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Cora Ginsburg Catalogue 2015
CORA GINSBURG LLC TITI HALLE OWNER A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework 2015 by appointment 19 East 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] NEEDLEWORK SWEET BAG OR SACHET English, third quarter of the 17th century For residents of seventeenth-century England, life was pungent. In order to combat the unpleasant odors emanating from open sewers, insufficiently bathed neighbors, and, from time to time, the bodies of plague victims, a variety of perfumed goods such as fans, handkerchiefs, gloves, and “sweet bags” were available for purchase. The tradition of offering embroidered sweet bags containing gifts of small scented objects, herbs, or money began in the mid-sixteenth century. Typically, they are about five inches square with a drawstring closure at the top and two to three covered drops at the bottom. Economical housewives could even create their own perfumed mixtures to put inside. A 1621 recipe “to make sweete bags with little cost” reads: Take the buttons of Roses dryed and watered with Rosewater three or foure times put them Muske powder of cloves Sinamon and a little mace mingle the roses and them together and putt them in little bags of Linnen with Powder. The present object has recently been identified as a rare surviving example of a large-format sweet bag, sometimes referred to as a “sachet.” Lined with blue silk taffeta, the verso of the central canvas section contains two flat slit pockets, opening on the long side, into which sprigs of herbs or sachets filled with perfumed powders could be slipped to scent a wardrobe or chest. -
Mending As Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions
Mending as Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions I want this experience to ft with what you have on hand and what you want to learn! I will link to sources of some supplies I like below, but there is no need to purchase anything unless you want to and think you will use it. You can also check the links to compare supplies to those you may already have. And of course you can get supplies anywhere you like. The most important thing you will need is some fabric scraps or worn-out textles to practce mending on (not your absolute favorite thing to start with). There are two broad categories of fabrics, based on how they are made; woven (like jeans, dress shirts, and sheets) and knited (like sweaters, socks, and T-shirts). We will talk a lot more about these in class. Each type lends itself to somewhat diferent tools and techniques. If you can, I encourage you to fnd a few scraps of each type to practce on, ideally in fabrics that are similar to the items you want to mend. These will also be a good source of material to cut patches from. I will be in touch before our class starts to fnd out about the projects you want to work on. For now, here are some general suggestons of materials and tools you may want to have on hand. In the meantme, feel free to contact me with any questons! [email protected] Threads You may want to use anything from sewing thread to wool yarn in your mending, depending on what you want to fx. -
Hand Needles & Accessories Guide
FREE Easy HAND NEEDLE SELECTION Threading Hand needles vary according to the shape of the EASY THREADING hand needles & eye, the length and point. The larger the needle General purpose needle with a slot in size, the shorter and finer the needle. Select the outer edge of eye for easy threading accessories guide type of needle for the type of project to be sewn, Embroidery then choose the size of needle for the weight of EMBROIDERY fabric and type of thread. Sharp needle with long eye for smocking, heirloom sewing, TYPES OF HAND NEEDLES Ball Point Glovers/ embroidery and crewel Leather BALL POINT GLOVERS/LEATHER Slightly rounded tip for sewing stretch Needle with triangular point for use and knit fabrics with leather, suede, vinyl and fur Beading Milliners BEADING MILLINERS Very fine, long needle with a small, round Long needle with small round eye eye for beadwork, sewing sequins, for gathering, pleating, basting and pearls, etc. Chenille Quilting millinery work Betweens CHENILLE QUILTING BETWEENS Large-eye needle with sharp point for Short needle with round eye for ribbon embroidery, candlewicking Cotton quilting and detailed handwork and crewel work Sharps Darners SHARPS COTTON DARNERS General purpose needle with sharp Long needle with sharp point and long eye point for sewing and applique for mending Tapestry Crewel TAPESTRY CREWEL Large-eyed needle with a blunt point Sharp needle with long eye for hand for cross stitch, needlepoint and for embroidery and crewel work Yarn stitching knitted items Darners DOLL Doll YARN DARNERS Long -
How to Use Access Commodities Filament Silk Gimp
How to Use Access Commodities Filament Silk Gimp This innovative thread was recreated from 17th century examples found on period needlework. The unique structure of silk gimp consists of a filament silk core wrapped with filament silk. The cord like appearance is both sleek and supple to use, providing an interesting surface texture. It is recommended to treat Filament Silk Gimp like real metal thread passing threads, which are not stitched back and forth through a fabric or canvas, but applied on the surface to great effect. Step 1: First knot the end of the silk gimp before unreeling it off the spool. As you un- reel the silk gimp, it may twist back on itself, due to the composition of the thread. Sim- ply stroke it to smooth it out. Step 2: Unreel a small amount of thread about 4 to 6 inches and snap the top of the spool on the remainder. (See illustration #1) Don’t cut it off the spool but leave it on, unrolling a little more as you stitch. This helps controls the thread as you work and minimizes the twisting. Illustration No. 1 Step 3: The thread can be couched with Au Ver á Soie, Soie 100/3 or a single ply of Au Ver à Soie, Soie de Paris. (See list below for list matching colors.) A Crewel #10 needle is recommended. You will find it helpful if the couching thread is waxed for control. Copyright L. Haidar for Access Commodities, 2013. Date: December 2013 Step 4: Make your couching stitches slanted rather than straight because of the twist of the thread. -
Expression2038 - 2048
expression2038 - 2048 Owner’s manual This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: • A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. • Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 5 Watt. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fi re, electric shock, or injury to persons: • Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children or infi rm person. • Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. • Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorised dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. • Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the Sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. • Keep fi ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the Sewing machine needle. • Always use the proper needle plate. -
What Is Sashiko?
What is Sashiko? Sashiko is a form of embroidery that originated in Japan around 200 years ago. It was used to repair and bulk up clothing, blankets, and other textiles for the cold weather as many regions of the country experienced frigid winters. As such, the focus was less on what the work looked like, and more on how quickly it could be made. Today, Sashiko has become a form of decorative embroidery enjoyed by many people around the world. Traditional patterns are still practiced among modern ones. However, the root of Sashiko remains the same: it doesn’t have to be perfect as long as you enjoy doing it. A jacket embroidered all over with Sashiko patterns from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collections. A closeup of a kimono with Sashiko detailing from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collections. Sashiko Project by Aya Kusumoto Instructions for Sashiko on paper Step 1 - Fold along the solid black line in the middle. Step 2 - Take your thread and fold it in half, then thread the folded end through the needle. This is called double-threading. You can single thread your needle instead but you will be able to see the pattern more clearly the thicker the thread is. Tie a double knot at the end. Step 3 - Start wherever you want on your pattern with the printed side facing up. The printed side will become the back with the knots. Pierce your needle through one end of a stitch, then without fully pulling your needle through, push it back up through the other end of the stitch. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identification
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Text copyright © Jeremy Farrell, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name held at The Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham on 21st February 2008. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audiences. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750 -1950 Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 Front cover image: Detail of a triangular shawl of white cotton Pusher lace made by William Vickers of Nottingham, 1870. The Pusher machine cannot put in the outline which has to be put in by hand or by embroidering machine. The outline here was put in by hand by a woman in Youlgreave, Derbyshire. (NCM 1912-13 © Nottingham City Museums) 2 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Contents Page 1. List of illustrations 1 2. Introduction 3 3. The main types of hand and machine lace 5 4. -
Sashiko - How To
Sashiko - How to Basic materials: (1) Fabric : Flat-woven, loose-woven Cotton or cotton/Linen. (2) Waxed carbon paper for transferring pattern (Chacopy© from Clover Co.ltd.,) (3) Soft Tracing Wheel or Tracer Pen (both from Clover Co.Ltd.,) (4) Mid-weight sheet protectors (5) Sashiko needles (6) Thread: Sashiko thread, or Pearl Cotton #8 or #5 Transferring patterns 1). Lay flat the fabric, right side up, and pin the paper pattern on to the fabric. 2). Insert a waxed carbon in between the fabric and the pattern, waxed side down. You may need to take a couple of pins out and place the carbon and re-pin the entire layers. 3). If you would like to protect paper patterns and carbon paper from ripping or damaging by a tracing tool, put a sheet protector on top of paper pattern and pin entire layer. 4). Using a soft edge tracing wheel or Tracer pen, trace the pattern to the fabric. You need to press the wheel down harder to have a clear marking on to the fabric. 5). Carefully remove the pins. The transferred mark will be erased by dabbing with water. The transferred mark will become permanent by applying heat, so do not iron until you are done Sashiko stitching and erase the remaining line with water. How to handle thread One skein of Olympus Sashiko threads is 40 meters long (44 yds). Remove the paper band and open out the skein. Look for the extra loop of thread tied around the skein and cut through all the threads at this point. -
Sashiko Tote
Sashiko Tote You can never have too many bags! Create unique tote featuring Sashiko quilting and accent stitching. This project is quick and easy to make using the Baby Lock Sashiko machine. Skill Level: Beginner Created by: Kelly Laws, Marketing Project Manager Supplies: Baby Lock Sewing Machine Baby Lock Sashiko Twenty 4” cotton print squares in different colors 1 yard fusible fleece 1 1/4 yard coordinating cotton fabric 2 ½ yards ¾” wide gross grain ribbon All-purpose thread to match fabrics 30-Weight thread in white and black Fusible Web (optional) Iron and Ironing board Scissors Pins Ruler Chalk Baby Lock Sewing Project: Sashiko Tote Page 1 of 3 Instructions: 1. Thread the machine with all-purpose thread to match your fabrics. Using a ¼” seam sew five blocks together to form a row. 2. Create 3 more rows of 5 blocks alternating the block colors. 3. Sew two rows together to create the pieced band for the bag front. 4. Repeat to make a pieced band for the other side of the bag. 5. Cut four pieces 18” x 15” from the cotton fabric. 6. Cut two pieces of fusible fleece 18” x 15”. 7. Following the manufactures directions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of two of the 18” x 15” pieces. 8. Sew the two fleece pieces together along one of the 15” sides. 9. Sew the other two 18” x 15” pieces together along one of the 15” sides. This is the tote lining, set this piece aside for later. 10. Open the piece out into one long strip. -
NEEDLE THREADER ASSISTANT Quick and Easy Way to Thread a Needle
NEEDLE THREADER ASSISTANT Quick and easy way to thread a needle F G E H B C Takes the work and frustration out of threading hand needles with its simple one-push action button. A I Diagram Parts List: D A - Eye Size Selector F - V groove J B - Guide Hole G - Thread Cutter C - Window H - Thread Guide Pin D - Alignment I - Magnetic Pickup Indicator J - Storage Compartment E - Lever Step 1 Step 2 Step 1 Position eye size selector (A) to small or large Step 2 Insert needle into guide hole (B) with eye facing window (C) so it touches end. Step 3 Gently push down on lever (E), if alignment indicator (D) shows Step 3 Step 4 & 5 red or feel resistance STOP. This means needle eye is not properly D aligned to allow thread guide pin (H) to pass through, repeat step one/two and test again. Tip: With lever pressed in, thread guide pin should pass through window if alignment is correct. Step 4 & 5 Release the lever and place a length of thread into the V groove. Step 6 G Gently push the lever again to guide the thread through the needle. Step 6 Release the lever and withdraw threaded needle. Gently pull the thread loop to complete process. Tip: Use built-in thread cutter (G) for trimming excess thread Warnings: Take care not to prick finger as needle point is up when set in threader. Ensure that needles are not left in threader when not in use. This is a sharp product, keep away from children. -
BL2102 February 2021
Blackwork Journey Blog, February 2021 Looking forward in 2021 and beyond! February is a difficult month in the UK, as although Christmas is behind us, Spring still seems a long way away. However, for the first time in a year there are some positive things to report. The vaccines are being rolled out and there is hope that we can start to see a way forward and begin to look, albeit tentatively, to the future. Sashiko and quilted Phoenix project This design was my way of saying that there is a way forward out of Covid-19 into a new future, like the mythical bird who rose from the ashes, reborn, stronger and more powerful. In Japan, as earlier in China, the Phoenix was adopted as a symbol of the imperial household, particularly the Empress. This mythical bird represents fire, the sun, justice, obedience and fidelity. The Asian Phoenix is different from the Phoenix found in Egypt and Greece and is a bird of completely different feathers and traditions. The ornamental design of the Dragon (Emperor) and Phoenix (Empress) on the doors of the Hall of Heavenly and Terrestrial Union, Beijing, China A phoenix depicted in a book of legendary creatures by FJ Bertuch (1747–1822) Presidential standard of Greece 1 Blackwork Journey © Blackwork Journey Blog, February 2021 The Phoenix from Greek mythology was a feathered creature of great size with large wings and talons, its plumage vibrant and beautiful. It is still used today as the emblem on the Presidential standard of Greece. The Phoenix lived for 500 years before it built its own funeral pyre, burst into flames and died, consumed in its own fiery inferno..