Bradbury’s Warehouse, South of High Street. c.1870. Very good red brickwork with white brick arches and cast iron window frames. Originally owned by local family & traders, The Bradburys.

BRENTFORD HERITAGE ASSETS September 2013

Compiled by Catriona Berry Drawing on historical research by Janet McNamara & additional research by Val Bott. Commissioned by Brentford Community Council

All photographs © Catriona Berry 2013, unless otherwise marked. E-mail [email protected] Brentford Heritage List

Acknowledgements: With special thanks to Janet McNamara, Val Bott, Paul Velluet, Robin Nugent, Andrew Dakers, Hazel Dakers, Denis Browne and David Bright, who have all contributed their time and expertise to this valuable report. Thanks also to Susie Barson from English Heritage whose ‘Report on the Waterside Area at Brentford, 2000’ has been useful as reference when compiling this more detailed study.

Catriona Berry

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CONTENTS:

Page 4 Area ‘A’: Brentford High Street and Waterfront Area. Via Pump Lane, Ferry Lane, Town Meadow, Dock Rd, Catherine Wheel Rd, Brent Way, Boars Head Yard, The Ham, Commerce Rd, Brentford Lock, Green Dragon Lane.

Page 69 Area ‘B’: The Butts and surrounds Including The Butts Estate, Upper Butts, Church Walk, Somerset Rd (west) and Market Place.

Page 100 Area ‘C’: St Faith’s Area and Windmill Rd down to Half Acre Via Hamilton Rd, Clifden Rd and St Paul’s Rd.

Page 123 Area ‘D’: Area

Page 143 Area ‘E’: and surrounds

Page 155 Area ‘F’: Great West Rd

Page 167 Area ‘G’: Brentford End

Page 173 Area ‘H’: Syon Park

Page 181 Area ‘I’: Park

Page 190 Section ‘J’: Churches

Page 201 Section ‘K’: Schools

Page 207 Section ‘L’: Pubs

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Area ‘A’: Brentford High Street and Waterfront Area

Via Pump Lane, Ferry Lane, Town Meadow, Dock Rd, Catherine Wheel Rd, Brent Way, Boars Head Yard, The Ham, Commerce Rd, Brentford Lock, Green Dragon Lane.

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Kew Bridge

Original Use Bridge

Current Use Bridge

Construction 1903 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Kew Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Road bridge. 1903, by Sir John Wolfe Barry and Cuthbert Breveton. Three elliptical arches over the river Thames with a series of small arches under the long approaches. Granite, with rustic voussoirs and bracketed cornice below the parapet. Has cartouches bearing the coats of arms of Surrey and in the spandrels either side of the centre arch. This replaced a stone arched bridge of 1784-9 by James Paine , which itself followed a bridge with seven arches of 1758-9 by John Barnard. Part in the Borough of Richmond. (qv.) [See Pevsner London 2: South p715.]

Other information: This is the third bridge on the site. The coats of arms of Middlesex and Surrey on the upstream parapet were damaged by shrapnel during WW2. It was opened in 1903 by King Edward VII and King Edward VII Bridge is its correct title. Winter 2009 local historian & heritage guide Janet McNamara was told by a neighbour that it’s not shrapnel marks as officially reported but that a German fighter plane flew along the river firing a machinegun.

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O’Riordans Pub (previously The Royal Tar / The Jolly Tar), 3 Brentford High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: See Pubs.

Other information:

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Watermans Park, Brentford

Original Use Park (previously part of the gas works)

Current Use Park

Construction ? Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation Thames Policy Area Area?

Brief Description: Cobbles from the Gas Works at the west end, which closed in 1963.

Other information:

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Lots Ait, Brentford

Original Use Island/Dock

Current Use Island/Dock

Construction ? Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Remains of boat building and repair wharves with dry dock. 2012 restoration with moorings and new bridge.

Other information:

8 Brentford Heritage List

The Old Fire Station, 55 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Fire Station

Current Use Bar/Restaurant

Construction 1897 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Value? Area, Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing description: Fire station, now office. 1897 by T H Nowell Parr for Brentford District Council,converted late C20. Red brick in Flemish bond with terracotta dressings; imitation Welsh slate roof with crested terracotta ridge tiles. 2 storeys with 3-storey bay at rear. 3 bays below paired gables. Chamfered plinth; moulded cornices and strings; moulded buttresses with decorative finials, to angles rising from ground floor impost level, and to gables which are set with decorative tiles. Openings have late C20 glazing with glazing bars and quoined round arches; the 2 ground floor engine entrances have pilaster jambs with fluted capitals; quoined jambs to the three windows above; the outer windows linked to entrances below by broad, swept, corbels; foundation stone between entrances and plaque above with the legend 'Fire Station', and District's coat of arms. Truncated lateral stack to right return, left bay, rising above 3-light mullioned and transomed window with segmental pediment; on the right is window and door with 4 sashes over and another to taller rear bay; parapet with moulded strings and parapet. Left return: taller rear bay has full-height round-arched window with keyed archivolt; round-arched doorway to its right, and two lst floor sashes; 2 truncated stacks breaking parapet. Rear: central corbelled lateral stack (truncated) flanked by sashes which are segmental-arched on ground and 1st floors. Interior: late C20 partitioning and mezzanine floor. At top of rear left bay (the escape and hose tower) are 12 rings in the ceiling from which hoses would have been hung.

Other information: Opened on 22 February 1898 with much pomp and celebration; ticket-holders were able to see inside. It was designed by Nowell Parr, surveyor to Brentford Urban District Council, and cost about £3,000. Built 1896 on land bought from the Parish to a design of Nowell Parr by Barnes of Brentford who apparently offered to withdraw as they had underestimated by £300. Faced with red terracotta Doulton tiles. Drill yard was to the east and the hose tower where leather hoses were hung to dry is still evident.

A horse-drawn steam pump was purchased by the Urban District Council in 1890, and was housed in the new fire station. The firemen used an escape, an extended ladder system, which they had to drag to the site of a fire, leaving them exhausted and unable to perform a rescue. A horse-drawn escape replaced it in 1906 and the first motor fire engine was bought in 1924.

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The Fire Station was altered and refitted many times between the 1920s and 1950s until it closed in 1965; then it was used by the ambulance service until the 1980s. In 1990 it was Listed and it became a restaurant “The Old Fire Station” in 2003.

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Waterman’s Arms, Ferry Lane, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Rebuilt 20th Date/Period century. Possibly designed by Nowell Parr.

Already Locally Listed Listed? as “1-3 Ferry Lane”

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: In existence since 1751. Rebuilt in 20th century. See Pubs Section.

Other information:

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Peerless Pumps, Ferry Lane, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Offices

Construction C1720 with Date/Period additions

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Circa 1720 with later wing, C20 alterations. Purple brick, hipped tiled roof, large square central brick chimney, deep eaves. Main front to river of three storeys, six bays, the windows 3 and 3, so possibly originally a pair. Roof of three parallel ridges with short projection to rear, probably to accommodate staircase. The late C18 extension runs out from this. Gauged flat brick arches to windows in flush moulded wood architraves, mostly early C19 sashes with glazing bars, but a few later casements. Some windows blocked. Bonds at floor levels. Openings of extension have new brickwork and sashes with glazing bars. Ground floor of this and of back of house now rendered with modern openings. Other modern extensions not of interest.

Other information: Home of the Rowe family, prosperous soap manufacturers, from 1806. They traded as Thames Soap works through the 18th & 19th centuries. Brentford was a centre for hard soap manufacturing, and it involved the use of a good deal of fat and lye, which had to be boiled; they had warehouses for the ingredients and soap boiling workshops with chimneys. The Thames Panorama of 1829/30 shows these with an enormous chimney just upstream. Water inlet is traditionally called Soap House Creek. The building has been called after the company who manufactured pumps. In the 1970s they supplied fire fighting pumps to North Sea oil rigs. Prior to Peerless it had been Varley Pumps. Gate and moorings installed 2011. “Peerless Pumps 1704, House on the site of the former Thames Soap Works (Messrs T B Rowe) of Ferry Lane, Brentford” Building currently showing signs of brickwork being over-cleaned.

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57-59 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Residential/Shop

Current Use Offices

Construction First mention of Date/Period occupants in 1801, although may be earlier

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Row of c18th century houses with shop fronts.

Other information: 57 (left of the picture) at one time used by Clarnico confectioners, makers of large caramels covered in pink or white icing. See www.bhsproject.co.uk for more info.

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60 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Police Station / Dairy

Current Use Offices

Construction Early 18th Date/Period Century

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: House. Early C18, altered. Brown brick; red brick dressings. Red tiled hipped roof to eaves. 3 storeys. 3 bays wide. C19 extension to front, with pilastered corner entrance and plate glass window. Original front wall nevertheless retained. Square, gauged headed windows, sashed with glazing bars to first floor. C20 windows to second floor. Interior retains original panelling exposed to all rooms except to ground floor front, original fire surrounds; original cornices. Original, open well staircase with turned and twisted balusters (many missing above first floor) and carved tread ends. A remarkably complete survival.

Other information: Original police station with yard in the front – this is now the area of a single storey office. It’s said that the original cells are still in the basement and there is an interesting set of steps and railings at the back of the building. The police station moved to No 40 High Street in 1869. There are pictures of a dairy on this site with a wall around the yard and the remains of old advertising hoardings that still show above the office on next door wall. Breeze blocks have been used to block up rear windows (see pic above). Not supposed to be used for a Grade II Listed Building. Also rear of building generally seems in bad repair.

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Former Rising Sun Pub (now Fat Boys Restaurant), 68 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Restaurant

Construction c18th Century Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information:

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1- 4 Pump Alley, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th century Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Row of cottages, grouped with nearby Pumping Station which was built by FW Lacy.

Other information:

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The Cottage & Pumping Station, Town Meadow, Brentford

Original Use Sewage Pumping Station

Current Use Offices

Construction 1883 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Brentford Sewage Pumping Station; engine shed and house, designed by FW Lacey, surveyor, 1883. Cotto & Beasley were the engineers for the engine shed, but there is no machinery left inside. Base of chimney & associated buildings – shed, supervisor’s and engineers’s cottages, all of the 1880s. Nowell Parr added new tanks, and a ‘destructor’ opposite the engine house, as well as the wall piers and gates at the entrance to the works in 1897. Frederick William Lacy (d.1916) lived at 62 High Street Brentford in the 1880s. He later moved to Bournemouth in 1889 where he became borough architect & surveyor, and designed many public buildings there. Became a fellow of the RIBA in 1898; and was highly respected at his death in 1916 in Bournemouth (RIBA Journal obituary, vol.23 1916 p.215). The decorated base of the chimney adjacent to the engine shed is a reminder of the many chimneys that dominated the area in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The station was built at a time when there was a desperate need to improve the sewage system in metropolitan areas of London, and is of some historic as well as architectural interest.

Other information: Originally built as a Council Depot at different times housing the sewage pumping works, stables, refuse destructor, dog pound and mortuary. The Sewage Pumping Station was one of the first public buildings erected by the Brentford Local Board in 1883. Restored c2010.

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Works or warehouse, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Warehouse?

Current Use Derelict

Construction Pre 1894 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Shown on 1894 map as part of Montgomrey’s Wharf & Saw Mill / Timber Yard business. Documented in 1909/10 valuation of Montgomrey & Son’s land as “Old Store Shed”

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION

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Dock Road, Brentford

Original Use Main road for dock thoroughfare

Current Use Mixed

Construction Actual Dock Date/Period constructed 1859 but Dock Rd may be much earlier.

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Value? Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: One of the principle north-south routes leading from High Street to former GWR dock. Road surface of granite sets is laid out in a striking fan pattern. Barlow rails are incorporated into base of fence at northern end of road. The setts in Dock Road have been re-laid in the fan and original pattern in 2009 after the water pipes were replaced but the GWR water hydrant cover outside the Hay and Straw Depot went missing. This was reported to Maggie Urquhart. The Hay and Straw Depot demolished in 2011 was built in the garden of no.80 for the Underwood business (see 80 High Street). Great Western Railway rails support the fence around the derelict Pharos Marine site. In 2012 MSO Marine built the bridge for Lots Ait in the yard at the back.

Other information:

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Beacon Works (Pharos Marine), Dock Rd, Brentford Original Use Works

Current Use Derelict

Construction c19th Date/Period century with 20th century additions

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Chimney and warehouse walls. The last chimney in an environment which was once dominated by industrial chimneys. The warehouse walls are c19th century, with 20th century additions.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION

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Jupps Warehouse (Overhanging warehouse at Town Wharf), Dock Rd, Brentford

Original Use Warehouse

Current Use Derelict

Construction c1930s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value? Partly in Grand Union Canal & Boston Manor Conservation Area

Brief Description: Piece of local history from the industrial 1930s. The Jupp Family traded in Brentford from 1826 until c1940 as coal merchants and later corn merchants. The premises was later used by Tunnel Portland Cement Co. Ltd.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION

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80 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Offices

Construction 18th Century Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Value? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: C18 house, now flats. Brown brick. 3-storeys. 2-1-2- double-hung sashes in flush surrounds with rubbed red brick flat arches. Central projection to facade. Graceful porch with "Tower of the Winds" columns and pilasters and entablature with carved frieze; open pediment, arched doorway with panelled intrados and traceried fanlight. Parapet, hipped Welsh slate roof. 2- storey left hand 1 window wing with ground floor archway. NMR.

Clarke Family lived here, from 18th century when the house was built (see 1771 map), until late into 19th century. Early in the 19th century John Clarke and his son Samuel were in the important trade of coal and lime dealing. By 1888 number 80 High Street had become the home of the Underwoods and was called Brentford House. The Underwoods were an early importer of Hay & Straw. The company employed 300 people and maintained a stable of 100 horses. The Underwoods also traded in lime, coal and coke. Underwoods Hay & Straw Warehouse, built in 1881 behind number 80, was a handsome red brick warehouse with three gables. It was demolished in 2011. Recently European HQ for the former World Trade Centre. Now Solicitors Office.

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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81 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Derelict

Construction 18th Century Date/Period

Already Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Value? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Neglected building that has been part of the Wilson & Kyle offices. 18th Century brick house, re-fronted in boldly detailed stucco in the 19th Century, and is possibly earlier, since the double-depth roof form could easily date from the late 17th Century In the 1920s it was the London Radio College set up to train radio operators for the merchant navy. The college moved to in the 1930s. 2012 – report that it is in a very bad state and unsafe and likely to be demolished with part of Wilson & Kyle for widening the junction at the Half Acre. Paul Kyle apparently said the place was “haunted”

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION.

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Wilson & Kyle Building, gates and workshop in the yard, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Works

Current Use Derelict

Construction C1950s Date/Period

Already No Listed? Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Precision engineering company set up in Catherine Wheel Yard in 1920s. Moved to buildings on the High Street in 1950s and closed in 1998.

2013 - Sadly likely to be demolished due to road widening, but attractive Art Deco gates will be retained in the new development.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION

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Still Yard (Ancient yard at Wilson & Kyle), High Street, Brentford

Original Use Yard shown on ancient maps

Current Use Derelict

Construction Pre 1600s Date/Period Photograph from Brentford High Street Community Vision Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Ancient yard shown on old maps, stretching from High Street to Thames River, via WK Factory.

Other information: Sept 2013: Yard will be incorporated into the redevelopment, as well as the historic gates.

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Wilson & Kyle Grinding Workshop (behind WK Building), Brentford

Original Use Workshop

Current Use Derelict

Photographs with kind permission from Janet McNamara Construction C1920s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Known as the Wilson and Kyle Grinding Workshop. “Contributes significantly to the distinctive character of area” English Heritage (2000).

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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Dry Dock, Dr Johnson’s Island North, Brentford

Original Use Dock

Current Use Artists studio Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision and boatyard

Construction Not known Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Grand Union & Boston Manor Value? Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: At the confluence of the Rivers Thames and Brent and the Grand Union Canal, the area was important historically for the barges that had carried goods to and from Birmingham Boat building has been happening in the area since the 1700s. Also known as Staffordshire Wharf. A Dr Johnson who made soaps, dyes and starches in the area lived in a “Staffordshire House”.

Other information:

27 Brentford Heritage List

Catherine Wheel Rd, Brentford

Original Use Original Yard

Current Use Mixed

Construction Not known Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Previously named Catherine Wheel Yard. One of the ancient yards leading from the High Street to the Thames. The Beehive Brewery operated from along here (behind the Brewery Tap) at one point. The building was later used as Soap Works.

Other information:

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Brewery Tap PH, Catherine Wheel Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1928 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Value? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information:

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Warehouse / studio buildings, Catherine Wheel Rd, Brentford

Original Use Warehouse?

Current Use Derelict

Construction c1860s-1870s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Buildings (opposite Brewery Tap) shown on map of 1865; and 1893 and 1912 (OS maps).

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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Plough Yard (now part of Brent Way), Brentford

Original Use Original Yard

Current Use Now part of Brent Way

Construction Not known Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Ancient yard, including two possible 19th century buildings

Other information:

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Bradshaw’s Yard/ Workhouse Dock Brentford

Original Use Wharfs/Docks

Current Use Docks

Construction c.1800 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Grand Union & Boston Manor Value? Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Early wharfs along this stretch on Moses Glover map (1645) were called Ye Pye Wharf, Ye Wolfe Wharf and Ye Whele Wharf. Workhouse Dock is marked on Boston Manor map c.1800. Slipway of particular interest.

Other information:

32 Brentford Heritage List

NatWest Bank, 100- 101 High Street, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Bank

Current Use Bank

Construction 1929 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Rebuilt in 1929 to be used as a bank. English Heritage (2000) “contributes significantly to the distinctive character of area”

Well-loved landmark. A good example of a Martin’s bank of the 1920s.

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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102-6 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Shops

Current Use Post Office & Shops

Construction ? Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Buildings form a group with decoration above. Was clearly a building of some importance due to decoration.

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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107-111 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Bradbury’s Shop

Current Use Row of shops

Construction Between Date/Period 1910 and 1930

Already No Listed?

Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: First shop in this group fills in what was the alley through to Bradbury’s yard and down to the wharf on the canal. Bradburys were wholesale grocers founded c1840. By the 1890s they occupied 108 and 109 and ran a fleet of 20 horse drawn vans delivering to shops up to 20 miles away. Their warehouse is still at the rear. It has a cobbled yard, remains of the hoist and metal window frames. The firm closed in the 1960s.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT FROM DEMOLITION

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Bradbury’s wholesale grocers warehouses and yard (behind no.s 107-11 High St), Brentford

Original Use Warehouses

Current Use Part derelict

Construction c. 1850-1870 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Accessed from what is now Brent Way. c.1870. Very good red brickwork with white brick arches and very good cast iron window frames. One of the few surviving industrial buildings left south of the High Street, and a survivor of a much larger complex of buildings belonging to Bradbury’s which stretched back from the shop at 108 High Street down to the Grand Junction Canal. There, stables for delivery horses were built (since demolished). In Brent Way, a plaque marking the boundary of Bradbury’s premises is bonded into the wall, date 1891. English Heritage (2000) “contributes significantly to the distinctive character of area”.

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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Boar’s Head Yard, Brentford

Original Use Original Yard

Current Use Mixed

Construction Pre 1635 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Photographs from Brentford High Street Community Vision

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Ancient yard between what is now the Dew Drop Inn & Magpie & Crown. First appears on Moses Glover map (1635), although a property known as The Boars Head was already in existence in 1614.

Other information:

37 Brentford Heritage List

Stables & Victorian Cottages, 1 Brent Way (Boars Head Yard), Brentford

Original Use Stables & Cottages

Current Use Derelict / Garage

Construction 19th Date/Period century

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: The sole remaining survivors of waterfront building along the Brent that have been recognisable icons in photos and artworks from the mid-nineteenth Century. A great deal of restoration would need to be done to repair the violation of the garage lean-to. According to evidence from the BHS Project, these cottages were thought to be inhabited by canal people and workers at the local Jam factory.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT FROM DEMOLITION

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Old Wall, Brent Way, Brentford

Original Use Wall

Current Use Wall, still standin g

Construction 1600s Date/Period at a guess?

Already No Listed?

Map, date unknown but pre 1800s, supplied by Nigel Moore. Arrow shows position of wall.

Photograph of wall from the southernmost end, close to the bank of Workhouse Dock. Supplied by Nigel Moore.

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: The old wall forms the boundary between Ridgeways and Heldite, running through to Brent Way alongside the west wall of the old BB Muffins building [so can be seen from Brent Way]. The interesting bit is the projection near the NW corner of the Dock, where it is revealed to incorporate timber within the brickwork.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT FROM DEMOLITION

39 Brentford Heritage List

Magpie & Crown PH, 128 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Public House

Current Use Public House

Construction Original Date/Period building 1614, rebuilt in late 1920s / early 1930s?

Possible Nowell Parr connection.

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information:

40 Brentford Heritage List

129-130 High Street (Motorwise), Brentford

Original Use Residential/Shops

Current Use Shops

Construction C1700 with c19 Date/Period alterations

Already Grade II Statutory Listed? Listed

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Pair of houses, now served by a common entrance and with ground-floor shop premises. c1700 with C19 alterations. Brick, rendered to front and side, tiled roof. Rectangular plan of three storeys with one-and-a-half storey outshut to rear, entry to upper floors now from No 130. Each house is two-bays wide, No 130 slightly projecting and with the higher roof Ground floor with Victorian shopfront with raised fascia that cuts into first floor supported on single giant Corinthian column in centre. Late C20 door of no interest to No 129; side door to No 130 six-panelled and may be Cl8. The upper windows are curiously broad for their height, with a variety of early and mid-C19 glazing in moulded architrave surrounds, those to the first floor under console brackets. Interior retains open-well stair rising the height of the building set against west wall of No 130. It has turned newels and handrail, whose form is reflected in the dado panelling of the walls. Closed string stair set with barley-sugar turned balusters. Each upper floor retains one early C19 fireplace with cast-iron surround and grate.

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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131-134 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Residential/Shops

Current Use Shops

Construction C18th century Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: “Four 18th century houses needing interior inspection” (EH 2000). Although these buildings are not listed, they match the adjacent 18th century buildings which are statutorily listed and give us an idea of the High Street pre 1960s.

Other information:

Sept 2013: Ballymore states these buildings will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

42 Brentford Heritage List

The Rectory, 138/9 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Vicarage

Current Use Residential divided into flats

Construction C1889 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Value? Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Originally built as St Lawrence’s Vicarage c1889.

Other information: SEPT 2013: UNDER THREAT OF DEMOLITION

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St Lawrence’s Church, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Derelict

Construction 15th century th Date/Period with 18 century additions

Already Grade II* Listed? Statutory Listed ON ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK” REGISTER

Photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Value? Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See Churches Section

Other information: Sept 2013: Ballymore states this building will be retained and incorporated into the new development.

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Six Bells PH, 148 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Rebuilt 1904 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Value? Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section

Other information:

45 Brentford Heritage List

The Ham Schoolroom, The Ham, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Nursery

Construction 1895 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “New Brentford School”

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: See Schools Section.

Other information:

46 Brentford Heritage List

Brentford Bridge, Brentford

Original Use Bridge

Current Use Bridge

Construction 1818 Date/Period with 1901 additions

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Value? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: The first bridge was built over the Brent in 1284. When the canal opened in 1794 there was a three arched brick bridge and the first lock was above the bridge. This led to difficulties getting boats through the bridge and when Thames Lock was built in 1818 a single arch granite bridge was built in 1824 by Robert Sibley to carry the main road west. Altered in 1893 when an iron casing was erected by the Grand Junction Water Works Company to carry more pipes across the bridge. This structure is visible from the canal towpath under the present bridge that had to be widened to allow access to the trams in 1901.

Other information:

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Remnants of old Brunel Railway Bridge, Brentford

Original Use Bridge

Current Use Mostly derelict / Storage / Car Section crossing The Ham repair yard

Construction 1859 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Section between The Ham & canal

View from Brentford Bridge east of canal

Section on London Rd, west of Canal

Cobbled courtyard west of canal

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

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Brief Description: Remnants of the old Great Western and Brentford (Thames Junction) Freight Railway Line, built 1859. Terminated in a dock now occupied by Brentford Marina and housing estate. The last railway project to be engineered by I K Brunel. Originally the purpose of the line was to transport Welsh Coal, but many other goods were transported along this line. With the opening of the factories along the Great West Rd in 1925 came much more of a variety of goods. By 1951 there were 25 freight trains a day on the line. A passenger service on the line was attempted on two occasions. The dock closed in 1964 and there was now no longer use for the railway. The Cobbled courtyard to the west of the railway embankment was originally the entrance to the Great Western Railway passenger station that closed in the 1940s and is in Parish. Now part of car repair yard.

Other information:

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Commerce Rd, Brentford

Original Use Factories & Tram Depot

Current Use Part offices, part bus depot, part derelict

Construction 1930s-1950s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Originally nursery grounds to the west of the and in Isleworth Parish so most records are in Library. Tram Depot early 20c. Factories built in1930s and 1950s, some with Art Deco fronts. 2013 Large development being built on East side, between Commerce Rd and Canal. The intention is to retain the art deco fronts of some of the old factories.

Other information:

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Toll House, Gauging Lock, Brentford

Original Use Toll House

Current Use Museum

Construction 1911 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Value? Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Canal toll house. Dated 1911. Built of stock brick with black brick dressings and Westmoreland slate roof with terracotta ridge tiles and yellow and black brick chimneystack with stonecornice and terracotta chimneystacks. One storey; two windows to front. Splayed bays to each end with wooden casement windows. Projecting eaves cornice with large wooden brackets and colonnettes. Off central doorcase with chamfered wooden lintel. Original four-panelled door with deep fielded lower panels and one panel of engraved glass remaining to the top right hand panel (the other replaced). Two steps and large curved iron footscraper to right hand side. Rear elevation has projection one window and door in cambered entrance. Front elevation has attached cement flower bed border. INTERIOR: comprises lobby with manager's Office, clerk's office and washroom to rear. Manager's office has built-in cupboards with ledger rack at top, tiled fire surround and four- panelled door. Clerk's office has built-in desk, ramped on two sides and with brass fittings, for recording tolls and there is a half-glazed door for paying tolls.

Other information:

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Overhanging Warehouse, Grand Union Canal, Brentford

Original Use Warehouse

Current Use Derelict

Construction 1960s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Value? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: This is a piece of industrial history from the 1960s, formerly known as the Brentford Depot. A freight terminal at which barges and carriers (called lighters) from the Thames and docks, which were too wide for the canals of central , transferred their loads onto narrow boats, to be taken up the canal as far as Birmingham. Even into the early 20th century, 20,000 narrow boats loaded up here each year. There’s still remains of the moving cranes and entry to the warehouse above the concrete wall into the building that opens on to Commerce Road. Change and redevelopment approaching 2013.

Other information:

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Magistrates Court, Market Place, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Magistrates Court

Current Use Closed for redevelopment

Construction 1850 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? The Butts Conservation Value? Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See The Butts Section.

Other information:

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The Beehive PH, 227 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 19th century Date/Period Designed by Nowell Parr

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information:

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County Court, High Street, Brentford

Original Use County Court

Current Use County Court

Construction 1963 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Designed by the Chief Architects Division of the Ministry of Public Buildings, senior architect CG Pinfold FRIBA AMTPI and opened by the Lord Chancellor the Right Hon Lord Dilhorne in January 1963. Has reinforced concrete frame with concrete floors and roof. Side wall are finished with Derbyshire Spar and grey polished slate panels. Royal coat of arms carved in Portland stone.

Other information:

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Brentford Monument, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Monument

Current Use Monument

Construction 1909 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Built from Peterhead granite that was originally part of Brentford Bridge. Unveiled by the Ferry in 1909 but moved into a niche in Ferry Lane in the 1950s and the High Street outside the County Court in the 1980s. Panels tell of 4 historic events in the history of the town. 54BC fording of the Thames by Julius Caesar (this site is now questionable), King Offa’s Church Council meeting AD780/81, King Edmund Ironside battling Canute and the Danes at the ford in 1016 and fighting during the English Civil War in 1642 (the Battle of Brentford). At some time the drums have been aligned wrongly – certainly differently from the way it appears on photographs of the unveiling by the Duke of Northumberland and it has lost the plinth on which it originally stood.

Other information:

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Alexandra House, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Health Centre

Current Use Resource Centre

Construction 1938 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Listed

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Health centre, formerly also with juvenile employment bureau to rear. 1937-8 by L A Cooper and K P Goble, respectively borough engineer and architectural assistant to Brentford and Chiswick MB. Brick with concrete floors and flat roofs, some projecting, some hidden behind high parapets. One and two storeys to an irregular plan set round a double-height waiting hall to rear of site; south elevation to Brentford High Street of two storeys with tower incorporating caretaker's flat. Irregular elevations with projecting curves to west and extended concrete canopies to entrances at north, south and east. All windows metal casements with strongly horizontal glazing- bar pattern.Tall metal window and clerestorey in tower are particularly telling parts of the composition. Some round metal portal windows, particularly at southern entrance and in tower. Interior not inspected. The external walls to west and south, the latter with iron railings - repeating the horizontal motif of the fenestration - curved walls and steps, are an important element in the way the composition builds up to the tower and waiting room, and articulate the raised site, and sentinel quality of this 'tower of health'. Gates develop the horizontal motif as a grid, with expressive curve also. Small single-storey additions within courtyard, set behind eastern elevation, not-of special interest.

Other information: Opened 1938 as health centre and juvenile employment exchange on the site of the British (later Rothschild) School. By LA Cooper and KP Goble Borough Engineer and Architect to Brentford & Chiswick Council. Pevsner describes it as ‘low brick in the Dudok manner popular in the 1930s for progressive social buildings by the Middlesex County Council’. Designed by MCC architects dept. Doctor’s surgery closed in 1996 when new health centre opened in Boston Manor Road.

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St George’s Schoolroom, High Street, Brentford

Original Use School Room

Current Use Derelict

Construction 1786 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Listed as “St George’s Church Hall”

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: See Schools Section.

Other information:

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St George’s Church, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Derelict

Construction 1887 Date/Period

Already Locally listed Listed? as “Church now Musical Museum, Rd”

Interior Photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: See Churches Section.

Other information:

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405-7 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th Date/Period century or earlier

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: Row of cottages next to petrol station, opposite O’Riordan’s Pub. And Lamb Passage, old buildings that were used as a slaughter house.

Other information:

Lamb Passage. Not possible to obtain access through the gates, but roof of building visible through the gates is thought to be part of the old slaughter house.

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Kew Bridge Pumping Station (now The Steam Museum), High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pumping Station

Current Use Museum

Construction 1830s Date/Period

Already Grade I and Listed? II Statutory Listed, see below

Group Yes Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Value? Area Thames Policy Area

Description: Great Engine House 1845 and 1869/70 [Grade I listed] EH Listing description: Engine house. 1845-6 and 1869-70; for the Grand Junction Water Works Company. Roman cement. Rectangular plan. 3 storeys, 2 x 2 bays, the eastern half being added 1869-70. Round-headed windows with glazing bars in 3-storey, round-headed, shallow recesses with archivolts linked by moulded impost band. Bold cornice. Flat roof. On east side, entrance on left has steps with decorative cast-iron balustrade up to board double door below fanlight. Attached compression cylinders. Interior: magnificent contemporary beam pumping engines filling the 3 storeys of the building, one by Harvey and Company of Hayle, Cornwall, 1869; the other of 1846 by Sandy Carne and Vivian of Copperhous Foundry, Hale; immense cast-iron Doric columns provide support for the beam axle, and the cylinders also are fluted. Two cast-iron galleries, at different levels. Roof is timber lined. Main Building/Engine House [Grade I listed] EH Listing Description: Engine house. 1836-8, by W M Coe, engineer to the Grand Junction Water Works Company; later alterations, and small addition of c1900. 2 storeys, 7 x 4 bays, with small single-storey 2 x 3-bay addition to east side. Silver grey brick with silver Aberdeen granite window cills, plinth, doorcase, cornice etc. 3:1:3 bays. Bold central doorcase having rusticated surround with cornice and blocking course, panelled door below overlight with glazing bars. Round-headed windows to ground floor, square-headed windows above linked by cill band, all small-paned with pivoting casements. Cornice and blocking course. Compression cylinder attached, on left of entrance. Right return similar, but partially masked by addition of cream brick with door and blind, round-arched, window and 3 round-arched windows to

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right return. Left return masked by addition, which is listed with the boiler houses (q.v). Interior: Boulton and Watt pumping engine of 1820 moved here in 1838 from the Grand Junction Water Works at Chelsea; a Cornish Bull Engine of 1859, and other objects brought from elsewhere. The extension was built to house an economiser (to preheat water for boilers). Pump House Tower [Grade I listed] EH Listing Description: Stand-pipe tower. 1867. Builders Messrs Aird and Sons for the Grand Junction Water Works Company. Rendered brick with rendered dressings. Tower is square in plan, tapering in its height to the square base of the octagonal cupolas, to which the plan changes by means of squinches on the 4 corners. There are 2 large cornices, the lower forming the top of the plinth of the tower which is just under a third of its height. The upper-cornice is immediately below the squinches to the upper cupola, and has modillions. The plinth has a secondary plinth, cement rendered, banding approximately one third of its height and has 3 pilasters with rendered imposts and 2 semi-circular arches with ventilation slits in the recessed panels. This is on all 4 sides. The shaft has a rendered plinth of banding also 3 pilasters and 2 rendered arches with rendered imposts. Semi-cicular above there is a circular window with a large arch springing from the 2 outside pilasters. The cupola has slender openings in each face surmounted by a rendered arch on rendered imposts on all 8 sides. The shaft of the cupola is topped by a very simple banded capping. The cupola formerly had a copper dome. A ball and metal rod with lighting conductor forms the terminal finial to the tower. The tower contained a 4-foot rising and a 3-foot falling pipe, and replaced an earlier standpipe which was damaged by severe frost. Ancillary buildings [Grade II listed] EH Listing Description: Stables, forge, carpenter's shop and machine shop, now outbuildings, forge and workshops. Probably 1845-6, rebuilding and alterations late C19. For the Grand Junction Water Works Company. Brownish brick in Flemish bond; Welsh slate roofs with some replacement corrugated asbestos. Long single-storey range. From left: gabled mid C20 bay not of special interest. Gabled bay with wide board door below segmental brick arch; hipped roof. 4-bay formerly open-fronted shelter having iron columns on chamfered padstones carrying timber wall plate; all but 3rd bay infilled on left having brick infill with doors and windows, on right having shop front;2-span roof. 8-bay late C19 workshop range having chamfered stone lintels to openings, the windows large, in recesses with chamfered black-brick plinths, agd having 9-pane pivoting casements; double board doors; forge, on left, has stable door flanked by windows, and 2 metal flues and 2 gabled ridge louvres to roof; former carpenter's shop has door with window to right; machine shop on right has door with 2 windows to right, and stack to rear. Interior: machine shop has overhead shafts, wheels and belts of machinery; forge has 2 forges. Included for group value. Boiler House [Grade II listed] EH Listing Description: Boiler houses, coal store, steam engine house, and link corridor. 1836-8, 1845-6 c1855-9, and 1890-91. For the Grand Junction Water Works Company. 1836-8 work of brown brick, 1890s work of cream brick, all in Flemish bond; mid C19 work of brick with Roman cement; Welsh slate roofs. The buildings lie to the rear and left side of the Main Building (q.v) and link it to the Great Engine House (q.v). Immediately behind the Main Building is the original boiler house with coal store beyond, of 1836-8. When the Great Engine House was built 1845-6 a linking corridor was also built, running to it from the east side of the boiler house. Probably c1855-9 a second boiler house was built behind the linking corridor. 1890-91 a steam engine house was built along the left (west) side of the Main Building with a high-pressure boiler house behind, further (later) addition beyond that. Behind the original coal store is 89 addition which is not of special interest. Link corridor (south elevation) of one storey, 3 bays, has round- arched arcade with archivolts linked by impost band, double board door up steps on left, and 2 small-pane windows. The later boiler house east elevation has 6 bays under 2 gables; below each gable a central doorway with fanlight flanked by windows in recesses with 2 small circular windows over; left bay retains original small-pane window, others altered; left doorway has double board door, right doorway enlarged; openings have archivolts linked by moulded impost band; gabled ridge lights; 4-bay north elevation has segmental-arched windows in recesses and impost band. The 1890-91 range, west elevation, of 2 and 5 bays, has chamfered black brick plinth, board doors, 12- pane windows with pivoting casements and stone cills and lintels, stepped eaves; porch added at left (north) end. 1836-38 Boiler House and Coal Store largely masked by other buildings, but on east side at south end are 2 round-arched windows with glazing bars, and inside are other oringal round- arched openings, the coal store north wall having also pilaster butresses. The early boiler house has iron columns, braced steel trusses, and a gabled ridge light. Gatehouse & boundary wall [Grade II listed] EH Listing description: Porters' lodge, office and meter room, c.1838; with laboratory added c.1902; front rebuilt after bomb damage in 1918; now gatehouse. Boundary wall c.1845. London stock brick with brick ridge stack and slate roof. PLAN: Two office rooms on the N side, with porter's lodge on S by former station entrance, and laboratory

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behind. EXTERIOR: Single storey with parapeted, twin-gabled front to east, office doorway under flat hood with a segmental-arched window to right, boarded at time of inspection and a bracketed canopy in the gable protected the station clock, now in the Museum. Gable to the left set back with entrance to the former Lodge, attached to gate pier (qv). The right return has a wide window set forward, formerly to the Superintendent's office. Former laboratory added to rear with matching gable. The boundary wall extends approx. 80m to the west. INTERIOR: Functional interior without decorative details; fireplaces blocked. HISTORY: The pumping station was designed by William Anderson for the Grand Junction Waterworks Company, to extract river water from the Thames. It started pumping in 1838. Filter beds were dug to the rear of the gatehouse in 1845, and extraction moved to Hampton, above the tidal reach, in 1855. Kew is the oldest waterworks in the world containing its original steam pumping engines, and is the most complete early pumping station in Britain. For its early date and for the completeness of the station, including the offices and gatehouse, it is the most important historic site of the water industry in the country. The gatehouse forms part of Anderson's original layout of the waterworks, and contained the station's main offices, a room for the gate porter to check visitors in and out, and meter rooms for monitoring the station's output. After nationalisation under the Metropolitan Water Board in 1903 a laboratory was included for water analysis, a very early example indicating the more scientific approach to water provision in the C20. The front was damaged and rebuilt in 1918 after one of the first German bomber raids on London. Railings, two sets gate piers and wall fronting Kew Bridge Road. (Grade II listed).EH Listing Description: Heavy iron railings on stone plinth. Spear head standards alternate with spikes at bottom rail. 2 sets of gate piers, brick, stone cap with cornice. Brown brick wall to right.

Other information: Built for the Grand Junction Water Company from 1830s – now the oldest water works in the world containing its original steam pumping engines. It’s the most complete early pumping station in Britain. The tower blocks at the back were built c1970 on the filter beds and are called Cornish (Cornish beam engines used at the water works), Harvey (Harvey’s of Hale supplied engines), Boulton (partner of James Watt who developed steam engines for pumping), Maudsley (mechanical engineer who supplied first engine), Wicksteed (engineer who realised the efficiency of Cornish engines to drain mines) and Fraser (designer of the Tower built in 1867 to protect the stand pipe.

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Green Dragon Lane Cottages, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th Date/Period century

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Area Value?

Brief Description: Row of Victorian cottages on East end of Green Dragon Lane

Other information:

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Brunswick Villas, Kew Bridge Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction c. 1820s Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Area Value?

Brief Description: Row of attractive 19th century town houses next to Steam Museum, recently refurbished. Lion statue on roof of number 47. There is a very strong case for dating these houses to the 1820s, perhaps named by someone who felt Caroline of Brunswick had been very badly treated (her dates are 1768-1821). There was an outpouring of sympathy after her death which was politically strong and members of the royal household going to and from Kew would have been faced with a noticeable name stone. Possibly the lion is significant in heraldic terms.

Other information:

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The Express PH, Kew Bridge Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1860s Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed? as “56 Kew Bridge Rd, plus numbers 57-60 Kew Bridge Rd”

Group Yes Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Value? Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section

Other information:

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57-60, Kew Bridge Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential/ Shops

Current Use Vacant

Construction 19th century Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “56 Kew Bridge Rd, plus numbers 57-60 Kew Bridge Rd”

Group Yes Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Value? Area

Brief Description: Row of c19th century houses with shop fronts. 2013 in poor condition.

Other information:

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Kew Bridge Rail Station, Kew Bridge Rd, Brentford

Original Use Railway Station

Current Use Railway Station

Construction 1850 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed ON ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK” REGISTER

Group No Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Area Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Railway Station. 1850 by Sir William Tite for the London & South Western Railway. Yellow stock brick with stucco bands & quoins. Slated, hipped roof with tall, brick chimney stacks. 2 storeys to front, 3 to rear. 3 windows. Central, round-arched entrance with double doors & fanlight. Architraved head linked to flanking window heads by impost bands; right-hand window with margin glazing; left- hand converted to a shop front. 1st floor 4-pane sashes with stucco sill band continuing around the building. Rear elevation in similar style with round-arched margin glazed windows corresponding to the front. A steep stair links the entrance at road level to the platform. EH “At Risk” Description: Railway station built 1850 by Sir William Tite for the London and South Western Railway. Largely unoccupied, boarded up and deterioration increasing. Externally weathertight. No longer required for railway use and is likely to be sold. Nearby development site now under construction may help as a catalyst for combined action by English Heritage, the Local Authority and others.

Other information: At time of writing 2013, refurbishment seems to be taking place to preserve the shell of the building.

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Area ‘B’: The Butts and surrounds

Including Upper Butts, Church Walk, Somerset Rd (west) and Market Place.

NOTE: Contrary to some English Heritage listing descriptions, The Butts actually dates from 1680 onwards, developed by William Parish, owner of the famous Red Lion Pub in Brentford. Also at least two houses had been built by 1690 by William Baldwin, carpenter, who made his will that year (see the National Archives). Therefore some buildings marked 18th century may in fact be earlier. The Butts was used for Markets from 1679 and Parliamentary elections between 1701 and 1885.

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St Raphael’s or St Mary’s Convent, The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential/Convent

Current Use Convent/Residential Care Home

Construction 18th century with Date/Period later additions

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed as St Raphael’s, but also known as St Mary’s.

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: C18 with modern additions. Brown brick. 2-storeys, 4 double-hung sashes in reveals with flat arches. Rusticated door surround with keystones, consoles, pediment. 6 fielded panel door. Ground floor projects with flat roof with balustrade above. Hipped Welsh slate roof with modillion cornice and parapet. NMR.

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Other information: 18th century house thought to date from 1792. Chapel added 1913-14. Originally Egglesfield House lived in by Dr Cooper. Bought by Frances Margaret Taylor (Mother Mary Magdalen) in 1880. She was a Catholic convert from Anglicanism who had nursed in the Crimea and founded the Congregation of the Poor Servants of the Mother of God to serve the urban poor (originally in London) in 1869. The house provides a home for women with learning difficulties. At east end, 1920s building was called St Raphael’s but recently has become Taylor House. Building on West End is now Maryville Care Home. Also mentioned on English Heritage website: “St Mary's Convent in Brentford was one of the most important convents of the Congregation of the Poor Servants of the Mother of God (SMG). It operated as a 'central house of work', generating an income that helped support the smaller convents. Like St Marye's, Portslade, the congregation adapted and added to an existing house which they first leased in 1880. As the local community regarded the congregation with suspicion (reflecting the strong vein of anti-Catholicism in wider Victorian society) Frances Taylor, foundress of the SMGs, had to conduct the negotiations to secure the building in secular dress. The SMG archives reveal extremely detailed accounts of the successive building programmes at their convents, describing the disputes that arose between the building contractors, architects and sisters. Diary entries show the extent of knowledge that sisters acquired about the building process in order to ensure that convent building was carried out exactly to their specification. “

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1-11, The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th Century Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: These Victorian houses on the north side of The Butts were built in what had been Ronald’s orchard. They appear on the 1894 OS map. The Ronalds was very significant in horticulture as one of them developed many kinds of new apple. The orchards may have extended as far north as what is now Somerset Rd.

Other information:

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16 & 18 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 17th century with th Date/Period 18 century additions

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Pair of C18 stucco cottages. 2-storeys, 4 double-hung sashes. No 16 ground floor window has no glazing bars. Door-hoods on brackets. Old tile roof. Modern dormer. NMR. In poor repair at time of re-survey (July 1951).

Other information: EH Description requires updating: Owner confirms that contrary to EH description, the interior of the cottages is half timbered and is actually 17th century or earlier. Glazing bars have now been replaced and the 2 cottages have been made into 1 house.

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20 & 22 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Pair of early C18 cottages. Brown brick with red brick dressings. 2-storeys and attic, 4 double-hung sashes in architraves; ground floor windows and doorways have flat arches. 4-panel doors, rectangular traceried fanlights. Modillion eaves cornice, old tile roof, 2 dormers. Interior: original stairs and fireplaces. RCHM. NMR. All the listed buildings in The Butts form a group.

Other information:

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17 The Butts “Beaufort House” and 15 The Butts “Chatham House”, Brentford Original Use Residential 17 Current Use Residential

Construction 18th Century or Date/Period earlier

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing 15

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Early C18 pair of houses. Brown brick with red brick dressings. 2-storeys and attic, 4 double-hung sashes in flush surrounds with cills and rubbed flat arches. Brick band above ground floor. Modillion eaves cornice, hipped tiled roof. 2 dormers. No 15 - 4 fielded panel door with traceried fan. No 17 - Original door surround, architrave, consoles, carved frieze, modillion cornice. Good wrought iron gate with lampholder, wall. Interior: original stairs. Now 3 flats (July 1951). RCHM. NMR.

Other information:

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17A The Butts “The Coach House”, Brentford

Original Use Coach House

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th Century or Date/Period earlier

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: Originally the Coach House to number 17 The Butts. Coaches came in through the large gates at the front (now a garden), and in through large doors on the ground floor (now French windows).

In 1977 a mummified cat was found in the attic – thought to have been put there to ward off evil spirits.

Garden wall south-west side partly rebuilt in early 1980s, due to clay brick bowing with age. Extension built in mid 1980s on north side as a utility room, in sympathetic style. Extended further in 2012 as a kitchen extension.

Other information:

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19 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century or Date/Period earlier

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: EH Listing Description: Early C18. 2-storey, tile roof, 2 dormers. 4 windows, cambered relieving arches. 6-panel door, moulded wood architrave, bracketed hood. RCHM. NMR.

Other information:

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23 The Butts “Linden House” and 21 The Butts” Cobden House”, Brentford

Original Use Residential 23 Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century or Date/Period earlier

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing 21

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Early C18 pair of houses. Brown brick. 2-storeys, basement and attic, 4 double-hung sashes in architraves. Doorways: No 21 has rectangular fanlight and bracketed doorhood; No 23 traceried fanlight, brackets, dentil cornice hood. Mansard old tile roof, 4 dormers. Modern extension to left. RCHM. NMR.

Other information: Number 21 interior still has the original wooden paneling and staircase. According to records, the houses were in existence pre 18th century.

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24 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century or as Date/Period early as 1690

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Early C18. Brown brick with red brick dressings. 2-storeys, basement and attic, 4 double-hung sashes in plain surrounds. Basement has plinth, windows have cambered relieving arches; ground floor windows have segmental arches with projecting keystones. Sunk rectangular window apron panels below 1st floor windows. Modillion eaves cornice, machine tile hipped roof, 2 segmental- headed dormers. Doorway: 6 fielded panel door, traceried fanlight, surround of narrow panels, bracketed hood. NMR.

Other information: According to historical records, this building could be as early as 1690.

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26 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Doctors Surgery/ Residential?

Construction 18th century Date/Period or as early as 1690

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: EH Listing description: Early C18. Similar to No 24. Brown brick with red brick dressings. 2-storeys, basement and attic, 6 windows. Basement has plinth, windows have cambered relieving arches; ground floor windows have segmental arches; with projecting keystones. Sunk rectangular window apron panels below 1st floor windows. Modillion eaves cornice, machine tile hipped roof, 2 segmental-headed dormers. Doorway; 6 fielded panel door, traceried fanlight, surround of narrow panels, bracketed hood. 6 windows. NMR.

Other information: 18th century house used as the local hospital from 1890s to 1920s when the Cottage Hospital was built. According to historical records, this building could be as early as 1690.

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31 & 32 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: C18. Brown brick. 2-storey, 2 windows flush frame wood reveals, glazing bars. 2 later dormers. Slate mansard roof. Ground floor windows have cambered arches. Modern door with blocked fan and hood. NMR.

Other information:

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36, 36A and 38 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Toll House and cottages

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period or earlier

Already No Listed?

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: c18th century. Protruding Toll house on the left is likely to be earlier than the other cottages. There originally would have been a path through to the High Street from next to these cottages, through what is now Caxton Mews.

Other information:

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40 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing description: C18. Brown brick. 3-storeys. 2 double-hung sashes in reveals with red brick rubbed flat arches, no glazing bars (at time of listing July 1951). Very fine doorway, fluted Corinthian pilasters, entablature with carved frieze and dentil cornice, panelled reveal, altered 6- panel door. Central 1st floor window has semi- circular arch and raised keystone. Rendered plinth. NMR.

Other information:

EH Listing requires update: Glazing bars reinstalled.

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42 – 46 The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: Row of houses, 18th century or earlier.

Other information:

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The Gables, 1 Brent Rd, The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 1887 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: The owner 2009 has been researching the history and occupants of this house built for FW Lacey the local surveyor (designer of The Old Pumping Station) in 1887

Other information:

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Boatmen’s Institute, The Butts, Brentford

Original Use Community centre for Canal Families

Current Use Residential

Construction 1904 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listing

Interior photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area Value?

Description: EH Listing Description: Boatman's institute, later house. Built in 1904 for The London City Mission by architect Noel Parr. Arts and Crafts style. Comprised two schoolrooms on the ground floor with living accomodation above. EXTERIOR: Brick and pebbledashed with red brick quoins and pantiled roof with two brick chimneystacks. Two storeys : irregular fenestration. First floor has central large wooden window based on Sparrowe's House Ipswich , replaced in later C20 in replica. This is a triple window supported on 4 moulded wooden brackets. Above is a curved gable with the date 1904 and "BOATMAN’S INSTITUTE: This is flanked by two tall narrow windows, the upper halves with glazing bars, the lower with central division. Very tall ground floor, to accomodate the height of the schoolrooms, has at the top a continuous 8-light window. Below this is a projecting central battered porch with wide entrance flanked by two triple windows. To the left is a cambered casement window and to the right a cambered doorcase. Beneath the ground floor windows are a series of small tablets to benefactors which include the wife of the architect. The rear elevation has stock brick ground floor and pebbledashed first floor. Red brick quoins and band between floors. Three 12-pane sashes to first floor. Ground floor has late C20 brick extension. INTERIOR: Ground floor retains original folding wooden and glazed screen separating the larger and smaller schoolroom. Original wooden dogleg staircase with stick balusters and urn finials to newel posts. Several good quality metal Art Nouveau firegrates remain and original 4-panelled doors. HISTORY: The Boatman's Institute provided basic education including religious instruction to the children of boatmen and two rooms of the living accomodation above were used as maternity provision for boatmen's wives until the National Health Service was set up. Only 5 or 6 examples of boatmen's institutes are thought to exist nationally. [See Carolyn and Peter Hammond "Brentford" in the Archive Photographs Series Tempus 1998 p109.]

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Other information: Built on the site of a water mill in Arts & Crafts style to a design of Nowell Parr for the London City Mission to provide a Minister for canal families, a community centre and maternity hospital and schooling for the children. It seems there was a library for some time but there were difficulties in getting the books back. Foundation stones were laid in July 1904 by a number of local worthies and their wives. It closed in 1978 and is now a private house. The back of the building opens on to the River Brent where the weir and water controls from the earlier mill can be seen. It has been described as ‘more Voysey than Nowell Parr’.

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1 Upper Butts “Glan Helen”, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Early 18th Date/Period century

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: EH Listing Description: Early C18. Brown brick. 2 storeys and attic, 5 double-hung sashes in surrounds and cambered relieving arches. Modern door, traceried fanlight, reeded surround, hood. Modillions eaves cornice, old red tile roof, 2 dormers. Interior - panelling and staircase. RCHM. NMR.

Other information: Some history books name it with the Welsh speling “Llan Helen”

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2 Upper Butts “The Cedars”, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: C18. Stucco. L plan, 2 storeys and attic, 3 double-hung sashes with sills. Door surround of architrave, narrow side panels, carved consoles, cornice hood. Modillion eaves cornice, modern red pantiles, 2 dormers. NMR.

Other information: 18c. Note pantiles now replaced by modern plain clay tiles in style of original.

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Park View, Church Walk, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction c.1900 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Description: The roof has some features similar to the Gables (FW Lacey’s house), but is later. Also the small round windows are similar to the Nowell Parr houses in Somerset Rd. Not shown on 1894 map, but is shown on 1935 map.

Other information:

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Footprints, Church Walk, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction c.1900 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Description: Not shown on 1894 map, but is shown on 1935 map.

Other information: Home of the late Joyce Clissold, artist

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17 Somerset Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century or Date/Period earlier

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listing

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Mid C18, top floor and roof added late C19. Red brick. Three storeys, six windows, 1:3:1:1, slight set forward in centre and on right hand side C19 sashes in flush frames with rubbled heads to ground and first floors. Round headed doorway in centre bay of five, panelled door, fanlight, impost blocks. Late C19 hood. Slate roof. Forms a visuals top when viewed from the Butts.

Other information:

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Row of Victorian Terraced Houses, Somerset Rd, Brentford Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th Date/Period century

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area Value?

Description: Row of 3 storey houses either side of number 17. High quality Victorian terrace.

Other information:

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11a (Ivy Cottage) & 11b (Jasmine Cottage), Somerset Rd, Brentford Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 1908 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area Value?

Description: Two semi-detached houses designed by local architect/surveyor Nowell Parr. Arched doorways and small round window detail.

.

Other information: They replaced older cottages attached to the flank wall of The Cedars.

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Old Electric Cinema, 17 Market Place, Brentford

Original Use Cinema

Current Use Workshop/Shop

Construction Early 20th Date/Period century?

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area Value?

Description: Old Electric cinema, used to screen silent movies c1910-1914. Between the wars was converted into a factory “E A & W H Browne Western Pattern Works”. Used in 1939 to make parts/patterns for Hurricanes and Spitfires. More recently used as a workshop with a charity shop at the front. (Broadvale). Planning application in 2013 to turn the premises into an antique shop.

Other information:

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19 Market Place, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: Detached house. Mid C18 withCl9 and later alterations. Multi-coloured stock brick. Slate mansard roof with dormers and parapeted end gables with brick chimney stacks. 2 storeys, attic and basement. 3 windows, central window blind. Central entrance with early C19 distyle porch, stuccoed doorway surround and 4-panelled door. Flat arches to early C20 double hung sashes with glazing bars to top sash and vertically divided bottom sash. Right hand return has lst floor segmental arched flush framed sash.

Other information: Ground Floor was used as an antiques shop during the early 1980s.

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26a Market Place “Darholm”, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed confusingly as “26a The Butts”

Group Value? Yes Conservation Butts Conservation Area Area?

Description: EH Listing Description: 26A The Butts. 26a Market Place, Brentford. House, c1820. Yellow stock brick, gauged brick window arches, stone sills, cast iron balconies with Gothick ornament to rear, slate hipped roof. Three storeys and a basement. Spearheaded railings over dwarf wall to the street. Entrance via south side of house, below arched window to first floor with red gauged brick arch hood. Interior features include reeded door surrounds to the ground floor east room; staircase with urn and column balusters and columnar newels; moulded stone fireplace surround with embossed ornament and in situ cupboards to the first floor east room; panelled partitions to second floor rooms. Six over six sash windows to upper floors; plate glass windows to ground floor being replaced at time of inspection. The house is not shown on a map of 1794 but pre-dates the 1837 tithe apportionment map.

Other information: Formerly no 28.

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The Weir, Market Place, Brentford (Originally The White Horse)

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information:

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Magistrates Court, Market Place, Brentford

Original Use Town Hall/ Magistrates Court

Current Use Vacant

Construction 1850 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Description: This was the site of the market in the town for at least 300 years. About 1850 the old Market House on this site was demolished and a Town Hall built as a speculative development by the Brentford Town Hall and Market House Company. It was never used as a town hall and by 1852 it housed the County and Magistrates Courts and the Board of Guardians met there. There was also a library and public meetings were held. The results of the Middlesex elections were announced from a balcony at the front. In 1891 it was bought by Middlesex CC for a full time court and additions were made to the building. It closed in 1929 for alterations when the white stone front section was added. It re- opened in 1931. The clock was made by Jullion of Brentford in the 18th century and was originally on the old Market House. It was moved onto the front section of the building at the time of the 1930s addition. It was automated in 1982 with a donation from the Brentford Chamber of Commerce. It closed as a court in 2012 and has been sold. English Heritage turned it down for listing 2012. It’s likely to be developed as a restaurant and apartments.

Other information:

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Area ‘C’: St Faith’s Area and Windmill Rd down to Half Acre

Via Hamilton Rd, Clifden Rd & St Paul’s Rd

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St Faith’s Church, Windmill Rd, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1906-7 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Churches Section.

Other information: .

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Group of Victorian villas, Windmill Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th century Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Several large semi and detached houses on east side of Windmill Road north of the Great West Road.

Other information: .

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The Globe Pub, Windmill Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction C1888 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information: First appears in 1888 directory. Fuller Smith & Turner acquired it in 1908. Large globe on the roof above the corner door.

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The Lord Nelson, Enfield Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Reconstructed Date/Period in 1927

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information: .

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Row of Victorian Shops (now cottages), Windmill Rd, Brentford

Original Use Shops

Current Use Residential

Construction 19th century? Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Row of Victorian shops that are now cottages. They seem to be three stories high at the back as it seems the road level was raised to build the railway bridge in the 1840s. Other cottages, built around the same time, continue along Orchard Rd opposite.

Other information: .

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Station House, Brentford Railway Station

Original Use Railway Station House

Current Use Railway Station

Construction 1840 or Date/Period earlier?

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description:

Other information: .

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13-17 Windmill Road, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Edwardian Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Group of three, 3-4 storey houses that are on the 1894 OS map. Marked “Blenheim Villa” and Hambledon House”.

Other information: .

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“Site of Sarah Trimmer’s House”, 1- 12, Windmill Road, Brentford Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Early 19c Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Group of six early 19c houses, Tuscan style, white render. Built on the site of Sarah Trimmer’s house (wife of a local businessman and a leading educationalist of her time. died 1810). At one time there was a name plaque showing Trimmer Villas and there is a section of old wall between two of the houses.

Other information:

APPENDIX – CLIFDEN RD WALL:

As well as the old wall on site of Sarah Trimmer’s House, there is also this wall behind the Methodist Church on Clifden Rd, running along the backs of the gardens on the south side of

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Hamilton Road and the north of Clifden Road. There may also be some more visible behind the houses on Brook Road South where there's a car park too.

Likely to have been the garden wall of Clifden House, built for Viscount Clifden in the late 18th century. The garden ran the length of what is now Clifden Road and the Brook looks as though it was blocked at both ends to make a garden feature, (See tithe map of 1839, following the brook).

The Library was built in the garden early in the 20th century and Clifden House demolished in the 1950s.

1865 OS map (above) shows the long wall dividing Clifden House garden from a market garden that ran the length of what is now Hamilton Road with 1 large house facing Windmill Raod with its garden up to the railway.

Worth recording.

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Hamilton Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Victorian and Date/Period Edwardian

Already Listed? No

Number 17

Edwardian villa “Stapleton Lodge” and terrace

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Groups of attractive villas and houses. Some have cast iron posts on the corners of the windows like some in Whitestile Road and O’Riordan’s Tavern. No 17 is four stories with impressive steps up to the front door with window above. In 1900 it was occupied by Mrs Dorey and owned by Dorey & Co who were a local building company through the late 19c early 20c. Mr Dorey was a local councillor and built a number of the local civic buildings. It’s likely that he built this house for his own family.

Other information: .

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Brentford Swimming Baths, Clifden Rd, Brentford

Original Use Swimming Baths

Current Use Part residential, part vacant needing extensive work.

Construction 1895 Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed. ON ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK” REGISTER

Interior photographs with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Public baths. 1895-6 by T Nowell Parr (District Surveyor) for Brentford Urban District Council, builder J Barnes; later additions and alterations. Entrance elevation and right return block of red brick in Flemish bond with ashlar dressings; otherwise stock brick in Flemish bond with red brick dressings. Welsh slate roofs. Red brick chimneys. Plinth with roll- moulded coping. Entrance elevation: one storey; 4 bays, progressively stepped forward (from left) and having door, window, door, window, the entrance bays narrower. The doors are in internal porches which have ashlar architraves with imposts and keyed archivolts with ashlar panels over (now cemented) and, inside, half-glazed panelled double doors with overlights which have wooden mullions and transoms and leaded, coloured, glazing. The windows are of 3 lights, the central lights taller and with keyed round arches, and have glazing bars; coloured, leaded, glass to overlights of side-lights; corniced ashlar architraves with capitalled pilasters and central pediments inscribed 'PUBLIC' 'BATHS'. Below each window the pilasters descend to plinth and flank central foundation and opening date- stones. Gabled roofs run back behind window bays and have ridge louvres broken by chimneys. Set back at centre is tall pediment of pool roof which has lunette with glazing bars. Set back on left is gabled boiler house with small-pane oculus, stepped eaves, glazed ridge louvre, and to rear left the tapering square chimney which has an arched recess to each side. Right return: 2-storey, 4-bay block, believed to be former council committee rooms, projects on right. Its left bay has wide, raised, elliptical archway to internal porch, with later door. Bay 3 projects slightly and has half-glazed door and fanlight in keyed archivolt. 2-light small-pane windows in pilastered architraves with cornices to ground floor. On first floor, windows alternately set below segmental pediments and finialled gables. Interior: original doors with leaded coloured glass; womens slipper baths, to front right, retain 2 baths; superintendant's office, committee room (to centre front) has original fireplace with decorative tile surround; plainer fireplace, cupboards and drawers to ticket office behind. Pool extended at deep end, with original rear wall broken through; original wooden

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gallery to each side; braced steel trusses. Mens slipper baths converted to gymnasium. Former laundry to rear left. Former council office block has decorative cornices and plaster ceilings. EH “At Risk” Description: Public baths and swimming pool 1895-96. Closed 1990. Sold by London Borough of Hounslow in November 1998. Interiors in reasonable condition. Planning permission and listed building consent were granted on appeal in July 2011 for change of use to live-work units.

Other information: Designed by Nowell Parr and contract with J Barnes of Brentford for building (£4,850). Foundation stone laid 1895 by James Bigwood the local MP. Swimming bath 92’x 42’ – water area 75’x 27’ – white glazed brick – 6’6’’ at the deep end and 3’3’’ at the shallow end. 24 first class dressing boxes on one side and 32 second class along the other side of the bath with a gallery along both sides. The water was not heated in the 1970s. Arrangements originally made for slipper baths (first and second class), a shower bath, boiler house, washing house, laundry and drying room. It would seem to have been used as a dance hall – presumably boarded over – in the 1920s and later. Home of Brentford Swimming Club. Closed 1990. Written history in Chiswick Library Local Studies.

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Methodist Church, Clifden Rd, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1963 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: See Churches Section.

Other information:

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Brentford Library, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Library

Current Use Library

Construction 1903 Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Library. 1903 by T H Nowell Parr, builder Joseph Dorey and Co; for Brentford District Council; benefactor Andrew Carnegie. Yellow stock brick in English bond with terracotta dressings; Welsh slate roof with tile ridges. 2 storey central block of 3 bays flanked by single-storey wings. Plinth; sill band; frieze and dentilled cornice to each floor; rusticated quoins to 1st floor; hipped roofs with decorative, finialled, cupolas; tall corniced stacks. Windows have architraves; wooden or terracotta mullions and transoms; and small-pane sashes and overlights, some upper lights with round-arched glazing bars. Entrance elevation: central block: projecting central bay has wide segmental-arched entrance with 4-panel door and overlight flanked by glazed grey Ionic columns on tall plinths supporting segmental pediment with date and benefactor's name and district's coat of arms above; 3-light transomed window above, the central lower light segmental-headed. Flanking windows on ground floor have foundation stones set below, and on 1st floor have corbelled architraves with friezes and dentilled cornices. Left wing has two 2-light windows; cornice sweeps up at left corner to ball finial. Right wing has canted bay window of 1, 2, 1 windows below parapet; 1-light flanking windows; ridge lantern. Rear: central block has continuous 1st floor windows separated by pilaster buttresses rising from below ground floor cornice; door and 3 windows to left wing; transomed 3-light window and keyed oculus to right wing; tower with roof as cupolas on right. Left return: wing, on right, has canted bay window as before, the parapet containing small 2-light window with segmental pediment; flanking 1-light windows, and door on left in corniced architrave. Inferior: entrance hall has tessellated floor with coat of arms; teak staircase with coffered soffit, moulded balusters and newels, and finials; on stair landing, marble Boer War memorial framed by Ionic columns supporting cornice and pediment with coat of arms. Main library room has pilasters supporting corniced cross-members; room above (formerly museum and lecture room) has corbelled trusses and boarded ceiling; right wing (formerly newspaper reading room) has braced king-post trusses and bronze portrait of Carnegie; left wing (formerly reference library) has arch-braced, collared, principal rafter roof.

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Other information: Designed by the local surveyor – Nowell Parr and built by local company (Joseph Dorey & Co) in the garden of Clifden House an 18th century house used as Council offices until demolished in the 1950s and where the original library had been established. Building financed by Andrew Carnegie who provided £5,000 if the Council would provide the land and staff. Carnegie came to Brentford to perform the opening ceremony in 1904. The foundation stone had been laid by the Countess of Jersey in 1903. There’s a full report of these events in The History and Antiquities of Brentford by Fred Turner (1922). Remembrance Garden at the library contains cenotaph and other War memorials. War Memorial Locally Listed as “Brentford War Memorial, High Street”, needs to be amended as it was moved to the grounds of Brentford Library in 2008.

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Inverness Lodge, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Social Club

Construction Early 19th Date/Period Century

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Early 19c. Occupied by a Henry Kendall in 1853 although the building seems to be older than that. 1854 was a private nursing home for ‘mentally defective patients’ run by Dr Gardiner Hill. Lady Rosina Bulwer Lytton, wife of Edward Bulwer Lytton 1st Lord Lytton the Colonial Secretary was sent there for 3 weeks that year. 1877 home of Stephen Woodbridge – solicitor and secretary to the Local Board. 1930 – Women’s branch of the National Unionist Association. At the time of writing (2013) a developer has been trying to obtain planning permission to convert the building into flats.

Other information:

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Brentford Free Church, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1783 Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed as “Congregational Church”

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: See Churches Section

Other information:

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East side of Somerset Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Early 20th Date/Period Century

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Groups of early 20c houses. Some on North side with interesting “teddy bear ears” porch detail. The flats on the far north east corner were built 1939 and replaced houses like those towards the Butts.

Other information: .

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33-37 Half Acre, Brentford

Original Use Residential & School

Current Use Residential & Nursery

Construction 18th & 19th Date/Period Century

Photograph above © Janet McNamara 2013 Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Group of early Victorian buildings and one 18th century. See Schools section for info on the old school built in 1893 and now used as a nursery.

Other information:

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St Paul’s Church, St Paul’s Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction Original building Date/Period designed by F&H Francis dates from 1867. Spire is 1869. Extended by Michael Blee,1992..

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: See Churches Section

Other information: .

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St Paul’s School, St Paul’s Road, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use School

Construction 1873 Date/Period

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: See Schools Section.

Other information: .

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St Paul’s Recreation Ground, Brentford

Original Use Park

Current Use Park

Construction 1883 Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Central park in Brentford. Land was secured for St Paul’s Recreation ground in 1883. It was purchased by voluntary contributions and a memorial erected to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee celebrating her 50 years on the throne.

Other information:

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8.0 Area ‘D’: Griffin Park Area

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The Griffin Pub, Brook Rd South, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1883 Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information: .

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The New Inn, New Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1853 or Date/Period earlier

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See pubs section

Other information: .

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The Princess Royal, Ealing Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Originally Date/Period built 1840. Rebuilt 1921 Designed by Nowell Parr

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Pubs section.

Other information: .

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Royal Oak, 38 New Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1894 Date/Period Possibly rebuilt 1920s?

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Pubs section.

Other information: .

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Houses within Brook Lodge & Layton Estate, Brook Rd North, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction Early 19th Date/Period century

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “Brook Lodge”

Group Yes Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description:

Other information: .

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Old York Mineral Water Factory, Brook Rd North, Brentford

Original Use Factory

Current Use Part Residential, Part Works

Construction 19th century Date/Period

Already No Listed?

View from Brook Rd Nth

View from York Rd

Group Yes Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Group of 19th century buildings.

Other information: The York Mineral Water Company Limited, of York Road, Brentford, London, was incorporated in February 1898. It was taken over by Barclay Perkins in October 1954. Operations were taken over by Camwal Limited in May 1955. The company was in voluntary liquidation in 1964.

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New England Pub (previously the Duke of York), Corner of Brook Lane Nth / Great West Road /York Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Vacant

Construction 1898 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Other information: .SEPT 2013 – UNDER THREAT FROM DEMOLITION

130 Brentford Heritage List

Jubilee Methodist Church, New Rd, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Offices

Construction 1897 Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: See Churches Section.

Other information: .

131 Brentford Heritage List

New Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century & th Date/Period early 19 century

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Group of pretty two-storey 18th century and early 19th century cottages in generally good order.

Other information: .

132 Brentford Heritage List

Ealing Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential & possibly originally some pubs/shops

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Group of c18th century houses and cottages. Pictures show numbers 63-65, 83-85, and 143-145 as examples.

Other information: .

133 Brentford Heritage List

Former Bricklayers Arms, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Residential, divided into flats

Construction 1853 Date/Period

Already Listed? Locally Listed

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Pub made famous as The Flying Swan in Robert Rankin’s novels. Now divided into houses. See Pubs Section.

Other information: .

134 Brentford Heritage List

Corner of Ealing Rd & Albany Rd, Brentford

Original Use Shop

Current Use Shop below and residential above

Construction Edwardian Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Interesting street corner with conical “turret” roof.

Other information: .

135 Brentford Heritage List

The Royal Horse Guardsman, Ealing Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888 Date/Period although remodelled at a later date

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: In a directory from 1888 and originally a dominant corner building with small cottages along Albany and Ealing Roads on either side. The roof line of the neighbouring cottage can be seen on the end wall in Ealing Road. Attractive glass and mosaic tiled doorway. 2012 seems to have reverted to its original name of the Horseguardsman.

Other information: .

136 Brentford Heritage List

Pottery Arms, 25 Clayponds Lane, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888, Date/Period rebuilt 1921/2 Designed by Nowell Parr

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Pubs Section

Other information: .

137 Brentford Heritage List

St Georges School, Green Dragon Lane, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Community Centre

Construction 1893 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: See Schools Section

Other information:

138 Brentford Heritage List

39-40 Albany Rd, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction c19th century Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? Yes Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: Numbers 39 to 45 are built in imitation stone that is residue from the Gas Works.

Other information: .

139 Brentford Heritage List

Albany Arms, Albany Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1900 Date/Period Possible early Nowell Parr?

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Built by the Royal Brewery, Brentford in 1900. Stained glass windows inside.

Other information: .

140 Brentford Heritage List

Water Pipe and Manhole Cover, Albany Rd, Brentford

Original Use Water Pipe

Current Use Redundant

Construction c19th century Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Photograph by Janet McNamara

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Two interesting features along Albany Road.

1: Pipe situated near the chip shop. No one seems positive what it is but we think it is likely to have been a water pipe - perhaps turned on from the metal bit in the pavement and there may have been a canvas pipe from the end to fill a water cart from the days when the roads would have been watered to keep the dust down.

2: Manhole Cover, situated outside the gate of St Paul’s Rec. Around 18inche/46cm diameter and must have been fitted some time between 1894 and the 1920s when the Urban District Council was in existance.

Other information:

141 Brentford Heritage List

Another feature is found in the parallel street, outside 10 Grosvenor Road. 14inches/35cm diameter. Likely to have been fitted between 1874 and 1894 when Brentford Local Board was in existence.

142 Brentford Heritage List

Area ‘E’: Boston Manor

143 Brentford Heritage List

Boston Manor House, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Open to the public

Construction 1622/23 Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade I Statutory Listed ON ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK LIST”

Interior photographs with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Value? Yes Conservation Grand Union Canal & Boston Area? Manor Conservation Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description of Boston Manor House: 1622-3. C18 North wing. 3-storeys and attics. Red brick. 6 windows in stone architraves. Stone cornice between 2nd and 3rd storeys. Stone porch with balustrade like that at Lilford Hall. Northants (1635). Interior has splendid early C17 ceilings, fine C18 wallpaper on upper staircase. Fine carved main staircase. Drawing room ceiling divided by moulded ribs into oblong and square panels, broken into semi-circular and segmental cuspings, connected by short corss- ribs. Within some of the panels are strap-work cartouches containing emblamatic figures; including the 4 elements designed by the C17 Dutch artist Mare Gheercerts, and engraved by Galle. The house was damaged in the war and was extensively restored prior to its reopening in 1963. Is now occupied by National Institute for Housecraft Limited. See 'Country Life' March 18 1965. AM. Also EH Listed: Garden wall, 2 sets of iron gates and gateposts to Boston Manor House. Gateway about 100 yds South of Boston Manor House. EH “At Risk” Description: Built 1623 for Lady Mary Reade. Stabilising action to south and west elevations undertaken. English Heritage grant awarded towards options appraisal for future uses. Repairs to south west corner substantially completed. Reinstatement of finishes awaited. Options appraisal almost ready for public consultation.

144 Brentford Heritage List

Other information: Original part of the house built 1622/23 for Lady Mary Reade. Extended 1670 by James Clitherow whose descendents extended and made alterations until 1922/3 when it was sold to Brentford Local Board (later Borough of B&C – now London Borough of Hounslow) with the area of the park. 1941-1961 Primary School on the ground floor. 1962 M4 Flyover built straight through the park. 1963 Used by the Institution of Houseworkers Ltd. Their lease taken over by The Over Forties Housing Association later Housing for Women. Refurbishment of dining room and library and guide book published 1998. Lease on flats in the house not renewed. The library was closed in 2002 when a crack was found in the rear wall of the 1623 house and scaffolding erected. The rear of the house was boarded up from 2006 and the House closed for 2 years for repairs to the wall. The State Rooms reopened to the public 2012. EH Listing needs updating

145 Brentford Heritage List

Boston Manor Stables, Brentford

Original Use Stables/Coach House

Current Use Private residential

Construction C1700 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal & Boston Manor Conservation Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Coach stable block to right of house - red brick. Included for group value.

Other information: Converted for accommodation in 1993. During the conversion work it was thought that the original building dated back to c1700. Interesting bell tower.

146 Brentford Heritage List

Boston Manor Tube Station, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Tube Station

Current Use Tube Station

Construction 1934 with Date/Period earlier fabric from 1883.

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: EH Listing description: Piccadilly Line Underground station. 1933-34 by Charles Holden, with earlier fabric at platform level dating from 1883. Brown brick facing, reinforced concrete structure. Glazed ceramic tiles with enamelled London Underground logo on tower; vertical strip of glass bricks forming lighting feature along upper stages of tower. EXTERIOR: Single storey structure on girders over railway bridge: booking hall to right, lit with clerestory; projecting shop unit to left with curved picture window. Flat roofs of concrete now with safety rails to edge (added recently).

Other information: Opened 1883 as part of the District Railway extension to Hounslow Barracks. Some of the original fabric on the platform level. Piccadilly line from March 1934. Boston Manor Station featured on the first class stamp issued in January 2013 to commemorate 150 years of London Underground.

147 Brentford Heritage List

67, Boston Manor Road “Prospect House”, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Offices

Construction C18th century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes. (Nos 69, 71, Conservation No 73 and 75 form a Area? group).

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: C18. Brown brick house. 3-storeys, 5 double-hung sashes with red brick rubbed flat arches, ground floor and and 2nd floor windows in architraves, 1st floor windows in reveals. Door surround, architrave, brackets, dentil cornice, open pediment hood. Raised brick key above 1st floor window. Parapet. NMR.

Other information: Monkey puzzle tree next to it. Practically under the M4 Flyover. Now used as offices.

148 Brentford Heritage List

69 & 71 Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Offices

Construction C18th Date/Period century

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes. (Nos Conservation Area? No 69, 71, 73 and 75 form a group).

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: C18 house divided into 2 dwellings. Brown brick with red dressings. 2- storeys and attic, 4 double-hung sashes in plain surrounds, cambered relieving arches to ground floor windows. Well designed porch has been brought from elsewhere. Roman Doric fluted columns and pilasters, entablature with triglyphs and guttae, modillion and ovolo cornice. Machine tile roof with modillion eaves cornice and 2 dormers. Interior has been much altered and tenant claims fabric has been damaged by proximity to road. NMR.

Other information: 18c house now used as offices. In addition to EH description there is a basement level.

149 Brentford Heritage List

73 & 75 Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Offices

Construction C18th Date/Period century

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes. (Nos Conservation Area? No 69, 71, 73 and 75 form a group).

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Pair of C18 houses. Brown brick, red dressings. 3-storeys, 6 double-hung sashes with cambered relieving arches. 1st floor French windows and early C19 hooded balconies. No 73 - Reeded doorcase with rectangular fan, wood porch. No 75 - door bond on brackets, rectangular fan. Left hand modern ground floor bay. Parapet. NMR. Nos 69, 71, 73 and 75 form a group.

Other information: Now used as offices. In addition to EH description there is a basement level.

150 Brentford Heritage List

St John’s Church, Boston Park Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1866 Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: See Churches section.

Other information:

151 Brentford Heritage List

30 Boston Park Road, Brentford

Original Use House

Current Use Converted into flats

Construction 19th Century Date/Period

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: 19th Century detached house, now divided into flats. Maybe old vicarage of St Johns?

Other information:

152 Brentford Heritage List

The Kings Arms, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1840 with Date/Period 1930s additions

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section

Other information: .

153 Brentford Heritage List

Gallows Bridge, Grand Union Canal, Brentford

Original Use Bridge

Current Use Bridge

Construction 1820 Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Grand Union Canal & Boston Area? Manor Conservation Area

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Probably by Thomas Telford. Single span iron footbridge with yellow brick abutments. Dated 1820 and cast at Horseley Iron Works near Birmingham

Other information: Carries the Grand Union Canal towpath from the west to the eastern bank at the northern end of the Boston Manor Estate. The bridge, with Grand Union Canal insignia, has a rough surface to enable canal horses to grip it. It may have taken its name from a man found hanged in Boston Manor woods, c. 17th century.

154 Brentford Heritage List

Area ‘F’: Great West Rd

155 Brentford Heritage List

Carville Hall, Carville Hall Park, Brentford

Original Use Residential

Current Use Converted in to flats

Construction 1777 or Date/Period earlier. Extended & refronted in 19th century?

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Early Victorian House originally known as Clayponds. Bought by Middlesex CC 1918 for building the Great West Road. The park around was bought by the Brentford UDC after the First World War as a War Memorial for the local men who had fought and to provide an open space for public use in an area of close built houses and industry. M4 divides the park.

Carville Hall is on the 1777 Bassett Survey of Ealing and belonged then to David Roberts (c1733- 97) the wealthy distiller and brewer. Originally, Clayponds literally had clay pits which had become lakes in its garden. It is aligned in the same position on the map and has been extended and refronted. The railway took some of the grounds to the south and the A4 took some to the north. Sales particulars with a detailed plan of about 1880 survive in LSLibrary.

Other information: Sept 2013 – In state of neglect. Currently there seem to be building works taking place on the house.

156 Brentford Heritage List

Smithkline Beecham House (also known as Wallis House) Including Midland Bank, Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Being converted to residential

Construction 1936-42 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Smithkline Beecham House (also known as Wallis House) Including Midland Bank Eh Listing Description: Factory; now company headquarters and offices, and bank. East wing 1936 by G A Warren; otherwise 1937-42 by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners; for Simmonds Aerocessories. 1947 converted into offices for British Overseas Aircraft Corporation; further alterations 1955-6 and 1960 by R Gallanaugh for Beechams and subsequently. Pale brick in Flemish bond with concrete and ashlar plinth; sill and lintel bands; window jambs; architraves; fins to tower and flanking blocks; upper storey of tower; and parapets. Flat concrete roofs. Central 11-storey tower with lower 3-storey flanking blocks set slightly forward and overlapping front corners of tower. Long side wings of 2 storeys and basement which terminate in circular entrance towers (not much taller than wings) and then return rearwards. Entrance elevation; entrance across full-width of tower has late C20 glazinq,fascia, balconied windows over and deep band linking the 2 flanking blocks. Tower has 3-light window with original metal glazing bars, rising to 8th floor; 9th floor fronted by figure of a airman with eagle on shoulder, on stand; indented parapet; returns of tower have 9-light similar windows with 9 windows to top floor, some of which have replacement glazing; rear has plainer 3-light window with flanking narrow windows on each floor; chimney. Blocks flanking tower each have a full-height 5-light window to front, 5 plainer windows to rear and 9 to returns retaining original glazing bars except to lower floors at rear. Side wings on each floor have near- continuous windows separated by wide jambs, only the basement windows retaining original glazing bars; curved corners at junctions with end entrance towers. These each have steps up to a double door with bowed columns and hood; window above; and are flanked by fins and tall narrow windows. Each wing return has a plainer entrance at east end. Later wing extensions and additions to rear of wings and to tower. Interior: tower retains original stair on right hand side with marbled lobby and keyed round archway on 2nd floor, marbled lift lobby to lst floor on left side and in reception area; otherwise interior is considerably altered. Railings In Front Of Smithkline Beecham House Terminating In Line With Entrance At Right (West) End Of Right (West) Wing EH Listing Description: Railings. c.1937 for Simmons Aerocessories (as Smithkline Beecham House q.v.). Concrete plinth, metal railings. Plain bars. Short sections of railing divided by panels with curved and scrolled interlaced rods which continue undulatingly across railings; above each panel is winged monogram, "SA", with finalled hood. Included for group value. 157 Brentford Heritage List

Other information: The surviving building was the offices of Beechams, with the works behind. Of note is a fabulous airman sculpture on the façade – the sculptor is Donald Gilbert and title is Inspiration to Flight.

Sept 2013 - At present being converted by Barratt Property Developers

158 Brentford Heritage List

Lucozade Sign, Great West Road, Brentford

Original Use Advertising structure

Current Use Advertising structure / Offices

Construction 2010 replica of Date/Period 1950s original

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area?

Brief Description: Local well-loved landmark, visible from M4 flyover. Sign says: “Lucozade Replaces Lost Energy”. It originally read: “Lucozade Aids Recovery” but this was changed in the 1980s due to AIDS awareness. Many people not from Brentford know it as the sign which welcomes them to London on the M4. A rare example of Modernist Art or “kinetic sculpture” in advertising, which lights up to make the Lucozade appear to pour from the bottle to the glass. It was originally installed in 1954, on the side of what was then known as the “Lucozade Annex”, demolished in 2004. The original sign is now in Gunnersbury Museum. A digital replica was reinstalled in 2010, on the side of York Parade, 200metres from its original site.

Other information: Sept 2013 – GSK has just sold Lucozade to Japanese company Suntory, so we await news of whether Suntory will maintain the site through JC Decaux.

159 Brentford Heritage List

991 Great West Road (Ex Curry’s Warehouse, now JC Decaux), Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Offices for JC Decaux

Construction 1935-6 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Warehouse, 1935-6 by F E Simpkins for Curry's Ltd as the distributive centre for their chain of shops. Reinforced concrete with some steel frame, especially at rear. Flat roof to long office block at front, 5-bay warehouse to rear has jagged industrial profile with northern rooflights over single storey. The front range is of two, rising to three central storeys, and with an impressive staircase tower as its centrepiece, in a symmetrical 3,6,1,6,3 composition. All windows metal, with strong horizontals, mostly of 4-lights in tripartite fashion but with idiosyncratic arched windows at end. Those to the side of the central tower are curved in the famous moderne manner. The building is entered under the staircase tower on the first floor via a flight of concrete steps that are part of the composition and have concrete balustrades with pylons complete with set-back tops. Double doors have stepped flat concrete surround and flat canopy over. The central tower rises between corner pilasters, with a set back and toothed top and remains of clock. Under it the tripartite staircase window has 19 horizontal lights. Included as a remarkably complete survival in the style the Great West Road made famous, which has particular group value with its listed neighbours, the former Pyrene and Coty factories.

Other information: .

160 Brentford Heritage List

Firestone Gates, Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Gates (factory now demolished)

Construction 1928 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Central gates, gate piers and railngs to the former Firestone Factory. 1928 by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners. Reinforced concrete, cast iron railings and lanterns. The former central pedestrian entrance to the Firestone Factory, comprising a pair of outer piers, two runs of original railings; a pair of gate piers with double gates; two plinths supporting lanterns either side of a flight of shallow steps; and a pair of lower piers at the top of the stairs. The piers are designed in a highly characteristic Jazz Modern idiom: they are pylon-shaped, with staggered keystone motifs to the tops and fluting to the upper friezes. The lantern plinths have similar profiles, but also include central sections with scrolled ornament. The railings are Egyptian in style, with square rails with blunt terminals. The gates are similar in style, with central circular bosses with shields containing the letter 'F', supported on X-motifs. The lanterns behind have square bases, with winged 'F's to each face, set between wings; the tapering standards are circular in section, and reeded; the distinctive lanterns on top have chevron ornament to each face, and gilt ribs to each angle. The other stretches of railings and piers have been compromised by the loss of the original railings and are not included within this list description. HISTORY: this was the central pedestrian entrance to the now-demolished Firestone Factory, designed by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners in 1928 and celebrated as one of the finest interwar factories; it was demolished in 1980 on the eve of being decreed a listed building. The factory embodied the industrial expansion of interwar London; the rise of arterial roads with factories built on them; the development of the automotive industry, following the growth of road transport; and the strongly Modernistic architectural flavour that these factories were given. Wallis, Gilbert were the leading architects of such Jazz Age buildings.

Other information: Firestone factory demolished in 1980, over an August Bank holiday weekend, just days before a Building Preservation Order was going to be enacted. This spurred the Historic Buildings Committee of the DofE to recommend 150 inter-war buildings for listing, within a year.

161 Brentford Heritage List

Westlink House (also known as the Pyrene Building), Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Offices for Carillion

Construction 1928 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: By Wallis, Gilbert and Partners. 1928, but altered. Modernistic. Symmetrical and rectilinear. Rendered. Sited on raised bank. Mainly two storeys. Chief feature is central Tower with stepped haunches and abstract moulded features at top. It has recessed panel in face enclosing 3 tiers of 3 narrow windows above entrance framed by geometric decoration (now coverted to window), with prominent front steps dividing into sideways flights and having square buttressing. Long wings of horizontal lines with gridwork of 12 large windows (originally small- framed but altered to large panes); the terminal windows being narrow ones in slightly advanced sections. Parapet with ribbed panels and raised section at corners. Rear parts of building not of special interest. Later 6-window section abutting to left not included.

Other information: .

162 Brentford Heritage List

Part Of Former Coty Factory Premises Situated About 50 Metres South East Of The Junction With Harlequin Avenue, Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Private Clinic

Construction 1933 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing description: 1933 by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners. Modernistic. Symmetrical. Rendered on a steel frame. 2 storeys on raised bank. Entrance and vertical window above it are recessed below the continuous shaped parapet, with triple horizontal clasping motifs in the angles beneath the parapet. Each side are long, horizontal, small-pane metal windows, interrupted only by slight pillars, and wrapped round the corners to continue along shorter return fronts. (Parts of the building to the rear of these are not of special interest). Tall continuous parapet has raised features at corners and quasi-pediment over name-panel in centre.

Other information: .

163 Brentford Heritage List

The National Westminster Bank, Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Bank

Current Use Bank

Construction 1935 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: Bank. 1935 by WFC Holden as the branch of the National Provincial Bank. Brown brick with Portland stone dressings. Flat roof. Single storey. Double-height banking office, bow-fronted to Great West Road, flanked by lower wings, that to left with bow- fronted public entrance on the return. Expressionist style. Bowed facade to road has 3 tall ladder windows with margin glazing separated by columns with brick ribs which continue as moulded features in the stone-coped parapet. Groups of similar full-height ribs form straight angles with blind lower wings, each of which has a rainwater head and drainpipe linking the design to a low stone- coped continuous plinth. On return, bowed entrance with blind wings has central recessed doorway (later C20 doors), flanked by recessed margin glazed ladder windows; approached by bowed and shaped steps. Stone coped parapet and plinth. Blind return of double-height office, with ribbed angles, rises behind. Interior fitted out to late C20 requirements but retains timber panelling to walls and piers. The bank was designed to form a group with Sir Bannister Fletcher's Gillette Factory.

Other information: .

164 Brentford Heritage List

The Gillette Factory, Great West Road, Brentford Original Use Factory

Current Use Under refurbishment

Construction 1937 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Premises Of Gillette Uk Ltd EH Listing Description: 1937. Bannister Fletcher, Architect. Two storeys and basement with very lofty central tower. Brick. Three-seven-three-seven-three bays. Ends project slightly and have both storeys of iron-framed windows in a recessed panel. Main windows also in two storeys with decorative metal aprons without brickwork. Plain parapet. Further storey set back behind parapet. Central part projects and has itself a projecting centre as base to tower. Central entrance approached by steps. Tower has plain shaft except for slight pilaster-strips and small slit windows. Open stage with enlarged classical window surround and balustrade on each face; surmounted by shaped top storey with clock face on each. Shorter return fronts similar to main front. Parts beyond these are not of special interest. Four Lamp Standards With Lanterns Outside The Main Entrance EH Listing Description: Ornate Victorian cast iron street lamp originally for gas, now converted, flanking the steps to the main entrance ot the Gillette Factory, a much later building, by Bannister Fletcher. Lamps supported on putti, on stone plinth. Telephone Kiosk Outside Gillette Building, Syon Rd EH Listing Description: Telephone kiosk. Type K6. Designed 1935 by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. Made by Carron Company . Cast iron. Square kiosk with domed roof. Unperforated crowns to top panels and margin glazing to windows and door.

165 Brentford Heritage List

Other information: Telephone kiosk is looking in a poor state at time of writing, 2013.

166 Brentford Heritage List

Area ‘G’: Brentford End

167 Brentford Heritage List

69 and attached garden wall to North and East, 69 London Rd, Isleworth

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th Date/Period Century

Already Grade II Listed? Statutory Listed

Group Yes Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: II House, now flats. Probably late C18 or early C19, extended after 1827, altered mid C19, converted to flats early C20. Part of the Syon Park estate. Plum brick, in Flemish bond except for south west elevation, which is in English bond. Northern, roadside elevation rendered and lined as ashlar, Hipped slate roof, with deep plain eaves, to main range, pitched slate roofs to right hand and rear wings. Comprises a main range of two storeys and basements, in four bays, with a lower two storey, two bay right hand wing set back. At the rear is a two storey wing at right angles to the road. Roadside elevation: flat-roofed, rendered porch, with plain parapet has pair of part glazed doors with moulded lower panels, reached by stone steps between flanking stone parapets. Four 3x 4 pane windows with slender moulded glazing bars. Those to left two bays are fixed, those to right horned sashes. Basement windows with slender moulded glazing bars, some with engraved panes. Vertically boarded door to area. Brick stack to left of centre. Right hand wing has similar horned sashes, two per storey. Central brick stack. Garden elevation: four tall ground floor 3 x 4 pane sashes with glazing bars, in deep moulded architraves, under shaped canopies. Four floor 3 x 4 pane sashes with glazing bars under scalloped canopies. Broad garden door has single horizontal moulded panel beneath glazed section formed by four rectangular panes over a horizontal tripartite panel. Trellis porch. Rear gabled wing has similar first floor window to main range, plain four x four pane ground floor window under flat brick arch. Irregular south west elevation has some replaced windows.

Interior: inner entrance has shallow cyma moulded architrave but no door. Elegant stair of slender iron balusters, two per tread, plain tread ends, moulded, ramped, mahogany rail. Part is boxed in. Stair continues to basement, with stone steps. Dado rail continues through hall and stair well. Arch

168 Brentford Heritage List

over replaced door to ground floor flat. Stone flag floor with black lozenge insets, said to continue throughout ground floor of main range. Ground floor and first floor flats of similar plan with some inserted partitions. First floor flat retains marble mantelpiece probably mid C19. Panelled doors largely replaced. Rear first floor flat retains plain mid C19 painted mantelpiece. Door to cellar similar to garden door. Plain, four panelled door in basement.

Garden walls: northeast boundary wall in plum brick in Flemish bond, with curved corner to road. Front, northern, roadside wall in stock brick with horizontal recessed panels between square piers with stone coping.

Building on the site since at least 1748 (Rocque, estate plan, 1748, and Sauthier estate map, 1786). 1827 plan clearly shows a building on the site of the rear wing with another building on the site. Tithe Map, based on 1st Edn O.S., 1870's, but dated 1901 shows full extent of current buildings. The third Duke who inherited in 1817 and died in 1847 spent lavishly on the estate. The building would fit into this period of expansion.

Other information:

169 Brentford Heritage List

Coach & Horses Public House, 183 London Rd, Isleworth Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 17th Date/Period Century

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Syon Park Conservation Area

Brief Description: See Pubs Section.

Reason for Nomination (if not already listed):

Other information:

170 Brentford Heritage List

Park Cottages, 191-199 London Rd, Isleworth

Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th Century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? Yes Conservation Syon Park Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: EH Listing Description: C18 row of cottages. Brown brick with red dressings. 2 storeys and attics. Each cottage has 2 double-hung sashes in plain surrounds with cambered relieving arches. 1 dummy window to Nos 191 and 195. Parapet. 1 dormer each, old tile roof. Modern doors.

Reason for Nomination (if not already listed):

Other information:

171 Brentford Heritage List

Syon Lodge & Gates to Syon Lodge, London Rd, Isleworth Original Use Residential

Current Use Residential

Construction 18th Century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II* Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Syon Park Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: EH Listing description: Late C18 house in grounds. Brown brick. 2 storeys and basement, 5 double-hung sashes. Door, window surrounds and plaques said by the owner to be from Foley House in Langtham Place. 11 stone steps and wrought iron railing up to semi-circular arched doorway with fine wood surround: Roman Doric pilasters and entablature with acanthus leaf frieze, modillion cornice and central carving in high relief of an eagle with spread wings; panels either side of door with consoles supporting archivolt and varved keystones; fanlight, 6 fielded panel door. Ground floor windows have wood surrounds with carved consoles supporting entablature; reeded frieze with carved ram's head at each end above console. 1st floor windows have wood architraves and carved keystones of ram's heads and swags. 2nd floor windows have architraves and flat arches. 2 circular carved plaques at 1st floor level, 4 oval carved plaques at 2nd floor level. Parapet with 4 stone vases. Fine wrought iron gates with brick piers surmounted by stone vases. 2 other sets of entrance piers with vases. Interior - ground and 1st floor rooms contain very fine imported panelling, mantelpieces etc of various periods, but the permance of these additions is uncertain as the owner specializes in the sale of "period rooms" and antique garden ornaments. The former stable block to the left has had Tudor archways and windows grafted on to a basically Georgian design as a result of the Owner's occupation. The house was lived in at one time by the novelist Manville Fenn.

Other information:

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Area ‘H’: Syon Park

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Syon House, Syon Park, Brentford, Middx TW8 8JF

Original Use Residential

Current Use Open to Public

Construction Originally Date/Period c15th century, remodelled 18th Century by Robert Adam

Already Grade I and Listed? II Statutory Listed, see below

Group Yes Conservation Area? Syon Park Conservation Value? Area

Description: (Grade I): Built on remains of a Brigittine Abbey nunnery (1430-70). Part of C15 undercroft remains. Protector Somerset reconstructed the house in 1547-52, substantially in its present shape. The house, 3-storeys with crenellated top and gable turrets, is built on a hollow square. East front ground floor loggia mid C17. Remodelled inside and out by Robert Adam 1767-5. In 1874 the Percy Lion, transferred from Old Northumberland House at Charing Cross was erected on the river front. Slight war damage, 2nd floor of North West tower rebuilt; 2 statues on columns in anteroom destroyed. Vide RCHM; p86; Country Life V, p112, XLVI, pp728, 802, 838, 874. Associated with the house; Catherine Howard 1541-2, Protector Somerset, executed 1552; John, Duke of Northumberland and Lady Jane Grey, both executed 1553; the nuns recalled from the Netherlands 1557-8; Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, involved in the Gunpowder plot; the children of Charles I; Charles II in the plague of 1665 and the Dukes of Northumberland of 1766 who still hold it. Syon House and its Lodges form a grade I group. Syon House Conservatory (Grade I): Circa 1830 and before 1838. Designed by Charles Fowler, architect, and Richard Forrest, head gardener to the Duke of Northumberland. Central parabolic dome above roof. Quadrant wings. Pedimented front in centre and pedimented ends to wings. Bath stone facings, otherwise mostly glass. Cast iron frame with columns. Interior - altered, but retaining original details, including "Tower of the

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Winds" capitals. "The 1st metallic horticultural structure of any importance" (Edward Walford - '') Reference - "Gardener's Magazine" Vol 2, page 107; Vol 14, page 443, Vol 5 page 502. "Architectural Magazine" Vol 5, page 675. "History and Antiquities of Syon Monastery" (1840) page 122. A drawing of Syon Conservatory was exhibited by Fowler at the Royal Academy of 1849. Retaining walls of garden pool, and Statue in Syon Park (Grade II): Formal garden to South, with 12 carved Portland stone vases reputed to be by Grinling Gibbons and a circular pool with a bronze statue of Mercury. Garden pedestal and vase in Syon Park (Grade II): Elaborate late C18 carved stone design. Circular pedestal with 3 Ionic volutes, fluted vase with carved gathered drapery and 2 oval plaques. Small gateway to Syon Park to north east of the Park Entrance (Grade II): Rendered Gateway, now blocked, part of original design. Ornamental bridge in Syon Park over pond near entrance gates (Grade II): Wrought iron bridge over pond near Robert Adam entrance gates. Possibly designed by Charles Fowler about the time of his building the conservatory 1827-30. Flora's column, Syon Park (Grade I): Late C18 Roman Doric stone column on pedestal, about 60 ft high. Statue of Flora has been restored. The Dairy at Syon Park (Grade II): Ornamental Dairy at Syon Park. Post 1847, by Decimus Burton for the 6th Duke of Northumberland. Yellow brick with single-pitch slate roof. Rectangular plan. EXTERIOR: plain brick exterior, with large opening on south side, part obscured by later single storey lean-to, with wide gauged brick arch above. Physically contiguous on the east side with the Grade I listed Conservatory (q.v.). INTERIOR: entrance from east to upper level, separated from main chamber by balustrade of veined red marble; a pair of arched niches with shelves are set into the angled walls flanking the entrance. Main chamber has a floor of encaustic Wedgwood tiles, with anthemion and meander- patterned borders; to the centre is a mask of Medusa, within a Neo-classical surround. A slate slab runs along the west wall at waist height, carried on serpentine legs of cast iron in the Louis XV style; the slab is continued on the east side, flanking the stairs. Another arched niche is set into the centre of the west wall. On the walls are four plaster reliefs, signed by J. Gott, showing Bacchic scenes of putti frolicking with goats. A moulded cornice runs around the ceiling. HISTORY: This ornamental dairy was built as an adjunct to the celebrated Conservatory: the more functional dairy, using milk from Syon's considerable herds, stands immediately to the north. Its eclectic decoration is highly characteristic of its epoch, and it forms part of an outstanding group of mid-19th century garden structures. It has been used as an aquarium and as a store in recent times. The plaster reliefs by Joseph Gott (1786-1960) are believed to have been brought to the dairy from Stanwick Park, Yorkshire North Riding, another Percy seat. The dairy was built on the instructions of Algernon Percy, 6th Duke of Northumberland (b.1792, suc. 1847, d.1865). Syon Park Entrance Lodges and gates, London Road (Grade I): A unified composition by Robert Adam of 2 1-storey square lodges connected by a colonnaded screen and central arched gateway. Columns and central pilasters have "Temple of Aseculapius" capitals. Vide Country Life, V, p112. Syon House and its Lodges form a grade I group. Porter's Lodge at Syon House at corner of Park Road and Church Street (Grade II): 1 storey. Early C19. Ashlar front, yellow brick to rear. Granite plinth and piers. Hipped slate roof, subsidiary hip over canted bay in centre. Flat arched windows. Tall central chimney of 3 shafts in form of square column. Flat arch door to right, 3 granite steps, scraper. Garden Wall at Syon Park (Grade II): Wall, mid-C18 or earlier, running for 500 metres between the main vehicular entrance and Syon House (qv). Red brick, 6.5 metres high with some rebuilt and projecting copings. Included as a very complete survival of a parkland wall, and as a most important element of the historic 'Capability' Brown landscape. Boundary Wall to Syon Park (Grade II): Includes: Boundary wall to Syon Park LONDON ROAD. Boundary Wall, c.1,000 metres in length, running from the Duchess's Gateway (qv) on London Road, either side of the Lion Gate (qv) past the former Busch's corner and down Park Road to within ten metres of the present main entrance for motor vehicles. Some C17 work, much of the wall dates from the 1750s along London Road and the 1820s, when Park Road was laid out. Yellow stock brick, with red brick denoting earlier work. About two metres high, with replaced and repointed copings. No 1 Gate Lodge to Syon House. No 2 Gate Lodge to Syon House (Grade I): Pair (Nos 1 and 2) of early C17 square lodges. Ashlar. 2 storeys, 1 window. They have been refaced, but their position in relation to the entrance avenue and courtyard of Syon House merits their preservation with the house. Syon House and its Lodges form a grade I group.

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Stone vases in front of Syon House Conservatory (Grade II): Formal garden to South, with 12 carved Portland stone vases reputed to be by Grinling Gibbons and a circular pool with a bronze statue of Mercury. Former riding school of Syon Park (Grade II): Riding School, now garden centre. c1819-1826. Built for Hugh Percy, 3rd Duke of Northumberland (1785-1847), who succeeded in 1817. Brick. Roof of slate. The west elevation of nine-window range, above a bare ground-floor plinth. Each bay articulated by broad pilasters in contrasting brick and with a Diocletian window; blocked round- arched window in north gable end. Tudor effect to parapet coping. East elevation largely obscured by a C20 shed; faced in yellow brick and having no pilasters; battlemented section to the centre. The most noteworthy feature is found on the side, a 28-bay iron roof of composite truss construction. Although it is difficult to arrive at a precise date for this structure, its tentative design suggests one early in the history of iron construction. It can be attributed with a degree of certainty either to Charles Fowler, an advocate of all-iron roofs who was active at Syon later on, or to Thomas Cundy I, who recased Syon House in Bath stone in the early 1820s. The school reflects the late C18/early C19 revival of tightly controlled dressage and forms a group with the near contemporary stable block (q.v.). Alterations at the time of conversion to a garden centre, c1967, have obscured the north end where it joins the stable block; the floor is believed to date to the early C20, when the riding school was used as a war hospital. The Pavilion (Formerly listed as Syon Park Boathouse) (Grade I): Late C18, stucco facade by J Wyatt. 1 storey. 1:3:1 windows. Central bow has 3 semi-circular arched French windows, 4 Ionic columns, entablature, parapet, balustrade. Wings have double-hung sashes in sunk pancls; their entablature and parapet with step up containing panel, are lower than central features and do not read through. Domed green roof. The boathouses and grilles have disappeared and a granite sett terrace and sloping bank run in front of the pavilion. Stables of Syon Park (Grade II): 1831, yellow brick, "gothic" clock tower. 4 semi-circular windows with stone band under. Now used as gift shop for the Garden Centre. Syon Park (Grade I): C17 formal terraced gardens which were landscaped in the mid C18 by Lancelot Brown. Extensive development of the pleasure grounds continued in the later C19 and mid C20.

HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT

Syon Monastery, founded in 1415, moved to the site of Syon Park in 1431. At the time of the Dissolution in 1539, when it became the property of the Crown, there were 30 acres (12.5ha) of garden and orchard within its walls. In 1547, the same year that Henry VIII died, the Duke of Somerset, Protector of the Realm, was granted the monastery and the estate. He built a new house with raised terraces, one of which was triangular. The intention of the design of the terraces was to give views out to the Thames but the plan was misconstrued and Somerset was accused of plotting against the Crown, the terrace being said to be the first step towards fortification. In 1552 he was charged with felony and executed.

In 1553 Syon House was presented to the recently created Duke of Northumberland, John Dudley. Northumberland, his son, and Lady Jane Grey were all executed when their attempt to make Lady Jane Queen of England failed. In 1594, Henry Percy, the ninth Earl of Northumberland was granted the lease of Syon and between 1604 and 1606 spent over £3000 on improvements which included the two lodges in front of the west lawn. The plan of Syon by Ralph Tresswell, made in 1607, shows the lodges, the formal walled gardens, and the triangular terrace. A very severe frost in the winter of 1739 followed by several very dry summers resulted in the loss of almost all the elm trees in the groves and walks at Syon. In 1748 Syon House was given to Sir Hugh Smithson by his father-in-law, the seventh Duke of Somerset. Smithson considered it to be ruinous and inconvenient and accounts for the year 1749 include £2620 for 'Repairs necessary to be done at Sion House'. It is thought that the terraces to the south of the House were removed at this time (LUC 1991). Two years later the earldom of Northumberland was recreated and granted to Sir Hugh. In the same year he inherited extensive estates including Syon and Alnwick (qv) and embarked upon a programme of work on the House and grounds at Syon. Lancelot Brown (1716-83) was commissioned to redesign and enlarge the gardens and the park in 1754, and in 1762 Robert Adam (1728-92) was employed to remodel the House. At around the time that the earldom was raised to dukedom in 1766 (Sir Hugh becoming the first Duke), the park to the west of the House was created and a second lake made. In 1769

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Robert Adam designed a bridge for the new lake. Brown's account book records payments for Syon from the Duke of Northumberland continuing until the 1770s. Brown's improvements are recorded on a plan commissioned by the second Duke, who inherited to the title in 1786 (Sauthier, 1786/7).

The third Duke, who succeeded to the title in 1817, made a number of major improvements and it was he who opened the gardens to the public in 1837.

During the First World War the House was used as a military hospital and during the Second World War a number of incendiary devices were dropped onto the House and grounds. In 1962 the kitchen garden to the north was developed for housing and in 1964 the idea for a National Garden Centre at Syon was first considered. The project was confirmed in June 1965 as a joint venture by the tenth Duke of Northumberland and ICI. James Gardener was appointed designer. Works for the Garden Centre were undertaken between 1965 and 1968, these including conversion of the stable block for a new sales outlet, and the layout of new display gardens. The Garden Centre was opened by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother on 12 June 1968.

A National Garden Festival was held at Syon in 1974 and major alterations were made to the northern pleasure grounds to accommodate display areas. Syon Park lost 114 trees during the great storms of 1987 and 1990.

The site continues (2000) in private ownership.

DESCRIPTION

LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Syon Park is situated c 6km to the west of the centre of London, c 1km south-east of Brentford. (qv) lies 2.5km to the north-east, with (qv) c 4km to the east. The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (qv) lie c 250m to the east, on the opposite bank of the River Thames.

The c 80ha site is bounded to the north-west by London Road (A315). Residential and industrial developments form the boundary to the north. The River Thames provides the eastern boundary and Park Road the western boundary. A small residential development, Busch Close and Lodge Close, borders the site in the north-west corner. The largely level site slopes gently down to the River Thames. Brick walls of C17, C18, and C19 dates (listed grade II) mark the boundary to the north and west along much of London Road and Park Road.

ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES Syon Park is entered from Park Road at the south-west corner of the site. A tarmac road, which largely follows the line of one of a pair of avenues recorded on Fairchild's map of c 1739, leads through C20 wrought-iron gates, guarded to the east by a single-storey, early C19 porter's lodge (listed grade II), and continues north-east for c 700m before passing to the east the two early C17 battlemented lodge houses (listed grade I) built to guard the C17 entrance onto the Great Lime Avenue. North of the northern lodge the drive divides; the main drive continues north to the Garden Centre and car park, the branch to the east entering through wrought-iron gates into the oval forecourt to the west of Syon House. The drive from Park Road became the main entrance in the late C20 when the Lion Gate from London Road was permanently closed. The former main entrance is marked by a screen and entrance archway (listed grade I) designed by Robert Adam in 1769. This is a unified composition of two single-storey square lodges connected by a colonnaded screen and with a central arched gateway. The Archway, topped by a Northumberland lion, is hung with iron gates, the columns being filled in with railings of a similar style. The drive from the Lion Gate was made in the mid C18 and wound across the northern parkland, crossing Brown's lake before linking up with the Great Lime Avenue.

PRINCIPAL BUILDING Syon House (listed grade I), a large three-storey, four-square, stone-faced, battlemented building with regular Georgian fenestration stands c 100m back from the main entrance drive, behind the forecourt lawn. Built on the remains of a Brigettine nunnery (1430-70), the mansion was substantially reconstructed between 1547 and 1552 by Protector Somerset, to its present shape. Along the east front, at ground level, is a plain open loggia by Inigo Jones (1573-1652) which probably dates from the time of the tenth Earl of Northumberland who died in 1668. The House was

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later remodelled inside and out by Robert Adam from 1762 onwards. The stone facing, probably by Thomas Cundy I, dates from 1816 to 1826 and the Percy Lion on the roof of the east range was transferred from Old Northumberland House at Charing Cross in 1874.

To the north-west of the House are the stables (listed grade II). Built c 1831 in yellow brick, the stables and the gothic clock tower are, like the adjoining C19 Riding School (listed grade II), now part of the Garden Centre.

GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The main part of the pleasure grounds, occupying c 10ha, lie to the north and north-east of the House, with the Wilderness (c 7ha) to the south-west. The two areas are linked by the East Lawn.

The East Lawn extends east from the colonnaded east front of the House towards the River Thames. After c 100m the level ground is divided from the riverside tidal meadows by Lancelot Brown's ha-ha. This runs for more than 1km from the pleasure grounds in the north to a point c 100m to the north of the Pavilion at the southern end of the site. The East Lawn was until 1749 part of the formal gardens.

From the East Lawn a path leads north, passing to the west C18 laundry buildings and, after a further c 100m, veteran mulberry trees and C20 sports facilities to the east. The path then enters the informal woodland which lies to the south of the Serpentine River. The River, which runs for c 500m from west to east, was made by Lancelot Brown by 1764. Brown's bridge to the north was replaced as part of the 1974 Garden Festival. His second bridge, to the west, was removed and not replaced. The wooded area contains a number of fine trees including notable oaks, swamp cypresses, and copper beech. From the south bank of the Serpentine River there are views to the lawns and C20 shrubberies. The rising ground to the north of the water is largely laid to lawn decorated by C20 island beds and shrubberies, relicts from the 1974 Garden Festival when the ground was laid out as individual display areas. Flora's column (listed grade I) provides a focal point. This c 18m high late C18 Roman Doric column is topped by a statue of Flora (restored in the C20). Laid out on agricultural land (Tresswell, 1607; Glover, 1635), Brown's design for the area included not only the Serpentine River but also clumps and serpentine belts of trees forming generous spaces related to and looking across the Serpentine River to the wooded grounds, with discreet framed views going beyond to the tidal meadow on the north bank of the River Thames and across the Thames to Kew and Richmond on the south side. These views are now (2000) largely blocked by the informal woodland on the south bank of the Serpentine River.

To the south of the East Lawn is the Cedar Mound. Made in the mid C18 on the site of the triangular terrace, the Cedar Mound is thought to pre-date Brown's improvements (LUC 1991). The Mound has been periodically replanted with cedars, the latest phase being undertaken in 2000.

To the south-west of the Cedar Mound is the Wilderness. An elongated 7ha strip of land, enclosed between a mid C18 brick wall to the west and the ha-ha to the east, the Wilderness extends for c 500m towards the southern boundary. The line of the Wilderness has been truncated to the north by the mid C20 Rose Garden and to the south by the late C18 Pavilion (listed grade I). Designed by James Wyatt, the single-storey building once housed a boathouse. The Wilderness is largely laid to lawns decorated with varied, loose groups of specimen trees and retains the spirit if not the form of the C18 Wilderness. The formation of the area seems to have been achieved after 1739 (Fairchild) and before 1746 (Rocque). The layout is most clearly seen on Rocque's revised plan of 1762 and Sauthier (1787). Following the loss of elms in the formal walks and groves after the great frost of 1739 and the demolition of the formal gardens, there was a need for a suitably planted backdrop to the sweeping riverside lawns. The plan which emerged contained a serpentine walk passing through loose groves and more formal glades and leading to a flower garden/shrubbery at the southern limits where a formal chestnut avenue formed a channel to the tidal Thames. Accounts in C19 journals refer to the splendours of the South Walk leading to the rosery, oval pond, and the pineground as well as fine mature cedars (LUC 1991).

PARK The c 26ha park lies to the west of the House and is bordered to the south and south-east by the main drive and the western boundary wall of the Wilderness, and to the west by London Road. The C20 Garden Centre provides the boundary to the north. Belts of trees grow along the south and

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west boundaries and clumps grow within the park. Many of the trees survive from C18/C19 plantings (LUC 1991). The park is dominated by Lancelot Brown's second (c 3ha) piece of water, with an iron bridge (listed grade II) designed by Charles Fowler c 1827, which replaced the original by Robert Adam.

The parkland took on its present shape in the mid C18; previously there was a series of fields and meadows. The area may have become parkland by 1700, coinciding with the laying out of Great Lime Avenue and other splayed rows of trees (Fairchild, c 1739). The extent of the early parkland was constrained until Syon Farm (to the west of the House) was demolished in the early 1760s and the road to Isleworth diverted. The OS plan of 1869 shows that some 100 years after Brown's intervention there were c 100 parkland trees.

KITCHEN GARDEN The main walled kitchen garden was situated to the north of London Road and has been subsumed under residential developments in the mid C20. The C19 Flower Garden survives however to the east of the stables and is enclosed within a high brick wall to the west and south, the laundry buildings to the south-east, and a wooden fence to east and north-east. The focal point of the garden is the Conservatory (listed grade I), built for the third Duke c 1827 and designed by Charles Fowler, with advice from Robert Forrest the head gardener. The domed centre is linked to end pavilions by curving glazed wings.

The Garden, which provides the setting for the Conservatory, is decorated with twelve carved Portland stone vases (listed grade II) reputed to be by Grinling Gibbons and a circular pool with a bronze statue of Mercury (listed grade II). The ground to the south of the Conservatory is laid to lawn, the flower beds which changed in shape and content over the 150 years since Robert Forrest designed them having been grassed over. To the south, set in the earthworks which form banks around the Flower Garden is a tunnel which gave access to the stable yard. The earthworks are further decorated with rockeries originally made by Robert Forrest.

OTHER LAND Between the ha-ha to the east of the East Lawn and the river are the tidal meadows. Extending along the full 1.5km river frontage of Syon Park, the tidal meadows are partly grazed. The river front has an almost continuous band of self-seeded willows linking older clumps of poplar and swamp cypress and as a result, with the exception of the vista to and from the Royal Botanic Gardens, there is now little direct visual relationship to or across the River Thames.

REFERENCES

R and J Dodsley, London and its Environs Described 6, (1761), pp 7, 14 G J Aungier, History and Antiquities of Syon Monastery (1840), pp 120-2 Historical Survey and Landscape Management Strategy for Syon Park, (Land Use Consultants 1991)

Maps [all reproduced in LUC 1991] Ralph Tresswell, Map of Isleworth, 1607 Moses Glover, Map of Isleworth and Syon, 1635 Fairchild, A plan of the grounds of Syon House, c 1739 J Rocque, Plan of the Cities of London and Westminster and Borough of Southwark, published 1746, revised 1762 C J Sauthier, Plan of Isleworth-Syon, 1786/7 W James and Thomas Chapman, Isleworth Enclosure Award Plan, 1818 Wm Thos Wayne, Survey of Syon House, surveyed 1813-14, corrected 1850

OS 25" to 1 mile: 1st edition published 1869 2nd edition published 1894 3rd edition published 1914

Description written: March 2000

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Register Inspector: LCH Edited: July 2001

Other information:

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Area ‘I’: Gunnersbury Park

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Gunnersbury House, Gunnersbury Ave, W3 Original Use Residential

Current Use Local Museum / Open to Public

Construction 18th Date/Period century

Already Grade I Listed? and II Statutory Listed, see below ON EH “AT RISK” REGISTER

Group Yes Conservation Area? Gunnersbury Park Value? Conservation Area

Description: Gunnersbury Park House - Large Mansion (Grade II*): Country house, now museum. 1801-28 by and for Alexander Copland; remodelled 1836 by Sydney Smirke for Nathan Rothschild. Stucco over brick; slate roofs; stuccoed brick stacks. Plan has service area to right of main body of house, centred around entrance hall and rear ante-room. Italianate style. 3 storeys; symmetrical 7-window range of 2:3:2 fenestration with rusticated quoine to slightly-projecting outer bays, heavy moulded string course to second storey and moulded cornice to parapet. Paired Tuscan columns in antis to porte- cochere with Tuscan pilasters flanking panelled door and windows to each side. 8-pane ground-floor sashes set in raised architraves with floating cornices; semi-circular arched 8-pane first-floor sashes have moulded architraves continued as moulded impost courses; 6-pane square-headed second-floor sashes. Left-hand side elevation has mid C19 semi-circular bay window front and 2-storey semi- circular bay to rear. Similar rear (garden) elevation has central 3-storey, 5-window range flanked by projecting 2-storey, 3-window range blocks with central second-floor string course continued as cornices beneath parapets of outer blocks: ground-floor French windows of central range are recessed behind screen of Tuscan columns and entablature; quoined outer blocks have-2-light first- floor and ground-floor French windows set in slightly-projecting bays with channelled rustication to first floor and Tuscan columns to ground floor. Service range to right, of 2 to 3 storeys, has 6 to 12- paned horned sashes, and doorway framed by Tuscan pilasters and entablature to right of still room, now porch, of 1905; mid C18 semi-circular arched archway to right, built of rusticated flint with Portland stone imposts, keystone and coping surmounted by ball finials; one-storey garden elevation to rear, with central concave recess and semi-circular arched niches and moulded parapets. Interior: fine range of rooms by Smirke, mostly in C18 French style, with panelled doors set in raised architraves with bracketed cornices and shutters. Entrance hall has open-well staircase with foliate wrought-iron balustrade, garlanded quilloche frieze beneath moulded enriched cornice and foliate ceiling boss. Former parlour to left has marble fireplace and moulded cornice, and anthemion cornice in anteroom to rear. Former library to right has marble fireplace with claw feet to paired reeded columns. Former vestibule to rear of entrance hall has narrow end bays defined by fluted pilasters to

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segmental arches, framing domed star-spangled ceiling with bay-leaf laurels and spandrels. Former music room, to rear left, has eagle-brackets to semi-circular arched tympanum with Rothschild arms surmounting doorway, bracketed foliate cornices over two doorways flanking festooned marble fireplace with putti and angled console brackets; fine plasterwork to ceiling, with naturalistic fruit, foliage etc, to ribs dividing panels. Former drawing room, to right of ante-room, has Ionic scagliola columns separating narrow end bays; fireplace and tall overmantle mirror framed by scagliola columns with gilt bay-leaf pulvinated frieze to stele-type swan-necked pediment with antefixae; coved cornice to star-spangled ceiling with oval painting of The Four Seasons by Edmond Thomas Parris. Former dining room to far right has bolection-panelled walls with antheniae to concave corners; cartouche flanked by palm fronds set in tympanum of pedimented doorway; blocked fireplace set in recessed bay framed by scagliola columns with gilt Corinthian capitals; foliate quilloche frieze to elaborate plasterwork ceiling with naturalistic fruit, foliage etc to ribs dividing panels and antheniae to central boss. First floor has moulded cornicing and marble fireplaces; foliate wrought-iron balustrade to oval balcony over corridor to right. Service area to right has former butler's pantry with original mid C19 cupboards and fittings, two staircases with wood and iron balustrades and panelled doors; kitchen to right has cast-iron range of c.1840 with trivets, smoke jack, boiler and oven, and early (c.1850) cast-iron gas range by Timpson of Ealing; adjoining scullery turned into kitchen in mid C19, with plainer cast-iron range. Smirke's interiors at Gunnersbury Park House are the earliest example of French-inspired interiors characteristic of the Rothschild family's later C19 house. Gunnersbury House (Grade II): The smaller of the 2 houses built to replace that demolished after Princess Amelia's death in 1786. Built for Major Morrison circa 1810. War damage to interior. 2 storeys with cornice and pierced roof parapet. Stucco. North front recessed centre 3:3:3: sashes in moulded architrave with keystone. Unaltered early porch with fluted Doric columns entablature blocking course. South front recessed centre, and bows. 3:3:3 windows, sashes except for 3 French windows. Central ground floor Chinoiserie verandah, cast iron columns and bell ornament. 1837-44 Service wing added by Peacock fronted on South by Orangery rusticated with 7 arches between pilasters. Sashes except for half glazed end doors in coved reveals under open pediments. House lent to gentile guests of the Rothchilds for weekend use. Damaged by fire but now to be used as gardeners' educational centre (December 1968). Temple in Gunnersbury Park (Grade II*): Built before 1760. probably on Princess Amelia's instructions in the 5 years of negotiations preceding the purchase of house. Mentioned in letter of sale to her. Red brick with stone tetrastyle Bonmn Doric portico on stylobate of 5 steps. Columns have square bases. Entablature with guttae, triglyphs and carved metopes. Pediment with cartouche and garlands in tympanum. Wall of portico had dado and 2 semi-circular arched niches with plaster-cast statues on pedestals. Door surround of architrave, frieze between consoles, cornice and pediment. Ceiling has octagonal caissons.Welsh slate roof. Cellars. In derelict condition (December 1968). Archway to Gunnersbury Park (West of East entrance Lodge to Gunnersbury Lane) (Grade II): Stucco. Early C19. Pedimented. Greek fret ornament. Semi-circular arch. North Entrance Gateway of Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Earlier C19. 4 tall stucco piers with pilasters entablatures original lamps. Central 2 fold cast iron gates of imposing, florid neo-classical design. East Lodge of Gunnersbury Park with archway and entrance gateway (Grade II): Early C19. Stucco 1 storey Doric angle pilasters and portico in antis with 2 columns and pediment. Sash windows under small cornices on consoles. Curved yellow brick wall to North West connecting with stucco archway under pediment. 2 wrought iron lamps. Arch enclosed by incised line ending either side in Greek fret pattern motifs. Gothic ruins on borders of former Japanese Gardens, Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Made for Rothschild family early to mid C19. Brick walls cement rendered. pointed arches, including triple arched panels. Round turret with spiral staircase. 2 arches with pillars half sunk in ground. Kitchen garden wall, including carved door and wrought iron gate Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Brick wall. gateway With impost bands iron gate and carved door in doorway. Reputedly built by Princess Amelia out of the profits from gambling. Included for group value. West Stables in Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Stables. Early C19, remodelled 1836 by Sydney Smirke for Nathan Rothschild; remains of Gothic sham to rear built 1837-40 by William Fuller Pocock for Thomas Farmer of Gunnersbury House. Stucco over brick; hipped slate roofs; stuccoed brick ridge stacks. L-plan with front-left wing. Italianate style. 2 storeys; 8-window range to front and 2-window range to wing on left. Rusticated bay to left of centre, with round window over semi-circular arched doorway, surmounted by pedimented bell-tower. Square-headed 2-light first-floor windows over semi- circular arched doorway and lunettes to left and garage/coach house doors to right; rusticated end

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bay to right has blind oval window set above semi-circular arched doorway; canted bay to right gable end. No interior features of interest. Subsidiary features: Gothic-style rear elevation, with each buttressed bay having group of 3 blind lancets over blind pointed arch: built as Gothic folly in order to hide view of stables from Gunnersbury House. Archway to South-West of Gunnersbury Park House (Grade II): C18 archway. Cement-rendered brick with stone imposts and open pediment. Coffered reveal containing 2 segmental niches with stone pedestals. Gateway near Princess Amelia's Bath House, Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Late C18. Rusticated Portland stone. Coade stone plaques. Brick to rear. Semi-circular arch, entablature, blocking course. Paterae on outer surfaces beside spandrels. Dairy at Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): C18. Probably built by Princess Amelia. 1 storey stucco. Front has facade of 5 round-headed stuccoed arches with rusticated heads and entablature above. Now derelict and used for storage. Gothic Boathouse and Pavilion on South shore of Potomac Fish pond. Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Site of a former pottery. Early C19. built by Rothschild family. Symmetrical design of square plan basement and ground floor. octagonal lst and dunhw 2nd floors. Brick reddish brown with stucco quoins window dressings floor bends and battlement copings. Decorated Gothic windows with stone tracery. Stone fountain near Refreshment room, Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): C19 stone fountain with putti. North Lodge of Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Early C19. Stucco, 1 storey. Welsh slate low pitched roof with wide eaves. Tetrastyle Doric portico with mutules to pediment. Casement windows with glazing bars. Conservatory in Gunnersbury Park (Grade II*): Early C19 possibly by Smirke junior, circa 1836-7. Stucco and painted stone glass roof. Roman Doric pilasters entablature blocking course. Central semi-circular bow with engaged columns. 3:5:3: windows with glazing bars. central 2 fold half glazed door. North wing rusticated with 2 Roman Doric columns in antis. NMR. Boundary Wall At Gunnersbury Park (Grade II): Eastern and part of south boundary wall of the park of Gunnersbury House. 1658-63 by John Webb for Sir John Maynard. Wall runs north-south from east gateway, returning west at the south end for 22 metres. Red brick laid in English bond. EXTERIOR: east side of north-south run with flat plinth course rising in height as ground level drops to the south. Flat coping bricks laid on edge. 7 late C17 raking buttresses at intervals. At the north end the wall abuts the east gateway into the park. West side with butt join indicating a former doorway, removed late C 17. East-west return begins at rebuilt corner: similar construction with areas of whitewashed plaster indicating former garden buildings abutting. One 2-light window frame inserted C18. The wall has group value with other listed buildings within the park, particularly the east gateway. Archway at east end of terrace, Gunnersbury Park Mansion (Grade II): Early C19. Stucco with pediment, round-headed arch, impost bands.

Gothic outbuildings East of Gunnersbury House. including arcade grotto shelter and room known as Princess Amelia's Bath Rouse (Grade II): Late C18 or early C19. Stucco or brick castellated with pinnacles and buttresses. Arcade of 4 Tudor arches to upper terrace with wooden grilles and wrought iron gate. Pierced parapets to upper and lower terrace, retaining walls. South West grotto with imitation rock surfaces South East room with canted bay to South. Semi-octagonal shelter on South with central doorway and side windows all with 4 centred arches. Flat roofs. Damaged in a fire in the war. Princess Amelia was a friend of Walpole (Strawberry Hill) and may have been influenced by him, if she was responsible for the design. Series of 6 Iron lampstandards in front of Gunnersbury Park Mansion (Grade II): Six C19 gas lamp standards of various designs in iron in the area of drive fronting Gunnersbury Park Mansion, East Stables in Gunnersbury Park (Grade II*): Mid C19 possibly incorporating earlier structure. Stucco. Entablature. Solid parapet. consoles to cornice of projecting centre and end pilasters. 6 semi- circular windows with archivolts. Rusticated wall below and to centre with tall arch round-headed in coved reveal. Over centre of parapet richly carved Portland stone Rothschild shield of arms with mantling. West Lodge (Grade II): C.1875. Designer unknown. Portland stone rough-faced masonry with Bath stone dressings. Two storeys. A pair of gate houses linked by a four-centred arch with hood mould, with side extensions and canted bays to the rear. Mullioned four-light windows, two-light to bay at rear, rendered castellated parapet. Gates now removed. HISTORY: This lodge, built to serve Gunnersbury Park, stands on land acquired by the Rothschilds in 1861. It is first recorded as

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occupied in the 1881 Census, when it was called 'Barons Lodges'. A picturesque park building in the castle or baronial style, and a prominent feature in the landscape. Gunnersbury Park (Grade II*): An C18 formal garden, altered mid C18 with some involvement from William Kent. The grounds were developed in the later C18 for Princess Amelia and extended in the mid C19 by Baron Lionel de Rothschild. The site became a public park in 1925.

HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT

The area in which Gunnersbury Park is situated was, in the Middle Ages, an estate owned by the bishops of London, part of the Manor of Fulham. By 1656 Gunnersbury had been purchased by Sir John Maynard (1602-90). Maynard engaged the architect John Webb (1611-72), pupil and relative of Inigo Jones, to build a new manor house on the estate. Gunnersbury estate was purchased by Henry Furness, MP and art collector, in 1739. A map surveyed in 1741 (Rocque, 1746) shows a formal layout south of the house, with the main axis, at one point flanked by formal canals, aligned on the house and continuing south through the pleasure grounds in the form of an avenue. It is thought (Butcher et al 1993) that Furness engaged William Kent, who he knew socially, to enlarge and alter the estate. Kent's professional connection is evident from a payment of £55 received from Furness in April 1743. Princess Amelia, favourite daughter of George II, purchased Gunnersbury Park in 1761 and set about improving and extending the estate. Princess Amelia enjoyed entertaining at Gunnersbury and her guests included Horace Walpole who was then living at Strawberry Hill (qv), Twickenham.

The Princess continued to use Gunnersbury as her summer residence until her death in 1786, after which the property passed through a number of owners until 1800 when it was purchased by John Morley, a floorcloth manufacturer of Chelsea. Morley demolished the Webb house and divided the estate into thirteen lots, with a view to development, thus causing the creation of two separate estates, a partition which was to last for eighty-seven years. In 1802 Alexander Copland (c 1774- 1834), a partner of the architect Henry Holland, bought ten of the thirteen lots and Stephen Cosser bought Lot 1, the north-east side of the estate. Copland subsequently purchased the remaining two lots having already built himself 'The Large Mansion', Gunnersbury Park. 'The Small Mansion', Gunnersbury House, was built to the east either by Cosser (Lysons and Brewer 1816), or his successor Major Alexander Morrison who bought the former Lot 1 land in 1807 (Faulkner 1845). In 1828 the Gunnersbury House estate was purchased by Thomas Farmer who lived there, with Copland as his neighbour, until 1835 when Gunnersbury Park was bought by Nathan Mayer Rothschild. The new owner immediately contacted J C Loudon about improving the approach to the house from Pope's Lane. It is not known if Loudon's proposals were put into effect. Rothschild died the following year, having never resided at Gunnersbury, but the Rothschild family, who in 1889 reunited the site, continued to live at Gunnersbury until 1925. During that time Lionel Rothschild bought land to the south-west including a clay pit which he made into a pond. The family continued to improve the estate and Gunnersbury became renown for its horticultural excellence and often featured in the gardening press of the late C19 and early C20.

After the death of Leopold de Rothschild in 1917 the estate was broken up and gradually sold off. In 1925 75ha, including both houses and the garden buildings, were purchased for public use by the then boroughs of Acton and Ealing, with Middlesex County Council contributing to the cost. The park was formally opened to the public by Neville Chamberlain, MP, on 21 May 1926. In the early years of the park's public ownership many of the horticultural practices continued, but with increased provision for recreation. During the Second World War the playing fields accommodated anti-aircraft positions and new roads were made.

The park continues (1999) in public ownership.

DESCRIPTION

LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Gunnersbury Park is situated in the suburbs of West London, c 1km south of Acton. Chiswick House (qv) is c 2km to the south-east, and Syon Park (qv) c 2km to the south-west. Walpole Park (qv), Ealing is c 2km to the north. The 75ha site is bounded to the north by the backs of houses on the south side of Pope's Lane (B4491). Pope's Lane provides the boundary to the north-east corner, and Gunnersbury Avenue (A406 North Circular) the boundary to the east. The southern boundary is made

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up of to the west, a belt of factories, and to the east Kensington Cemetery. A local road, Lionel Road, provides the southern half of the west boundary with the backs of houses in the same road forming the boundary to the north-west. The site slopes down generally from north to south.

ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The main entrance is through the north gateway (listed grade II) on Pope's Lane. The impressive early C19 iron gates are hung from four tall stucco piers with entablatures and original lamps. Inside the gates to the east is the North Lodge (listed grade II). Sidney Smirke added a Doric portico to the Lodge c 1835, which is now (1999) used as offices by the Park Wardens and houses an information service. The curving drive, flanked by C19 lamp standards (listed grade II), continues in a south- easterly direction towards the two mansions, Gunnersbury Park and Gunnersbury House, which face north-west and are fronted by lawns. The surviving lamp standards have been restored (late 1990s) and replica replacements made where necessary. To the south-east of the North Lodge is the East Lodge (listed grade II). Now (1999) in poor condition, the Lodge stands to the north of the drive which leads from Gunnersbury Avenue to Gunnersbury House. The Lodge was built by William Fuller Pocock for Thomas Farmer c 1837 after the park was divided and Gunnersbury House built. A pair of lodges guard the third entrance at the extreme south of the site. This entrance was made by 1891 to provide access to the estate from Kew Bridge railway station. A fourth entrance to the west of the main, north entrance provides (1999) access to the parking area and the playing fields. In the mid C19 it led to the Kitchen Garden (OS 1865). Lesser pedestrian entrances are to be found to the east of the stables, along the western boundary, and in the north-west corner of the site.

PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS Situated to the north-east of the site and set on the top of a broad east/west terrace overlooking the pleasure grounds and parkland, is Gunnersbury Park (listed grade II*). This building is referred to historically as 'The Large Mansion', to distinguish it from 'The Small Mansion' (listed grade II) which lies to the north-east. The three-storeyed stuccoed mansion has a slate roof and stuccoed brick stacks. The entrance front has a porte-cochere with paired Tuscan columns; a bow window surrounded by a conservatory decorates the east side. To the south, the garden front has a three- storey centre with tall, arched first-floor windows above a ground-floor Tuscan loggia. The Large Mansion was built by 1802 for Alexander Copland, probably to his own design. It was bought by Nathan Mayer Rothschild in c 1835 and was substantially remodelled by Sydney Smirke. He added the north-east parlour and south-west dining room and encased all in a handsome stucco exterior. The mansion has, since 1929, housed the Gunnersbury Park Museum with social history collections and Victorian kitchens.

To the east of Gunnersbury Park lies Gunnersbury House, 'The Small Mansion' (listed grade II). Built by 1828 after the Gunnersbury House estate was bought by Thomas Farmer, it now (1999) houses the Small Mansion Arts Centre in its main rooms.

GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The pleasure grounds are laid out around the mansions to the north-east of the site. Inside the main entrance the drive divides, the main, eastern branch curving to the south towards Gunnersbury Park. The western branch leads to the Italian Garden, planted out with roses in the C19 style. First recorded as the Italian Garden in c 1880, the garden has been known by various names: the circular garden in 1835, when it was surrounded by roses on wirework; the Temple Garden in 1906, when there is the first reference to water around the sundial; and an 'old time garden' in 1910 (Butcher et al, 1993). South of the Italian Garden the path divides around the Temple and the Round Pond. The Temple (listed grade II*) overlooks the Round Pond from which it is separated by low iron railings and a narrow sloping lawn. The brick building has a white wooden pedimented south front with four Doric columns and a frieze with bucrania attached. Built for Princess Amelia, probably by Sir William Chambers (CL 1982), the building was known in the late C18 as the Dairy. Many of the cedars which were planted around the Temple were lost in the storms of 1987 and some replanting has been undertaken. The Round Pond, now (1999) partly enclosed in C20 iron railings, is first shown on Nichol's map of 1777 and is thought (CL 1982) to date from the ownership of Princess Amelia; it was probably made at the same time as the Temple. Since the 1920s the Pond has been used as a boating lake and is also used as a stock pond for fish.

The western branch of the path proceeds south-west around the Temple and Pond with the Kitchen Garden (now, 1999, a commercial nursery) and the C20 Bowling Greens to the west, and on into the

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park. The eastern branch of the path continues south around the Pond, past the C20 refreshment room and children's playground to the east. After c 80m this path divides, the branch to the west curving between the southern end of the Pond and the C20 golf course before meeting up opposite the Kitchen Garden with the path from the north. The eastern branch swings east towards Gunnersbury Park before turning south where it divides. The path to the east leads south to the terrace, while the southern path continues to the south, passing steps which lead up through an C18 archway (listed grade II) onto the terrace to the east. Made from cement-rendered brickwork with stone imposts and an open pediment, the arch has coffered reveals and contains two segmental niches with stone pedestals. The terrace extends for c 200m along the south front of both Gunnersbury Park and Gunnersbury House. A tarmac path embellished with wooden seats leads along the top of a grass slope. The lack of ornamentation is in contrast to the descriptions of the terrace during the period of the Rothschilds' ownership when the gardening periodicals of that time described it as being decorated with many pot-grown plants, some of which were trained up the walls (Gunnersbury Park Museum Archive). From the terrace there are views to the south-east over open lawns with peripheral plantings, most of which appear to date from the C20. A line of trees marks the former division between the Gunnersbury Park and Gunnersbury House estates. Between c 1828, when the estate was first divided, and 1889, when it was reunited, the land to the west went with the former and land to east with the latter. A depression in the lawn marks the site of Horseshoe Pond, the east end of which is marked by the (?C18) cement-rendered, brick-built sham bridge, and the west end by a C20 rock garden. Made between 1741 (Rocque) and 1777 (Map of the Parish of Ealing), the Horseshoe Pond was set directly below the Webb mansion. When the estate was divided the lake was also split in two but was maintained as water until the late C20 when first the eastern part and then the western part dried up. To the south of the rock garden is the Orangery (listed grade II) built by Smirke c 1836-7 to overlook the Horseshoe Pond. The glazed building has a central semicircular bay with engaged Doric columns to the east.

The wide tarmac path along the top of the terrace continues past first Gunnersbury Park and then Gunnersbury House. To the east of the latter, north of the terrace, is the site of the abandoned herbaceous garden. The path continues along the terrace and through an early C19 arcade (listed grade II as part of a complex of a late C18/early C19 gothic outbuildings to the south). The arcade has four Tudor arches and a battlemented top. The outbuildings include a grotto shelter, and a room known as Princess Amelia's Bath House. Derelict in 1999, these buildings have attracted grant aid with a view to restoration. The path terminates at the eastern boundary wall alongside Gunnersbury Avenue. From this point a path leads south to the east of the gothic outbuildings and continues alongside the eastern boundary wall, over the sham bridge, to the Gothic Ruins. Listed grade II, the brick-built ruins were made for the Rothschild family in the mid C19. To the south of the Ruins is the Japanese Garden; constructed on land which formerly belonged to the Gunnersbury House estate, the garden, which was carefully designed by James Hudson (gardener to Leopold Rothschild) after Japanese models, was completed just after 1900. To the south-east of the Japanese Garden are the stables (listed grade II) built by Sidney Smirke for Nathan Rothschild, with the north range constructed on the border with the Gunnersbury House estate. In order to screen the buildings, Thomas Farmer decorated his side with Gothic-style elevations. The path continues to the west of the stables and into the parkland.

PARK The c 60ha of open parkland extends from the south round to the north of the pleasure grounds. The park is today (1999) given over to recreation. A public golf course dominates the central area with sports pitches and open areas to the west and the south. Boundary planting shown on an estate map of 1847 (Kretschmar) survives and it was after this date that the Rothschilds expanded the parkland to the west, using part of the land as a Polo field and part for agricultural purposes. In addition to farmland, in 1861 the Rothschilds acquired a former clay pit and tile kiln to the south-west of the property, transforming the pit into the Potomac Pond and the kiln into the Gothic Boathouse (listed grade II). J W Pulham was responsible for the elevations of the boathouse and also for the rockery that decorates the path to the east of the lake.

KITCHEN GARDEN The walled Kitchen Garden, which lies immediately to the west of the Round Pond, is not open to the public. Its is currently (1999) used by two private organisations as a commercial nursery and for horticultural training. The ground was included in the estate by the beginning of C19 and is shown as Lot 3 on the Sale map of 1802. The OS map of 1865 shows a number of glasshouses and fruit trees

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in the area. As well as fruit and exotic plants the gardens were famous for their vineries, orchids, and pineapples (guidebook 1993).

REFERENCES

Lysons and Brewer, Beauties of England ... and Middlesex (1816), p 339 T Faulkner, Brentford, Ealing and Chiswick (1845) Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, 32 (1907), pp 1-10 B Jones, Follies & Grottoes (1974), p 329 Butcher et al, Gunnersbury Park ( Aspects of Conservation, (unpublished report, Architectural Association 1993) [copy on EH file] Gunnersbury Park and The Rothschilds, guidebook, (Hounslow Leisure Services 1993)

Maps J Rocque, Plan of the Cities of London and Westminster and Borough of Southwark, published 1746 W Nichols of Brentford, Map of the Parish of Ealing, 1777, revised 1822 (reproduced in Butcher et al 1993) Plan as part of an Identure showing 13 lots, 1802 (reproduced in guidebook 1993) Tithe map of Ealing parish, 1839 (reproduced in Butcher et al 1993) E Kretschmar, Map of Gunnersbury Park, 1847 (reproduced in guidebook 1993)

OS 25" to 1 mile: 1st edition published 1865 2nd edition published 1891 3rd edition published 1913 1935 edition

Archival items Gunnersbury Park Museum Archives ()

Description written: December 1999 Register Inspector: LCH Edited: June 2001

ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK” REGISTER DESCRIPTIONS: Large Mansion, Gunnersbury Pk House, Gunnersbury Pk: Country house 1801-28 by and for Alexander Copland; remodelled 1836 by Sydney Smirke for Nathan Rothschild. Good interiors, houses local history museum and education centre for the Boroughs of Hounslow and Ealing. A major 'Heritage Grant' bid has been submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund, which includes repair and restoration of the building for continued use as a local history museum. Small Mansion, Gunnersbury Pk: Built circa 1810, the smaller of the two houses on the site of Gunnersbury House demolished circa 1801. Discussions are continuing with local planning authorities in order to secure repair and reuse of the building. English Heritage has awarded a grant towards urgent repairs to the roof, which are due to commence in May 2012. Gothic Ruins, Gunnersbury Pk: Sham Gothic ruins, on the east side of Gunnersbury Park. A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes priority works of repair to the ruins. East Lodge: Entrance lodge circa 1837. All that remains are small sections of the south and west elevations. 'A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes works of repair to the East Lodge. EH has awarded a grant towards urgent repairs in order to secure the structural stability of the remaining elements of the lodge, which are due to commence in May 2012. West Stable Block: Early C19 stables situated within Gunnersbury Park. Emergency works have been undertaken, partly funded by English Heritage. Discussions are continuing with local planning authorities in order to secure repair and reuse of the building. Boundary Wall: Part of boundary wall of the garden of the original Gunnersbury House, built 1658-63 by John Webb for Sir John Maynard. Wall runs north-south from arch to south east of Princess Amelia's Bath House. A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes priority works of repair to the wall.

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East Stables: Stable block 1835, on the eastern edge of Gunnersbury Park, to the south of the Small Mansion. Emergency works have been undertaken, partly funded by English Heritage. Discussions are continuing with local planning authoties in order to secure repair and reuse of the building. Gunnersbury Park: A landscape park developed in the C18 by Princess Amelia and in C19 by Baron Lionel de Rothschild. Became a public park in 1925. Landscape in variable condition. London Borough of Ealing submitted a Parks for People Pre-application for Heritage Lottery funding for restoration of the landscape in the heritage core area and recreation of the west side of the horseshoe lake. A decision on the application is expected in summer 2012. A community horticulture and training scheme is proposed for the walled garden. North Lodge, Gunnersbury Pk: Early C19 lodge building in classical style with Doric portico. A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes priority works of repair to the lodge. English Heritage has awarded a grant towards urgent repairs, which are due to commence in May 2012. It is anticipated that the lodge will be used by local community groups. West Lodge, Gunnersbury Pk: Lodge building dating from 1875 in manner of gate house, partly in use for residential purposes. English Heritage has awarded a grant towards urgent repairs to the roofs of the unoccupied part of the lodge and the archway, which are due to commence in May 2012. Gothic Boathouse, Gunnersbury Pk: Mid C19 Gothic folly tower, converted from a tile kiln and situated on the southern shore of Potomac Lake. Emergency works have been undertaken, partly funded by English Heritage. A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes priority works of repair to the boathouse. Archway near East Entrance Lodge, Gunnersbury Pk: Stucco pedimented archway, circa 1837, situated near to the East Lodge, on the eastern edge of Gunnersbury Park, a public park since 1925. A major 'Parks for People' bid was submitted to the Heritage Lottery Fund in November 2011, which includes works of repair to the arch. EH has awarded a grant towards urgent repairs in order to secure the structural stability of the arch, which are due to commence May 2012.

Other information: Sept 2013 – Planning Permission applied for smaller mansion to be converted into a private school.

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Section ‘J’: Churches (in alphabetical order, for reference)

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Former Baptist Chapel, North Rd, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Currently being converted into flats Construction C19th Date/Period century Already Locally Listed? Listed

Photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Victorian Chapel of yellow stock brick. Work is being undertaken to convert the building, at the time of writing, 2013.

Other information: Sept 2013 – Now converted into flats.

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St Faith’s Church, Windmill Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1906-7 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Built in 1906 - 1907 in Gothic revival style to a design by GF Bodley and CG Hare. John Betjeman wrote ‘St Faith’s displays all the splendour of Bodley in its simplicity and strength. It rises like a great ship over the housetops and inside the view from the west end leads you naturally to the altar and up to the roof’.

Other information: .

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Brentford Free Church, Boston Manor Rd, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1783 Date/Period Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed as “Congregational Church”

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area? Brief Description: EH Listing Description for Congregational Church: Built 1782. Brown brick. Pediment with blocked circular lunette. Triple arcade, 2 bays blank flanking double door with fan. 2 steps and scraper. NMR. EH Listing Description for Entrance Gateway: Fine C18 wrought iron gates between brown brick piers with stone coping and pineapples. NMR.

Other information: It’s thought that the wall and gate have been set back from the road many years ago as it’s not possible to read the inscription on a grave inside the wall. The congregation was joined by the local Presbyterians in 1972 to form the Brentford United Reform Church and then by the Baptists to become Brentford Free Church in 1994. Old hall demolished and new church built in 2000. Original church is completely modern inside and restored to its original height after many years as a single storey after bomb damage in February 1944.

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St Georges Church, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Closed

Construction 1887 Date/Period Already Locally Listed Listed? as “Church now Musical Museum, Kew Bridge Rd”

Interior Photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Church built 1887 to replace the original that was built 1762 for local people led by the Trimmer family (local brick & tile makers). Tower (by A Blomfield) added 1913. Used as Museum for mechanical musical instruments from 1963. The Musical Museum is now in purpose built accommodation at 399, High Street. Some years ago, planning permission was obtained to convert the church into flats, but building work stalled due to the recession. 2013 in poor condition

Other information:

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St John’s Church, Boston Park Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1866 Date/Period Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation No Area? Brief Description: Opened in 1866 when the Roman Catholic congregation moved from an old Baptist Chapel in the Market Place.

Other information: .

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Former Jubilee Methodist Chapel, New Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Offices

Construction 1897 Date/Period Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value? Brief Description: Plaque says: “Primitive Methodist Jubilee Chapel, AD 1897”

Other information:

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St Lawrence’s Church, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Derelict

Construction 15th century with th Date/Period 18 century additions Already Listed? Grade II* Statutory Listed

ON ENGLISH HERITAGE “AT RISK” REGISTER

Photograph with kind permission from Janet McNamara

Group Value? No Conservation Grand Union Canal & Boston Area? Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area Description: EH Listing Description: Former church. Tower C15 altered C19; body of church 1764 by Thomas Hardwicke (old list); south aisle and north vestry added C19; interior re-done 1889 (Pevsner p.28); 1970s restoration work. Tower of Kentish rag with ashlar dressing; body of church of brown brick in Flemish bond with ashlar dressings; Welsh slate roofs. 3-stage west tower; 3-bay aisled nave with 1-bay chancel, all in one, having additional south aisle, north vestry and small sanctuary. Tower: plinth; diagonal buttresses with offsets, and quoins to 2nd and 3rd stages; chamfered offsets between stages. Vice at north-east angle is octagonal on plan, becoming circular at top stage, with chamfered doorway at base and slit windows. West side of tower has round-arched C19 board door with decora- tive hinges in architrave, with C15 window above of 3 cusped lights in 2-centre- arched opening. Rectangular opening to 2nd stage on west and north sides, south side masked by C18 work. A louvred 2-centred-arched belfry window to north, west and south sides. Cornice below embattled parapet. Nave and chancel: north side: chancel bay slightly set back and partly masked by added gabled vestry. Bays defined by giant pilasters with stone imposts supporting round arches; each bay has a blind segmental-arched window below taller round- arched window which has late C20 tracery, copying original, of 2 arched lights with circle over. Ashlar coping. South side masked by aisle addition, but has upper windows as before. At west end on north side are steps up to double door of 8 raised and fielded panels in ashlar architrave with pulvinated frieze and cornice; the top step is inscribed "to the vault of George Cooper". Sanctuary east window blocked. Interior: pointed tower arch of several orders, the central hollow-moulded order supported by short columns with moulded capitals. Body of church has late C19 wooden round-arched arcades, the columns octagonal and having moulded bases and acanthus leaf capitals; clerestory windows of tripled round-arched lights; braced queen-post roof trusses with inner columns supporting round arch. Chancel has wooden screens either side, with 2 tiers of round-arched arcades, on slender columns below and twisted columns above. At west end of nave a wall monument to Thomas Hardwicke, architect, d.1829, and other members of family; one south wall a circular monument with drapes to Rev William Coome, 1810 by Coade and Sealy; other

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memorials removed. In tower, tombstone of Dame Mary, widow of Sir Edward Spencer, d.1658, with 2 heart-shaped coats of arms. Other good monuments have been removed (see photos in National Monuments Record). EH “At Risk” Description: Former C15 church tower, nave 1764 by Thomas Hardwick. Victorian additions. Empty since 1960s and stripped of fittings. Urgent repairs to the medieval tower were carried out; building since neglected but weathertight. Proposals for waterside development, including the church, have stalled. Condition of the building is deteriorating.

Score against Local Heritage Listing Selection Criteria:

Assessment not required – already nationally listed and on EH “At Risk Register”. Other information: Closed for services late 1950s and parish amalgamated with St Pauls. Building used for storage and as a saleroom when ideas of use as a dinner and theatre club came to nothing. Some memorials are in the Museum of London and some are known to be missing from 1950s lists. Parts of the first James Clitherow’s (died 1682) memorial is in a garden wall in Highgate and the coat of arms in Australia. The war memorial which used to be at St Lawrence’s was moved to the garden of Brentford Library.

Sept 2013 – Planning permission applied for the church to be converted into a gym .

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Methodist Church, Clifden Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction 1963 Date/Period Already Locally Listed Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Brief Description: Built 1963 and thought to be a good example of its type. Some stained glass from the previous Victorian building is incorporated into the 60s building.

Other information:

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St Paul’s Church, St Pauls Road, Brentford

Original Use Church

Current Use Church

Construction Original Date/Period building designed by F&H Francis dates from 1867. Spire is 1869. Extended by Michael Blee,1992..

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: The original building designed by F&H Francis dates from 1867. Spire is 1869. The foundation stone was laid by Princess Mary Adelaide Duchess of Teck. It’s built of Kentish ragstone and was damaged by bombing during WW2. Repairs in 1953 were by M Farey. In 1992 it was refurbished, the roof lowered and a new Church built to the north. Design was by Michael Blee who also designed the post war All Saints in Isleworth. It has an RIBA Award and was commended by the Civic Trust.

Other information: .

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Section ‘K’: Schools (in alphabetical order, for reference)

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Nursery School in Half Acre (Brentford Day Nursery), Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Nursery

Construction 1893 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed as 33-37 Half Acre

Group Yes Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value?

Brief Description: Built as National School 1893 to replace a girl’s school built in 1840s. 300 pupils with infants on the ground floor and girls on the 1st floor. Lavatories were at the back of the playground. Closed 1931 after the opening of Brentford Secondary Modern School (now Brentford School for Girls). Was a Youth Club for many years and now a pre-school nursery.

Other information: .

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Nursery in The Ham, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Nursery

Construction 1895 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed as New Brentford High School

Photograph by Janet McNamara

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: The Ham Schoolroom: Built 1895 as New Brentford School for boys. Later National School. Plaque down alley, on right of the building, shows land given in 1815 by the Clitherows of Boston House for building the first school. Used for canal children in 1950s.

Other information: .

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St Georges School, Green Dragon Lane, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Community Centre

Construction 1893 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Built 1893 for children in Old Brentford. Closed when Green Dragon School opened. Now a community centre.

Other information:

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St Georges Schoolroom, 367 High Street, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use Derelict

Construction 1786 Date/Period

Already Grade II Listed? Listed as “St George’s Church Hall”

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: EH Listing for St George’s Church Hall: 1786. Brown brick. Hipped old tile roof. 1-storey. Oblong plan with 6 sash windows. Front at right angles to road. First school of Mrs Tristram founder of Green School Movement.

Other information: Originally built as Sunday School for Sarah Trimmer, wife of a local businessman and a leading educationalist of her time. Plaque reads: “The Church School Instituted in the year 1786. For Religious Instruction and Industry Supported by annual Subscriptions and Benefactions and the produce of the Childrens Work”

Sept 2013 – In poor state of neglect

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St Paul’s School, St Paul’s Road, Brentford

Original Use School

Current Use School

Construction 1873 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Opened in 1873 replacing Brentford Central Ragged School in New Spring Gardens that had provided free education from 1867. It was extended 1893 and 1899, and then again the last 10 years.

Other information: Sept 2013 – Fire gutted the building in August 2013. Building works are currently being undertaken to refurbish the building

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Section ‘L’: Pubs (in alphabetical order, for reference)

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Albany Arms, Albany Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1900 Date/Period Possible early Nowell Parr?

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Built by the Royal Brewery, Brentford in 1900. Stained glass windows inside.

Other information: .

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The Beehive, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1907 Date/Period Designed by Nowell Parr

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area

Brief Description: Designed by TH Nowell Parr and AE Kates in 1907 when it became the corner building of the Half Acre when it was widened for tram lines to Hanwell. Beehive-shaped turret, art nouveau glass, with blue-green Doulton glazed tiles, the pub occupies a prominent position in the High Street. An art nouveau grate in the fireplace is the only feature of note inside. A good example of a pub by the surveyor of Brentford from the 1890s, Thomas Henry Nowel Parr. Described in ‘Buildings of England’ as a ‘notable landmark… a small but confident corner pub of much character’. Named after the Beehive brewery founded in the area by the Gomm family in 1840. Early 20c was advertising that this was a suitable place for ladies to lunch.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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The Brewery Tap, Catherine Wheel Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1928 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal and Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Building of character first mentioned in 1888 directories. Raised above road level to avoid flooding during high tides. 1928 by C.E. Mallows a well known “arts and crafts” architect. Vernacular style with mock timber framed interior. Local landmark and good candidate for listing. (English Heritage 2000)

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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Former Bricklayers Arms, Ealing Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1853 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: First recorded 1853. 1960s and 70s was a jazz pub used by The Temperance Seven for rehearsals. Appears as The Flying Swan in Robert Rankin’s novels. Converted to houses in 2009.

Other information: .

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Coach & Horses Public House, 183 London Rd, Isleworth Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 17th Century Date/Period

Already Listed? Grade II Statutory Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Syon Park Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: EH Listing: C18 with later alterations. Stock brick. 2 parallel pitched roofs. Parapet. 3 storeys. Front elevation has bay window at 1st floor level. 3 windows, have brick arcading at 1st and 2nd floor level. 2 windows on the right hand ground floor elevation have timber mullions and transom - probably C19. 2 semi-circular windows with square sash windows between. Modern glazed porch to right. Orange glazed tiles on ground floor. Mentioned by Charles Dickens in "Oliver Twist".

Other information: According to Gillian Clegg’s “Brentford & Chiswick Pubs”, it actually dates back to the 17th Century and is the only coaching inn to remain in Brentford & Chiswick. The bay window at the front allowed travellers waiting for coaches to watch for their approach in either direction. Mentioned in Charles Dickens’ Oliver Twist, as the place where the cart put down Bill Sykes and Oliver on their way to commit a burglary in Chertsey. “They held their course at this rate, until they had passed Hyde Park Corner, and were on their way to Kensington: when Sikes relaxed his pace, until an empty cart which was at some little distance behind, came up. Seeing ‘Hounslow’ written on it, he asked the driver with as much civility as he could assume, if he would give them a lift as far as Isleworth. As they passed the different mile-stones, Oliver wondered, more and more, where his companion meant to take him. Kensington, Hammersmith, Chiswick, Kew Bridge, Brentford, were all passed; and yet they went on as steadily as if they had only just begun their journey. At length, they came to a public-house called the Coach and Horses; a little way beyond which, another road appeared to run off. And here, the cart stopped. Sikes waited until he had fairly gone; and then, telling Oliver he might look about him if he wanted, once again led him onward on his journey." Also mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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Duke of York (also known as the New England PH), Corner of Brook Lane Nth / Great West Road /York Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Vacant

Construction 1898 Date/Period Extended by Nowell Parr and Son

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Original building on York Rd in Victorian gothic style with turret. Extension on Great West Rd in Neo-Georgian or ‘Road House’ style. According to source “RIBApix” the pub was extended by local architects Nowell Parr and Son.

Pub has been derelict for some time. In 2010 a man was found hanged behind the bar.

2013 - Pub is still vacant and waiting redevelopment.

Other information: SEPT 2013 – UNDER THREAT FROM DEMOLITION

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The Express, Kew Bridge Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1860s Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group No Conservation Area? Kew Bridge Conservation Area Value?

Brief Description: Building thought to date from the 1860s. Trading seems to have started in the forecourt that developed in to Brentford Market. Plaque commemorating the Trafalgar Despatch unveiled August 2009. The pub was just across the road from the Q Theatre which functioned between 1924 and 1956. Actors such as Dirk Bogarde and Kenneth More would often drop in after performances and Charles Hawtrey was sometimes persuaded to play the piano in the bar.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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The Globe, Windmill Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: First appears in 1888 directory. Fuller Smith & Turner acquired it in 1908. Large globe on the roof above the corner door.

Other information: SEPT 2013 – Building works currently in progress on a sign on the roof

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The Griffin, Brook Road South, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1883 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Fuller Smith & Turner pub since 1883. Served as the first club house and changing room for the football club.

Brentford Football Ground is the only one in the UK with a pub on each four corners and this is one of them.

Other information: .

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The Kings Arms, Boston Manor Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1840 with Date/Period 1930s additions

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation St Paul’s Conservation Area Area?

Brief Description: On this site by at least 1840. Altered and extended in the 1930s.

Other information: .

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Magpie & Crown, 128, High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Original building Date/Period 1614, rebuilt in late 1920s / early 1930s? Possible connection with Nowell Parr

Already Listed? No

Group Value? No Conservation Thames Policy Area Area?

Brief Description: The Pye’ is recorded in 1614. Magpie & Crown by 1722. Rebuilt and for some reason set back from the building line 1920s/30s(?) Believed by one historical source to be designed by Nowell Parr.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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The Lord Nelson, Enfield Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Reconstructed Date/Period in 1927

Already No Listed?

Group No Conservation Area? No Value?

Brief Description: Originally a beerhouse that belonged to Fuller Smith & Turner. Reconstructed in 1927. It seems there was also a Lord Nelson in the High Street near St Lawrence’s Church.

Other information: .

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The New Inn, New Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1853 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: In existence by at least 1853.

Brentford is the only football ground in the UK with a pub on each four corners and this is one of them.

Other information: .

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The Northumberland Arms (now O’Briens), 11 London Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1853 Date/Period

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “11 London Road”

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: A pub since at least 1853. Now O’Briens. On right hand side of building you can see evidence of where the building was attached to the old railway bridge which crossed the London Rd. Numbers 1-11 London Road were locally listed with it, but these have been demolished and redeveloped.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948. Then known as “The Duke of Northumberland”

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O’Riordans, 3 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: First in directory in 1888 as The Royal Tar. At other times known as The Yacht, and Captain Morgans. Interesting cast iron pillars at corners of the windows. These can be seen on houses in Hamilton and Whitestile Roads.

Other information: .Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Brentford Pubs, 1948

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Pottery Arms, 25 Clayponds Lane, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888, Date/Period rebuilt 1921/2 Designed by Nowell Parr

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: First named in 1888. Rebuilt 1921/2 to Nowell Parr design. Study of site done by Chiswick Library local studies in 2009 when it had been closed for some time. Redevelopment started 2012.

Other information: .Sept 2013 – Currently being redeveloped into flats

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The Princess Royal, Ealing Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Rebuilt Date/Period 1921 Designed by Nowell Parr

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Originally built in 1841. Nowell Parr designed rebuild in 1921.

Brentford is the only football ground in the UK with a pub on each four corners and this is one of them.

Other information: .

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Former Rising Sun Pub (Now Fat Boys Restaurant), 68-69 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Restaurant

Construction c18th Century Date/Period

Already Locally Listed Listed? as number 68

Group No Conservation Area? St Paul’s Conservation Area Value? Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Licensed by 1763 as the Rising Sun. Aquired by Fuller Smith & Turner in 1908. Closed in 1959 and for some time was an antique shop and art gallery. Now Fat Boys Thai restaurant.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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The Royal Horse Guardsman, Ealing Road, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1888 Date/Period although remodelled at a later date

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: In a directory from 1888 and originally a dominant corner building with small cottages along Albany and Ealing Roads on either side. The roof line of the neighbouring cottage can be seen on the end wall in Ealing Road. Attractive glass and mosaic tiled doorway. 2012 seems to have reverted to its original name of the Horseguardsman.

Other information: .

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Royal Oak, 38 New Rd, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction 1894 Date/Period

Already No Listed?

Group Value? No Conservation Area? No

Brief Description: Licensed by 1894. Possibly rebuilt 1920s?

Brentford is the only football ground in the UK with a pub on each four corners and this is one of them.

Other information: .

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Six Bells, 148 High Street, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Rebuilt Date/Period 1904

Already Locally Listed? Listed

Group Value? No Conservation Area? Grand Union Canal and Boston Manor Conservation Area Thames Policy Area

Brief Description: Licensed by at least 1722. Fuller Smith & Turner from 1815. Rebuilt in 1904. Named because of the six bells that were in the church that were rung for special occasions and when Royalty travelled through the High Street.

Other information: . Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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Waterman’s Arms, Ferry Lane, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Rebuilt th Date/Period 20 century Designed by Nowell Parr

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “1-3 Ferry Lane”

Group Yes Conservation Area? Thames Policy Area Value?

Brief Description: In existence since 1751. Rebuilt in 20th century. Remnants of an earlier building c.1790 can be seen on the exterior flank wall; the front is Edwardian and is almost certainly by Thomas Henry Nowell Parr: Mock Tudor above the ground floor with his hall mark, Doulton glazed tiles and Art nouveau glass in the windows on the ground floor. Interior not inspected.

Other information: Mentioned in Alfred Pearce’s poem of Fifty Pubs on Brentford’s High Street, 1948.

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The Weir (previously The White Horse), Market Place, Brentford

Original Use Pub

Current Use Pub

Construction Original Date/Period building 1603 with later additions

Already Locally Listed? Listed as “White Horse”

Group Value? Yes Conservation Area? Butts Conservation Area

Brief Description: There’s mention of this as The White Horse as early as 1603. A rebuild and the addition of the tiles on the outside walls would seem to be about the same date as other pubs in the town. Originally the PH was just the corner building (with the Doulton tiles) but incorporated the Victorian house next door in the 1980s. An earlier house on this site had been the home of William Marshall who gave a home to his nephew Joseph Mallord William Turner when he was about 10years old.

Some reports suggest that at one time the building was refurbished by local architect/surveyor Nowell Parr, hence his trademark Doulton Tiles outside the building.

Other information: .

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