Dreams Come True in Donegal A Front Porch Travelogue
Page 1 Introduction
For those not familiar with the Front Porch Travelers, let me take a moment to introduce you. They are six senior citizens who have become very real over the past many years that they’ve been presenting the travelogue for Activity Connection. Couples Nell and Truman McGiver and Bert and Ethel Davis join sisters Mabel and Maude Gunderson in their virtual adventures around the world. Click here to learn more about the Front Porch Travelers.
Page 2 The Front Porch Travelers have visited Ireland twice in the past, once in 2007 and then again in 2012. Since they love all things Irish, they decided to travel there again this month in order to cross off one of the wishes on Maude’s bucket list. She has always wanted to live in a lighthouse, and Fanad Head Lighthouse offers the opportunity to do just that. Pack up your bags and let’s see what shenanigans our curious travelers can get up to in Donegal, Ireland.
Page 3 Historical Truman County Donegal is located in the far northwest corner of Ireland in the province of Ulster. The name Donegal is the English translation of the Irish Dún na nGall and literally means “Fort of the Foreigners.” Donegal’s tourism catchphrase, “Up here it’s different,” has proven to be well-founded.
Page 4 Described by Lonely Planet as the “wild child of Ireland,” its isolation and untamed splendor makes visiting an unforgettable experience. A four-hour drive from Ireland’s capital city of Dublin, it has the longest coastline in Ireland along with sandy beaches, castles, cottages, lighthouses, heather-covered moors, charming people, and a rugged beauty that will take your breath away.
Page 5 It was once the home of the mighty clan known by the English as the O’Donnell dynasty. One of the richest and most powerful of the native Irish families, they ruled the area that covered almost all of what is now County Donegal for centuries. In 1601, the O’Donnells of Tyrconnell and their cousins, the O’Neills of Tyrone, were defeated by the English at the Battle of Kinsale.
Page 6 O’Donnell fled to Spain and died there several months later after allegedly being poisoned. O’Neill surrendered to the English, and, after having most of his land confiscated, returned to Ulster. In 1607 he left for Spain with family members and supporters in what is known as the “Flight of the Earls.”
Page 7 The lands confiscated by the English Crown were given to Protestant settlers from Lowland Scotland. However, the land was of such poor quality that many of the settlers preferred to remain in eastern and central Ulster. In 1922, when the current border of the Irish Republic was established, the predominantly Catholic Donegal was separated from the rest of Ulster. Today, it remains connected to the Republic by just a narrow band of land.
Page 8 The connection between Donegal and Scotland is strong and of long duration. Before the Flight of the Earls, Ireland and the Scottish Highlands were one region connected by a single language and culture. The poor farmers of Donegal, in order to pay the rent imposed by the English landlords, spent their summers laboring as migrant farmworkers in eastern Ulster and Lowland Scotland.
Page 9 This practice continued well into the 20th century and forged a bond between Donegal and Scotland that still exists today. Though Donegal may have been financially impoverished, it is considered to be rich in culture. It is one of the last remaining strongholds of the Irish language, folklore, traditional customs, and unique musical traditions.
Page 10 Discussion Starters • Truman’s ancestors were from Scotland. Do you know where your ancestors originated? • Donegal is known for being wild and remote. Does that kind of place appeal to you? • Have you visited Ireland? Would you like to?
Page 11 Trivial Nell Donegal, for such a remote and isolated place, sure has a lot of interesting facts associated with it. Here’s what I learned:
• Donegal’s nickname is “Ireland’s Forgotten County.” It’s one of the only counties of the Republic of Ireland once part of the ancient province of Ulster. Its remoteness is likely the reason it has been largely forgotten by the rest of Ireland and travelers alike.
Page 12 • Donegal’s weather is dominated by the Gulf Stream and therefore temperate. The summers are cool and damp, while the winters are mild and wet. • Parts of Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens and Episode VIII: The Last Jedi were filmed at Malin Head in northern Donegal.
Page 13 Lough Swilly (lough is pronounced lock) is one of Ireland’s three glacial fjords. Regarded as one of the most scenic places in the country, the area is best seen by boat. The Rathmullan House, nestled in the woods and overlooking the lough, is a wonderful place to stay.
Page 14 • The most common surname in Donegal is Gallagher. Other common surnames are McDaid, O’Doherty, O’Donnell, and Gillespie.
• Have you ever heard of Donegal tweed? Once the rage in the UK, it was known for its beauty and durability. Though traditional weavers are harder to find, there are still some working their handlooms throughout Donegal.
Page 15 The popular hymn “Amazing Grace” has a connection to Donegal. It was written by John Newton, once a slave trader and all-around bad guy. In 1748, his ship was caught in a vicious storm off the coast of Donegal during a voyage from Africa to England. Newton called out to God for mercy, and miraculously he and his crew were saved after finding refuge in Lough Swilly. After his rescue, he became a changed man, renouncing slavery and pledging to live a godlier life, which included the writing of this hymn that endures today.
Page 16 Donegal shares a strong musical tradition with the rest of Ireland. The pubs at night are alive with the sounds of local bands and good fellowship.
Page 17 A name that stands out among the many notable musicians from the Donegal area is Enya. Born Patricia Brennan in Gweedore, she started performing with her family in their band known as Clannad. Now, simply known as Enya, she is one of the world’s best-selling artists. She lives a reclusive life in her castle in Dublin and has achieved great fame without ever embarking on a solo tour.
Page 18 Donegal has its fair share of spooky stories and haunted places. One such place is Father Hegarty’s Rock along Lough Swilly. Legend has it that in 1632 a holy man was beheaded there by British troops. In the early 1990s, four boys were biking recklessly along the narrow pathway that had a 40-foot (12-meter) drop to the rocks below.
Page 19 All of a sudden, a ghostly vision of a man on a white horse rose before them. They stopped dead in their tracks, avoiding an almost certain fall over the edge. The horse and rider vanished into thin air, and when the boys were finally able to talk about their experience, there was no doubt in their minds who had saved them that night.
Page 20 Discussion Starters • Are you familiar with the hymn “Amazing Grace”? Let’s listen to it. • Do you believe in ghosts? Have you ever had a paranormal experience? If so, please describe it.
Page 21 Traveling Man Bert
Donegal is a place you want to be outdoors as much as possible. There are so many interesting places to walk, climb, ride a bike, or just sit and enjoy the scenery. Donegal is famous for its traditional music and offers so much to hear as well as see.
Page 22 Leo’s Tavern is run by the brother of popular singer Enya and features the music of the family band Clannad.
Page 23 A singer said to be favored by women of a certain age across the UK and Ireland is Donegal-born Daniel O’Donnell. His music, a combination of traditional Irish music and country, got Nell up and dancing. However, as we know, Nell will take any opportunity to dance. We did insist she not try the Irish jig, as that was sure to end in disaster. Here are some of the highlights from our visit:
Page 24 Tory Island off the coast of Donegal came complete with its own king. The last “royal” Patsy Dan Rogers, a painter, died in 2018. He did not have any real power, and his primary duty was to serve as Tory’s spokesperson. The most remote of Ireland’s inhabited islands, Tory is just three miles (4.8 km) long and a half-mile (0.8 km) wide, with a population of under 200 people.
Page 25 Donegal Castle located in Donegal Town is a 15th-century castle built in 1505 by the O’Donnell clan, who were the ruling Gaelic chieftains until the Flight of the Earls in 1607. While the castle was fully restored in 1996, among its surviving original features are the stone floor and walls on ground level. Donegal Castle is located in the heart of quaint and picturesque Donegal Town and the nearby Donegal Bay, home to a seal colony, cormorants, and cranes.
Page 26 The Slieve League Cliffs are the highest sea cliffs in Europe. The view is spectacular, especially in the evening when the last of the sunlight is reflected in the Atlantic Ocean.
Page 27 Rossnowlagh Beach is also known as “Heavenly Cove.” It is one of the top surfing beaches in Europe. Surfers delight in the challenge of the towering waves. They were fascinating to watch.
Page 28 Doon Fort is situated on a small island in the middle of Loughadoon just outside the charming village of Ardara. The fort was thought to be the residence of the O’Boyle chieftains. Restoration work began on the fort in 1954, and efforts continue today.
Page 29 Doe Castle was built in the 1420s and is nestled in the inlet of Sheephaven Bay. It served as the home and the refuge of at least 13 of the MacSweeney chieftains. It remained occupied until 1905 but has been empty since then. The striking castle with its white tower is well-preserved and a favorite of tourists.
Page 30 Letterkenny is the largest town in the county and home to hundreds of high-end shops, including a number of international fashion boutiques. Needless to say, the Front Porch ladies were in heaven, and Truman and I were hard-pressed to get them to leave. Fortunately, there were a number of pubs and restaurants for the two of us to escape to.
Page 31 The “Wild Atlantic Way” is about 1,553 miles (2,500 km) long. This driving route along the spectacular west coast of Ireland begins on the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal and ends in the town of Kinsale in County Cork. The twisting, turning roads are sometimes single lanes with sheer drops to the Atlantic Ocean below. You could also walk the entire route if you were so inclined, as there are wonderful places to stay and eat along the way.
Page 32 Discussion Starters • Of the places described by Bert, is there any you would most like to see? • Like Nell, do you enjoy dancing? What kind of dancing do you most enjoy? Would you say you are a good dancer or, do you, perhaps, have two left feet like Truman and Bert? • Do you recall the longest distance you have ever walked? If so, describe the experience.
Page 33 Fanad Head Lightkeeper Maude
When I was a young girl, after reading my father’s book The Lighthouse at the End of the World by Jules Verne, I dreamt of being a lighthouse keeper. When I confessed my desire to my parents, they were quite perplexed, having thought I would end up on stage given my love for stirring up drama. Also, I remember getting in trouble with them because they deemed the book, with its tale of murder and piracy, to be unfit for a girl of my tender years. Now, it seems, all these many years later, I’m going to get to spend some time in an actual lighthouse.
Page 34 The Fanad Head Lighthouse was proposed following the 1811 shipwreck of the HMS Saldanha in the treacherous waters of Lough Swilly. The only survivor of the wreck was the captain’s parrot, identified by a silver collar inscribed with the name of the ship. Designed by civil engineer George Halpin, the beacon at Fanan Head was lit for the first time on March 17, 1817. Its light was fixed with red showing toward the sea and white toward the lough. It could be seen in clear weather for 14 miles (22 km). In 1975, it was converted to electric and in 1983 was fully automated.
Page 35 In 1917, tragedy struck again when the British naval ship the SS Laurentic hit two mines and sank near the entrance to Lough Swilly. Over 300 lives were lost along with the secret cargo of 3,211 gold bars. There are reportedly 22 gold bars still missing, and adventurous souls are free to dive to the wreckage to try their luck finding them.
Page 36 Originally, the lighthouse was staffed with a principal keeper and an assistant keeper. They lived there with their families, and their children attended the Ballymichael School about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) away. In winter, there was a third lightkeeper who had temporary lodging in the back of the lighthouse. By 1978, only the principal keeper remained, and in 1983, there was only a need for a part-time attendant.
Page 37 The Fanad Head Lighthouse, known as one of the most beautiful in the world, is located between Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay on the eastern shore of the Fanad Peninsula in Donegal County.
Page 38 The area is remote, rugged, and breathtakingly beautiful. There are three cozy lightkeeper’s cottages where guests (and their pets) can stay. They can watch the light’s beam sweep out across the water as they go to bed at night and wake up in the morning to the sound of seabirds and waves. Tours of the still working lighthouse are available and quite informative. I must say, in this case, the reality was just as good as my dream!
Page 39 Discussion Starters • Have you visited a lighthouse? If so, can you describe the experience? • When you were growing up, what did you dream of being? Did that dream come true? • Have you read any of Jules Verne’s books? If so, what is your opinion of them?
Page 40 Queen of the Castle Mabel
Whereas Maude dreamt of being a lighthouse keeper, I dreamt about being a beloved queen who lived in a castle and ruled her loyal subjects with kindness and wisdom. There are a good number of castles in Ireland, but Glenveagh, with its interesting history, particularly intrigues me.
Page 41 In the heart of Donegal on the shores of Lough Beagh, sits a castle within a beautiful national park. Its construction began in 1867 and was completed in 1873, making it one of the newest castles in Ireland. It was the home of a wealthy land speculator by the name of John George Adair, who came to be known as one of Ireland’s most reviled landlords. Today, the castle and its stunning gardens and grounds are open to the public.
Page 42 Surprisingly John Adair’s story has roots in America. After making his fortune in Ireland buying properties of those bankrupted from the Irish famine, he established a brokerage firm in New York City. He first traveled to America in 1866 in order to establish British loans in America, where they could earn higher interest rates.
Page 43 It was there that the 46-year-old Adair met Cornelia Ritchie, a 32-year-old widow with two children. They married in 1867 and divided their time between New York and Ireland.
Page 44 Adair, by all accounts, was not an easy man to get along with, and before long, there was a mutual dislike between him and the people of New York. It was suggested he might be happier out west, and so he traveled to Denver, Colorado, to establish an office for his firm.
Page 45 There he met Charles Goodnight, a former confederate colonel. Goodnight was looking for someone to help finance the expansion of a cattle ranch into unclaimed land in the Texas Panhandle. Adair refused to invest in anything he hadn’t seen. He and Goodnight, along with their wives, set off for the Palo Duro Canyon.
Page 46 The 12-day journey was not without adventure, as a gang of outlaws heard about the trip and set out to kidnap the Adairs for ransom. Goodnight got word of their plan and persuaded a group of U.S. cavalry to serve as escorts, thus preventing an attack.
Page 47 Adair, true to form, managed to alienate almost everyone who accompanied them except for perhaps Cornelia, who reportedly blossomed during the journey. She chose the location for what would be known as the JA Ranch and was regarded as its true founder. Adair owned two-thirds of the ranch, which was managed by Goodnight. He made a substantial profit on his investment.
Page 48 When he returned to Ireland, he began to build his castle, which he patterned off of Balmoral Castle, the Scottish retreat of Britain’s royal family.
Page 49 He earned a place in infamy with his 1861 eviction of the 244 tenants (159 of them children) living on the land he had previously purchased for his estate. He had their homes destroyed so they would have nowhere to return. A number ended up in the poorhouse, and others emigrated to Australia. Known as “Black Jack” Adair, he was universally hated in Donegal.
Page 50 Adair planted palatial gardens and began working on his dream of creating a hunting estate. However, he did not have time to fully enjoy it. Upon returning from a trip to the JA Ranch, he died suddenly while en route in Missouri. Cornelia inherited the castle and spent the next 30 years improving it.
Page 51 Unlike her husband, she remained popular with her tenants. After she died in London in 1921, Glenveagh fell into a decline. In 1929, it was purchased by American Arthur Kingsley Porter, a professor at Harvard University. He mysteriously disappeared in 1933, and his body was never found. He was presumed to have drowned, but sightings of him have been reported from many locations around the world for years after his death.
Page 52 In 1937, Henry Mcllhenny of Philadelphia bought the estate. In 1983, he bestowed the castle and its grounds as a gift to the Irish people.
Page 53 Discussion Starters
• Have you known someone as unpleasant as Adair was reported to be? If so, did you have any ways to best deal with them? • Would you have liked to experience the west when it was still largely uninhabited and wild? Do you think you would have liked the life of an early settler? • If you were king or queen of a castle, what kind of ruler would you want to be?
Page 54 Dining Ethel
Spending time at a local Irish pub is an experience not to be missed. The laid-back atmosphere, comradery, laughter, singing, and perhaps dart playing makes for a really fun time. The national drink of Ireland is Guinness stout beer, and, contrary to rumors about drinking warm beer, it is often served cold poured into a glass that’s room temperature.
Page 55 Irish stew is the food that most often comes to mind when thinking of Ireland. This hearty dish of mutton (more often now lamb), potatoes, onions, and sometimes carrots is considered the national dish of Ireland. It’s flavorful, filling, and totally satisfying.
Page 56 Here are some other Irish foods to enjoy:
Boxty pancakes – This traditional Irish potato pancake is made by mixing together cooked mashed potato, grated raw potato, flour, and milk to form a batter. Shaped like a pancake, it is then slow-cooked until golden brown. The pancakes can be eaten alone with butter or sugar, or served with a full Irish breakfast of bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, black pudding, and tomato slices.
Page 57 Coddle – This favorite is made with leftovers such as bacon, sausage, potatoes, and onions. Slow cooked in a broth until rich and delicious, it’s perfect for warming up on a cold winter day.
Page 58 Colcannon – This is the Irish version of the British favorite bubble ’n’ squeak. Its ingredients include mashed potato with cabbage or kale, but there are a number of variations. It’s often a part of St. Patrick’s Day celebrations.
Page 59 Black and White Pudding –This breakfast staple is a type of sausage. Black pudding has blood as an ingredient (usually from pork) along with meat, fat, oatmeal, and bread or potato fillers. The blood is not something you can taste but, if the thought makes you squeamish, there’s white pudding, which has all the same ingredients except for the blood.
Page 60 Seafood, mussels, and cockles – Ireland has some of the best seafood in the world. Its seafood chowder is a flavorful dish filled with seafood such as prawns, salmon, haddock, and white fish. Other ingredients include milk, cream, and vegetables such as onions, potatoes, carrots, and garlic. It can be enjoyed both in summer and winter. Donegal is also known for its fish-and-chips shops.
Page 61 Irish Soda Bread – Made with flour, baking soda, salt, and soured milk, this bread has a crispy crust and a spongy, tender center.
Page 62 Barmbrack – A richly fruited bread, it is best eaten with lots of butter and accompanied by a pot of tea. Traditionally, it was baked with a ring or cloth inside. Whoever got the slice with the ring would marry, and whoever got the piece of cloth would become a nun. It is enjoyed as a special treat on Halloween.
Page 63 Irish Coffee – What makes a hot cup of coffee even better? The answer would be a shot of Irish whiskey, two teaspoons of brown sugar, and a topping of slightly whipped double cream.
Page 64 If you have determined that potatoes are a common ingredient in Irish cuisine, you are right on the money. Potatoes were once vitally important, especially for the Irish poor and especially during winter. Because of British rule, the majority of Irish farmers, nearly 65%, were forced to eke out a living on 1–15 acres of land. The only crop that could support hungry mouths on such a small piece of land was potatoes.
Page 65 While not originally a popular food, poverty pushed the Irish to find ways to make the root vegetable edible. They were easy to grow, hardy, and if eaten in large enough quantities and combined with milk, surprisingly nutritious. Prior to the time of Ireland’s Great Famine (1845– 1851), nearly half of Ireland’s population relied almost exclusively on potatoes as a food staple, and the other half consumed potatoes on a frequent basis.
Page 66 The blight that wiped out the potato crop caused mass starvation and disease. People were too sick and weak to fish, and animals normally consumed for food were dying of starvation, too. During the famine, nearly one million people died, and an estimated two million emigrated to other countries. During the 1840s, almost half of all the immigrants coming to the United States were from Ireland.
Page 67 Today, the Irish consume more potatoes than most people in the world, but there is not the reliance on them there once was. Soups, seafood, and meats (especially lamb) are also important parts of Irish cuisine.
Page 68 Discussion Starters • Of the foods described by Ethel, are there any you would most want to try? Are there any you would not? • Would you like to spend time in an Irish pub? What do you think you would most like about it? • Do you know if any of your ancestors immigrated from Ireland during the time of the Great Famine?
Page 69 We hope you enjoyed sharing our dreams in Donegal. We’ll see you next month for another fun destination.
Page 70 The End
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