ISSUE 8 FEBRUARY 2019 preview New patterns hot off the press

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR

minute make Re-fashion a blanket into a stylish cowl This season’s neck poncho must-haves The blazer and how to add checks and plaids to your wardrobe

BLUE RINSE How tie-dye has gone luxury upmarket Q&A We chat with…. Marcy Hariell AKA BUYING GUIDE Oonaballoona Nikki Brooks-Revis from TO THREADSThe RIGHT way Beaute J’Adore to choose threads WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM New!sewdirect.com All your favourite pattern brands, just a click away... ISSUE 8 FEBRUARY 2019 Pattern preview New sewing patterns hot off the press From the editors… THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR DRESSMAKERS

A new year is always a time of good intentions and often involves giving something up but we say minute make Re-fashion a it’s a time for enriching our lives instead. We’re hoping this issue will spur you to sew more and This season’s blanket into a stylish cowl must-haves neck poncho start projects that challenge you. The blazer and how to add Here’s a question for you, “How do you choose your threads for sewing?” Choosing the right checks and plaids to your wardrobe sewing to use is key to a successful make – we share how you should be selecting your BLUE RINSE sewing threads. How tie-dye luxury has gone Two of latest High Street trends are the ever-practical fitted blazer and wearing plaids and upmarket checks – we look into adding both of these your handmade wardrobe. Like it or loathe it, tie-dye is set to make a comeback this year. On page 26, we share with you how we can make it classic rather than tragic! Q&A We chat with….

Marcy Hariell AKA We’re super excited to see that The Great British Sewing Bee is back on UK screens this Oonaballoona Nikki Brooks-Revis from BUYING GUIDE Beaute J’Adore TO THREADS February, and we’ll be keeping you posted about it on our website. The RIGHT way to choose threads There’s been a lot of discussions over the last few weeks on social media about what is the WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM average sewing pattern size, and whether pattern companies do enough to support curvy sewers. We say, you’re never the wrong size to wear something if it makes you happy! Our cover features the Flatiron Coat from the Sewing Workshop www.sewingworkshop.com Enjoy sewing,

Julie and Emily Bonnar The Pattern Pages Julie and Em www.thepatternpages.com

We’ve just been sent a beautiful Maker’s Workbook: Sewing from Creative Industry to help us keep track We love of all our sewing projects. If you’re like us you’ll have several sewing projects on-the-go at once, so it’s hard remembering all the details. This A5 jourmal can help you record, design and plan – all in one handy place. It features a sewing reference at the back with needle sizes and when you should use them plus some wonderful sewing quotes throughout that will make you smile and inspire you. You can also download additional pages when it gets full. Purchase your own for £12.50 at www.creative-industry.co.uk

Keep in the loop with The Pattern Pages...

Email: : Pinterest: Facebook: Instagram: [email protected] @ThePatternPages www.pinterest www.facebook.com www.instagram.com /thepatternpages /thepatternpages /thepatternpages Designer: Sarah Barnes, [email protected]

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Hooked on books Sewing books that you’re going to want28 to have on your bookshelf

60-minute make Refashion a blanket into a stylish cowl29 poncho for spring

REGULARS Pattern preview New sewing patterns hot off the press12 The edit…. We pick our favourite patterns for 6 Hot fabrics 26 beginners to make the hottest trends The latest fabric for this season’s sewing14 for 2019 On our radar We heart fringed benefits Things we thought you might like 17 How to add this trendy embellishment10 to know…. to your wardrobe

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STYLISH SEWING 12 Sew the look – trail blazing 13 The fitted blazer is this season’s must-20 make jacket

Tie-dye - blue rinse luxury The beloved hippie prints are making26 a comeback and have gone upmarket

Sew the look – in between the lines Here are six looks to add plaids/checks32 to your wardrobe

Ways to wear Sewing with eye-catching prints is a35 chance for you to put your own stamp MEET & GREET on your wardrobe

10 minutes with…. TECHNICAL TALK Nikki Brooks-Revis from Beauté J’Adore9 Our guide to Maker in Spotlight buying threads We chat to Marcy Harriell from the 24 How do you pick your threads, we help22 successful blog, Oonaballoona you choose the right one!

www.thepatternpages.com 5 … If one of your new year’s resolutionsedit was to make your own clothes – here are a few of our favourite patterns for beginners to make the hottest trends for 2019

The Adella Bow Court Shoe from Katy Perry www.katyperrycollections.com

Betty Dress (#S1047) My Image www.madebyoranges.com

CURVY COWLS It ‘s a trend that you either love or loathe, but the cowl neck is making a comeback. This simple to make long knit dress certainly has a stylish feel and is perfect for chillier days. One Shouldered Bow Dress Pattern Runway www.patternrunway.com

SUPERSIZE BOWS Big bows are trending and can add a bit of romance and glamour to an outfit. This dramatic cocktail dress is pretty quick to sew up and features a draped front and pleated bow shoulder.

Colourblock Dress Sew Different www.sewdifferent.com.uk

COLOURBLOCKING A simple pattern can be made into something truly special with some colour blocking. This clever pull-over-the-head dress pattern from Sew Different cries out for colour.

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QUICK AND EASY COLLECTIONS TO MAKE THE TRENDS: Most pattern envelopes will point out what sewing skills are required to make up the pattern. Some of the larger pattern companies do their own special collections just for newbies .

Burda: Super Easy Simplicity: Easy-to-Sew, Learn-to-Sew Butterick: - Fast & Easy, See & Sew McCall’s: Easy, Learn to Sew for Fun Kwik Sew: Kwik Start Vogue: - Very Easy, Five easy Pieces

Vogue 9246 www.sewdirect.com

READY STEADY WARDROBE Pick up a pattern that features several patterns in one envelope like Vogue 9246. This way you know you have a set of garments that have been designed to work together.

Montrose Top Cashmerette PDF can be downloaded from www.cashmerette.com To find a UK stockist – visit http://www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-montrose

LUXURY LACE Elevate your style with a lace top. The Montrose Top is a timeless pattern that will show off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. Available in size 12-28 with a standard or full bicep sleeve options, as well as three cups sizes C/D, E/F and G/H.

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10 minutes with... Nikki Brooks-Revis from Beauté J’Adore

Tell us a bit about yourself What or who influences the sorts of and when you decided to garments you choose to sew and like start your Art of DIY blog, to wear? Beauté J’Adore? At this point, 90 per cent of my wardrobe is I made my first horribly made handmade so what influences my decision skirt in May of 2012, after now is creating pieces that are different. I quitting my job as a general don’t have a ‘work wardrobe’ so I’m pretty manager at an energy efficiency free to experiment, and if I choose I can wear company at the beginning a sequined pencil skirt to a meeting on a of the year. My mother had Tuesday morning! just passed away five months before, and I decided to do You’ve now started to produce your own something different with my range of digital patterns. It was love at first life. I no longer wanted to work sight for us when we saw the gathered tunic endless hours for someone and pleated-sleeve belted coat. Tell us more else and her passing put my life about them? into perspective. I didn’t quite Thank you, mosy of my inspiration comes know what I wanted to do, but from my desire to put a spin on Street Style I knew I wanted to take time fashion and make it more accessible for off and figure it out. I started others. Like many sewers, I’m drawn to this my blog, which started off as style, but it’s not always conducive to our a DIY cooking, skincare and lifestyles so I’m inspired to create a wearable home décor blog that morphed Street Style wardrobe. into a DIY fashion blog, once I discovered my love of sewing. Do you think sewing is a learning curve, and Tell us a bit about your what happenes when it collaboration with the sewing doesn’t go right? pattern brand McCall’s? I’ve had many sewing I approached them with the idea disasters! I know very of designing fashionable patterns early on and I’ll scrap it for the new sewer. The whole before I waste too much idea was designing clothes that time on it. I absolutely I wanted to wear. That love making coats and collaboration has changed I’m pretty proud of every a bit too, and includes one I’ve made so far. fashionable mother and daughter patterns. What advice would you When I have a pattern give to new sewers? idea, I think would it make a If you’re making mistakes, great addition to the line-up. you’re learning – so learn I submit them and the design as much as you can! folks make sure it’s not going to The Internet has a ton of conflict with any other designs resources, all you need in the same season and the is a basic sample making begins. and access to a browser Contact to get started. Beauté J’Adore www.beautejadore.com www.thepatternpages.com 9 Fringe Bag £39.50 Oliver Bonas www.oliverbonas.com Inject a tactile edge to your outfit with EASY WAY TO WEAR the fringed design of this deep green tone Adding a fringing to accessories is a less cross body bag. intimating way to add it to your wardrobe.

Rosie Tan Fringed Ankle Boots, £24.99, SauteStyles www.sautestyles.com This pair of fringed pair of ankle boots are perfect for nights out.

Sydney Fringe Necklace, £40.75, Love Astrid www.madebyastrid.etsy.com

UP TO YOUR NECK IN GORGEOUSNESS This lovely lime green and yellow fringe necklace has been hand-wrapped with colourful . Handmade by Love Astrid, and designed to be the focal point of your outfit, it’s perfect to go with your latest outfit.

fringed benefits Yee-haw! Fringing on fashion is ‘not just for cowgirls’ but how can you add this trending to your wardrobe, and make it the decoration of your choice?

Fringing with ball bead chain, £9.45 per metre Imitation suede fringing, £12 per metre www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

SEW THE TREND MacCulloch & Wallis stocks #6565, £7.50 every type of fringe imaginable Burda including beaded, tassels, www.sewdirect.com feathers, pompom, faux fur, and bullion in a wide selection BEST WITH of colours. We love this multi- BLOCK COLOUR coloured decorative fringing We love this dress with ball bead chain. Or why sewing pattern. It looks not add a touch of glamour simple but so stylish. the with this imitation suede beaded around the fringing to your favourite killer adds a touch heels. It comes in five colours. of glamour to a block colour dress. The pattern is available in sizes 8-20.

10 www.thepatternpages.com www.thepatternpages.com 10 Tabor top

Nahale skirt and pants

One wardrobe idea … 100’s more on Pattern Finder

A free to use resource listing the very best Indie patterns filter by Fabric Type | Garment Type | Brand | Skill Level

visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/patternpages CLICK or TAP HERE SMILLA BLOUSE New sewing patterns Schnitchen Patterns hot off the press www.schnittchen.com/en This casual wrap blouse is a little bit special and features a high stand-up collar with a , which elegantly encloses the neckline and runs into a V-neck. A tie pulled in the front through two openings is another stylish detail that gives the blouse its elegance. The pattern is available in sizes 34-44.

#8789 Simplicity www.sewdirect.com/8789 This is another handy garment to have in your wardrobe, and ideal for pairing with skirts and trousers. This blouse bodysuit shirt with knit bottom features a snap crotch closure, front and sleeve variations and gathers to give you that perfect tucked in look. Available in sizes XS-XL.

ADRIENNE BLOUSE Friday Pattern Co To find a UK stockist, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-adrienne This knit blouse is such a useful addition to any wardrobe. The billowy statement sleeves are gathered at the shoulders and the with elastic gives it a contemporary look. The length is slightly cropped with the hitting just below your belly . The blouse comes in sizes XS-M.

12 www.thepatternpages.com THEA DRESS Sew Over It www.sewoverit.co.uk The Thea Dress is a modern knit dress with a bold silhouette. The cocoon shape of the dress contrasts with the narrow batwing drop-shoulder sleeves, and boat neckline for a flattering look whatever your body shape. Inspired by cool, minimalist designs from the continent, you can wear this dress anywhere. Quick to make, with just three pieces, this dress makes a great afternoon project for beginners and experienced sewers alike. Pop on a chunky necklace and it’s perfect for heading from the office to after- work drinks.

FLATIRON COAT Sewing Workshop www.sewingworkshop.com This is definitely our favourite pattern release, so much so we had to share it with you on our front cover! The PEGGY PINAFORE elegantly tailored Flatiron coat is loose- Pipe Dream Patterns fitting with dropped shoulders, full www.pipedreampatterns.co.uk sleeves, side vents, draped and This set of patterns includes options three-snap closures. It can be made as a for a pinafore, dress and skirt. It has long coat or mid-length jacket. The a unusual pleated skirt and a low pattern also includes overlapping bodice that zips up the front. The and conventional pinafore is great for layering and hugs techniques, and is suitable for your natural curves. You can also opt fabrics such as no-fray wool, for a high necked bodice, keeping wool blends and mid-weight that zip front and skirt. Shorten it and knits, sweater knits, boucle, you have a dress or add a waistband novelty weaves, and wovens to make a skirt. in wool, linen, cotton, rayon, blends. Available in sizes XS-XXL.

www.thepatternpages.com 13 ALL AT SEA The Sea Goddess for Clothworks features Laurel Burch’s lovely vibrant designs including majestic mermaids, colourful fish and flowers in this expressive collection, as well as a 24in x 44in panel design. To view the collection visit www.eqsuk.com HOT FESTIVAL FUN The fabric company, Monaluna, started out of a desire to bring more sustainable alternatives Fabrics to the fabric marketplace. Latest fabric for sewing this season Festival is the latest fabric 100% organic cotton collection, which features stunning designs of exotic animals, fruit and flowers. To view this range from Monaluna, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-festival

APRIL SHOWERS The new line of matte laminates features prints from a variety of Cloud9 designers, and are ideal for making items that could do with resisting water such as aprons, showerproof jackets and toiletry bags. These are 100 per cent organic cotton and feature eight light-hearted designs. To find your local UK stockist visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-c9-laminates

*The T-shirt and skirt illustrations are to showcase the fabrics and are not to scale. 14 www.thepatternpages.com AS FREE AS A BIRD We think this collection has a bit of a whimsical arts and craft feel to it with a different bird and foliage for each beautiful colourway. These fabrics would be perfect for a showstopper spring dress. Bird and Branches has been created by illustrator, Kirsten Sevi, and the collection is also 100 per cent certified organic cotton. WEEKEND GETAWAY To view more of the collection visit: Contemporary florals are abound in this collection. Weekend www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-c9-birdsandbranches Getaway by Michael Miller Fabrics includes subtle pastel shades of teal, yellow, periwinkle, rosy pink and mint green, and are perfect for spring makes. To view more Michael Miller collections visit www.eqsuk.com

40 COLOURFUL COLLECTIONS Pat Bravo’s newly released Legendary fabric collection for Art Gallery Fabrics tells the story of her best-selling designs and celebrates her achievement of 40 collections. This bohemian style GONE COUNTRY range brings together some wonderful designs of Pat’s exquisite Riley Blake’s Farm Girl Vintage is a colourful collection use of colour, which she has created over 14 years. from Lori Holt. Inspired by countryside life, it includes an To find a UK stockist near you visit array of ditsy florals, cherries, motifs and farm-themed text www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-legendary that offers uplifting sewing possibilities. To view more from this collection visit www.eqsuk.com

BLUE IS THE COLOUR We love this new collection and if your favourite colour is blue, then you’ll love these prints from Henry Glass too. Blue dream is a paradise of vintage florals and geometric designs, which will bring classic elegance to a range of projects. To find a UK stockist visit www.eqsuk.com

*The T-shirt and skirt illustrations are to showcase the fabrics and are not to scale. www.thepatternpages.com 15 #LibertyHeskethHouse

To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033 On our radar Things we thought you might like to know......

A date for your diary

SEW YOUR STYLE 2019 WINNERS For those of you reading this in the UK, we just wanted to remind you that The Pattern Pages will be at Sewing for Pleasure (stand G12) between 14th and 17th March 2019. We look forward to Judges for 2019 are sharing with you the finalists’ garments (stand H12), Alison Smith from School who entered our collaboration with The Creative of Sewing, Jules Fallon from Craft shows and ICHF Events. Do come along and Sew Me Something and say hello. The winners will be announced on the Brenda Killigrew from catwalk on the Sunday. Inkberrow Design Centre

The bee is back at the beeb

It’s been over two years since the last series of The Great British Sewing Bee and we’ve all missed it. The Great British Sewing Bee returns to BBC2 on 12th February 2019 with series 5 to test Britain’s best home sewers on their sewing and dressmaking skills. Apparently the standard of sewing is phenomenal this year - we can’t wait to watch and keep you posted! The series will last eight weeks and fashion designer, and creative director of bespoke , Norton & Sons of Saville Row, , will judge as usual, and are joined by comedian Joel Lycett as the new host replacing .

www.thepatternpages.com 17 HEY GOOD LOOKING The new 4300QDC sewing machine is a well equipped to cope with whatever you throw at it. It sports an extensive range of functions for dressmaking, quilting and home sewing projects. Cutting edge features include 300 stitches including fun decorative stitches, twin-needle functionality, superior editing and mirror stitching, and a wide range of feet and accessories. It also comes with an extension table and sturdy hard case, and is DESIGNED IN THE UK quite light so is ideal to take to workshops. The side cover opens and there’s the option for a magnifier (additional purchase), to see close up. The Janome 4300QDC certainly has the power, The new Funky Iron from British born, The Funky Iron Company precision and convenience you need when sewing. To find a will add a splash of colour, retro good looks and great local UK retailer visit www.janome.co.uk/retailer-search functionality to your pressing. It has a built-in steam pump, so you benefit from continuous steam and is designed to make the user experience as smooth, comfortable and efficient as possible. It has a long 3m power cord, large 450ml water tank The measure of it and weighs just 1.3kg. The ceramic soleplate ensures a smooth glide and the temperature and steam can be managed from separate controls. It has a lifelong anti-scale system built in, water spray and self-clean . A complimentary heat- resistant silicone pad is included to rest your iron. We think it would make a great addition to your sewing room. It retails at £69 and is available in three colours – turquoise, black and red. To buy visit www.thefunkyironcompany.com

How many times do you go back and forth from your ironing board One-stop shop to get a ? The Press Mate is a generously sized ironing Netprinter Sewing Services has recently launched a new board cover and has been service where they supply complete packages for pattern designed with sewers in mind. designers consisting of a full-colour printed envelope and It’s printed with grid and a AO pattern and instruction book. These start in quantities variety of markings that are ideal as low as 100, and from 200 onwards so you can have for hemming, squaring and several designs on one order. Simon King , MD said the blocking. The cover is made response has been overwhelming and pattern designers from a a poly-cotton blend are saying, “It’s great not to have to go to several printers fabric and generously sized to and have everything in one place. It’s a brilliant start up fit a standard ironing board. price but also good for existing designers who want to test To find a local UK retailer their new designs.” visit www.eqsuk.com To find out more, visit www.netprinter.co.uk

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TRANSFORMABLE 4-IN-1 COAT, DRESSY TALK Sizes XS-XXL, €17.60 For PDF pattern visit www.dressytalk.com

This multi-pack of patterns features a coat, skirt, bolero and beautiful detachable peplum jacket with sweet overskirt that’s perfect for accentuating your waistline.

SIMPLICITY 1421 Sizes 6-24, £9.50 www.sewdirect.com

This chic unlined blazer can be made with or without a collar, and has separate pieces for A-D cup sizes so the fit will be perfect. Add a stunning trim to make this jacket stand out from the crowd! Sew the look TRAIL BLAZING! The blazer is this season’s must-have jacket. Having tailored pieces in your wardrobe don’t only fit well, but can be a versatile addition

Reasons why you should have tailored garments in your wardrobe: Separates are easily You can be your The fit is more teamed up with a blazer own designer and flattering and making other garments choose the fabrics garments look in your wardrobe more and patterns you better on you. practical to wear. want to sew.

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1. The fit is more flattering and garments look better on you. 2. Individual items such as jackets and trousers can be teamed up with other garments making your wardrobe more practical. 3. You can be your own designer choosing the fabrics and pattern you want to sew. THE BESPOKE BLAZER, SEW TO GROW Sizes 16-32 (UK), £16.50 For PDF pattern visit www.sewtogrow.com To find a UK stockist, visitwww.hantexonline.co.uk/pp- bespoke-blazer

Make the ¾-sleeve version from rayon for a flirty casual feel or use structured linen for a more formal look. The back seaming contours to create a figure flattering shape and the front panels fold back to reveal the . Add some much-needed colour with your favourite pair of jeans or smart dress.

BELLATRIX, PAPERCUT PATTERNS Sizes XXS-XL, $30 (NZD) www.papercutpatterns.com

This fully lined, long sleeved blazer features a single button closure, and inseam welt pockets. Make with a long hemline to dress up any outfit, go for the cropped version that curves up at the back or Sew the look for some ’80s glamour add a sparkly shawl collar and shoulder pads.

ANISE JACKET, COLETTE Sizes 0-18, $14 (USD) MAKING www.colettepatterns.com TIPS Get a friend to help with your body This double-breasted jacket has measurements - they gentle shaping, simple rounded will be more accurate. collar and tailored sleeves. The one-piece front makes Always pick a sewing it easy to use with pattern pattern for the biggest fabrics such as plaids part of your body and take or stripes, and can be the rest of the garment in. made with full-length or a flattering A muslin or toile is below-elbow a must as a bad fit misses sleeve. It looks the point of making it great in pastel fitted! and neutral colours for spring.

www.thepatternpages.com 21 BUYING GUIDE TO THREADS How do you pick your threads? Do you just select your thread by colour? Sewing with the right thread is the key to any successful sewing project. Here’s our guide to choosing them

TYPES OF THREAD Polyester READING A SPOOL These threads can’t withstand high temperatures, and can be damaged Did you know that your thread spool Silk when pressing on higher heat settings can tell you a lot about it. It lists the fibre Silk thread is very fine, and is ideal for so are best used with synthetic fabrics content, manufacturer and colour number, using with natural fibres such as silk or which require a cooler press. Polyester which is very useful if you need to buy wool. It’s very strong and can withstand threads are easier to sew with and will more thread at a later date. It also often high temperatures so is perfect for glide through the fabric. carries weight and the number of strands tailoring projects. that are twisted together. This is usually TIP: Use with synthetic and listed with two numbers – the higher the TIP: Silk thread makes a good basting stretch fabrics. first number, the finer the thread. or tacking thread as it doesn’t leave holes in the fabric. Other threads fit for purpose THREAD WEIGHT Cotton It is possible to buy threads designed Use cotton threads with natural fibred for specific tasks too such as top- Threads come in lots of different weights fabrics, as they can stand up to heat stitching, threads for sewing jeans, and thicknesses. The heavier or thicker when pressing seams. Many cotton metallic, , invisible and the thread the more visible your stitches threads are mercerised, which means (elastic) threads. All-purpose thread is will be. When using thicker threads they’ve gone through a series of cotton wrapped in polyester, and is an you may need to adjust your sewing chemical processes to make them easier inexpensive option. machine’s tension and choose a sewing to dye. This also gives them a shine and machine needle that has a larger enough smooth finish. eye. Weight is shown as a measurement of the length of 1gm of thread (wt). If 1gm is 30 metres long, then this thread is a 30-weight thread. The higher the weight, the finer the thread is. 40wt is the favourite weight for sewing.

TIP: Use thicker threads for sewing thicker fabrics for additional strength.

“Use 100 per cent cotton thread such as size 80 Madeira thread on sheers, delicate fabrics and where you want to the to be invisible.”

Tip from Maderia

22 www.thepatternpages.com GET ORGANISED On the rack Store all your thread right at your COLOUR MATCHING Storing threads neatly can be a bit of fingertips with this quality thread a challenge. Here are a couple of our rack from June , and can Make sure you match fabric and favourite solutions: accommodate up to 60 standard thread in daylight to ensure you get sized spools. a good match. If you’re unable to Pod it! To find your local UK stockist, visit get a complete match, always go for The SpoolPod from Creative Industry www.eqsuk.com the darker thread as a lighter thread (shown below) is a brilliant way of can be more visible. For patterned keeping your matching bobbin and thread fabrics, choose a thread to go with the spools together. You can buy 5 for £19 background colour. and they can be shipped anywhere in the world (free postage in the UK). - TIP: When choosing a thread Get 10 per cent off when you use for top stitching why not go discount code: patternpages on any order for a contrasting colour to (not just on SpoolPods) at make it stand out. www.creative-industry.co.uk

BE RESPONSIBLE

Many of the reputable thread brands are becoming environmentally responsible.

Gütermann’s Sew-all Thread 100 m rPET comes from its creativ range, and is made of 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles. QUICK TIPS FOR It’s available in 50 different colours on 100m reels and is suitable for machine CHOOSING YOUR THREAD and hand-stitching. The Starter kit includes seven of the most used shades. Check your sewing pattern to see what Scanfil is a 100 per cent long staple, threads are recommended combed cotton thread produced from Buy thread from a reputable brand organically grown cotton. It’s low lint and Use the same type of thread as the fabric wound on traditional style wooden spools so it’s plastic free too.

“When you open a new reel, Best sewing thread brands you’ll find the end secured Aurifil within the groove at the base www.aurifil.com of the reel. You can pull this Gütermann www.guetermann.com/en open slightly to help release Madeira the thread end. Then push www.madeira.co.uk back in place. After use, Marathon secure the thread end www.marathonthreads.co.uk/en back in the groove for tangle Scanfil free storage,” www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-scanfil YLI threads TIP from Gütermann www.eqsuk.com/products/brands/yli

www.thepatternpages.com 23 Maker in the spotlight We chat to Marcy Harriell from the successful blog Oonaballoona and take a look into her technicolour world of sewing

How long have you been sewing and when did you decide to start your Oonaballoona blog? I’m a professional actress, singer, dancer, and have been sewing and blogging for just over a decade now, which blows my mind. I took up this craft during a temporary move to Los Angeles, which is also when I decided to jump into the waters of blogging.

It’s such a great name for a blog – how did you come up with the idea and when do you get time to sew? My blog was unwittingly named by my parents. As a child, they gave me many nicknames including oonaballoona from kalkatroona. that I have hours to fill. Sewing was a distraction from the nonstop When Rob (my husband) and I made our move to LA back in 2008, ride of the business, and when we moved back to New York, it stuck I started the blog to keep in touch with our family. I had never lived with me! further than a state away from my folks, and so I named it for them. Rob has always been a huge supporter of what I do (and, surprise… Oona has become a sort of sewing alter ego! he learned how to sew before I did in the costume shop of a musical My ‘real life’ job of acting affords me the time to sew. I can be in a he was performing in!). I remember one of the first garments I made Broadway show doing eight performances a week, on set shooting for – the Anda dress from Burdastyle. It was for my friend’s birthday, a month, or just pounding the pavement for auditions, but with all and when she opened the prize, Rob immediately pointed out all of the straight stitching and seams. I had no idea he’d been clocking it, and of course, it just made me the happiest. Team Harriell is how we get through it all.

Tell us how you’ve been able to link your acting with sewing recently? This marriage is nothing I ever expected, and everything I didn’t know I wanted! When I was approached by Bluprint (used to be Craftsy), I knew that the original style of teaching wouldn’t fit my vibe – although I’ve learned so much from those classes (and continue to do so). Garments will lead to completely unrelated stories, and the making of anything always has a bump or two in the road, which I stubbornly push through to make it work. The hope for this series was that we’d make my blog come to life, and I think we have done that. Our mornings in our little NY apartment usually involve Rob and I pondering over coffee on what’s on the dressform and asking questions like “did you mean to put that giant hibiscus right over

24 www.thepatternpages.com MAKERS in the spotlight

your, erm, flower,” which leads to the next left turn at Albuquerque in my sewing journey. That’s what we wanted to show in Re:Fashion – that sewing isn’t a straight line. Problems do happen to the best of us, and it’s much more fun to jump in with both feet and tackle those hurdles, especially with a partner in crime. Our biggest hope is to provide inspiration with a lot of laughter. myself to shop for those items Contact What or who influences your style and the sorts of now, unless I’m really Oonaballoona garments you sew and like to wear? driven to make them. A www.oonaballoona.com What really excites me is seeing people rocking a look that is truly chef once said, “We don’t eat ‘them’, whether that’s a conservative suit or a fringed ballgown. our own food every night, you When I read blogs or scroll through Instagram, and see my fellow have to go to a restaurant once sewists showing off a finished item with glee, it fuels my own fire to in a while!” create. I get really inspired by people revelling in their own I’m always proudest of what I’m working on at the moment. If I’m personal style! not, then it’s heading for a sewing disaster, which luckily in my world At 5ft 3in, I happily ignore the rule of being too short to wear is okay. I truly consider anything I’ve worked on to be worth it, as a large-scale print or full-length dress, and feel most myself when every stitch is a sewing experience. wearing a summer maxi dress. What exciting plans do you have for the future? Do you wear everything you make? Has there been I’m working on a blog series inspired by one of my best friends, who any sewing disasters that you will admit to or an after watching Re:Fashion was also motviated to start sewing. She item that you are really proud of? literally started stitching last autumn, and has been churning out My closet is feeling the weight of a decade of sewing but I do wear garments just like I did when I started 10 years ago. almost everything I make,! The only things I don’t wear are items Her questions remind me of all the mystery that was out there that I have to make for a part as an actor - these don’t exist in my when I first started sewing so we are going to showcase those handmade technicolour closet, and make me so sad in the stitching questions, pitfalls, and ultimately victories. Because after all, when of them. I can barely look at them once they’re finished! I’ve allowed you make it, it IS a victory!

www.thepatternpages.com 25 All-purpose evening blue, £5.89

BLUE RINSE LUXURY If you thought tie-dye was reserved for ’60s then think again as the beloved hippie prints are making Hide and Seek maxi dress a comeback and have gone upmarket Marafiki

FABRIC-READY Want the look but don’t want to get your hands dirty? Create the look with gorgeous fabrics.

These gorgeous stamped batiks from Sew Simple feature eight elegant patterns, which are hand- dyed and come in nine beautiful colourways. To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com

HOW TO WEAR Sew Simple polo batiks (also known as smoke batiks), TIE-DYE are 100 per cent cotton and ideal for mix and matching. With more than 100 beautiful colours in the range, you’re guaranteed to find a shade that you like.  Wear it sparingly To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com  Pair back with a solid coloured garment Tie-dyed triangle square  Shibori, indigo and from Laurie batik are great alternatives Kent Designs  Wear with tailored pieces to add fun to a sophisticated look

Spoonflower gives sewers the chance to buy fabric created by independent designers who earn commission when you buy. We’ve found more than 1000 tie-dye designs to choose from. Here Aqua Shibori are just three of our favourite designs. from The Sneaky Cat Head Tie To view the tie-dye designs, visit Playful Crow Dye from Xoxotique www.spoonflower.com

26 www.thepatternpages.com READ ALL ABOUT IT! DYEING FOR COLOUR Using dyes gives you the ability to control Here are two of the latest resource books to the pattern and colour of your fabric help you master the art of dyeing. BLUE RINSE This one-step Shibori tie-dye fabric SHIBORI FOR kit from Tulip features three bottles of ART LOVERS Shibori-inspired dye – sky, grey and Shibori is one of the richest indigo. Best used with natural fibred textile traditions, and LUXURY fabrics, the kit includes everything commonly associated that’s needed to give the process a go. with Japan, but is in Buy for £8.72 from Tulip fact a technique long used in Africa, India and South America. Shibori for Textile Artists is a practical Rit all-purpose dye is book by Janice Gunner perfect for allsorts of fabrics combines traditional Japanese, African and including cotton, wool and Indian shibori methods with contemporary silk, as well as synthetics techniques to create stunning that are like nylon and rayon. It’s full of intricate patterns and bold colour. Lots a simple, non-toxic way of techniques are covered from tied and to bring colour to your stitched designs to ideas for wrapping, folding, garments or rejuvenating clamping, pleating and . This book is faded clothing. aimed at quilters, embroiderers and textile Take a look at one of Rit’s artists of all abilities. easy-to-follow tutorials on Published by Batsford, this book can be how to create a tie-dye, purchased online for £12.48 – click here ombré, dip dyed, marbled or shibori patterns – click here. THE POWER OF PIGMENT Discover indigo with KITS FROM THE TIE-DYE EXPERT this inspiring book written This Indigo Tie-Dye kit comes from tie-dye by Douglas experts, Jacquard and brings the art of indigo Luhanko dyeing to the home dyer in a user-friendly and Kerstin formulation. Neumuller. Indigo dye comes from a plant, and is one of Indigo: the oldest dyes used for colouring fabrics, Culitvate, Dye and still used to colour our blue jeans and Create today. Its unique characteristics make shows how it easy to create wonderful resist to grow, patterns on fabric. extract and dye with indigo. From cowboys’ To buy this indigo kit for £12.70 denim to the jeans in your wardrobe, indigo’s – click here enduring popularity survives to this day. This handbook shows you how to use this powerful pigment to breathe life into your clothes, as well as a wealth of dying recipes with other plants The Camo kit uses an original tie- and textile ideas. dye method designed to get the No matter where you live, the authors provide best camouflage look around and gardening tips for the best species of indigo so includes three tying techniques. It you can grow indigo yourself. Learn a variety of has been designed to be used on different dyeing techniques from warm or cold 100 per cent cotton, linen, rayon dyeing, as well as other dyeing pigments. The and hemp fabrics and will dye up book finishes with a whole section on projects. to four shirts. The kit can be purchased for Published by Pavilion Books, Indigo: Cultivate, £11.08 – click here dye, create (978-1911595625) is available for £13.18 – click here

Tie dye illustration coutesy of Freepik www.thepatternpages.com 27 The latest sewing books that you’re going to want to have on your sewing room bookshelf on books

“A great book for beginners. Everything you ever need to know about sewing in one handy book.”

Debbie Shore’s Sewing Room Secrets: Machine Sewing: Top tips and techniques for successful sewing By Debbie Shore Stylish Dress Book: Sewing: Techniques 978-1782213369 Wear with Freedom for Beginners Debbie Shore is one of UK’s the most By Yoshiko Tsukirori By Francesca Sterlacci popular sewing designers and has 978-0804843157 978-1786271983 produced a whole library full of sewing Sew your own chic dresses with this Francesca Sterlacci is the founder books. In this one, she shares her expert stylish sewing book. Japanese style has and CEO of The University of Fashion, tips, techniques and trade secrets for long been admired for its grace and which is the first and largest online successful sewing. This is the first book artistry. This book features 26 pullout fashion design video library in the in a new Sewing Room Secrets series, sewing patterns for comfortable and world. Knowing how to sew will make and is jam-packed with sewing know- relaxed fit garments including dresses you a better designer and learn what how, as well as 10 gorgeous projects to and tops, with easy to follow instructions is possible as well be inspired by the help you practise what you have learned. and stunning photography – you’re creative possibilities of Whether you’re just starting out on your going to want to make them all! sewing techniques. sewing journey or are an experienced Start learning the basics from how sewer looking to perfect your working to choose tools, threads, pressing methods – this book will build your “The simple lines make the techniques and use and confidence and skills in machine sewing. garments in this book easy to linings. Techniques include seam and Take a peak into Debbie’s sewing wear by women of all ages hem finishes, sewing buttons and room, where she’ll guide you around and sizes. The book includes a , working with knit fabrics your sewing machine, explains the tools, complete western-sized sewing and finishing details including bindings materials and techniques that you will pattern for each design that’s and spaghetti straps, tailored pockets need, plus a troubleshooting section easily adjusted to fit your body.” and zips. Each lesson is illustrated with to reassure and guide you when you step-by-step photographs. encounter problems. Where to buy Where to buy Where to buy Published by Tuttle Publishing, this book came out at the end of last year Published by Laurence King Publishing Published by Search Press in January and can be purchased for £12.24 – in January 2019, this book can be 2019, this can be purchased for £7.18 click here purchased for £40 – click here – click here

28 www.thepatternpages.com 60-minute make Blanket coverage

Refashion a blanket or a large scarf into a stylish poncho for spring with this year’s cowl neck. It’s quick and easy to make, and is perfect when a coat is too much

Materials

A blanket or large scarf – ours measured 2m (2yds) x 1m (1yd) Matching thread

www.thepatternpages.com 29 Steps to make TIP: Play around with how you put the poncho together and make the most of the blanket’s design. If you have more leftover fabric why not add some patch pockets too.

With right sides still together, two of the sides that are at right angles to each other. With a 13mm , both sides.

Start by folding the blanket in half lengthways with right sides together. Measure the neckline circumference. Ours measured 81cmx43cm (32inx17in). Using the leftover fabric, make a rectangle that’s the same size as the neckline. With right sides together, sew the two shorter sides together and fold in half lengthwise.

Fold over so it becomes a square. Cut and save the leftover fabric to make the cowl neckline later.

With right sides together, place the cowl neck over the top of neck of the poncho and pin the On the corner of the two newly raw edges together and sew. sewn seams, cut a neckline. We Understitch inside the neckline when you used a jumper to get the right attach to the poncho so the layers lay shape. A neckline with a slightly flat and trim all seams to remove lower front will help the cowl to sit better. any additional bulk.

30 www.thepatternpages.com Are you a pattern designer?

The Pattern Pages has joined forces with Netprinter who is currently negotiating with a major chain of retail outlets and interested in stocking sewing patterns.

If this is successful, we’re on the look out for talented pattern designers to produce six to 10 sewing patterns to take into production. This is something we think hasn’t been done before in this way. It’s very exciting and is a chance for pattern designers who usually sell PDF patterns to get their designs into print and share in the profits!

If you’re interested in finding out more get in contact with us: Simon King, Managing Director of Netprinter on [email protected] Julie Bonnar, Editor of The Pattern Pages at [email protected] Sew the look in between the lines Checks and plaids are one of the biggest fashion trends now. Here’s 6 ways to add it to your wardrobe for a grown-up look

7840, MCCALLS www.sewdirect.com Sizes 8-24W, £9.75

COMFY CASUAL This loose-fitting pullover shirt has a wonderful shaped hem, back yoke and dropped shoulder and lots of collar, sleeve, pocket and length options to make it versatile for any occasion. The pattern is ideal for lightweight fabrics and would make a smart alternative for the weekend.

SOHO COAT, TESSUTI www.tessuti-shop.com Sizes XXS-XL, $12 (AUD)

MAKE A STATEMENT A check/plaid coat is a must-have piece for 6479, NEW LOOK this season, and we’re loving this unlined coat www.sewdirect.com with turned back collar, side pockets, drop Sizes 8-18, £9.75 shoulders, topstitched side seams and full- length sleeves with rolled back cuffs. CONTEMPORARY CAPE It’s fairly easy to sew and fastens with a single This cape with arm slits will transform your wardrobe. Slip button, and would suit fabrics such as medium- it on over a dress or separates to smarten up any outfit. The weight wool coatings including wool/cashmere pattern also includes a bow neck tunic with bishop sleeves, blends, wool tweed, wool boucle and double and side-zip trousers making it the ideal trio for the office. wool crepe.

32 www.thepatternpages.com CHECKS AND PLAIDS – WHAT’ IS THE DIFFERENCE?

Checks and plaids are often used interchangeably, but the patterns are different. Plaids and checks both feature horizontal and vertical stripes and intersect one another at 90-degree angles creating a grid-like pattern. The term ‘plaid’ is inspired by traditional tartan designs, but the pattern of the vertical stripe doesn’t have to match the pattern of the horizontal stripe. While ‘check’ patterns are simpler, they usually contain two alternating colours and are always 6442, BURDA symmetrical with crossed horizontal and vertical lines that form equal sized squares, and include www.sewdirect.com fabrics such as gingham and buffalo. Sizes 8-18, £7.95

Need to dress up? This dress pattern HANNAH DRESS, VICTORY features a flattering clever front twist just PATTERNS below a deep V-neckline. Make in a long, www.victorypatterns.com flared skirt suitable for a posh evening event Size 2-16, $16 or make with ¾ sleeves for women who like to feel well dressed everyday. How amazing SUBTLE AND SIMPLE does it look in this bold colour satin fabric. This sleeveless dress has a subtle A-line shift silhouette, and takes its inspiration from men’s shirting. It features angled side seams and front pockets, which transition cleverly into folding side-panels that wrap around to the back and criss- cross over each other. Version 2 allows you contrast the side panels, as well as button and neck binding, which look absolutely beautiful used with simple coloured checks.

152 SCOTTISH KILT, FOLKWEAR To find a UK stockist, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-kiltskirt Sizes S-L

TRENDS AND TRADITIONS The romance and authenticity of the Scottish Highlands is alive and well in this kilt skirt. Choose medium-weight worsted twill tartan wool for a tradition look.

www.thepatternpages.com 33 Sewing is a way of expressing your own personal style #6354, Burda www.sew direct.com WAYS TO WEAR Sewing with eye-catching prints is a chance for you to put your own stamp on your clothes. You just need to find the right fabric and patterns

TEAM UP WITH DAY TRIPPER This designer blouse has an angled seam on the front that’s perfect for personalising. Pair with your favourite jeans or paper bag trousers for a casual look.

Fabric from Monaluna’s Festival collection. To view this fabric range, visit www.hantexonline. co.uk/pp-festival

Fabric from Pat Bravo’s Legendary collection. To view this fabric range, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp- legendary Roscoe dress (and blouse), True Bias To find your local UK stockist www.hantexonline.co.uk/pp-roscoe

BOHO BEAUTY This dress has a centre slit, neckties and Fabric from Dream fabric raglan sleeves with lots of volume. Make collection by Henry Glass. it work for your wardrobe whatever the To find a UK stockist visit season and wear with tights and chunky www.eqsuk.com coatigan on cooler days.

DOTTIE ABOUT PRINT We love Dottie Angel sewing patterns as they have a real style of their own. Make a coat or jacket using double-faced pre- Fabric from Liberty’s quilted fabric. Edges are cleverly finished The Cottage Garden. with ½in wide double fold and To view this fabric range, visit pairs perfectly with large buttons. www.eqsuk.com

Bohomeian style and colourful prints are great combo. If you love patchwork, #8298, Simplicity ethnic prints, handmade and eye-catching design elements, you will certainly be www.sewdirect.com grabbing these fabrics and sewing patterns.

www.thepatternpages.com 35 Go ahead… get creative 230DC Easy to use... Make the right choice first time!

The new model 230DC has lots of easy to use features which make sewing a pleasure, it is the machine to grow with your skills and is both suitable for beginners and more experienced sewers. Fully computerised with stitches and settings at the touch of a button. No fuss threading with the auto , quick start bobbin & a hard cover for storage.

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5279 - Model 230DC Advert [210x297].indd 1 01/12/2017 16:22