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The Professional The Professional MountaineerISSUE 29 SPRING 2020 £4.75 » » The Association British Association British Mountain Mountain Training of Mountaineering of International Guides Association Instructors Mountain Leaders PLACING TRAD GEAR IMPROVE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY CERRO TORRE EUROPEAN VULTURES dmmclimbing.com climb now work later Leo Houlding on pitch 8, FFA of The Great Northern Prow (E6 6c, 500m), Mount Roraima, Guyana. Matt Pycroft/Coldhouse dragonfly on the " These little cams were a game changer." wall Leo Houlding Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and small pockets. The holding power of the TripleGrip lobes inspires confidence and minimises ‘walking‘. › Dragonfly Micro Cams range 1-6 EDITORIAL ASSOCIATION CONTACTS AMI Sandy Paterson [email protected] BAIML Ian Spare [email protected] MTA Belinda Buckingham [email protected] BMG Kenny Grant [email protected] EDITORIAL Technical editor Steve Long [email protected] Sub editor Jo Peters ABOVE The editor at the end of the course completion ceremony for a Mountain Leader­style training course in the [email protected] Western Ghats, (Sahyadri) February 2020. © GypsyPrincess Diaries. Production co-ordinator Belinda Buckingham [email protected] Design Jane Beagley, Vertebrate Publishing Environmentalists predicted that almost universally. www.v-publishing.co.uk average global temperatures would Never was outdoor education more ADVERTISING rise, and storm intensities increase, and so it has proved. A whole family vital, despite the massive and unrelenting Advertising sales Caroline Davenport casualties that this sector has experienced T 01270 878 324 of named storms have swept across E [email protected] the United Kingdom, often separated under austerity policies. We must never Advertising artwork must be supplied ready by massive thaws. forget our potential to motivate and inspire prepared as high resolution (300dpi), font everyone we come into contact with, acting embedded pdf/jpeg. Please refer to our T&Cs for details and cancellation terms. Pollinators are in rapid decline throughout as custodians of our local resource, educators Print and distribution Printworks the world, and species loss has accelerated to of the wonder found in the outdoors and as www.printworksprint.co.uk such a level that the age of mankind has now catalysts for incremental behavioural change. NEXT ISSUE been dubbed the sixth mass extinction. But Our National Councils provide vital Summer 2020 Improve your photography – it is not all doom and gloom. According to contact with the policymakers, and have part 2, Mountains for the mind, Rock fall at mountain crags. Nature magazine: long been in close contact with the natural Copy deadline: Friday 17 April 2020. scientists. I suspect that it is social science The Professional Mountaineer is “ Earth is capable of providing healthy diets for that holds the “trump” cards for bringing registered with the British Library. 10 billion people in 2060 and preserving viable positive change, but the internet has already ISSN 2052-3351 habitats for the vast majority of its remaining been saturated with fake social media Our front cover species… The benefits for biodiversity and Tom Grant and Valentine Fabre on the Sache accounts – science fiction predictions – Mont Pourri (3779m) traverse in the Vanoise, humanity of pursuing these goals are great, of robot influence have reached at least January 2020. A moderate alpine route in sum­ and with forethought and timely action, these mer, this becomes a long and serious outing in metaphorical reality! We are important winter conditions! © Ben Tibbetts. goals can be achieved.” “influencers” out there in the real world, Woodland Carbon scheme and we need to up our game if – as Greta CO2 emissions from the This is small consolation for our members production of the paper used Thunberg reminds us, we love our children. in this magazine has been who are struggling with the unrelentingly This issue of The Professional Mountaineer offset by planting native mild freeze-thaw cycles throughout Europe. woodland in the UK, through provides some blueprints for survival. Enjoy! the Woodland Trust and the I am writing this editorial in Mumbai, Woodland Carbon scheme. which has experienced the mildest winter Steve Long in memory. Glacial recession is accelerating Technical editor OUR COVER OUR SPRING ISSUE CONTRIBUTORS INCLUDE Ben Tibbetts Iain Afshar Sarah-Jane Dobner Richard Goodey Sam Hillcox Ben is an adventure photographer, Iain is Mountaineering and Sarah­Jane is especially fond As the co­founder of Lost Sam is an ecologist, outdoor artist and British Mountain Guide Climbing Instructor, Inter­ of sea cliff trad climbing, Earth Adventures, Richard's educator and aspirant based in Chamonix and the UK. national Mountain Leader has been climbing for over hunger to explore the natural International Mountain www.bentibbetts.com and photographer. He runs 20 years and is a Rock world began during Leader and lived in the his own activity company Climbing and Climbing Wall childhood. At 17, he went on Cevennes National Park in Bristol, as well as offering Instructor. Her articles and an expedition to climb in France for 16 years. It was a range of photo graphy poetry have been published untouched mountains in the a joy and a privilege! workshops and tuition. in Climb, Summit and UKC. Karakoram region of Pakistan. SPRING 2020 THE PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEER » 3 IN THIS ISSUE 8 10 14 DESTINATIONS BUSINESS SENSE 8 Trolls, Tunnels & Travels on the 26 Expedition Economics 13 16 Trollaskagi Richard Hamilton Richard Goodey 10 Cerro Torre Via Dei Ragni (Ragni Route) GUIDANCE Stu McAleese 30 Teaching skills for instructors and coaches: helping people TECHNICAL SKILLS learn efficiently Guy Jarvis 13 The Climbing Wall Development 32 Being a climber: Progressive Instructor Steve Pease lead coaching Richard Ensoll and Danny Towers 14 Placing Trad Gear Joe Brown 34 Improve your Photography 16 Why are climbers being Iain Afshar lowered off the end of the rope? Trevor Massiah 38 Top Tips for Transitions Sarah-Jane Dobner OUR PLANET Book reviews 39 • The Alps by Jim Langley 18 The Environment – ‘Need to and Paul Gannon know, Nice to know’? Mike Raine 40 • Crack Climbing by Pete Whittaker 21 Merlin Sue Haysom • Mastermind by Jerry Moffatt 18 22 European Vultures Sam Hillcox 4 » THE PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEER SPRING 2020 21 22 26 30 32 34 38 If you would like to contribute Feeling to the next issue, please contact Fancy advertising? Belinda Buckingham at If you would like to advertise in the next issue, please contact [email protected] inspired? Caroline Davenport at [email protected] SPRING 2020 THE PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEER » 5 NEWS THE ASSOCIATION OF MOUNTAINEERING BRITISH MOUNTAIN INSTRUCTORS (AMI) GUIDES (BMG) With a year to go, the implementation of mandatory CPD as a As 2019 came to a close Peter Cliff BMG member was voted in at the membership requirement, the new CPD Policy and associated AGM in Bariloche as President of the IFMGA, the first to come from a resources have been produced and are now available on the website. non-Alpine country. The AMI brand partner contracts with DMM, Rab and Lowe Alpine While this was happening in the early stages of the Bariloche have been refreshed and re-signed for the next 3 – 5 years, with a summer there were members guiding in the Antarctic and starting range of mutual benefits both to AMI and the brand partners. the winter season in the Northern hemisphere. Both in Scotland and A huge amount of work has gone into the retendering for the the Alps an early winter season was welcome although conditions insurance provision for members of the associations and our thanks became a little more fickle through January. go to David Hormigo for leading this from AMI’s perspective. BMG courses have still being successful in the Alps and Scotland The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor trainee workshop in climbing, skiing and avalanche education. The BMG are helping programme for 2020 has been finalised with over 55 events on offer. the newly developing Russian guides association with this very Trainee support is an important and successful aspect of AMI and has subject being held in the Caucus. BMG ski and avalanche training gone from strength to strength in recent years. have been helped by the Fred Harper and Chris Walker Memorial Finally the annual Delivery Plan will be published at the AGM in late funds in Switzerland and Scotland. March, and is again on the website. This is based on the three yearly The climate emergency situation is demanding careful planning member survey which is due again this year. Please watch out for it and thought on selection of climbing and ski venues throughout the and take part – your views are important to the association! world; with some old favourites no longer being possible or rarely doable. Phil Baker (Chairman) Thoughtful and sustainable practices should be very much at the forefront of planning for the future protection of the environment we choose to practice in. Mark Charlton (President) © Hannes Bonitz © Hannes Charlton © Mark AMI is the representative body for professionally qualified Mountaineering The BMG is a member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides and Climbing Instructors in the UK and Ireland and is committed to (IFMGA), currently comprising 24 nations worldwide, with growing member- promoting good practice in all mountaineering instruction.
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