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T o O r d e r M o r e F e a t u r e d W i n e s C a l l 1-800-823-5527 T o d a y !

Volume 19

Number 6 ©Vinesse Club 2011 The SKU 17880 GrThe Officiala Newsleptter forevine Viinesse Wiine Club Members MOUNT VEEDER Where the Growing Season Is Long and the Yields Are Low

CHEESE • For Parties • For Picnics • With Wine • With Pie

G e t Y o u r D a i l y D o s e o f W i n e N e w s a t www .V i n e s s e T o d a y . c o m 2 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com

Our Mission: To uncover and bring you wine gems ditor s ournal from around the world, which you’re E ’ J not likely to discover on your own, and which enhance your wine enjoyment. Wine & Cheese: Kissing Cousins Your Grapevine Team: By Robert Johnson Intrepid Wine Enthusiast, Chief Taster and Winehound: Martin Stewart onsidering that my Dad was born in Wisconsin, it’s Chief Operating Officer C amazing that I only recently discovered the wonders (aka “The Buck Stops Here”): of cheese. Lawrence D. Dutra Editor: I’ve always known just enough white or rosé wine is chilled down Robert Johnson about cheese to be dangerous, and too much, its aromas and flavors Wine Steward: have depended on others — true are masked. That’s why we strive Katie Montgomery experts on the subject — when for room temperature when serving The Grapevine is published by Vinesse, putting together cheese-focused all , with the exception of 822 Hampshire Road, Suite E, Westlake features for The Grapevine. As I’ve Champagne. Village, CA 91361; 1-800-823-5527. Copyright by Vinesse, LLC. Printed in USA. learned more, I’ve been struck by the And then there’s the matter of the No responsibility is assumed for loss or similarities between serving size. When damage to unsolicited materials. cheese and wine — multiple wines are particularly when it being served, we Be good to the planet comes to serving these suggest pours of no life-enhancing culinary more than an ounce to recycle treats, either together or an ounce-and-a-half. separately. Interestingly, the same For instance, when holds true for cheese. Charter Member serving a flight of wines, When figuring out how Benefits: we always start out with much cheese to buy, The Grapevine Newsletter the milder ones, and experts suggest an progress to the stronger ounce to an ounce-and- Premium wine selections at ones. As an example, a-half of each type for members-only prices we might start with a silky smooth each person. Wine tasting as a participant , move on to a mildly tannic Even the accompaniments are on VINESSE’s Gold Medal , and then finish with a “big” similar. Whether serving wine or Award Panel Zinfandel. cheese — or both — it’s good to Free subscription to VINESSE’s In the world of cheese, a tasting offer a number of nibblers such as Cyber Circle Community flight should begin with a milder almonds, walnuts, cashews, apple Random giveaways of wine cheese, and gradually move toward slices, pear slices, olives, salami and and accessories stronger cheeses. Likewise, younger prosciutto. Wine Finders Reward — cheeses should be served before older We could write a book... and others identify a future wine selection ones, as a general rule. already have... on which cheeses are and earn a reward When hosting a cheese party, most simpatico with which wines. experts suggest setting out the But if you’re a cheddar cheese lover, Perfectly matched recipes for featured wine selections selections about a half-hour prior you’re in luck: In this issue’s “Food to serving so that they’re at room & Wine Pairings” feature, we’ll take a Free wine tasting temperature when the munching look at the various types of cheddar begins. Sound familiar? When a and their best wine partners. Visit vinesse.com • The Grapevine • 3

Picking the Right Cheese and Wine for Your Next Pic-a-nic t long last, it’s Yogi Bear’s favorite cheesemakers and the most certified Master Cheesemakers Atime of the year. in the nation. More than 350 varieties, types and styles of cheese are produced in Wisconsin today — far more than That’s right, Mr. Ranger Sir, it’s pic-a-nic basket time. any other state. We may pack a basket to accompany a concert at a But what kind of wine goes with favorite outdoor venue, to enjoy under the trees at a what kind of cheese? Well, county or state park, or to savor in the sunshine while only your palate can lounging on a pristine beach. answer that question There’s just something about a picnic that helps us cool with any degree of the cabin fever of winter and improve our outlook on life. certainty. But here are Whether planning a picnic just for yourself to get away a few of our favorite from it all for a few hours... for you and your sweetie so pairings... you can spend some quality time together... or for a group • Manchego — A semi- of family members or friends... two essential ingredients firm to hard Spanish are wine and cheese. cheese with a rich, You certainly wouldn’t get any argument to that assertion creamy color. Delicious when from the good people of Wisconsin, a.k.a. “America’s accompanied by olives, it can range from mild Dairyland.” to sharp, depending on how long it has been aged. Wine During the last Ice Age, glaciers cut through much of the match: (red) Zinfandel. state, leaving behind rolling hills and lush pastureland that • Brie — A soft and creamy cheese from France, often early settlers found to be perfect for dairying. thought of as the perfect picnic cheese. For a Brick cheese is a Wisconsin original, created special treat, eat it with Granny Smith apples near the town of Theresa by a Swiss and a California-style, off-dry . immigrant during the 1870s. About the • Gouda — A yellow Dutch cheese with a same time, Colby cheese was created mild, nut-like flavor and creamy texture. in the town of Colby. Wisconsin’s first Try it with toasted almonds and Cabernet cheese factory was developed in 1876 Sauvignon. near Sheboygan. No matter what cheese and wine you The Monroe area and surrounding select, here’s one more piece of Green County is home to advice: Keep an eye out for that the largest concentration of pic-a-nic basket-stealing bear.

The one that started it all!

• Hand-crafted gems produced by little known or small estates • Limited-production bottlings • Under-the-radar wines you won’t find in supermarkets Each shipment includes: Wine Color Mix: Reds, Whites, or Both ­— Your Choice! • 6 bottles from all over the wine world Frequency: Monthly • Detailed Tasting Notes for each featured wine • Latest edition of The Grapevine newsletter Price: Only $12-$15 average per bottle plus shipping

To learn more about this Club, call 800-823-5527 or visit www.Vinesse.com 4 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com At Saxon Brown, Wine Is Made from the Ground Up eff Gaffner, the owner as well as Pinot Noir from the famed Jof and winemaker for Durell (Sonoma County); ÉLEVANT Saxon Brown Wines, once Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel from observed, “Winemaking Parmellee Hill Vineyard (Sonoma must consume you, or Valley); Syrah and Syrah Rosé society from Flora Ranch (Chalk Hill), and ™ your wines may not be Semillon from Cricket Creek Vineyard worth consuming.” ( Valley). It’s not for everyone. That’s the approach he has taken In addition to his Saxon Brown Is it for you? with each wine he has crafted at Saxon wines, Gaffner has won critical acclaim Vinesse created the Élevant Society Brown, from Semillon to Syrah, from as the consulting winemaker for several to meet members’ demands for to Zinfandel, and from high-end boutique labels, including Pinot Noir to . Xtant (Napa Valley), Stephanie (Napa super-premium wines. Gaffner is a 25-year veteran of Valley), Black Kite Cellars (Anderson While virtually all the wine industry. His career as a Valley) and Ram’s Gate (Sonoma members of the original winemaker was launched in 1981 at Valley). American Cellars Wine Club Chateau St. Jean under the tutelage of But most of the time, he is focused were very satisfied with their renowned vintner Richard Arrowood. monthly selections, some Most notably, Gaffner was part of the winemaking team responsible for wanted more, and they Chateau St. Jean’s 1996 Cinq Cepages, were willing to pay for it. which was named the 1999 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator magazine. Each Élevant Society In 1997, Gaffner launched Saxon shipment includes: Brown, named for the willful heroine in Jack London’s Valley of the Moon. The • 2 or 4 bottles — your choice — winery gained instant recognition for its of super-premium wines, mostly flagship “old vine” Zinfandel from the big and bold red varieties or family’s Casa Santinamaria Vineyard blends — one of only a few remaining classic, Italian-style, field-blended . • Detailed Tasting Notes for each The winery also produces an “old featured wine vine” Semillon from the same vineyard, • Latest edition of The Grapevine newsletter

Frequency: Approximately Monthly

Price: $84.94 average per shipment plus shipping

To learn more about this Club, call 800-823-5527 Pictured left to right are Winemaker Jeff Gaffner of Saxon Brown, or visit www.Vinesse.com Winemakers Don Van Staaveren, James Hall, Tor Kenward, Jason Kesner, Steve Tylicki, Brian Loring and Bill Price. (Photo credit: Michael Wright Studio) Visit vinesse.com • The Grapevine • 5 on the wines of Saxon Brown, which magnificent sites in all of Sonoma he describes as being made from the Valley, Casa Santinamaria is one of ground up. only a few “field blended” vineyards “We spend at least as much time in remaining in California. Due to the age the vineyard as the cellar,” Gaffner of the vines and the fact that they are explains. “Our flagship Zinfandel and dry-farmed and head-pruned, the yields Semillon are from our family’s 19th are low, the clusters are very small and centrury Casa Santinamaria Vineyard. the fruit is very concentrated. Saxon Brown is one of only a handful “Typically, we harvest between one- of wineries making classic ‘field half ton and one ton per acre,” Gaffner blended’ wines. This commitment to says, “The vineyard is planted to a tradition is a grounding principle of classic field blend of Zinfandel, Petite the Saxon Brown wines.” Sirah, Carignane, Alicante Bouschet Gaffner’s affinity for the land is in and Mataro (which comprise our his blood. Zinfandel), and Semillon, Muscadelle “As a third-generation Sonoma du Bordelaise and farmer, I have spent my career as (the blend for our Semillon).” Wines that match both a grower and winemaker,” he Saxon Brown wines are made with the season says. “As such, I believe that truly great reverence for tradition. The great wine is made in the vineyard. In are nurtured in the vineyard throughout Summer — wines for addition to the Semillon and Zinfandel the year. Harvest is based upon touch, barbecues, picnics or just for from Casa Santinamaria Vineyard, smell, taste and appearance, not lab sipping. Fall — wines for hearty, we make a Syrah from Parmelee-Hill reports. Gentle handling is emphasized, harvest-time dishes. You get the Vineyard, and Napa Valley Syrah along with slow fermentations and that is a blend of two vineyards in (except in the case of the Semillon) idea. All wines are selected by our southern Napa Valley.” lengthy aging to promote wines of Tasting Panel to pair beautifully Field blending is the practice of elegance and longevity. with the foods you love. blending the varieties in the Timing of Saxon Brown wine vineyard instead of the winery. The releases often is out of sync with other Each shipment includes: practice is still very common in wineries, which demonstrates a strict • 4 bottles of specially-selected Europe, especially Italy. In the late adherence to stylistic ideals. wines 1800s, many Italian immigrants settled “I love making wine,” Gaffner says. in Northern California, bringing with “I love the art of it, the science of it • Detailed Tasting Notes for them a vast knowledge of grape and, most of all, the tradition of it. I each featured wine growing and winemaking. They continue to be fascinated by wine’s • Latest edition of The Grapevine planted vineyards in Sonoma and capacity for reflecting the subtlest newsletter Napa Valley using their Old World of influences from the vineyard • A special surprise gift “field blend” model for both red and environment to the winemaker’s touch. white wines. “And my goal is always to produce Wine Color Mix: The traditional field blend was not a wine that is true to the varietal and Reds, Whites, or Mixed limited to grapes. Often, the vines growing site.” would be interplanted with olives, Frequency: cherries, walnuts, prunes, pears, 4-times per year, plus a special plums, apples and tomatoes. The field Winery 4-1-1 blend would vary from grower to holiday shipment Saxon Brown Wines grower and site to site, depending on Price: the stylistic preferences of the grower Sonoma, Calif. and the varietal suitability of the site. $89.95 average per By the late 1960s and early ’70s, No Public Tasting shipment plus shipping however, the practice had fallen out (Winery Produces Fewer Than 2,500 of favor as the wine industry moved To learn more about Cases Annually) to single-variety and single-rootstock this Club, call 800-823-5527 plantings. Planted before the turn of the 707-939-9530 or visit www.Vinesse.com previous century on one of the most 6 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com The Wine Trails of Little-Known Wineries Provide Memorable Experiences for Vino Tourists

here’s always something to do at the wineries of Ohio, land was turned into industrial land T particularly during the summer months. What’s that? and housing developments. The You say you didn’t know there was much of a wine culture grape-oriented economy of the area collapsed. in Ohio? Read on... When Prohibition was repealed in The history of winemaking in Ohio southern Ohio. 1933, a few wineries reemerged, but can be traced back to the early 1800s While the southern vineyards they had a lot going against them: The when Nicholas Longworth, a lawyer wilted, a new Ohio growing area majority of vineyards were in a state from the area, saw the emerged in the Lake Erie Islands. of disrepair, government restrictions potential of the Valley to The islands had a unique climate; the hindered their winemaking traditions, become a major producer of wine. waters surrounding them provided a and the few lasting vines had been In 1820, Longworth planted the first long growing season and insulated the converted to produce juice grapes. grapes in the state. This vines from spreading disease. Ohio’s one-time status as the domestic variety was hearty enough to German immigrants who brought nation’s top wine producer was withstand Ohio winters, and the wine the traditions of winemaking with produced from it won quick consumer them settled the islands. By the turn acceptance. The light, semi-sweet of the century, thousands of gallons of wine was different from the other wine were being produced by dozens strong American wines of the day. of wineries on and near the islands. Soon, there were many acres of Vineyards were soon planted along vines growing in the greater Cincinnati the entire southern shore of Lake area. By 1845, the annual production Erie. This narrow strip of shoreline was more than 300,000 gallons. And was nicknamed the “Lake Erie Grape by 1860, Ohio led the nation in the Belt.” production of wine. Then Prohibition struck the United As crop diseases such as black States and brought disaster to the rot and mildew began to plague the Ohio winemaking traditions. Some grapes, the Civil War left the grape family businesses turned to making growers with little manpower, leading wine for sacramental purposes, others to the demise of winemaking in produced juice, but the majority of TTOURINGOURING TIPS TIPS Visit vinesse.com • The Grapevine • 7 gone, and with it came a long road to in Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles and recovery. across the nation have reinforced vinesse The turning point for the Ohio wine Ohio’s position as one of the major industry came in the early 1960s wine regions of the world. with the planting of French-American In Ohio, there are five recognized varieties in southern Ohio, encouraged viticultural appellations. The Lake Erie largely by The Ohio State University’s appellation includes grapes grown Ohio Agricultural Research and near the shores of Lake Erie in Ohio, Development Center in Wooster. New York and Pennsylvania. Two The hardy, disease-resistant grapes appellations within the Lake Erie produced wines similar to the older appellation include Isle St. George and List European vinifera varieties. Their Grand River Valley. success in the south encouraged The Ohio River Valley appellation Hot Wine Bar. One could hang plantings in the Lake Erie Grape borders the Ohio River from out at La Cave Wine & Food Belt. Since 1965, more than 40 new Wheeling, W.V., to Cincinnati, and 1 Hideaway at Wynn Las Vegas for wineries have been established across continues on to Evansville, Ind. a long time. And that’s the point. the state, and each spring, growers The Loramie Creek appellation is in The wine-focused space is actually continue to plant French-American Shelby County, bordered by Loramie three distinct spaces, including an hybrids and vinifera varieties. and Tuttle Creeks and State Route intimate wine cellar environment. In 1975, a group of innovative 47. Unfortunately, the Loramie Creek Guests select from a menu of winemakers formed the Ohio Wine appellation currently has no operating small plates — flatbread, grilled Producers Association. Their purpose winery in its jurisdiction. fare, cheeses, seafood, artisan was and still is to bring together the Many of the state’s wineries salami, etc. — and a wine list that grape growers and the winemakers. host special events throughout the includes about 30 wines by the The Ohio General Assembly and year, but the summer calendar is glass (available in 2-, 4- and 6-oz. Governors James Rhodes and Richard particularly abundant. Here are just a pours). Mixing and matching is all Celeste established another vital few of the events coming up in July... part of the experience. program in 1981. In cooperation 702-770-7375 with winemakers and grape growers, • July 9 — Musical entertainment by the Ohio Grape Industries Program Reb Robinson at Breitenbach Wine was created and charged with the Cellars in Dover. Info: Hot Book for Foodies. How development of marketing and www.breitenbachwine.com 2 Italian Food Conquered the World, research programs to encourage the • July 16 — Steak fry at Buccia written by John F. Mariani, is so continuing revitalization of the fresh Vineyards in Conneaut. Info: delightful it will make you hungry. grape and winegrape industries. www.bucciavineyard.com Palgrave Macmillan; $25 In the decade of the 1990s, one • July 16 — Steak or chicken fry at of the significant threats facing the Biscotti Family Winery in Conneaut. Hot Airport Trend. One doesn’t industry was a lack of quality Ohio- Info: www.biscottiwinery.com 3 normally think of an airport as grown grapes. A major effort to a place to enjoy fine wine. But as • July 23 — Natural Areas Wine increase acreage was initiated under airport operators work to make the Tours. This date features St. Joseph the leadership of Governor George flying experience more palatable Vineyard in Madison. Includes a Voinovich. Tax credits, vineyard in these high-security times, more naturalist-led hike, followed by wine planting grants, and the hiring of a vinous opportunities are popping tasting and lunch. Info: state extension viticulturist are having up. Not surprisingly, California’s www.cmnh.org a positive impact on the total number San Jose Airport — not far from of winegrape acres being planted. • July 29 — Winey-Margarita Party. a number of wine appellations — The results can be seen through the An evening of “wine margaritas” offers one of the best at its Santa continued success of Ohio wines in and Latin jazz music at Grand River Cruz Wine Bar in Terminal B, national competitions. In the early Cellars & Restaurant in Madison. Info: where bottlings from the Santa 1990s, an Ohio Riesling won Best of www.grandrivercellars.com Cruz Mountains are featured. A Show at the prestigious San Francisco good glass of wine can make a long Fair Wine Competition. That award For additional information on Ohio delay a little bit easier to swallow. provided a tremendous boost for the wine touring, including maps and 408-294-5108 Ohio wine industry, and a new era of suggested itineraries, visit: respect emerged. Other gold medals www.ohiowines.org 8 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com

wine Vinesse Style AtoZ the dream kitchen f you love to cook, you’ve probably daydreamed a time or two about the “perfect kitchen.” abinett. A term once used to I Kdescribe a “reserve” level wine The kitchens seen on TV cooking • Well-organized cabinets. One in Germany. Today, it refers to a shows and in architecture journals should be able to locate and pull out lighter, lower-alcohol style. Austria may be pretty, but are they the right utensil or dish or pot without wineries also use the designation. functional? Do they accomplish the having to rearrange the cupboard. goal of providing an ideal setting for • Warming drawers. A must for ake County. Winegrowing region cooking and displaying food, or are anyone who plans to serve multi- Lof California that surrounds Clear they just pleasing to the eye? course or multi-item meals. It’s Lake, the largest natural lake in the With more and more people impossible to have everything reach state. eschewing pricey restaurants for perfect doneness at precisely the homemade gourmet experiences, same moment, but warming drawers ontepulciano. An Italian grape, the time seemed right to develop can make it seem as though you Mmost often associated with the a checklist for designing a “dream pulled off this neat trick. Abruzzo region, that makes a richly- kitchen.” Of course, space is always • Built-in steamer and wok hued, medium-bodied wine with an issue, but smart use of space can stations. These accommodate a wide accessible tannins (i.e., no long-term help make room for more gadgets. range of ethnic cuisine, and the wok Here’s what design experts can be easily switched out for a aging needed). suggest should (or could) be a pasta pot. ew World. Refers to wines made part of your kitchen makeover (in • An industrial-style faucet. One primarily outside of Europe. addition to the requisite Subzero trend noted by designers is the N refrigerator and two ovens, natch)... installation of sinks and faucets once The New World “style” is considered • Plenty of counter space. A cook found only in restaurants. Having the more fruit-focused and less terroir- needs room to work, and while right tools available can make the driven. various decorations and cooking- clean-up process much more palatable. focused souvenirs may look nice, Long story short: You need to ld World. Refers to wines made they take up valuable real estate. make your kitchen your own. After in the traditional European O Clear them off and make room for all, in most homes, it’s where the winemaking countries, including the food prep. family hangs out. France, Italy and Germany.

Each shipment Wine Color Mix: includes: Reds, Whites, or Both ­­— • 4 bottles of the best finds It’s Your Choice! Featured wines Made from California Frequency: in California Exclusively! Approximately • Detailed Tasting Notes • Napa • Sacramento Delta for each wine Every Other Month • Sonoma • Amador County Price: • Latest edition of The Grapevine newsletter • Santa Ynez • Mendocino Only $12-$15 average per bottle plus shipping • Monterey ... and More! To learn more about this Club, call 800-823-5527 or visit www.Vinesse.com Visit vinesse.com • The Grapevine • 9

vinesse® appellation showcase Mount Veeder

Join us for an incredible wine journey! Each Shipment Takes You to a Different Corner ount Veeder was named for the German of the Wine World! M Presbyterian pastor, Peter Veeder, who lived in Napa during the Civil War era and enjoyed hiking on the Taste Exquisite Boutique mountain, where the Douglas Firs and Bristlecone Pines Wines... Savor Each Country’s reminded him of the forests of home. Winemaking Tradition... and It was during those Wild West days reflect the independent spirit of its Collect Some Souvenirs! that winemaking on Mount Veeder mountain growers and vintners, borne was first recorded. In 1864, Captain of rugged conditions that demand Each shipment Stelham Wing presented the first handcraftsmanship at the highest level. includes: Mount Veeder bottling in the Napa The appellation has the longest County Fair, a wine hailing from growing season and the lowest • 6 bottles of specially selected today’s Wing Canyon Vineyard. yields in Napa Valley, and virtually wines from one country or The Germanic thread continued all vineyard work is done by hand region of the wine world with the founding in the 1880s of the due to the rugged conditions and • Detailed Tasting Notes for each Streich Winery (today’s Yates Family steep slopes. Those slopes, above Vineyard) by Ernest Streich, and the the fog, render shallow topsoil and featured wine Fisher Winery (today’s Mayacamas minimal water retention, resulting • Latest edition of The Grapevine Vineyards) by John Henry Fisher of in tiny berries with intense flavor newsletter Stuttgart. concentration and amazingly soft Commercial-scale production tannins. arrived on Mount Veeder in 1900 Mount Veeder is the only hillside Wine Color Mix: when Theodore Geir, a colorful and appellation in Napa Valley that flamboyant German-born Oakland adjoins the cool, bayside Carneros, Reds, Whites, or Mixed liquor dealer, bought the property benefiting from the cooling influence Frequency: that would later become the Christian of San Pablo Bay. Brothers’ Mont La Salle Winery Geologists think of it as an island 6 times per year (today’s Hess Collection Winery). of ancient seabed pushed up into a By the late 1890s, there were some mountain, surrounded by volcanic Price: 20 vineyards and six wineries on the soils that typify the rest of the Napa slopes of Mount Veeder. Prohibition Valley. $122.94 per shipment diminished the vineyards, which Based on Mount Veeder’s plus shipping revitalized beginning with incomparable mix of steep slopes, Mayacamas Vineyards in 1951 and predominance of seabed soil and To learn more about Bernstein Vineyards in 1964. proximity to San Pablo Bay, official this Club, call 800-823-5527 The wines from Mount Veeder American Viticultural Area status was or visit www.Vinesse.com — the mountain by the bay — granted in 1993. 10 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com

­ n the Chicago suburb of Oak Park, where Iarchitecture fans flock to see numerous structures designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, there is a purveyor of cheese (and wine) that does everything possible to “be green.” The Marion Street Cheese Market recently attained a three-star rating and green certification from the Why are some wines sweeter Green Restaurant Association, a national non-profit organization. In addition to embracing locally grown and produced products, the market features bar than others? Aren’t they all counters that were made from reclaimed glass, and bar seats made from made from grapes? Q reworked and woven car seatbelts. Green chemicals are used for cleaning, the restrooms feature timed lights and water-flow moderators, and the Not all wine is made from kitchen uses energy-efficient appliances. It’s a place one can go and enjoy grapes — basically, anything wine-and-cheese flights without even an ounce of guilt. Athat can be fermented can be made into wine — but the vast ine labels can be informative, but they also can be misleading. majority is. The ultimate sweetness of Wineries are in the business of selling wine, and the Alcohol and a given wine is dependent upon two W Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau is tasked with, among other things, making primary factors: the sweetness level sure that the labels on wine bottles are truthful. In a famous court case of the grapes when harvested, and several years ago, the Napa Ridge name was “retired” because little (if any) when fermentation of the crushed of the wine inside its bottles came from Napa. Now, regulators are examining grapes is halted by the winemaker. such terms as “Old Vine, “Barrel Fermented” and “Reserve” to determine A vintner may choose to stop the whether they are in need of strict definitions. As one might expect, wineries fermentation process before the are opposed to the added scrutiny. Some employ people who do nothing but wine attains full dryness. The earlier make sure that labels are in compliance, and approved in a timely manner. fermentation is stopped, the higher Another layer of “oversight” is seen by the wine industry as “overkill.” For the wine’s residual sugar level will the time being, the ATTTB is seeking comments from the industry and the be... and the sweeter it will be. wine-buying public.

n the 35th anniversary of the 1976 Paris Tasting, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has announced the creation of a Ounique “Judgment of Paris Seal” for its iconic Cabernet Sauvignons. The Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon took top honors among the red wines at the historic Judgment of Paris tasting that took place on May 24, 1976. The Judgment of Paris Seal is a circular emblem with the words “Estate Winner Paris Tasting 1976” surrounded by an olive branch wreath, which in Ancient Greece symbolized victory. The commemorative design will debut on the 2009 vintage of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars FAY, S.L.V., Cask 23 and Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon. “Anniversaries are fitting times to reflect and to look forward,” said Ted Baseler, President and CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. “The Paris Tasting was a defining milestone for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and the entire industry, and this iconic emblem pays homage to this rich history.” There are two reasons for drinking. “One is when you are thirsty, to cure it. The other, when you are not 329.7 thirsty, to prevent it. The number, in millions, of 9-liter wine cases purchased by Americans in Prevention is better than cure. 2010 — up from 313.8 million in 2007. During that same time period, wine Wine is the elixir of life. consumption in France dropped from — Thomas Love Peacock, 357.4 million to 320.6 million cases. a 19th century English satirist and author.” Visit vinesse.com • The Grapevine • 11

food & wine pairings

Cheddar Cheese & ou’re on a road trip. You’re getting hungry, so you Ystart checking the billboards and other roadside signs for dining ideas. the fastest-growing Rather than another club in vinesse meal at another chain restaurant, you’re history! hoping to find something A club for people who enjoy different. Perhaps a a touch of sweetness in ma-and-pa tavern where their wines. you can sit down and enjoy a homemade burger Wines that are lighter in style, with a slice of melting sometimes sparkle, cheddar cheese. occasionally blush, and are Restaurant critics simply fun to drink. probably wouldn’t consider that a gourmet Wines selected from top experience. But be regions around the world. honest: Does anything taste better than a just- Each shipment off-the-grill cheddar includes: burger? Add a glass of wine, and life truly is • 2 bottles of delicious good. A medium cheddar cheese calls for light-and-sweet wines But as we know, few things in life a red wine — specifically, Pinot Noir. • Detailed Tasting Notes for each are simple. In this case, pairing the Pinot typically has a mild earthy cheddar burger with the right wine quality that complements the cheese featured wine — if the tavern even offers wine — without overwhelming it. • Latest edition of The Grapevine can be challenging. So, to simplify But if you believe that mild and newsletter this pairing conundrum, let’s take medium cheddar cheeses are for the burger out of the equation and wimps, and that only sharp cheddar is Wine Color Mix: focus solely on the cheese. “real” cheddar, you’re in luck because Mostly White; Occasionally There are several different styles of the wine options are more numerous. Blush/Pink or Sparkling cheddar, ranging from quite mild to Sharp cheddar calls for a noticeably very sharp. And each style calls for a earthy style of wine, so seek Frequency: different type of wine. bottlings such as Chateauneuf-du- If mild cheddar is your preference, Pape from Southern France, similar Approximately seek out a bottle of rich, creamy Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blends Every Other Month Chardonnay. Normally, these big, from Australia or California, or bold Price: oaky renditions of Chardonnay are Spanish reds. best enjoyed sans food, but mild Add a slice of sharp cheddar to Only $12 average per bottle cheddar cheese is a tasty exception a burger, and you can add Merlot plus shipping to the rule. Because the cheese is and Cabernet Sauvignon to the wine so mellow, it doesn’t compete with pairing possibilities. the wine’s oakiness. In fact, the two So the next time you chow To learn more about characteristics actually complement down on cheddar, don’t forget the this Club, call 800-823-5527 one another. corkscrew. or visit www.Vinesse.com 12 • The Grapevine • Visit vinesse.com The Grapevine

CHICKEN CASSEROLE PEAR-CHEDDAR PIE WITH HERBS Cheese for dessert? It has been a European tradition Try this dish with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc or for decades. Here’s a dish that combines Old World Sauvignon Blanc. This recipe makes 6 servings. tradition with the New World’s daily pursuit of sweetness. This recipe yields one sinfully delicious pie that can be enjoyed with Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Ingredients Muscat Canelli or “unoaked” Chardonnay. • 6 boneless chicken breast halves • Salt • Pepper Ingredients • 1/4 cup butter For the Crumble: • 1 can (10.5-oz.) condensed cream of chicken soup • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour • 6 to 8-oz. mushrooms, sliced • 1/2 cup brown sugar • 3/4 cup dry white wine • 1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese • 2 tablespoons chopped green bell pepper • 1/4 cup butter • 1/4 teaspoon leaf thyme, crushed • 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes For the Pie: • 1/4 teaspoon tarragon, crumbled • 6 cups peeled and sliced pears • 1/4 teaspoon dried minced chives (or 1 scant • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon fresh) • 1/2 cup brown sugar • 3 tablespoons cornstarch • 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Preparation • Unbaked pie crust 1. Lightly season chicken with salt and pepper. 2. Brown chicken slowly in butter in a large skillet. Preparation 3. Arrange browned chicken in a baking dish. To 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. drippings in skillet add soup and stir to blend. 2. Combine the flour, 1/2 cup brown sugar and cheddar 4. Slowly add dry white wine, stirring until smooth. cheese. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles 5. Add remaining ingredients and heat to boiling. coarse crumbs. 6. Pour sauce over the chicken and cover dish with foil. 3. Toss the sliced pears with the lemon juice. In a Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes. separate bowl, combine the remaining brown sugar, 7. Remove foil and continue baking for 35 minutes, or cornstarch and cinnamon. Add the sugar mixture to until tender. the pears and toss to coat. 8. Serve with rice or noodles. 4. Transfer the pears to the pie crust, and top with the crumble mixture. Bake in the preheated oven until the top is golden brown (about 45 minutes).

As a Member, You Can View Your Account Online For full details about your account, including your personal shipment history, charge amounts, and more, please visit www.Vinesse.com and log on via the “Your Account” link at the top right. TO ORDER CALL TOLL-FREE: 800-823-5527 HOURS: MONDAY-FRIDAY 8AM TO 5PM PST Vinesse 822 Hampshire Rd., Suite E, Westlake Village, CA 91361 • www.Vinesse.com