Adventure Cyclist GO the DISTANCE

waypoints 8 open road gallery 31 final mile 32

Adventure Cyclist GO THE DISTANCE. JUNE 2011 www.adventurecycling.org $4.95

a lternative rides: Try a Different Kind of Cycle PLUS:

Cuba photo Essay

Road Test: Jamis Aurora Elite

riding trikes in idaho SHARE THE JOY GET A CHANCE TO WIN Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes

n For every cyclist you sign up through a gift membersip or who joins through your referral, you score one entry to win a Novara Verita (rei.com/ product/807242) valued at over $1,100. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2012.

n Recruit the most new members in 2011, and you’ll win a $500 Adventure Cycling shopping spree.

n Each month we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Cascade Designs, Showers Pass, and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win!

Adventure Cycling Association adventurecycling.org/joy

Adventure Cycling Corporate Members Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward role in the success of our nonprofit organization. Our Corporate special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key support- about how your business can become a corporate supporter of M atthe w K ade y ers. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or do and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher call (800) 755-2453.

TITANIUM GOLD

SILVER BRONZE

3G Mobility Hike & Bike Italy Urban Bicycle Outfitters

2 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 6:2011 contents June 2011 · Volume 38 Number 5 · www.adventurecycling.org

Adventure Cyclist is published nine times each year by the Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscription to Adventure Cyclist and dis- counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved. Our Cover A cyclist rides through verdant mountains on Cuba’s La Farola Pass. Photo by Matthew Kadey. (left) Cycling by a weather-beaten propaganda poster in Cuba.

MISSION The mission of Adventure Cycling Association is to inspire people of all M atthe w K ade y ages to travel by bicycle. We help cyclists explore the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, Railbiking Across Patagonia by Jack McNeel and self-discovery. 10 A dedicated group takes a cycling trip on rails across the rugged tip of South America. CAMPAIGNS Our strategic plan includes three TRAVERSING CUBA by Matthew Kadey major campaigns: 18 While governments remain mired in the past, cyclists are finding a jewel in the Caribbean. Creating Bike Routes for America Getting Americans Bicycling Supporting Bicycling Communities 26 Triking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes by Carl Schroeder On the TaterTOT, tricycle riders rule the day — and the trail. How to Reach Us To join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us online at www.adventurecycling.org or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776 departments LETTERS email: [email protected] companions wanted LETTER from the Editor 07 04 Subscription Address: Adventure Cycling Association WAYPOINTS LETTERs from the readers P.O. Box 8308 08 05 Missoula, MT 59807 31 Open Road Gallery 06 LETTER from the DIRECTOR Headquarters: Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St. 36 Classifieds/ Marketplace COLUMNS Missoula, MT 59802 32 Final Mile / Bob Salipante Touring for two on a recumbent tandem

34 Road Test / Patrick O’Grady A closer look at the Jamis Aurora Elite

2 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 Adventure Letter from the Editor Cyclist Recumbents and Railbikes Rule June 2011 volume 38 number 5 Not into standard bikes? Try something else www.adventurecycling.org

editor michael deme mdeme@ adventurecycling.org art director greg siple While thinking about bicycling and what it gsiple@ adventurecycling.org technical editor means to people, I got to thinking about the john schubert schubley@ aol.com usage of the word itself. When people use this FIELD editor michael mccoy word, what are they really talking about? Do they use it mmccoy@ adventurecycling.org contributing writers inclusively as a term that means any self-propelled vehicle dan d'ambrosio nancy clark willie weir jan heine with wheels? I think the more about on page patrick o'grady answer is yes, at least 26. (Idaho gets you Copy Editor phyllis picklesimer usually. If a bunch of Tater and TOT stands advertising director people are wondering for Tricycles Optional rick bruner 509.493.4930 what to do together and Tour.) According to advertising@ adventurecycling.org someone says, “Hey, their website, the ride STAFF I know, let’s go bicy- is, “An informal, semi- executive director cling!” it’s doubtful that organized, multi-day jim sayer they’d exclude someone rally, primarily for jsayer@ adventurecycling.org chief operations officer who rides a tricycle. adult recumbent sports sheila snyder, cpa The better word to use touring tricycling membership & Development julie huck amanda lipsey is cycling, but it doesn’t enthusiasts, friends, amy corbin joshua tack get used as often as it should. Cycling and families.” From Carl Shroeder’s thomas bassett media is a much more inclusive word that description, it seems most people winona bateman michael mccoy describes riding any type of self-pro- choose the option. publications pelled vehicle with wheels, no matter In his “Final Mile” essay on page 32, michael deme greg siple derek gallagher how many it has. Bob Salipante describes the joys of rid- intern: heather andrews it department These days, it seems there are more ing a recumbent tandem with his wife john sieber richard darne types of cycles available than ever. as stoker. Based on some of the com- matt sheils During the touring season, many ments heard throughout their trip, it tours mo mislivets paul hansbarger interesting machines arrive at the seems that the machine is less amazing madeline mckiddy Adventure Cycling Association head- than the amount of time the Salipantes routes and mapping carla majernik jennifer milyko quarters (with their riders, of course) happily spend together. virginia sullivan kevin mcmanigal that attract crowds of people oohing But for the truly exotic, Jack casey greene nathan taylor sales and marketing and aahing or in some way acting like McNeel’s story on page 10 about rail- teri maloughney they’re in the famous Steve Martin biking in Patagonia is the gold-medal cyclosource ted bowman sarah raz sketch (“What the hell is that?”) Years winner. I became somewhat fascinated office manager ago, an Adventure Cycling staffer who by this activity during the years I beth petersen is no longer with us got so excited, spent editing the Cyclists’ Yellow Pages board of directors he wanted to start what he called and McNeel’s story about four rail- president “Contraption Fest.” I wasn’t sure then if cyclists in South America piqued my carol york vice president it would have attracted enough partici- curiosity again. jennifer garst pants to officially be called a fest, but Summer may finally be coming so, secretary that was over 10 years ago, and cur- whatever cycle you ride, I hope you’re andy baur treasurer rently a heck of a lot more people are putting it to good use. andy huppert riding cycles of various configurations board members jason boucher todd copley that maybe now is the right time. Michael Deme george mendes jeff miller In a sense, that’s what goes on in [email protected] donna o'neal wally werner Idaho each year as people assemble for Adventure Cyclist magazine the TaterTOT ride, which you can read

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letters from our Readers

Stay away from the white line Snohomish makes the effort, GPS plus a netbook

Bicycling with Children ty, thereby increasing bicycle safety; nies via Skype, listen to National I was appalled to see the picture on enhance mutual respect and a posi- Public Radio, edit photos, and find the April issue’s table of contents tive relationship between motorists accommodations and restaurants page of a family allowing children to and cyclists; and encourage cycling (again via Google Maps). The extra be lying down on the road next to for commuting, recreation, and fit- three pounds was well worth it. the white line. ness. Moreover, the 605 worked like a In our local bike club, we have Snohomish is the southern termi- champ. Batteries easily lasted all a saying, “six feet over or six feet nus of a wonderful (almost complet- day, it enabled me to ride routes on under,” meaning get at least six ed) 27-mile rail-trail, the Snohomish tiny farm roads that would have feet off the road or die. Yes, this is County Centennial Trail. Come and been impossible to follow using where we ride, but being up on our visit us. paper maps, and it took the stress bicycles does give us a little more Don Kusler out of navigating through the maze visibility with drivers. Lying next to Snohomish, Washington of medieval streets to find my hotel. the white line is just not safe. Not worrying about navigation I would hope that other bicycling More about GPS allowed me to enjoy the ride all the families do not take this picture as Timothy Perrin’s overview of GPS more. a remotely acceptable practice — no units takes issue with need to lug David Oppenheimer matter how remote the road. around a computer to interact with Palo Alto, California Bart Coddington the Garmin Edge 605 or 705 GPS Aptos, California units. For a recent tour in Romagna, Italy, I took a three-pound netbook Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail Share the Road primarily for this purpose. To my and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. On page 17 of the March 2010 issue, surprise, the netbook proved to We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do you published an article “Giving be as valuable as the GPS. Internet not want your comments to be printed in Adventure Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your Peace a Chance,” including a sign access was available in every hotel name and address with your correspondence. Email distributed in our local area. and farm stay. I used Google Maps’ your comments, questions, or letters to editor@adven- Recently our city has taken an superior routing capability to create turecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure Cyclist, additional step, installing “Welcome itineraries on the smallest possible P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. to Snohomish, Thank You for roads before launching the Garmin Sharing the Road” signs at two main MapSource program that interacts entrances. This action was taken to with the GPS unit. The netbook also welcome people entering the city; allowed me to keep up with work increase awareness of bicycle activi- email, call back to the U.S. for pen-

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letter from the Director Solstice Snapshots Great and scary news — and a fateful trip

Soon it will be summer solstice, the marker for one of the best seasons of the year (at least further north) to ride a bike. The last few weeks have also been a time of frantic, fulfilling, and even sober- ing activity, with tours under way, new people on staff, and alarming policy decisions on the horizon. Here are a few snapshots from my perch: Two jolting reminders to History is made: First, some awesome with many allies on Capitol Hill, from news. As I reported last month, the both parties. But we need to be vigilant. live life to the fullest. American Association of State Highway I am grateful to those of you who remind and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) your elected officials how important it is was considering approval of the first new to invest in cycling. Please keep it up! And official U.S. Bicycle Routes in 29 years. we’ll keep you posted, especially at blog. Well, AASHTO approved six fabulous adventurecycling.org. routes in Alaska, Maine, Michigan, New As fate would have it: During my trip, Hampshire, and Virginia. Our members, I had two powerful reminders not to get staff, donors, and volunteers played a huge too bogged down in the scary stuff. On my role in making this happen, so pat yourself flight to DC, I sat next to a woman who on the back and celebrate! went into convulsions and nearly died. Tours roll out: Our first cross-country With the help of passengers, she got off tour — Southern Tier Van — is already the plane alive and, I think, alright — but finished, and ace leader Arlen Hall called it was a jolting reminder to live life to the it one of the best he’s ever been on. fullest. Then later in the trip, I had a few TransAm tours are on the road, supported hours free so I decided to visit my long-time tours from Oregon to Vermont are coming friend, Pat Dyson, in Alexandria, Virginia. up, and cyclists are rolling into Adventure Pat was a frail, elderly woman with whom Cycling’s HQ. It’s a grand time to be riding I learned the Chinese language (she flour- — make sure you’ve got a tour planned, or ished, I lapsed). Over the last few months, come ride with us! I tried calling and emailing her, to no avail. Jim on U.S. Bicycle Route 76 in Virginia in Adventure Cycling grows: With So I did what any self-respecting cyclist 2009, enjoying life on the now-growing U.S. member support, we’re adding staff and would do and rode the bike path from DC Bicycle Route System. interns to serve you, in areas like mapping, to Old Town Alexandria. When I got to her policy, and information technology. Our home, the door was answered by a stranger Board of Directors also recently directed setting up an estate sale; Pat had died after a staff to begin the process of adding new fall only a couple of months earlier. space to our beloved headquarters in Pat used to live vicariously through my downtown Missoula. If you’ve ever seen stories and always told me how lucky I our cramped digs, you’ll know how critical am to work for something I love. She was this is. We’re excited about this effort and so right — and I thought about that all will let you know more in the near future. the way back to DC. RIP, Pat — and carpe Now the scary stuff: I’m writing diem to all of us. Let’s get out and glory in this on the way back from Washington, a bike ride! DC, where some politicians are stridently attacking the idea of dedicated national Jim Sayer investment in bike facilities. As part of Executive Director America Bikes, we are pushing back — [email protected]

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 Companions Wanted

Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978

New York to San Francisco I’m a 24-year-old Tour de Tummy – Southern Europe Highlights interested in enjoying each day’s ride and finish- male law-school graduate traveling from New would be an early September start in Athens, ing as friends. If interested email dstromberg44@ York to San Fransisco, taking the Atlantic Greece, tastes of the islands, then off to gmail.com. Coast Route from New York City to Richmond, Barcelona via Provence and certainly Marseille. Virginia, and then the TransAmerica Route to As we burn through calories, why not indulge Biking Around Europe on Gap Year Two Pueblo, and then the Western Express to San in food and wine appetites? Expect to meet fel- 18-year-old girls looking to bike-bum around Francisco. I’m looking to leave in late August or low couch surfers along this trails-and-rails Europe after graduating high school this very early September and would love to travel mosey for unhurried adventurers. The “harried” year, either September to November, 2011 or with someone for at least part of the distance need not apply. Experienced single male, early February to May, 2012. Both of us have cycled and share this wonderful experience. I ride at 60s. I’ve enjoyed a self-supported coast-to-coast across America before and miles per day will about 12 to 15 MPH. If interested email U.S. tour in 2008 and published a blog at crazy vary. Looking to have fun and see as much as we [email protected]. guyonabike.com. Meet/ride/train summer in can with lots of camping and a relatively small Maine for preparation. If interested email daily budget. Looking for companions who are Australia June through December, 2012. I’m [email protected]. also graduating this year and taking a gap year, a 24-year-old male and I want to cycle 14,000 but others in the age range are also welcome. If kilometers over a period of six months. I have Southern Tier 45-year-old male with a true pas- interested email [email protected]. done two months in Australia for fun but it was sion for cycling looking for riding partner(s) to so awesome that it has turned into a bit of a ride the Southern Tier starting about October dream to finish the ride from Darwin to Perth, 1. Flexible on total days but thinking of 65 to Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, and Cairns. The 75, from west to east, averaging approximately Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- more people the better, for safety and fun. I’m 65 miles per day, while allowing for some days not verify, that the persons above are truthfully representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure on a budget so I estimate 4,000 AUS dollars for for sightseeing or to wait out bad weather. Cycling members. You can see more ads and post the whole trip (20 dollars a day). If interested Planning on tent camping most days. Also cook- new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp email [email protected]. ing (or not) is okay. I’m flexible and willing to anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, compromise on details for the right fit. Mostly P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

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6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy WayPoints

MASS BICYCLE RIDE The fifth annual MassBike Pike, a four-day bicycle tour running from August 11 through 14, will explore the quiet and scenic backroads of western Massachusetts and the Berkshires. The tour caters to cyclists of all abilities, offering two or three route options each day. The shorter rides range from 25 to 45 miles; the longer ones are from 45 to 70 miles. The terrain tack- les ranges from flat to quite steep, so even the short route options can be challenging. Overnight stops will be at local schools in Warren, Paxton, and Orange. Other towns along the way include Stockbridge, Great je ff w i ll s Barrington, Williamstown, Velomobilists pull over to talk about their machines with another kind of cyclist. Lenox, Lee, North Adams, and Pittsfield. ARE YOU READY FOR ROAM? The registration fee includes luggage trans- Coast to Coast by Velomobile riders may be heading your way port, most meals, camping “Hello, Missoula bikers! will not go unnoticed as they for years. I think that traditional privileges, and a tour T-shirt. Next summer, Roll Over ride from Portland, Oregon, to bikes are obsolete and that Proceeds from the ride ben- America (ROAM) is coming to Washington, DC, in an esti- recumbents in general, and efit the Mass Bike Coalition. town on August 1 and 2. We’d mated, and blazing, 30 days’ velomobiles in particular, are For more information or to really like to meet with you time. the way of the future. ROAM sign up, visit www.massbike folks, as we will take our first To give you an idea of will expose many Americans pike.org. Be aware, how- rest day in your city.” This brief where this group of riders is to the velomobile concept and ever, that only 125 lucky message, signed by tour cap- coming from, consider these demonstrate their capabilities.” riders will get spots and tain Josef Janning, forewarned words from participant Daniel Some 60 participants from that registration closes July Adventure Cycling headquar- Owen Fredrikson of Dahlgren, Europe, Canada, and the U.S. 24 — so if you’re too late, ters about the pending arrival Virginia: “I’m getting back had signed up for ROAM as of put it on your calendar for of a mixed group of Europeans from two years in Afghanistan. April. To read about them and next year! and North Americans partici- ROAM sounded like a lot of to view photos of their cycles, pating in the “Coast to Coast fun, and it was a good excuse many of which are unique and by Velomobile” event. We to finally buy a velomobile, interesting, visit www.rollover think it’s safe to say that they which I’ve been drooling over america.eu.

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 VELO VINO OPENS IN NAPA VALLEY TRAILS IN Clif Bars, handlebars, and tasting bars WALES Recently coming to our atten- Gary Erickson and Kit Crawford, tion: an enterprise in Wales the owners of Clif Bar & called MudTrek, which is part Company and the Clif Family accommodation (“think of a ski Winery & Farm, have announced chalet for mountain bikers”) and the opening of their Velo Vino part guided tour. destination tasting room in St. “Based on the doorstep of Helena, California. the world-renowned Brechfa Open to visitors from 10:00 Trails, MudTrek provides amazing, fully-catered mountain- AM to 6:00 PM daily (with extended summer hours), Velo biking weekends,” it says at the Vino offers tastings of Clif Family enterprise’s website. “We offer wines, along with pairings of luxurious accommodations in a Gary and Kit’s gourmet food stunning location at affordable products. Not your everyday prices, with some free guiding tasting room, Velo Vino pays thrown in as well.” b r iana ma ie photog aph y tribute to the owners’ love of Curious about these Brechfa Trails, we dug around a bit and bicycling. Cyclists visiting Velo slowing down and spending so as you map out your bike ride learned that the Brechfa Forest Vino can pick up maps of local time with family and friends over and grab a few Clif Bars,” added is situated in a relatively little- bike routes and customized a great bottle of wine,” said Kit. “Then finish your ride back at visited rural area of west Wales, rides to destinations including Gary. “With so many cyclists Velo Vino and relax with a glass punctuated by hills peaking out the Clif Family Farm on Howell riding through Napa Valley, we of wine in our sensory garden. at around 1,200 feet. Deep Mountain. Velo Vino also offers recognize that cycling and wine “We want Velo Vino to be the valleys cutting through forest items for sale, including espres- are a natural fit. Because cycling source for starting and ending ensure ample climbing and so drinks, food products from is such a passion of ours, we that perfect day in Napa Valley.” descending. The four main trails the farm, and specially-designed wanted to create a central hub For more information, in the forest’s system range from bike jerseys. A bike rental pro- for congregating and connecting visit www.facebook.com/ the easy Derwen Trail to the gram is expected to be up and [wine and cycling].” VeloVinoNapaValley. demanding Raven Trail, rated rolling later this year. “Imagine starting your day at extreme. And there’s plenty “Velo Vino is a place for Velo Vino with a shot of espres- more good riding in the general vicinity, in the Brecon Beacons, Black Mountains, and elsewhere. Andy Livo of Manchester, PUSHKAR UPDATE England, had this to say about “Energizer Bunny on a bike” makes good on his word the Brechfa Trails at www. mbpost.com: “If I had to choose

je ff w i ll s The last time we wrote about people around the which trail to do, it would be the Pushkar Shah in Waypoints world. Upon returning, I Red [12-mile Gorlech Trail, rated was in March 2008: “The successfully ascended difficult] without hesitation. This Nepalese rider, who was the Mt. Everest on 17th route has three major climbs, two born in a stable, set out in of May 2010, taking of which are on fire roads and 1998 on an intended 11-year 192 flags of all over the one up switchback singletrack, bicycle odyssey. … This mis- world.” but the payoff is definitely worth sion is not about material Pushkar noted that it. The downhill sections are awe- gain or international fame,” he is now busy sorting some. The whole route takes Pushkar said. “It’s simply through thousands of about two hours to complete.” The accommodation at pushka r shah about spreading the message photographs and hours of peace. … I have no official of video footage to MudTrek, called Bay Tree sponsor and have thus far learned about the completion produce a documen- Barn, is “a beautifully furnished, been able to pursue my dream of my 11-years-long journey on tary about his adventure. “The cozy mountaintop retreat with through the kindness and gen- bicycle through 151 countries main objective of making this incredible views in the heart of erosity of the many strangers (all continents, adding up to documentary is to start a fund the stunning Carmarthenshire who have befriended me along 221,000 kilometers [137,250 for a school [for orphans and countryside. It is single story and the way.” miles]. Carrying a national flag, other kids affected by conflict], sleeps up to six in one double We’re happy to report I proudly introduced my coun- which I am planning to estab- bedroom and one twin bedroom, that in January we received try as the land of Mt. Everest. I lish in my village in a remote plus sofa bed.” A second barn this update from Pushkar: firmly believe that my success- part of Dolakha, Nepal.” accommodation also sleeping six “Namaste! Happy New Year ful adventure not only inspired For more information, visit is slated to open later this year. 2011! I believe you have Nepalese youth, but also other www.pushkarshah.com. For more information, visit www.mudtrek.com.

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 The Adventure of a Lifetime Railbiking Across Patagonia by Jack McNeel Photos by Peter Hoffman ot in a million years would I ever have imagined that I would someday be railbiking this romanti- “Ncally remote railroad through the wilds of Patagonia,” Peter Hoffman exclaimed. But that’s how he celebrated his 73rd birthday with three other team members — facing winds that threatened to sweep them off the narrow-gauge tracks, nerve-shattering bridge crossings over rushing rivers, and unkempt rails on the nearly abandoned La Trochita route. The railroad, given international acclaim by Paul Theroux’s book, The Old Patagonian Express, crosses some of the most desolate country in South America — all with a striking backdrop of the Andes. La Trochita ceased operating regularly in the early 1990s and now only operates seasonal tourist trains on a short section of the line. Railbiking, for those unfamiliar with this type of cycling, involves modifying a bicycle to ride atop a rail with an outrigger to the other rail and a leveling device for adjustment when riding around the banked curves of a railroad. The concept is simple, but the technology is complex. The four cyclists who embarked on the 250-mile ride represented an impressive background in railbiking experience. Two Railbiking Across Patagonia were Americans, two were Swedes. Dr. Dick Smart and Peter Hoffman were the Americans. Dick is often referred to Photos by Peter Hoffman as “the father of railbiking in the U.S.” Railbiking was actually fairly common in the late 1800s, and Sears and Roebuck even offered adaptations to make bicycles operable on railroad tracks in the early 1900s. That all changed with the advent of automobiles. 50 years elapsed before a new patent was issued for railbikes — to Dick in 1980. He estimated he has now ridden over 30,000 miles on rails. Peter was one of the country’s top bicycle riders in the 1960s and likely would have gone to the Olympics if he had not been involved in a collision with a car the day before he was to leave for the time trials on the East Coast. He later was one of the originators of Bicycling magazine. Arne Nilsson has much the same background in Sweden that Dick has in the U.S. and is called “the father of railbiking in Europe.” They met at a railbike conven- tion in the early 1990s and have ridden together on several occasions since. The fourth member is a bicycling friend of Arne’s, Morgan Gustavsson. They range in age from 62 to 73. A bridge too far? Canyon winds challenged the nerves of the riders. Rest stop. The village of Ojo de Aqua provided respite for the riders.

The four met in Buenos Aires in late couldn’t get it there), clothes for every con- November of 2009, their railbikes stowed in dition, gloves, an incredible assortment of suitcases, prepared to ride across Patagonia. tools — both metric and U.S. standard. On “Everything we had when we left the plane the airplane, we each had two 50-pound in Buenos Aires, we took with us on the bags plus about 25 pounds of carry-on lug- bikes,” Dick explained. “First, we had a gage. Once it was assembled, we carried 24-hour bus ride to Esquel, the jump-off between 90 and 100 pounds of gear on each site. bike, but it felt pretty good because you “With La Trochita management support- liked the stability during strong winds,” ive of our railbiking, it was an opportunity he said. for an adventure of a lifetime,” Peter com- Dick had traveled to Patagonia twice in mented. preparation for this ride. In 2005, he rode The track across Patagonia requires La Trochita on one of its infrequent trips. additional adaptations for the narrow gauge “I asked ahead if I could bring a railbike. of the rails and conditions encountered on I also asked if I could get off and stay at the tracks. It is not kept clear by train use, a little village and have them pick me up so the tracks are often covered with sand on the way back. I got to inspect the track or vegetation, presenting a challenge to and figure out some of the difficulties it railbikers. presented,” he said. “I have 34 years of experience with this In 2008, an attempt had to be aborted technology, and I had to use every bit of it when Dick broke the fork on his bicycle, because it was technically a very difficult “and there wasn’t a fork in South America.” track to ride and everything needed to be Those experiences led to the successful just right,” Dick Smart said. journey in 2009. “Arne was trip leader and prepared The picturesque town of Esquel was

a list of things to take. I had good maps to be the start, but because a tourist train D ick S ma r t Local accommodations. An abandoned from Trains Unlimited, 10 liters of water, was making a short round-trip to Nahuel baggage car in Fitalancao provides a perfect purifying pumps, all the camping gear, Pan, the four decided to ride La Trochita. sleeping solution. freeze-dried food from the U.S. (because we It marked Peter’s 73rd birthday, and he was

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12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 Patagonia dreaming. Top Left: A future puestero. Top Right: A satellite phone proves useful on the rails. Above: Carrying 90 to 100 pounds of gear prevented high winds from sweeping the railbikes off the narrow-gauge rails of the La Trochita.

allowed to ride in the locomotive cab of the way at last.” “The condensation on the inside of the old American-built Baldwin engine. Even though the first day’s ride was tents had frozen during the night, but as The remainder of the morning was the shortest distance, just 20 miles, it was the sun rose over the mountains, we could

D ick S ma r t devoted to assembling bikes and organiz- nearly dark when they reached their goal feel its warming grace. It was our first ing equipment. Bikes were removed from of La Cancha and its abandoned station. night sleeping on the ground, and for a suitcases. The second suitcase was fitted Dick pointed out that during 11 days on bunch of old geezers, this was probably the inside with gear placed inside that. Then the rails they averaged 25 to 30 miles. “It hardest part of the trip,” Peter commented. they were carried on the outriggers of doesn’t seem like a lot, but there were “To ease the pain, we quickly established each bike. Additional items were placed in strong headwinds and we were carrying a a ritual of taking a couple of stiff shots of bags on the handlebars. Arne mounted a bunch of weight. The track at times would whiskey at the end of the ride each day.” Swedish flag on his bike, Peter a U.S. flag, be covered with sand and sometimes with Bridges were always a challenge. “They and Dick an Argentine flag honoring the rocks and thorn bushes. Sometimes you were some of the most nerve-shattering host country. couldn’t even see the rails where they were experiences I have encountered railbik- It was afternoon before the first leg of overgrown with grass,” he said. ing,” Peter says. “There was little between the biking began. Peter talked of that day. Dinner that night was fixed with the you and the rushing waters below. “By then, the wind was howling down off aid of headlamps. Francisco, an Argentine Psychologically, these bridges were killers.” the snow-crowned peaks of the Andes, friend who helped organize the trip, had Dick’s reaction was even more graphic: and the temperature was in the low 40s. ridden with the group on the first day, and “It made your sphincter quiver a little!” It was all we could do not to get blown his friends had arrived earlier to pick him Dick had noted the abundance of wild- off the tracks. The wind attacked us from up. Their campfire was a welcome sight, life on his earlier trips, and it remained a one side and then the other, but nothing and news of warmer weather to come was highlight. could defeat our spirit. The scenery was equally welcomed. That night, however, “The wildlife was spectacular right off strikingly beautiful, and we were on our the weather was anything but warm. the bat. We probably saw more wildlife the

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 Open country. Friendly puesteros roam the land. Curious onlookers. Even Patagonia’s guanacos found the railbikes interesting.

second day than at any time in my life. At in full run with their ears completely back. glasses and headgear became necessities. one point, there were all these birds in the We saw what looked like jackrabbits too, Days were similar in that we were riding air and guanacos crossing in front of and and we saw armadillo and lots of rheas,” long hours, but every day and every night around us and Patagonia hares running he said. was different. Some nights were spent across the track. They looked like a bobcat The weather soon improved and sun- camping alongside the tracks, one night

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14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 up by the vastness. You look way off, miles and miles away like in the Steens Mountains of Oregon, and see a little tiny ranch house. “You’d think there would be no one for 20 miles in any direction, but once in a while a gaucho would see you and make a real interesting sound like ‘hieeee,’ almost like an animal, way up in the mountains to tell you they had noticed you,” he said. Peter added: “Each day, we’d encounter at least one gaucho on horseback roaming the countryside to tend to his flock or herd. They are more correctly called puesteros. Our encounters were always friendly. They were curious and interested in our railbiking and would ride their horses to the tracks or to our camps to greet us.” That curiosity continued throughout the trip. “As we’d come into towns, people along the tracks wanted to stop and talk with us. We did that as much as we could,” Show and tell. Dick Smart explains how railbikes work to a group of villagers. Dick explained. He laughed about another encounter. the tents were set up on an old station plat- Many experiences fill their memories. “We were coming toward Ñorquinco, one of form, and another night they took cover Dick reminisced about the countryside. “It the towns Butch Cassidy and the Sundance from a threatening storm by sleeping in an was spectacular to me how vast Patagonia Kid went into to buy rams for their flock of abandoned baggage car. Two nights were is and how wonderful the landscapes are. sheep. This bus was coming from there, and spent in towns. This little tiny railroad sort of gets gobbled I saw it would cross the track in front of

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14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 me. They saw me and stopped the bus, and have a ranch here while they were evading all these kids, a mother and new baby, and U.S. authorities in the early 1900s. the driver, they all got off the bus and took Children were also a big part of the trip. turns riding the railbikes. It was like a big “In those abandoned railroad communities festival.” And yes, Butch and Sundance did where there were still a few people liv-

Nuts & Bolts: Railbiking Patagonia

guide wheel rolling snuggly against the inside of the rail. It’s the same principle as the front. “A leveling knob is located behind the seat. It controls the tilt of the bike. Rails are banked on curves and it’s necessary to be continually adjusting the tilt of the bike to compensate for that banking, uneven road- beds, and for violent winds.” “Then finally there is an outrigger extend- ing from the bike’s frame to the opposite rail with wheels that roll on the rail to hold you upright.” The foursome used foldable bikes that D ick S ma r t The technical side of railbiking: Dick convert easily from rail to road use. Dick’s Smart has devoted 34 years to inventing bike is a 16-inch Dahon and Arne uses and modifying to the railbiking equipment he 18- inch Birdie. Both are folding bikes (see used on his journey across Patagonia. Arne page 29). Nilsson’s railbikes are different mechanically but function similarly. Here Dick gives some When to go: Spring and summer in explanation of his railbike equipment. Patagonia are spectacular; consider shoul- “The guide-wheel carriage was especially der season to avoid peak travel. built for the La Trochita. The front wheel is not mobile and rests on the floor of the car- Where to stay: Hotels are limited in El riage and thus doesn’t touch the rail. Four Maitén making Esquel a more attractive guide wheels are attached to the carriage. base for exploration. The inboard two are the principal wheels and are angled slightly toward the rail. They How to get there: Flights from the U.S. adjust automatically, moving up when there to Argentina start around U.S. $700. is no groove beside the rail, like at a road Aerolineas Argentina offers flights from crossing, and then back down when the Buenos Aires to Esquel from U.S. $200. groove is present. The dimensions have to www.aerolineasargentinas.com. be within millimeters, otherwise it doesn’t perform right. Railbikes are sensitive that Useful information: way and have to be tuned in. l Argentina Tourist Information “The guide-wheel carriage rolls along the 12 W. 56th St., New York, NY 10019 top surface of the rail on two travel wheels (212) 603-0443www.turismo.gov.ar/eng/ that are angled slightly toward the outside menu.htm. edge of the rail. This mechanism keeps l Railways of the Far South: www.railways the inboard guide wheels running snuggly ofthefarsouth.co.uk/07agrandiose.html. against the inside surface of the rail. l The Old Patagonia Express: www.paul “A little plow is attached to the front of theroux.com/books/book-102.html. the carriage. It’s flexible, and when down it’s l La Trochita: latrochita.com/elibro.htm. exactly on the surface of the rail. The rail can l Peter in Patagonia: epeterh.blogspot.com. be totally covered with rocks and manure and everything else and it just blasts every- About Railbiking: thing off leaving a reasonably clean surface.” l The Amazing Bentley Railbike: The rear bicycle wheel sits on the rail to rrbike.freeservers.com. provide propulsion and is kept on the rail by l Links to railbiking websites: a self adjusting inboard guide wheel. rrbike.freeservers.com/Railbike_LINKS.htm. “The rear wheel has been tweaked a tiny l Railbike safety: railbike.com/safety.htm bit to the outside by loosening the hub l Buying railbikes: railbike.com/buying.htm nut. This pulls it slightly left and keeps the

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 ing, the children fast became our Maitén but little elsewhere. friends,” Peter commented. “Dick ROUTE OF LA TROCHITA “Some of the towns were so in particular was great with the tiny they had practically noth- kids and spent hours working ing to sell. In one place, we with them. He had brought small bought tomato paste in the toys as gifts that he gave out to smallest store in the world. eager hands. The kids did not One little town had a store so find the language barrier a deter- small that the guy just kept his rent and relished the interaction merchandise in a cabinet in his with foreign strangers.” house. He had just a few cook- El Maitén was the midway point ies,” Dick laughed. and the largest town on the route. Dick has ridden in a num- It held a shop for locomotives and ber of countries and many lots of old railroad cars and para- states, sometimes in rather phernalia. There was also a hotel remote areas. He summed up about four blocks from the tracks. the ride across Patagonia very “We had to transport our bikes simply. “I’m proudest of this and luggage to our lodging. The trip because it was so techni- local kids were eager to help. It cally difficult, the rails were so took as many as four small boys to tiny, and there were so many carry one of our heavy suitcases, obstacles,” he said. held flat with a boy at each cor- “Many have called our rail- D ick S ma r t ner. They earned one peso each biking expedition the adventure for their services,” Peter said. of a lifetime. I can’t argue with El Maitén was also the point where our heavy stuff over the hills. He camped that. It didn’t disappoint,” Peter concluded. health issues forced Morgan to quit, but with us when the track was close enough to he wanted to remain a part of the team. get to.” Morgan’s help in reducing weight Dick explained how Morgan helped. “He greatly eased the second half of the journey Jack McNeel is a lifelong Idaho resident with a long career in wildlife conservation. He has maintained a took a little country bus on a dirt road 200 that ended in Ingeniero Jacobacci. love of bicycling and regularly rides trails in the Idaho miles to get a rent-a-car and took some of They were able to purchase food in El Panhandle. He has also railbiked with Dr. Dick Smart. ©2011 Salsa Cycles

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David and Pierre ride the beach north toward Anchor Point Salsa is dedicated to keeping the spirit of adventure alive in bicycling. on an overnighter out of Homer, Alaska – Photo by Kid We make bikes to help you get there. Bike shown – Mukluk ADVENTURE BY BIKE SALSACYCLES.COM

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 TRAVERSINGCUBA MOUNTAINS, COAST & CULTURE

Photography by

1 Matthew Kadey

2 3 ore than five decades after a caught-in-a-time-warp setting. Even a feisty, cigar-loving Fidel today, many more Cubans, young and Castro spearheaded a suc- aged, use two wheels instead of four. cessful revolution, Cuba Spend a couple weeks, or better yet CUBA remains a politically-charged a few months, cycling in the Caribbean’s landM full of contradictions and misunder- largest country, and soon there will be standings. Despite a few warts and con- a little more cha cha cha in your pedal tinued hoopla surrounding politics, Cuba stroke as you soak in decaying colonial is rapidly gaining cult status among sun mansions, passionate domino matches and culture seekers as the jewel of the between cigar-puffing grandpas, and Caribbean. Cyclotourists are also catch- jungle-covered peaks under bluebird ing on that this island nation 90 miles skies. Cool off after a ride in bathtub- from Key West, Florida, as the crow flies, warm seas or refuel on elephantine provides the perfect mixture of scenery, portions of rice, tomatoes, and chicken history, and kind-hearted denizens. dished out by your casa particulares For the cyclist, roads populated only host. Spend evenings at the ballpark or by the occasional 1950s Cadillac chug- sipping mojitos while you get your salsa ging alongside an ox cart, numerous on and then learn to embrace the pre- and welcoming home-stays, charming dawn cacophony of the roosters. cities blissfully free of tourist-oriented Above all it’s the spontaneity, indomi- kitsch, and a landscape that varies mar- table spirit, and romantic layers of the velously with each bend in the road, all people that make Cuba a worthy addi- makes Cuba an intoxicating option for a tion to any cycling bucket list. Someday two-wheeled adventure. Where else do soon, one only hopes, more U.S. cyclists you have opalescent beaches, cathedrals, will be able to discover what made Ernest and mountains cheek by jowl? All in Hemingway want “to stay here forever.”

1. Cuba’s most impressive coastal ride is located in the isolated Gamma province. 2. Tobacco is a major cash crop in Cuba’s western Pinar del Rio province. 3. A rare dry- season downpour brings with it a special gift near Soroa. 4. The cascading pools at Las Terrazas make for a refreshing post-ride swim.

Photography by Matthew Kadey

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6 =\SeSSYb]càT`][$# 1. Riding to the seaside town of Baracoa with former Cuban professional cyclist Frank Correa. &%%"$ " ! 2. Cigars and Cuba are synonymous, especially in Havana. 3. New Year’s Eve in Cuba means W\T].PWYSb]càRW`SQbQ][ one thing: Pig roast time! 4. Rider Tabi Ferguson soaks in the neo-classical architecture of Cienfuegos. 5. Locals gather up coconuts for thirsty tourists at Playa Ancón. 6. Imposing hills are PWYSb]càRW`SQbQ][ a constant companion along Cuba’s stunning Southeast Road to Santiago de Cuba.

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 1

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1. Spectacular limestone mogotes dot much of Cuba’s Valle de Viñales. 2. Some of the world’s best mechanics, including this one in Trinidad, keep thousands of vintage cars chugging along. Some say Cuba is the world’s biggest automotive museum. 3. A detour is required on the ride to Soroa in western Cuba. Roads can be hit and miss throughout the country. 4. surlybikes.com - 1.877.743.3191 Street music is omnipresent in Havana.

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 2

1 3

     

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24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 The real art of the bicycle is for each to have its purpose.

The perfect marriage between humanity and machinery.

1. A fresh seafood dinner is prepared after a long day in the saddle in eastern Cuba. 2. Rider Tabi Ferguson goes off-road in Pinar del Rio province. 3. Cuba’s Southeast Road is in just rough enough condition to keep the tourist vehicles at bay, but riders are rewarded with one of the most impressive rides in the Caribbean. 4. School children on the La Farola American Made. Oregon Made. Handmade. pass near Baracoa. www.co-motion.com

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24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 Triking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes Story and Photos by Carl Schroeder

ave you ever felt like an unwelcome alien Washington, to the coast with a friend one long at the Star Wars cantina? No? Well then, I July day in 1961. H guess you’ve never tried to join a pace line In the 1970s, I spent many weekends riding my on a recumbent trike. Corso Valentino 10-speed the length and breadth Not that I’ve tried it myself, but as a trike rider of Manhattan from my apartment in Greenwich I have noticed an air of unease at bike rallies when Village. The adrenaline rush of racing taxis down trikers appear. I’m not complaining. I’m actually Fifth Avenue rivaled the excitement of downhill grateful for that reaction because the occasional skiing at Killington. During the Bicentennial “No trikers need apply” provided the stimulus for Celebration, that bike carried me up and down TaterTOT, an informal annual gathering of trikers the West Side Highway (closed to traffic for the in Kellogg, Idaho, and the 2010 edition (32go.us/ day) between Battery Park and The Cloisters, tt10/tatertot10.htm) was so much fun I’ve started from Leonard Bernstein’s early-morning reading planning more ambitious adventures. of the Declaration of Independence to views of My attraction to recumbent trikes began soon the tall ships in the Hudson River and an incred- after I climbed on a bicycle for the first time ible fireworks show over the Statue of Liberty. in about 30 years. My mind was full of happy Ah, but that was then, and this was — more biking memories like my 100-mile ride on a than 30 years later. A test ride on my son’s bicy- balloon-tire one-speed Schwinn from Tacoma, cle quickly revealed that my 63-year-old body was no longer happy on a bike — at least not on that one. With the right bike, I’m sure I could have been a happy cyclist again, but that evening I noticed an ad for a recumbent trike. It looked comfortable! I decided to learn more. I was intrigued by trikes after research- ing them online, and I fell in love on my first test ride. The only question was, “Which one to buy?” After trying every model I could find within a two- hour drive, I bought an HP Velotechnik Scorpion fx (hpvelotechnik.com/produk- te/scorpionfx/index_e.html) on July 4, 2008 — Independence Day, the perfect day to buy a human-powered vehicle. Why do I love my trike? It’s huge fun, especially when I hit 50 MPH down the hill outside Mossyrock, Washington, where I live. Like a bike, it’s great cardiovascular exercise — especially going uphill. Unlike a bike, my trike does not cause my body to complain. It’s like sitting on a well-designed lawn chair. My body is happy no matter how long I ride. Plus there’s no fear of weaving or wobbling no matter how slowly I winch myself up a hill, and if I run out of steam I can put on the parking brake, relax, and refuel while I’m ensconced in my comfortable reclining seat. At intersections there’s no need to unclip and put my foot on the ground. I just sit back and relax until the light changes. As I cruise along, I can look straight up at the birds and trees overhead, or twist around to look behind me without fear of losing my balance or straying off course. I was already having great fun and great Laid back and loving it. A TaterTOT rider easily handles a dirt road on his mean machine. exercise on my trike before TaterTOT10, but that event opened my eyes to new the closest thing to a TaterTOT organizer miles east, a gentle climb of about 970 feet. triking horizons. I’ve been able to detect. Wayne negoti- The well-maintained tree-lined trail took The TOT in TaterTOT stands for “Trikes ated group rates at the GuestHouse Inn us right past Excelsior Cycle in Kellogg, Optional Tour” — an event launched in in Kellogg, where the about 80 attendees under I-90, and through Wallace, a funky 2007 by a small group of recumbent trik- stayed. He also created name tags and old mining town where a big crowd of ers sharing good-natured gripes on a Bent distributed a photo gallery of attendees, trikers met for lunch on the way back Rider Online forum (bentrideronline.com) creating the false impression that it was an from Mullan. about their exclusion from some bike ral- organized event. The day was dry and scorching hot, lies. Someone jokingly proposed a rally I arrived at the inn on a Sunday eve- and when I returned to Kellogg I found a that excluded two-wheeled vehicles, and ning in late June, in time for the group crowd of people back from their own rides a semi-organized event along Idaho’s Trail barbecue more or less hosted by David relaxing on their trikes in the shade of the of the Coeur d’Alenes (friendsofcdatrails. Hanson, who volunteered to provide and motel portico. (One of the side benefits org) was arranged. Idaho being the spud grill sausages for that evening’s potluck of triking, you always have a comfortable capital of America, someone suggested the dinner. I soon learned that there was no lawn chair with you.) A few were test- name TaterTOT. agenda, there were no official events, and driving some of the 30 or so trike models The “no bikes allowed” rule was never no one was in charge at TaterTOT. in attendance. serious, but news of a rally especially for Informal group rides were expected That evening, a large group rode six trikers quickly spread. I got wind of it to spontaneously congeal, however, and miles along the trail to dinner at the Snake in March 2010 and was soon welcomed the next morning I set out with several Pit in Enaville, Idaho, a small crossroads into the TaterTOT fold by Wayne Leggett, others on the asphalt trail to Mullan, 17.6 town at the fork of the Coeur d’Alene trail. Campers, kayakers, and fishermen enjoyed the river in the summer heat. I stopped in tiny Cataldo for a cool, delicious huckleberry milkshake at the Mission Inn Restaurant. The Cataldo Mission, a National Historic Landmark, was the first mission in the Northwest, established in 1842. That evening, I decided I was ready for a real challenge. I had overheard talk of Dobson Pass, a six-mile, 1,300-foot climb into the Bitterroot Mountains on two- lane blacktop out of Wallace. Wednesday morning I strapped my CamelBak to the rear luggage rack, dropped Nuun Triberry Electrolyte tabs into two water bottles strapped to the front forks of my trike, threw a couple apples into a pannier, stuffed my pockets with trail mix, energy

bars, and Hammer Gel, and was on the CASE Y G R EENE trail by 8:00 AM. River. The Snake Pit dates back to 1880, ers, and assorted reflectors could have The climb out of Wallace on Nine Mile with a history that includes all the vices easily been mistaken for an alien invasion. Creek Road (Forest Road 456) is scenic and virtues of a frontier saloon. The décor Tuesday’s ride was a leisurely 35-mile but unrelenting. I was soon in granny is still vintage 1880, and judging by the round trip along the trail to the west. gear, enjoying the sound of the bubbling meal that night, it has the best barbecue It was another gorgeous day, and I was creek, the blue sky, and peace. The few west of the Mississippi. We rode back frequently tempted to stop for photos homes along the road soon disappeared through the woods in the dark, and the of the bubbling blue South Fork of the behind me, and the day grew warmer as long string of headlights, taillights,MANTA flash- Coeur d’Alene River that paralleled the I chugged up and up and up through the

MANTA Photo: Colin Meagher

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 non-wedgie BIKES FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION Below is a list of popular recumbents, folders, or other non-standard bikes. e-bent.com, bicycleman.comrecumbents/recumbents.htm, biketcba.org/ If you know of any brands or models missing from this table that are spe- TRICORR/compare.html, recumbentbicyclesource.com, bikeroute.com/ cifically designed for touring or bike travel, email us at magazine@adven Recumbents, foldingcyclist.com, foldsoc.co.uk, atob.org.uk/folding-bikes. turecycling.org. -Mike Deme html, bentrideronline.com. For an extensive list of manufacturers with Other Resources: rtrmag.com, recumbents.com, errcmagazine.com, links, check out ibike.org/library/bike-manufacturers.htm. recumbentjournal.com, recumbentcycling.blogspot.com,

RECUMBENTS, Touring: Maff maafbikes.com, Recumbents, Non-Touring: Recumbents, Build-Your-Own: +49(0)17048 66060. Offers the Bacchetta bacchettabikes.com, Cruising, Sporting, and Viper. ActionBent actionbent.com, Bentech bentechbikes.com. Sets 866-364-9677. Offers the Giro 425-444-0034. include three 22” x 34” blueprints and Bella touring lines. MR Components mrrecumbent and a fully illustrated, step-by- trikes.com, +61 3 59835886. AVD Windcheetah windcheetah. step construction guide. Barcroft barcroftcycles.com, Offers the Swift Touring. co.uk, +44 (0)161 969 9692. 818-994-4171. Offers the Dakota. FOLDING BIKES Nazca Ligfietsen nazca-ligfiet Azub azub.eu, +420 774 2982 Catrike catrike.com, 407-905- sen.nl, +31-522-490266. Offers 29. Airnimal airnimal.com, +44 (0) 0626. Offers the Expedition. the Explorer and Pioneer. 1954-782020. Offers the Joey, Backsafer backsafer.com, 800- the Rhino, the Chameleon, and Challenge challengebikes.com, Optima optima-cycles.nl, 815-2225. custom models for touring. +31 55 521 24 05. Offers the +31(0)251-261222. Offers the

CASE Y G R EENE Berserker berserkercycledesign. Sieran, Mistral, and Ventus. Condor, Dragon, Orca, and Bike Friday bikefriday.com, 800- com, 805-441-0975. Suspension Rider. 777-0258. Offers a variety of Cycle Genius cyclegenius. trike. folding bikes and accessories com, 866-901-2453. Offers the Oracle oraclecycleworks.com, for touring including the Family Brike freedomryder.com, 800- Falcon. 416-804-9321. Offers the Tandem Traveler. 800-5828. Omega. Easy Racers www.easyracers. Birdy offers a variety of folding Cruzbike cruzbike.com, 888- com, 831-722-9797. Offers the RANS ransbikes.com, 785-625- bikes and accessories for touring. 225-2789. Offers the folding Tour Easy. 6346. Offers the Stratus LE and birdybike.com, 503-928-7723. Quest. VRex LE. Flevobike flevobike.nl, +31 0321- Brompton bromptonbicycle. Edge edgerecumbents.com, 337200. Offers the Greenmachine RecumbentUSA recumbentusa. co.uk, +44 (0)20 8232-8484. 865-982-2555. with bags and trailer. com, 800-473-4418. Offers the Offers the P6R and P6R-X. Trike X. Greenspeed greenspeed.com. Hase hasebikes.com, +49 23 09 Moulton moultonbicycles.co.uk, au, 866-314-4323. Offers stan- 93 77 0. Offers the Kettwiesel Slyway slywayprojects.com, +39 +44 (0) 1225 865895. Offers the dard, tandems, and folders. Tour. 0372 29589. Offers the Explorer. TSR-27, TSR-30 and the AM GT Human Powered Machines for touring. HP Velotechnik hpvelotechnik. SteinTrikes steintrikes.com. hpm.catoregon.org, 800-343- com, +49 61 92 97 99 2 0. Offers the Nomad and Explorer. 5568. Dahon dahon.com, 800-442- Offers the Street Machine and 3511. Offers the 700C-wheel foldable Grasshopper. TerraTrike terratrike.com, 800- KMX Trikes kmxus.com, 877-449- Tournado. 945-9910. Offers the Tour and 4188. Just Two Bikes justtwobikes. Tandem. TANDEMS com, 651-426-1548. Offers the Maxarya maxarya.com, 416-737- Tricumbent. Toxy toxy.de, +49 4127 922 83. 5745. Co-Motion co-motion.com, 866- Offers the Miles & Motion and 282-6336. Offers the Mocha and Lightfoot lightfootcycles.com, Rotation. MetaBikes meta-bikes.com, +34 Primera. 406-821-4750. Offers the 937 547 378. Ranger, Greenway, and World Trident tridenttrikes.com, 704- da Vinci davincitandems.com, Traveler. 968-7143. Offers the Stowaway Organic Engines organicengines 303-936-1241. Offers the Joint and Chameleon. .com, 850-443-3284. AdVenture. Lightning Cycle Dynamics light- ningbikes.com, 805-736-0700. TriSled trisled.com.au, +61 3 RaptoBike raptobike.com, +31 Dawes dawescycles.com. Offers offers the P-38. 5981 0337. Offers the Gizmo. (0) 297 525 330. the Duet, Galaxy Twin, and Double Edge. Linear linearrecumbent.com, Turner www.turnerrecumbents. Sun sunbicycles.com, 305-238- 607-587-8835. Offers the Limo. com, 520-290-5646. Offers the 1866. Santana santanatandem.com, Transport. 800-334-6136. All tandems suit- LoGo logotrikes.com, +61 8941 Tripendo tripendo.com, +49 able for self-supported touring 82757. Offers the 18/20 and Volae volaerecumbents.com, (0)7142 - 91 99 60. (48-spoke wheel option recom- Rapide 18/26. 715-340-1133. Offers the mended). Expedition, Expedition Pro, and Velokraft velokraft.com, +48 Longbikes longbikes.com, 303- the Tour. 504 140 424. 986-9300. Offers the Slipstream and the Gulfstream tandem. Zöhrer zohrer.com.br, +55 (21) Whike whike.com, +316 5478 2523-5307. Offers the Turismo. 3068. Pedals and a sail! M5 m5recumbents.com, +31 (0)118 - 628759. Offers the Woodside woodsidecycles.com, Shock Proof, Carbon High and 937-514-7556. Medium Racers.

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 Coeur d’Alene National Forest. A pair of cyclists passed me going the other direction and gave me big smiles and thumbs- up as they whizzed downhill. (When you ride a recumbent trike, you get lots of smiles, waves, and shouts of “nice bike!” The word “trike” apparently doesn’t occur to most people when they see an adult ride by.) It was very steep and hot the last few miles and I paused a moment in the shady spots between switchbacks to rest. I was grateful for the energy gel and electrolyte drink, and regretful that you can’t stand on the pedals when going uphill on a recumbent. I let out a big “Whoopee!” when I reached the top of the pass, relieved that I had made it. I hadn’t really known whether my legs, heart, and lungs were up to it, and reaching the top unleashed a rush of optimism about future adventures. The easier and shorter path would have The evolution of bicycle safety. been to turn around and head straight Superﬂash Turbo back to Wallace, but I was curious about the road ahead, so after a short break I headed down the other side. Initially it BETTER BICYCLE PRODUCTS FOR A BETTER WORLD planetbike.com was scary steep with killer switchbacks, and I pumped my disc breaks continu- ously, keeping my speed below 30 MPH. I wasn’t even tempted to let it all hang out. If I went over the edge into the forest, I’d probably never be found again. Scary but beautiful — the very definition of a great adventure! After a screaming descent for a few miles, the road became a gentle downhill journey for mile after mile of forest, farmhouses, creeks, and cows. At length I came to an aging rural gas station/general store/ice cream parlor where I had another lip-smackin’ good huckleberry milkshake — apparently a specialty of the Coeur d’Alene region. From there it was many more scenic miles along the North Fork of the river before I reached Enaville and the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. When I pulled into the shade of the portico back at Kellogg, my odometer said I’d gone 58 miles that day — not much for seasoned riders but enough to give me the confidence to plan more challenging adventures on my trike in the future.

Carl Schroeder has fond memories of the time when he could ride a bicycle all day long without whining. He was so energized by TaterTOT, especially his trike excursion up Dobson Pass, that he’s now dreaming of a cross-country trike trip.

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 Open Road Gallery keep the change by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple

No one is ever left unchanged by a bike ride across the U.S. Minds are made up, paths become clear, and whole parts of yourself that you didn’t even know existed become obvious. By the time Ryan Conaughty visited us in Missoula in 2008 during his east to west TransAmerica ride, he’d already learned a great deal about the person he wished to become. This is his story. “Riding my bicycle across the country has been the greatest thing I’ve ever done in my life. Along the way, I cliff jumped in Missouri, got chased by a three-legged pit bull in Kentucky, rode all night and into the dawn in Kansas, and saw fire dancers. I slept in a cabin on the side of a mountain in Colorado, had a grizzly bear sniff my tent at the base of the Tetons in Wyoming, and swam naked in a river in Montana. “I now know pain like I’d never felt and happiness that can’t be described. I’ve experienced the kindness of strangers and I’ve seen the mind-numbing poverty of low-income America. I had never ridden a bike for more than 20 miles before my tour and I’d still consider myself a beginner to bike touring. Kentucky almost destroyed my dreams with the 103-degree temperatures in the shade. But I drank bourbon next to a river under a Missouri sky with perfect stars and I loved every breath I took out there. “Since my tour, I’m working on getting my Master’s degree in English in creative writing, inspired from my journal entries about my TransAmerica journey. I am trying to become a teacher in the hopes that I can show others the beauty of bike travel. Of course, there isn’t a day that passes that I don’t dream about being back on the road again. Happiness, to me, is to get on my bike and pedal.”

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 Final Mile “Hey Mister, There’s a Lady Following You!” Across America on a recumbent tandem by Bob Salipante Got to concentrate here. My wife trusts me more to captain this thing than I trust myself. I didn’t expect the bridge to be this narrow — expansion joints ahead. Traffic. No room for them to pass here. This bike is so squirrelly and we are impossibly slow. Concentrate. We’re across. Pull over and let the traffic pass. No horns this time. Relax and enjoy the view — the Without hesitation, she replied, Mississippi to our west. “Okay, but no camping.” The most distinctive thing Planning, training rides, about our fully-loaded recum- equipment testing, scouting bent tandem is that we are slow rides, and more planning — on any incline. So far, the only we have read all the books and vehicles slower than us are the guides. We manage to get in huge barges on these rivers, 1,000 training miles, topping the giant combines harvesting that off with a few weeks rid- corn, and an old street sweeper ing around the Rockies. We back in Hutchinson. Later, in decide to leave our place in Ohio, the horse-drawn bug- Breckenridge, Colorado, on the gies of the Mennonite farmers second anniversary of my sur-

will easily pull away from us. gery for prostate cancer. I can cathie sa l ipante From the day we committed to think of no better way to cel- doing this ride, my biggest concern has people, places, roads, food, and weather ebrate being healthy than putting in some been navigating the roller-coaster roads from one state line to the other. Alley serious miles on the tandem with Cathie. across Missouri without close encounters Spring, Eminence, Ellington, Johnson’s She got me through that and now it is my with speeding pickup trucks as we crawl Shut-ins — these are hidden gems. We are turn to return the favor. The destination up the hills. To improve the odds, we fly glad that we stuck to the TransAmerica is our home in Wellesley, Massachusetts. more flags than the United Nations. We Bicycle Trail and didn’t wimp out for the In addition, we hope to raise some money practice getting off the road in a hurry but Katy Trail. Proud too. for my surgeon’s research along the way. there isn’t always room. Our ears become With the Rockies and the Ozarks And now, we’ve made it across the crazy, attuned to the sound of automobiles gain- behind us, my wife, Cathie, has become a beautiful Ozarks — the crux of our trip ing on us from behind and we eventually strong, confident cyclist. Through every behind us. make it safely across the Ozarks. town, it’s the same refrain: “Hey mister, Our unique rig always draws a crowd More so than climbing out of the she’s coasting.” “Hey mister, there’s a lady … and comments, like “We wouldn’t last Rockies, riding in the Ozarks pushes us following you.” “Hey mister, she’s not two days together!” and “How can you to our limits. The roads in the Rockies peddling back there.” Did she hear this stand to be together all day, day-after- are built for us — constant, modest time? Yes. “You bet your sorry ass I’m day?” Always strong partners, we have grades made possible by switchbacks. In peddling!” she exclaims. become a great tandem team. The only Missouri, the roads go straight over the Approaching four decades together, grumpiness that ever shows is mine — steep hills — no modest grades here. We we’ve experienced a full share of for-bet- always a sign, Cathie determines quickly, learn that grade and heat trump lack of ter-and-for-worse. We are the stronger for that I’m bonking. (One day, I bonk in oxygen. But Missouri has impressed us it all. But, we’ve never attempted a serious the first hour so we stop and eat and in more ways than steep grades and high outdoor adventure together. I said, “Let’s then again — I crave the homemade pie temperatures. We encounter amazing ride our recumbent from house to house.” from yesterday’s diner!) My key jobs are

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 captain, mechanic, route planner, travel right where Adventure Cycling’s TransAm the other side, and keep that pattern going agent, and unsweetened iced-tea finder. maps told us to expect it. Courage and for as long as possible (usually, until the She is the stoker, navigator, photographer, presence of mind — taking a great self- chain falls off again — “Why did you weather watcher, and blogger. Also, as portrait as we ride into that storm (the stop!”) “Leg press” is the simulation of a it turns out, team doctor and Chief of best picture of the trip in my opinion). A visit to the gym when the bike computer Improvisational Repairs (only a knitter ceramist and a weaver, her artistry shows shows a grade we don’t believe and a would know how to reweave a shifter through in the many well-composed pic- speed slower than walking. When the cable so that it holds). tures she takes “at speed” (a key advan- burn from leg press becomes too much, We carry a very light camping kit just tage of riding a tandem on a cross-country the new order comes: “Walk!” in case — in case of weather, in case of tour is that the stoker is hands-free). The hills behind us for the time being, equipment failure, in case of a power out- Finally, and to my amazement, she can we make our planned stopover with fam- age. The tent never gets used. We soon ride for hours without saying a word — ily and friends in Cleveland, Ohio. As encounter a motel that meets my worst “Hey mister, there’s nobody riding back we rest, the confessions begin. Cathie: expectations. In all our years together, I there.” No fool, she tells me how the day “I didn’t leave any cold-weather bike have never asked her to spend a night in a is going by the amount of power coming clothes here because I didn’t think we place like this — I’m mortified. Tired from through. And then, thankfully, the morn- would make it this far.” Bob: “I was totally the day’s ride and the subsequent search ing conversation, “Water?” obsessed with getting across the Ozarks for unsweetened tea, I dedicate an evening A late-blooming athlete, how about and didn’t focus as much as I should have to swatting horseflies with a Pueblo chief- a Kansas century in 100-degree heat for on the ride east of there.” tain. Cathie records my fly-swatting form proof? I treat her to a Subway sandwich It’s my turn for intuition. We first-timer to the delight of blogger-friends around at Walmart to celebrate the milestone. I tandem tourists have covered 1,700 self- the world. The chieftain is no match for am convinced from years of observing our supported miles on a recumbent made for the corn-fed roaches that greet Cathie in children (an elite rock climber, an Ironman two without serious incident. Autumn the middle of the night (Note: add SIDI and Nordic marathoner, and an NCAA leaves falling and rain forecast. More corn- shoes size 44 to our list of multi-purpose gymnast — bicycle racers all) – that Cathie harvest truckers ahead. Legs deeply tired equipment). Down the road, as some is a great athlete. As a child, she was never from 600,000 pedal strokes and the phys- accommodations fall below this standard, encouraged to take up sports. And a life- ics of moving 430 pounds of bike, riders, we spread the drop cloth on top of the long passion for sports notwithstanding, and gear over 56,500 vertical feet. Our bed and sleep in our summer sleeping the athletic abilities of our children clearly relationship further alloyed by the experi- bags. “Can we camp now?” I plead. “No,” exceed my own. She doesn’t buy my the- ence and the amazing, vivid memories we she answers. sis, never has — until now. It becomes share. 37 years together and I’m still learn- clear to both of us as the weeks pass and Bob: “Let’s wrap this up next year. I ing new things about her. For starters she the miles pile up that Cathie packs more need to work up a better route over the is a creature of habit in the extreme — pure endurance than the “real” cyclist up Berkshires.”

cathie sa l ipante Kellogg’s Raisin Bran, whey protein, flax front. This time, I’m right. “Can we camp Cathie: “Okay. And we need to finish seed, and skim milk for breakfast. Iced now?” I ask again. Again, her reply is the the west coast segment, too.” tea and pretzels après ride. “Can we fix same. you a nice hot breakfast in the morning She develops four names for the vari- Cathie and Bob Salipante have been married for 33 years. They have three children and one granddaughter. before you leave?” asks a nice motel atten- ous types of hills we encounter: “Zen,” Cathie is an artist who works with ceramics and fibers. dant. “No thanks,” answers Cathie. “Do “rollers,” “leg press,” and “walk.” I hear Bob, a cancer survivor, is an avid cyclist and recently you have Kellogg’s Raisin Bran and skim “Zen” and we get lost in a sweet cadence, launched a business consulting firm. In June, they will milk?” Toughness — no complaints as we spinning over the top. “Rollers” and we ride their tandem from Cleveland to Boston. encounter an eastern Colorado sandstorm pedal like hell to the crest, scream down

August 13-19 Cycle Vermont Let us carry the load August 21-27 Oregon Coastal Odyssey Sept. 11-18 Freedom Flyer Sept. 18-25 Sierra Sampler

adventurecycling.org/tours

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 Road Test Jamis Aurora Elite A bike for all reasons by Patrick O’Grady

Reviewing the occasional bicycle for a magazine is like browsing at a well-stocked shop owned by an old friend, or maybe a rela- tive, one to whom you don’t owe money and never tormented as a child. There’s no sales pitch, and sometimes you get to experiment with unfamiliar technology. The bicycle is delivered to you rather than the other way around, and you can take some time getting to know it, because that short “test drive” in the shop parking lot or enough to support a handle- around the block really bar bag, a cyclometer, a bell doesn’t unearth the hidden and a pair of top-mounted flaws in an era when, frankly, auxiliary brake levers if you it’s tough to find a crappy like that sort of aftermarket

bike, as long as it’s not being upgrade for bumpy roads and pat r ick o ’ g ad y sold in some cavernous ware- hairy descents (I do). house alongside pallets of The wheels are sensible iPods, diapers, and jumbo without being overbearing — cans of creamed corn. 32-hole Mavic A119 double- And I’m happy to report wall rims laced to Formula that the 2011 Jamis Aurora alloy hubs with 14-gauge Elite isn’t crappy. stainless DT Champion If that sounds like a back- spokes and topped off with handed compliment, it’s not 700C x 32 folding Vittoria intended as such. I made the Randonneur Pro tires. I loved $1,700 Aurora Elite my daily Colorado, which means wind with a side Vittoria sewups when I was rider for a few weeks, and it quickly of wind in wind sauce. It stayed rooted racing cyclo-cross, and I’m equally happy joined the club of multipurpose steel to the road as firmly as Odin’s eight- with the company’s touring clinchers; I bikes I’ve come to appreciate so much, legged horse. have them on three bikes here in goat- capable of changing personalities at The frame set is an attractive antique head country and have yet to suffer a the twist of an Allen key and box-end bronze with inconspicuous decals, an puncture, something I couldn’t say about wrench. extended head tube with reinforced col- their tubular ancestors. The 28.5-pound Aurora Elite can lars, and a pump peg. Its Reynolds 631 Less familiar to me were the SRAM handle a recreational ride with friends or main tubes, with chromoly stays and Apex drivetrain, Avid BB-7 disc brakes family, get you to and from work, fetch lugged, semi-sloping fork, soak up all and flat anodized alloy fenders. I have stuff home from the store, and take you the feedback a crumbling Colorado road a SRAM Rival group on a 2008 Jamis away from all that without turning a key can throw at a rider. The matching rear Supernova cyclo-cross bike, but this was and gulping dinosaur wine at over four rack with included three-cord bungie is my first introduction to Avid discs. And dollars per gallon. a thoughtful touch and comes stamped those fenders — well, more about them It’s not a needy bike — hop aboard with a weight limit (25kg/55.1 pounds) later. and it’s content to roll right along with for impatient types who chuck the own- Billed on the SRAM website as boast- minimal instruction, leaving you free er’s manual before loading the panniers. ing “a wider gear range than the most to pay attention to your surroundings, The easily adjustable NVO popular triple combinations,” the Apex which is the one of the advantages of Components F-2 stem makes finding your group uses a rear derailleur that can han- cycling over driving, right? And mind comfort zone simplicity itself, and the dle an 11-32 cassette. Pairing that with you, I rode it during a La Niña April in unbranded handlebars are plenty wide the 50/34-tooth FSA Gossamer Compact

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 crankset yields a low end of 34 x 32 (28.7 advice, see Jan Heine’s brake-choice in than a subprime mortgage. gear inches), which in hilly Colorado is breakdown in the April 2011 issue. Other nits worth picking: fine for riding unencumbered or with Something else to think about when • I encountered quite a bit of toe-tire light commuter/credit-card loads, both of buying a disc-equipped bike is what overlap on the Aurora Elite, as I did which I did. sort of front rack you’ll need. My old with the ’08 Supernova, but this may Greg Webber, vice president of prod- Jandd low-rider wouldn’t clear the have more to do with me than with the uct development for Jamis, conceded that disc hardware; an Old Man Mountain designers, though Jamis sees fit to dis- this setup is “not necessarily billed as the Cold Springs rack fit fine, but perched cuss the issue in the FAQ section of its adventure cyclist gruppo.” the front load a bit high for confident website. I’m tough to fit at six feet tall But given that the 50/34 x 11-32 steering. Jamis’s Webber suggested a with a longish torso and legs that are less system would be nearly as accommodat- Tubus Tara, but after a visit with Wayne so. And once I became aware of the over- ing as the occasionally fiddly STI road Boroughs of The Touring Store (www. lap I promptly forgot about it. Just don’t shifter/MTB derailleur triple setups com- touringstore.com) I went with the Tubus try track-standing at a stoplight or clean- monly seen on other bikes, he added, Ergo, which has more adjustability built continued on page 37 “We were liking the weight reduction and shifting simplicity of the double- chainring drivetrain.” I appreciate the uncluttered look Specifications: Jamis Aurora Elite of the SRAM setup — no free-ranging Price: $1,700 cables snaking this way and that — and Sizes available: 47cm, 50cm, 53cm, found Apex’s shifting crisp and efficient, 55cm, 57cm, 59cm, 62cm. though a bit stiff and something of a Size tested: 57cm long throw when shifting from the little Weight: 28.5 pounds without pedals ring to the big one, not unlike the Rival shifter on my Supernova. I have small TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS hands, and crashes have severely dislo- Seat tube: 22 inches, center to top Top tube: 22 inches effective

pat r ick o ’ g ad y cated the birdie and thumb on the left Head tube: 6.5 inches one, so I notice things like this — but Head tube angle: 72° Shift/brake levers: SRAM Apex other, less damaged riders I know have Seat tube angle: 72° DoubleTap noticed it too. Chainstays: 17 3/8 inches Brakes: Avid BB-7 mechanical discs with No matter. When I loaded the bike Seat height above ground: 39 3/4 160mm rotors with about 35 pounds of gear — pan- inches Pedals: None niers front and rear, plus a handlebar bag Crank spindle height above ground: Stem: NVO Components F-2 easy height — I wasn’t spending a lot of time in the 11 inches adjust, 6° x 120mm big ring. I deliberately sought out some Fork rake: 1 31/32 inches (50mm) Saddle: Jamis Touring Sport with hollow of our steeper climbs and quickly found Wheelbase: 40 1/4 inches chromoly rails Seat post: Unbranded, one-piece fully myself bottomed out, with no bailout Standover height: 32 5/8 inches Frame and fork: Reynolds 631 seam- forged cog — and I love me some bailout cog, less air-hardened chromoly main tubes. Handlebar: Unbranded, butted, 125mm especially at the end of a long day in the Double-tapered heat-treated chromoly drop, 44cm (center to center) saddle when food and drink are only to stays, extended head tube with reinforced Accessories: Blade Runner flat alloy be had atop some hellish ascent. collars, custom laster-cut road-disc dropouts anodized fenders, alloy rear rack. Should room and board sit at the bot- with double eyelets. Lugged semi-sloping Cog cassette: SRAM PG-1050, 11-12- tom of your final hill, you’ll appreciate chromoly fork with low-rider braze-ons, disc- 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32 10-speed the stopping power of the Avid BB-7 brake tab, forged dropouts with single eyelet. Chain: KMC DX10SC brakes. As a longtime cantilever user Threaded bosses for two water bottles. Gearing in inches: and card-carrying Luddite, I’m not yet Headset: Ritchey Logic V2, Aheadset, 1 50 34 sold on discs, mostly because I have little 1/8 inch 11 122.7 83.5 experience with their care and feeding. Rims: Mavic A119 double-wall black, 12 112.5 76.5 32-hole A front-rear combo of Paul’s Neo-Retro 13 103.8 70.6 Spokes: DT Champion 14g stainless, and Touring cantis, on the other hand, I 15 90.0 61.2 cross three 17 79.4 54.0 understand well enough to handle simple Hubs: Formula alloy disc hubs 19 71.1 48.3 field repairs. Tires: Vittoria Randonneur Pro, folding, 22 61.4 41.7 I’ve heard and appreciate the many 700C x 32 25 54.0 36.7 sensible arguments for discs over rim Crank: FSA Gossamer compact. 175mm 28 48.2 32.8 brakes, but I was a late and reluctant arms, 50/34 chainrings 32 42.2 28.7 convert to linear-pulls on the mountain Front derailleur: SRAM Apex bike, too, so you might take that into Rear derailleur: SRAM Apex Contact: jamisbikes.com, 800-222-0570. consideration. And for more intelligent

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continued from page 33 ing any single-track switchbacks. said Webber. “We saw these in wood and set of fenders, cupped for full coverage • The flat anodized alloy fenders are thought they’d be really cool in flat alu- with adjustable stays and mudflaps, and pretty, but I wondered how dry they’d minum, and they are. But they’re prob- return to the traditional Shimano 105 keep me on a rainy day. I thought I’d ably not as absolutely practical as they triple (50/39/30) — but with a 12-30 cas- never get a chance to find out, as we could be.” sette and Dura-Ace bar-end shifters. were enduring our driest winter and Probably not. But then bicycle touring You’ll have to wait until October 2011, spring in years. But in early April, we isn’t exactly practical, either. If you want though. And by then you may be think- finally got a nice rain that left some to stay comfy and dry and climb hills ing more about hut trips than road trips. puddles on the deck and I rode through without effort, drive a car. all of them. You’re going to get wet. I did, Or, if you’d prefer to stick to two anyway. wheels, and all it would take to make Patrick O’Grady has written and cartooned about cycling since 1989 for VeloNews, Bicycle Retailer and “We’ve always been a form-follows- you content is a few more creature com- Industry News, and a variety of other publications. function kind of company, but in this forts than the 2011 Aurora Elite provides, The number of bikes in his Colorado garage is an one instance we lost our bearings a bit,” the 2012 version will sport a different exact match for the number of voices in his head.

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 marketMarketplace ads start at $195 per issue. For rate information, place please please contact Rick Bruner. Phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, Email: [email protected].

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JUNE 2011 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 ADVENTURES

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