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Tra Prese Artificiali E Premi Nobel PAESE : AUTORE : Meridiani Montagne (ITA)(ITA)Italia- it Luigi Dodi Print Tipo media: PAGINE :145 Periodici Tiratura: 68.500 Meridiani PublicationMontagnedate: SUPERFICIE :01.11.20170 % Diffusione: Pagina: 145 Spread: 41.612 1 novembre 2017 Readership: 41.612 Montagne in arrampicata Tra prese artificiali e premi Nobel Il Rock Master Festival è arrivato all'edizione numero 31 Un successo Ghe si rinnova e cresce ancora, Quest'anno, ad Arco cliTrento, si è vista anche la presenza de premo Nobel per la fisica Mike Kosteritz na stinding ovarion agonistica) In prima fili, in ha accolto, la sera di attesa del verdetto, sedev2no U venerdì 2 agosto, un Adam Ondra, Margo Hayes e emozionato Micliael Kosterlitz Stefano Ghisolfi (per il Wild mcntrc saliva sul palco dcl Gouniry Rock Award). Janja Casinò munkipale di Arco. Garribrei, SIl4una Coxsey e L'occasione è stata la corise- Domen kofic (per il La Spor- gna del Climbing Ainbassador tiva Competition Award): 67 by Dryrn® di Aquafil (a chi anni di età totali per i primi, ha contribuito alla promo- 65 per i secondi, •74 unni da zione dell'arrampicata nel solo per Kosterlitz, Spalle mondo, nella cornice degli larghe, bicipili scolpiti e ma Arco Rock Legends, gh storici gliettine alk moda da una Oscar dellarrampicata. giunti parte, abbigliamento sobrio 1hi loro 12 dizione che im- e flernrni tipicamente inglese preziosicono il Rock Master dafla]tra. E passato e il futuro Festival. Kosterlitz Nobei per dell'arrampicata, riuniti nella -<I la fisica 2016, ra il pubblico di stessa sala I due premi dedi- Arco è rcordato più per il suo cati ai climber, per la crona- glorioso passato di scilatore, ca, srno stati vinti da Margo che per i suoi lavori cientifìci. Haves (19 airni), 'anche grze 4 Ti -a la fine degli anni Sessan- al suo inuedibile 9a+ di La ta e gli anni Settanta, infatti, Ra,nbla a Siurana, prima don - il fìico britannico ha dato un tu su questa difficolti; c dalla contributo al- portentosa Janja Una fondanientale Gambret (18 spcciuilit che hanno visto im- standing ovation ha accolto, la sera lo sviluppo dell'arrampicata, anni), destinata a fare grandi pegnarsi i più forti climber da di venerdì 25 agosto, un emozionato soprattutto in Vil1e deUOrco cose nei prossimi anni Michael tutto il mondo. Le due gare Kosterlitz mentre saliva sul palco del Casinò insieme a Motti e Grassi: indi- Dopo la serata degli Arco cli Led e Speed de! circuito municipale di Arco. L'occasione è - stata inenticbile la Fssura Kostr- Rk Lrids, gli atleti deI1'fsc World Cup coppa la (1 consegna del Climbing Ambassador by litz (6b) al Sergent, ma anche 260 Dryarn® da 35 Paesi diversi, con del mondo deIl'Intemtional di Aquafil (a chi ha contribuito OOO alla b via dagli ngk'i 1Bidile quasi spettltori e 1,3 fèdet.iticn of sport climbing, promozione dell'arrampicata nel mondo), nella cornice Faceva un certo effetto vedere milioni di visua!izzazoni su degli chc ari Arco vede l'unica tap- Arco Rock Legends, gli storici Oscar la figura composta di Koster- RaiSport: questi i numeri del pa itaIiau), e le \perle\ in deH'arrampicata, giunti alla loro 12a - edizione, litz di fianco ai finalisti degli Rock Master Fesuval si so- ventate proprio che dal Rock Ma impreziosiscono il Rock Master Festival. Kosterlitz, altri premi, il Wild Courit- Nobel due no dati battaglia al Climbing sler Festival, così apprezzate per la fisica 2016, tra il iy Rock Aw'atd (pei l'atiivilà iii Stadiuui, ai piedi della rocca dal pubblico pubblico e ambite dagli di Arco è ricordato più falesia) il La Sportiva Com- che per domina la cittad.na del atleti: il Duello (con il quale il suo glorioso passato di scalatore, petition Award (per 1'ttivit Garda trentino. Quittro k si assegna il ttofeo Rock Ma- che per i suoi lavori scientifici. Tra la ster) e il KO Boulder. cata sporliva, e alla francese fine degli anni Sessanta e gli Nella regina delle gare, il Le- Julia Chanourdie. Grance fol- anni Settanta, infatti, il fisico britannico ad, si sono distinti l'austriaco la per il KO Bouldcr, che tra ha dato un contributo fondamentale allo sviluppo dell'arrampicata, Jacob Schubert, in campo gli uomini ha visto trionfare il soprattutto in Valle dell'Orco insieme a maschile, e la cireana Jain coreano Jongwon Chon, men- Motti e Grassi: indimenticabile la Fessura Kim tre tra le donne si Kosterlitz ua le donne. Per quan è imposta (6b) al Sergent, ma anche la to riguarda lo Speed, invece, la fuoriclasse st2tunitense Alex via degli Inglesi al Badile. Faceva un tra gli uomini vince il rus- Puccio. certo effetto vedere la figura composta so Vladislav 1)cuin, Un'edizione da record, che va di mcntrc Kosterlitz di fianco ai finalisti - degli nelIs categoria femminile si a consolidare se lncora ce altri due premi, il Wild - Count- ry aggiudica il primo posto la ne fosse bisogno il prcstigio Rock Award (per l'attività in falesia) e francese Anouck Jauhert. Il e la fama del Rock Master Fe- il La Sportiva Com- petition Award trofeo del Rock Master. dopo stival. Sulla strada per TDkyo. (per l'attività agonistica). In prima fila, UflO in spettacolare Duello, vie- l'appuntamento è per il 2018 attesa del verdetto, sedevano Adam Ondra, Qui sopra, da sinistra Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, Stefano Margo ile invece asegJ1{to ll'inag- ad Aico, ormai indiscussa ca- Hayes e Stefano Ghisolfi (per Ghisolfi, Janja Garnbret, Domen Skofic e Shauna Coxsey. In il giungibile ceco Adam Ondra, pitale europea delJ'arrampica- Wild Country Rock Award), Janja alto la statunitense AJex Puccio in e Michael Garnbret, azione: Kosterlitz. dell'arrampi- Shauna ormai un mito ta sportiva.Luigi Doch Coxsey e Domen Skofic (per il La Sportiva Competition Award): 67 anni di età totali per i primi, 65 per i secondi, 74 anni da solo per Kosterlitz. Spalle larghe, bicipiti scolpiti e ma- gliettine alla moda da una parte, abbigliamento sobrio e flemma tipicamente inglese dall'altra. Il passato e il futuro dell'arrampicata, riuniti nella stessa sala. I due premi dedicati ai climber, per la cronaca, sono stati vinti da Margo Hayes (19 anni), anche grazie al suo incredibile 9a+ di La Rambla a Siurana, prima donna su questa difficoltà; e dalla portentosa Janja Garnbret (18 anni), destinata a fare grandi cose nei prossimi anni. Dopo la serata degli Arco Rock Legends, gli atleti - 260 da 35 Paesi diversi, con quasi 8000 spettatori e 1,3 milioni di visualizzazioni su RaiSport: questi i numeri del Rock Master Tutti i diritti riservati Festival - si sono dati battaglia al Climbing Stadium, ai piedi della rocca che domina la cittadina del Garda trentino. Quattro le specialità che hanno visto impegnarsi i più forti climber da tutto il mondo. Le due gare di Lead e Speed del circuito dell'Ifsc World Cup (la coppa del mondo dell'International federation of sport climbing, che ad Arco vede l'unica tappa italiana), e le "perle" inventate proprio dal Rock Master Festival, così apprezzate dal pubblico e ambite dagli atleti: il Duello (con il quale si assegna il trofeo Rock Master) e il KO Boulder. Nella regina delle gare, il Lead, si sono distinti l'austriaco Jacob Schubert, in campo maschile, e la coreana Jain Kim tra le donne. Per quanto riguarda lo Speed, invece, tra gli uomini vince il russo Vladislav Deulin, mentre nella categoria femminile si aggiudica il primo posto la francese Anouck Jaubert. Il trofeo del Rock Master, dopo uno spettacolare Duello, viene invece assegnato all'irraggiungibile ceco Adam Ondra, ormai un mito dell'arrampicata sportiva, e alla francese Julia Chanourdie. Grande folla per il KO Boulder, che tra gli uomini ha visto trionfare il coreano Jongwon Chon, mentre tra le donne si è imposta la fuoriclasse statunitense Alex Puccio. Un'edizione da record, che va a consolidare - se ancora ce ne fosse bisogno - il prestigio e la fama del Rock Master Festival. Sulla strada per Tokyo, l'appuntamento è per il 2018 ad Arco, ormai indiscussa capitale europea dell'arrampicata sportiva. Luigi Dodi Luigi Dodi Qui sopra, da sinistra Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi, Janja Garnbret, Domen Skofic e Shauna Coxsey. In alto la statunitense Alex Puccio in azione; e Michael Kosterlitz. Il Rock Master Festival è arrivato aH'edizione numero 31. Un successo che si rinnova e cresce ancora. Quest'anno, ad Arco di Trento, si è vista anche la presenza del premio Nobel per la fisica Mike Kosterlitz, Montagne in arrampicata .
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