Dreams Come True in Donegal A Front Porch Travelogue Page 1 Introduction For those not familiar with the Front Porch Travelers, let me take a moment to introduce you. They are six senior citizens who have become very real over the past many years that they’ve been presenting the travelogue for Activity Connection. Couples Nell and Truman McGiver and Bert and Ethel Davis join sisters Mabel and Maude Gunderson in their virtual adventures around the world. Click here to learn more about the Front Porch Travelers. Page 2 The Front Porch Travelers have visited Ireland twice in the past, once in 2007 and then again in 2012. Since they love all things Irish, they decided to travel there again this month in order to cross off one of the wishes on Maude’s bucket list. She has always wanted to live in a lighthouse, and Fanad Head Lighthouse offers the opportunity to do just that. Pack up your bags and let’s see what shenanigans our curious travelers can get up to in Donegal, Ireland. Page 3 Historical Truman County Donegal is located in the far northwest corner of Ireland in the province of Ulster. The name Donegal is the English translation of the Irish Dún na nGall and literally means “Fort of the Foreigners.” Donegal’s tourism catchphrase, “Up here it’s different,” has proven to be well-founded. Page 4 Described by Lonely Planet as the “wild child of Ireland,” its isolation and untamed splendor makes visiting an unforgettable experience. A four-hour drive from Ireland’s capital city of Dublin, it has the longest coastline in Ireland along with sandy beaches, castles, cottages, lighthouses, heather-covered moors, charming people, and a rugged beauty that will take your breath away. Page 5 It was once the home of the mighty clan known by the English as the O’Donnell dynasty. One of the richest and most powerful of the native Irish families, they ruled the area that covered almost all of what is now County Donegal for centuries. In 1601, the O’Donnells of Tyrconnell and their cousins, the O’Neills of Tyrone, were defeated by the English at the Battle of Kinsale. Page 6 O’Donnell fled to Spain and died there several months later after allegedly being poisoned. O’Neill surrendered to the English, and, after having most of his land confiscated, returned to Ulster. In 1607 he left for Spain with family members and supporters in what is known as the “Flight of the Earls.” Page 7 The lands confiscated by the English Crown were given to Protestant settlers from Lowland Scotland. However, the land was of such poor quality that many of the settlers preferred to remain in eastern and central Ulster. In 1922, when the current border of the Irish Republic was established, the predominantly Catholic Donegal was separated from the rest of Ulster. Today, it remains connected to the Republic by just a narrow band of land. Page 8 The connection between Donegal and Scotland is strong and of long duration. Before the Flight of the Earls, Ireland and the Scottish Highlands were one region connected by a single language and culture. The poor farmers of Donegal, in order to pay the rent imposed by the English landlords, spent their summers laboring as migrant farmworkers in eastern Ulster and Lowland Scotland. Page 9 This practice continued well into the 20th century and forged a bond between Donegal and Scotland that still exists today. Though Donegal may have been financially impoverished, it is considered to be rich in culture. It is one of the last remaining strongholds of the Irish language, folklore, traditional customs, and unique musical traditions. Page 10 Discussion Starters • Truman’s ancestors were from Scotland. Do you know where your ancestors originated? • Donegal is known for being wild and remote. Does that kind of place appeal to you? • Have you visited Ireland? Would you like to? Page 11 Trivial Nell Donegal, for such a remote and isolated place, sure has a lot of interesting facts associated with it. Here’s what I learned: • Donegal’s nickname is “Ireland’s Forgotten County.” It’s one of the only counties of the Republic of Ireland once part of the ancient province of Ulster. Its remoteness is likely the reason it has been largely forgotten by the rest of Ireland and travelers alike. Page 12 • Donegal’s weather is dominated by the Gulf Stream and therefore temperate. The summers are cool and damp, while the winters are mild and wet. • Parts of Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens and Episode VIII: The Last Jedi were filmed at Malin Head in northern Donegal. Page 13 Lough Swilly (lough is pronounced lock) is one of Ireland’s three glacial fjords. Regarded as one of the most scenic places in the country, the area is best seen by boat. The Rathmullan House, nestled in the woods and overlooking the lough, is a wonderful place to stay. Page 14 • The most common surname in Donegal is Gallagher. Other common surnames are McDaid, O’Doherty, O’Donnell, and Gillespie. • Have you ever heard of Donegal tweed? Once the rage in the UK, it was known for its beauty and durability. Though traditional weavers are harder to find, there are still some working their handlooms throughout Donegal. Page 15 The popular hymn “Amazing Grace” has a connection to Donegal. It was written by John Newton, once a slave trader and all-around bad guy. In 1748, his ship was caught in a vicious storm off the coast of Donegal during a voyage from Africa to England. Newton called out to God for mercy, and miraculously he and his crew were saved after finding refuge in Lough Swilly. After his rescue, he became a changed man, renouncing slavery and pledging to live a godlier life, which included the writing of this hymn that endures today. Page 16 Donegal shares a strong musical tradition with the rest of Ireland. The pubs at night are alive with the sounds of local bands and good fellowship. Page 17 A name that stands out among the many notable musicians from the Donegal area is Enya. Born Patricia Brennan in Gweedore, she started performing with her family in their band known as Clannad. Now, simply known as Enya, she is one of the world’s best-selling artists. She lives a reclusive life in her castle in Dublin and has achieved great fame without ever embarking on a solo tour. Page 18 Donegal has its fair share of spooky stories and haunted places. One such place is Father Hegarty’s Rock along Lough Swilly. Legend has it that in 1632 a holy man was beheaded there by British troops. In the early 1990s, four boys were biking recklessly along the narrow pathway that had a 40-foot (12-meter) drop to the rocks below. Page 19 All of a sudden, a ghostly vision of a man on a white horse rose before them. They stopped dead in their tracks, avoiding an almost certain fall over the edge. The horse and rider vanished into thin air, and when the boys were finally able to talk about their experience, there was no doubt in their minds who had saved them that night. Page 20 Discussion Starters • Are you familiar with the hymn “Amazing Grace”? Let’s listen to it. • Do you believe in ghosts? Have you ever had a paranormal experience? If so, please describe it. Page 21 Traveling Man Bert Donegal is a place you want to be outdoors as much as possible. There are so many interesting places to walk, climb, ride a bike, or just sit and enjoy the scenery. Donegal is famous for its traditional music and offers so much to hear as well as see. Page 22 Leo’s Tavern is run by the brother of popular singer Enya and features the music of the family band Clannad. Page 23 A singer said to be favored by women of a certain age across the UK and Ireland is Donegal-born Daniel O’Donnell. His music, a combination of traditional Irish music and country, got Nell up and dancing. However, as we know, Nell will take any opportunity to dance. We did insist she not try the Irish jig, as that was sure to end in disaster. Here are some of the highlights from our visit: Page 24 Tory Island off the coast of Donegal came complete with its own king. The last “royal” Patsy Dan Rogers, a painter, died in 2018. He did not have any real power, and his primary duty was to serve as Tory’s spokesperson. The most remote of Ireland’s inhabited islands, Tory is just three miles (4.8 km) long and a half-mile (0.8 km) wide, with a population of under 200 people. Page 25 Donegal Castle located in Donegal Town is a 15th-century castle built in 1505 by the O’Donnell clan, who were the ruling Gaelic chieftains until the Flight of the Earls in 1607. While the castle was fully restored in 1996, among its surviving original features are the stone floor and walls on ground level. Donegal Castle is located in the heart of quaint and picturesque Donegal Town and the nearby Donegal Bay, home to a seal colony, cormorants, and cranes. Page 26 The Slieve League Cliffs are the highest sea cliffs in Europe. The view is spectacular, especially in the evening when the last of the sunlight is reflected in the Atlantic Ocean. Page 27 Rossnowlagh Beach is also known as “Heavenly Cove.” It is one of the top surfing beaches in Europe.