BASIC SAN FERMÍN FESTIVAL GUIDE 1 INDEX SAN FERMÍN 2016 DOSSIER San Fermín The Chupinazo The Encierro The Bullfights The fiesta on the streets The ‘fiesta’ on the trail of Hemingway Sanfermines on equal terms The image of the fiestas in the media Inclusive Sanfermines Pobre de mí Sanfermines in figures Useful telephone numbers 5 WALKS AROUND Pamplona, fortified city Pamplona, green city Pamplona, city of the Way of Saint James Pamplona, city of flavours Pamplona, city of culture 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA Text, edition and publication: The Pyrenees The Pamplona Town Council and Journey to the centre of a natural paradise the Regional Government of . Nature and sport Landscapes to enjoy the tarmac Design, illustrations and layout: Birding Navarra: getting to know the birds Artworks Comunicación. MICE tourism Navarra cinema route National Book Catalogue Number: Castle and fortress route DL NA 1298-2016. Among vines and vineyards The witchcraft route SAN FERMÍN 2016 DOSSIER

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ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE SAN FERMÍN FIESTAS FROM 6 TO 14 JULY, PAMPLONA DRESSES UP IN RED AND WHITE TO In the Middle Ages a fair was already CELEBRATE 9 DAYS OF FIESTA DEDICATED TO SAN FERMÍN, WHO HAS BEEN being held on 10 October to celebrate the arrival of San Fermín in , with THE CO-PATRON SAINT OF NAVARRE ALONG WITH SAN FRANCISCO JAVIER SINCE religious ceremonies to honour the Saint 1657. ACCORDING TO THE LEGEND, THE SAINT WAS BEHEADED, AND FOR THIS and a copious banquet for the poor of the REASON A RED NECKERCHIEF IS WORN AROUND THE NECK DURING THE NINE city. Other events were gradually added to DAYS OF THE FESTIVAL. the fiesta such as comedies, music, troubadours, drummers and dances during the procession. The fiesta we know today started to take shape in the 16th century.

In 1591, the City Government, transferred the celebrations to 7th July to avoid the bad weather in autumn, which coincided with a secular trade fair on the same date that On his travels through Aquitaine, attracted a large number of traders and Auvergne, Anjou and Amiens, he worked a buyers, along with organised fights. number of miracles: he restored the vision to a blind person, he cured lepers, the In the 20th century, developments in the paralysed and the possessed. The Roman media, transport and tourism began to governor, Sebastián, in an attempt to create a massive influx of people arriving at restore faith in the cults of Jupiter and Pamplona to take part in the fiestas. The Vespers Mercury, ordered Fermín to be imprisoned American writer , winner and finally beheaded with a sword on 25 of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1954, The vespers sung to honour the Saint are September. In remembrance of his played a major part in popularising the the first religious act of the fiestas. They martyrdom, the people of Pamplona wear fiesta by using it as the setting for his novel are held on the 6th, at 20:00, in the a red neckerchief around their necks ‘’ (‘Fiesta’) in 1924. chapel of San Fermín. The municipal during the fiestas. corporation attends dressed especially dressed for the event: the men in evening The remains of San Fermín rest in the RELIGIOUS dress, gloves and top hat, the women in cathedral of Amiens and veneration of the traditional dresses based on garments WHO IS SAN FERMÍN saint did not reach Pamplona until the EVENTS worn in the valleys of Roncal, Salazar and 12th century. Pilgrims travelling the Way of Aézcoa. Legend has it that Fermín was the son of Saint James from Amiens brought the The people of Pamplona maintain the cult Firmus, a senator of the Roman city of news that a saint from Pamplona was of San Fermín with three large Pompaelo, or present day Pamplona, in worshipped in their city. A number of ceremonies: vespers, the procession and Procession the 3rd century. Firmus entrusted his son’s were sent to Pamplona, the most the octava. The procession is the only time education to a Christian priest, Honestus, famous of which were brought by bishop of the year when the image of the Saint is The procession is perhaps one of the who converted the entire family to Pedro de París and which are still carried in the streets and locals pay longest standing traditions of the Christianity. Fermín then went to to conserved in the Cathedral of Pamplona special homage to the image at the stops Sanfermines, as its origins date back to convert the Gauls and at the age of 24 and in the image of the Saint of the it makes along the route. the 12th century, when Pedro de París, was consecrated as a bishop in Toulouse. church of San Lorenzo. also known as Pedro de Artaxona, was

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Route: the streets of: San Lorenzo Calceteros

Rincón de la Aduana Plaza Consistorial

San Antón San Saturnino

Zapatería 8 Mayor

bishop of the city. The mayor and city holds the mass, after which the City councillors, dressed in the same manner as Corporation accompanies the Chapter for the vespers, leave the Town Hall and go once again to the cathedral. There the to the Cathedral to meet with the Chapter, gigantes dance in the atrium of the who are responsible for presiding over the Cathedral to the sound of flutes and procession of the Saint. Together they go to bagpipes, while church bells, bugles and the church of San Lorenzo to take the La Pamplonesa municipal band play. The image of San Fermín and commence the second largest bell in (the “Maria”, procession through the streets for weighing 12,000 kilos and made in approximately an hour and a half. 1584) is a notable feature of this performance. The Corporation then returns They are accompanied by the wood and to the City Hall to the song ‘Asombro de papier mache figures of the Gigantes y Damasco’ y and the dancers make their Cabezudos, clarinettists, wardens, farewell with one final dance in the Plaza txistularis, dantzaris, timbaleros, Consistorial. representatives of historical guilds, the Hermandad de la Pasión and the Octava Congregación Mariana. The procession ends with a performance by the La This mass in honour of the Saint, held on Pamplonesa municipal band. The most the 14th at 10:45 h. in the chapel of San moving aspect of the procession are the Fermín, has been celebrated since 1689 pauses made along the route. These are and is the last religious act of the official called the ‘momenticos’, stops when the festival programme. The Corporation goes opportunity is taken to pay special homage to the chapel, accompanied by the to the saint. Gigantes y Cabezudos, the municipal guard and La Pamplonesa municipal After the return of the procession to the band. After the mass they return to the church of San Lorenzo, the archbishop City Hall.

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Caballer fireworks company, which makes His merits include being member number the rocket. The people below, while they 1 of the local social club, Los de Bronce wait, chant ‘San Fermín!, San Fermín!, (since 1950) and being president of the ¡San Fermín!’, and raise their red club in the 70s. He was also the one to THE CHUPINAZO neckerchiefs on high, which they then tie start the song to San Fermín every to their necks when the fiesta commences. morning before the bullfight. On 10 July of a year that he still keeps a secret, with THE FIESTAS OF SAN FERMÍN START ON 6 JULY AT 12 NOON WITH THE CHUPINAZO, Buglers announce the moment and after from Villamarta, along with another A ROCKET ANNOUNCING THE START OF FESTIVITIES LAUNCHED FROM THE MAIN the traditional bilingual greeting in Spanish local friend, he kneeled before the corrals, and Basque, and with some variations not in front of the niche, which did not BALCONY OF THE CITY HALL. MORE THAN 12,500 PEOPLE PACK INTO 2,502 SQUARE according to the person launching the exist then, and began to sing ‘a San METRES TO PARTICIPATE IN THIS EVENT. WITH THE CHUPINAZO THE FESTIVITIES rocket, the elected individual proclaims the Fermín pedimos’. COMMENCE AND LOCALS PUT ON THE RED NECKERCHIEF. traditional: ‘Pamploneses, pamplonesas. ¡Viva San Fermín! ¡Gora San Fermín!’ At 85 years of age, ‘El Tuli’ actively (“men of Pamplona, women of Pamplona, participates in El Bronce throughout the long live San , long live San year with the same enthusiasm as he did THE HISTORY BEHIND the chupinazo was given to someone Fermin!”). on the first day, helping one and all to appointed by the city mayor and the generate the spirit of the fiestas of San THE CHUPINAZO person usually selected was a town The opening event of the fiestas can also Fermin without putting his own personal councillor or representative of an be followed from areas nearby the plaza pleasure as a member of the association The chupinazo is the rocket launched to organisation recognised by the city. and, with less of a crush, from other parts to one side. He represents a generation announce the fiestas, which sets off 204 of the city via giant screens placed by the that popularised the fiestas with simplicity hours of uninterrupted festivities, from 6 The chupinazo is a relatively recent event. City Government in Paseo Sarasate, Plaza and creativity during a hard and difficult July at 12 noon to 14 July at 12 midnight. The first was launched in 1941 after a de los Fueros and Parque de Antoniutti. period. Thanks to his constant wish to The start of the fiestas is one of the most proposal to do so was made by the deputy have fun and enable others to do the iconic and popular events in the mayor Joaquín Ilundáin and the journalist same, people from all over the world were programme. The person responsible for José María Salazar. However, and THE PERSON attracted to a fiesta that was not yet in the launching it is a well-known local figure or according to local legend, it was Juan media limelight, but which was already representative of an organisation that is Etxepare, the owner of a tobacco shop in RESPONSIBLE FOR making its mark. He participates in the all important to Pamplona, who is proposed the Calle Mayor, who was the first to the street events organised by El Bronce, by citizens’ associations and elected by request and obtain permission from the LAUNCHING THE he goes every day to the bullfights and popular vote by the people of Pamplona. City Government of Pamplona in 1931 to continues to go to the Dianas. He is a This election process was established this launch rockets at 12 noon on 6 July in the CHUPINAZO THIS member of the Corte de San Fermín. year, as up to now the honour of launching street, surrounded by youngsters. YEAR Nowadays, more than 12,500 people come together in the Plaza del The person responsible for launching the Ayuntamiento (which measures 2,502 chupinazo this year is the local resident, square metres) to listen to the inaugural Jesús Ilundáin Zaragüeta, also known as speech and wait for the rocket to be ‘El Tuli’. His name was put forward by the launched. Asociación Cultural Gigantes de Pamplona and the Asociación de Empresarios de Comercio Hostelería y Servicios del WHAT HAPPENS Ensanche of the city. ‘El Tuli’ was selected from amongst a total of 6 candidates by Three minutes after noon, the person popular vote of all the citizens, who responsible for lighting the fuse goes onto supported him with 40.3% of the 9,830 the balcony accompanied by a municipal votes issued, in the urns and on the representative and a manager of the Internet.

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THE SONG The runners ask for protection from San then, and started to sing ‘a San Fermín THE ENCIERRO Fermín during the run at 07:55, 07:57 pedimos’. and 07:59 at the niche of the saint, at the slope of Santo Domingo. At 08:00 the first rocket is launched, 8 IN THE MORNING. 6 BULLS. 848.6 METROS. THE ENCIERRO IS A FAST, VIOLENT which indicates that the corral doors of AND TENSE RACE. IN JUST A FEW MINUTES, PEOPLE AND BULLS FACE EACH This tradition commenced in the Santo Domingo, where the bulls and oxen Sanfermines of 1962, and was started by are kept, have been opened. A second OTHER IN A BATTLE TO REACH THE BULL RING. THEY ARE THE MAIN FEATURE Jesús Ilundáin Zaragüeta ‘El Tuli’, an 85 rocket is launched to announce that the BUT HERDERS, CARPENTERS, POLICE AND EMERGENCY SERVICES year old local resident of the city and bulls have left the corrals, moved on by ENSURE THAT THE ENCIERRO, WHICH IS MORE CROWDED WITH EVERY YEAR member number 1 of the Los de Bronce the herders. THAT PASSES, GOES BY WITHOUT PROBLEMS. social club. On a 10 July, with bulls from Villamarta, along with another local The route of the encierro is divided into friend, they knelt before the corrals, not different sections, each one with its own before the niche, which did not exist peculiarities and characteristics. June 1876. Since 1922, the year when THE HISTORY BEHIND the current Bull Ring was opened, the THE ENCIERRO encierro passes along the current route. If one thing symbolises the fiestas of San WHAT HAPPENS Fermín it is the encierro. It basically consists of running before the bulls in a The encierro is held at 8:00 every morning suitably fenced-off street. The aim of the from 7 to 14 July. To run, its is necessary encierro is to transfer the bulls from the to be in the route before 07:30, between corrals of Santo Domingo to the Bull Ring, the slope of Santo Domingo and the Plaza where the bullfights are held in the del Ayuntamiento. Before the encierro afternoon. starts, the custom is for the runners, with a newspaper in their hand, to ask San En total, six fighting bulls and two groups Fermín for protection. They do this 3 of oxen to guide them run through the times before the niche, decorated with a streets. The second herd makes the run a panel covered with the kerchiefs of the few minutes later to collect any bulls that peñas, or social clubs, located on the might have stayed behind. The route goes slope of Santo Domingo. through different streets of the Old Quarter of the city and measures 848.6 metres.

When it commenced in the 14th century the encierro did not form part of the fiesta calendar, but arose from the need to transfer the bulls from outside the city walls to the ring, so they could be fought in the bullfights held in the afternoon. The custom of young men to participate in the gradually become the most important event of the fiestas of San Fermín. The encierro was approved on 28

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ROUTE

Slope of Santo Domingo Curva de Telefónica

Plaza Consistorial-Mercaderes Callejón

Curve of Mercaderes Plaza de Toros

Calle Estafeta

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Plaza de Toros Slope of Santo Curve of Mercaderes The encierro ends at the Bull Ring, where Domingo The calle Mercaderes ends with a 90 the runners fan out and let the bulls enter degree curve to the right. This curve is so they can go directly to the corrals, with The first section is that of the slope of famous because this is where many bulls the help of dobladores. When all the bulls Santo Domingo, of some 280 metres, fell and the herds split up. Non-slip are in the corral the third rocket is characterised by a sharp slope where the materials have been added to the road launched. With the fourth and final rocket, bulls tend to bunch together. It is the surface to put a stop to this. after the entry of the bulls into the corrals fastest and most dangerous section due to of the ring, the encierro has ended. the speed at which the bulls run. Curva de Telefónica After the encierro, yearling bulls with Calle Estafeta Before entering the plaza, the route goes capped horns are released into the Bull down the calle Duque de Ahumada, a Ring. Although this event has never led to The following section is the calle Estafeta, section known as ‘de Telefónica’. It is a any deaths, it has caused a lot of injuries. 304 metres of street characterised by its 100 metre section where the route opens One such person to be injured was Ernest narrowness and the opportunity the up and the bulls generally slow down. Hemingway. On 8 July 1924 he tried to runners have to place themselves before take yearling by the horns and was trodden the bulls, who are now tired. It is the most underfoot. popular and widely used section. It is divided into two: Estafeta-Bajada de Callejón Javier, which has a slight slope of 2%, and Bajada de Javier-Telefónica, where the The route narrows once again when it Plaza Consistorial/ herd starts to break up. reaches the callejón de la Plaza de Toros, to the extent that in several encierros jams Mercaderes have been caused by the number of fallen runners. Participants can take refuge in The second section is the Plaza del the barriers placed in the street. It is a 25 Ayuntamiento y Mercaderes, some 100 in metre long section with a descent. length. It is the widest section of the route.

16 17 EL ENCIERRO

SAFETY Every emergency service point with medical care facilities has an ambulance. The safety of the encierro is a key element There are a total of 9 ALS (advanced life in ensuring that it runs smoothly. support) ambulances and 6 BLS (basic Hundreds of people participate to life support) ambulances, 2 of which are guarantee this. held back in the Plaza del Castillo for referral from the Centro 112-SOS Navarra emergency telephone line to go to any Police point of the route where additional transport might be required. About 160 members of the police force, 120 of which belong to the Municipal The medical services are attended by a Police of Pamplona. From 4 A.M. onwards minimum of 12 doctors, 12 registered they ask people to withdraw from the route nurses, 21 transport staff, 50 aid of the encierro to enable cleaning volunteers, 8 communications staff and 8 personnel to do their work and carpenters emergency point coordinators. Medical care to put the barriers in place. They also along the route is provided with resources remove spectators at the first barrier, and medical and support personnel from which is reserved for medical personnel, the Red Cross, DYA, Fire Service and police and accredited media. To allow the Navarre Health Service, who provide encierrro to function smoothly the police on-the-spot medical care and transfer by also remove people from the route who ambulance to the General Hospital from have drunk too much to be in any the sector where the incident took place, condition to run. while also providing real time information to the Coordination Centre of the 112 SOS Navarra emergency services about the Medical facilities wounds and injuries of the people affected.

The special care unit for people injured The Coordination Centre of the 112 SOS during the encierro is made up of 16 Navarra emergency services is in charge of emergency service points next to the organising medical assistance and referral barriers, 12 with medical care services. The of injured people to different healthcare route of the encierro is 848.6 metres and centres to ensure that the severest cases has an emergency service point are the first to arrive at the Navarre Hospital approximately every 53 metres. emergency Complex or at the medical centre decided service points at the encierro are located at on by 112-SOS Navarra. the start of the slope of Santo Domingo (office of the Department of Education), the entrance steps of the Museum of Navarre, Plaza de Santiago (rear of the City Government building), steps of San Saturnino, City Government (2), Mercaderes (2), Bajada de Javier (2), Travesía de Espoz y Mina, Tejería, Duque de Ahumada, Bajada de Labrit, Cortes de Navarra (“Telefónica” or south street) and Hemingway (north street).

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DATA AVERAGE DURATION: case, because, without losing their bravery THE IMPORTANCE OF THE HERDERS. 3 m 55 s. or size, in recent years these bulls have The herders go behind the bulls and drive become faster and more dangerous. The them with sticks towards the Bull Ring. AVERAGE SPEED OF BULL: bulls of Miura, from 1980 to 2000, gored Another of their functions is to prevent 24 km/h. one runner in all the encierros. From runners from coming from behind, 2000 to 2015, this number increased to creating the risk of a bull turning around fifteen. and goring someone.

NUMBER OF INJURED: In 2015, the encierros recorded a total of 41 runners injured, 6 less than in 2014. Of these, only 10 were injured by bull horns. The encierro with most accidents was that of Tuesday 7, with a total of 11 2,700 BOARDS AND 900 FENCE POSTS. LONGEST ENCIERRO: injured (3 from horns), followed by The barriers were first put in place to 30 minutes (11 July 1959). A bull fell Saturday 11, with 9 injured (4 from demarcate the route of the encierro and behind a dog had to be used to bite the horns). On Friday 10, no runner in the are the most important safety barrier. In bull and so force it to enter the corrals. encierro required help from the medical the first days of June, four employees of services. the carpentry firm Aldaz Remiro, from MOST TRAGIC ENCIERROS: Puente la Reina, begin to put in place the 10 July 1947 and 13 July 1980. 2,000 RUNNERS. barriers of the encierro. They have, THE BULL RING. ‘Semillero’ (Urquijo) y ‘Antioquio’ To run in the encierro it is essential to be throughout the 848.6 metres of the route, The current Bull Ring was opened on 7 (Guardiola), respectively, each killed two in excellent physical shape. For this a total of 2,700 boards, 900 posts and July 1922. The participating runners. reason habitual runners look after 4,000 wedges to fix the posts firmly in in the opening event were Marcial themselves and train every day to place in the holes. Lalanda, Saleri II and Juan Luis de la BREEDER OF MOST DANGEROUS participate in the encierro. They enjoy the Rosa. During the Encierro of bulls bred by BULLS: fiestas in a different manner, without There are also 70 gates to leave the route Vicente Martínez, there was a pile up in a Guardiola Fantoni. 1 death in 1969 and staying up all night and avoiding excesses. all along the barriers and 6 more that are street that caused a large number of 2 in 1980. The number of runners in the encierro closed as the bulls pass by to stop them injuries. midweek can be up to 2,000 a day, a from returning. On the last day of the figure that almost doubles at the weekend fiestas, on 14 July, 85 people disassemble encierros. The average age of the runners and collect the barriers. is 28 and they run about 100 metres. Before starting the encierro, a runner’s THE NEWSPAPER. pulse can reach 148 a minute. Most runners use a rolled up newspaper to measure the distance from the bull and to attract their attention if necessary.

OLDEST LIVESTOCK BREEDER: Miura. This year, the bulls of Miura will run in their encierro number 35. The behaviour of the livestock has always been noble and was the preferred animal to see with large crowds on Saturdays and Sundays. However, this was not always the

20 21 THE ENCIERRO

DEATHS IN THE THE ENCIERRILLO ACCESS TO THE HISTORY OF THE The first event of the fiestas of ROUTE San Fermín is the encierrillo. Every night, ENCIERRO from 6 to 13 July, the bulls are transferred 7:30. The barriers of the route are closed from the gas corrals to the corrals of Santo at 07:30. Throughout its history, the encierro has Domingo. The event takes place at 10 at 7:45. Media accredited to be at the witnessed 16 deaths. night in absolute silence and near encierro barriers may remain there until darkness. The length of the route if about 07:45, when they should take their places 400 metres. Taking photos of the between the barriers unless authorised 10 July 2009 9 July 1975 10 July 1935 encierrillo is prohibited. To attend the otherwise by the Municipal Police. Daniel Jimeno Romero. 27, Gregorio Górriz Sarasa. 41, Gonzalo Bustinduy y Gutiérrez event, a free pass given by the City Alcalá de Henares. Gored in Arazuri, Navarre. Gored in the de la Solana. 29, San Luis de Government a few days before the fiestas the neck in the section of callejón. Bull from Fco. Javier Potosí, . Gored in the Telefónica. Bull from the Osborne (Jerez de la Frontera, Bull Ring. Bull from Doña is required. Jandilla livestock breeder: Cádiz): bull’s name: Carmen de Federico bull’s name, “Capuchina”. “Navarrico”. (Murubes).

8 July 2003 12 July 1974 8 July 1927 Fermín Etxeberria Irañeta. 63, Juan Ignacio Eraso Martiartu. Santiago Martínez Zufía. 34, Pamplona. Died on 24 18, Pamplona. Gored between Pamplona. Gored in the Bull September 2003. Gored in Telefónica and the callejón. Ring. Bull from Don Celso the section of Mercaderes. Bull from Herederos de Don Cruz del Castillo (Toledo). Bull from the Cebada Gago Manuel Arranz (Salamanca): livestock breeder: bull’s name: bull’s name: “Palmello”. 13 July 1924 “Castillero”. Esteban Domeño Laborra. 22, 12 July 1969 Sangüesa, Navarre. Gored in 13 July 1995 Hilario Pardo Simón. 45, the section before the callejón Matthew Peter Tasio. 22, , Navarre. Gored in (currently Telefónica). Bull Illinois, USA. Gored in the the slope of Santo Domingo. from Conde de Santa Coloma Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Bull Bull from Salvador Guardiola (Andalucía). from Torrestrella: bull’s name: Fantoni: bull’s name: “Castellano”. “Reprochado”. 07 July 1910 Francisco García Gurrea. 21, 13 July 1980 9 July 1961 , Navarre. Died on 21 Vicente Risco. 29, . Vicente Urrizola Istúriz. 32, January 1911. Gored in the Gored in the Bull Ring. Bull Pamplona. Gored in the slope entrance to the old from Guardiola Fantoni: bull’s of Santo Domingo, start of the (near the Teatro Gayarre). Bull name: “Antioquio”. Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Bull from Villagodio. from Álvaro de Domecq. 13 July 1980 José Antonio Sánchez 10 July 1947 Navascués. 26, Cintruénigo, Julián . 23, Villava, Navarre. Gored in the Plaza Navarre. Gored in the Bull del Ayuntamiento. Bull from Ring. Bull from Don Antonio Guardiola Fantoni: bull’s Urquijo (Murubes): name: “Antioquio”. “Semillero”.

8 July 1977 10 July 1947 José Joaquín Esparza Casimiro Heredia. 37, Sarasíbar. 17, Pamplona. Pamplona. Gored in the Gored in the callejón. Bull Estafeta. Bull from Don from Eduardo Miura: bull’s Antonio Urquijo (Murubes): name “Silletero”. bull’s name: “Semillero”.

22 23 THE ENCIERRO

BULL RUNNING RANCHES PROVIDING ENCLOSURES FOR ANIMALS FOR THE OFFICIAL PRESS 2016 BULL RUNNING REPRESENTATIVES 7th: Fuente Ymbro. 8th: Cebada Gago. 9th: José Escolar Gil. Prohibited 10th: Pedraza de Yeltes. 11th: Jandilla. Only Authorized 12th: Victoriano del Río. 13th: Núñez del Cuvillo. Permitted 14th: Miura.

24 25 THE ENCIERRO

REGULATIONS In the encierro, runners must always respect instructions from the Police and the herders. Loitering in the route There are 7 basic rules for runners in the of the encierro, without encierro. Any breach shall be punished with a fine. the intention of running in front of the bulls is prohibited.

Running with bags, backpacks or other Touching the bulls objects that might is prohibited. interfere with the runner’s movement is prohibited.

Running with flip-flops, Calling or attracting unsuitable footwear or the bulls’ attention barefoot is prohibited. from behind is prohibited.

Running under the influence of Taking photographs alcohol, drugs or in less than or recording images peak physical and mental while running is condition is prohibited. prohibited.

26 27 THE BULLFIGHTS

Government. In 1967 it underwent major 6 July. Bullfight with mounted bullfighters refurbishment, which increased its Toros Bulls from Capea, San Pelayo de capacity to 19,500 seats. Guareña (Salamanca) for the rejoneadores: Pablo Hermoso de Mendoza, Leonardo THE The Monumental de Pamplona is therefore Hernández and Roberto Armendáriz. the second largest bullring in Spain and the fourth largest in the world, after the 7 July rings of Mexico DF, and Nimes. Bulls from Fuente Ymbro with bulfighters Miguel Abellán, Paco Ureña and Roca BULLFIGHTS Rey. 8 July THE BULLFIGHTING WEEK OF PAMPLONA, WHICH COMMENCED IN 1959, IS Bulls from Cebada Gago with bulfighters Eugenio de Mora, Pepe Moral and Javier FAMOUS FOR BEING AN EVENT WHERE THE BULL TAKES ON MORE IMPORTANCE Jiménez. THAN THE . IT IS ALSO UNIQUE FOR BEING AN EVENT WHERE MEMBERS OF THE FESTIVAL SOCIAL CLUBS AND THEIR BANDS, WHO SIT IN 9 July THE UNSHADED AREA OF THE RING, LIVEN UP THE CORRIDA WITH SONGS AND Bulls from José Escolar Gil, Lanzahíta (Avila), with bulfighters Francisco Marco, MUSIC AND ORGANISE A PARALLEL PARTY. Juan Bautista and Alberto Aguilar. POSTER 10 July Bulls from Pedraza de Yeltes with THE BULL FIGHTS AND The Bullfighting Week of Pamplona is also The poster announcing the bullfighting bulfighters Curro Díaz, Ivan Fandiño and outstanding for its purpose as an event week of San Fermín is a snapshot taken Juan del Álamo. THEIR HISTORY with a charitable purpose: all the profits by the local photographer Pío Guerendiáin, obtained from the programmed events are and shows in the foreground a bull 11 July The Bullfighting Week of Pamplona given to the senior citizens cared for at the charging around the curve of the Estafeta, Bulls from Jandilla with bulfighters Diego consists of eight corridas, from 7 to 14 Casa de Misericordia. The corridas were during the encierro. The image of the Urdiales, Alejandro Talavante and López July, at 18:30 in the bullring. As an formerly held in the Plaza del Castillo, with poster, which shows only bulls and no Simón. aperitif for the main event, a bullfight with four barriers for safety and the balconies of runners, was taken from the building in young bulls and is held on 5 July the surrounding houses used for viewing calle Estafeta, 1. 12 July and a corrida with specialist bullfighters on the event. As attendance increased, further Bulls from Victoriano del Río with horseback on the 6th. safety measures were taken and the Pío Guerendiáin, born in Pamplona in bulfighters Juan José Padilla, El Juli and possibility of more space for spectators was 1946, has taken pictures of the fiestas of López Simón. The bullfighting commission of La Meca studied. The decision was then made that San Fermín for over 50 years. He has (La Casa de Misericordia) has organised a more suitable location was needed. received numerous awards for his 13 July this event for over half a century, which photographs, such as the Negtor for a shot Bulls from Núñez de Cuvillo with along with the bullfights of San Isidro of The first official bullring of Pamplona was of Paquirri in a bull fight in 1971. bulfighters Sebastián Castella, Miguel Madrid and Seville, form the three most built in 1843, on land near the Plaza del Ángel Perera and Roca Rey. prestigious events in Spain. The best Castillo (which is now the start of Avenida bullfighters currently on the scene Carlos III), always within the walled part of PROGRAMME FOR 14 July participate and fight with bulls from the the city. After a fire in 1921, a new ring Bulls from Miura with bulfighters most prestigious breeders. Every year, the (the one used today) was built on nearby 2016 Rafaelillo, Eduardo Dávila Miura and Carriquiri Award is given to the bravest bull land and opened on 7 July 1922. Manuel Escribano. of the week, while the Award of the 5 July. Young bulls Bullfighting Week is given to the bulls that The ring was built by the Casa de la Young bulls from El Parralejo, Zufre gave the best overall performance. Misericordia of Pamplona, the current (Huelva) with the novilleros: Javier Marín, owner, on land granted by the City Luis David Adame and Andy Jounes.

28 29 THE BULLFIGHTS

Celebrations Parade of the mules

19:30. Bullfight with young bulls on 5 From 7 to 14 July, at 17:30, a colourful July. procession goes from the City Hall to the 18:30 h. Corrida with mounted Bull Ring before the corrida commences. bullfighters on 6 July and the Two bailiffs dressed in black, caped and corridas of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, mounted on horseback, head the parade. 13 and 14 July. Behind them are two groups of three 11:00 h. Not included in subscription: mules adorned with bells and banners, · 11 July: Corrida vasco-landesa. accompanied by 14 mule drivers. These · 12 July: Bull jumpers competition. mules have the job of removing each bull from the ring when the fight has finished. The municipal band La Pamplonesa Seats completes the procession.

Entrance tickets can be bought at the ticket office of the Bull ring on the day Livestock fair before each event. A total of 1,950 tickets are put on sale every day. Some of the The City Government of Pamplona tickets are on sale via the Internet before organises a Livestock Fair on 7 July. the Sanfermines. Check the prices and Livestock breeders, dealers from the opening times of the ticket offices at and region and from other parts of Spain buy tickets at www.feriadeltoro.com. participate. The fair is exclusively for the sale of horses and takes place in the OTHER EVENTS Industrial Estate of Agustinos. RELATED TO THE Bullfighting discussion BULLFIGHTS groups The corridas of the fiestas give a lot to talk The Apartado about before, during and after they are held, and a large number of discussion From 7 to 14 July, at 13:00 at the Bull groups organised by hotels and the media Ring, the process of grouping, sorting and get together to hold discussions where separating the bulls for the evening corrida followers of bullfighting debate in detail takes place. In Pamplona, this ritual of all the aspects of the sport. separating the animals has become a major social occasion, where alongside the NUEVO CASINO PRINCIPAL fans famous personalities also attend and Plaza del Castillo, 44 1º drink a glass of fine sherry or try some In the main salon, a bullfighting criadillas or bulls testicles from the discussion group is held at 17:00 with animals that died in the ring the day followers of the world of bullfighting and before. bullfighters. Moderated by Pedro Berrozpe.

30 31 THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS

THE FIESTAS OF SAN FERMÍN HAVE TO BE EXPERIENCED MORE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE STREETS OF THE CITY, WHERE VISITORS CAN MEET THE PEÑAS, OR FESTIVAL SOCIAL CLUBS AND DANCE TO THE RHYTHM OF THEIR BANDS, ACCOMPANY THE COMPARSA DE GIGANTES Y CABEZUDOS, SEE THE STREET THEATRES, MARVEL AT THE NIGHTLY FIREWORK SHOWS AND ENJOY THE WIDE SELECTION OF MUSIC ON OFFER IN DIFFERENT PLAZAS IN THE CITY. THE PEÑAS the event. The Monumental de Pamplona bullring is unique in this regard for not The peñas or social clubs are an important being reigned by the sepulchral silence IN RED AND WHITE uniform that would mark them out and part of the fiestas in the street. The fiestas that is common to many . The distinguish them from other associations. of San Fermín have 17 peñas, 16 from peñas take their place above the pens and The custom in the Sanfermines is to dress White clothing was quite easy to find and Pamplona and one from Ansoáin. They are occupy part of the terraces 5, 6 and 7. In up as a pamplonica, with a white shirt, was also very easy on any wallet. It also groups of workmates or friends who have the andanada (the highest part of the trousers or skirt, and the red sash and achieved the objective of marking out the their own headquarters, distinctive ring), the peña members occupy sections neckerchief. During the fiesta almost wearer as it is highly visible, while in symbols (banners, shields, colours and 11, 12 and 13, and in the seating area, everyone wears the fiesta ‘uniform’, combination with red it is even more so. shirts) and a packed programme for the they take up sections 6 and 7. creating beautiful images of red and white. This may therefore be the reason why the fiestas of San Fermín. Their origins lie in No one knows exactly why this style of use of these colours become more and the groups of friends who together in dress was chosen, or who thought it up, more popular and extended to other the 19th century to go to the bullfights. In International peñas but what is undeniable is that it brings participants in the fiesta. The red the 20th century they were organised as everyone together during the fiesta. The neckerchief is an essential item if you associations and have hundreds of Participation year after year of tourists and simplicity of the clothing means that both really want to get into the ambience of the members on their lists. Their names fans of the Sanfermines has led to the locals and people from outside the city fiestas. The tradition states that you tie the usually refer to districts of the city or creation of peñas beyond the frontiers of wear it, to create human waves of red and neckerchief to your neck right after the sports clubs. Spain. Now there are the Peña Sueca, Los white, the two colours that characterise the chupinazo commences the fiestas, and Suecos, the Club Taurino of New York, the fiestas of San Fermín. there it stays until the ‘Pobre de mí’ that is Peñas organise a lot of events at their Amigos de Pamplona of Miami, the Peña the farewell after the final celebration of headquarters, but the one that most Borussia of Germany, the British peña The origins of the “suit” of the pamplonica the Sanfermines. No one can agree on its attracts people’s attention is the marches Frank and the French peñas La Gite and are unclear. There are several theories that meaning and symbolism and several they organise at the end of each corrida, Les Chauds, amongst many others. Fro attempt to explain this popular custom, different explanations exist. Tradition once where they fill the streets of Pamplona many years they have joined in the fiesta which has become an integral part of the again declares that the red of the with music and fun. to the extent that they are practically fiesta over time. It s often commented that neckerchief is a reminder of the martyrdom regarded as just another peña, like the the members of the peña La Veleta were of San Fermín, who was beheaded in the They also create a show in parallel with traditional ones of the city. In fact some of its creators. This social club was founded city of Amiens, during the persecutions of the corridas in the bullring. Members of them were formed even before many local in 1931 by locals of humble origins, the 3rd century. The red colour symbolises the peñas fill up the unshaded side of the ones took life. mostly working class, who wanted a type of the blood of the saint. ring, while their bands give further life to

32 33 THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS

THE PEÑAS drum, drum, flute or any other instrument THE RIAU RIAU that makes a noise. The Riau Riau is a tradition upheld by the Its origins go back to 1964 when a groups young people of Pamplona, who of friends of the peña Irrintzi decided to accompany the municipal Corporation on liven up the nights of the Sanfermines at a its route to the Plaza Consistorial and the time when there were hardly any music church of San Lorenzo to attend the concerts. Vespers to honour San Fermín. The famous Waltz of Astráin is the song played It is held sometime midweek, but it is by the Pamplonesa municipal band. The never announced or mentioned in any name comes from the popular verbal programme. Word of mouth and the media Armonía El Bullicio S.C.D.R. Aldapa Sanduzelai “punch line” added to the refrain of the are the ones to transmit the message. It Txantreana Pamplonés Irrintzi 1947 1980 waltz. The Carlist, Ignacio Baleztena, was starts at 23.59, when hundreds of people 1956 1932 1951 the one to promote this act in 1914 to meet up in the old Casa Marceliano (calle impede the progress of the Corporation Mercado) carrying any instruments that run by a different political party. When it makes a noise. At that moment they set commenced it lasted for an hour, but with off on a march that lasts hours thought time the march took progressively longer. the streets of the Old Quarter. In 1980 the record was broken when the march was suspended after five hours and Starting from Casa Marceliano, after 170 interpretations of the same waltz. singing the ‘Agur Jaunak’ they go through But suspensions are nothing new. In 1927 the Plaza Consistorial, calle Zapatería, San Donibane S.D.R.C. Oberena Alegría Anaitasuna it was prohibited for the first time. In Nicolás, Plaza del Castillo, Carlos III, calle 1978 La Jarana 1941 de Iruña 1949 1972, the incumbent mayor Javier Espoz y Mina, Estafeta and the Plaza 1940 1953 Rouzaut suspended the Riau Riau after Consistorial, where they end at the calle 45 minutes delay. In the 80s suspensions Mayor, at the well of San Cernin, opposite were frequent due to incidents during the the church of San Saturnino. Once there, march, and in 1991 it was suspended they sing the Agur Jaunak to end the event. indefinitely. Since 2002, a number of senior citizens’ THE COMPARSA DE associations of Pamplona and the peña S.C. Rotxapea El Charco 7 de Julio Los de Bronce Mutilzarra have promoted the organisation GIGANTES Y Muthiko Alaiak 1978 1977 San Fermín 1950 of a new Riau Riau to recover the 1931 1971 tradition. CABEZUDOS The march of the troupe of giants and THE ESTRUENDO bigheads is one the most popular events of the Sanfermines. 4 pairs of giants, 5 This event is one of the great mysteries of bigheads, 6 kilikis and 6 zaldikos, all the Sanfermines, because no one knows made of papier-mache, give life to the when it is going to happen, it never streets of Pamplona in the evening of 6 appears in any programme, but last year July and the mornings of 7 to 14 July. The La Única Mutilzarra was the 55th time it took place. Like troupe, founded in 1860, is now made up 1903 1992 everything else in the Sanfermines, it is an of almost 100 people, consisting of those event that is completely open to anyone wearing the costumes and bagpipe players. who wants to participate, with one The giants go through the streets to the condition: you have to go with a bass sound of traditional parade music. Each

34 35 THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS

kilos and have no names, they are simply numbered from one to six.

On the last day of the fiestas, the troupe takes on a special role. Firstly with the dance of honour of the giants in the Plaza Consistorial, and then with the traditional act called the “despedida” or farewell, also next to the City Hall.

of the giants, shaking hands with children. Their names are Alcalde, Concejal, FESTIVALS AND Abuela, Japonés and Japonesa. MUSIC The Kilikis are most feared by the kids, as their function is to hit the children with Music floods the city throughout the soft foam-rubber truncheons. The kilikis fiestas. Every type can be found from weight between 10 and 13 kilos and are traditional jota festivals and concerts of called Caravinagre, Verrugas, Napoleón, Basque flute music to street parties and Patata, Coletas and Barbas. The zaldikos rock concerts. And of course, the music of (“little horses” in Basque), are 6 horses the peñas and local bands that take over with their riders and just like the kilikis, the street at all hours of the day and night. they hit people with foam rubber The official programme has over 200 truncheons. The zaldikos weigh over 30 musical events held at six main stages in the streets of Pamplona.

giant dances to a band of bagpipe players resistance they give to factors such as the and the last one, which is always the wind. Their names are: Monarchs of American queen, dances to flute players. Europe (Josemiguelerico and They consist of 8 figures created in 1860 Joshepamunda), America (Toko-toko and by Tadeo Amorena, and represent four Braulia), Africa (Selim-pia El-calzao and pairs of kings and queens: European, Larancha-la) and Asia (Sidi Abb El Asian, African and Afro-American. They Mohame and Esther Arata). measure between 3.85 and 3.90 metres, reaching up to 4.20 when the carrier is There are five bigheads, made by Félix inside. Their weight varies between 55.8 Flores in 1890. Despite their large heads and 62.5 kilos, although the main of more than one metre high, over two problem when carrying them is not the metres wide and 14 kilos in weight each weight, but how it is distributed and the one, their only purpose is to walk in front

36 37 THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS

Festivals and music Citizens’ spaces FESTIVALS AND MUSIC

PLAZA DE LOS FUEROS PLAZA SAN JOSÉ CITIZENS’ SPACES Concerts Gora Iruñea From 6 to 13 July. 23:30. Until 23:00. Activities to promote popular culture throughout the day: PLAZA DE LA CRUZ traditional foods and street parties or Street parties and music groups concerts in the evening. 6 July. 22:30. From 8 to 14 July. 13:00. Music PLAZA DE RECOLETAS groups. Gora Iruñea 6 to 13 July, from 20:00 to 22:00 Until 04:00. Activities to promote and from 23:30 to 01:30 (6 July, popular culture for all audiences, only from 23:30 to 01:30). such as concerts, dance, theatre, etc.

PLAZA DEL CASTILLO BOSQUECILLO Street parties Federación de Casas Regionales en From 6 to 14 July, street parties from Navarra 19:00 to 20:30 and from 23:30 to Until 04:00. Activities to promote 02:30 (14 July, only from 19:00 to awareness of the different cultures in 20:30). the Autonomous Communities of Navarre. ANTONIUTTI World music TACONERA From 6 to 13 July, concerts from Nafarroako Ikastolen Elkartea 00:00 onwards. Until 02:30. Activities to promote popular culture, with special PLAZA COMPAÑÍA emphasis on encouraging the use of Jazzfermín the , including From 9 to 12 July, at 21:00 and concerts, dance, theatre, kids’ 00:00. activities, etc. 8 July, at 12:30. PLAZA SAN FRANCISCO PASEO SARASATE Gora Iruñea Jotas, folk music with dances and Until 23:00. Activities to promote bertsolaris (bards) popular culture, with special From 8 to 14 July, at 12:00, jotas. emphasis on activities for the family, From 7 to 14 July, at 19:00, folk children and young people, including music. concerts, dance, theatre, games, etc.

38 39 THE FIESTA ON THE STREETS

CITIZENS’ SPACES RURAL SPORTS AND Music is everywhere in the city during the PELOTA fiestas. You can find everything from jota festivals and traditional flute music During the Sanfermines, fans of pelota (a concerts to street parties and rock type of squash) can see the doubles concerts. And of course, the music of the pelota tournament held at the frontón peñas and local bands that take over the Labrit, and the final is held on 14 July. street at all hours of the day and night. Besides pelota, rural sports can be seen every day at 12:00 in the Plaza de los The City Government of Pamplona has Fueros with competitions and exhibitions provided five spaces for citizen’s of different sports whose origins lie in organisations and collectives in this year’s agricultural work: aizkolaris (log Sanfermines, so as to foster popular choppers), tronzolaris (wood slicers), culture and participation in the fiestas of motozerralaris (wood sculptors), San Fermín. The spaces are the plazas of harrrijasotzailes (stone lifters), etc. San José, Recoletas, San Francisco, Bosquecillo and Vistabella, where activities have been programmed KIDS PROGRAMME throughout the day by three not-for-profit associations. As well as the children’s attractions at the fair at the Runa park, the little ones in the family can also enjoy a complete FIREWORKS AND THE programme of activities and attractions at the Plaza de la Libertad and the TORICO DE FUEGO pedestrian area of Carlos III, with inflatables, clowns, street theatre and a The tradition of firework displays during puppet show by Maese Villarejo, who tells ARTEAGA the fiestas of San Fermín goes back to the of the adventures of Gorgorito and who JULIÁN 17th century. Every day during the fiestas at has not a missed a single San Fermin 23:00 the people of the city go to the since 1954. lawns at the Vuelta del Castillo, a large green space that surrounds the Ciudadela, Plaza de la Libertad: to marvel a the fireworks that are launched From 6 to 14 July : 11:30 to 14:00 from 6 to 14 July. Every night a different and from 18:00 to 21:00 (6 and 14 fireworks company performs the display afternoons/evenings only and 14 only from the Rampart of Santa María. All of till 20:00). them participate in the International Fireworks Competition held by the City Barracas. La Runa Park:

PLAZA Government. 5 July: 17:00 to 00:00. DE LA From 6 to 14 July: 12 to 18:00. LIBERTAD The torico de fuego, which is a structure 15, 16 and 17 July: 12:00 to 24:00. built in the same shape as a bull covered with fireworks, also brings together hundreds of children every night, with a small fireworks display on its back. The torico, carried by a young man, leaves the Plaza de Santiago and runs around the Plaza Consistorial at about 22:00.

40 41 THE ‘FIESTA’ ON THE TRAIL OF HEMINGWAY

returning to his favourite haunts. Some of Ring, which was attended by his last wife, them are still open today: the bar Txoko, Mary Welsh. the , the Café Iruña, all in the central plaza del Castillo, and the The monument, which is a work by Luis THE ‘FIESTA’ Hotel Yoldi. Others however, have closed: Sanguino, has the following inscription on Hotel Quintana, the café Suizo and Casa its base: “To Ernest Hemingway, Winner of Marceliano. The City Government of the Nobel Prize for Literature, friend of Pamplona paid tribute to Ernest this city and lover of its fiestas, who knew Hemingway on 6 July 1968, with the how to discover and transmit. The City of inauguration of a monument in the paseo Pamplona, San Fermín, 1968”. ON THE that bears his name, next to the Bull TRAIL OF HEMINGWAY THE FIESTAS HELD IN HONOUR OF SAN FERMÍN WERE A DOMESTIC CELEBRATION UNTIL A 24 YEAR OLD WRITER ARRIVED IN PAMPLONA ON 6 JULY, 1923. THREE LATER HE PUBLISHED HIS FIRST SUCCESSFUL NOVEL ‘THE SUN ALSO RISES’ (‘FIESTA’), A WORK THAT WAS TO MAKE THE SANFERMINES ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS EVENTS IN THE WORLD. HEMINGWAY VISITED PAMPLONA NINE TIMES.

‘Fiesta’ tells the story of a group of American He was so fascinated by the traditions of the and British people who wander aimlessly city that his presence became a constant through France and Spain, members of the one during the twenties (1923, 1924, lost generation in the period following the 1925, 1926, 1927, 1929 and 1931). After First World War. Ernest Hemingway (Illinois, a break caused by the Spanish Civil War, in 1899 - Idaho, 1961) arrived in Pamplona on which he actively participated as a supporter 6 July 1923, accompanied by his first wife, of the Spanish Republic, and another during Hadley Richardson. His passionate and the Second World War, he returned once brave character led him to participate in the again on two occasions, 1953 and 1959. fiestas of San Fermín just like any other Between these two years, Ernest Hemingway local: he run before the bulls, he made received the Pulitzer Prize in 1953 and a friends with toreros, such as Antonio year later was given the Nobel Prize for Ordóñez, and other Spaniards such as Literature. Juanito Quintana, he ate, drank and danced with the people of the city, and felt the He adored the local cooking with its use of intense joy and euphoria of the Sanfermines. garlic, oil and red peppers and characterised himself as a man of habits by always

42 43 SANFERMINES ON EQUAL TERMS

The aim of the campaign ‘Por unas fiestas Raise awareness about the libres de agresiones sexistas / Eraso importance of the response by sexistarik gabeko jaien alde’ (To create citizens to sexual harassment and fiestas free of sexual harassment) is that the shared responsibility of people, SANFERMINES areas used for the fiestas and the city as a associations, bars, social clubs, whole should also be safe spaces in San etc., for making spaces where the Fermín where an attitude of respect by fiesta is held safer in which an men and women enables girls and women attitude of respect by men and to enjoy themselves without violence, women allows girls and women to danger or sexual harassment of any type or enjoy the fiesta without violence or ON EQUAL intensity. To this end the City Government harassment. has placed an information point in the Plaza del Castillo with professionals who Raise awareness about appropriate can inform and guide citizens, with all the and inappropriate behaviour information anyone might need about associated with fiestas and having TERMS emergencies, telephone numbers and legal fun, paying attention to both and psychological advice and support. positive and desired attitudes and negative and unsuitable behaviour THE CITY GOVERNMENT OF PAMPLONA IS PROMOTING THE SANFERMINES ON This municipal campaign was proposed by for a city. the group ‘Sanfermines en igualdad’ EQUAL TERMS, FIESTAS FREE OF SEXUAL HARASSMENT, IN WHICH WOMEN (Sanfermines on equal terms) and was Establish a dialogue with citizens ARE ALSO TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION WITH REGARD TO THE PROGRAMME, approved by the Municipal Council for and collect information about ADVERTISING AND IN ENJOYING THE FIESTAS THEMSELVES: FREE OF HARASSMENT, Women. It has also taken on board the positive and negative situations that WITHOUT BEING OBLIGED TO TAKE ON ALL THE FAMILY ROLES AND TO BE ABLE proposals made by the Equality Round have been experienced or witnessed Table, which was created as a result of a by men and women as well as TO GO OUT WITHOUT FEAR AT ANY TIME OF THE DAY OR NIGHT. TO DO THIS, participative process carried out by the citizens’ responses to them. IT HAS LAUNCHED A CAMPAIGN FOR SANFERMINES, AS IT HAS IN PREVIOUS City Government of Pamplona for the YEARS, TO FOSTER THE RESPONSE OF CITIZENS TO SEXIST HARASSMENT AND TO Sanfermines. Participate in improving PROVIDE INFORMATION ABOUT RESOURCES AVAILABLE FOR GUIDANCE, CARE AND coordination mechanisms to share data and information about COMPLAINTS WITH REGARD TO THIS TYPE OF HARASSMENT. OBJECTIVES complaints and harassment during the fiestas. Make further progress in the city’s commitment to eliminate sexual 8 Improve the integration of equality harassment in fiestas. into every aspect of life.

Improve safety for women in areas 9 Identify what are the internal where the fiestas are being held discourses and attitudes that and in the rest of the city during accompany aggressive conduct the fiestas. towards women in areas where fiestas are taking place in which Inform citizens about resources there is high consumption of alcohol available for guidance, care and and drugs. Identify the most complaints about sexual suitable preventive proposals drawn harassment during the fiestas. from this analysis.

44 45 THE IMAGE OF THE FIESTAS IN THE MEDIA

reason, the City Government of Pamplona The group ‘Sanfermines en igualdad’ asks the media to broaden their gaze works in this area because all women can during the Sanfermines, showing that the participate in and freely enjoy the fiestas. fiestas of San Fermín are not just THE IMAGE It is a job in which citizens are getting uncontrolled behaviour and times when involved in on a massive scale. A fiesta anything goes, but rather they are fiestas that is free for all, fun for the family, for where everyone is working to make it meeting others and respecting them . possible for anyone to freely enjoy them. These Sanfermines should also appear The media can contribute towards before the microphones and cameras. showing a welcoming city that is festive, OF THE fun and respectful, a safe environment The media is a perfect channel for with a warm welcome for anyone who creating public opinion, to mobilise visits it. FIESTAS IN people and to provoke thought. For this

IMAGES TO BE IMAGES TO BE THE MEDIA REMOVED FROM THE PROMOTED IN THE THE MEDIA PLAYS AN ESSENTIAL ROLE IN CREATING NEW MORE OPEN AND SANFERMINES SANFERMINES TOLERANT MODELS, MORE RESPECTFUL TO PEOPLE, WITH IMAGES OF WOMEN Sexual harassment Respect AND MESSAGES OF EQUALITY. THE MEDIA TRANSMITS VALUES, STANDARDS AND Objectified women Male and female equality MUCH OF THE SYMBOLIC CONTENT OF. CREATING AND PREPARING NEWS, IT Fondling Fun and “clean” fiestas ALSO HELPS TO CREATE OPINION, DISCOURSE AND REFLECTION. Rudeness Friendship Drinking binges Responsible drinking Fights Harmony When handling news issues the media making clear that the responsibility for Large numbers of youngsters Bars, social clubs and citizens’ also participate in the creation of achieving this must be borne by society as drinking in the street spaces standards of behaviour that back up a whole. Therefore, the aim is to make the Excesses Moderation reference models and values in society. media participants in showing another The media creates and re-creates a model of the fiesta. One where not ‘reality’ that affects our vision of the world everything is about losing control, abuse and how to understand it. Therefore, the and debauchery without limits. Even media plays an essential role when though this type of behaviour does take transmitting non-stereotyped values and place, giving it exaggerated dimensions images, and by doing so become a force and consequences limits the concept of for change towards a society without what is a fiesta; focusing on and only gender discrimination. publicising this type of uncontrolled behaviour without the capacity to reflect on The group ‘Sanfermines en igualdad’ works and raise awareness about this type of on highlighting the importance of enjoying conduct has the opposite effect a priori, it the fiestas from a perspective of respect, shows fiestas where anything goes and equality and freedom from harassment, which are unsafe for women.

46 47 INCLUSIVE SANFERMINES

CITY GOVERNMENT OF PAMPLONA WILL PREPARE ANOTHER INCLUSIVE ACTIVITY THAT IT CALLS THE ‘WHITE BOOK ON THE INCLUSIVE SANFERMINES’. This is a 2 year project that commences this year and shall bring together from an open and heterogeneous perspective the SANFERMINES experiences and reflections of the collectives and stakeholders linked to THE CITY GOVERNMENT OF PAMPLONA WANTS EVERYONE TO PARTICIPATE IN the fiesta. The white book shall contain a structured analysis of the PREPARING AND CELEBRATING THE SANFERMINES. THE PEOPLE OF PAMPLONA Sanfermines using a specific working HAVE PARTICIPATED IN SELECTING THE POSTER ANNOUNCING THE FIESTAS, THE methodology (audits, participatory LAUNCH OF THE CHUPINAZO AND OFFICIAL FIESTA PROGRAMME, DIRECTLY IN process, analysis of secondary SOME CASES AND VIA SOCIAL ASSOCIATIONS AND BODIES IN OTHERS. sources, etc.), so as to set down the strategic bases for what shall be the fiesta in the coming decade. The idea is that it shall become a reference This year the City Government of were also responsible for selecting the document for planning and Pamplona has set in motion an inclusive poster announcing the fiestas and the developing the work of the City process to involve citizens and share the person to launch the chupinazo. This was Government in this area. organisation and other aspects of the done by direct, phone or Internet vote to fiestas of San Fermín with them. The choose from the pre-selected candidates participation has been articulated via the for both issues, either by jury or at the San ‘Mesa de los Sanfermines’ (Sanfermines Fermín committee. Committee), a body presided over by the mayor, including councillor’s The poster announcing the fiestas of San representatives, municipal technicians and Fermín for this years was prepared by the representatives of fifty associations and boys and girls of the Primary School organisations of the city. Along with this Buztintxuri Ikastetxe Publikoa. It is called working space, four specific committees ‘Sanmarrazkin’ and was the winner from have been established to work on the the 376 poster presented to the public following main aspects: encierro, street competition called by the City (fiesta spaces, cleaning, times, etc.), Government. programming and equality. The aim of these committees is to be a space for The person that shall launch the analysis, debate and reflection about the chupinazo to open the Sanfermines for fiestas their relation with the city, a forum 2016 was also selected by popular vote for participation and coordination between from the six candidates proposed by the the fiesta stakeholders and the City General Committee of the Sanfermines. Government; and to draw up action plans He is the local figure, Jesús Ilundáin for organising and programming the Zaragüeta, ‘El Tuli’ (see more information fiestas. in the section ‘Chupinazo’).

As well as the participation of citizens in the committees, the people of Pamplona

48 49 POBRE DE MÍ POBRE DE MÍ

THE SANFERMINES OFFICIALLY END ON 14 JULY AT 12 MIDNIGHT WITH THE SINGING OF ‘POBRE DE MÍ’ (POOR ME). THIS IS AN EVENT THAT BRINGS TOGETHER LOCALS AND VISITORS IN THE PLAZA CONSISTORIAL, ALTHOUGH THIS FAREWELL CELEBRATION ALSO EXTENDS TO THE PLAZA DEL CASTILLO AND OTHER PLAZAS IN THE CITY CENTRE.

the most moving moments comes when everyone present at 12 midnight takes off their neckerchief and raises it, holding the corners with both hands. The Pobre de mí, and other San Fermin songs are sung along with the ‘Ya falta menos’. The fiestas of San Fermín have officially ended.

As well as in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, this act of farewell can be seen in the Plaza del Castillo, thanks to a giant screen showing the ‘Pobre de mí’. The peñas usually select this location for their goodbye to San Fermín. In a procession in the opposite direction, after the Pobre de The Pobre de mí is the mother of all mí, many locals and visitors go to the farewells, because throughout the day railings of the Church of San Lorenzo, adioses are repeated, on the 14th the last where the Saint remains in the chapel, to encierro takes place in the morning, the leave their candles and neckerchiefs in a goodbye to the gigantes y cabezudos at ceremony of homage and farewell. midday and the last bullfight of the week in the evening. With the red neckerchief still round their necks and a lit candle in their hands, hundreds of people meet before the illuminated facade of the Town Hall to say goodbye to the Saint and his fiestas.

From the balcony of the Town Hall, the mayor announces the official end of the Sanfermines and declares the ‘Ya falta menos’, the countdown to next year’s fiestas, with the consolation that 9 we are nine days closer to the next ones. One of

50 51 SANFERMINES IN FIGURES

SANFERMINES 450 ACCREDITED PROFESSIONALS for the encierro. 140 members of the media from 20 countries around the world work IN FIGURES there. 16,629 RUNNERS participated in the 8 encierros San Fermín 2015. The most crowded encierro was on Saturday 11 July, in which 2,576 people ran.

410 EVENTS. The official programme of San Fermín 2016 has more than 400 54% of the runners in the encierro were events organised by the City Government FOREIGNERS. Of those from Spain, 10% of Pamplona. 67% were musical events, were from Pamplona and another 4% while 22% were for the family and came from other parts of Navarre. children, 6% were related to bullfighting and 1% others.

10 INJURED from bull’s horns. 10 people were injured by bulls’ horns in the 1.4 MILLION SPECTATORS. Over 1.4 encierros of 2015 and 42 hospital million people participated in the events referrals were made. of the programme for Sanfermines 2015.

9 PEOPLE FINED in the encierro. The 2,000 MILLION IMPACTS on Twitter of the Municipal Police fined 9 runners in the Sanfermines 2015, with almost 250,000 encierro for infringing Regulations: 3 for tweets. using recording equipment, 1 for running towards the bulls, 2 for calling the bulls, 2 for touching or grabbing them and 1 for climbing over the barriers. 986,100 KILOS of glass and rubbish collected by the cleaning services in the fiesta spaces in the Sanfermines 2015. 20,000 PEOPLE followed the comparsa de gigantes y cabezudos every day.

52 53 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS USEFUL TELEPHONE

NUMBERS EMERGENCY SERVICES TOW TRUCK RESERVOIR 112 948 420 444

MUNICIPAL INFORMATION TOURIST OFFICE REGIONAL POLICE POST AND TELEGRAMS 010 and 948 420 100 Calle San Saturnino, 2 848 421 729 902 197 197 Times: 9:30 to 13:30 6 July: 14:00 to 20:00 www.pamplona.es 7 to 14 July: 09:00 to 14:00 and 15:00 to 20:00 MUNICIPAL POLICE POST OFFICE (CENTRAL OFFICE) Tel. 948 420 700 092 948 207 217 CITY GOVERNMENT OF PAMPLONA. COMMUNICATION 948 420 592 SOCIAL SERVICES NATIONAL POLICE AIRPORT OF PAMPLONA-NOÁIN s.comunicació[email protected] Women’s help desk: 112 and 092 091 948 168 750 “To make fiestas free of sexual harassment” GOVERNMENT OF NAVARRE. Information point: Plaza del Castillo GUARDIA CIVIL 24 HOUR PHARMACIES COMMUNICATION 5 to 14 July: 11:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 062 948 222 111 848 426 700 to 21:00 prensa@.es NAVARRE HOSPITAL COMPLEX TRAIN STATION (RENFE) LUGGAGE LOCKERS 848 422 222 and 848 429 400 948 130 202 and 902 320 320 INTERNATIONAL PRESS OFFICE Plaza de San Francisco [email protected] 4 July (8:00) to 15 July (18:00). 24 Headquarters: Baluarte (Navarra hours. Price: 4.60 € package/day DOCTOR SAN MARTÍN HEALTH CENTRE TAXIS Conference Centre and Auditorium) Tel. 948 212 480 848 422 100 948 232 300 and 948 351 335 Opening hours: 1st to 4th July: from 10 to 14 hours 5th and 6th July: from 9 to 20 hours LOST PROPERTY RED CROSS BUS STATION 7th to 14th July: from 7:45 to 20 hours Calle Monasterio de Irache, 2 948 206 570 948 203 566 Telephone numbers: 948 066 191, Times: 24 hours 948 066 192, 948 066 193, Tel. 948 420 619 948 066 194, and 620 704 775 URBAN TRANSPORT sanferminprensa.com 948 423 242

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57 5 WALKS AROUND PAMPLONA

The city was founded by the Roman that brings together the cultural and general Pompey on a pre-existing Vascon environmental heritage of the city. settlement on the hill of the River Arga. This took place in the year 75 B.C. during 5 WALKS the first civil war of the Roman republic. 2. Green city Its geographical location on the intra- Pamplona is defined as a green city. Its Pyrenean axis meant that it became parks and gardens take up 20% of the between the 9th and 16th centuries first an city’s area, where more than 250 species administrative centre and then an of trees grow and are tended. Pamplona is AROUND independent kingdom with Íñigo Arista as also deeply committed to sustainable its first ruler. In the Middle Ages it development, and works to develop expanded to such an extent that the mobility, energy savings and original town exploded into a series of environmental education. settlements of Frankish inhabitants to give PAMPLONA it a new urban and political structure and new demography, customs, and economy 3. City of the Way together with a new language. This was the origin of three independent urban areas: of Saint James POPULATION LOCATION the Navarrería, the Burgo de San Cernin, and the Población de San Nicolás, which Pamplona is the first city on the Way of 199,403. 351,000 people live in the Pamplona is in the centre of Navarre. after 200 years of uneasy coexistence and Saint James that enters Spain from greater metropolitan area (55% of the Situated on a plateau at 449 metres internal strife were definitively united by . It goes from north to south, population of Navarre). 10.6% of the above sea level, its total area is some King Charles III the Noble in 1423. on a route that includes ancient streets, population are immigrants. During the 23.55 km2. churches with marks of pilgrimage, parks academic year, Pamplona is home to about Since in 1512 the Crown of Castile and gardens. 20,000 students at its three universities, conquered the , which makes it a leading Spanish city in CLIMATE Pamplona became consolidated as the terms of higher education. In Pamplona political capital of Navarre. The 4. City of flavours two languages are equally recognised as The average annual temperature in 2015 construction of the Citadel as from 1571 official: Spanish and Basque. was 14 degrees. and the subsequent strengthening of its Pamplona is a major destination for lovers walled enclosure made it into a fortress. of fine cuisine, a city that invites you to savour local products and the traditional During the 20th century the population of dishes of Navarre. Pamplona increased sevenfold as it became a modern avant-garde city that has also been able to preserve its history, its 5. City of culture customs, and its social and cultural richness. In Pamplona, history, nature and art come together. Painting and sculpture can also be enjoyed at places such as The Museum 1. Fortified city of Navarre, the Museum of the University of Navarre, the buildings of the Ciudadela The fortified complex of Pamplona, built or the Jorge Museum. between the 16th and 18th centuries, is one of the best conserved walled enclosures in Europe. The walls of Pamplona, which acted as a defensive barrier, is now a leisure area and a feature

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residence for bishops and royalty. The RAMPART OF THE architect, Rafael Moneo was 1. Pamplona, commissioned to restore it and it was REDÍN inaugurated as a documentary archive in 2003. It houses an immense model of the fortified city Its triangular shape enabled cannons to city of Pamplona in 1900 and a provide enfilading fire in all directions. It Romanesque domed chamber. was the best defended point and the most Pamplona has one of the best conserved difficult to reach. This made it the best Renaissance walled complexes in Europe. RAMPART OF LABRIT viewpoint in the city over the River Arga. It PASEO DE RONDA A pleasant walk of more than five also provides the best view for understan- kilometres lets you relive history and This is one of the oldest defensive ding the bastioned system made up of This was the high route taken by soldiers discover the city from an unusual angle. structures of the fortified complex, and bulwarks, with their cannon batteries and to watch over the horizon. It is flanked by dates back to 1540. An elevated pedes- turrets, moats, ravelins and counterguards. the colourful houses of the medieval trian walkway that connects the medieval Close by is one of the most magical district of San Cernin. FORTÍN DE SAN city with the Ensanche leads you here. The corners of: the Mesón del Caballo Blanco. walls can be seen under illumination if you BARTOLOMÉ take a nighttimes walk here. LA TACONERA PARK PORTAL DE FRANCIA The route along the walls commences The oldest in the city (1850) and one of from this strongpoint built in the 18th RONDA DEL OBISPO This is the only one of the six gates in the the most iconic for its French gardens and century. It is home to the Fortifications walled city that keeps its original location statues, which startle visitors as they walk Interpretation Centre, where information BARBAZÁN and appearance. Built in 1553, a second through the park, and for the ravens, about the history and development of the exterior gate was added in the 18th ducks and peacocks that live in the moats city’s defences can be found. This is the fortified circuit that protected century, which still has a drawbridge and of the walled area. The ravelin of San the Archbishop’s Palace, where one of the system of chains. Until 1915 the curfew Roque and, and especially, the rampart of few remnants of the medieval wall can be was called every night and the city gates La Taconera, are highlights in the fortified seen. were closed, making the city impregnable zone. to outsiders. LA CIUDADELA (THE CITADEL) This fortified area is regarded as the best example of military architecture of the Spanish Renaissance and one of the largest defensive enclosures in Europe. The Ciudadela is pentagonal in shape, with a bulwark at each angle, and is surrounded by a wide moat. It is strengthened by four ravelins and two counterguards. The gardens within have four carefully GENERAL ARCHIVE OF conserved historic buildings that now NAVARRE house art exhibitions. Built as the Palace of the Monarchs of Navarre in the 12th century, it was a

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Fortín de San Bartolomé General Archive of Navarre

Rampart of Labrit Paseo de Ronda

Ronda del Obispo Barbazán 8 La Taconera park

Rampart of the Redín 9 La Ciudadela (the Citadel)

Portal de Francia

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through the park, and for the ravens, ducks and peacocks that live in the moats of the YAMAGUCHI PARK 2. Pamplona, walled area. The ravelin of San Roque and, and especially, the rampart of La Taconera, A park of Japanese design that contains in are highlights in the fortified zone. its 85,000 m2 Japanese elements such as green city a large geyser, a pagoda, a lake with a bridge and waterfall and a number of WALK ALONG THE exotic species. Pamplona is one of the greenest cities in Spain. Its parks and gardens take up CASTLE AND CITADEL The park dates from 1997 and came almost 20% of the city’s area and weave about thanks to the good relations through it as an essential part of its urban The 280,000 m2 of woodland and between Pamplona and its twin city of structure. grassland in both parks make up the green Yamaguchi, which was evangelised by St. lungs of the city. A space for playing in the 16th century. sports or relaxing amongst the walls, RIVERSIDE PARK OF moats and ramparts. THE RIVER ARGA MEDIA LUNA PARK A beautiful walk of almost 20 kilometres alongside the banks of the river that can Shaped like a waning moon, its fountains, be taken on foot or by bike, where you can fish pond and romantic design make it see trees of many different species, fishes, one of the most beautiful parks in ducks, birdlife and other animals, and also LA TACONERA PARK Pamplona. There are 43 species of tree enjoy the picnic areas, fishing zones, here, including huge sequoia and gardens, medieval bridges, walkways, old The oldest in the city (1850) and one of commemorative monuments such as those mills and playgrounds that are available the most iconic for its French gardens and of the local violinist Pablo Sarasate or of along the route. statues, which startle visitors as they walk king Sancho El Mayor.

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Riverside park of the River Arga

La Taconera park

Walk along the castle and Citadel

Media Luna park

Yamaguchi park

ARTEAGA

JULIÁN

PLAZA DE LA LIBERTAD

66 67 5 WALKS AROUND PAMPLONA 3. Pamplona, city of the 4. Pamplona, Way of Saint James city of flavours

Pamplona is the first city on the popular The route obliges the walker to wander One of the main attractions of Pamplona Way of Saint James. The bridge of the down the streets of the three old districts is the cuisine, which in Navarre forms a Magdalena and the Portal welcome named by their parish churches: part of our culture. pilgrims and lead them down a route of Navarrería, with the cathedral of Santa ancient streets, churches with the marks María la Real; San Nicolás, with its parish To whet your appetite, the best thing to do of pilgrimage, parks and gardens. church of the same name; and San is to try the famous tapas (or “pintxos” as Saturnino, with the church of San Cernin. they are called here) in the bars of the Old The city is entered via the district of La Quarter. You’ll love them. Then for lunch Magdalena. The route takes the pilgrim to After passing near the park of the La or dinner, local products should be a main a 12th century medieval bridge that Ciudadela, the pilgrims’ route continues feature on the menu: spring vegetable crosses the River Arga that has a calvary along the Castle Walk and loses itself stew, red “piquillo” peppers, asparagus, with an image of Saint James at one end. amongst the streets of the modern part of lamb or veal, Roncal cheese… And to After crossing the bridge the pilgrim the city until it reaches the grounds of the finish it all off, what could be better than comes to the foot of the walls, and after University of Navarre. There a stone bridge one of our traditional, home-made crossing the old moat of the fortifications guides the pilgrim in the direction of desserts like curds, cottage cheese and enters the Old Quarter of the city via the Menor. honey, rice pudding, custard slice or Portal de Francia or the gate of “pantxineta” and “txantxigorri” pancakes? Zumalacárregui. All this and more can be found in the 150+ bars and restaurants waiting to serve you.

And to accompany your meal, choose a good wine with the Designation of Origin of Navarre: red, white, rosé or muscatel. And if you like liqueurs you can’t leave Pamplona without trying a glass of pacharán.

You can buy many of the typical products of Navarre, both fresh and preserved, at local food stores and the city markets.

68 69 5 WALKS AROUND PAMPLONA 5. Pamplona, city of culture

In Pamplona, lovers of painting and sculpture have the opportunity to discover OCCIDENS CATHEDRAL and take pleasure in a wide variety of works of art in different spaces, such as MUSEUM OF the Museum of Navarre, the Navarre University Museum, the buildings of La PAMPLONA Ciudadela or, on the outskirts of the city, the Museum of Modern Art and the The cathedral of Pamplona is home to Jorge Oteiza Museum. “Occidens”, a journey through Western history that sets out to stimulate thought about the origins of Western culture. MUSEUM OF NAVARRE “Occidens” is an experience that goes way beyond a conventional exhibition. In June The museum contains local works of art 2013 it received the award for the best from Prehistory up to the 20th century, as exhibition in the world and in 2014 it well as interesting temporary exhibitions. obtained the Special Commendation Prize Highlights include the impressive Roman at the European Museum of the Year mosaics, the Hispano-Islamic chest of Award (EMYA 2014). Leire, the Romanesque capitals carved by the master carver Esteban, the medieval frescos from and the Cathedral, and UNIVERSITY MUSEUM the portrait of the Marquis of , a well-known work painted by Goya. OF NAVARRE Inaugurated in January 2015, the latest inclusion to the exhibition spaces of the city presents the collection of María Josefa Huarte, which includes the work of key artists of the 20th century such as Picasso, Rothko, Kandinsky, Chillida, Oteiza, Tàpies and others. It also houses the old Photographic Bequest of the University of Navarre, which contains more than 14,000 photographs of the 19th and 20th centuries with snapshots by famous photographers and photojournalists like José Ortiz Echagüe, Pere Català Pic, Robert Capa and Henri Cartier-Bresson.

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CIUDADELA JORGE OTEIZA Four buildings in the park of the Citadel MUSEUM (the Armoury, the Pabellón de Mixtos, the Oven and the Powder Store) holds The Oteiza Museum, situated in Alzuza (9 temporary exhibitions of modern art by km from Pamplona), houses the personal local artists. An ideal space to discover the collection of the famous sculptor and new artistic developments in unique integral artist, made up of 1,650 surroundings. sculptures, 2,000 works from his experimental laboratory, sketches, collages, and the Laboratorio de Tizas URBAN SCULPTURES (Chalk Laboratory), one of the most important features presented by the The streets and parks of Pamplona are Museum. home to more than 110 sculptures by different artists, which are perfectly integrated in their surroundings. Artistic HUARTE MODERN ART gems made of copper, stone, bronze, steel, concrete, cast iron… which are CENTRE often unnoticed by visitors and by those more information about them: who, caught up in the daily round, do not location, title, artist, history, etc. go Less than five kilometres from the centre stop to look at them in greater detail. For to http://esculturas.pamplona.es/. of Pamplona, Huarte plays host to the first cultural centre in Navarre specifically designed to disseminate and promote modern art in its different disciplines through exhibitions and a wide range of activities. The centre focuses particularly on the current art scene, emerging art and multidisciplinary creations.

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Navarra is the gateway to the Camino de Autonomous Region an ideal place for Santiago or Way of St James, on which nature lovers and devotees of rural stand many of the architectural treasures tourism. of the north; it crosses the Zona Media 10 and also La Ribera. In Navarra you can In Navarra you can enjoy peace and quiet, enjoy good eating, festivals such as the explore beautiful landscapes, get to know Sanfermines, and the fairs and cultural enclaves of historical interest, visit small events that are organised throughout the local museums, or indulge in active year, and the combination of a unique tourism. The proposals are endless and natural heritage and hundreds of quality allow us to discover a Region with a charm PROPOSALS establishments that make this of its own. FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA

Navarra offers the visitor cultural tourism, The north of Navarra is marked by the ecotourism and nature tourism, rural green of the Pyrenean foothills with tourism, gastronomy and wines, festivals destinations such as the Caves of and traditions, and congress and health or those of Urdazubi-Urdax, tourism. There are a thousand reasons for the landscapes of the Baztan Valley, or the discovering Navarra. reservoirs of Leurtza. An outstanding destination in the Pyrenees is the Selva de Navarra is a land of diversity and Irati, the second most extensive beech and contrasts, of varied routes, of paths, and of fir forest in Europe; the Foz of pleasant surprises: a series of landscapes and that of Arbaiun; and the valleys of that can be explored at your leisure Salazar, Roncal, and Belagua. In the because their variety is so accessible. Sierra de Aralar you can enjoy green Scarcely 100 kilometres as the crow flies meadows interspersed with beechwoods, separate the green landscapes of the lofty brooks, caves such as that of Mendukilo, Pyrenees from the plains of La Ribera, the and unforgettable hikes such as the Vía geographical regions which together with Verde del Plazaola, a gentle green route the Zona Media and the Pamplona District that includes the Tunnel of Uitzi which is make up the territory of the Autonomous three kilometres long. Region of Navarra.

76 77 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA 1. The Pyrenees 2. Journey to the centre

Discover the north of Navarra and let Santuario de San Miguel in Excelsis, in of a natural paradise yourself be charmed by the high peaks of addition to offering amazing settings and the Pyrenees and their magnificent fine panoramic views of the Pyrenean landscapes. In the eastern area the visitor peaks and the uplands of Navarra. Hike along the Pyreanean paths, lose The Route of the Landscapes of Navarra is welcomed by the unforgettable scenes of yourself in the Selva del Irati, and discover includes 20 viewpoints and 15 paths the escarpment of the Macizo de Larra, the the landscapes of the Zona Media. The where you can do just that, the latter in extensive Selva de Irati, the depths of the landscape moves and surprises us and close association with water. These Foz de Arbaiun over which vultures soar, invites relaxation and the reflection as to outstanding landscapes are unique and and the historical ensemble of the how it has been possible to preserve so easy of access, and their local population Collegiate Church of Orreaga-Roncesvalles. much natural richness. is proud of how well they have been looked after. But the western area also has magnificent In La Ribera can be found one of the natural paradises. As we descend the major treasures of Navarra’s heritage: the mountains we come to picturesque Bárdenas Reales, a nature reserve that has country houses, legendary caves, green been declared a Biosphere Reserve by the meadows, and spaces such as the Señorío UNESCO. It surprises the visitor with its de Bertiz Nature Reserve. Other semi-desert landscapes, formations of the indisputable attractions include the Sierra Bárdena Blanca such as Castildetierra and de Aralar and the Urbasa-Andia Nature Pisquerra, the area known as El Plano, Reserve, which contains treasures such as and the Bárdena Negra, in all of which the Vía Verde del Plazaola and the hiking and cycling can be enjoyed.

78 79 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA 3. Nature and sport 4. Landscapes to enjoy

Navarra is a paradise for combining nature roads and its tracks that sometimes seem the tarmac and sport, whether in a relaxed or more impassable and sometimes offer pleasant challenging manner. The Green Routes rides. The rivers of Navarra fill with boats such as the Vía Verde del Plazaola, the and canoes, especially in spring when the In 2016 the Circuito de Navarra will hold Tren Txikito of the Bidasoa, the Vasco- greenthaw arrives. On the reservoirs of the Six International Enduro Days, the Navarro, and the Tarazonica follow disused and Alloz you can enjoy sailing, major event for this sport. railway lines that have been recovered for windsurfing, and water skiing which leisure use. attract numerous sports enthusiasts in the As for road routes for motor bikes, within summer. short distances Navarra goes from the it is also a paradise for aficionados of most intense green of the Cantabrian adapted walkways such as those of the Sendaviva is an Adventure Park for the meadows to the woodlands of the Rincón de Belagua, Orgi, Leurtza, Bertiz, whole family to enjoy. Located in Arguedas Pyrenean foothills, or from cereal fields and the Laguna de , with exciting close to the Nature Reserve of the and olive groves to the unusual desert of proposals such as Segway rides or those Bárdenas Reales. Sendaviva puts us in the Bárdenas Reales. This diversity of organised by the horse-riding clubs that contact with nature and shows us how landscapes and a wide network of exist in all areas of the Region. deer, goats, wolves, birds of prey, bears, secondary and local roads together with tigers, and lions live. Sendaviva includes attractive gastronomy make Navarra an Navarra has a strong relationship with the shows and attractions such as the largest ideal destination for motor bike tourism. bicycle. Thousands of cyclists use its zip-line in Europa, bobsleigh, skydiving, the water maze, and water bumper cars. Navarra has a leisure and sports circuit On the website and the app and in the that has been created for racing. Located leaflets of Navarider, driving enthusiasts Tree climbing with canopy walking is in , the Circuito de Navarra has will find ten road routes with a total of another of the attractions with most a speed track four kilometres long, a 2.001 kilometres of bends that will allow followers in Navarra. There are Adventure technical circuit where you can enjoy the you to discover many of the most beautiful Parks with zip-lines and tree routes in the thrlll of racing that also stages corporate landscapes of Navarra. All the routes, areas of Bertiz, Lekunberri, Auritz/ events for companies, leisure days for which have original names such as “The Burguete, , and . aficionados, and many other activities butterfly”, “The shark”, “Elvis lives”, and thanks to its five specific tracks: the “The crocodile” include detailed profiles, In winter cross-county skiing is a tradition speed circuit, the go-kart circuit, the GPS trackers, maps of routes, kilometre in Larra-Belagua and in Abodi in the AutoCross track, the slippery track, and, points, marked junctions, summaries, and forests of the Selva de Irati; in these the 4x4 area. accommodation options. landscapes snowshoes are also used on routes.

80 81 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA 5. Birding Navarra: 6. MICE tourism getting to know the birds Navarra is an innovative, safe, matchless heritage. Moreover, its MICE professional, and welcoming region. Its headquarters go beyond the limits of the distinctive character makes it an ideal city as they are established in spaces The birds that nest in Navarra or cross the the Otos del Arga, and the Bárdenas choice for staging congresses, surrounded by nature that are ideal for region in search of more favourable Reales. Discovering them is easy with conventions, and business meetings. The unwinding after a long day of business, climates give us images of great beauty Birding Navarra, a club that offers an prestige of its university and healthcare such as the Spa or the that keep us in contact with nature. There information service and a website on and its considerable business fabric, Spa. is nothing like listening to the song of ornithological tourism in the Region. It characterised by the importance of the goldfinches, contemplating the passage of also gives access to a series of professional automobile industry and of clean energy, doves, cranes, or geese, discovering rock guides and catering companies. make Navarra an ideal destination for refuges haunted by birds of prey, or MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Congresses, observing the activities of mallards, coots, and Exhibitions) tourism. and little grebes among the waters and reeds of the lagoons. With a wide range of leisure and cultural activities and accommodation and Some of the ideal places for birdwatching infrastructure, among which stand out the in Navarra are the Señorío de Bertiz Conference Centre and Auditorium of Nature Reserve, the hills of Ibañeta and Navarra, Baluarte, Refena, the Linduz, the Sierra de Urbasa, the Professional Association of Doctors, and oakwoods of -, the the Planetarium, Pamplona has made Laguna de Pitillas, that of Las Cañas, the itself a name for business tourism: it is a Belagua Valley, the Foz of Arbaiun and green, accessible, and comfortable city that of Lumbier, the district of Sangüesa, with quality hotels and gastronomy and a

82 83 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA 7. Navarra cinema route 8. Castle and fortress route

Castles, walls, towers, and fortifications Tower House of Jauregia de . remind the visitor of the origins of Navarra The Zona Media of Navarra includes and the vicissitudes of the Old Kingdom. several monumental ensembles such as Their corridors and halls tell us of legends those of Viana and Estella-Lizarra, and of the knights, noblemen, and kings that numerous towers, fortified churches, and inhabited them in former times, and their castles, among which stand out the Castle battlements and turrets are excellent of the Kings of Navarra in Olite and the vantage points for observing the most Castle of Javier. varied landscapes. The itinerary of La Ribera in the south of The Route of the Castles and Fortresses Navarra reveals remains of ancient gives us access to some of the most fortifications and walled enclosures in significant castles and fortifications of Rada, , and Cortes, together with Navarra with four different itineraries. The the restored Castle, a Gothic first passes through the north of the Region palace with its moat and drawbridge, and Cinema producers and directors have In recent years the Region has been the and includes the remains of Amaiur Castle, the Monreal Tower of Tudela, the first turned to Navarra on many occasions. Its chosen setting for films as popular as the last bastion of resistance against camera obscura in Navarra. villages and towns have seen work by “Witching and Bitching” and “Spanish Castile after the conquest of Navarra, the Audrey Hepburn, Orson Welles, and other Affair”, and this year will see the shooting Palacio de Jauregia de Irurita, and the stars of yesteryear, as well as the Oscar- in Baztan of “The Invisible Guardian”, the winning Javier Bardem, Penélope Cruz, first film based on the successful trilogy Cameron Diaz, Michael Fassbender, and of Dolores Redondo set in this valley of Martin Sheen and a large cast of Spanish Navarra. actors and actresses. On the “Navarra, de cine” route the visiting film buff can enjoy charming locations and walks in woods and streets in the footsteps of his favourite actors and directors. Following the camera, “Navarra, de cine” invites you to get to know Pamplona, the Camino de Santiago pilgrim route as it passes through the Region, , the Selva de Irati, the Bárdenas Reales, and up to a total of 13 settings that saw the flming of “Robin and Marian” (1976), “The Way” (2009), and “Airbag” (1996), among many other films.

84 85 10 PROPOSALS FOR DISCOVERING NAVARRA 9. Among vines and 10. The witchcraft route vineyards In the 16th and 17th centuries the society Many of these women were accused of of Navarra was characterised by its witchcraft. Medieval history relates cultural and political differences, its Navarra to witches, covens, potions, beliefs in myths and legends, and the exorcisms, and persecutions. The Navarra age-old wisdom of the women of former Witchcraft Route has four different times in their use of nature to cure itineraries that explore the main scenarios diseases. of this phenomenon: enclaves of great beauty imbued with an air of mystery that invite the visitor to enter the enigmatic world of obscurantism and at the same time enjoy the flavours of cultural and gastronomic traditions and the genuineness of a medium that has known how to preserve its essence.

Reds, rosés, whites, cavas... The gastronomy, lunches in the country, hiking Autonomous Region offers both variety through vineyards, and a visit to the Olite and quality in its Navarra and Rioja Wine Museum and other experiences. Denomination of Origin wines. To savour them and enjoy oenological culture, the The Navarra Wine Route also allows you to Navarra Wine Route proposes endless get to know the Cerco de Artajona, Ujué, activities ranging from visits to wine cellars the Monasterio de la Oliva, the Palacio and working on the vines, and including Real of Olite, the Romanesque bridge of wine tasting, combinations with Puente la Reina, the Romanesque architecture of La Valdorba, and other examples of the heritage of Navarra; remains of former times such as the Abandoned Medieval Village of Rada, the Musealised Site from the Iron Age of Las Eretas, and the Andelos Site in Mendigorría, together with the Bárdenas Reales and other natural enclaves of great beauty.

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