Visiting Ireland

A Guidebook for First-time Tourists

Featuring details on: Counties Clare, Cork and Dublin; Northern Ireland; and more! Visiting Ireland An Introduction to Ireland Among the romantic preconceptions • Since 1921 the country has been visitors bring to Ireland, it is their divided into what’s now called the expectations of the landscape that Republic of Ireland, consisting of 26 counties, and Northern Ireland, uncommon geological richness and subject to devolved British rule, theare mostwarming likely effect to be of fulfilled. the Atlantic An produce an astonishing diversity of • The Republic’s population terrain on this small island, which is which comprises six counties. splashed throughout with lakes and Greateris roughly Dublin 4.4 million, area, while with crumpled granite of the Wicklow Hills Northern1.7 million Ireland’s residing population in the is Mutton grazing in the Irish countryside - sitsprimeval in utter bogland. contrast In tothe the east, horse- the an example of a beautiful landscape. grazing plain of the Curragh just a few some 650,000 occupying the west coast which faces the Atlantic, kilometres away, and in Connemara approximately 1.8 million, with source of much of Ireland and on the west coast, you can walk • The UK’s 2001 Census reported from beach to mountain to fen, from thatGreater 44 percentBelfast area.of Northern on around 150 days a year along the seaweed-strewn inlet to lily-covered Ireland’s population is Catholic eastBritain’s and southeastweather. On coasts, average, and it up rains to and 53 percent is Protestant, as many as 225 days a year in parts with the unhurried nature of rural while the Republic’s 2006 Census living,lough, thisin a matterscenic array of hours. encourages Coupled revealed that 88 percent of its the driest time, while December and leisurely investigation, especially on of the west and southwest. April is • Irish is the national language case, the weather is very changeable ofpopulation the Republic is Catholic. with English January are the wettest. Whatever the footBasic or Facts by bicycle. • Ireland’s landmass has a total rapidly replaced by brilliant sunshine and you’ll often find a soggy morning area of 84,412 square kilometres, recognized as a second official with its coastline stretching long periods of gorgeous weather, language. However, only around in the afternoon. Most years also see fifteen percent of the population the Shannon (358km), largest Whenhas ato good Visit competence in Irish. however. Generally, the sunniest lakefor 3152km. Lough Neagh Its longest (387 squareriver is Whenever you visit Ireland it’s wise kilometres) and its highest point is months are April, May and June, while to come prepared for wet and/or July and August are the warmest. windy conditions, especially along the Overall, the southeast gets the best of Carrauntoohil in Kerry (1038m). the sunshine.

A beautiful lake on an sunny day west of the city of Galway in County Galway.

2 Visiting Ireland Getting to and Around Ireland Dublin is the Republic of Ireland’s main point of arrival, travel quickly from Dublin Belfast that of the North, while Shannon, near Limerick or Belfast to outlying areas, city in County Clare, is the major airport giving direct it’s also worth considering bookingaccess to an the organized west coast. tour, North there American are plenty visitors of interesting can fly the internal flights that direct to Shannon, Dublin or Belfast. If you’re thinking of mayBy Rail also be available. Train services in the optionsIreland isbased easily in accessible Ireland, with from an the online US, with presence. several Republic are operated by Iarnród Éireann (Irish An Aer Lingus jet - the national New York (JFK) to Dublin, plus JFK to Shannon (summer Rail; 01/836 6222, http:// airline of the Republic. only),American with airlines Delta; Chicago offering to nonstop Dublin flights:with American; Atlanta and Newark to Belfast, Dublin and Shannon with Continental; are usually higher than takingwww.irishrail.ie a coach, though). Prices the national airline of the Republic, offers the widest journeys are often much and Philadelphia to Dublin with US Airways. Aer Lingus, quicker – for example, the train from Dublin to choice of routes, including nonstop flights from Boston, Killarney can take at least advance,Chicago, Newtheir York low-season and Orlando fares fromto Dublin, New andYork from (JFK) to two and a half hours less DublinBoston startand New at around York to US$650 Shannon. return If booked (including well taxes),in lines fan out from Dublin An Iarnród Éireann train fares rise to US$950 from New York, US$1650 from San towardsthan the thebus. southern The main and traveling through Wicklow, and from San Francisco around US$850. In high season western coasts, but there Ireland. hours thirty minutes from New York and thirteen hours are few links between thirtyFrancisco. minutes, Flying with time one to changeDublin, offor plane, example, from is around six them, and some counties (such as Donegal and Cavan)

become known as the Western Rail Corridor, County Clare San Francisco. have no rail links at all. Work has begun to open what has to Dublin during the summer and Air Transat has opened in 2010, and the next phase, Athenry to Tuam, is From Canada, Air Canada flies from Toronto nonstop to County Sligo (the first section, from Ennis to Athenry, hourssummertime thirty minutes flights from from Toronto Toronto, to thirteen Dublin andhours, Shannon, with dueTickets to commence come in a varietyoperation of formats in 2011). – single, day return, and from Montreal to Dublin. Flight times are around six advance, Air Canada’s fares are around Can$1200 return (includingone change taxes) of plane, from from Toronto, Vancouver. Can$1400 If booked well in canfive-day cost return,almost monthlyas much asreturn, a return family ticket day – and for example,monthly returns. However, bear in mind that sometimes a single note also that the price of travelling on the lines from fromGetting Vancouver. Around Once You’re There Dublina single to to Sligo, Killarney Ballina/Westport, is €68.50, a five-day Galway return and Waterford €72 – and It’s easy to travel between the Republic’s larger towns and checking if any special deals are available, especially via towns and villages to have just one or two bus services is higher on Fridays and Sundays. It’s always worth cities by public transport. However, it’s common for small in Northern Ireland is equally sparse in rural areas, with theThe website. North’s rail service is operated by Translink justper week,a few trainoften lines geared across toward the marketregion, thoughdays. Transport the bus (028/9066 6630, ) and the easiest way to explore rural and remote areas across http://www.translink.co.uk network is pretty comprehensive. Renting a car is perhaps restricted to just a few lines running out of Belfast. Services are generally efficient and the rolling stock onIreland, a bike, though though traffic you mayhas becomeneed to bringincreasingly your own heavy as on operatinghas been recently between updated. the Republic Fares and are thepretty North reasonable is the major routes. Picturesque areas are particularly enjoyable and often comparable with bus services. The only line rental outlets have dried in rural areas. If you want to Dublin–Belfast Enterprise service.

3 Visiting Ireland

Traveling by bus or car can allow you to enjoy the beautiful scenery while you travel.

By Bus Private bus companies also operate Jersey, South Africa, South Korea Bus Éireann (01/836 6111, http:// in the Republic, running services on or Switzerland) must acquire an ) runs express major routes, as well as areas not International Driving Permit, which coach and slower local services covered by the Bus Éireann network can be obtained from motoring www.buseireann.ie organizations before leaving for your prices are generally far more can sometimes be cheaper and reasonablethroughout thanthe Republic. trains and Ticket you can quicker(especially than County Bus Éireann, Donegal). but These are often snap up cheap deals, especially usually very busy at weekends, when tripThe tofundamental Ireland. rule of the road in Ireland, both North and South, and fares (including special deals) for thebetween major Dublin routes and can Cork.be found Timetables on the advanceIn Northern booking Ireland, is advisable. Ulsterbus, belts is compulsory for drivers and part of Translink, runs a pretty is to drive on the left. Wearing seat destinations in both Irish and English, comprehensive network of regular limits are 50–60km/h in built-up butwebsite. some The in rural majority areas of may buses only show and reliable services across the six areaspassengers. (though The in Republic’ssome parts speed of inner- city Dublin it’s 30km/h), 80km/h on provides unlimited travel around the rural roads (denoted by the letter “R” displayBus Éireann the former. offers two different bus- counties. Its Rambler ticket (£8) on maps and signposts), 100km/h only travel passes (for a combined on national roads (“N” roads) and networkBy car on Sundays. can be purchased in a variety of Travelling by car is the ideal way to combinations;bus–rail pass). threeThe Open days’ Road travel pass out explore at your leisure, especially are120km/h 20–40mph on motorways in built-up (“M” areas, roads). 70mphMaximum on speedsmotorways in Northern and 60mph Ireland on your own vehicle or renting one on of six costs €54, five out of ten is €84, arrival,in remote you’ll areas. need Whether to be in bringing possession the Republic usually provide place passten out covers of twenty travel €159 on services and fifteen in both namesmost other in both main Irish roads. and SignpostsEnglish, in theout Republicof thirty €234. and Northern The Irish Ireland Rover from any EU country is acceptable, except for in rural areas which will butof a visitorsvalid driving from license.outside Athe license EU travel out of eight, €190 for eight out (unless they possess a license issued distances are given in kilometres; in and costs €83.50 for three days’ have Irish only. In the Republic, of 15 and €280 for 15 out of 30. in Australia, the Isle of Man, Japan, the North distances are in miles. 4 Visiting Ireland Where to Stay and Belfast which provide high- ahead is advisable, especially in most budgets across Ireland from end “boutique” accommodations Dublin and Galway at all times, and swishYou’ll findcity accommodationshotels and luxurious to suit as well as the big chains such as elsewhere during high season, local converted castles to historic country more character are Ireland’s country need to book your accommodations houses,Sheraton mansions and Radisson. and castles Offering offering festivalsThere are and more holidays. than two hundred wellhouses, in advance B&Bs and over hostels. St Patrick’s You’ll sumptuous rooms in astonishingly independently run hostels across Day, Easter, summer public holidays, Ireland, many belonging to the breakers, these often also provide spa Holiday Hostels of Ireland association Accommodations are at a premium in scenic locations. Aimed at weekend ( Dublinand during throughout all of July the and year, August. especially com) or the Independent Hostel at weekends, and in places such as facilitiesAway from and the gourmet main tourist restaurants. areas, http://www.hostels-ireland. the Aran Islands, Belfast, Cork, Derry, Dingle, Galway city, Kilkenny and IHHOwners hostels organization are approved (http://www. by either Killarney, and during major festivals reductionsit’s still possible mid-week to find and real sometimes bargains. Fáilteindependenthostelsireland.com Ireland or the NITB, meaning). All Most hotels in the Republic offer that their facilities meet certain In the North, however, especially in elsewhere. Many establishments Belfastbusiness or rates Derry, if youyou’re look far the more part. likely also approved, but those that aren’t closeUnless over you’re the makingChristmas reservations period. standards. Some IHO hostels are direct, the easiest way to book Budget chains Jury’s Inn, Premier Inn accommodations is via an online andto get Travelodge a good deal also at thehave weekend. a growing sizes,usually as provide well as smallerequivalent private facilities. and agency such as Gulliver Ireland presence in the major cities and can familyMost hostels rooms, offer and dormsare open of year-varying ( offer very competitive deals if booked a non-refundable deposit of ten €20–35 for a dorm bed in Dublin, percenthttp://www.gulliver.ie is charged to your). Usually card and andround. around In high €15–25 season elsewhere; expect to payin inHostels advance. Northern Ireland you’ll usually pay Well-run, good-quality hostels can be accesseddeducted viafrom the the website price ofof yourthe two first found across all of Ireland, often in Irishnight’s tourist stay. Theboards system ( can also be £10–20.The republic also has a Youth Hostel and Association, An Óige ( http://www. lovely, off-the-beaten-track locations. discoverireland.ie http://www. Meals, bike rental and other facilities http://www. discovernorthernireland.comB&Bs and Guesthouses ). are also often provided. Booking anoige.ie) that may be useful to join. The overwhelming majority of B&Bs and guesthouses across Ireland are welcoming family homes and provide clean and cosy rooms, usually with board,en-suite but facilities. many other Most places B&Bs areopen theirregistered doors with during the local official festivals tourist or a guarantee of well-maintained standardshigh season. and Registration good service, is usually though non-registered places are not necessarilyHotels of lower quality. In most areas hotels are usually the most expensive option, particularly in cities such as Dublin, Galway Ballyseede Castle in County Kerry offers accomodations in a historic atmosphere.

5 Visiting Ireland

Dublin’s Ha’penny Bridge and Liffey River lights. Cliffs of Moher, County Clare. Distressed railway viaduct in Balleydehob, County Cork. Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.

Northern Ireland Where to Go Top 10 Places Dublin Much of Northern Ireland’s countryside is intensely beautiful and unspoiled, to Visit in Ireland though most of the major attractions lie around its fringes. To the north are the green Glens of Antrim and a coastline as scenic as anywhere in Ireland, with, Dublin is the Republic’s main entry-point, a confident capital whose raw, modern energy is complemented by rich as its centrepiece, the bizarre basalt geometry of the Giant’s Causeway. In the cultural traditions, and which boasts outstanding medieval monuments and the richly varied exhibits of the National southeast, Down offers the contrasting beauties of serene Strangford Lough and 1. Boyne Valley (Co. Meath) Gallery and National Museum. North of the city, the prehistoric tomb at Meath’s Newgrange is utterly mesmerizing and the brooding presence of the Mourne Mountains, while, to the west, Fermanagh 2. Ring of Kerry (Co. Kerry) southCounty of theClare city, the desolate Wicklow Mountains offer a breathtaking contrast to city life. The Burren has the peerless lake scenery of Lough Erne, a fabulous place for watersports, 3. Cliffs of Moher (Co. Clare) fishing and exploring island monastic remains. Evidence of the plantation is also 4. Giant’s Causeway (Co. Antrim) provided by planned towns and various grand mansions, often set in sprawling, If you arrive on the west coast at Shannon Airport in County Clare, Ireland’s 5. Aran Islands (Co. Galway) most spectacular landscapes lie within easy reach. Clare’s coastline itself rises landscaped grounds. 6. Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) to a head at the vertiginous Cliffs of Moher, while inland lies The Burren, a To get to grips with the North’s history, a visit to its cities is essential: Belfast, 7. Trinity College (Dublin) barren limestone plateau at odds with the lush greenery characteristic of much with its grand public buildings, was built on the profits of Victorian industry; of Ireland. To Clare’s south, Limerick’s Hunt Museum houses one of Ireland’s 8. The Burren (Co. Clare) County Kerry Derry has grown around the well-preserved walls of its medieval antecedent; most diverse and fascinating collections. and the cathedral town of Armagh is where St Patrick established Christianity 9. St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin) in Ireland. Further insights are provided by tremendous museums, including 10. Croke Park (Dublin) County Kerry, south of Limerick, features dazzling scenery, an intoxicating brew of invigorating seascapes, looming Derry’s Tower Museum and Down’s Ulster Folk and Transport Museum. mountains and sparkling lakes. Though the craggy coastline traversed by the Ring of Kerry is a major tourist attraction, West Coast Islands it’s still relatively easy to find seclusion. Fortress of Dun Aengus Dotted around the west coast are numerous islands, providing a glimpse of the harsh way of life endured by remote Irish-speaking communities. The Arans are the most famous – windswept expanses of limestone supporting extraordinary prehistoric sites including the fortress of Dun Aengus on Inishmore – but the savagely beautiful landscape of the Blasket Islands, off Kerry’s coast, is equally worthyCounty of Cork exploration.

On Ireland’s southern coast, Cork’s shoreline is punctuated by secluded estuaries, rolling headlands and historic harbours, while Cork city itself is the region’s hub, with a vibrant cultural scene and nightlife. To Cork’s east, Waterford city houses the wondrous Viking and medieval collections of Waterford Treasures, while, in Ireland’s southeastern Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. corner, Wexford’s seashore features broad estuaries teeming with bird life and expansive dune-backed beaches. Cork also features many stone circles and there are a multitude of tombs and ring forts across the west coast counties. 6 7 Visiting Ireland Restaurants, Irish Pubs & Markets

However the quality and choice on offer have improved markedly in the last Top 5 Traditional Few visitors come to Ireland just for the food (though plenty come to drink).

Irish Pubs twenty years. A new generation of small-scale artisan producers has emerged, It’sbe they well cheese-makers,worth looking out organic for Good farmers, Food fish-smokers Ireland signs or (or bakers, checking and out the http:// best Irish chefs seek out this local), a network produce of to high-quality recreate and restaurants, adapt traditional cafés, hotels,dishes. 1. The Brazen Head (Co. Dublin) producers and cookery schools, who are committed to using local, seasonal, www.goodfoodireland.ie 2. Johnny Fox’s (Co .Dublin) 3. The Spainiard (Co. Cork) artisanRestaurants ingredients wherever possible. 4. Garvey’s Bar (Co. Galway) The widest array of restaurants is concentrated in the big cities – where, alongside Dublin and Belfast, Cork has a particularly vibrant scene – and in 5. The Fishery Pub (Co. Kerry) gourmet hotspots such as Kinsale, Kenmare and Kilkenny, but good places

becan erratic be found and, all in over winter, the somecountry, establishments sometimes in in quite tourist unexpected areas close locales. down Off the beaten track, it’s usually worth phoning ahead, as opening hours can

restaurantsentirely. There’s offer no cheaper, getting simpler away from menus the atfact lunchtime, that dining and out plenty in Ireland also lay is on good-valueexpensive, particularly early-bird menus when youin the factor evening in the – twohigh or price three of courseswine, but for many a set fine

in small towns across the country, though sometimes takeaway only, the most widespreadprice, usually ethnic available restaurants until 7 or are 7:30pm, Chinese, though Indian often and notItalian, at weekends. followed by Found A traditional Irish stew.

Thai; reflecting recent immigration patterns, you’ll find Eastern European delis inPubs many and large Cafés towns and restaurants occasionally.

isMost often pubs based across around the countrya carvery, will serving be able slices to rustle of roast you meat, up a simplepotatoes sandwich and veg, asor welltoastie as andsandwiches a cup of andtea orsalads coffee, – which and many regularly offer featurea substantial crab and lunch. other This

fareseafood is also in coastalavailable areas in traditional – and hot staplesdaytime such cafés, as alongside Irish stew cakes and soups. and scones, An whichincreasing are now number augmented of Irish pubsin some now towns also serveby deli-cafés, meals in offering the evening. a more Similar

interestingMarkets array of food. If you fancy trying your hand at preparing a few dishes yourself, head for one of the country’s many food markets – virtually every sizeable town now hosts

affairs that are worth a visit in their own right – are the permanent English a farmers’ market, usually on a Saturday. The best markets – colourful, vibrant

A pint of Guinness, an Irish pub staple. Market in Cork city; the Temple Bar Food Market in Dublin, the Galway city market and the Midleton market in east Cork, all on Saturdays; and St George’s Market in Belfast, on Fridays and Saturdays. Irish Pub songs You Might Hear: “Whiskey in the Jar,” “The Wild Rover” and “Finnegans Wake”

8 Visiting Ireland Outdoor Activities

Old Head Links Golf Course in County Cork. Surfing off the County Derry coast in Northern Ireland. is one of the best ways to appreciate the quiet pleasures of operators are available on theIreland Irish is countryside, a great place while for getting walkers out can and take about. advantage Cycling of andinformation on all aspects of walking. Guided walking tour generally free access across much of the countryside and http://www.discoverireland.ie Horse-ridinghttp://www.discovernorthernireland.com and golf . and sheltered coastline to explore and some great beaches Horseriding, whether over the hills or along the fora number surfers, of there waymarked are many trails. opportunities With plenty for of watersports lakes, rivers beaches, is also a popular pastime, for both novices and experienced riders, who also have the option of multi-day , a comprehensive guide to outdoor enthusiasts, too. The North is covered by http://www. ( ) maintains standards among riding outdoorni.com trails rides. The Association of Irish Riding Establishments activitiesCycling and adventure sports. http://www.aire.ie Signposted cycling trails in the Republic include the Beara centres in the Republic and the North. Way and the Sheep’s Head Cycling Route in Cork, and Ulster Scots, attracts huge numbers of visitors every year; Golf, which was probably first brought to Irelandhttp:// by the documented and promoted: for detailed information on ), provides details of over four hundred clubs, the manyKerry routesWay. Trails here, in the the best North, places however, to start are are better http:// the Golfing Union of Ireland, based in Kildare ( and They www.gui.ie northFishing and and south, watersports with online booking. There are plenty of opportunities for sea angling and iewww.cycleni.com http://www.sustrans.org.uk. include the Kingfisher Trail (http://www.greenbox. cross-border routes include the recently signposted, For information, the best places to start are the tourist- ), which also stretches into Leitrim and Cavan. Other 326-kilometre North West Trail, mainly on quiet country boarddozens websites, of rivers and lakes for fly- and game-fishing. and

Houses of Irelandhttp://www.discoverireland.ie ( ) roadsWalking through and Donegal,mountain Tyrone, climbing Fermanagh and Leitrim. There are dozens of waymarked walking trails in the http://www.discovernorthernireland.com. Great Fishing Republic, ranging from routes through or around waterways and shelteredhttp://www.irelandflyfishing.com coasts – notably in west mountain ranges, such as the Wicklow Way, the Táin Trail, Cork,covers Dingle twenty and or Waterfordso specialist – alsohotels offer and canoeing B&Bs. Inland and the Slieve Bloom Way and the Western Way, to walks kayaking opportunities, ranging from day-trips and around entire peninsulas, like the Sheep’s Head Way, the Canoe Union’s website covers courses and clubs in the Way in the North, the oldest and longest waymarked Southtouring ( to rough- and white-water), while racing. the North The Irishhas a more walkingBeara Way, trail the in KerryIreland, Way has and recently the Dingle been Way.redeveloped The Ulster comprehensive website, , that as a 625-mile circuit of the whole province, taking in http://www.canoe.ie http://www.canoeni.com now divided into link sections, which can be skipped by includes canoe trails for multi-day touring. the Giant’s Causeway, the Sperrins and the Mournes; it’s taking public transport, and quality sections, and further There are some superb beaches for surfing (http://www. development is planned ( isasurf.ie) and its spin-offs, windsurfing (http://www. the North, has comprehensive windsurfingireland.net) and kite-surfing (http://www. http://www.walkireland.ie). In kitesurfing.ie). http://www.walkni.com 9 Map of Ireland & Description of Regions

East Coast & Midlands Counties Dublin, Kildare, Laois, Longford, Louth,

Meath,Northern Offaly, Ireland Westmeath, Wicklow.

Home nation of the United Kingdom. Seperate from theShannon Republic. Region

Counties Clare, Limerick and Tipperary. Often visitedSouthwest for its Irelandcastles and Cliffs of Moyer.

Counties Cork and Kerry. A scenic section with a beautifulWest Ireland coast. Features Blarney Castle.

Counties Galway, Mayo and Roscommon. Home to theNorthwest “Cultural Capital”Ireland Galway and Lakelands and the Aran Islands.

Counties Cavan, Donegal, Leitrim, Monaghan and Silgo.Southeast Natural Ireland beauty abounds.

Counties Carlow, Kilkenny, Waterford and Wexford. A cosmopolitan area, famous for Waterford crystal.

Content for this Guidebook gathered from: RoughGuides.com, TravelGrove.com, IrishCentral.com & WikiTravel.org