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Contents

List of Maps viii

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Norway 3 1 The Best Travel Experiences ...... 3 10 The Most Unforgettable 2 The Best Scenic Towns & Villages . . . .4 Landscapes/Drives ...... 10 3 The Best Festivals & Special Events . . .5 11 The Best Wildlife Viewing ...... 11 4 The Best Active Vacations ...... 6 12 The Best Hotels ...... 11 5 The Best Hikes ...... 7 13 The Most Charming Inns & Resorts . . .12 6 The Best Downhill Skiing ...... 7 14 The Best Restaurants ...... 13 7 The Best Cross- Skiing ...... 8 15 The Best ...... 14 8 The Best Fishing ...... 9 16 The Best Buys ...... 14 9 The Most Scenic Boat Trips ...... 9 17 The Best Websites ...... 15

2 Planning Your Trip to Norway 17 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 17 People to People: Reaching Out . . . .32 2 Visitor Information ...... 18 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 33 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .20 Frommers.com: The Complete 4 Money ...... 21 Travel Resource ...... 34 The ...... 22 10 Staying Connected ...... 34 What Things Cost in Norway ...... 23 11 Getting There ...... 35 5 When to Go ...... 23 12 Package Tours for the Independent Traveler ...... 40 Norway Calendar of Events ...... 25 13 Getting Around ...... 41 Tracing Your Norwegian Roots . . . . .27 14 Accommodations ...... 44 6 Travel Insurance ...... 27 15 Recommended Reading ...... 48 7 Health & Safety ...... 28 Fast Facts: Norway ...... 49 8 COPYRIGHTEDSpecialized Travel Resources ...... 30 MATERIAL

3 The Active Vacation Planner 52 1 Skiing ...... 52 3 Biking, Hiking & Other Summer 2 Fishing ...... 54 Pursuits ...... 55 02_100578 ftoc.qxp 4/25/07 8:08 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS Frommer’s Favorite Offbeat 5 Adventure Sightseeing ...... 59 Adventures ...... 56 6 Learning Vacations ...... 60 4 Canoeing, Sailing & Scuba Diving . . .59

4 Suggested Norway Itineraries 61 1 in 1 Week ...... 61 3 The Route to the 2 Western Country in 1 Week ...... 66 in 1 Week ...... 64 4 Norway for Families in 1 Week . . . . .68

5 Settling into Oslo 71

1 Orientation ...... 71 Family-Friendly Hotels ...... 86 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 73 4 Where to Dine ...... 93 2 Getting Around ...... 75 Dining Secrets of Oslo ...... 98 Fast Facts: Oslo ...... 78 Family-Friendly Restaurants ...... 101 3 Where to Stay ...... 81

6 Exploring Oslo 112 1 The Big Six ...... 112 5 Especially for Kids ...... 130 So, Who Was This , 6 Oslo on Foot: Walking Tours ...... 131 Anyway? ...... 113 Walking Tour 1: Historic Oslo . . . . .131 The Man Behind . . . . .116 Walking Tour 2: In the Footsteps 2 The Best Museums ...... 120 of Ibsen & Munch ...... 134 Frommer’s Favorite Oslo 7 Organized Tours ...... 137 Experiences ...... 122 Summer Evenings on the 3 Parks & Gardens ...... 128 ...... 138 4 Literary Landmarks ...... 128 8 Active Sports ...... 139 A Royal Pair: The Un–Fairy 9 Shopping ...... 141 Tale Romance ...... 129 10 Oslo After Dark ...... 146

7 Side Trips from Oslo 157 1 : Norway’s Oldest 3 Tønsberg: The First Settlement . . . .167 Fortified Town ...... 157 4 ...... 171 Bridge by Leonardo da Vinci ...... 162 5 : Cradle 2 : The Burning City ...... 163 of Independence ...... 173 The Mysterious Death of King 6 : Norway’s Oldest Karl XII ...... 164 Glassworks ...... 174 02_100578 ftoc.qxp 4/25/07 8:08 PM Page v

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8 & the Road 175 1 : Gateway to Lake Mjøsa . . .175 5 Rondane & The Voice of the Century ...... 179 National Parks ...... 200 2 Lillehammer of Olympic Glory . . . . .181 Country ...... 203 3 Vinstra: The Peer Gynt Road ...... 191 6 Røros: Norway’s Great Mining Town ...... 203 Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson: Yes, We Love This Land ...... 192 4 Lom & Jotunheimen National Park ...... 195

9 207 1 : Home of a Great Explorer . . .207 4 & Merdøy Island ...... 217 2 : Where Silver 5 S: The Summer City . . .220 Was King ...... 210 3 : Memories of . . .214

10 227 1 Orientation ...... 227 A Bike Ride to the Fast Facts: Stavanger ...... 229 “Three Swords” ...... 242 2 Where to Stay ...... 229 6 Shopping ...... 242 3 Where to Dine ...... 233 7 Stavanger After Dark ...... 243 4 Outdoor Activities ...... 237 8 Side Trips from Stavanger ...... 244 5 Seeing the Sights ...... 237 Norway’s Most Beautiful Fjord . . .245

11 246 1 Orientation ...... 246 Ole Bull: Romantic Musician The World’s Longest Tunnel ...... 247 & Patriot ...... 276 2 Getting Around ...... 248 Walking Tour: Historic Bergen . . . .277 Fast Facts: Bergen ...... 250 6 Outdoor Activities ...... 280 3 Where to Stay ...... 251 7 Shopping ...... 280 4 Where to Dine ...... 259 8 Bergen After Dark ...... 283 5 Seeing the Sights ...... 264 9 Side Trips from Bergen ...... 286 Grieg: The Chopin of the North . . .274 02_100578 ftoc.qxp 4/25/07 8:08 PM Page vi

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12 The West Coast Fjord Country 288 1 Utne: A Trio of ...... 290 9 : A Winter Wonderland ...... 309 2 Lofthus: Center of the 10 Fjaerland: Artists & Hardangerfjord ...... 291 Mountaineers ...... 313 3 : Holiday on the 11 Loen/Olden/ & the Jostedal Kinso River ...... 293 Glacier ...... 315 4 : Western Gateway to 12 Geirangerfjord: Norway’s Most ...... 295 Majestic Fjord ...... 320 5 : Misty Peaks & Fruity 13 Åndalsnes: Launch Pad for Fjord Farms ...... 298 Trollstigveien ...... 323 6 : A Winter Playground ...... 299 14 Ålesund: The Great Fishing 7 Balestrand: Center for Sognefjord . . .304 ...... 325 8 Flåm: Stopover on ’s Most 15 : City of Roses ...... 331 Scenic Train Ride ...... 307

13 337 1 Orientation ...... 337 Beauty from the Sea—On Ice . . . . .363 Fast Facts: Trondheim ...... 339 5 Activities Indoors & Out ...... 364 2 Where to Stay ...... 340 A Midsummer Night’s Dream: 3 Where to Dine ...... 346 Warm-Weather Ski-Jumping in Trondheim ...... 365 4 Seeing the Sights ...... 351 6 Shopping ...... 366 An Escapist’s Retreat ...... 354 7 Trondheim After Dark ...... 366 The First European to Discover America ...... 356 Burgers, Bangers & a Soccer Fetish ...... 367 Zealots, “Perverts” & the Ax Man ...... 358 8 Side Trips from Trondheim ...... 368 Walking Tour: Trondheim’s Historic Center ...... 359

14 Tromsø 370 1 Orientation ...... 370 5 Outdoor Activities ...... 383 2 Where to Stay ...... 372 6 Shopping ...... 384 3 Where to Dine ...... 374 7 Tromsø After Dark ...... 385 4 Seeing the Sights ...... 378 Aurora Borealis: The Northern Lights ...... 379 02_100578 ftoc.qxp 4/25/07 8:08 PM Page vii

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15 The Route to the North Cape 388 1 : Arctic Circle City ...... 388 5 : City of Northern Lights ...... 421 Coastal Steamer: The Way to Go . . .390 6 : Capital of the Sami . . . . .424 2 Bodø: Gateway to the North ...... 393 7 : World’s 3 : World War II Northernmost Town ...... 427 Battleground ...... 399 8 Honningsvåg & the North Cape . . .430 4 The Islands: The Soul of Norway ...... 403

Appendix A: Norway in Depth 435

1 Norway Today ...... 436 Dateline ...... 439 2 The Natural Environment ...... 438 A Sifter of Viking Secrets ...... 443 Did You Know? ...... 439 4 Food & Drink ...... 444 3 History 101 ...... 439

Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 446 1 Basic Norwegian Vocabulary 2 Restaurant Terms ...... 447 and Phrases ...... 446

Index 450 General Index ...... 450 Restaurant Index ...... 465 Accommodations Index ...... 463 02_100578 ftoc.qxp 4/25/07 8:08 PM Page viii

List of Maps

Norway Regions 19 Stavanger Accommodations & Eastern Norway in 1 Week 63 Dining 231 Western Fjord Country in 1 Week 65 Stavanger Attractions 239 Route to the North Cape in Bergen Accommodations & 1 Week 67 Dining 252 Norway for Families in 1 Week 69 Bergen Attractions 266 Oslo Public Transportation 76 A Walking Tour of Historic Bergen 279 Oslo Accommodations 82 The West Coast Fjord Country 289 Oslo Dining 94 Trondheim Accommodations & Oslo Attractions 114 Dining 342 Walking Tour 1: Historic Oslo 132 Trondheim Attractions 352 Walking Tour 2: In the Footsteps of A Walking Tour of Historic Ibsen & Munch 135 Trondheim 361 Oslo Nightlife 150 Tromsø Accommodations & Side Trips from Oslo 159 Dining 374 Lillehammer & the Peer Gynt Tromsø Attractions 380 Road 177 The Route to the North Cape 389 Lillehammer 183 The Lofoten Islands 405 Southern Norway 209