Juergen Teller
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Chic Street Oscar De La Renta Addressed Potential Future-Heads-Of-States, Estate Ladies and Grand Ole Party Gals with His Collection of Posh Powerwear
JANET BROWN STORE MAY CLOSE/15 ANITA RODDICK DIES/18 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 11, 2007 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Chic Street Oscar de la Renta addressed potential future-heads-of-states, estate ladies and grand ole party gals with his collection of posh powerwear. Here, he showed polish with an edge in a zip-up leather top and silk satin skirt, topped with a feather bonnet. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 13. To Hype or Not to Hype: Designer Divide Grows Over Role of N.Y. Shows By Rosemary Feitelberg and Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — Circus or salon — which does the fashion industry want? The growing divide between designers who choose to show in the commercially driven atmosphere of the Bryant Park tents of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and those who go off-site to edgier, loftier or far-flung venues is defining this New York season, and designers on both sides of the fence argue theirs is the best way. As reported, IMG Fashion, which owns Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, has signed a deal to keep those shows See The Show, Page14 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2007 WWD.COM Iconix, Burberry Resolve Dispute urberry Group plc and Iconix Brand Group said Monday that they amicably resolved pending WWDTUESDAY Blitigation. No details of the settlement were disclosed. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Burberry fi led a lawsuit in Manhattan federal court on Aug. 24 against Iconix alleging that the redesigned London Fog brand infringed on its Burberry check design. -
Black Brooklyn Renaissance Digital Archive Sherif Sadek, Akhnaton Films
Black Brooklyn Renaissance (BBR) Digital Archive About the Digital Archive CONTENTS This digital archive contains 73 discs, formatted as playable DVDs for use in compatible DVD players and computers, and audio CDs where indicated. The BBR Digital Archive is organized according to performance genres: dance, music, visual art, spoken word, community festival/ritual arts, and community/arts organizations. Within each genre, performance events and artist interviews are separated. COPYRIGHT Black Brooklyn Renaissance: Black Arts + Culture (BBR) Digital Archive is copyright 2011, and is protected by U.S. Copyright Law, along with privacy and publicity rights. Users may access the recordings solely for individual and nonprofit educational and research purposes. Users may NOT make or distribute copies of the recordings or their contents, in whole or in part, for any purpose. If a user wishes to make any further use of the recordings, the user is responsible for obtaining the written permission of Brooklyn Arts Council (BAC) and/or holders of other rights. BAC assumes no responsibility for any error, omission, interruption, deletion, defect, delay in operation or transmission, or communications line failure, involving the BBR Digital Archive. BAC feels a strong ethical responsibility to the people who have consented to have their lives documented for the historical record. BAC asks that researchers approach the materials in BBR Digital Archive with respect for the sensibilities of the people whose lives, performances, and thoughts are documented here. By accessing the contents of BBR Digital Archive, you represent that you have read, understood, and agree to comply with the above terms and conditions of use of the BBR Digital Archive. -
Fashion Awards Preview
WWD A SUPPLEMENT TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2011 CFDA FASHION AWARDS PREVIEW 053111.CFDA.001.Cover.a;4.indd 1 5/23/11 12:47 PM marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG WWD Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Melissa Mattiace ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC, Alison Adler Matz EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EDITOR James Fallon ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. -
The Decline of New York City Nightlife Culture Since the Late 1980S
1 Clubbed to Death: The Decline of New York City Nightlife Culture Since the Late 1980s Senior Thesis by Whitney Wei Fulfillment of the Requirements For the Degree of BA Economic and Social History Barnard College of Columbia University New York, New York 2015 2 ii. Contents iii. Acknowledgement iv. Abstract v. List of Tables vi. List of Figures I. Introduction……………………………………………………………………7 II. The Limelight…………………………………………………………………12 III. After Dark…………………………………………………………………….21 a. AIDS Epidemic Strikes Clubland……………………..13 b. Gentrification: Early and Late………………………….27 c. The Impact of Gentrification to Industry Livelihood…32 IV. Clubbed to Death …………………………………………………………….35 a. 1989 Zoning Changes to Entertainment Venues…………………………36 b. Scandal, Vilification, and Disorder……………………………………….45 c. Rudy Giuliani and Criminalization of Nightlife………………………….53 V. Conclusion ……………………………………………………………………60 VI. Bibliography………………………………………………………………..…61 3 Acknowledgement I would like to take this opportunity to thank Professor Alan Dye for his wise guidance during this thesis process. Having such a supportive advisor has proven indispensable to the quality of this work. A special thank you to Ian Sinclair of NYC Planning for providing key zoning documents and patient explanations. Finally, I would like to thank the support and contributions of my peers in the Economic and Social History Senior Thesis class. 4 Abstract The purpose of this thesis is to investigate the impact of city policy changes and the processes of gentrification on 1980s nightlife subculture in New York City. What are important to this work are the contributions and influence of nightlife subculture to greater New York City history through fashion, music, and art. I intend to prove that, in combination with the city’s gradual revanchism of neighborhood properties, the self-destructive nature of this after-hours sector has led to its own demise. -
Body As Crisis
CHAPTER II It is monstrosity, not death, that is the counter- value to life Georges Canguilhem, Monstrosity and the Monstrous … In the middle, cadaverous, awful, lay the grey puddle in the courtyard … I came to the puddle. I could not cross it. Identity failed me Virginia Woolf, The Waves Frida Kahlo and Cindy Sherman both present the wounded flesh. But while Kahlo showed chronic pain as a result of tissue damage, Sherman’s art can be read as a symptom of pain, a reflection of a mental state. While Kahlo painted perpetual pain accompanying her all her life, Sherman shows pain as a structural instability, the blurring of the boundaries of stereotyped femininity. Like her own artistic persona, pain in Sherman’s work is de-individualized; it might just as well be the pain of an author, a model, a character or a viewer. Abandoning any claim on notions such as authorship or intentionality, Sherman disowns – but does not disembody – pain. Pain in Sherman’s art changes the body in the same way that emotional crisis watermarks the identity. Sherman never shows her characters as what is widely understood as idealized figures. Her art forms the counterpart to the American cult of the well-functioning, toned-down body, where any memory of pain had been erased. Pain denied elsewhere here becomes pain transformed into monstrosity, nausea, pathology, hysteria, and disguise. Sherman’s photographs force the viewer to acknowledge the amount of pain constituting the female subject. I am interested in the discursive exchange between feminist and psychoanalytic theories and visual images where Sherman’s art is concerned. -
Gillian Laub CV 2021
Gillian Laub (b.1975, Chappaqua, New York) is a photographer and filmmaker based in New York. She graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison with a degree in comparative literature before studying photography at the International Center of Photography, where her love of visual storytelling and family narratives began. Laub’s first monograph, Testimony (Aperture 2007), began as a response to the media coverage during the second Intifada in the Middle East, and a desire to create a dialogue between apparent enemies. This work is comprised of portraits and testimonies from Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs, Lebanese, and Palestinians all directly and indirectly affected by the complicated geopolitical context in which they lived. Laub spent over a decade working in Georgia exploring issues of lingering racism in the American South. This work became Laub’s first feature length, directed and produced, documentary film, Southern Rites that premiered on HBO in May 2015. Her monograph, Southern Rites (Damiani, 2015) and travelling exhibition by the same title came out in conjunction with the film and are being used for an educational outreach campaign, in schools and institutions across the country. Southern Rites was named one of the best photo books of 2015 by TIME, Smithsonian, Vogue, LensCulture, and American Photo. It was also nominated for a Lucie award and Humanitas award. "Riveting...In a calm, understated tone, Southern Rites digs deep to expose the roots that have made segregated proms and other affronts possible. Southern Rites is a portrait of the inequities that lead to disaster on the streets of cities like Baltimore and Ferguson, Mo.” - The New York Times Laub has been interviewed on NPR, CNN, MSNBC, Good Morning America, Times Talks and numerous others. -
Tailoring the British Landscape: Tim Walker's Stage Designed Fashion
Tailoring the British Landscape: Tim Walker’s Stage Designed Fashion Photographs Julie MORÈRE Université de Nantes Tailoring the British Landscape: Tim Walker’s Stage Designed Fashion Photographs Julie MORÈRE Université de Nantes CRINI, EA 1162 [email protected] Résumé Tim Walker est connu pour ses séries photographiques insolites très britanniques publiées dans Vogue ou Vanity Fair, et pour son absence d’intérêt pour les images de défilés de mode, ou les photos prises en studio (pour lesquelles il éprouve cependant une curiosité grandissante). En lieu et place de cela, il bouleverse l’ordre des intérieurs des grandes demeures britanniques, ou invente des mises en scènes extravagantes en extérieur, qu’il s’agisse d’un dîner bohémien suspendu dans les arbres, d’un squelette burtonien dans un champ de roses déclinant tous les tons de rouges, d’une soucoupe volante planant au-dessus d’une horde de chiens lancés à la poursuite d’un renard dans la campagne anglaise, ou d’une poupée géante déambulant dans les bois d’un Northumberland mystérieux. Les grands espaces du paysage anglais, des contrées insulaires de l’ouest au comté du Northumberland, jusqu’au nord, vers les Highlands écossais, sont le terrain de jeu du photographe, et lorsque l’extérieur n’est pas physiquement présent, il ressurgit par le truchement d’arbres, de ruisseaux, de petits lacs, de clairières ou de neige recréés artificiellement à l’intérieur, entre les murs des grandes demeures. Walker donne vie sans contraintes à ses visions, et utilise la photographie de mode comme outil pour explorer ses rêves et désirs fantaisistes. -
Modern Painters March 2006 Let Me Entertain You Juergen Teller Takes
Modern Painters March 2006 Let Me Entertain You Juergen Teller takes centre stage By Vince Aletti IT'S HARD TO TAKE Juergen Teller seriously, but that's part of his appeal. Teller doesn't take himself too seriously either. He's a joker, a prankster, sometimes a buffoon. He became famous as a fashion photographer in the 1990s, when artists (including Corinne Day, Wolfgang Tillmans, Jack Pierson, Nan Goldin and Terry Richardson) and magazines (The Face, i-D, Dutch, Dazed & Confused, Index) that had little or no use for the genre's conventions were scrapping them and starting over from scratch. Mocking fashion's snobbism and superficiality, Teller and his fellow mavericks made work that was cheeky, funny, street smart and much more about the model's attitude than the clothes she wore. Or didn't wear. Teller's most notorious photos, from 1996, are of model Kristen McMenamy wearing nothing but jewellery; inside a crude lipstick heart drawn between her breasts is the name Versace, written in eyebrow pencil. Glamour survived these attempts to debunk it, but Teller had made his mark and established a reliably, often hilariously, perverse career in fashion photography that continues most conspicuously in his ad campaign for Marc Jacobs. There's scant evidence of that career in the Teller exhibition that opens at Fondation Cartier in Paris this month, where the nudity on display will be primarily his own. Titled Do You Know What I Mean, the show includes frankly autobiographical work, some of which was on view at New York's Lehmann Maupin Gallery in January, and finds Teller delving deeper into personal and national history. -
Bakalářská Práce Vivienne Westwood – from Punk Culture to Haute
Západočeská univerzita v Plzni Fakulta filozofická Bakalářská práce Vivienne Westwood – From Punk Culture to Haute Couture Michaela Vojteková Plzeň 2018 Západočeská univerzita v Plzni Fakulta filozofická Katedra anglického jazyka a literatury Studijní program Filologie Studijní obor Cizí jazyky pro komerční praxi Kombinace angličtina - francouzština Bakalářská práce Vivienne Westwood – From Punk Culture to Haute Couture Michaela Vojteková Vedoucí práce: Mgr. Lenka Dejmalová, Ph.D. Katedra anglického jazyka a literatury Fakulta filozofická Západočeské univerzity v Plzni Plzeň 2018 Prohlašuji, že jsem práci zpracoval (a) samostatně a použil (a) jen uvedených pramenů a literatury. Plzeň, duben 2018 ……………………… Poděkování Ráda bych tímto poděkovala paní Mgr. Lence Dejmalové, Ph.D. za její cenné rady a věcné připomínky při zpracování této bakalářské práce. Table of contents Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 6 1 HISTORY OF FASHION DESIGN AND CLOTHES .......................................... 9 1.1 FASHION DESIGN ......................................................................................... 10 1.2 FASHION AS ART .......................................................................................... 12 1.3 GENDER STEREOTYPES ............................................................................. 12 1.4 FASHION SHOWS .......................................................................................... 13 2 SUBCULTURE AS A TERM -
Fashion Week Miami Beach
FUNKSHION: Fashion Week Miami Beach is a fi ve day event that provides an intelligent, innovative platform for progressive, established, and emerging designers to showcase their collections to media, celebrities, international buyers, and select style makers. The shows are geared towards designer diffusion collections and innovative lifestyle brands. Designers will integrate music into their shows, many personally selecting their favorite celebrity DJs or bands to preside over their runway spectacles. funkshion noun fusion of music and fashion worlds Real Time Funkshion ART Celebrating 15 seasons of Funkshion: Fashion Week Miami Beach, two artists created 15 art installations / sculptures inspired by fashion, music and Miami Beach. For 15 days in the tradition of the Real-Time- Art concepts Djordje IsHere and Vladimir composed one sculpture a day using recycled and found objects from the Funkshion warehouse. They even set up a temporary photo studio at the premises to shoot pictures of the art sculptures using Funkshion runway lights for fashion shows. The 15 works of art produced represent their creative answers to the connection of the art and fashion worlds – the outcome is extraordinary pieces created with limited resources and in limited time. Funkshion takes over Ocean Driveve withwith two custom built venues on the beach: Maxim Magazine Parkk on NinthN presented by FILA and the main tent where designers suchuch as Nicole Miller, Miss Sixty, Fred Perry, Marithe and Francois Girbaudaud andan others showcased their new collections. Among attendees werere P. Diddy,D Alonzo Mourning, Brian Grant, Patricia Fields and others. FunkshionFunk benefi ted Brian Grant and Alonzo Mourning Charities. -
Pirelli Calendar 2010 by Terry Richardson London
Pirelli Calendar 2010 by Terry Richardson London, 19 November 2009 – The 2010 Pirelli Calendar, now in its 37th edition, was presented to the press and to guests and collectors from around the world, at its global premiere in London. The much-awaited appointment with ‘The Cal’, a cult object for over 40 years, was held this year at Old Billingsgate, the suggestive late 19th century building on the banks of the Thames, where from 1875 to 1982 it housed the capital city’s fish market. Following China, immortalized by Patrick Demarchelier in the 2008 edition, and Botswana shot by Peter Beard a year later, 2010 is the year of Brazil and of American photographer Terry Richardson, the celebrated “enfant terrible” known for his provocative and outrageous approach. In the 30 images that scan the months of 2010, Terry Richardson depicts a return to a playful, pure Eros. Through his lens he runs after fantasies and provokes, but with a simplicity that sculpts and captures the sunniest side of femininity. He portrays a woman who is captivating because she is natural, who plays with stereotypes in order to undo them, who makes irony the only veil she covers herself with. This is a return to the natural, authentic atmospheres and images of the ‘60s and ‘70s. It is a clear homage to the Calendar’s origins, a throwback to the first editions by Robert Freeman (1964), Brian Duffy (1965) and Harry Peccinotti (1968 and 1969). Terry Richardson, like his illustrious predecessors, has chosen a simple kind of photography, without retouching, where naturalness prevails over technique and becomes the key to removing artificial excesses in vogue today to reveal the true woman underneath. -
Fashion Photography and the Museum by Jordan Macinnis A
In and Out of Fashion: Fashion Photography and the Museum by Jordan MacInnis A thesis presented to the Ontario College of Art & Design in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Fine Arts in Criticism and Curatorial Practice Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2011 © Jordan MacInnis 2011 Author’s Declaration I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this thesis. This is a true copy of the thesis, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners. I authorize OCAD University to lend this thesis to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my thesis may be made electronically available to the public. I further authorize OCAD University to reproduce this thesis by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. Signature . Date . ii In and Out of Fashion: Fashion Photography and the Museum Master of Fine Arts, 2011 Jordan MacInnis Criticism & Curatorial Practice Ontario College of Art & Design University Abstract The past two decades have witnessed an increase in exhibitions of fashion photography in major international museums. This indicates not only the museum’s burgeoning interest in other cultural forms but the acceptance of fashion photography into specific art contexts. This thesis examines two recent exhibitions of contemporary fashion photography: “Fashioning Fiction in Photography Since 1990” at the Museum of Modern Art (April 16- June 28, 2004), the first exhibition of fashion photography at a major North American museum of art, and “Weird Beauty: Fashion Photography Now” at the International Center of Photography (January 16, 2009-May 3, 2009).