L Laundry M Funky Munky N Abacus

4 days at the Two Dragons http://www.angkor-hotel-lanoria.com include breakfast. Recommended. Had a totally relaxed stay at the 2 dragons guesthouse in early Jan $29-39 '05. The room I had came with a/c, cable, etc. The young ladies La Noria shares the same owners as Borann (which Fantastic Rating: 10/10 who work there were friendly and great for a laugh and a chat lies a block further east) and it shows. Lush gardens The staff were great and had a wonderful stay there. (within limits), especially the young lady that manages it for 10/2005 Gordon. The meals were so nice (you could see that hygene was give the rooms a great degree of privacy and the A+), I hardly ate anywhere else. Finally the cost was more then lovely deep pool, while not huge, is a perfect escape reasonable considering the untainted free advice, and extra serv- from Siem Reap's near midday heat. Rooms are spot- Mysteres d'Angkor ices on offer. My only suggestion is that Gordon considers offer- less and tastefully decorated with very clean bath- A good mid-range option 7/10 ing a discount on Jim Beam drinkies after the first 30 or so, or rooms and an overall airy feel. The staff here can be 235 Phum Slorkram, Wat Bo, Siem Reap maybe even a Happy hour :-DI'll be back. 12/2004 a little on the curt side, but the pool and rooms more T: (063) 963 639 It is fine Rating: 7/10 than compensate. A fine choice. [email protected] I found this place through the owner's very good tales of asia http://www.mysteres-angkor.com/ website (see the link above). I stayed here a couple of nights and Golden Banana Bed and Breakfast $34-40 thought it was pretty good, though I wasn't so comfortable stum- This French-run boutique hotel is a good out-of-the- Excellent value 8/10 bling back late at night from Bar St (I'm a girl!) - the 2 Dragon staff centre of Siem Reap choice, with the added bonus of later suggested I should have taken a motobike, but I didn't think Phum Wat Damnak, Siem Reap a refreshing swimming pool. There's also a comfort- it was that far - but it was! During daytime it is fine to walk, but at T: (012) 885 366 able bar and small restaurant on the second floor of a night I would say get a ride. I liked it and if I went to angkor again [email protected] restored wooden Khmer house and a series of duplex I would probably stay here. 1/2005 http://www.golden-banana.com/ bungalows spread through their lush and leafy grounds. s$18 d$20 R. P Rating: 10/10 Each bungalow building has four rooms, (two upstairs, The Golden Banana has a bunch of tasteful cottages I stayed at Two Dragons 12-16 March. Excellent...Ling, Conny two downstairs) and they are all tastefully decorated - and all the staff were great. Cleanest Place I have ever seen. in a lush garden well away from the hustle and bustle - a second floor room is generally a better option. One Excellent location...quiet 3/2006 of central Siem Reap. All rooms are air-con with hot minor quibble is the number of doors for each room -- water bathrooms and very firm beds. The front court- each has an outer door, then screendoor, then inner yard restaurant and upstairs sala are both loaded with La Noria glass doors, and on more than one occasion we found axe pillows -- perfect for escaping the hottest part of Lovely gardens and a pool 8/10 it a bit of a struggle to actually get inside! Doors the day. Extremely friendly and helpful staff, we've Siem Reap River Rd, Siem Reap aside, rooms are spotless, with good firm beds and received some very good reports about the Golden T: (063) 964 242 F: (063) 964 243 immaculate bathrooms. Very professional management. [email protected] Banana since our last visit. Gay friendly. All rates 4 www.travelfish.org

Rosy Guesthouse too loudly. Not a bad budget option, though be sure to Angkor Diamond Hotel ask to see another room if the first isn't up to scratch. Improved riverside spot 7/10 Bamboo obsession 5/10 Achasvar Rd, Siem Reap Siem Reap River Rd, Siem Reap T: (063) 965 059 City River Hotel T: (063) 380 038 F: (063) 964 449 [email protected] Spacious tour-group hotel 6/10 [email protected] http://www.rosyguesthouse.com/ 0511, Siem Reap River Rd, Wat Bo, Siem Reap http://www.angkordiamond-hotel.com dorm $3 s5-14 d5-17 t15-20 T: (063) 763 000 F: (063) 963 963 $35-50 This guesthouse has improved under the new English [email protected] Built by someone with an untreated bamboo obses- management with the pleasant streetfront bar being a http://www.cityriverhotel.com/ sion, the bungalows here are more of a longhouse good start. The well-sized rooms are clean and very $45-55 setup than bungalows and would be more suited to a well looked after, though some of the bathrooms are a The City River Hotel has spacious, spotless rooms, second-tier resort on Ko Samui. The rooms are clean, little on the steamy side. For the standard, the prices with the ones on the top floor particularly bright and but not very private and generally uninspiring. are quite reasonable and we've heard some very good airy. Rooms have all the standard features, but the reports about here since our last visit. City River is primarily a tour group hotel and feels like Marina Villa it. Their rack-rates are inflated so be sure to ask for a Surly staff 4/10 discount. Angkor Discover Inn Wat Bo, Siem Reap Spotless and quiet 7/10 $5-12 126 Phum Slorkram, Wat Bo, Siem Reap European Guest House Marina is a typical budget hotel with staff that we T: (063) 762 727;(012)598 281 F: (063) 963 692 Clean with good facilities 6/10 found to be particularly surly -- though others have [email protected] 566 Wat Bo, Siem Reap reported otherwise. The rooms are passable and rea- http://www.angkorinn.com T: (012) 582 237;(092)811 871 sonably well looked after, but there's little here that s$25 d35 [email protected] stands out in the crowd. This small hotel has spotless rooms in a mid-sized, $6-12 two-storey house with a small but pleasant terrace European Guest House has very clean, well-sized Surly Staff? Rating: 8/10 Stayed here: 1/2006 and cafe out front. The rooms are a tad on the small rooms in a large two-storey villa. The location is quiet The Ly family at Marina Guest House are some of the nicest size for the price, but they are immaculate and have and for the facilites, overall this is rather good value. people I've ever met. I can't imagine anyone there being SURLY. When was the last time you were there? small verandas, with some also having baths. The staff are friendly, though can get a little cagey if you start asking too many questions! Sydney Angkor Hotel The French Quarter Great value for a hotel 7/10 Between Sivatha Rd and the Siem Reap river, there's East side of the river, Wat Bo, Siem Reap some excellent mid-to upper range options to choose T: (063) 965 064;(012)543 152 from in this part of town, including some of Siem [email protected] Reap's most fabulous hotels. On the western side of http://www.sydneyangkor.com Sivatha Rd though you're back to backpacker and $10-17 flashpacker lodgings -- none of which are the pick of The Sydney Angkor Hotel is on the east side of Siem the bunch. Reap and represents very good value if you want to stay in a hotel rather than a guesthouse. The rooms Victoria Angkor Hotel are all very clean, well sized and come with a full Simply outstanding 9/10 complement of facilities. The staff speak good Eng- Central Park, Siem Reap lish and are quite helpful. It certainly isn't overflowing T: (063) 760 428 F: (063) 760 350 with character, but if you're after a comfortable cheap [email protected] hotel, this is excellent value. http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com $285-320 Bargain Rating: 7/10 The French-managed Victoria Angkor is simply out- I stayed there for 1 day with a fellow backpacker. She was charged standing. Rooms are very generously sized and taste- 12USD for the room as she didn't do her research. Pretty incovenient location I would say, right in the middle of the street fully decorated, although the leopard print couch in but it more than makes up for it with the army of trishaw drivers one room may be overdoing it. Staff are excellent -- out there. Nice cafe with moderately priced food. 9/2005 friendly, courteous and eager to please. The pool is a bit ostentatious, but it's very well-sized. Except for Sakura Village the fact it's quite new, it rivals the Grand just across the park. If its prices are within your budget, do con- Spotless rooms 6/10 sider it but be sure to check internet rates. Recom- House 455 Group 15 Wat Bo, Siem Reap mended. T: (012) 963 404; (012) 438 161 [email protected] http://www.gocambodia.com/villagesakura Lovely Guest House Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor $25 Classic colonial hotel 8/10 Almost lovely 6/10 This multi-storey guesthouse is spotlessly polished, 1 Vithea Charles de Gaulle, Siem Reap 31 Wat Bo, Siem Reap but the wooden furnishings and balconies are a bit T: (063) 963 888 F: (063) 963 168 T: (012) 580 276 overdone. The second floor has a very spacious and [email protected] $5-12 comfortable terrace -- ideal for cooling off in the late http://www.raffles-grandhoteldangkor.com The main guesthouse building is set behind the cute afternoon. $310-390 wooden building in the foreground. The rooms are This hotel is a spectacular example of classic colonial surprisingly good, very clean and well-maintained and lack of atmosphere Rating: 3/10 Stayed here: 6/2006 architecture, right down to the tiny vintage elevator. the staff are helpful. Overall the place is lacking in paid 15 dollar for an a/c double which was all right. it rained in The rooms are immaculate and seem slightly larger atmosphere compared to some other spots in the through the window, but otherwise the room was fine, though not than those at sister hotel Royal in Phnom Penh. If you clean. in general the place was not really comfortable, had a area, but if you just want a cheap, clean place to can afford this, go for it -- no other hotel in town weird atmosphere and i would not stay there again. 6/2006 sleep Lovely Guesthouse should suffice. comes near the ambience and style here. Be sure to check for internet rates. Angkor Thom Hotel Home Sweet Home Guesthouse Not character driven 6/10 A typical budget guesthouse 5/10 An immaculate Grand hotel Rating: 10/10 18 Wat Bo, Siem Reap 111 Wat Bo, Siem Reap I organise conferences and events and in the course of business, T: (012) 895 144;(063) 964 862 T: (063) 760 279;(012) 693 393 stay at five-star hotels around the world, so was looking forward [email protected] [email protected] to my stay at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor. I was not disappointed. $5-12 The hotel is superbly maintained and my room was immacu- http://www.catgen.com/sweethome/EN/0.html lately presented with many traditional features. The food in the This is a very long-running and comfortable place and $8-15 dining room was excellent and included a fine range of well-kept while you won't be rushing here for the character of This is a typical large backpacker guesthouse which French cheeses. Not a cheap hotel, but if it's quality, comfort and the place, it is more than adequate. Rooms are clean is totally devoid of character and has a very high style you are after, this is the place to stay in Siem Reap.2/2004 and moderately sized. Not a bad choice for the money. turnover of guests. On the upside, rooms are spot- less and very well-sized. There are far better places FCC Angkor Sunway Guesthouse and Restaurant to stay in the area. Stunning rooms but overpriced 8/10 Not a bad budget option 6/10 Pokambor Rd, Siem Reap 177 Wat Bo, Siem Reap 5 Nights In Siem Reap Rating: 7/10 T: (063) 760 280 F: (063) 760281 Nice spacious rooms with vaulted ceilings. The location is $1 T: (012) 898 692 F: (063) 963 446 ride to the markets and such via tuk-tuk. The family was friendly. [email protected] [email protected] The little Internet cafe on-site had much to be desired for, though. http://www.fcccambodia.com s$3-8 d4-12 Luckily there are other cafes nearby. 9/2004 $120-140 This very big, long-running and popular spot has a The Angkor branch of the FCC Phnom Penh has stun- ground floor restaurant serving backpacker food with ning rooms, fitted out with all the mod cons. With their a pool table and TV. Rooms are variable, with some bright, glass fronted designs however, you're better quite grimy, but for the money it's difficult to complain off specifying an upstairs room if you value your pri- 5 Siem Reap travel guide vacy. A lovely, well shaded pool sits as the centre of Angkor Century Resort and Spa rooms are poorly lit and the second flight of stairs is a lawn area and the spa here gets absolutely rave precarious, so watch your step. There is an internet Massive hotel 6/10 reviews. All that being said, it did strike us as a little cafe on the first floor. Komay Rd, Siem Reap overpriced, but if this is in your budget, the FCC T: (063) 963 777 F: (063) 963 789 Angkor is certainly worth considering. Rates include Really a nice terrace - and nice people! Rating: 9/10 [email protected] breakfast and are ++. We stayed there for 5 nights and it was a really good experience. http://www.angkorcentury.com Friendly people, clean rooms for reasonable prices and a really $220-255 great breakfast! 3/2003 Hotel de la Paix This massive place is a marginal step up from a cookie- Haute quality at high prices 8/10 cutter tour group hotel. Featuring cavernous and oddly Good Location, Nice People Rating: 7/10 Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap bouncy corridors and reasonably-sized rooms, it's pass- Nice place, cold air con, cable TV, hot water, refrigerator. Good restaurant too. Central location, across the street from the mar- T: (063) 966 000 F: (063) 966 001 able but given what its competitors offer in this price ket and a block from the bar/restaurant district. Door to our room http://www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com range it fails to win many stars. Look for a drastically would not lock and staff could not assist with this, so a pretty $165-300 reduced internet rate and it may be worthwhile. The major inconvenience. Also, some wierd bird(?) stuck in our ceil- An incongruous edifice, Hotel de la Paix does its best pool, while big, has little shade. ing kept us up most of the night... Would recommend however, to impress. By far the most boutique place in Siem very happy overall. $15USD for two beds. 11/2005 Reap, it's geared towards an urbane clientele for whom Great guesthouse Rating: 8/10 a hotel is just as important as the destination. There's Old Market While a handful of budget lodgings lie around here -- I had a great time here. It's a great location, around the corner nothing remotely Cambodian about La Paix with the from the central market and ''pub street'', across from the river exception of their Meric restaurant, which serves up some of which are very good -- the old market area is so you can enjoy sitting on the veranda. The people are very obscure Cambodian dishes. Rooms have subdued light- more of a shopping, feasting and drinking zone than friendly and helpful, the rooms are clean and comfortable. There's ing and smell faintly of fresh paint. La Paix's vaguely anything else. You can choose to stay in the heart of a great atmosphere here too because lots of people come here to Art Deco design is continued with clean lines and the old market, or across Sivatha Road there's a stay. Good food in the restaurant. 6/2006 luxurious materials in every room: polished granite, bunch of budget guesthouses. marble and wood. iPods are complimentary in every Ivy Guesthouse and Bar II room, and feature lectures on Cambodian history along Red Lodge A great backpacker choice 8/10 with their music selection. The serene swimming pool Good value and friendly 8/10 Near the river, Siem Reap in la Paix's courtyard is best at night, when lit from Stung Tha-mai , End of Rd to Les Artisans D'Angkor, T: (012) 800 860 within by blue lights. There's also a large, multi-level Siem Reap [email protected] spa with both Thai and standard massages available. T: (012) 707 048 $6-8 Yoga and relaxation classes are offered in the private [email protected] The Ivy Guesthouse and Bar II is related to the same- workshop. Though Hotel de la Paix's rooms are over- http://www.redlodgeangkor.com/ named popular bar and guesthouse in town. Set in a priced, its Art Lounge and Meric restaurant are highly $6-10 two-storey house, you're only a five-minute walk from recommended; it's a taste and a view of Cambodia This multi-storey, friendly guesthouse is a five- to ten- the old market area. Rooms are well-sized and clean, that one is unlikely to find anywhere else. minute walk from the old market and is a very popular though they can be a little noisy around 4am when backpacker spot, boasting simple yet spacious rooms other guests' alarms go off! Overall the whole place Auberge Mont-Royal d'Angkor with high-ceilings. There's also a small rooftop ter- has a homely feel to it. Out front there is a pool table, a pleasant restaurant and a lay-about area, with com- Creature comforts without paying the earth 7/10 race, and a common area with a big screen projector fortable reclining chairs and a pool table. The food is 497 Taphul, Siem Reap for evening flicks. All rooms come with breakfast and good backpacker fare, with the potato-cake-things T: (012) 630 131;(063) 964 044 bicycle hire -- the latter a real bonus. great value and good hangover material. There is also [email protected] an upstairs terrace with more lazy chairs and a ham- http://www.auberge-mont-royal.com couldn't stay there Rating: 2/10 tried and failed to book with them several days in advance. Very mock. Very friendly staff. A very good, backpacker $25-50 slow on advising whether a booking has been accepted (in fact, orientated spot. Recommended. Family-run Auberge Mont-Royal sits away from the once they knew they didn't have room, they didn't bother to tell busier parts of Siem Reap and is a reasonable option me). lovely. Rating: 10/10 for those looking for creature comforts without paying this is an extremely nice guesthouse. nice rooms, and superb THE GREATEST! Rating: 10/10 the earth. Yellow throughout, the rooms tend towards atmosphere - friendly staff, very chilled out, with a lovely patio this is the best place I have ever stayed at..no wonder it is full !!! the plain but do have some comfortable furnishings. If (and terrace), cold beers and good food. recommended (i wouldn't great people, space to relax, snacks. It is the only place that really go anywhere else!!!). 7/2006 the owners doubled the size of their fish tank they'd has a soul!!!! the rest of the places are cold and non-caring. 12/ have had a pool and this would be excellent value. 2004 Golden Temple Villa Shinta Mani Excellent value 8/10 Very slick and stylish 7/10 Off Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap Om Khun and 14th Street, Siem Reap T: (012) 999 918 T: (063) 761 998 F: (063) 761 999 [email protected] [email protected] http://www.goldentemplevilla.com/ http://www.sanctuaryresorts.com/shintamani s$9-15 d10-18 t 12-23 $144-160 Golden Temple is excellent value, boasting spotless We'd say this boutique hotel is a little before its time and very comfortable rooms. Staff are chatty and and probably more suited to a beach on Ko Samui although a bunch of brothels down the road brings the than a muddy backroad in Siem Reap. It does boast area down a notch in terms of classiness, it's still a very slick and stylish rooms and offers a comprehen- hassle-free part of town. The rooms come with clean, sive range of spa and health therapies, though with a hot water bathrooms, and, as there are plenty of rooms one-hour massage starting at US$30, it is a touch here, this is a good option to try in high season when overpriced. The pool is a little small. Be sure to check places are filling up. for internet rates. Excellent! Rating: 8/10 Extremely clean and cheap. Paid $7/night for double room with Naga Guesthouse fan and hot water. Nicely furnished room with new linens and Clean but basic 6/10 television. 15 minutes of free internet access each day. Decent Achamean Rd, Siem Reap cafe and friendly staff. 7/2005 $5 Good room, shame about the service Rating: 5/10 Just up the road from Orchidae Guest House, Naga is No complaints about the rooms, which are quite new and modern cheap and the rooms are okay, but again the traffic with proper cable TV. Also the price was reasonable. But the noise is a pain so try for a room away from the road. service was awful - the free pick up service was nowhere to be Rooms are clean but basic. seen, laundry service took 48 hours (after a promise of 24 hours), our room was not properly cleaned and the internet wasn't work- ing the entire time we were there. Also, they had a strange insist- Casa Angkor Hotel ence on being paid immediately for extras like laundry and bottled Very pleasant 6/10 water - no ''put it on my room'' here. 1/2006 Oum Khun Rd, Siem Reap Shadow of Angkor Not recommended at all Rating: 2/10 T: (063) 963 658-9 F: (063) 963 657 A great veranda 8/10 [email protected] We made an online booking through travelfish. First, nobody picked 353 Group 10, Old Market area, Siem Reap us up in the airport, although numerous emails have been ex- http://www.casa-angkor.com T: (063) 964 774 F: (016) 387 666 changed prior to the trip, followed by a phone call. The booking fee s$60-70 d 80-90 [email protected] charged by this website was ignored and they still demanded we Casa Angkor's rooms are light and airy, and come with $9-15 pay a full amount of $18 per room/night with aircon. I lost my pleasant verandas and shuttered windows. Although Shadow of Angkor (previously known as Rasmei booking fee. They ignored the printed booking confirmation, not friendly and helpful at all. The receptionists have intimidated looks. overall it's a bit overpriced, the deluxe rooms are Angkor) is one of the few budget places overlooking certainly worth the extra $10. The terrace rooms how- Bathroom was dirty, smelly and the water was stuck in the bath- the Siem Reap river in the market area, and though tub *yikes* The lovely trip would be perfect if not because of the ever would be a little quieter. All are spacious and their rooms are good, what really makes this place is experience w/ this hotel. Everything else was fabulous. 5/2006 clean. the long terraced veranda where you can spend the hot midday hours taking it easy in style. Some of the

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Molly Malone's Irish Pub and Guest- The Red Piano Located well out of Siem Reap, but very close to Angkor Wat, this French-run place has a lovely little Very popular, very red 7/10 house garden setting with clean and very tastefully deco- 50m Northwest of old market, Siem Reap Excellent rooms 8/10 rated rooms with spotless bathrooms. The small on- T: (063) 963 240 Just off Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap site restaurant is good for breakfast. The main issue [email protected] T: (063) 963 533 here is that while you're very close to Angkor, you're http://www.redpianocambodia.com/ [email protected] quite a way from everything else. A new attached s$18 d20 t24 http://www.mollymalonescambodia.com resort adds another 20 rooms along with a swimming The Red Piano opened their new guesthouse in late s$20 d30 t45 pool to Pavilion Indochine's offerings. 2004 (the old guesthouse was on the top floor of their While an Irish Pub may well be just about the last thing same-named restaurant) and while the location is not you'd expect to see in Siem Reap, the rooms at Molly maurice nicola Rating: 9/10 as convenient as the old, it remains very popular. Malone's are an excellent choice for the mid-range I have a wonderfull stay at Pavillon Indochine. Staff is very helpfull, Rooms are immaculate and very well maintained, all traveller. Spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated, food is more than great and they have a wonderfull swimming with air-con, TV, fridge and hot water. Aimed now more the rooms have four-poster beds and are all decked pool. It is full of charm and authentic. And location nis great as at mid-range tourists than backpackers, the new guest- well. Not far from town at all (only 5 minutes with tuk tuk), just out with air-con, TV and hot water bathrooms. The house is very popular and reservations are highly behind 5 stars Le Meridien. For those who loves nature and prefer location above the pub is handy as there are some recommended. calm and serenity instead noisy city... 11/2005 very good eating options nearby. Recommended.

Great location Rating: 9/10 Ivy Guesthouse Spent 5 nights here quite happily. Rooms are new and well fur- Eat & Meet Historic building, modern conveniences 8/10 nished. Hot water, AC, cable TV and a bar fridge were all in- Central Siem Reap Old market area, Siem Reap cluded in the USD$18/night. You are close enough to walk quickly into the centre of town, but the street is quiet so that you don't get The vast majority of places to eat and drink are clus- T: (012) 800 860 woken too early. Would recommend it highly if you feel like tered near the centre of old Siem Reap, on and around [email protected] splashing out a bit with your cash. 6/2005 the aptly named Bar Street. A plethora of choices http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-ivy-ivy1.htm await, and looking at the construction in this area a lot $15-25 Bakong Guesthouse more places are on the way. Expect a very western- One of the most centrally located guesthouses in Very variable rooms 6/10 orientated experience. If you want cheap Khmer food, town now that the Red Piano has moved out west, the 1 Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap head to the market. Ivy's a comfortable place to spend time, both day and T: (063) 380 126 F: (063) 963 419 night. Ivy's six rooms have a rare historical authentic- http://www.bakong-guesthouse.com/ ity in a boom town where few buildings are more than Abacus $20 five years old. Each room has floor-to-ceiling doors Simply outstanding 10/10 The Bakong is more of a small hotel than guesthouse, (painted ivy green, of course) that open to a rather Oum Khun St, Siem Reap with variable rooms - some are spacious and airy, noisy balcony. Still, the air-con drowns out most of T: (012) 644 286 others cramped caves. If you're going to stay here, the street noise from below. Rooms are dark, but well- Abacus is simply outstanding -- we'd say easily the be sure to specify a room with windows. Popular with ventilated and cool. Both small and large rooms are best restaurant in Siem Reap. A combination of se- tour groups. pleasant and offer the same amenities. The Ivy Bar ductive leafy grounds spread around a traditional Siem downstairs serves good western and Asian food. It's Reap house, jovial host Renaud, exquisite food, prompt Comfortable stay and very friendly service, the black and bouncy Os- a good idea to sit inside the bar area, rather than in I had a nice & clean room with windows upfront. Downstairs they the garden area, as local kids tend to beg or stick have a neat bar and a sitting area, very enjoyable 9/2005 car and above all the particularly reasonable prices, their hands through the ivy-covered trellises. Recom- all sum up for a perfect ten at Abacus. Although mended for a place to get away from the chaos of Ta Phrom Hotel priced above a backpacker budget, if you're looking downtown Siem Reap without actually leaving it. for a splurge on international cuisine (very meat Tour group fave 5/10 focussed) then do not even consider anywhere else Near the market, Siem Reap Dead Fish Tower till you have eaten here at least once. Highly recom- T: (063) 380 117 F: (063) 380 116 mended. Rooms with crocodiles 7/10 [email protected] Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap http://www.angkorhotels.org/taphrom/en/8.html T: (063) 963 060 s$35-40 d40-45 Khmer Kitchen [email protected] Nothing much to recommend at the Ta Phrom Hotel. Authentic Khmer Food 9/10 http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-deadfish.htm The rooms are clean but featureless and appear to be The Passage, Siem Reap s$10 d12-20 mainly aimed at tour groups. The location very close Don't be misled by the unassuming exterior - Khmer The Dead Fish has an eclectic mix of rooms, including to the market and lots of bars and restaurants is Kitchen has some of the finest Cambodian cuisine in some with crocodiles, varying considerably in size great, but it doesn't justify their high rates. town, with dishes full of complex flavour and textures. (the rooms, not the crocodiles), with some a little Service can be slow, but meals are worth the wait. The cramped. Some appear to have been furnished with restaurant has a pleasantly run-down feel, with local the spoils of a 1970's Scandinavian retro sale. All are Towards Angkor Wat artists' works hanging on faded walls. At night, light- spotless, though the housekeepers are heavy-handed A few hotels are scattered further afield, particularly ing is very dim, and could be improved by tabletop with the cleaner. on the road to Angkor, but what you gain in proximity candles. Khmer Kitchen is in an alleyway running par- to the ruins, you lose in distance from Siem Reap town allel to Bar Street referred to as The Passage, a Cool scene but a little pricey Rating: 7/10 and its rich selection of eateries and other distrac- dining/gallery backstreet sandwiched between Pub Funky guesthouse on the main strip near 'New market'. Well tions. Street and the Old Market. Excellent location and appointed rooms with brightly painted walls. Rates include free prices, too. Highly recommended. head massage, shave and 15 minutes of internet. Unfortunately the amount of street traffic and noise from the restaurant make it La Villa Loti Coconut House difficult to get a decent night's sleep. If you are a white male, be A fantastic hidden-way spot 9/10 Blue Pumpkin prepared to be solicited by pimps at some point during your stay. River Rd, Siem Reap Very popular 8/10 7/2005 T: (012) 888 403 Between the old market and hospital, Siem Reap Expensive, but pleasant Rating: 6/10 [email protected] T: (063) 963 574 First things first, Dead Fish is not great value for your money. http://www.coconut-hotel-angkor.com/ [email protected] However, if you have no problem paying 20$ a night, you will get $25-30 This cafe, restaurant and bakery is very popular and a nice, exquisitely decorated twin room with AC and TV. We had This is a fantastic hidden-way spot, just across the deservedly so, with a great menu of Asian and west- no problems with any noise. The restaurant downstairs is rather road from the river. La Villa Loti doesn't have many ern food making it a super escape from the midday over-priced (7$ for set breakfast!), and while the architecture and rooms, so in-season a reservation is a very good heat. The onsite bakery makes this a good breakfast general feeling of the place is really fascinating, I don't recom- mend eating there. The staff are helpful, but really not too compe- idea. Set in a new wooden building, the rooms are very spot. Their new premises will strike anyone from Bang- tent. 4/2006 tasteful, with the upstairs ones particularly fine. The kok as a Bed Supper Club ripoff, and while very com- upstairs area also has an excellent shaded veranda fortable, with wireless internet access and a slick Mandalay Inn with hammocks, making it a great spot to recover from feel, the acoustics are awful and eventually drove us a day of temple climbing. Very friendly, welcoming out with a splitting headache. Very, very white. Very friendly, good food 7/10 staff. Recommended. 148 Sivatha Rd, Siem Reap Funky Munky T: (063) 963 960 delightful! Rating: 9/10 [email protected] stayed here for 3nights visiting angkor! Hotel staff were so friendly Comfort food, good company 8/10 http://www.mandalayinn.com/ and helpful with all my requests which were many. The rooms Near the old market, facing the Siem Reap River, Siem $10-15 are tastefully decorated and with a wonderful balcony with cush- Reap For the location and generous size of the rooms, ions and a hammock for each room!! just wonderful 4/2006 Though inconspicuous during daylight hours, at night Mandalay Inn isn't bad value, though some of the the place emits an eerie glow as light reflects off blue bathrooms are a bit grubby, so ask to see a couple of Pavillon Indochine walls into the street. It's located next to the Siem rooms if need be. The Burmese restaurant out front is Very close to Angkor 7/10 Reap river at the fringe of the ever-expanding old good. The staff here are very friendly. Rd to Angkor, Siem Reap market tourist area. A favorite with both French- and T: (012) 804 303 English-speaking expats, mainly due to the adept min- Budget Rating: 3/10 [email protected] gling skills of its British owners, one of whom is al- Almost opposite to central market (not that there are lots of stuff http://www.pavillon-indochine.com/ ways present. Decor is eclectic: Americana and movie there). Internet cafe nearby. Watch the floods in rainy weather...:( posters line the blue walls and benches have been 9/2005 s$25 d30 7 Siem Reap travel guide softened by oversized handmade cushions. Their menu Temple Bar potential, only to have tacky plastic menus in Khinglish mainly features authentic western food, though Khmer offering items such as Golden Blue (cordon bleu)? Grab a veranda seat 7/10 dishes are available upon request. It's an ideal place Just to be daring we tried the Golden Blue only to be Bar Street for travellers looking for a taste of home. asked how we would like our chicken cooked -- extra The Temple Bar owned by the same mob behind the rare please! Food aside, the bar and restaurant is a Golden Temple Guesthouse is popular for its happy top spot for hanging out in the heat people watching, Ivy Guesthouse and Bar hours and pleasant streetside seating. However the though we'd suggest an ounce of caution with regards Popular backpacker's bar 8/10 service here can be very lacklustre -- twice we walked the food. Their drinks are nice and cold at least. Old Market area, Siem Reap out after waiting 15 minutes to be served. If you're This very popular backpacker's bar also has a typical patient, try for one of the two upstairs veranda tables western menu and Khmer traveller food on offer -- the (there are more up there but without views), where the Around Angkor Historical Park servings are very generous. The beers are ice-cold view is good and the staff friendly and chatty. While the mainstay of Angkorian eateries are the ba- and this can be a very good spot to meet other trav- sic stalls that dot the base of the individual monu- ellers. Full bar and very friendly, professional staff. The Balcony ments, more sophisticated options are beginning to Great coffee 7/10 appear. Pissa Italiana This pleasant upstairs cafe and gallery has a very Top pizzas! 8/10 comfortable terrace and focuses on health food, serv- Angkor Cafe Bar Street ing no alcohol. Their coffee is excellent -- best in Asia Tranquil Templing Break 9/10 T: (012) 440 382 wrote one guest -- but the food is a bit iffy and the Opposite Angkor Wat A great option for well-priced super-tasty pizzas. Some menu is preachy to say the least. Though it seems half the businesses in town have of the pizza toppings are a little crypic, such as the incorporated Angkor into their names, this cafe' actu- Quatro Formaggi that comes with just three cheeses, The Soup Dragon ally deserves its moniker, with a choice location di- but once they arrive, the names don't matter! The Roll Your Own 7/10 rectly across the road from Angkor Wat. Food and Cambodian Updated is excellent. Service can be slow. Near the market drink are provided by the famous Blue Pumpkin chain T: (063) 964 933;(012) 725 438 and sleek wooden ambiance by the boutique Artisans Red Piano [email protected] d'Angkor. There's also an outdoor seating area, filled Great people watching 8/10 The Soup Dragon's three floors of indoors/outdoors with flowers and manicured shrubs. It's paved with Bar Street balcony seating serve a comprehensive Vietnamese weathered terracotta tiles and tour buses are nearly The Red Piano has good western and Khmer food, menu backed up by tasty Khmer standards. If you screened off by bamboo fences. with very cheerful staff. Nothing Khmer about the like playing with your food check out the beef or Belgian Fries, but they are excellent. Snacks and shrimp fondues. A mastery of chopstickmanship is chips aside, the newly-opened upstairs section offers required as you boil your meat in a vinegar hot-pot Angkor great people-watching opportunities and you're almost before wrapping it in a soft spring-roll pancake laced out of earshot of the plethora of tuk-tuk drivers and with coconut juice and green banana. There is also a Angkor is, quite simply, one of the most splendid book vendors. fairly good sunset happy hour(s) on the top floor here. attractions in all of . Long considered "lost", the ruins of Angkor were never really lost to the Khmers, who, throughout their history have used the Laundry Angkor What? monuments as a religious site. Clean fun 8/10 Cliched backpacker bar 7/10 Old market area, Siem Reap Bar St, Siem Reap The myth of "The Lost Ruins of Angkor" is more suit- Clean, fun club in the centre of town, Laundry opens Surely scribbled on walls are out of vogue by now? able to an Angelina Jolie film that the history books. as late as need be. Very good tunes, pool table, full Certainly not at Angkor What? where the walls are The story more or less begins with their being "redis- bar. Great spot. scribbled with all sorts of illegible thoughts. This place covered" by western explorers in the mid to late 19th starts slowly but can be heaving later in the evening century, beginning with the French botanist Henri with wasted tourists and the Mouhot who stumbled across Angkor Wat in 1860. odd local alike. Friendly Few remember though that Mouhot was led to the site service and cheap drinks. by a Khmer guide and that when he arrived, he found a flourishing Buddhist monastery within the temple Dead Fish grounds... Whacky spot 7/10 Sivatha Blvd, Siem Reap During the period, the ruins were largely The whacky wooden multi- left to their own devices, yet like most Khmers, even level Dead Fish features a was unable to shake the power of the site, bar and crocodile pit. It does saying in October 1977, "If our people can make mainly Thai food, some very Angkor, they can make anything." good, some very awful. The design is excellent and the Never lost, lost then found, found then lost then found crocodile pit you have to again -- today it doesn't really matter. With thousands jump to get to the bathroom of people visiting the site every day, the sprawling is very inspired. Drawback Angkor Wat Historical Park remains an "absolute must here is the often awful mu- see at least once in a lifetime" destination. sic. FCC A clone 7/10 Sights and attractions Great art-deco building on the riverside with pleasant Angkor Wat indoor, outdoor and balcony the masterpiece of an unknown Michelangelo 10/10 dining. Menu is identical to the Phnom Penh branch Described by the French officer Francis Garnier as Madame Butterfly which is uncreative and disappointing. Service up to "the masterpiece of an unknown Michelangelo" Angkor Wat, or the city that became a , is the single Seductive ambience, but touristy 7/10 FCC standards. largest religious monument in the world and is consid- Airport Rd ered by historians to be the penultimate example of Located well out of town on the Airport Rd, Madame Buddha Lounge classic Khmer architecture. Butterfly offers Khmer and Thai cuisine in a stunning Good music, bad toilet 6/10 wooden house. We found the food to be particularly Bar St, Siem Reap Built between 1113 and 1150 during the reign of King good, though toned down for a tourist palate. The T: (016)525 498 Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took well over 30 years wooden house is a lovely example of old-style Khmer Buddha Lounge is just another one of the bar/restau- to complete and upon completion it was dedicated to buildings and it is a crying shame so few remain. The rant joints on Bar Street. There is little to distinguish it the Hindu god . In size alone Angkor Wat is restaurant attracts a lot of tourists and prices are from the other places, although the service here is far breathtaking. The outer walls stretch for 1.5 km east inflated (including an odd $1 local tax). Overall it is a better than Temple Bar across the road. Drink prices to west and 1.3 km north to south and the walls are little overpriced, but worth a try for the house. are reasonable and the food (Khmer and international) encircled by a beautiful moat that is almost 200 me- is fine. The toilets though are vile. tres wide -- the entire site takes in some 200 hec- Sang Hi tares. Riverside Dining at Reasonable Prices 7/10 In Touch By the river, Siem Reap Food doesn't match slick interior 5/10 Unusually for a Khmer temple, Angkor Wat is orien- A thatched open-air spot right over the Siem Reap Bar Street tated to the west and as west is symbolically associ- River, Sang Hi serves an assortment of Khmer and T: (063) 965 006 ated both with death and Vishnu there has been some Chinese food in three sizes, all at prices comparable How is it a place can spend a fortune renovating what debate over the purpose of Angkor Wat -- tomb or to other restaurants in the Old Market area. Sang Hi's were once a bunch of ugly shopfronts into a spec- temple? The prevalent opinion is that Angkor Wat was small portion is adequate for one person and the me- tacular two level corner bar with absolutely terrific both -- a temple to Vishnu and a tomb for its creator, dium for two. Service is prompt and enthusiastic. Suryavarman II. 8 www.travelfish.org

To Banteay Srei, , , Beng Mealea Preah Khan's

Terrace of the , Leper King Royal Palace Tep Pranam Eastern Baray Terrace of To Elephants Banteay Samre

Western Baray Ta Phrom Angkor Thom

Phnom Bakheng

Sieam Reap International Airport Angkor Wat

To Siem Reap To Siem Reap To Siem Reap To Siem Reap

Like all temple mountains, Angkor Wat is a model of an hour or so) the interior central temple will not be so Eastern wall, southern section the divine -- playing out the in both crowded as many will have moved onto the Bayon. Churning of the sea of milk its construction and its spectacular bas-reliefs. At the Another spectacular piece, this 49 metre panel tells a centre of the Hindu (and Buddhist) universe sits Mount The galleries display some of the most beautiful and part of the story of the Hindu creation epic the churn- Meru -- a holy peak some 450,000km high on the intricate of Angkor's carvings and as with the Bayon ing of the sea of milk. In this epic, the gods (to the mythical continent Jambudvipa. Atop the mountain this is a good area to have a guide to take you through left) and the demons (to the right) agree to cooperate sits the home of and other gods of both reli- the blow by blow details of the reliefs. In our opinion to churn the sea of milk -- by churning it for 1,000 gions. At Angkor Wat, this mountain is represented by the three best sections are heavens and hell, churn- years an elixir that cause immortality is created and Angkor's central tower which in turn is surrounded by ing of the sea of milk and battle of Lanka, but it is the gods and demons agreed to share it. Although not smaller peaks, then the continents are represented interesting to walk through the lot. depicted in the mural, as soon as the elixir started to by the outer courtyards and finally the ocean is illus- flow the gods reneged on their part of the deal while trated with the moat. This ocean is bridged by a naga In summary the main galleries are as follows: the demons tried to steal it. From that point on, every- bridge which allowed man to cross from the land of thing goes pear-shaped. Note at the central part of mortals to that of the Gods -- the sandstone cause- Western wall southern section: the , towards the bottom, all the sea life that is way that runs across the moat from the west. Battle of Kurukshetra being cut to pieces by the force of the churning. Just This 49 metre long stretch follows the battle of above them is a turtle, (a vehicle of the Hindu god In walking across Angkor's naga bridge and entering Kurukshetra -- a prominent Hindu epic between the Vishnu) which supports the mountain when it threat- the complex, you are traversing the ocean from the sibling clans of Kauravas (from the left) and the ens to sink into the sea. Above the mountain Vishnu real world to that of the gods -- stepping from conti- Pandavas (from the right) for the throne of Hastinapura. directs operations. This is a fascinating relief and nent to continent and then scaling a peak some It has been theorised that the battle took place in the catches the morning sun beautifully. 750,000km high -- there's no escalator. modern state of Haryana in India around 3067BC and ran on for centuries. At each end of the relief note how Eastern wall, northern section At the time of its construction the outer walls would orderly the two military processions are while towards Victory of Vishnu over the Asuras have encircled not just the central temple but also a the centre things get increasingly out of hand culmi- This 52m metre stretch is pretty ordinary when com- city of considerable size along with the Royal palace. nating in much death and mayhem. Look in particular pared to some of the other reliefs and is believed to As these buildings were wooden, nothing remains, for the chieftains carried in chariots and on elephant- have been carved a long time after the other reliefs, although some remnants of the road within the city back. perhaps by Chinese artisans. The relief depicts Vishnu were traced out as a part of restoration work. Angkor's fighting a legion of Asuras (demons). One point of most famous custodian, Frenchman Maurice Glazier Southern wall western section interest is just north of centre is a group of unknowns comments that of all the Angkorian monuments, Angkor Historical gallery mounted on gigantic birds. Wat, protected by its large moat was the best placed This 90 metre gallery is dedicated to the creator of to withstand the onslaught of the jungle. This protec- Angkor Wat, Suryavarman II and follows a regal pro- Northern wall, eastern section tion was further assisted by the fact that ever since cession which transforms into a military parade before Victory of Krishna over Bana the mid 13th century, Angkor Wat has remained in use changing again to a religious procession. Note how As with the Victory of Krishna over the Asuras, this is as a place of Buddhist worship -- a temple remains early on the relief is in two parts with the royalty and a poorly finished set of reliefs that stretches for 66 within its grounds to this day -- oft supplying a steady hangers-on in the top half while the palace women metres. Depicting another battle scene, many of the flow of saffron clad monks for your holiday snaps. parade on the lower half. When the theme switches to key deities can be picked out but the carving is so a more militaristic theme, look for the many chiefs on poor, you're better off continuing on to the next sec- When approaching from the west, one needs to cross elephant back -- their rank is marked by the number of tion where the workmanship improves considerably. the moat via the still-being-restored, sandstone cause- parasols that surround them -- the King, Suryavarman way to the outer (western) gopura. Before entering the II, is on the 12th elephant. Later the soldiers disperse Northern wall, western section gopura, take a quick diversion to the south where to be replaced by Brahmin priests with little bells while Battle of Devas and Asuras stands a grand statue of Vishnu, which, with its saf- at the far end march some Siamese (who were Khmer This 94 metre long panel contains a series of battle fron drapery, is particularly photogenic in late after- allies of the time) note their distinctly different manner scenes between 21 of the most prominent members of noon. of dress, somewhat wild look and their casual march- the Hindu pantheon and their opposing demons. Some ing. of the characters include Kubera the god of wealth, After passing through the gopura you reach the most mounted on a peacock Skanda the god of war, stunning of Angkor Wat's many viewpoints. Delayed Southern wall, eastern section on a four tusked elephant, four-armed Vishnu upon until the last moment, as you step through the door- Heavens and hell , Yama the god of the dead, in a chariot drawn way you're treated to an absolute visual feast as the One of our favourite sections, the heaven and hell by oxen, with a drawn bow and also in a chariot, central temple is revealed in all of its splendour. From relief goes through the judging of the good and evil. Surya the sun god and lastly Varuna the god of the the western gopura walk down the central walkway Heaven may well look rather droll and boring, but it is waters with a five-headed tethered naga. which is flanked by two libraries, the northern one of certainly a better option than hell, where, the further which is being restored and to the two ponds. If you're you wander along, the more and more awful the pun- Western wall, northern section arriving for dawn, the view from the northwest corner ishments become. Tongues pulled out, being torn to Battle of Lanka of the northern pond is the better of the two pond pieces, boiled alive or having nails driven into the This 51 meter-long panel is one of the most outstand- views. Following dawn, most tend to hustle into the body are but a few of the punishments that wait for ing, depicting a legendary battle in which and central temple and climb to its apex, we'd suggest you bad Khmers. The carvings are particularly graphic his monkey-allies defeat Ravana in order to rescue instead do a loop through the galleries that encircle (more so on the hell side than the heaven side) -- note Sita. The attention to detail is excellent and the mon- the monument first, saving the climb for later. Not only the emaciated state of those in hell as they are thrown key faces, some biting legs and arms of the enemy, will you have the murals largely to yourself, but by the around by demons and whipped into (or out of) shape. exceptional. Note some of the weapons which are time you've finished (a full circuit at a slow pace takes used including tree trunks, stones and monkey teeth.

9 Siem Reap travel guide

Itineraries There are two main routes (or circuits) which have been popularised over the One day (actually one and a half days) years -- the Petit Circuit (17km) and the Grand Circuit (26km). While any Buy your temple pass after 16:00 the previous day and you're allowed to driver worth his mettle should know them off by heart, these routes are best visit the monument that afternoon for free, so start off with a late afternoon used as a rough starting point from where you can mix and match your own visit to Angkor then hustle up the Bakheng with every other soul in town for plan for the monuments -- don't let your driver steamroll you into a certain the sunset views. The next morning, be out of your guesthouse by 04:30 for route he wants to do -- it's your holiday -- not his! dawn at Angkor, then skedaddle over to the Bayon before the hordes get there. Once you're done with Bayon, decamp somewhere for some noodles Petit Circuit and coffee, then head back to Angkor Thom to take in the main sites -- Commencing at Angkor Wat, the Petit Circuit heads north to , Baphuon, the Palace enclosure and the terraces. By now the day will be then Angkor Thom and all it contains (including the Bayon, the Elephant and warming up, so it's time to get you're picnic lunch out and have a leisurely Leper terraces and the Baphuon), then leaves via the vistory gate to Chau meal beside Srah Srei (women's bath) in the Royal Palace enclosure -- well- Sey Tevoda, and Ta Keo. After Ta Keo it strikes northeast to Ta shaded with comfy steps to relax on, this is a gem of a place to while away Nei, before turning south first to Ta Phrom, then east to Banteay Kdei and a few hours, and certainly beats heading back into dusty Siem Reap. Once Sra Srang. After Sra Srang it returns to Angkor Wat via . you're recharged, pack up and head out at a very leisurely pace to Ta Phrom, continuing on through Banteay Srei to Srah Srang, where there are Grand Circuit more food and drink stalls. Take your time in these sites. As the sun starts The Grand Circuit is an add-on to the Petit Circuit where, instead of leaving to dip, you can head to the far end of Sra Srang for some great pictures, or Angkor Thom via the Victory Gate it instead strikes north via the northern perhaps back into Angkor Wat for another visit. gate first to Preah Khan and Preah , then east to and south to Pre Rup. Following Pre Rup it loops around returning to Angkor Wat. Two Days Use the one day trip as a base, allowing some more time at each site. While few people follow the above blow by blow (they were originally done on Notable additions should be Preah Khan, Banteay Samre and Banteay Srei. elephant back), the above plans to cover most of the highlights of the Do the second day's dawn at the Bakong over in the Roulos Group and try monuments so you can easily pick the best from each and put together your the second day's sunset at either Pre Rup or Ta Keo. own itinerary. Three or more days Many travellers busy themselves trying to scheme a way to dodge all the For each extra day add in Beng Mealea, Kbal Spean and Phnom Kulen. hordes, but in the end, there's a reason why these places are so popular and Aside from these additions don't forget to revisit the other sites -- one of the on occasion it can be worth your while to put up with the crowds. wonderful things about Angkor is the monuments can be totally different through the day -- under a morning sun, late sun, just before a thunderstorm, We'd suggest you bite the bullet and fit in at least one dawn or sunset at after a downpour. Revisit, revisit and revisit again! Angkor Wat, but the other monuments can easily be visited at other times of the day to dodge the hordes. Remember that the middle of the day is the quietest (and the hottest), but if you opt for covered sites at that time of the day -- Ta Phrom, Preah Khan and Banteay Kdei are all good examples -- then you'll escape some of the worst heat.

Once you have finished with the last of the reliefs, re- or by walking with the elephants via the elephant trail enter the western gopura and continue on to the cen- that slowly winds up the peak. tral temple. This leads you upstairs through darkened Angkor mob scenes passages to the central sanctuary where again the Bakheng is an extremely popular spot for visitors views are breathtaking -- particularly from any of the because of the terrific sunsets that can be admired Dawn: Angkor Wat corners. At the southern side of the central tower a from here and it's nothing short of a mob scene. Early morning: Bayon railing and some extra steps have been installed to Nevertheless, the hordes climb Bakheng for a reason allow for the final climb up into the apex. The stairs are and it is worth trying it at least one occasion. Try early Late morning: Banteay Srei very steep and more than one person has tumbled morning for a very different experience. Late afternoon: Angkor Wat down in a pile of broken bones or even death. Please Sunset: Bakheng, Angkor Wat exercise care -- the view is indeed very fine, but those Angkor Thom with a fear of heights should consider carefully before Jayavarman VII's state capital 7/10 climbing. The western stairs are not as steep, but lack One of the largest of the ancient Khmer cities, Angkor a handrail. Thom (which means Great City) was the state capital of Jayavarman VII, who ruled the from Once at the apex the views over the surrounds are around 1181 to 1220, with the site remaining in use for spectacular. hundreds of years after his death. Work commenced on the city more or less as a rebuilding project after Bakheng the previous state capital was sacked by marauding Hilltop mob-scene 6/10 Chams. The Bakheng temple sits atop the highest point in the area midway between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. The walled in enclosure is thought to have once sup- From the 60-metre high summit enjoy spectacular views ported a population of up to one million people al- over Angkor Wat to the east and out to the sunset in though the vast majority lived outside the city's walls the west. -- towards the East and West Barays and towards the Siem Reap River. As their houses would have been As the state temple of the first city of Angkor, wood, nothing remains and the enclosure itself has , Bakheng sat at the centre of an been largely taken back by the forest. earthen-walled enclosure that was even larger than that of nearby Angkor Thom -- measuring some four The scale of Angkor Thom is daunting. It measures km along each of its four walls. The ruler of the time, 3km in length on each of its four eight metre high walls , son of , moved the capi- -- all of which was once surrounded by a moat of up to tal here from Roulos, some 13km to the southeast of 100 metres in width. While today much of the moat Siem Reap. Work began on the Bakheng at the end of has been given over to rice paddie cultivation, it would the ninth century and was finished some time after the be a safe assumption that the moat was once inhab- year 907 -- only to be abandoned a mere 21 years ited by something with a snappier bite than carp. later in 928. There are five 20 metre tall gates, one on each of the south, west and north walls, with the eastern wall The summit was originally crowned with a multilevel having two gates. The northernmost of the two east- pyramid which was partly hewn out of the mountain- ern gates leads from the Royal Palace to the Eastern top, partly built of stone. Atop the base sit five small Baray. The centrepiece of Angkor Thom is the mag- stone towers which were partly pulled apart in the 16th nificent Bayon. century in an attempt to build a large stone seated Buddha on the site. Unfortunately the Buddha was Most enter Angkor Thom via the southern gate as it's never completed. the closest gate to the main entrance to Angkor Wat. As with all five bridges, the bridge is flanked by two The summit can be reached either by climbing the sets of statues -- recreating a scene taken from the very rough eastern staircase that runs to the summit, legend of the Churning of the Sea of Milk -- to your left

10 www.travelfish.org are gods, to the right demons, all dragging on massive wangle something with the Apsara staff -- evening Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient (EFEO). Then the naga balustrades. Some of the stuates are replicas under a full moon, when the ghostlike appearance of 70's, the war and the Khmer Rouge came and for more while others have been transported from the lesser the Bayon is both atmospheric and breathtaking. than two decades work ground to a halt. During this used bridges. The bridge backs onto a splendid exam- hiatus, virtually all the supporting paperwork save ple of the four-faced Bayon style gateway, which, with Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace some photos of the temple were lost, leaving the its imposing ten metres backing onto a leafy jungle restorers in the unenviable situation of trying to as- Picnic by a Royal pond 7/10 backdrop gives visitors a fine idea of the site's maj- semble one the world's largest jigsaw puzzle. Phimeanakas sits just about at the centre of what was esty and also makes for an excellent photo. once the Royal Palace. The earliest remains here date Erected around 1060 during the reign of King back to the 10th century and were built during the The popularity of the southern gate also has a down Udayadityavarman II, the Baphuon was situated just reign of King Yasovarman I, while the palace itself is side -- the traffic. In peak season waits of up to 20-30 to the south of the Royal enclosure and was easily the believed to have been built in the 11th century under minutes are not unheard of as buses, minibuses, cars, largest temple of its time. The Chinese diplomat Zhou the guidance of King . motorbikes, remorque motos and elephants (yes el- Daguan, who visited Angkor in the 13th century, wrote ephants) jostle for passage through the narrow gate- "...rises the Tower of Bronze, higher even than the While the palace remained in use till the mid 1500s yet way. During the planning the Khmer architects had Golden Tower (Bayon): a truly astonishing spectacle". today little remains but the foundation work and a allowed for the height of an elephant with a howdah couple of ponds. Despite its largely ruined state, the and parasols but unfortunately not for the width of two While a portion of the site was re-opened to visitors in royal enclosure remains nevertheless a fascinating 80-seat tour buses passing side by side. 2006, much of the site remains off-limits and signficantly area to walk through as the setting is lush and over- less magnificent than when Zhou Daguan was in town. grown yet very accessible. While the southern gate is by far the most popular, if It will not be until at least 2008 that the entire site will time allows it is worth trying some of the other gates be reopened to the public. The three-level and over 30 metre high Phimeanakas for a bit of peace and quiet and also to garner a (meaning Flying Palace in ) is close to the glimpse of the site in its more natural, semi-ruined centre of the complex, and from its apex there are Terrace of Elephants state. One interesting option is to walk along the top good views over the surrounds. Believed to have once Lots and lots and lots of elephants 6/10 of the wall from the southern gate around to the west- been covered in gold, all four stairways are guarded Running for a full 300 metres from the Baphuon to the ern gate, having your transport picking you up there. by stone lions and the corners bear elephants. Terrace of the Leper King, the Terrace of Elephants This route is great for bird watching and nature lovers. looks out over the Royal Square of Angkor Thom and Please note that while the steep staircases can be as the name suggests, is carved with lots and lots Within its walls, Angkor Thom contains a number of climbed to enjoy a fine view, after rain the climb can and lots of elephants. Try to visit here in early morning temples including the Bayon, the Baphuon, be treacherous -- the flight of stairs at the rear of the when the elephants catch the morning light nicely. Phimeanakas and the Elephant Terrace along with a temple is your best bet, but be very careful with your swag of minor sites. Some of these predate the footing. Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and added to constuction of Angkor by Jayavarman VIII, the Elephant Terrace makes for Sitting to the north of Phimeanakas is Srah Srei (Wom- an interesting stroll, though unfortunately in the wet The Bayon en's Bath) -- a large pond that's worth more than a season the ground near the terrace if often flooded A basket of bottles 9/10 cursory glance. Look for the detailed sea life carved and/or sodden. Certainly one of the most written-about and photo- into the walls of sandstone that form the edge of the graphed of the monuments at Angkor, the Bayon, pond. Creatures include crabs, giant lizards and fish The three metre high terrace includes five staircases state temple of Jayavarman VII and some of his suc- along with the mandatory crocodiles. You're not per- -- one at the north and south end and three running cessors, is one of the most unusual religious monu- mitted to swim in the pond, though the rule doesn't along its length, with the central set of stairs being the ments in the world. appear to extend to the local kids who don't mind a largest. In between the staircases, the wall is deco- splash. Pack a picnic lunch for a midday break on the rated with elephants and their mahouts in hunting When it was first visited by explorers the site was bank of a royal pond. scenes along with a generous dose of and totally overgrown and slowly but steadily it was being lion-like creatures. destroyed by the jungle. Under the guidance of the The Royal enclosure has five main gates, two on the first Angkor Conservator, Jean Commaille, the site north and south walls and one main gate on the east. The Elephant Terrace once supported the royal recep- was cleared between 1911 and 1913. At the time he If you take the westernmost of the two gates on the tion area and the many garudas and lion-like figures lamented that "Every month, perhaps every day, some northern wall you can follow the trails for a back way were intended to give the impression the royal entou- stones would fall. The complete ruin of the temple was to Preah Palilay. Likewise the western most southern rage, shaded by their parasols and gold-topped pavil- only a matter of time, and it was necessary to con- gate is a short-cut to the Baphuon. ions, were being held aloft in the heavens. sider how to halt it without further delay." While the restoration indeed saved the monument, some chose Baphuon Terrace of the Leper King to not spare those behind it, labelling the ruins a The world's biggest jigsaw puzzle 5/10 The legendary leper 7/10 "basket of bottles" once the clearing was complete. If it remained standing, Baphuon would be, by far, the Believed to date to the 13th century, the six metre Commaille was murdered by armed robbers in 1916 tallest of the monuments at Angkor. Once a temple high Terrace of the Leper King is so named for the and was buried to the southwest of the monument. mountain, Baphuon was little more than a rubble moun- unusual statue of Yama, the God of the Underworld, tain when restoration work at Angkor first begun. which sits atop the terrace. Stripped of the overgrowth, the Bayon was revealed as a three-tiered pyramid temple, with the central tower Work commenced on the Baphuon in the 1960's when Stark naked, Yama sits with one knee raised, survey- stretching to 45m in height. This central tower is topped the monument's 300,000 stones were dismantled and ing the Royal Square. Because it is tainted by discol- with the largest examples of the all-facing all-seeing each one's unique position dutifully recorded by the oration and lichen, the statue was believed to be one enigmatic faces that litter the temple throughout. Origi- of a leper, and the name stuck. The statue is a rep- nally the Bayon was comprised of 54 towers, each of lica, with the original now held in the National Museum which supported four faces -- one looking to each of in Phnom Penh. the north, south, east and west. The Leper King Terrace is decorated with seven levels There's a number of theories behind the meaning of (the top level is almost all gone) of bas-relief carvings. the faces. George Coedes, an archeologist who worked Three of the four walls (east, north and south) are on Angkor in the 1930's surmised that the sculptures carved with very deep bas-reliefs. The carvings on represented King Jayavarman VII as a God-King. It the north wall are among the best -- keep an eye out has also been suggested that the 54 towers repre- for the sword swallower. sented the 54 provinces of the realm, with the King's face looking down upon the entire country. The terrace also has a hidden rear corridor which can be entered from either the southwest or northwest and While the monument feels quite cramped, the layout is which zigzags behind the main terrace. Along this actually pretty simple and you can admire the majority secret passage the lower level of bas-reliefs repre- of the many beautiful bas-reliefs by exploring the monu- sent the underworld -- keep an eye out for the particu- ment in a circular fashion. The carvings encircle the larly vivid expressions on some of the faces. Likewise entire monument and if you really want to get a good watch out for the persistent children who will hassle understanding of the bas-reliefs, a guide is a fine you no end as they're out of sight of the Apsara staff. investment. Be sure to allow sufficient time to wander through -- some of the finest are on the outer wall of the southeast corner, but other areas, particularly the Tep Pranam rear are very interesting and far less busy as the tour A minor attraction 4/10 groups tend not to last this far. Thought to date back to the 15th or 16th century, this large seated Buddha makes use of re-used stone One of the additional charms here is that different blocks in its body. It sits just to the north of the Leper times of day do different favours for the temple and King Terrace and is worth a quick glance for its pleas- you can come here at almost anytime of the day and ant tree-filled setting. There's an active Buddhist tem- find an interesting quarter worth exploring, early morn- ple at this site. ing though is particularly popular, as is -- if you can

11 Siem Reap travel guide

Preah Palilay A favourite among both professional and amateur pho- Srah Srang tographers, remember the monuments are well shaded Very little visited 6/10 Royal baths -- no elephants allowed 7/10 when taking pics and although your guide may en- Decorated with many scenes from Buddha's life and Translated as Royal Baths, according to one source, courage you to do so, please don't climb on the monu- set amongst a stand of tall shade trees, Preah Palilay all creatures except elephants were allowed to bathe ment. is one of the more under-rated sites within Angkor in Srah Srang, but today it is most popular as a re- Thom. freshing dip for some of the local children. Ta Phrom, after Angkor Wat and Bayon, is probably the most popular monument, and while best visited in The site is believed to take its name from Parilyyaka Srah Srang is a medium sized baray running out to the the early morning or afternoon, anytime is an interest- -- a forest that features in the stories of Buddha. This east of Banteay Kdei towards Pre Rup. Some 700 ing time. Take it slowly, finding spots to sit and take in theory is supported by the range of Buddhist carvings metres long and 300 metres wide, the baray was con- the atmosphere as the crowds ebb and flow. Ta Phrom at the site including one of Buddha calming an en- structed during the reign of King Jayavarman VII and is large, so unlike Bayon it is more able to absorb raged elephant and another which depicts the offering has an almost sublime beauty to it -- Angkor expert large groups of people and it is rare that somewhere is of forest animals like monkeys, elephants and birds. compared its majestic calm to that of crowded for more than five minutes -- take your time Piece d'eau des Suisses at Versailles, yet many to- and slowly absorb this splendid site. Thought to date back to the reign of Jayavarman VII, day give it but a passing glance. Preah Palilay remains a bit of a mystery. With its A visit here is best combined with a trip to Srah Srang wealth of Buddhist iconography, it's considered highly The western end of the Srah Srang remains in the best and Bantaey Kdei -- starting at Srah Srang, then walk- unusual that the site survived the period that followed condition, lined by a long stone wall with a terrace and ing through Bantaey Kdei then entering Ta Phrom the death of Jayavarman VII. Instigated by his Hindu staircase at its centre. The stairs are flanked by nagas through its eastern gate. successor, Jayavarman VIII, a programme of sanc- and fearsome lions as they run down to the water's tioned vandalism saw the destruction of many Bud- edge. Dawn here is breathtaking and late afternoon is dhist icons throughout Angkor, yet Preah Palilay re- Banteay Kdei also particularly pleasant. Should you have ample mained largely untouched. An under rated gem 8/10 time, you can walk all the way around its edge and Lying to the west of the royal baths at Srah Srang and there's also a bunch of food and drink stalls here As a site, surrounded by tall trees and nearly always to the southeast of Ta Phrom, Banteay Kdei is a should you be in need of refreshment. devoid of other visitors, this is a pleasant spot to fusion of Angkor and Bayon styles. In its semi-ruined wander through either before or after Tep Pranam, state, set on spacious, well forested grounds, this Pre Rup which sits just a short walk away to the south. temple remains one of the most under rated of Angkor's Top sunset spot 8/10 temples. As far fewer visitors make it here compared Completed in 961 during the reign of King to nearby Ta Phrom, take advantage of the low crowds Ta Keo Rajendravarman, Pre Rup was constructed as his state by spending more time here taking in the feel of the A massive temple mountain 7/10 temple following the establishment of a new capital on place. This massive temple mountain is almost 50 metres tall the southern bank of the eastern baray -- Pre Rup sat and was the first of the Khmer monuments to be built at the centre of this new capital. Although the site was extensively cleared between entirely of sandstone. One of the most striking facets 1920 and 1922, stands of tall trees remain, some still of Ta Keo is its almost nude, entirely undecorated Pre Rup means 'turn the body' a reference to the attached to portions of the building. A large site -- the state. Although construction commenced during the funereal rite where a corpse is turned on the charcoal. outer wall measures 500 metres by 700 metres, Banteay reign of Jayavarman V (ruled from 968 to 1001), work This name supported opinions (not universally held) Kdei is believed to have been constructed in the late ceased just after the carving begun. that the Pre Rup was used for funerals -- an opinion 12th to early 13th century, during the reign of King further backed up by the discovery of a small stone Jayavarman VII, atop a pre-existing site that dated Despite its no frills state, the temple is well worth cistern to the east of the entrance that is though to back to the 10th century. visiting, particularly in the early morning and late af- have had a funeral use. ternoon when the light brings out the warm hues in the Banteay Kdei was a Buddhist monument and until the sandstone. The upper levels of the pyramid are so Pre Rup is a temple-mountain with the central pyramid commencement of clearing in the early 1920s, a pa- narrow that it's almost impossible to walk around them comprising three levels atop a larger two level base. goda remained active at the site. Previously, during -- in contrast, the top level is refreshingly spacious Constructed mainly of , brick and sandstone, the reign of Jayavarman VIII the site was expanded, and decorated with four corner towers and a larger the early morning and warming afternoon light can and many of the Buddhist statues were vandalised or central tower. The views over the surrounding forest, play beautifully on the temple's hues and tones. destroyed. in all directions, are terrific. The main attraction for the casual visitor are the sun- As with the other tree-sheltered sites an early morning The road passes by the south and western walls of Ta set views -- Pre Rup makes an ideal alternative to or late afternoon visit reaps slight dividends due to Keo and while the southern stairs are the most popu- some of the more popular sunset viewpoints. From the the shade, so this is a good one to visit mid-morning lar route, all the stairs here are very steep, so we'd summit you can see Angkor Wat, and if you're lucky or mid-afternoon. An ideal way to visit is to begin at suggest entering at the south, then taking a quick enough to have the site to yourself, the serenity here, Srah Srang, walk through Banteay Kdei from east to right and climbing Ta Keo from the west -- if nothing with the jungle rambling off to Angkor Wat, is excel- west, then turn north and follow the wall up to Ta else it is a little less crowded. lent. Phrom, entering at the eastern gate, walking through there and having your transport pick you up at the Ta Nei western gate of Ta Phrom. Banteay Samre An excuse for a bush-walk 5/10 The citadel of the Samre 6/10 This small, very rarely visited site is as much an Banteay Samre translates as citadel of the Samre. excuse for a walk through the woods as an interesting The Samre were a group of people who populated the site its own right. Built in the late 12th century during Kulen hills, and legend has it, ruled from Banteay the reign of Jayavarman VII, Ta Nei is fairly small and Samre. was built with a mix of laterite and sandstone. The main point of interest are the often lichen-covered The story goes that a poor Samre farmer by the name pediments and lintels, some of which remain in rea- of Pou had a particular talent for growing sweet cu- sonable condition. cumbers. When Pou presented some of the cucum- bers to the then King, the King was so taken with them Ta Phrom he secured the exclusive rights and commanded Pou to kill anybody who tried to enter his cucumber fields A crowd-pleasing favourite 9/10 without permission. When cucumber production dropped For many the highlight of a visit to Angkor, the deci- off during the wet season, the King became impatient sion by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient to leave and snuck into the fields himself to try and source a Ta Phrom in its original state was inspired as although few sweet cucumbers -- unfortunately for the King, on places the trees are slowly destroying the monu- the farmer followed his instructions and speared the ment, in others they're holding it together. Over-run King to death with a lance. When he realised his by silk-cotton trees and strangler vines, Ta Phrom is mistake he buried the King in the middle of the field about as atmospheric as Angkor gets, and although and hoped nobody would notice. there is a fairly well travelled pathway through the monument, there are no shortage of nooks and cran- Of course a missing King got tongues wagging and nies, alleys and backways to explore. when a new King couldn't be decided on, the dignitar- ies went for divine inspiration and so brought in a Built by Jayavarman VII for his mother, and conse- divine elephant who would select the new King. The crated in 1186, Ta Phrom was the centrepiece of a elephant walked straight to the farmer's shack where city of over 10,000 people and was also an active it then saluted him, lowered its trunk between its feet, Buddhist monastery. While there are some interesting knelt and then, encircled him with its trunk and placed lintels and pediments distributed throughout the tem- him gently on its back. ple, for the casual visitor here, the main attraction are the trees -- in some places they've displaced the walls Once King, Pou had the old King dug up and per- completely, leaving their roots to form the archways formed proper funeral rites at Pre Rup (guides more and rooves that were once made of stone. often tell this story at Pre Rup than at Banteay Samre).

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His subjects were a bit put out being ruled by a Samre, smaller buildings in variable states of repair and the majority of visitors who arrive at Siem Reap via ferry and despite all his efforts he couldn't get the respect view from the northeast corner takes in the whole whistle into Siem Reap oblivious to the site. he deserved, so in the end, Pou moved out to Banteay complex pretty well. When you climb each of the five Samre and set up his court there. levels, make the time to walk all the way around be- sits within a 50 metre square enclosure, fore continuing up to the next level. Note the little upon which are three ruined sandstone towers on a Built by Suryavarman II and continued by Yasovarman elephants on each corner -- even the harness details north-south axis. Running from north to south the II, Banteay Samre is belived to have been completed are still visible on some. On the fourth level, be sure towers are dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma. early in the 12th century. An extensive renovation to walk around to the south side where a fine fragment from 1936 to 1944 was led by archeologist Maurice of bas-relief remains -- illustrating fighting a Partly due to age, partly due to the use of sandstone Glaize and the results are impressive. With its tall, losing battle. and partly due to the prevailing strong winds that blow windowless, laterite walls, the temple is rather citadel- off the Tonle Sap, the decorative works throughout like (banteay means citadel), and while the central When you reach the top level, turn and look back to this site are in very poor condition. Nevertheless, the tower may remind you of Angkor Wat, visitors who the east for a tremendous view that illustrates the site is not a complete loss, as the views -- all 360 have seen the Khmer sites in Thailand will also notice plan of the complex very well. To the west side we're degrees of them, taking in from the Tonle Sap to the the similarity to the temples at Phanom Rung and told you can see Angkor Wat, but we couldn't -- per- Western Baray -- are absolutely magnificent. Phimai. haps with binoculars it's possible. Phrom Krom is around 12km southwest of Siem Reap It is thought that the temple sat at the centre of a Exit the temple to the west, going straight down and and can be accessed by either a long, steamy and sizeable city as the eastern causeway (which was you'll stumble upon the remains of (Shiva's sweaty climb up the stairs, or by road in a car or by once flanked by a naga bridge) runs for 200m and it's favourite bull) -- there is actually one at the base of motorbike -- your choice. easy to imagine the city surrounding it. Aside from the each cardinal points of Bakong, but the one at the imposing outer wall, another point worth mention are west is the most bull-like, even if it still looks more like Phnom Bok the unusually deeply carved lintels and pediments -- a cow. Shaded by frangapani, terrific views 6/10 while not as spectacular as Banteay Srei, they are Around 25km from Siem Reap nevertheless very attractive. Set a little over a kilometre off the main Siem Reap to Along with Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng, Phnom Phnom Penh road at the 13km mark, Bakong is par- Bok is the third of King Yasovarman I's hilltop efforts. Best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, ticularly splendid at dawn, and makes a fine contrast Quite isolated, the highlight of a visit here are the many choose to combine a visit here with the trek out to the mob scenes you're likely to come across at views and, when in flower, the beautiful frangapani to Banteay Srei, in which case you are best to visit Angkor Wat and some of the other more popular monu- trees that appear to almost explode out of the tops of Banteay Samre before Banteay Srei to avoid disap- ments. two of the towers. pointment. Once used as a strategic military post, Phnom Bok Preah Khan A minor stop 5/10 sits at the summit of the highest hill near to Angkor. At Rambling and exquisite 9/10 Roulos Group well over 200 metres high, this is considerably higher Completed in 1191, the fascinating site of Preah Khan Built in 880, Preah Ko was the first temple Indravarman than Phnom Krom (140 metres) and Phnom Bakheng was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and dedi- I built in and what remains of it are six (a mere 60 metres). While the views here once had cated to his father (he dedicated nearby Ta Phrom to small brick towers sitting on a sandstone base along considerable military value, today they're far more his mother). Inscriptions also make reference to a with a handful of outlying building in various states of valuable to the trickle of visitors that make it out here. lake of blood which could refer to a battle in the area ruins. during the expelling of the Chams from Angkor. (The Some 25km from Siem Reap, Phnom Bok is reached Cham king was killed where Preah Khan now stands). The sides of the doors of all three front brick temples by a road that splits off from the main drag to Banteay Thought to have been a religious university, when contain long inscriptions, but the big find here was the Srei. It's around another eight km from the main road. completed Preah Khan was home to in excess of temple foundation steele which was found in the gopura 1,000 teachers and had its own baray which ran out to of the first enclosure. While the steele has been re- Banteay Srei the east of the site, but which has since run dry. moved from the site, part of the inscription is the Stunning carvings 9/10 eulogy of King Indravarman I and reads according to 32km from Siem Reap While largely cleared of overgrowth, Preah Kham can G. Coedes in Maurice Glaize's Angkor: Undoubtedly Angkor's most beautiful temple, the soft be one of the most rewarding temples to visit -- par- pink sandstone and exceptional carvings of Banteay ticularly in late afternoon or early morning when chances “The right arm of the prince is long, strong and fearsome in battle Srei never fail to delight the visitor. are you will have the entire place to yourself. as his flashing sword falls on his enemies, defeating kings in every direction. Invincible, he can be appeased by two enemies only - those who have their backs turned, and those who, valuing Consecrated in 967, during the reign of King Sitting among the ruins here, watching the sun set life, put themselves under his protection.” Rajendravarman, Banteay Srei was never a royal tem- through the trees surrounded by bird filled skies can ple. It is thought to have been built by an advisor to be truly magical (until the security guards chuck you The main point of interest here are the lime mortar the King and it is believed that this lack of a Royal go- out, anyway). The inner sanctuary here, like many of lintels and other decorative work that was affixed to ahead is one of the reasons why this temple is one of Jayavarman VII's creations, is a hodgepodge maze of the brick towers. This is a site of ongoing reconstruc- the smallest at Angkor. ponds and shrines, and while there is a straightfor- tion, so you cannot enter the towers. ward path that you can take walking due east or west, What Banteay may lack in size it more than makes up there is no shortage of minor trails and pathways that for in beauty. The name translates as Citadel of Women you can wander through. Only if you're in the area 3/10 and some have suggested the temple was built by a woman as no man could have created something so Some of the apsaras here remain in excellent condi- Roulos Group beautiful and with so fine a hand. The carvings cover tion as do a couple of the lintels. The central stupa You wouldn't know it when you're standing there, but an incredible amount of the temple's surface and the that sits in the central sanctuary is paticularly photo- Lolei actually sits atop an island in the middle of what reliefs are often particularly deep, giving them a three genic. The vast majority of people enter Preah Khan was once a large reservoir measuring 3,800 metres by dimensional appearance. from the west, but it is easily done from the east as 800 metres. well. Whichever way you do it, it is a good idea to ask As with many Khmer temples, the main sections of your moto to wait for you at the other side to save Today the reservoir has been drained and is used for Banteay Srei were built of laterite, but in an unusual your double-tracking to walk back. rice cultivation but the island still hosts Lolei and an active wat. departure instead of the carving being done into a plaster coating that was normally layered onto the Bakong While credited to King Yasovarman I, the bulk of the stone, the temple was faced with pink sandstone and A great dawn alternative 8/10 basework was done by his father King Indravarman I the carvings done into that. The results are breathtak- Roulos Group who built the dyke and placed the island, leaving his ing. Throughout the monument there's lintels, door Before its reconstruction, little remained of Bakong son to build the actual temple, which was completed in jambs and window columns all layered with amazingly aside from a pile of rubble atop a small hill. Initial 893 -- Sunday July 8th to be exact. well executed and preserved carvings. clearing work didn't commence until 1936 and the eventual reconstruction under the direction of Maurice Lolei comprises four brick towers, none of which are in When the French came across the site in 1914 it was Glaize (the conservator of Angkor from 1937 to 1945) outstanding condition, varying from collapsed to the totally covered by forest and partly buried by the took around seven years to complete. The results of semi-restored. The highlight of Lolei are its lintels and earth. Nevertheless it didn't take them long to realise this painstaking reconstruction are impressive. If you door jambs which remain in good condition, but more they'd stumbled upon an outstanding find. So out- are planning more than just a day or two exploring the interesting perhaps is the site's location within an standing in fact that one French author, Andre Lalraux, monuments, be sure to make time for Bakong. active wat. decided to take a chunk of the temple home with him. He cut out over a tonne of the finest apsaras and Dating back to 881 during the reign of King Indravarman other carvings and carted them back to Phnom Penh I, Bakong was the state temple of Hariharalaya. The Phnom Krom where he planned to surreptitiously freight his plunder layout of the site closely follows the principles of Spectacular views 7/10 back to France. Fortunately he was arrested and was modelling with the moat surrounding the 12km from Siem Reap sentenced to a couple of years prison (a term he inner sanctum of five levels. From the apex of the Set atop the small mountain near the ferry dock, and never served) and the carvings were saved. Lalraux site, the model plan is quite obvious. overlooking the Tonle Sap sits Phnom Krom, a 9th to was later appointed Minister of Culture under Charles 10th century temple built by King Yasovarman I. As de Gaulle! The grounds within the moat include a collection of you can't see the temple from ground level, the vast Banteay Srei is one of the most popular temples and, 13 Siem Reap travel guide particularly in the morning, it is over-run with tour bus man built the road up to the summit and charges Beng Mealea upon tour bus. While early morning is a great time to US$20 per foreigner to use his private road. There's Spectacular jungle ruins 9/10 visit as the sun shining direct on the temple really nothing that can be done about it as, afterall, he did 80km from Siem Reap brings out all its beauty, we'd suggest trying mid to build the road, but it is a very disappointing state of One of our favourite sites, Beng Mealea sits on the late afternoon (though not too late) to try to dodge the affairs and results in many visitors boycotting the ancient royal road from Angkor Wat to Preah Khan (in worst of the hordes. site. province) and was built around the same time as Angkor Wat during the reign of King The temple is some 32km from Siem Reap and your Kbal Spean Suryavarman II. transport will expect a surcharge to cart you out here River of a thousand linga 6/10 -- be sure to agree on a price beforehand. 50km northeast of Siem Reap With a similar totally overgrown feel as with Ta Phrom, Along with Phnom Kulen, Kbal Spean is regarded as a the atmosphere at Beng Mealea (which means Lotus Phnom Kulen particularly auspicious location as it is from this hill Pond) is like no other -- don't be surprised to see Terrific views, shame about the admission fee 6/10 that the Kbal Spean river flows down to join the larger Tomb Raider or Indiana Jones on site. Badly ruined in 50km from Siem Reap Siem reap river which eventually empties out into Tonle places, an elevated wooden walkway has been built Located some 50km from Siem Reap the daunting Sap. Before it leaves the hill though, the water is throughout the site which makes it more accessible Phnom Kulen sandstone plateau is considered by blessed by flowing over some 100 metres of sacred and also allows for some rather unusual elevated views Khmers as one of the most sacred spots in their entire linga and that have been carved into its you wouldn't otherwise be able to enjoy. country. It was on this plateau that Jayavarman II bedrock riverbed. Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma are all in was consecrated as the first God-King and it was from attendance, and the Sanskrit name, Sahasralinga, or Sadly looters did a fair degree of damage here -- we Phnom Kulen that he declared Cambodia to be an river of a thousand lingas indicates the quantity of were told the central tower was dynamited in order to independent state. linga (though there's not really 1,000). get at certain pieces for private collectors. Many pieces lay atop one another in chaotic piles of moss and Aside from providing a fantastic viewpoint, the pla- Best at the tail-end of the wet season (October to lichen covered stone -- but upon closer inspection teau is also home to Cambodia's largest reclining Bud- December), Kbal Spean is well worth a visit -- both for you'll see many a decorative piece amongst the bare dha, a pretty waterfall, a handful of Cham and Khmer the intricate carvings and the very pleasing, verdant building blocks. temples, and, particularly well hidden away, a bunch jungle setting. There's also a medium-sized waterfall of mythical stone guardians including a very impres- nearby and a couple of small swimming holes if you This area was heavily mined -- according to our guide sive life-size stone elephant -- you will need a guide feel you're in need of a bit of blessing yourself. the site had been mined by forces, Khmer and a motorbike to find the guardians. Rouge and the Vietnamese -- considerably complicat- Located around 50km northeast of Siem Reap, the ing the demining work. While the demining has been The plateau is well wooded and due to its almost 500 site is reached via a 1.5 km trail that winds up from the completed, this still isn't an area to go bush-bashing metres in height the temperature is characterised by carpark to the riverbed. Your moto will expect extra in. cool evenings and crisp mornings. For a long time well payment to bring you here -- be sure to agree on a off the beaten-track, some tour companies now run price beforehand. Beng Mealea is not covered by the Angkor Pass and trekking and camping trips to Phnom Kulen. there's an admission fee of US$20 to enter, though unlike Phnom Kulen it's probably worth it. Sounds great, but there's a catch. A Khmer business-

Spas, shopping and seers in Siem Reap Take your pick: spas, shopping and seers. Some super alternatives are springing up in Cambodia’s Siem Me? The pack of playing cards she dealt in all Reap so you don’t have to feel too guilty for bowing out of rambling through Angkor Wat’s endless ruins sorts of baffling combinations showed that my when you’ve had your fill. work colleagues were jealous of me at the mo- ment and would be talking about me behind my As wondrous as Angkor’s splendour is, different people have varying capacities for appreciation and after back. If I could get through the next month, I a few hours of intense concentration in the tropical blazing sun, I say it’s time for some serious relaxation. might be alright. If your short-term outlook is as And with more and more spas flinging open their doors to be welcomed by the tiring masses, it seems I’m grim as mine was, she may offer to take you to a not alone. temple to be blessed by monks. I risked it.

The swishest standalone spa for now - probably in the country - has to be the lush oasis of Visaya, set Don’t be surprised if the fortune teller predicts in the Foreign Correspondents Club complex by the river. It’s priced to match, although by international bad finances on your horizon: shopping is an- standards, for the quality it’s still a steal. other tempting alternative in Siem Reap, with boutiques boasting more and more interesting Whatever treatment you choose, make sure you arrive for your appointment an hour or so early so you Cambodian items by the month. Check out the can have a swim and a steam first. I slunk in a little late through their glorious amber-bead curtain - from array of shops around the Old Market area, where Thailand, unfortunately -to slip into a comfy robe and be escorted out past the gurgling FCC pool, possibly you can snap up lovely silks, ’s famed Siem Reap’s coolest spot, and into the calming, hushed private treatment room. pepper, massage oils infused with essential oils and aromatic coffee from Cambodia’s highlands. My soothing aromatic facial set me back 40 US dollars, lasted an hour, used Australia’s Jurlique products and was truly world class. From the thick towels draped over me to the sumptuous decor and the A long-time favourite is Artisans D’Angkor. Visit therapist’s skill, this was the sort of indulgence one seeks after days on Angkor’s Grand Circuit. their workshop first, where you can see artists at work carving, sculpting, sketching and weaving Also on offer are four types of massage, a body scrub or wrap, baths and various packages. The latter their gorgeous masterpieces. Prices here are high, represents the best value, so drop by beforehand to work out what you’d like and set up an appointment. but the quality is exceptional. This is the spot to pick up a souvenir of your Cambodian trip that Shinta Mani’s Sanctuary spa is another splash-out option, set in the hotel of the same name. It’s not quite will last a lifetime. the five-star lavishness of Visaya, but prices are lower and the 90-minute aromatherapy massage (42 dollars) I succumbed to was excellent.

Sanctuary offers a large range of massages, scrubs, facials, baths and hand and foot treatments, but their half-day and full-day packages are again far better value - excellent justification for taking a day off sightseeing.

Their treatment rooms come with outdoor showers and are set off the hotel’s small and stylish pool, which you can also have a dip in beforehand.

A budget but chic spa alternative is Frangipani, located on the narrow arthouse alley running behind the ever-popular bar street. They’ve been open for several years and also use Jurlique products, but their treatments are far more affordable. Their 15-dollar, hour-long aromatherapy massage in their open-air treatment room was great value.

Nearby, the homespun Opanissai offers treatments along with an array of natural health and beauty products. Their four-dollar pedicure was just the ticket for feet in need of some TLC. But their secret weapon in the burgeoning spa sector is their fortune teller, who for eight dollars (with translator) will see what the cards have in store for you.

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