Anno 10 - Numero 9 / 2017
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Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land Page 9
VERTICAL TIMESSection The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 09/Volume 86 www.accessfund.org Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land page 9 CHOOSING YOUR COnseRvatION STRateGY 6 THE NOTORIOUS HORsetOOTH HanG 7 Winter 09 Vertical Times 1 QUeen CReeK/OaK Flat: NEGOTIATIONS COntINUE 12 AF Perspective “ All the beautiful sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action.” — James Russell Lowell irst of all, I want to take a moment to thank you for all you’ve done to support us. Without members and donors like you, we would fall short F of accomplishing our goals. I recently came across some interesting statistics in the Outdoor Foundation’s annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report. In 2008, 4.7 million people in the United States participated in bouldering, sport climbing, or indoor climbing, and 2.3 million people went trad climbing, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It is also interesting to note that less than 1% of these climbers are members of the Access Fund. And the majority of our support comes from membership. We are working on climbing issues all across the country, from California to Maine. While we have had many successes and our reach is broad, just imagine what would be possible if we were able to increase our membership base: more grants, more direct support of local climbing organizations, and, ultimately, more climbing areas open and protected. We could use your help. Chances are a number of your climbing friends and partners aren’t current Access Fund members. Please take a moment to tell them about our work and the impor- tance of joining us, not to mention benefits like discounts on gear, grants for local projects, timely information and alerts about local access issues, and a subscrip- tion to the Vertical Times. -
Intermediate Snowcraft Course Nzac Instruction
NZAC INSTRUCTION PROGRAMME INTERMEDIATE SNOWCRAFT COURSE AUCKLAND SECTION 31st July to 1st August and 14th to 15th August NZAC – Intermediate Snowcraft Course LOCATION: Whakapapa, Mt Ruapehu ACCOMODATION: NZAC Ruapehu Hut COURSE FEES: $595 Who is this course for? The NZAC Intermediate Snowcraft course is designed for NZAC Novice Mountaineers (or those with an equivalent skill set) who are looking to gain additional skills to travel safely in alpine terrain where straightforward steep snow and ice is encountered, and where abseiling on descent could be required. This is an alpine course suitable for NZAC Novice Mountaineers who have consolidated their skills through trips on grade 1+ alpine terrain. Please ensure you meet the minimum requirements. CLICK HERE TO REGISTER ONLINE NZAC – Intermediate Snowcraft Course At a minimum, those wishing to register for the Intermediate Snowcraft Course must: ● Have some experience in backcountry tramping ● Have undertaken personal trips on Mount Cook Grade 1+ terrain. ● Be competent in the course outcomes detailed in the NZAC Basic Snowcraft Course Outline ● Have the fitness to enjoy multiple full days in the mountain environment. Course Syllabus: Preparing for the alpine environment ● Clothing / equipment ● Trip planning resources (avalanche forecast / weather forecasts / guidebooks) ● Weather ● Navigation ● Physical Training Being and moving in the alpine environment ● Use of two ice axes, for daggering and piolet traction on moderately steep snow ● The use of crampons on steeper terrain ● Building -
CBC Document – Mar 2020 INFORMATION for ABSEIL
CBC Document – Mar 2020 The following information is intended as a handout for trainees and participants before commencing the activity. INFORMATION FOR ABSEIL TRAINEES AND CANYONING PARTICIPANTS Context Canyoning involves descending rock clefts such as waterfalls and gaps in rocks created by water. It often requires abseiling, swimming, liloing as well as rock hopping and scrambling abilities. Walking into and out of the canyon can also involve scrambling over rocks and rock climbing. Canyon participant requirements Attributes of participants for canyoning • Suitable balance evident by experience with rock hopping in creeks. • For vertical canyons, suitable abseil experience and skills. • For any canyon with deep water (more than 1.7m), the ability to tread water and swim for at least 50 metres wearing clothing and shoes. • Adequate fitness and agility to complete the trip. There is normally no going back after the first abseil requiring the group to commit to completing the trip. • Leaders and co-leaders to be advised (in confidence) of any medical condition that may affect abseiling, rock hopping or swimming. • Overnight bivies are rare in canyons, but they can happen. Recommend you have adequate mental and physical ability, as well as lightweight equipment to deal with such an event. Required equipment for Abseil training • A day pack with some snacks and water. • A helmet. A bike helmet is adequate for training. • Gloves. Any close-fitting protective gloves will do. Sailing gloves with just the tips of the forefinger and thumb exposed are ideal as they are designed for wet conditions, but leather riggers or close-fitting gardening gloves are OK. -
Climb Antarctica Required Clothing and Equipment List
CLIMB ANTARCTICA REQUIRED CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT LIST Conditions in Antarctica change drastically throughout our season and vary depending on your location. At Union Glacier, the climate is very dry and generally sunny but wind chill can impact temperatures greatly with early November being as cold as -22°F (-30°C). Average mid-season temperatures range from -12°F to 30°F (-24°C to -1°C). To be prepared for all conditions, it is important to have a selection of items you can mix and match. The layering system described below will keep you safe and comfortable in all conditions—it is also the same system utilized by our Antarctic field staff. You do not need to wear ALL of these layers ALL of the time. Dress for the weather conditions and the activity level you expect to encounter and bring extra layers with you in your backpack in case conditions change. Base Layer Materials Polyester, Merino Wool, or Silk but NO COTTON Examples Patagonia Capilene or Smartwool Description Your first layer consists of a lightweight or midweight long- sleeved thermal top and bottom. We recommend materials that wick moisture away from your body like polyester or merino wool. If you cannot wear artificial fibers or wool, silk is an alternate option. Cotton traps moisture and can cause you to chill more rapidly. Zip T-necks are a great option as they allow ventilation. Bring undergarments, sports bras, and/or camisoles in a similar wicking material. Mid Layer Materials Polyester, Merino Wool, Stretch Fleece, Grid Fleece Examples Patagonia R1 Fleece or Rab Power Stretch Description Your second layer consists of a long-sleeved heavyweight (expedition weight) base layer top and bottom or lightweight stretch fleece top and bottom. -
Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
Actor Network Theory Analysis of Roc Climbing Tourism in Siurana
MASTER THESIS Actor network theory analysis of sport climbing tourism The case of Siurana, Catalunya Student: Jase Wilson Exam #: 19148985 Supervisor: Professor Tanja Mihalič PhD. Generalitat de Catalunya Mentor: Cati Costals Submitted to: Faculty of Economics University of Ljubljana, Slovenia Submitted on: August 4th, 2017 This page has been left internationally blank. AUTHORSHIP STATEMENT The undersigned _____________________, a student at the University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Economics, (hereafter: FELU), declare that I am the author of the bachelor thesis / master’s thesis /doctoral dissertation entitled________ ____________________________________________, written under supervision of _______________________________________________ and co-supervision of _________________________________________. In accordance with the Copyright and Related Rights Act (Official Gazette of the Republic of Slovenia, Nr. 21/1995 with changes and amendments) I allow the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be published on the FELU website. I further declare • the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be based on the results of my own research; • the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be language- edited and technically in adherence with the FELU’s Technical Guidelines for Written Works which means that I • cited and / or quoted works and opinions of other authors in my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation in accordance with the FELU’s Technical Guidelines for Written Works and • obtained (and referred to in my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation) all the necessary permits to use the works of other authors which are entirely (in written or graphical form) used in my text; • to be aware of the fact that plagiarism (in written or graphical form) is a criminal offence and can be prosecuted in accordance with the Criminal Code (Official Gazette of the Republic of Slovenia, Nr. -
Equipment Notes Are a Comprehensive Guide Which Covers All Our Summer Trips, from Three-Day Treks to Twelve- Day High Alpine Courses
Due to the nature of the mountain environment, equipment and clothing must be suitable for its intended purpose. It must be light, remain effective when wet or iced, and dry easily. These notes will help you make informed choices. Bring along the mandatory clothing, wet weather gear and any equipment you already own that is on the equipment checklist. This gives you an opportunity to practice with your gear and equipment so that you become efficient at using it out in the field. These equipment notes are a comprehensive guide which covers all our Summer trips, from three-day treks to twelve- day high alpine courses. Please look over your equipment checklist to see what is required and refer only to the sections that are pertinent to your trip. Adventure Consultants can offer clients good pricing on a range of clothing and equipment. Please feel free to contact us if you would like any advice on specific products or if you would like to special order any clothing or equipment for your upcoming trip. BODY WEAR Waterproof Shell Jacket Bring a non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with water-resistant zip closures and a good hood capable of fitting over a helmet. The jacket should be easy to move in with your base and mid layers on underneath, and provide a good overlap with your pants, but should not be so long that it restricts access to your harness. Chest pockets are useful to things like snacks and sunscreen during the day. Pit zips allow for increased ventilation and cooling. -
Helmets Culture Shock Be Inspired
32418_Cover 12/4/02 10:58 am Page 1 ISSUE 26 - SUMMER 2002 £2.50 Helmets Off Centre Impacts Culture Shock Climbers in Wadi Rum Be Inspired Stanage and On Peak Rock ALPINE A – Z NEW INSURANCE PULLING POWER PHOTO COMP WINNERS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • YEARBOOK • EXHIBITION FOREWORD... SUMMER SUMMITS elcome to Summit 26 which this time focuses on mountain travel, summer rock and getting Wout in the great outdoors. For me, like many climbers and walkers, the day the clocks change is a notable date in the annual calendar. All of a sudden the winter blues start to fade away, the daffodils come into bloom, the evenings lengthen, optimism returns, plans start to become reality – it’s summertime and it's time to head for the hills! The spring and summer months are indeed a wonderful time in the climbing year-book. This year, the clocks went forward over the Easter weekend and for some of us, the sun even shone. Honeypot areas such as Snowdonia, the Lakes, the Yorkshire Dales and other National Parks were heaving with visitors: Portland, Pembroke and Gogarth bus- tled - people were out there doing it and the countryside was well and truly back in business. Personally, I had an unusually quiet Easter. Unlike many others who headed for Scotland, the Alps, Fontainebleau or Sardinia, I stayed at home, recharged my batteries, ate good food, drank Abso- lution and made plans for the year. A couple of long walks took me up and around the Kinder plateau, following in the footsteps of the Kinder trespassers on one occasion and scoping out some new lines on another. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
How Not to Train Top 5 Moderate Desert Spires
THE PUSH AN EXCERPT FROM TOMMY CALDWELL’S NEW MEMOIR FIRST THE RED FEMALE RIVER GORGE’S SECRET 5.15 PAST HAYES MAKES HISTORY TECH TIPS TRAIN ENDURANCE EAT SMARTER, SEND HARDER LOWER IN TOP 5 MODERATE GUIDE MODE DESERT SPIRES HOW NOT TO TRAIN (HINT: IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK) Fabian Buhl Fabian © 2017 adidas AG Andreas Steindl Andreas OUTPERFORM THE WIND The TERREX AGRAVIC ALPHA HOODED SHIELD jacket protects you from the wind while keeping your body at the optimal temperature. Whether you perform high pulse or static movements, always stay in your most comfortable zone while pushing your limits further. Andrew Taylor Andrew adidasoutdoor.com all new features EASY OPEN/CLOSE 1 LEAK-PROOF CAP LEAK-PROOF 2 ON/OFF LEVER Water when you want it, none when you don’t. 20% MORE 3 WATER PER SIP Faster water flow powers longer adventures. ERGONOMIC 4 HANDLE Perfect for one-hand filling. HOW TO FIX SOMETHING THAT ISN’T THE LEAST BIT BROKEN. Why upgrade to a new camelbak crux when an old CamelBak Reservoir will last forever? Because we never stop innovating. Our new Crux reservoir delivers 20% more water with every sip in a pack loaded with the latest in hydration technology. camelbak.com CONTENTS 8 FLASH 22 THE APPROACH 17 EDITOR’S NOTE 20 OFF THE WALL Latino Outdoors is engaging the Lati- no community in outdoor recreation. 21 UNBELAYVABLE THE CLIMB 22 TALK OF THE CRAG Climbers, federal agencies, and locals are working to preserve Joe’s Valley. 24 PORTRAIT Kris Hampton’s rise from a rough past to coaching stardom. -
Montañismo Y Medio Ambiente FEDME 2019”
ÍNDICE GAME 3 Equipos de Alpinismo 6 Programa Mujer y Deporte 22 Programa Nacional de Tecnificación Deportiva (PNTD) 25 Premios FEDME 36 Área de Competición 40 Esquí de Montaña 41 Escalada 119 Paraescalada 218 Liga de Rallyes de Escalada 228 Carreras por Montaña 236 Raquetas de Nieve 296 Marcha Nórdica 298 Barranquismo 311 Campamentos y Marchas 318 Comité de Seguridad 337 Escuela Española de Alta Montaña 348 Senderismo 368 Accesos y naturaleza 376 Expansión 383 Marketing y Comunicación 386 Memoria Deportiva y de Actividades FEDME 2019 2 GAME Actividades Viaje al Canadá Celebrado del 1 al 11 febrero 2019 en la magnífica zona de Alberta, Canadá. El GAME tras unos años de distinto planteamiento, ha regresado al formato de los viajes monográficos, en este caso para escalar en hielo en una de las mejores zonas del mundo. Fueron bonitos y muy fríos días los que el grupo de 16 glaciaristas tuvo en tierras canadienses, todos ellos miembros del GAME. El viaje se desarrolló sin mayores contratiempos y el grupo llegó a Canmore (Alberta) donde estableció su Campo Base de actuación. Actuación que por cierto tuvo un gran radio de acción, de entre 100 y 400 km para llegar a los grandes objetivos previstos. El grupo cada día tuvo reuniones y puestas en común para hablar de las actividades realizadas y las futuras escaladas, aproximaciones, condiciones, dificultades, etc. El grupo contó con el asesoramiento de Carlos Buhler, gran alpinista americano conocedor de la zona y que vive desde hace años en Canmore. Carlos ya colaboró con el GAME en años anteriores. -
Accidentology of Mountain Sports Situation Review & Diagnosis
Accidentology of mountain sports Situation review & diagnosis Bastien Soulé Brice Lefèvre Eric Boutroy Véronique Reynier Frédérique Roux Jean Corneloup December 2014 A study produced by a research group Scientific supervisor: Bastien Soulé, sociologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Brice Lefèvre, sociologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Eric Boutroy, anthropologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Véronique Reynier, psychologist Université Grenoble Alpes, Sport & social environment laboratory Frédérique Roux, jurist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Jean Corneloup, sociologist Université de Clermont-Ferrand, UMR PACTE CNRS With scientific support from PARN, Alpine centre for study and research in the field of natural risk prevention Acknowledgements We would like to thank all those contacted for interviews (sometimes several times) for their kind collaboration. We were authorised by most of the parties involved to access their accident/rescue intervention data. Being conscious of the sensitive nature of such information, and the large number of requests to access it, we hereby express our deepest gratitude. We would also like to thank the Petzl Foundation for having initiated and supported this project, and particularly Philippe Descamps for his openness and patience, Olivier Moret and Stéphane Lozac’hmeur for their assistance with this project. Cover photo: © O. Moret Back cover: © O. Moret Layout: Blandine Reynard Translation: