Memoirs of Don Juan Van Halen Comprising the Narrative of His

M EMOI RS

D O N J U AN VAN H AL E N ;

COM PRISING T HE

NARRATIVE OF HIS IMPRISONMENT

I N T H E

D UNGEONS OF T HE IN! UISIT ION

AT A I M D R D ,

AND OF HIS E CAPE HIS J U NEY TO U IA S , O R R SS , HIS CAMPAIGN WITH THE ARMY OF THE CAUCA U S S,

- - 4 0. 6 0.

N AN R I T ED ITED , FROM THE ORIGINAL SPA ISH M USC P .

8 1 ru e Arrm- o “ o r

” D ON ESTEBAN AND SAND OVAL.

SECO D ED ITIO N N,

W I T H A L T E R A T I O N S A N D A D D I T I O N S.

I N T WO VO LU M E S.

VOL. II .

i vy 9- 1

A p p

3 a

0 D 0 0 HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY

' NE W BUR L INGT ON su inm

1830. ‘ 3 “ t v? xx

Y ’ J u i l / 0 1. : 3. 0 l a n “ f 232223

l TI L L/ m g A 3 RA W

LOND ON

S s

’ ‘ b y to . ’ - o n isnf i u u s J on on s co unt m ar sn nnr. j , s , N AR R AT I V E

D ON J UAN VAN HALE N.

CHAPTE R I .

— T he a uthor resolv es on entering the Russi an servi ce His i ntervi ew — wi th some g entlemen of the Russian leg ati on i n London D on — Fermi n Tenet M r. Bludoﬂ The Author em ar s for Ham b k ,

— — Berlin Spani sh Settlers Arrival in the Prussia n capital—V isi t

u n llor raf secretar of the Russi an Em a ss —The eu to Co se K t, y b y

thor qui ts Berlin in comlaany wi th Secreta ry Koch.

TH E resolution I had formed of pursuing i n so e remote co untr the career of a rms in which m y ,

I had een ro u ht u na tur ll led me to ﬁx b b g p, a y m e es on ussia who se forces were not likel y y R , y to come i nto conta ct with tho se o f ain and Sp , whose monarch by far the mo st enlig htened o f

v o n. 11. n 2 NAR RATIVE or

continenta l kin s was univ ersall res the g , y pected

fo r the modera tion with which he used hi s n u

l mi ted o wer and for he li eral v i ew e i p , t b s b di s

n r played in the i te nal policy of his empire. Under thi s fa v ourable impression I ﬁnally decided upon

ussia co mmunica tin m intentio n o f imme R , g y dia tely proceedi ng thither to a wo rthy co untryman

of mine with whom was intima tel connected I y ,

a nd to a ani sh anker D on ermin a stet Sp b , F T ,

lo n esta lished in ondon a nd who se hou I g b L , se

d h en l m fr uente . ese t e en the ﬁrst to whom eq T g ,

lo sed m resolution manifested the u I di sc y , tmost

s r ri se a t hea rin it es ecia ll whe he re u p g , p y n t y ﬂected on the slender founda tions upon which my

ho es were fo un d m h de . heir s a th o wev er p T y p y, , being excited by the conﬁdence I placed in the

success of m underta kin the an ker wh for y g , b , o many yea rs ha d been entrusted with the pecuniary

nt ests of the ussi an em ass in n land i er R b y E g ,

' er hi s inﬂuen e in m o o ﬂered to ex t c y fa v ur. Thi s

a ccom li shed and t e resul he effectually p , h t of his friendly interference soon stimula ted me to perse v ere in my plan and I wa s inv ited to v isit one of

the entlemen of the ussia n le a i n wh f g R g to , o rom the ﬁrs t shewed a liv ely i nterest in my future destin hintin in the most delicate y, g ma nner, that

m ecent misfortunes an y r , d the resolution I had

ado ted excited hi s dee est interest and ro p , p , p D ON J U N VA H L A N A EN. 3 mi sing to furnish me wi th letters of introduction to his friends of tha t ca ital and o f B rli n p e . On the follo wing day he presented me to the secreta ry ' o f the em a ss M r. Bludoﬁ a t tha t time har é b y, , C g ’ ' Aﬂa ires fro m whom wa s to o ta in h d , I b t e mo st es sentia l re ui site fo r m o urne na mel the q y j y , y,

a ss ort a nd who recei v ed me wi h th p p , t e sa me

' a ﬂa bili t a s m introductor ha d done a dv i sin e y y , g m to pro cure a s many letters of recommenda tion a s I

o ssi l co uld tha t I ht be etter a p b y , mig b ble to o bta in a dmissio n into the Russian serv ice ; beca use

the m eror o win to the num erless etitio ns E p , g b p tha t had been presented to him in Fra nce and

German ha d ust i ssued a n uka se decla rin tha t y, j , g he wo uld receiv e no mo re fo reig n ofﬁcers into his

army .

m er 1 1 ha d ust co mmenced a nd Nov e b ( 8 8) j , soon the na v ig a tion of the Baltic would be en

slender means re uired tha t ti tely clo sed . My q I should proceed to Petersburg h by sea ; but the last v essel fo r Rig a ha v ing sa iled from the Tha mes

on he 18th lo st the ortunit o f sa ilin t , I Opp y g , owing to a dela y tha t occurred in the deli v ery o f

the a ss o rt occa si ned so me o sta cles which p p , o by b were sta rted by the Spa nish a mba ssa dor to prev ent

m de a rture y p . On the 2otb of the sa me month I fo und a tthe house o f the ba nker the pa ssport and sev eral letters B 2 4 N A R RA T I VE o r

o f recommenda ti on a nd I ma de the necessa r , y pre

r pa ra tions fo my depa rture.

hese once co ncluded fo und m self ma ster T , I y

of a as s o rt ten letters o f introductio n a urse p p , , p

wi th sca rcel sixt o unds in it and a o rt y y p , p tea u of clo thes more ﬁ t fo r the dra wi ng - room tha n

o tr v ellin uch were the slender mea ns wi h f r a g . S t whi ch I reso lv ed to meet the rig o ur of a clima te like tha to f ussi a a nd to underta ke a o urne R , j y by land so lon a nd a i ful to seek m fortunes , g p n , y a mo ng a peo ple o f who se cha ra cter I was to tally i nora nt no twithsta ndin the v a rio us ac cou s g , g nt I had rea d res ectin them a nd the info rma i n p g , t o I was indebted for to the fri end o f the ba nk er but to o v er ala nce these i nco nv eniences ha d ood b , I g heal th a etter resolution and the mo st san uine , b , g hopes of success.

n e24th of o v em er sailed fro m Gra v es O th N b , I end o n bo a rd a n Eng li sh merchant v essel bo und fo r a m ur h which la ce we rea ched three d H b g , p a ys

after. ﬁrst ca re on la ndin wa s to My , g , re

air to the ho use o f the ussia n con sul- eneral p R g ,

ro ff fo r whom ha d a letter o i M r. St , I f ntrod uc tio n a nd who recei v ed me v er kindl inv itin , y y , g me to i sit him fre uentl durin m sta a t V q y , g y y f Ha mburg h . The rest o my reco mmenda tions were fo r some mercha nts residin there from g , whom likewise met a ood rece tion but who I g p , V D ON J U AN A N H ALE N . 5

éo uld be o f li ttle o r no servi ce to a mili ta ry

man .

a rl n the da o f m de arture r v E y o y y p , I ecei ed fro m the Russi an consul my pa ssport a nd some

letters o f i ntroductio n, wi th hi s mo st sincere

wi shes fo r the success o f m o urne The ro ad y j y .

fro m a m ur h to Berlin wa s so dismal the dili H b g ,

en ce so excessiv el i nco nv enient the inn g y , s so

wretched a nd the co m a n ev er where i n , p y y so

’ ‘ ferior tha t fo und no lea sure in a n thin ha , I p y g t t

ca me wi thin m no ti ce In a in the y . Sp g enera lly ba d but there i s a certa in cheerful

ness whic h ha s een ustl descri r , b j y bed by Ce

v antes. No t so in those which a re met on the ro ad to Berlin : ev ery thing ‘ i s dull beyon d ex ressio n hou e landlo rds do s furni t re ever p ; s s, , g , u , y

thing reminds o ne o f All Souls day inSpa in . Along the hig h ro ad a re s een a g rea t number Of houses inhabited by Spania rds; who had a ecom pani ed ‘ La Romana in his expedition with Berna dotte in 1806 a nd who ha v in remai ned in the , , g ho s ital af erwa ds a rri and esta lished p s, t r m ed b e ishin w themselv s in that co untry . W g to kno if they remembered their c o untry a nd their ban

ners ut the uestion to one who a eared still , I p q pp

to v i v cit . He answere reta in his na ti v e a y d ,

” that he had more rea son to remember the a ceursed

sur n who was the ca useof his remai nin be g eo , g 6 NA RRA T IVE o r bi nd ee in him in the ho s ital till it was too , by k p g p

s comr d es He ha d two children l te to oin hi a . a j , who spoke both Spani sh a nd German v ery

l o n ﬂuent a wh ac ted as m i ter reters. y, nd y p

The coun r wa a rtia ll cov ered with snow t y s p y , a nd the uninterrupted dulness of the a tmo sphere increased the tedi umof the o urne till a tlen th j y, g ,

to wards the close of the second da the as ect y, p

f the countr chan ed and a s we dv nced o y g ; a a , I ea sily percei v ed tha t we were a pproa ching the

e residence of the Fred rick8. Our intolera ble

rria e entered Berlin a o ut noon a t its usual ca g b , slo w pa ce ; and once my lug g ag e a nd pa ssport

- exa i ned the custom h use . and olice o fﬁ cers m by o p ,

roc eded to the hotel of the Go lden An el I p e g ,

where I ha d been recommended to a li g ht. Hav ing a letter of i ntro duction for Co unsello r

aft the s cretar o f the ussian em a ss a t Kr , e y R b y

erlin resented m self to him a nd met with B , I p y ,

e kindest r ion He i nv ited me to dine th ecept .

with him and Mr. och on the follo wi n da K g y , a n i nv ita tion which I a ccepted with pleasure ;

d ein informed of nthe o ect of m ourne a n b g bj y j y, and of the kind of introductions I ha d fo r

v me a most a ccurate idea St. eters ur h he a e P b g , g a nd inﬂuence of ea ch of the character, sentiments,

To sa of the perma s for whom I had letters. y

e ru h his i nformation wa s such as rea tl to th t t , g y O V D N J UA N AN H ALE N . 7 damp my hopes and on weig hing the numberless

inconv eniences I ha d to encounter, I ca me to the sudden resolution of proceeding to Vi enna to meet

the m ror Alexander who wa s on hi s wa E pe , y

thith fro Aix- la - ha elle and to resent m er m C p , p y

self to him in order to ascertain a t once the ro , p

r M r. ba ble consequence of my ente prise. Kraft

id no t at all a ro v e of thi s on the contrar d pp ; y, persuaded tha t my orig inal plan was by fa r the

est he exh rted me to ersev ere in it and en b , o p , tered into a full expla na tion of the method of

co h un r nducting such a ffairs as mine in is co t y .

found a t ﬁrst si ht in o unsellor rafta sort I , g , C K

of di loma tic frankness which althou h studied p , , g , was such as an emig rant would be g lad often to

e wi in H di scours ho wev er th i . i e m et soc ety s , , produced in me a deg ree o f irresolution which for eanwhile some time was unconquera ble. M , I

i si v l r h f no tice in Berlin i n v ted e ery p a ce wo t y o ,

t e com an o f some of m friends and s ent h p y y , p

much of m time in readi n - roo where I had y a g m,

een resented on of he me ers A b p by e t mb .

forei ner a nd articula rl one in m circum g , p y y

sta nces ﬁ nds thi s extensiv e an d ea utiful cit , b y

dev o id of all interest from the a sence of so cial , b

in erco urse whi ch ev en a mon the inha ita nts is t , g b

h therefore wa s the but contracted. T e thea tre, , only resource of which I no w and then a v ailed 8 NA RRA TIV E o r

lf thou h meat o f m ev enin s were s ent myse , g y g p

ouse o f an o ld russian eneral to who m a tthe h P g ,

had een i ntroduced a a ni sh friend who I b by Sp , wi th myself formed hi s usua l party .

i wi h raf h i the da d ned t M r. t e ntro On y I K ,

ed me to Mr. och the secretar of the c nsul duc K , y o

enera l o f a m ur h whom ha d not seen dur g H b g , I i ng my residence there. Thi s g entleman who ha d o ta ined lea v e to re a ir to iv oni a hi s na ti v e b p L , countr s oke durin dinner of his o urne a nd y, p g j y,

he un lea sa ntness Of tr v ellin alo ne ro of t p a g . F m the tenor of hi s conv ersa tion it wa s ea sy fo r me to discov er the g ood intention o f hi s fri end in this intro duction and the delica c he o served in hi s , y b

wi sh to o li e me. o wn ho wev er o li ed b g My , , b g n f i me to ta ke no o tice o th s hi nt, a conduct which

I percei v ed excited the surpri se o f M r. Kra ft.

n h follo win da when ca ll ed u on him a s O t e g y , I p usual he told me i n a o inted ma nner tha t hi s , p , fri end wa s a nxio us I sho uld a ccept the v acant sea t in hi s ca rri a g e ; tha t the expenses o f po sts were ' J the sa me a nd tha t such an offer, fa r from o ﬂend in me o u ht to be co nsidered me a s a tender g , g by o f friendshi fro m a ma n who ha v i n hea rd he p , , g t a dv entures of m life felt interested in m future y , y welfa re a nd who wo uld defer his ourne a s lo n , j y g

a s i t sui ted me. a v i n said thi s he conduc H g , ted me to the house of hi s fri end who re ea ted the , p 9 D ON J UAN VAN HA LE N. . ,

. ' Offer he had ma de to me thro u h Mi t s raf . A g . K I co uld no t con sider i tin any o ther lig ht thm as

’ a ro of o f hi s kind re a rd fo r me ac ce ted it p g , I p , ma nifesting the plea sure I felta this pro posa l ; and ha v i ng no mo tiv e to defer my depa rture from

Berlin lac ed m lf , I p yse entirely a t hi s. dis

The g o o d sta te o f my wa rdrobe in some mea sure co n cealed my rea l si tua tion ; but when o nce

eca me the tra v ellin co m a nio n o f a no ther i t I b g p ,

co uld no tfa il to b so I wa e on Observ ed . t s a bo ut

the mi ddle o f ecem er a nd wa s o in to n u D b , I g g derta k e a jo urney unpro v ided wi th the fur clo thing which ev ery respecta ble perso n wea rs in tho se

li t n l mfo t c ma es, o ess fo r co rt han fa shio n . As

h l in ri a e f hi o Mr. oc did not tra v e a ca r o s wn K g , tho se who a rea cqua inted with the o pen a nd incon

v ni nt v hicle u d in o s in o n t ro o e e e se p t g he ad t St.

eters u r h a nd who mo reo v er kno w the ri ours P b g , , , g o f a no rthern clima te fro m ecem er forwa rd D b , will b e a ble to fo rm a tolera ble idea o f the inco n v s w i enience tha t a a ted me, a nd which I co uld not a v o id fo r rea so ns no t v ery difﬁcult to be

g uessed . Our depa rture too k pla ce on the 18th o f Decem

ber when left the ho tel o f the Golden An el , I g , surpri sed a t the modera te bill o f the ho nest Gust

B 3 10 NARRA TI VE or

f f ma nn, who , I thi nk, had he not been a raid o wo undin m delicac would no t hav e resented g y y, p me with an and who as he bid me fa rewell y , , , la mented my not endea v o uri ng to g ain admission into the ru i rv ice P ss an se . D ON J U V AN AN R ALRN. 11

’

CHAPT ER II.

— tion—Road to M emel—Curische Huh - Memel A Muscovite

— — a cro ss the Ice of the River D wi na Rig a Industry of the la dies — urn — J o ey to St. Petersburgh Intemperance—Apathy of the sarﬁ — — of Liv oni a Wa tched inns The a uthor ta kes leav e of M r.

Koch a t D orpa t.

’ o l rnin WE leftBerlin a t elev en c ock in the mo g ,

h ein extremel fo and the ro und the wea t er b g y g g y , g

l v red wit sno w From the ﬁrst m partial y co e h . y m io n o serv ed m sli ht clothin tra v elli ng co pan b y g g , the o nly articles of my wi nter d ress consi sting o f a a ir o f r t a nd lov es a nd o f p fu red boo s g , a

S a ni sh cloa k which ein the same tha t m p , , b g y friends o f Ma drid furnished me with on the nig ht of m esca e was so much worn a s to be o f l ttle y p , i

o r no use. Thi s a ttire in Russia was no less sin 12 NAR R A T I VE o r

la r h i s ﬂi ci nt i s i n w v to u t a n n u e . h ho e er g W g , , c fr M r och m r l w a n a f w o ncea l om . ea ts nd ollo K y , i n the exa m le Of a ro ud a stilia n a ssured g p p C , I him tha t I wa s so a ccusto med to this cloa k a s to sta nd in no need o f wa rmer clo thi n and tha t g , , tho u h a a nia rd and o rn in a wa rm clima te g Sp , b , I wa s a s ca pa ble o f resi sting the rig o ur o f a northern f o ne a s a na ti v e himsel .

We tra v elled the whole da y a lo ng a ro a d mo re frequented a nd less mo no to no us tha n tha to f Ham

ur h a nd rea ched to wa rds ni ht a o st- ho use b g , , g , p , where we met with the Russia n suite o f the E m

- ress mo ther who wa s to lea v e Berli n fo r St. p ,

eters ur h o n the follo win da a nd for who m P b g g y ,

It w s wi h the mo st o f the ho rses were eng a g ed . a t

rea test difﬁ ult therefo re tha t we succeeded g c y, , in o tainin fresh ho rses and no t till a fter mid b g ,

n ht tha t we were ena led to ro ceed tho u h ig b p , g

' ur always a t the mercy o f o phleg ma tic postilions.

o wa rds ev enin we a rriv ed a C lm on the T g t u ,

a nks of the wide Vi stula the wa ers o f which b , t

ein nea rl fro en o v er rev ented our fa rther b g y z , p

ro ress tha t ni ht which we s ent a t a n inn a t p g g , p

no g rea tdista nce from the riv er.

At rea k o f da we left the i nn a nd whilst the b y , po stilio n underto o k to see the ca rri a g e sa fely

la nded on the o site ba nk s Of the Vistula we Opp , committed o urselv es to the ca re o f so me barg e 1 D ON J UAN VAN R ALE N . 3

’ men who after stru lin for three ua rters of , , g g g q a n ho ur a ai nst the ﬂo a ti n ice succeeded in g g ,

I hi r of rus ia effectin the a ssa e. n t s a t s g p g p P , fo rmerl elo n in to olan d the a ttenda nce a t y b g g P , th e po st- ho uses a nd a t the inns was much im p ro v ed ; so tha t ou the ﬁfth da y o f o ur departure

fro B li w r ed o i s r w m er n e ea ch n e here M r. , K g b g ,

r Koch, desiro us tha t I sho uld fo m so me idea o f

the la r e cities throu h which we a ssed ro g g p , p

osed s r a rious ca uses ha d hi he p a ho t sta y . V t rto p rev ented me fro m ta king a ny no tes o f my jo ur ney b ut the exa mple o f my excellent co mpa nio n

i nduced me to e in m ourna l here witho ut b g y j ,

which i t i s ro a le sho uld ha v e tra v elled o n p b b I , eng ro ssed wi th the reﬂectio ns pro duced by the m future fa te a nd with a s much i ncertitude of y ,

m n ea u i ndifference a s my po rt a t .

i f o ni s er i s situa ted on the The c ty o K g b g ,

‘ ri h a ft a nd cOv ers a co n bo rders o f the F sc e H ,

sidera ble extent of unequa l g ro und . It co nta ins

etween sixt a nd sev ent tho usa nd i nha ita nts b y y b ,

a nd its commerce co nsi sts chieﬂ o f hem o t y p, p

a sh wood a nd ra in ex o rted fro m ol d , g , p P a n .

Its a rriso n i s in m ini on much to o sma l f r g , y Op , l O

such a larg e a nd importa nt pla ce. The pa la ce o f

the rand ma ster o f the euto nic o rder w o g T , h

fo rmerl resided here still exi sts tho u h in a y , , g

v er ne lected sta te. M r. och a nd m self y g K y , 14. N ARRATIVE o r

were condnoted by a respectable Prussian v eteran

the rea t eutonic to wer from whi to g T , ch the

whole i a nd its env i rons a re seen d tless c ty , oub

ff rdin in summer a ma niﬁ ent cou - J a i l a o g , , g c p o u this sea son and es ecia ll on the da th g h a t , p y y

v i i i we could see no thin but a n exten we s ted t, g

v e she t Of sno w cov eri n the round the trees si e , g g , ,

were i t no t and the roofs of the ho uses. Indeed, that the charac ter o f my compan ion wa s superior

to an nd o i l o k sho uld ha v e y ki f pra ctca j es, I thoug httha thi s intention in taking me there wa s

to ut m res sta nce a ai nst the cold and p to trial y i g , punish me for ha v ing boa sted o f being immr v io ns to the winter a tmo sphere o f a northern m li ma . r och shewed e c r m hetower M . te F o t , K

the roa ds to emel and ilsit oth o f which a re M T , b in the di rection of Russi a ; b ut the wea ther wa s too ha zy to allo w my fo rming a correct idea of

the ad cho ice ma de M r. och in roceedin b by K , p g

n o ur urne tha t o f emel o jo y by M .

e left oni s er thi rt - six hours af er o r W K g b g , y t u

a rri v al the emel roa d which i s certainl , by M , y

deserv ing of no ti ce. I nev er inquired the whim

och in t si cal motiv e of Mr. K preferring it to tha

Of ils t whi ch sho uld ha v e een lad to T i , by I b g

roceed to see the memora le la ce where the p , b p

un r wa s i desti ny Of my co t y dec ded . From oni er to emel the roa d i s formed on a K g sb g M ,

’ 16 NA R R A TI VR OF

chan e o f horses with whi ch we roce ded o n O r g , p e u jo urney thro ug h tha t sea o f sa nd, a t the sa me

’ sn l a c a s e e ai s p e b for . When we disting uished the lig htho use o f Memel, we ha iled i ts g limmering as co rdially a s mig htsea men On a - stormy nig ht; and ha v ing a t a bo ut ten ’ o clo ck a rri v ed a t the a nks o f the riv er emel , b M , where he n neck o f la d termina ted we t sa dy n ,

~ c ro ssed o v er in . a boa t to the port,a nd spent the

‘ ni t a t an hotel he la n lord f which wa s no t g h , t j d j o q uite so mo dera te in hi s charg es ~ a s the honest

ll e w e here e d th Gustma nn the i , er e t i b w , pr s n e w fo r o ur eds a nd a rea kfa t far exceedi that b b s , ng

' which the la tter made o ut fo r the whole time Of

r i en e a i my es d c t Berl n .

arl in the mornin e started with the a me E y g w , s trai n o f ho rses a nd po stilio ns a s o n the previous

A e d hro u h da . s w a sse t the to n we o serv ed y p g w , b tha t the streets were to lera l str a t e b y aig ht, nd h

‘ “ ho uses re ula rl uilt the eat a r et- a ce g y b g r m k pl , whi ch i s a t o ne extremit o f the to wn w v r y , as e y cro wded a t the time we dro e t o u h v hr g . On the o utskirts o f the to wn are a g rea t n umber o f sa wing mills the woo d ein enerall ro u ht fro , b g g y b g m Po la nd a nd Li thua ni a by the Da ng a a nd the Memel

’ the neig hbo uring stra nds were cro wded with ﬁ shera men em lo ed in collectin a m er fo r Whic it , p y g b , h w h n the se n T w a s t e a so . he ea ther wa s brig ht a nd D ON JUA N VA N H A LE N . 17

' e rene and the roa d a s le s nt s i ha d een s , p a a a t b di sa reea le on the fo rmer da g b y .

Nimmersa tz wa s the la st rela y o r po st- ho use

in russia where we chan e hor s hen we P g d se . W

a rriv ed a t the ussia n a rri er we were detai ned R b , b u t a v ery short time : the co mma ndi ng Ofﬁcer Of

’ h e s io n h in ken a few words wi M t ta t a v s o th r. , g p

K och a v e orders o a o ssa ck o a ccom an u , g t C t p y s

a s fa r a s Pa lan en whi c i s the ﬁrst v illa e Of g , h g w R ussia a long thi s ro a d . Here e ali g hted a t the

c usto m- ho use where o ur lu a e underwent a , g g g

slig ht exa mina tio n a nd where the police- o ffi cer

w rote do wn m name m ro fessio n an d the y , y p , o bject of my journey ; an informa tio n whi ch was

to be immedi tel s s to a ent o t St. eters ur h y by p P b g , a nd which wo uld rea ch tha t ca pital ev en befo re w e sho uld ha v e proc eeded half wa y on o ur roa d. The circumstan ce o f my tra v elling in the co mpany

o f a n i ndiv idua l holdin a u lic situa tio n v er g p b , y much lessened the ma ny forma lities to which a

forei ner i s su ect on the ussia n fro n iers g bj R t . On leav ing the o fﬁce we were a ssa iled by a

num er o f Jewish co achmen who offered to ta ke b ,

us to i a sho r o u M r ch t rne s but . o R g by j y ; K , who knew the inco nv eniences resulting from thi s

mode o f tra v ellin ai d no a ttentio n to them a nd g , p , we proceeded to the ca rriag e tha t wa s wa iting for

us a t the o sthouse when we left the v illa e p , g 18 NARRAT IVE o r

Pala ng en which is inhabited by Poli sh Ca tholics and Jews a nd is the onl lace elon in t , y p b g g o Sc mog itia which is met with in proceeding to wards the interior ; the next di stri ct, which commences withi n a short di sta nce o f that illa e ein h t V g , b g t a

o of C urla nd .

As the wea ther wa s v er ﬁne we tra v elled n y , o wi thout sto i n an where d urin the whole da pp g y g y , a nd towards ev ening reached a post- ho use wi th v ora ious a e i i in o wev er to v id c ttes. sh h a o pp W g , , s endin the ni ht a t such a wretched hov el we p g g , obta ined a chang e o f ho rses by dint o f ﬂa ttering the master o f it an o ld German a nd a in him , , p y g i f ll us n u the unrea sona ble bill be presented to . Althoug h it wa s now to wards the end Of D e cam er the wea r w s b , the a so tha t I much do ubt whether it wa s warmer in the south of uro e a circumsta nce b no means E p , y

n we common in this clima te. In proportio as a dv anced the rela s were etter t d , y b a t en ed ; and I wa s much struck with the fra g ra nce emitted by the ine forests of o urla nd which ordered ch p C , b ea

side of the ro ad. owards the clo se o f the da T y ,

we reached the last po st- ho use before co ming to

Mi tta u the ma s er of which wa s a o un o ur , t y g C land Oﬁ cer who ha d ustretired fro m the im erial , j p

serv ice a nd who wa s sli htl a c uainted with , g y q

r . M . Koch D ON J U AN VA N HALE N . 19

’ A t ten clock a t ni ht we enter i n O g ed M tte , and a li hted a t the ho tel o f the a le w g E g . Thi s a s the ﬁrst nig ht we beg an to experience the rig ours of

M itta u the ancient ca i ta l of the d , p uchy of Co urla nd is fa r from ei n a o ulous w , b g p p to n. M o st o f the ho uses are constructed O w f ood, and the rema inder o f rick the streets a re re ula r b ; g , a n v er clea n The a la ce o f d y . p the ancient dukes i s seen j ust a tthe entrance of the to wn on the ro ad to i a a nd i s the same in whi R g , ch the royal

r s o f ra nce resi e g ant F d d .

We left Mitta u a t noon on the follo wi n da g y . The fro sts which efore o ur , b a rri v al there had

alread co mmenced roduced thei r ordi y , p na ry ef

ects the riv ers la kes and ev er sh o f f , , , y eet wa ter

alf- wa being frozen ov er. H y from that city to

i a we crossed the ri v er Gmssbach o v er a rid R g , b g e

to which in 1812 the adv anced troo s of a , , p N po

a v in contrar to our custom sto ed some H g , y , pp ’ time a t one Of the o st- ho uses itwa s elev en o clock p ,

a t ni ht when we ca me to the a nks o the D wi g b f na ,

whi ch the ac co unts we had receiv ed from v , by ari

o us tra v ellers we had een led to eliev e wa s still , b b

na v i a le but the frosts had een so sev ere tha t g b ; b , we found thi s broa d riv er ccmﬂetely blocked up b the ice and we were the ﬁrst who crossed its y , 20 NARRA TIVE o r

e The o stili on who seemed a s fro zen surfa c . p

u s the fellow On the rev i o us willing to serv e s a , p ni ht had een ea er to serv e himself ffered to g , b g , O ta ke us o v er i n the carri a g e without incurring a ny

ri sk an d ha v rn trusted o urselv es to hi s skill we , g ,

en tered tha t im o si n sheet o f ice the rilli anc p g , b y o f which w a s rendered do ubly da zzling by the re ’ ﬂection Of the moo n ; an d, a fter ha lf a n ho ur s

incertitude we succeeded in rea chin the o o site , g pp

s o f i a w so li r tha t n . he s reet ere so ta ba k T t R g y, we lo st much time a nd pa tience in ﬁnding some

la ce where to s end the ni ht: a t len th we met p p g g ,

wi th a lo dg ing a t a n inferior ho tel . T We remai ned two da ys a t Rig a . he ﬁrst

thin o serv ed n oin o ut o f the inn wa s a g I b , i g g ,

monument i n the middle of the s ua re o n the q , pedestal o f which i s an inscriptio n bo th in Russian

a nd rench transmitti n to o sterit the tri um h F , g p y p o f the fo rmer Ov er the E urop ea n coa li tion,when i ts independence wa s threa tened ; and I rema rked tha t no exception wa s ma de in fa v our o f a na tio n

w i ch wa s ev en a t tha t time stru lin fo r its h , , g g g

o wn i ndependence .

The wea ther thou h co ld wa s clear a nd , g , , I proceeded to exa mine the pa rt o f the ri v er o v er which we ha d cro ssed a t midnig ht; but the ice

wa s no w so thick tha t the riv r wa s literall a , e y l u lic wa lk on which sled es carria g ee o w p b , g , D ON J UAN VAN H ALE N . 21

rs w re idl mov ska te e ra in to and fro . In , p y g sum

m r thi s ri v er s crowded wi h es el e , i t v s s o f a ll na tions.

The citadel of i a 18 ﬁ n l R g e y situa ted .

i a did no t seem to me a v r R g e y cheerful city .

M r o ch in o rder to co m ensa te fo r the wa nt o f . K , p

so ciet ro osed o ur oin to the thea tre o f y, p p g g ,

‘ w h e v me a mo st rilli a nt des ri t hic h g a e b c p ion .

On ur re a irin thither wa s so much di sa o p g , I p pointed bo th wi th the a ppea ra nce a nd size o f the

ho use tha t could no t hel rema rkin the sa me , I p g

to o ch who ha v i n seen oo d d l f M . a ea o r K , , g g

the wo rld wa s a stra n er to tha t na tiona l fa na , g

ti ci sm so common to men who ha v e nev er tra v elled

f h ir Own co H e la u ed o utO t e untr . h a nd sai d y g , tha t I sho uld nev ertheless ﬁ nd ca use fo r a muse

r no soon r ment, a nd it wa s ev en so ; fo e ha d the

ladi es o f i a occ u i ed thei r sea ts in the o xes R g p b ,

than I fa ncied myself in so me work - roo m ; ev ery on e o f themb usily employing herself i n knitting

s ockin s a la bo ur which the erformed with t g , y p

f h n his wa s t me a ma zing dexterity O a d . T o a more no v el a nd a musing specta cle than the perfo r

u der t nd ma nce, which I did no t n s a . ’ h As M r. Koch s j o urney wa s to termina te alf

w w n a ete ur h he n a d a et ee i a nd St. rs e e y b R g P b g , g g

a tra v ellin v ehicle whi ch tho u h o en wa s g , , g p , more co mfo rtable tha n tho se furni shed by the po st

ho uses a nd t e dri v er o f w ich a reed to re ulate , h h g g 22 NA R RA TIVE OF

’ ur his days journeys a ccordi ng to o ur pleasure. O coa chman wa s as cheerful a nd activ e a s we had hitherto found most of our po stili o ns dull and

hle ma ti c a nd sho uld ha v e een lad to hav e p g , I b g he ca ital which i s a o ut ﬁv e ha d hi s serv ices to t p , b

Alo n the hundred an d sixty werste fro m Rig a . g

throu h iv onia a re found a t short hig h road g L ,

ﬁlth u lic- ho uses called i n the coun di stances, y p b ,

kha rteha ma s efo re the doors o f which a re try , , b usually seen a multitude o f wretched ca rts and

lon in to the ea sa nts who are so sledg es be g g p ,

i cted to ra nd a nd stro n li uors g reatly add b y g q , tha tthey spend who le ho urs in tho se pla ces with o ut a in the least re a rd to their horses which p y g g , they lea v e thus exposed to the inclemency of the wea her a nd which wi th themselv es elon to the t , b g

n no lemen o f he u r othin g entleme or b t co nt y . N g pro v es so much the sta te Of barbarism in which these men a re sunk a s the m nn r n which he , a e i t y receiv ed the decree i ssued a bo ut thi s time by the

Em ero r Alexander for artl eman i a in me p , p y c p t g so

f e i v o ia o th n n serfs. hese sa v a es unwillin L T g , g to de end u o n their o wn exertions fo r su ort p p pp , ma de all the resista nce in their po wer to oppo se the decree the execution o whi w n h , f ch a s a t le g t

entrusted to an a rmed force. We spent ﬁ v e days in going from Rig a to or a t i n the v icinit o f which h a mil Of m D p , y t e f y y

24 NAR RATIVE o r

no t been oblig ed immedi a tely to join hi s o rph

sisters o f whom he wa s the o nl su o rt the , y pp ,

term ranted him fo r this v i sit ein but short g b g ,

w ld h e a cco m a nied he o u av p me to the ca pita l .

As i t wa s fo reseein the inconv eni ences tha t , g

a wa ited me, he endea v oured in so me mea sure to

o v ia te them dra wi n u a v er minute itine b , by g p y

ra ry from D orpa t to St. Petersburg h whi ch I still preserv e a s a memo rial o f hi s fri endly conduct

’ to wards me a nd roc uri n me a emlle de , by p g f

aste an indi s ensa le re ui site to roceed on m p , p b q p y

H e al so a v e me all the i nfo rma tion he j ourney . g

o s ed res ectin the ca ita l a nd a s he was p sse s p g p ; , a ware tha t I could no t spea k a sing le word of

ussia n he ta u htme a few hra ses to reli ev e the R , g p , pantomimic duties upon which I sho uld be oblig ed

to enter. 25 no n J UAN v a n HALE N .

CHAPTER III .

— — Russia n post- vehi cles and postili ons Accidn t The author pro ceeds throug h the snows in a sledg e—His arriv al at Naw e—Ap — — D r. Elb ert Interview wi th Prince Wolkonsky Baron Rall — — Festiv al of the Epiphany Blessing the Frozen Neva General — — Betancourt Visi t to Romansow M . Zea Bermuda arrives on a

P r h— haracter of Prin ce Andrew missi on to St. etersbu g C Gali t — — zen Hospi tali ty and g enerosity of the Russians The author ission into the Russian serv i peti tions Alexander ﬁn adm ce.

I w s s no w to underta ke my jo urney alone in a so rt o f ost- cart called in the countr tele a re p y g , sembling a box witho ut a lid placed upon two

‘ co arsel made wooden a xles su orted y , pp by fo ur wheels and dra wn two v er n a ll rou h onies , by y g p .

M ortmantea u ein la ced across the ca rt y p b g p ,

I too k ' m sea t on it whilst the ostilion seated y , p o n a oard in the fro nt of the ca rt uided the b , g

horses which were most wretchedl ha rnessed . , y We left Dorpa t a t the real post pace ; butmy

VOL . II . C. 26 NAR RAT IVE o r

on uctor who had a out a s much intellect a s his c d , b

ho rses a id a s little attention a s the to the dirce , p y s tion he wa s to follo w , a nd we tra v elled o n to wa rd

i witho utm erceiv in hi s mi sta ke until we R g a y p g , ca me to a rustic tri umphal arch which ha d been prepa red fo r the expected a rri v al o f the Empress

r To con Mo ther a t so me dista nce from Do pa t.

ed all the R us v i nce him o f this mi sta ke, I exha ust sia n phra ses I ha d lea rned fro m my friend ; but

he seemed to understa nd m si ns etter a nd y g b ,

k he o si dire ion too t o pp te ct . Hi therto there ha d been no fa lls o f sno w d uring o ur j o urney in Russia ; buto n the mo rning of my

de a rture fro m or a t the ea rth wa s co v ered p D p , The wi i sed . th it, a nd a s we a dv a nced it ncrea

co untr therefore o ffered to me no o ect whi ch y , , bj

mi ht en a e m a ttention a nd a s I could not g g g y ,

ma ke m self understood m o stilio ns the time y by y p , h d a ssed o hea v il I a een a dv i sed M r. p n y . b by Koch to urg e these men fo rwa rd by besto wing o n

them a few co er ieces which in a n o ther pp p , y country i n E uro pe wo uld ha v e been thro w n in my

f ce but which were recei v ed the u i n s a , by R ss a po tilions with the mo st extra v ag a nt demo nstra tions

of ra i m f e hrew th t tude. ndeed so e o th g I , m t em ‘ selv es on the ro und a nd em raced m knees g , b y ,

‘ while the cra ckin o f their w hi s a nd the v elo g p ,

cit of their ho rses conﬁrmed the sincere o the y , j y y f l e t. V D ON JUAN A N H ALE N. 27

Thi s kind o f encoura ement on m " art how ; g y p ,

v h ni h een o f r s u e er a d se iou conse ence to me. , g b q

We ha d a ssed the rea t la ke of Pel o us on p g p ,

which a num er of ﬁshermen ha v e their dwellin s b g ,

and ea rn their subsi stence, when w e rea ched the

v illa e o f cha udle where a s a t the fo rmer o st g S y , , p

ho uses I resen ted m license and wa s immedi , p y ,

l w ho r e a te y furni shed ith a teleg a and s s. Percei v ing tha t my new po stilion wa s well i n

lin o c ed to serv e me, I ma de the usual offer, and n sooner were we o ut of the v illag e than he set his

horses a t full allo ra shl ur in their s eed g p, y g g p

when he o u ht to ha v e checked i t till a t len th g , g

the ho rses beca me unrul a nd he lo sin his co m y , g

mand ov er them the sli ht tele a w a s da shed to , g g

ieces and I wa s thro wn to a rea t distance p , g , striking my chest a g a inst a la rg e stone ; whilst

the o stilion still holdi n to the fo re- wheels wa s p , g ,

dra ed o v er the sn w for a considera le di stance g g o b , without my being able to a fford him a ny a ssist

an A l l in m ort' ce. fter much tro u e and eav b , g y p mantea u on the ro a d returned to the ost- house , I p , where I wa s immedia tely surro unded by sev era l

eo le who mi i o me a ll exce t wha t I p p , a d n stered t p rea ll wanted but v nl endeav o ured to ex lai n . y , ai y p

” As the mo tio n of a po st- ca rt co uld no t fail to be un lea sa nt a s lon I he effects of m fa ll p g a s felt t y , and a s round the snow wa s so thick on the g , I

c 2 28 NAR R AT IVE o r

ked fo r a sled e a nd a fter considera le as g , , b tro u

le succeeded in makin them understa nd the oh b , g

wi s clo thi n w s r inl no j cet o f hes. My g a ce ta y t the

t ada ted fo r this mode o f tra v elli n a nd in a bes p g , clim te too the sev erit of which eca me re er a , y b g a t a s I a dv anced ; butpersua ded tha t the dang er o f being drag g ed on thro ug h the sno w in a sledg e a t

ra id ra te co uld no t be rea t with m usua l i a p g , y a ducements I stimula ted the conductors to hasten

o rward anxio us o nl to reach the la ce of m f , y p y

stina tion and unmindful o f the a in in m de , p y

hest which I thou ht would ha v e no seri u c , g o s re

s In fo ur and went ho r sult . t y urs afte my depar ro m v ture f or a t I rea ched ar a . D p , N

On enterin the cit a tes a cor oral a sked fo g y g , p r m ass ort and soon a fter a n o fﬁcer ca me o y p p , f r

w rd o seein the sta te in which I wa s a d a , wh , g , vi sed

i n rench to take so me re o se a t a n ho tel he me, F , p mentione a nd desired the ostilion o condu d, p t ct

e t it r surin me he w m h he , as g o uld ta ke ca re I sho uld receiv e my pa ssport sig ned by the proper

authorit . a v i n a rri v ed a t the ho tel the land y H g , lord ndin tha t I could no t ma ke m self n , ﬁ g y u der

sto sentfor a entlema n who like most eo le od, g , , p p

of his cl s n ssia o ke nch a n rm a s i Ru , sp Fre d Ge an

v er ﬂuentl a nd who wa s ood eno u h to k y y, g g eep m com an a n a ct a s m i e r l e r t r. t o u p y, d y nt p e e A h g h

I fo nd c est m ch uised a d swollen and u my h u br n , V D ON J U AN AN H AL E N . 29 w a s recommended immedim to p rocure medical a dvice a s soo n a s m ass o rt wa s ro u ht to me , y p p b g , I decla red my intention of proceedi ng on my jour

ne ein unwilli n to ma ke an sta a t a rv a . y, b g g y y N My o blig ing in terpreter then hired a carriag e for me ro erl s i h achma n o f which , p p y Ru s an t e co eng a g ed to ca rry me to St. Petersburg h i n four

and twent ho urs a t a ri ce extremel moderate. y , p y Thi s kind of carri ag e i s so larg e tha t one may

tra v el i n i t a t full len th . The coa chman stand g , in u driv es three ho rses a rea st the reins ein g p, b , b g sus ended to a wo oden a rc ri sin a out two p h, g b feeta bov e the neck o f the mid le horse a nd su d , p

t sha f i F rom the ported by he ts of the ca rr ag e. arch ha n s - a lar e ell which i s an indi s en sa le g g b , p b

ca rria The appenda g e to a R ussia n tra v elli ng g e. cha rac ter o f - the coa chman a nd po stili ons i s uni ' u o u the em ire a nd oﬂers fo rmly cheerful thro g h t p , a striking contra st to tho se of G emia ny. My

t nductor follo wi n the di rections iv en presen co , g g la c d in h rri m inter reter e . t e ca a e a him by y p , p g

i ; ma ttra ss which I h red from! the la ndlord , tha t

I mig ht tra v el more c omforta bly; a nd to wa rds the

of h sa me ed on m o urn clo se t e a roceed e . d y , I p y j y

On lea v in a rv a we descended a stee bill g N , p , a t the foo to f which meanders the riv er Na ro us sk who se orders a re cele ra ted in the life o f y , b b

s I . of wede ein the theatre Cha rle XI S n, as b g 30 NAR RATI VE or

where the g rea test part of the essa ys o f reg ular

wa rfare were made whi ch g a v e ri se to the org aniza - v ro mNarv a tio n of the g ig antic a rmies o f Russia . F to the ca pital I perceiv ed a prog ressi v e improv e

ent i t e ula tio n in the a ttendance on m n h pop ,

the ro a d in he ro s e ts of the co untr d, an t p p c y

« hmen a nd j ust a t the time promi sed by the coa c , we a rri v ed a t the numerous co untry ho uses which border ea ch side of the roa d a bout a leag ue fnom

the c apita l.

On a rriv i n a t the a tes a cor oral desired me g g , p

to a li ht tha t I mi ht s ea k wi th t e o ﬁ cer on g , g p h

ua rd who seein m indis sitio n made ma g , , g y po , ny

olo ies and e d t a wo uld i media tel ap g , b gg e h t I m y

r turn t the c rria e o which be a co m a d e o a g , t c p nie

me a t the sa me time mentionin the formaliti es ; , g

w s to o rv e wi th res ect to the olice and I a bse p p ,

thing s Yo u come fro m co untri es where any

ectable ers n tra v els witho ut a serv ant nd reap p o , a is ev ery where well recei v ed ; but here the masters of the hotels will think it strange tha t yo u sho uld

come una te ed a nd f I ha d one o f m rv t nd , i y se ants

here a tha nd I wo uld with le sure lend hi m to , p a , ” ” o u th o mi ht v o d the disa r a n y , a t y u g a i g ee ble i ” v con eniences which I fear yo u will experience. With this I was pa rtly acqua inted from what

o h ha i n f he fﬁc t o Mr. K c d mento ed o t di ul y f ﬁnd

32 N AR R AT IVE o r

n me a nd constituted himself m su er to wait o , y p

a li tle a ware of the reduced state of m i ntend nt, t y

ﬁnances .

e da s fter m a rriv a l the inﬂa mma tion Thre y a y ,

in subdued re a red to ma ke a salutar re be g , I p p y fo rm in the numero us retinue with which the

dlord ad su lied me a nd to v isit serv icea ble la n h pp , I tho se person s whom it wa s a bsolutely necessa ry

hould see to ro duce the desired chan e in m s , p g y present desola te situa ti on o manso w an ancient erson The Co unt o f R , p

f the co urt o unt olti o w a eneral ag e o ; C S k , g , e v i w had ﬁ ured in a for retired fro m th ser ce, ho g ’ wo ro ther To ur ueniew and mer epoch ; the t b s g ,

D r. Elisen, all three counsellors o f sta te ; Gene ral Betancourt a a niard irth ir ctor of , Sp by b , d e the rid es nd ro a ds of the em ire a d en o n b g a p , n j yi g the fa v o r of the m narch the ankers i v u o ; b L io , a nd the Baron Rail, with sev eral o ther i ndiv iduals

f less no te w r t ose for who m I had ro u h o , e e h b g t le r of i te s eco n M r. r t mmenda to . aft the secre r . K , ta r of em a ss a t erl n ha d oi o u o y b y B i , p nted t t me tho se who were mo re likely to fo rwa rd the o bject of my jo urney ; but the mag niﬁcent a ppea ra nce of their ho uses the li ttle r s t ai i , e pec p d n that co un

The oun est of these entlem in im y g g en, be g plica ted in the late

‘ lot was sentenced to dea th but a wardi n to ublic rum r w p , , , g p ou , as fortunate enoug h to escape to Scotland. no t! JUAN VAN HALE N. as tr to one dressed as a ri v ate tleman and y. p g en , w itho ut decora tio ns, and the recent rebukes I had

ex erienced a t the hotels - ev er thin contri p , y g

uted to in imidate me Still a a i r umstances b t . , s y ci c admitted of no dela endea v o ured fro m the y, I , moment o f m recov er to dev ise h es m ns y y, t e b t ea t o i o bta n my obj ect. The Emperor Alexa nder had j ust arriv ed from

Germa n and e wh le o f the im eri al famil y, th o p y wa s to a ssemble a t St Petersburg h a t the begin nin o f the e r o e ra te a s usual the solemn g y a , t cel b , ,

f o f i . r E i n to sho w esti v a l the han D . l se Ep p y , the esteem be entertained for the person who ha d recommended me to him a v e a s lendid dinner g p , to whi ch he inv ited sev eral persons to who m he wi sh d to n an d who mi htbe of ser e i troduce me, g v i e i n forw r in m v i ews for the com letio n c a d g y , p

m udentl nxio of whi ch I wa s i pr y a us. Da zzled by the g ood recepti on I met with from

he f w ons had seen a nd ur ed on no less t e pers I , g

m o wn im atience than the adv ice o f an by y p , by indiv idual who wa s erha s as i norant a s m self , , p p , g y

hese ers a few da s a fter m rri v a l a t on t matt , y y a

eters ur h I unsea sona l resented m self St. P b g b y p y a t the ala c of rince olkonsk ma or- enera l p e P W y , j g of the m eror who no sooner ascertained the E p , o ect o f m v isit than a ru tl interru tin me bj y , , b p y p g , he sa id turnin hi s ack on me It canno tbe hi s , g b , ; 84s NARRA 'rrv R on imperial majesty do es no t receiv e any more foreig n ers i nto his serv ice ; there are a lrea dy too many in ” his did no t admit o f farther a r his a rmy . T g u ment, a nd I stood fo r a moment in the utmo st con fusio i nora nt t a t accor in to the eti ue te o f n, g h , d g q t

he co urt I had deserv ed the trea tment I ex eri t , p

m e to the h I w s ha a s anced . On y r turn otel, a r s ed

the most inf l reﬂections which I did not by pa u ,

v to im rt to an o m a c u i ntan e en dare pa y f y q a ces,

d inc h dicul a frai of urri ng t eir ri e.

aro n R ail who no twithsta ndin his na tu al B , , g r erit of cha rac ter a nd his incessa nt mercan asp y ,

ile o cc u a ti ons ha d receiv ed me in the mo st t p ,

o s i le manner ki ndl resented me to his h p tab , y p fa mil i n whose societ I endea v o ured to for y, y g et the unpleasa nt check I ha d recei v ed ; a nd

e i in m in erco urse with them that the l arn ng , y t , I baron ha d inﬂuential friends in Sweden, tried

o int r st hi m i n m fa v o ur tha t I mi ht o tain t e e y , g b

h l o such a passport a nd pro ceed to Sto ck o m. T ridiculo us extremes i s he dri ven, who ha s no t s i n n ufﬁc e teXperie ce o f the g rea t wo rld .

As the a con o f m a a rtments wa s o b l y y p ppo , site the alac e I ha d ﬁne v iew o f the o r e u p , a g g o s

o m dis la ed on t e s i v l o f the i p p p y h fe t a Ep phany, when more than fo rty tho usand men o f the im

eri al ua rd ed o f f r h ala e is fes p g ﬁl f be o e t e p c . Th tiv al consists in lessin the fro en wa ters o f b g , z O J U v D N AN a n HALE N. 35 the majesti c Nev a ; for whic h purpose a small wo den tem le richl orna mented is re d in o p , y , e cte the middle o f the ri ver, to whi ch the whole of the im erial famil ro ceed “ on foot follo wed b p y p , y ' h r n ero us court an t e h o t ei um , d h c oir f sing ers ’ ‘ the m eror s cha el whose harmonious of E p p , canticles a re by fa r more ini pressiv e and better calcula ted to i nspire o ne wi th religio us v enera tio n than any other kind of music . On the pro

“ blesses the waters, or ra ther the solid mass of ice whi ch the Nov a resents an n whi h the p , d o c

m t eir ev olutio n turni n wa rds o e fo r h s, re g a fter t th pala ce in the same order o f procession . If an unprejudiced spec ta tor ca nno t help smili ng a tthe

u e sti tion o serv ed a t thi s festiv al his a dmira ~ s p r b , ti on must be equally excited a t the impo sing

r f h m ri a l uard on this da a ppea ance o t e i pe g y . A more brilli a nt re union of tr00ps ca nno tbe ex hibited by a ny Euro pea n natio n. As I ha d no t yet presented myself to Co unt w Ro ma nso , nor to General Beta nco urt, who possessed g rea ter inﬂuence tha n any o f the g en tlemen I had hitherto seen, I resolv ed to v i sit

m wi h a ll the them. The la tter receiv ed e t cor

The Greek ritual does not permit in strumenta l music in the tem les i p of those who profess tha trelig on. 36 n a nna rrv n o r

dialit o a tr o untr man and in a v er y f ue c y , y ' diﬂerent manner fro m wha t I ha d been l ed to expectby perso ns who were not friendly to him. hi s ener l who had been a c ua inted with m T g a , q y fa ther a t Madrid prev ious to his bani shment in

180 ca sed the olitical misrule of Godo 7, u by p y; a nd whilst he held the post of intenda nt of a

ro v ince wa s uch a mused wi th m a ccount p , m y o f the reception I ha d met with fro m Prince

willin o r f lse ex e Walkonsky . Un g t aise a p cta ti ons he did no hold out ho es tha t mi ht ha v e , t p g ca used me an disa ointment altho u h from y pp , g the ﬁrst he enterta ined the intention o f exerting hi s inﬂuence in m fa v o ur a s will be seen here y , r a fte . General Beta nco urt wa s g rea tly distin

uished the m ero r fo r his ta lents a nd for g by E p ,

the ro it of his cha ra cter. Hi s meri ts ho w p b y , ev er did no t fa il to excite he ea lo us n , t j y a d ani mo sit of some o f the env io us co urti ers who y , , t o u h o werful a nd influential co uld nev h g p , er prev ail on the Emperor to depri v e him of the hi h o st he so deserv edl fil g p y led . Ha v ing been a dv ised by Betanco urt to lo se no time in v i siti the o un t of Roma nso w w ng C , ho w f a s a riend o f his, I ha stened to hi s ho use, where on a rri vin in o e o f the a nte- ro I , g n oms, too k o ff m rea t coa t to the extreme sur ri se y g , p of the numero us serv a nts who filled the ha ll, 8 n on J U AN v a n B AL E N . 7 a nd who seemed to entertain so much contempt

r m forei dress tha t fo und the rea test fo y g n , I g difﬁculty in prev a iling o n them to a nno unce me.

At la st I w s c ndu ed to a lar e salo on and a o ct g , ,

‘ after w aitin a lo n time sa w a v er old man g g , y enter a cco m a ni ed ano ther erso n who re , p by p

a i e s n h w f Th m n d ta ndi g t e ho le time o my v isit. e count, who se ma nners were tho se of a conﬂict, inv i ted me to a sea t and ta ki n a no ther near me , g ,

held a si nall silv er trum et to his ea r ahd lis p , tened attenti v ely to my sho rt disco urse ; when he

re li ed sometimes in a v er lo w tone ' of v mce p , y ,

a nd so metimes ho llo wi n a ccom an in his g , p y g speech with a number of g rima ces ; put my letter i n his po cket witho ut rea ding it; ma de me a num ber o f ﬁ ne pro mi ses ; a nd here beg a n and ended all the fa v ours I ev er receiv ed fro m thi s si ng ular

ersona e who ro a l tho u ht no more o f me. p g , p b b y g After spending ' two weeks in the expensiv e lo dg ing which I was compelled to accept in the

o el of uro e the la ndlord informed me tha t h t E p ,

he ex ted a forei ner o f im orta nce for whom pec g p ,

wi to re are tha t a artment a nd he he shed p p p ,

ed me to remo v e to o ne a d oinin i t which beg g j g ,

m cir um es I ladl wa s better suited to y c sta nc . g y

a cceded to his wishes witho ut h a v in the te , g

mo test idea o f who my neig hbour wa s to be. Thi s turned o ut to be no o ther tha n the Spani sh “ m n xnra n v n or

minister leni otentia r Zea Berinudez with his p p y, ,

o wn a t I w no t uc leased secreta ries. I th as m h p

wi this discov er and m ﬁrst im ulse wa s to th y, y p leav e the ho tel ; but the fear of no t bei ng a ble to ‘ meet the landlord s bill ma de me aband on thi s

Ba ro n all had three sons wi h whom I was R , t in habits of i ntimac a nd who feelin a liv el y , , g y interest for m destin contri v ed a n i ntervi ew y y,

‘ betweenmyself a nd a n ai d- de c o f the Empe ro r a frie d of their whomthe inv ited to rea k , n s, y b

a mis fa st at their ho use . On this occasion my p st fo rtunes formed the principal topic of conv ersa tio n.

he ai d- e- ca m who wa s the oun rince T d p, y g p ,

An drew Ga litzin soon ev inced fo r me the wa rmest interest, and a desire to be useful to me ; but nu fo rtuna tely he had ev en less experience a nd cir ums ection than m self ualities indi s ensa le c p y , q p b for ose who li vin under the ilded ro ofs o f a th , g g

ala ce seek the f v o ur o f a monarch. H s ood p , a i g intentions ho wever were ri ed m as , , p z by e hi hl a s the deserv ed a nd the more so as I g y y , was conv ince h w d o difﬁcultit i s, ev en in such a

' mero nu us co urt a s tha t of St. eters ur h to meet P b g , with me n who should feel interested for . o ne who ha d suffered for oliti cal o inions so ra rel lis p p , y tened to co urt ers If he f i . t re did t by , ore, I no

' ﬁnd in Prince Galitzin tha t support whi ch he so

40 n a n na n v n o r

a nu er of ersons of no te who loa ded mb p , me

wi h fa v urs a nd m ks of ri ds i I t o a r f en h p, sho uld ﬁnd the g rea test pleasure in deta ili ng the num bcrless beneﬁts conferred on me with the utmost

delica c fro m the ﬁ rst moment of m a rri v al a t y, y

e ers ur h. St. P t b g

The ﬁrst c are of m friends who sus ected y , p

he rea l sta te of m circ um nc s wa s to dis t y sta e , encumber me from the debt I ha d contracted in

e hotel where ha d n li v n s x w eks. th , I bee i g i e

Co unt M ca me one da into m room nd y y , a i told me tha t h s friend M r. Ska ratin, whom I

l knew ein on the oi t i o ff sca rce y , b g p n of sett ng

fo r hi s esta te e o nd osco w where hi s famil b y M , y

then resided offered me an a artment i n his , p

ma nsion a t St. eters ur a nd the ne essar P b g h, c y

attenda nce. To refuse such a n o ffer a s thi s in my present situa tion wo uld ha v e been absurd ; I

erefore ac ce ted it with lea sure and on the th p p ,

win d follo g a y remo v ed to the ho use o f Mr.

hers tin where his steward resented me the S , p

serf destined for m serv ice w om I fo und y , h

uall fa i hful an a tiv e hu ﬁft da s e t d tten . s q y T , y y

a fter m a rriv al a t St. eters ur h wa s fur y P b g , I nished with ma g niﬁcent a pa rtments i n a house a oundin with ev er comfo rt with serv a nts b g y ,

wa s a t m call free a ccess to the ta le a nd al y y , b society of more than thirty families of distino D ON J UAN v AN HALE N . 4 ]

i n a nd the e ui a es o f some of m frien s to , q p g y d

o uch n a t my entire disp sal . S u bounded hospi en ta lity needs no comm t. Bei ng a dv i sed to address a petiti on to the Em eror the o o rtunit for ha v in i t resented t p , pp y g p a leng th a rriv ed ; but I was g rea tly puzzled ho w to express myself in such a ma nner as not to ‘

eli e m sentiments a nd et sa no thin b y , y y g that

mi ht be considered a s offensiv e the a utocr g by a t.

I this dilemma one of the ersona es who wa s n , p g in con stant a ttendance a t the ala ce a nd who wa s p , ’ well a cquainted with the Emperor s opinions nu

rtoo k e ta sk o f writin fo m I sh l de th g it r e. al here insert the ﬁrstlines of the etition tha t the p , rea der may see the tolerance with whi ch the chi ef (as he may be j ustly called) o f the a ffa irs of

uro e recei v ed a t this eriod o inions which E p , p , p a re deemed by o ther so v ereig ns as treasonable.

u m S ,

After ex eriencin durin ﬁ v e months the p g , g , mo st horrible trea tment in the dung eo ns of the . m ru a nd fana ti fa c i ui si ion fro a. c el cal ton Inq t ,

I h the ood fortune to esca e thro u h the a d g p , g

v m ll interv entio n o f Di v i ne Pro idence. Co pe ed

f m m nativ e co untr and ha v in lo st to ﬂy ro y y, g a ll exce t m hono ur and the esteem of m , p y y co untr men rotecto rs a nd enefa ctors who y , p , b , 42 N ARR AT IVE o r

procured me the mean s no t only of ev ading the

i strict searches of m ersecuto rs b ut of ta kin y p , g ‘ sa nctua ry a t the foo t o f your Majesty s imperi a l ’ throne I humbl entrea t our a est s ro , y y M j y p

After a sli ht sketc h o f m militar career g y y , the petition termina ted with beg g ing hi s ma jesty to g ran tme an ho no ura ble place in the rank s

‘ ‘ o f his arm in which it wa s m wish to serv e y, y until other ev ents mig ht one day permitmy return

o u r to my c nt y . I pla ced this petiti on in the hands of a priv y counsello r o f the m ero r cha r ed with receivin E p , g g all the ex ositions addres o is ma est and p sed t h j y , there it rema ined as if i thad sunk to the bo ttom V 48 D ON J UAN AN n A L s N .

A CH PTER IV .

— Petersburg h Pala ces Mili tary pr i de—The — — square of Ica s e Sta tue of Peter the Grea t—Shops Imperial — v f — Bank Church and con ento St. Alexander Nsv ahy The choir

— — Waxen imag e of Peter the Grea t M anners and customs “ — — M ilitary g enius The Carnival The Russian mountains g ames — of Tra mk diesela —H ussars of the g ua rd Improvement in the — — Russian army Triumphal arch Napoleon and Alexander — Rcmarkable relig ious M au ls Ca thedral of our La dy of Kasan — ! 0M g s of eg g s - « Return of swing Visitto Cmnstadt- c — r f th nav Interestin anecdote. scription of this po t, and o e y g

Wa rns'r my affair rema ins dorma nt in the

the m eror I will mak e ha nds of E p , a few obser v tions on the ca it l a d its inha it nt a p a n b a s. i St. Petersburg h i s embell shed with a multi

tude f alaces. The ﬁrst of these built o p , by eter the re t i s situa te in a u lic ro P G a , d p b p node cal ed the summe den one o f its , l r g ar , 4 4 N A R RAT IVE o r

o st remarka le o ects its ex uisite ta ste m b bj , by q a nd workma nshi ei n the immense ratin o n p, b g g g

v ed o f the side Of the Ne a . An a necdote is rela t a n n li shma n who ha v in left n la nd to v isi t E g , , g E g this ca ital ha d no sooner arriv ed efore this p , b

alace and a dmi red the ra tin for a co nsider p , g g a le time tha n he immedia tel re- em a rked to b , y b return ho me sa i n tha t i t was useless to o to , y g g fa rther ex nc re inin a n ime there a s pe e by ma g y t , i t wa s impo ssible he co uld see any thing mo re

The a la ce i n which the im erial fa mil re p , p y

ided durin m sta here i s ca lled the wi n ter s g y y ,

a la ce nd i s o n lin wi h h lendid uild p , a a e t t e sp b i n ran g of the Admiralty . It ha s a quad g ular form a nd i s i hl o rna mented the rinci a l , r c y , p p ’ fa a de loo kin to wa rds the la ce d Armes and c g P ,

the o ther on the Nev a . It co mmuni ca tes with a sma ller a la ce called ermi e b p , the H ta g , y means of a a ller construc ed o v e archwa g y t r a n y , th o u h which th a rri a s r i s r g e c g es pa s . He e seen a rich collection o f ictures a mon which p , g the po rtra its o f Prince Eug ene Bea uha rnai s and e l ol th Duke of Welling to n . There is a so a c lection o f ﬁne en ra v in s and man ra re and g g , y

recio us ec s Th thea re f h r is in p Obj t . e t o t e co u t the ermita H g e.

There a re other places belo ng ing to the in » E 45 D ON J UAN VAN H AL N .

eri l fa mil but which are not inha bited as p a y, , the ar le ala ce a nd tha tof icha el where M b P , M , the Emperor Pa ul I father of the reig ning m mon rch et a tra ic end . Its a a an a , g ppe r ce strikes one a s sin ula r in the resent time o win g p , g

o the dra w rid es ma sts a nd o ther hostile t b g , , forms which it still reserv es and which forci , p ,

in on h s ill The e bly rem d e of t e Ba t e. xchang e i s

a v er ele ant and s a cio us uildin situated y g p b g ,

There i s i n the square of the pala ce a v ery

la r e saloon destined for the l e dur g , dai y para d

in the winter mo nths the co m lica ted strue g , p ture o f its immense roo f being a n obj ect of

enera l admira tion a s the whole a tta lion o n g , b

‘ d t manmuv res in this sa loon with ea se under u y ,

the o rders of the m ero r a nd in the re E p , p

’ sence of hi s um r s ere i s still a n e o us taﬂ. Th

la r er one a t o sco w which was constructed g M ,

f As he ili under the directio n o Beta nco urt. t m

tary etiquette o f R ussia requires tha t there should

be a da i a rad e the sa loons a re indi s ensa le ly p , p b

to shelter t e so ldi r from the ri o ur o f th h e y g e.

At the other extremity of the Admi ralty is

the s uare o f sa a c whi ch is s mmetrica ll q I , y y

la ced with tha t of the ala c The u t p p e. bea t m i d church fro wh ch it takes its na me, o ne si e 46 N A R RATIVE o r

of the Admi ralt the ﬁ nds of the sen y, e ate

house and the commencement o f. the rid , b g e o f

oats fo rm the s uare in the middle of which b , q ,

s o a rock o f ranite a n e uestrian st rise , n g , q a tue

i bro n e o f eter the Great executed in the n z P ,

' rei of atheri ne I . a rench arti s who g n C I by F t, by thi s work ha s esta blished his claims to im

The Russian shops constitute a conti nua tion o f

r ico s in h fo rm o f a tra e ium It wa s uilt po t t e p z . b

a com an o f ussi merchants and n o by p y R an , fo reig ner is ev er allowed to ca rry on a ny kind o f

siness h r e r hi i m eri a l bu t e e. N a t s ediﬁ ce is the p

ba nk which wa s uilt exclusiv el fo r this o ec t , b y bj

u on a n excellent la n much admired for its sim p p ,

li it On h o o i e far fro m the c . t e site s d no t p y pp ,

a nk is the alace o f the ni hts of alta the b , p K g M , cha el o f which i s ta stefull o rna mented the most p y , di sti ng uished Ca tholic famili es contributing to its

su ort thei li if s pp by r bera l g t .

The ers ectiv e called Newsk is a v er wide p p , y , y and lo n street which commencin at the Admi g , , g ralt extend i he celeb y , s n a direct line as far a s t bra ted conv en of S l der Newsk a dis t t. A exan y , tance of three miles intersected three ea utiful , by b ca nals which duri n the summer months facili , , g ,

’ ta te the communi ca tion thro ug hout the city . I a ttended a solemn festiv al cele rated in the rea t , b g

48 NAR R AT IVE o r

certai n liberties whi ch those o f o ther countri es

o f en i dul e in contra r to the rules o f disc i t n g , y

m ror Alexander wa s i n line. Besi es the e p d , E p the daily ha bit of wa lking out alone i n the uni

fo rm of a eneral a nd wo uld suddenl resen t g , y p

himself where he wa s lea st ex ected a circum p , stance which kept the soldiers constantly on thei r

g ua rd . He likewi se a ssisted ev ery da y a t the para de

wi tho ut ev er wea rin a rea t coa t wha tev er mi ht g g , g

be he sev erit o f the wea ther hi s exam e ein t y , mb g

ri l f ll w all h neral o fﬁcers who st cty o o ed by t e g e ,

were under the o li a io n f a te din the a rade b g t o t n g p , a fter which he g a v e a udience in the saloon of the

sta nda rds of the g ua rd . h w I t e ch rch of St. eter and St. a ul hich n u P P , is in the cita del a re seen the tro hies o f the , p

French a rm ta ken in their retrea tfro m os w y , M co , ’ so e ma rshals a tons a nd a r m b , g ea t number o f . Turkish standa rds ma n o f which r , y a e stai ned with the blood o f tho se from who se hand s they were

wrested . The sta te ri so n i s in e it el p th c ad , as a e also the trea sures o f he r t cro wn .

The sa loons of the a ca demy o f sciences co ntain an i nﬁni e m r l t nu e o f curio siti s in ani ma s m. b e , 8 and in co stumes o f the different na tions of Asia a nd Ameri In a ca . separa te ca binet is seen i n

wa x the sta tue o f eter I. in the m P , same costu e D ON J UAN VA N H ALE N. 40 he wo re o n the day o f his ma rriag ewith Ca tha

i i n rine . It s said to be a v er stro n l ke ess I y g , a n d is most exquisitely ﬁni shed .

In ussia whoev er i s o nce receiv ed in the ho use R , o f a no lema n will alwa s ﬁnd a sea ta hi s ta l b , y t b e. No thing a ppea rs more sing ular thro ug ho ut the eru ire tha n a a chelor whether a na tiv e o r a p b ,

fo rei ner liv in i n retir ment. There a ll liv g , g e , e ei ther for so ciet o r w ar a nd the o uth s w y , y he themselv es a s polite in the sa lo on a s bra v e in the ﬁ ld e .

The ca rniv al i n Russi a i s spent in g ames pecu li ar to tha t co untr the chief o f which i s i n y, slid g do wn i r u si o un a i ns he the ce o R s an m t . T se ri se

etween f rt and fift feet a nd a re fifteen o r b o y y , tw t feet wide the sca ffoldin with which the en y , g y a re fo rmed being placed in the middle of a n ex tensi v e lain o f ice tha t the sled es on thei r de p , g scent ma y find a mple roo m where to spend the v f he stee ness elo city o their mo tio n . T p and smooth ness o f the mo unta in ca use the sled es es , g to d cend a t such a ra id rate tha t for a lon time a t r p , g f e the a re seen slidin on the l o I y g p a in f i ce. t i s ca lcula ted that a pistol ball fi red from the mo un ta in o nl ains one nd in ev er four o n he , y g seco y t r id a mo tio n o f the sled e. hen this sto s p g W p , ei ther itself o r me ns o f the hands which by by a , serv es for a helm a nd for o a rs the entleman sli n s , g g

V OL . 11. 50 NA RR AT IVE o r

’ it on his ac k as he mi hthis ska tes b , g , and offer i n his a rm to the lad who ha s a cco m a nied him g y p ,

c nducts her to the ste s ehind the mo unta in on o p b ,

whic t e e a scending h h y rep a t their a musement. No thing ca n be compa red to the g a y a nd ani

a ted scene resented on the ev a whi ch a t m p N , this

ime is fro en fro m fo ur to ﬁv e fee i k t z t th c . The i nha ita ts of o th sexes hold here their m b n . b g a es

o r The sho s re all shu n a nd sp ts. p a t a d deserted durin the eriod tha t these a musemen s g p t la st,

i s called the ussia ns e - whi ch by R th mea t and,

u ter week eca use these a nd o ther rov on b t , b p isi s a re rig oro usly forbidden in Lent by the Greek

u a nd the whole o ula tio n ﬂocks towards ch rch, p p

he v where han some sled es and ea utiful t Ne a, d g b

s o e- dancers r ll side . horses a e seen o n a R p ,

oo and tents in which drink a nd ro v i ions b ths, , p s

descri tion a re sold fo rm a art of thi s of ev ery p , p

o l r e en I e midst of these p pu a nca mpm t. n th

ro u s ri se in the f rm o f ra mids the Rus g p , , o py ,

mo unta ins on whose stee sides is seen the sian , p incessantmotion of people darting down in succes

e n Atbalh th g e tlemen are invited by the la dies to da nce, b ut usements the cont i e e Both the la d a d at these am rary s th cas . y n

i e sl d h A mann i the g entleman s tin th e g e in t e si a ti c er, w th thei r

s d th la d in h n the n ma n n i leg s cro se , e y u t, and g e tle gi vi g w th hi s an i r i on e l e ha nds y d ect h p ea ses to th sledg e, whi ch i s placed on two skate in order to ina ea se i ts velocity. D ON J UAN V A N n ALs N. 51.

and adding to the pleasing cmfusion that

l x h D r Elisen ursion w . In one of my s edg e e c s it ,

' went to T za rskoieselo an im erial summer seat I , p , where the reg iment o f the hussa rs Of the g uard is whom I associa ted mo st during my residence a t ' the ca ital was the o un Po oﬂ t whom m p , y g p , o I a inde ted for man civ ilities a nd who se fa ther b y , , a sena to r was the inti te friend of o temki n the , ma P ,

le ra d mi n f i ce b te ister o Ca therine II . The mag n ﬁcence displa yed by this bo dy of hussa rs prev ents any but youths o f wea lthy families from enteri ng thi s cor s their a ein sca rcel s t p , p y b g y ufﬁcient o

efra the sala ri s th ir rv a hen o d y e o f e se nts. W ne

' reﬂects o n the conditio n in whi ch the Russia n a r wa b t a few ears a o a nd sees its re ent my s u y g , p s sta te one canno t hel a dmirin the ro ress which , p g p g

as since ta ken la ce and whi h i entirel o wes h p , c t y

the la te ca m i ns. his im ro v e i s to . pa g T p ment Oh serv able ev en in the mo st triﬂi ng deta ils o f i ts mili ta r re ula tions y g ,

At one of the entra nces of Tzarsko xeselo , i s a tri um hs] arch in ron e o f ex uisit ta ste erected p b z q e , .

the ussian sena te to t e Em eror Alexa nder by R h p ,

E r des s ve y cent from the mountain costs two copper pi ece , lled ko éika which ui ent to tw farthi n s nd which ca p , are eq val o g , a , o r o e re i this astime. f course, are no g eat Obstacle t th pettion Of p

D 2 52 NARRATIVE o r

in hono ur of his ca m ai n in rance and dedi p g F ,

i s m hi n m ca ted by h m to hi a r y . T s ﬂa tteri g ho ag e

a ea rs a n inscri tion in old letters on the pp by p g ,

corni ce in ussian on o ne side and rench on , R , F

the o ther which sa s To m dea r co m anions , y , y p

i n arms The m er r on his r turn fro m the E p o , e

rench ca m ai n ca used his im erial uard to F p g , p g

pa ss under it.

also v i sited ano ther im erial summer sea t I p , ' r dis a nce fro m called Petroﬂ, situa ted a t a sho t t

r h n differe t direction from tha t . e rs u i a n St P te b g ,

' f T za rskoi eselo where sa w the new a er ma o , I p p

nufa ctor under the directio n o f a n excellent y ,

n lis mecha ni c much esteemed the E m E g h , by

w v r la r f peror. He she ed us some e y g e sheets o

a er manufac tured here a nd which a re used in p p , ,

o f h the to po g ra phica l labours and cha rts t e sta ff. At the ba ck Of the pala ce i s a la rg e a rtiﬁci al ca s

cade la ced o n an elev a ted ‘ s o t a nd fa cin the , p p , g

ev a which em ties itself here into the ulf of N , p g

ro nsta dt. understa nd tha t on a a rticula r C I , p

da in summer the wa ters a re ma de to la o v er y , p y

he ca scade which ein li hted with a n inﬁni te t , , b g g

num er o f reﬂectors enclo sed i n cr sta l ca ses to b , y

reserv e them from the da m resents a mo st p p, p

rillia n t a n d v a ri e a ted a ea ra nce when its illu b g pp ,

v mina ted wa ters a re seen from the Ne a . The Russia ns celebra te the resurrection a t mid D ON J V LRN UAN A N HA . 53 ni ht This festi v l i s anno unced recisel g . a p y a t tw lv e salute fro m the cita del a t whic . e by s , h mo ment the cry of He has ri sen bursts fro m the

o uth o ev er erson who from the mo n c m f y p , ar h the hum le t serf em ra ce each other in t k to b s , b o en

e r f s v of fo rg i v ness of eciproca l of ence . E ery mem

r o f the court either civ il or militar must be , y, be i n the presence of the Emperor a nd Empress a t the M e when the cannon ﬁres the si nal to g , pa r ti cipa te in the embra ces and felici ta tions ca used

v by tha t e ent. D esiro us of seeing the celebra tion o f thi s festi v al ia the Greek ca thedral of our a d of asa n L y K , where I wa s told a numerous conco urse were to be met, I hastened thither, a nd thanks to

e el o win wh ch ad learned in ondon th b g i I h L , I succeeded in rea ching the na v e of the church a

non ﬁ ed T e se u few minutes before the can r . h p l

‘ was l ced in the front o f the ta rna e chre p a be cl , i and the o es or r ests dres ed in . their sacer p p , p , s otal ro es formed a rocessi n similar to th t d b , p o a of

the a holi cs efore the re urrection th C t b s , e church

being mag niﬁcently illumi na ted. I was pressed ll side ersons o f oth s xes fo r in the on a s by p b e ,

e k churches ev er od witho ut distinctio n Gr e y b y, ,

and ev en the monarch himself, must rema in sta nd

i n but no sooner did the canticles the ells g ; , b , a nd the cannon a nnounce the denouemcnto f this 54 NA RRA Tt o r

reli io us so lemnit than I thou htmself trans g y , g y

a rria e a n n u ual f li po rted to the m g of C a a . M t e ci ta tions were exchan ed in whi ch m self arti g , I y p ci a ted ’ a s well a s of the su er which the p , pp s ecta tors ha d ca rri ed with them consi stin of p , g

a str a nd cold mea ts which the a te on the s o t p y , y p , ' i n proo f of the sev ere abstinenceobserved by them' d rin i a s u g the forty preced ng d y .

' The who le of the ca pita l i s a t thi s time illun i na ted a nd o n the follo win mo rni n the eti uette , g g q requires tha t the la dies sho uld be presented with wha t is ca lled an a ster E o rnamented h E g g , wit ri a nds a nd o ws in to ken of felicita tion for the b b ,

he lo w r clas ffer s ur ti . T l res rec on e s O rea e g g , more or less painted ; a nd the middle cla ss porce lai n ohes f w ic a rea t num er i s so ld duri n , o h h g b g

‘ these da s so me o f them a t a er hi h rice. y , V y g p

h la d r cei v es the resent she offers her W en a y e p ,

t he entleman who ki sses it a nd then hand o t g , :

di n fo rwa rd she a lies her li s to hi heeks ben g , pp p s c , a ' custom no t at all indifferent to a man who i s no t kin ha bituated to thi s d Of salute.

' The rig o urs of winter a re felt here long after E aster; butthe scene chang es so suddenly in the

' o h M a tha t in less than a fortni ht the m nt qf y , g

ev a e omes n vi a le the sno w disa ea rs N b c a g b , pp

h elds a n he trees soon rea ssume h r from t e ﬁ , d t t ei g reen clothing ; the country- ho uses are imme

56 NAR RA T IVE or ca rpenters busily a t wo rk in prepa ring the cabin

o r her a nd renderi n it a s co mmodio us as ossi f , g p

ble. his o un la d who ha d married a o un T y g y, y g

ussian f v r di s in uished fa mil h d the R o a e y t g y, a

h r o s indiscretio n to receiv e a Jesuit a t e h u e, a nd such wa s the fa tal ascenda ncy which tha t priest

a ined o v er her mind tha t it eca me much im g , b pa ired a nd tro ubled wi th a thousa nd confused idea s o e i er i n a utio us hus nd di s n l io n . H c a r g b , reg a rding the g o od a dv ice g iv en hi m by some

well- intentioned fri ends a id no a ttentio n to thi s , p

s iritua l intercourse till a t len th the la d lost p , g y her rea so n a nd fell a re to the most un o vern , p y g

a le fana ti ci sm to the rea t a fﬂiction of a ll her b , g

friends. The m eror who e a n a lread o be E p , b g y t

di s leased wit the im r er conducto f the Jesui s p h p op t ,

who mh i h l ted in ussia issu e had h t erto to era R , ed,

a bo ut a mr a f er his well- known decree y t , , by which they were expelled from the empire ; a nd ha v ing alwa ys felt a g rea t a tta chment for the fa mil o f this interesti n v icti he ordered tha t a y g m, fri ate should conv e her to fo rei n co untries r g y g , he physicia ns being of opinion tha t she mig htderiv e much beneﬁtfro m the new scenes she wo uld wit

’ ness and fro m the et s w d fr , soci y he o ul equent

durin r id e g he res ence th re. D ON J U N V N LEN A A HA .

CHAPTER V .

Hostilit of he ani m y t Sp sh inister, Zea Bermuda , to the author Intima tion g iv en by Count Nca th ode—Intervi ew wi th Zen Ber — — muda The author g ains his sa i t with the Emperor Salo on ’ of models of the Russi an unifnrms—Idben lity of the suthot s nds—The author ui t ﬁ e q s St. Petersburg h to join the army of Georg ia —J ourney to Moscow wi th Memories—Palace of Ta r

Two months had now elapsed since I had deli v ered m eti tion to the Em eror when Ge eral y p p , n

Betancourt i nformed me tha t the cause of this dela y mig ht be traced to the Spani sh minister

me fo r not ha v in resented m self to him es e g p y , p ci ally a s I had been lo dg ing in the same ho tel w e he r sid d kno win tha f her e e , and g t he requented some of the ho uses where I v isited . This was to

i c m reh le f r a ll th n s c n i red me n o p ensib o , i g o s de ,

v r t i itua n itwould ha e been preposte o us tha , n my s n 3 58 N ARRA TIVE o r

tio n I ould hav e offered m ho ma e to the , sh y g representa tiv e of a g o v ernment by which I wa s

ersecuted and a s I ha d nev er een ac uainted p ; , b q

with him in a in he co uld ha v e no claims to an Sp , y

ersonal n i er i n p co s d a to .

A few s i I r eiv a no te from da y after th s, ec ed

Co unt Nesselrode a ointin an interv iew wi th , pp g

his excellence who o n m re a iri n thither shid , y p g ,

after so me refator o serv a tions tha this ma est p y b , j y could not a dmitme i nto hi s serv ice without faili ng in those a ttentions tha t were o wing to the repro s enta ti v e of an allied monarch ; tha t the Spanish

’ mini ster hav m learned that i s ma s w s di s , g h je ty a

o sed .to fa v o ur me ha d a ddressed a no te to the p ,

' ministr in which he ex ressed hi s sur ri se tha t y , p p

m etition sho uld be li stened to and that if his y p ; ,

a ed to it he sho uld consider it as an m jesty acced ,

to hi s sov erei n; a stl the count affront offered g L y, . sa id tha t if I did no t remo v e these diﬁ culties, the

‘ Emperor was reso lv ed not to g rant the fa v o ur I d esi red a t hi s ha nds. I ma de to his excellency beerly the sa me ob serv ations I had made to General

“ Beta ncourt; but a s in simi lar ca ses the best a rg u. ments ca n be o f li ttle a v ai l the co unt ex ressed , p

‘ hi s reg ret that i t was no tin his power to remov e

‘ ‘ the obsta cle ; but that he should be g la d to hear

ud and m self in whi ch ca se I mi ht Zea Berm ez y , g non w a s v a n nu ns . 59 ag ai n ca ll upon him without wai ting a farther

a v in left the count I ha sten to General H g , ed

Beta n co urt whom I i nf had us , o rmed o f wha t j t

a ssed . On hea rin it he immedi l ordered p g , ate y hi s ca rria e and l v in e a ffai rs in which g , ea g th he wa s en a ed roceeded to v isit the nish g g , p Spa mini ster the ex ression of his untenance c on , p co v incing me tha t the arg uments I ha d urg ed had

“ ‘ no t een thro wn a a u on him. deed consi b w y p In ,

eri n hi s inﬂuence a nd si ua tion e ti rel inde d g t , n y

enden t of ain a d the o od ndersta ndin p Sp , n g u g existin etween him a nd the fo rm do u ted g b er, I b not b ut it wo uld be ea sy fo r him to explain the

r nreserv edl o Z a Bermude ma tte u y t e z .

Ea rly on the follo wing morning , General Betan

sent for me and addressed me thus court , ; My

ar Sir o u must kee the romi se I a v e es de , y p p g y

I w he a i sh min s r d hi c om da . sa t n i te an ter y Sp , s

lai nt a ainst o u i s tha t ou ha v e trea ted him p g y , y s uch reserv and contem t tha t w with o m e p , not ith sta ndi ng yo ur ha v ing resided in the sa me ho use

h him a nd sometimes methim o h v wi t , , y u a e nev er

wn him the least civilit In th ' situ she y . e a tion in

hich o u ar such conduct i s not the mo s w y e, t

‘ prudent: Yo u o ug ht to g o and see him; ermlain m ers frankl to ‘ im and tr to excite his a tt y h , y R V 60 NA RATI E. or

Re u a t as thi s ste was to me I was obli d p g n n p , g e to promise I would g o the next da y to see the

a nish mini ster as I stood in need o f this time Sp , to prepa re myself fo r a co nference which I expected wo uld be as disag reeable to the latter a s to myself. The g reatest pa rt of my friends wi th who mI wa s in habits of intimac y had no direct in ﬂuence i n . the ministry ; b utthey ha d all the necessa ry tact and experience to adv ise me ho w bestto a ct in this

n w d iv si g ula r v i sit, hen I sho uld be calle to g e the la st proo f of moderatio n requi red o f me in this co untry .

On th follo win da I wen t to the o tel of e g y, H

uro e a nd resented m self to the a ni sh E p , p y Sp minister who ha v in desi red those who were tha t , , g with him to withdra w olitel i nv ited me to be , p y

H en with l n i r s sea ted. e comm ced a o g d g e sio n on affai rs which had n thin to do with min h is o g e, lan ua e ei n tha to f a re enta nt li eral rela ti n g g b g p b , g a mong o ther thing s his ﬁrst steps i n fa v o ur of the

consti tutio n when . ih 1 12 he e n , 8 ca m a s a env oyé to the hea d- quarters of the Empero r to recei v e his sa nction to that code, and a fterwa rds i ntroduced

' the to ic i n which I was mo st interested sa in p , y g i n the mo t olite ma nner that he should v e s p , ha n o s w a s v a n n u n s . 61

” rme he a ded t a t ou ha ve etitioned the fo d, d , h y p ” Emperor to a dmityou into his serv ice.

Yes Sir I ha v e come to St. etersbur h , ; P g wi th no o ther Vi ew but my a dv erse fortune purc sues me ev en here, a nd hitherto I hav e no tbeen

'” B uthav e you reﬂected well upon iti l ” I ha e mo st m ture . v , a y But yo u a re fully aware tha t itis no t ata ll

m or ﬁttin to see aniard s enlis nde com on, g , Sp tu r

forei n a nners like the wi ss no w in o ne countr g b S , y,

w i n another alwa s wanderin and wa no , y g al ys adv enturous ” B ut Sir I r lied “ it is still a , , ep , g reater

dis rac a rticula rl in the a e we li v e i n o s e g e, p y g , t e so ma ny o f us sufferi ng under the hea v y and un»

merited wrong s whi ch hav e compelled . us to be i ” come wanderers in foreig n co untr es.

o no t o u think there i s mea ns of D y a. w a r ” ilia tin ev er thi n he continued interru tin c g y g , , p g m efore ou i v e more u licit th e, b y g p b y, by e

lution o u ha v e ta ken to h mes o reso y , t e do tic tr u

es of o ur co untr which we are all o li ed to bl . y, b g

concea l tha t o ur national re uta tion ma o , p y n tsuffer thereby

Sir m onducti n thi s res ectmust o , y c p be kn wn

even to yourself. I ha v e always a voided speaking 62 n a nna rrv r. o r

of the S anish ov ernment a nd if hitherto I ha v e p g ,

no t aid o u vi si use I w shed p y a t, it i s no t beca i to

offer o u a n inci v ilit but eca use I was a raid y y , b f

tha t ha d I done so m a ttentio n mi ht ha v e een , , y g b ” mi sconstrued into a n insult.

I a m perfec tly sa tisﬁed ; but I a m g oing to make yo u a propo sa l which I think yo u will a p k to eturn rov e of. o uld o u not li e r to ain p W y Sp ,

assume o ur former rank in e a rm and s rv y th y, e e

n h rd rs o o u Abi sba l who i s t u der t e o e f C nt , o c ommand the g rea t expedition which i s ﬁtting o ut i for So uth Ameri ca . o nce un ted to yo ur com

anions in a rms the o v ernment will fo r et the p , g g

i i el a nswer fo r the fa v pa st. I ca n pos t v y ourable

‘ f is ro osal if o u a o resul o h c e t f it. t t p p , y c p I will besides defra y the expenses of yo ur j ourney

kno w a t m either b land o r sea . th can a ke y , I I

i s o ff r The kin no ws m concilia to r yo u th e . g k y y intentio ns ; I a m certain tha t hi s majesty will fully a pprov e o f them

Sir our o d intentions a re no t fo r me a , y g o i suﬂicent g ua ra ntee. If I ca nnot enter theservice o f ussia m situa tion will be a inful ind R , y p eed ; bu will bea r u with it and nev er will v a t I p , I a il ” myself of such a proposal . After ma ny other pla usible arg uments from the mini ster whether sincere o r no t ca nno t sa , I y , I

” told him tha t I was aware of the steps, which he

64 lu me n -i v : or

n -i intention , I no sooner lea r ed from Ca n t Neu d rode thatthe principal ob stacle was seta side by the

h minis himself than I manifes his Spmis ter , ted to

e le ce m f in em o d ‘ xcel n y wish o be g pl ye in Georg ia. I immedia tely perceiv ed by his countena nce that I

had ad v anced s e to wards m a dmission n a t p y , a d

D uring some weeks my affa ir remained appa

rentl dormant until a t len h General Betans y , g t

that I would soon be reliev ed from my nucet

t a nd tha t ha n de a nd to em tai n y, , d I ot m ed be

lo ed i n Geor ia I wo ld not v e o t in d the p y g , u ha b a e

A len t on he anniv ersa r of m ﬂi ht fro m t g h, t y y g

Ma drid lea rned from ount M that m , I C y admissio n into the serv ice of Russia wa s anno unced i n the prik a s d which he read to me as follows z»

His Majesty the Emperor has been pleased,

in the si ttin of Ma l 6th 181 held a t ep g y , 9, St. P

n l sentto tha t cou try. They say tha tthis mbﬁ quetwas ﬁrst app ied

by Alexander himself. D ON J UAN VA N HALE N . 65

tersbur h to i ssue he foll wi n i g , t o g o rder. Nomno — tion to the serv ce for the c v The li ‘ i a alry . ento

D ent- colone o f the a nish a rm Va n Halon l Sp y, , admitted i nto the rank o f majo r in the reg imentof

i ed i n o l (S g n ) Pr ce W konsky. Chief o f the

r There is at St. Petersbu g h a place ca lled the

Sa loon o M odels whi ch conta ins the e ui f , q pments and a cco utremen te of ever re iment o th c v al y g , b a ry an infantr co m i t i d os n he m ri l . v y, p g pe a army E ery

tion of the m eror himself e ins w th t e E p , b g i h model which is de o ited in the sa loo n whils , p s , t ano ther perfec tly similar i s sent to its respectiv e reg iment. Thus the mo st scrupulo us unifo rmity d t e colours is o bserved bo th in the fa shion an h . The tailo rs a nd other a rtisa ns repai r to the saloon

eir i stru ons and an o fﬁ cer ma co for th n cti , y y m,

l ui h self a t St. eters ur h tho u h plete y eq p im P b g , g

his re iment be on the frontiers o f hina . g . C

As the etiquette requi red tha t I sho uld immey

l a ssume m uniform tha t I mi ht resent dia te y y , g p

milita r a utho riti es I v si ed the myself to the y , i t sa loo n to g i v e o rders fo r my complete equipment;

utm friends re o iced a t m oo d fortune had b y , j y g , me an were secretl been befo rehand with , d . y 66 na nns n v n o r

pla yed in prov iding ev ery thing I could stand in

ed o f so h t before I ha d i v en a n orders ne ; t a , g y , they presented to me all tha t I co uld possibly de n si re and ev en a ssisted me in uttin on m uni , p g y

fo rm after which the conducted e to a s lendid , y m p

ba n uet Here I was surro unded mo s o q . by t f my

fri ends who ha d a ll a ssem led to cele rate m , b b y

i s v i honourable admission i nto the Russ a n er ce.

Thi s was for me a truly memora ble da y . Neither jealo usy nor dissimula tion disturbed these happy

moments sincerit dee - felt interest a nd esteem ; y , p ,

for me were the o nl feelin s ev i nced a nd I am , y g , ,

s r en ain d h se kind d enero u fri n u e tert e e a n s e ds. , by t g

As an oﬁi cer of the ussia n a rm it wa s ia R y , c umbent on me to present myself to the Empero r ; but o wing to the circumsta nce o f his majesty ha v

in a ccordin to custo m left the ca ita l wi th g , g , p his i ’ famil for his summer a la ce of Tza rsko i l y p ese o,

whi ch i s twent wersts fro m the ca i tal a nd th y p , e . “ da il a udi ence ha v in cea sed the da o f m de y g , y y a rture a ro ached witho ut m ha v in een a l p pp , y g b b e

personally to testify to his maj esty my deep g m. i ude t t .

Conv inced of the necessity o f hastening my de a rture fro m St eters ur h to oi n m re im p . P b g j y g ent

Mili tar audiences whether efore the m e or or his e r y , b E p r g ne als, always take place at the time of the para de ; and once the summer V D ON J UAN AR HALRN .

ne of ﬁ ve und a j o ur y h red postleag ues. Prev io us

e Koch. H seemed much surprised at seeing me

ew costume but I ercei v ed his coun; h my n ; p , by

e more than hi s ex ressions tha t he h N anc by p , ad himself ta ken a s activ e a pa rt in con tributing to

s a s it was ou ible for one at suc a my succes , p h

General Betancourt, whose conductto wa rds me

d alwa s en tha tof fa ther had leftthe ca ha y be a , pi

o ins ect e works of the interio w tal t p th r, hi ch fell

his extensi v e a rtment two d s h to e d p , a y before t e prikaz anno unced the resultof his efforts ; conse

m sel to h m. the ussian . uniform and ing y f i in R , a g ai n expressing my g ra titud B ein no w furnished not o nly with letters of g .

da tion b h a li ttle u uese recommen , ut wit Port g

ro serv ant who had been resented to me neg , p by r s Galitzin a arria r v i Prince Bo i , and c g e p o ded thin I co uld si l wa nt a nd which with ev ery g pos b y , my friends ha d la v i shed on me with their usual it I re a red for m de a rture resent g enero s y p p y p , p i ng to one of them the only g ift I ha d in my w to e to w but which was the est ada ted po er b s , b p f u e than to remind him o my residence n ng , 68 Na na a n v n o r

“ el the tro h I ned on the ni htof m nam y, p y g ai g y m t escape fro he Inquisition.

m most n m frie ds M Mame One of y i ti ate n , r.

' noﬂ an a ide- de- ca m o f the ma or- eneral who , p j g , wa s charg ed wi th a topog ra phical mi ssion to the

ﬁeld wh r t e l ol ko w h e e h ba tt e of Sm ens as fo ug t, bein a out to de a rt inv ited me to accom an g b p , p y him as f r a s o scow I o rdered m serv ant to a M . y

recede us with the ca rria e and on the 23d of p g , Jul o ined m new tra v elli n com a nion a nd y j y g p ,

' met a t T sarskoieselo all m fri ends who were y , ' assem led a t the o use f ru likoﬂ ca tain o f b h o K g , p

hussars of the ua rd to bid me farewell. The g , weather was a tiful and the loneliness of so be u , thi s la e whi h the co urt had ust left so inv it p c , c j , in tha t o ur a rti n wa s rolo n ed till a late g , p g p g

our a t ni ht e em lo ed arto f our ﬁ m h . r . g W p y p in v isitin the ala ce the a rdens a nd the reat g p , g , g I rotunda which the m a therine I . ha d , E press C

' m i n Besi des this emorial of my suﬂering s in the Inquis tio , I had

ou h a in me w br g t from Sp another equally interesting to , hich I placed in the hands of his ltoyal Hi g hness the D uke of Sussex at is es cial u wi r ho se from w h pe req est, and th the app oba ti on of t hom ha d i i I receiv ed t. It cons sted of a larg e parchment, in whi ch the most prominent circumstances of my sufferings a nd escape were ’ sketched in n alleg orical manner, with a brid explana ti on of those h ur d events, and the pri vate sig na tures of t ose who had ﬁg e in them written in the centre. It ha d been g iven me by my friends of ' Hadri d on the nig ht I toolr my leave ci them, as a tolren of their attachmentand esteemﬁ rme. V D ON J UA N A N H ALE N .

caused to be built with the sole obj ect of celebrat

in there certain ri v a te a n uets witho ut ei n g p b q , b g

seen heard or observed a n o f the a ttendants , , by y the sea ts la tes di shes a nd ev er thin re uisite , p , , y g q for a sumptuo us ba nquet being dra wn up and down ma chi ner a cco rdin to the si nals of by y, g g the bell elon i n to ea ch sea t a nd the d b g g , emand of the a rticular di sh wan ted written in en p p cil.

There i s a saloon in thi s ala ce where the p , nume rous co stumes o f the different co untri es of the

ll d It i s n empire are co ecte . o t possible fo r me to describe i t; but i t i s witho ut co ntradictio n o ne o f

he ﬁ nest o f an co un tr i n ur e her t y y E o p . T e is besides a ca binet co ntai ni ng a multitude of reliev o s

hi s i s a ll r wo rk s in a m er. ei the in t a nd b T , hi s o r

o ther o f the im eri al a laces tha t will be a ny p p , likely to eng a g e the a ttention o f tho se who ha v e o nce seen the interi or ma g niﬁcence o f ro yal pala ces i i n Spa n .

I the a rdens o f Tza rskmeselo there i s a mon n g , g

her curious thin s the tom o f Zemi re a fa o t g , b , v uri te li ttle do of a therine the Grea t on o g C , whi ch a n epita ph written by Co unt Seg ur i s in ‘ scribed .

ur ﬁnal se a ra tion we sa t do wn to Prev ious to o p , su er which we enliv ened sin in ani sh pp , by g g Sp

See M émoi res de M onsi eur Seg ur, vol. II. p. 327. 0 s a nna rrv n o r .7

‘ patriotic song s that many o f my friends ha d

ed from me a nd a t m dni t we l lea rn , i g h a l rose

- e a e and I hid i z fro m th t bl , ad eu to men fro m who m I had experienced the most noble a nd ho s

ita ble conduct the remem of w p , brance ill

v r r m m ne e be erased f o m y ind .

72 n a nns r rv s o r

cellentdinner was serv ed to us thou h to a vo id ex , g ,

re etition I o u ht to remark here that the a t p , g

w i s tenda nce fro m St. Petersburg h to Mo sco

uall ood . e then co nti nued our wa a nd eq y g W y , ' u ceeded in cro ssin the o lkoﬁ thus av o idi n s c g W , g a circui t of thirty wersts which o therwi se we sho uld hav e been oblig ed to make by pa ssing

thro u h N ov o orod a cit to the ri ht o f tha t g g , y g

v No far from this lace are the celebra ted ri er. t p mili tary co lonies which ha v e been so much spoken

of in uro e and which a t resent a ccordi n to E p , p , g

the o inion of ma n a re neither mili ta r nor p y, y

l— t are no thin In form r times ag ricultura hey g . e those places were the cra dle of the fa mous N ov

do u g o rian Rep blic . At sev en in the ev ening we a rriv ed a t Bron

nit i a nd conti nued tra v elli n the whole ni ht on z , g g

an excellent roa d which but a few w s , years a g o a

m t da - rea k w K zi i a ssa le. A e reached rest p b y b , a nd entered a roa d which for a considera ble di s tance runs nea r the ba nks of the g rea t ca nal

which the extra o rdi nar en ca used y g ius of Peter I .

to be made to en a c mm w , Op o unica tion bet een the

B a ltic and a s ian ‘ seas a nd whi ch ha s een C p , b latel ordered with ran ite Al thou h durin y b g . g g the whole mo rning the road wa s by no mea ns fa v oura le to the horses a t three in the a fternoon b ,

' we reached a v illa e called Wolda i the si tua ti on g , . non J U N v a E N A n HAL . 73

f whi ch i s extremel icture ue n o he o y p sq , bei g n t borders o f a la ke in which are a number of

slets a nd surrounded ea utifull di v ersiﬁ i , by b y ed hills ; a Greek mo na stery which in former times possessed an extensiv e a uthority o v er the a djacent co un tr formin a rominent fea ture in th r y, g p e pe s i v e pect .

In ro orti on a s w e a dv a nced the roa d ec e p p , b am

worse the rea t ua ntit of sno w which v , g q y co ers the ea rth duri ng sev en or eig ht months in the yea r prev enting its acquiring the necessa ry soli

In man la es it i s still fo dity . y p c rmed of the

boa rds with whi ch Peter I . ca used it to be co v ered

for sev eral hundred wersts, and which o cca sion in

mer a v er disa reea le mo tion while on the sum y g b , ,

o h r ha nd the seem etter a da ted to in ure t e , y b p j the ca rriages than to remedy the inconv eni ences of

who wa s entruste m il. Beta ncourt d a sw a py so ,

wi th the ca re o f remov i n these o sta cles ha d g , b , alrea dy made so me prog ress to wards attai ning that

n the 20th a t noon we sto ed a moment a t O , , pp

a r 0k in which lace there a re some excellent T j , p

h r m n f ctories a nd where we o u ht few lea t e a u a , b g a ’ k w r m. e a riv ed l At nine o cloc . at arti c es. , p

Twer, where tea wa s serv ed to us in

wo no t ha v dis raced the est hotel in E n uld e g b g ;

l n As fro m a to Au ust he i hts in this a d. M y g t n g

v on. 11. 74 xxnu 'n v n or

i so short the hea t and the bad roa ds reg on are ,

v llin rendered our tra e g here extremely tedio us. I t now and then reminded me o f Ca stile ; the conn a

al so a oundin in la r e monasteries whic h try b g g , possessed considera ble weal th when the Russia n g o vernment were less a cquainted with thei r true interest.

w a roached o scow the coun As e pp M , try assumed ted s ct an a mo re culti v a a pe , d numerous v illa s

rned the ros ects on ea ch side of the road ado p p .

i an elev a ted S ot a out ei ht wers On reach ng . p b g ts

co w this cele ra ted cit urs from Mos , b y b t upon o ur i ht s rea di n o v er a co nsiderable s ace o f s g , p g p

round the fa mo us remlin ri sin mids a g , K g a t

ultitude of ala ces a nd the il ed cu ola o m p , g d p s f

he umerous churches rendere dou l rilli ant t n , d b y b

of the setti n sun offerin a si ht a s by the rays g , g g

e s i t wa s s lendid and i omn nov el to m a p mp g . anion who had ma de the ca m i n f My comp , pa g o w a ainst a oleon o n u to e Mosco g N p , p i ted o t m the roa d by which the v a ng uard of the g rea t army came a oint which no twithsta ndi n the dista nce , p , g ,

I was ena led to di stin uish v er clea rl o win b g y y , g to the elev ation o f the roa d throug h whi ch the

F rench reached the cit and o n the hi hest r y , g pa t o f which the g o v ernment ha v e the project o f erecting a sumptuo us temple to perpetua te the r of t On earin r m m friend the memo y i . h g f o y D ON J UAN VAN KAI-E N.

in terestin a ccounto f the urnin of Mo sco w in g b g ,

w c h w hi h so muc wealth as consumed, it wa s im

’ o ssi le on ca stin one s e es on the cit not to p b , g y y,

Abo ut sev en wersts fro m the ci t we sa w to y, ,

the left o f o ur roa d a alace whi ch had een the , p b

residence of Peter the Grea t, a nd farther on the

sta te ri son st ndin in a n isola ted situati on p , a g ,

a n d sur o nded hi l e entered the r u by a g h wal . W ’ ci t a t ei hto clock in the ev enin and ex eri enced y g g , p n o ne of tho se difﬁculties which I met with on my '

a rriv al at St. r ur h Pete sb g .

hen in ussi an o ﬁc r i s on the oint of W , R a , f e p

ettin off or lace of hi s destination the s g f the p , i l e as te minister of war deli v ers to him a feu le d p , a nd the exact sum required to defray the expenses

f o ti us t e e sa n are never ca l ed o p s ng . Th h p a try l

on a s he cas in ain a nd other co untries up , is t e Sp ,

to furni sh the military wi th the means of conv eys

nce to the reat detrimentof a riculture. a , g g My a ffa irs at Moscow were conﬁned to a vi sit

- eneral whom m euille to the g overnor g , by y f do p osts was to be sig ned ; but the neg ro whom I etersb ur h with m car had sent from St. P g y

rie e had ta ken so little ca re of it that I wa s g , , l e to dis ose of i t a nd rocure m self ano ob ig d p , p y

r ﬁt for tra v ellin which is called in ther, mo e g , n 2 76 NA RRAT I VE or

‘ ‘ ' countr kibitl a ‘ a nd without which it i s the y , v ery likely I sho uld nev er ha ve reached the

” rf rm an serv i Ca ucasus i n a co ndition to pe o y ce.

‘ i s e ined me four da s a t Moscow the Th d ta y , ﬁ rst and la st o f which my companion and my self dined with the la dy of one of our bestfrien ds

' h and the d wi h he t S . eters ur secon t t a t P b g ,

amil of rince Andrew Galitzin who ha d ust f y P , j arri v ed fro m their co untry- house in the v icini ty w General ol r k mmanda n of osco . P ta a s co t M y, o f o ne of the ri a des in a rri son here and rea tl b g g , g y a tta ched to the chief under whose orders I was

in rv w mem o to se e as a er o thi s fa mil . g g , b f y My short sojo urn a t Mo sco w did not permit me to exa mine the obj ects worthy of no tice whi ch are to be seen i n a city so celebrated in the nsls o f our times a nd whi ch its si tua tio n will , by no t fail to ﬁg ure in all the political ev ents tha t ma ke la ce in ussi y ta p R a . Moscow and the numero us v illas adj oining it sprea d in a uniform ma nner ov er a circumference of for w rs T ty e ts. he Kremlin rises majesti cally almost in the centre of the city and is sur-z round d sev eral hundreds of deld- i eces e by p ,

his hi r m a - i T w ch ese bles cradle; and is covered with oil sk n: I has two sea ts in - t front, one for the coa chman, and the other for the servmg md h swpmwd by M Wheelg bnthu no sp ing u v a n b ox w a s n n u s . 77

’ Na ol s r n ta ken on the retreat of p eon g a d army .

N la rc seen the Russian sho s and ear thi s pa ce a p ,

l after the numero us ala ces of the immediate y , p

Muscov i nobili t . on which the rava es com te y, g ited the ﬂames are no lon er o serv a le m t by g b b . Althoug h this city has been so long the residence

th utom ts and the rinci al hea tre of ti e . a , p p t

heir t ra nn there i s a monument whic h ev en t y y, , , in hil del hia would excite the interest a nd P a p , ve e f ev er a trio t namel an extremel n ration o y p ; y , y well executed sta tue in bronze of Ko uzma Mi

. a i . minn i the . costume of cit en Thi s ma n , n z , who wa s a utcher o f Ni nei o v o ro su b j N g d, c ce d d n one of the rea t conﬂicts to whi ch e e , i g his country wa s expo sed a t the beg inni ng o f the sev e r i n r usi n the ner ies f nteenth centu y, o g e g o

force whi he la ced nder the c mmand of , ch p u o a w v who r ised the sie orthy and aliant man, a g e of w and ex el ed the i v aders from its Mosco , p l n

T s e t of scow ar er wi de butthe he tr e s Mo ey y , y

ar no clea n a thos f St. eters ur h nor e t so s e o P b g , i th i h is s ere thatg aietys and bustle wh c the pre dominant. fea ture of then capitals where much

ou m e c l erce is c rried o n. Th eo le ho wev a p p , er, are ev e m re ho s ita le and the societ mo re n o p b , y a e s o f access th n a t St. Peters ur h. Had I y, a b g 78 n a nna rrv n or

cce ted al the inv ita tions I recei v ed I m a p l , usthav e

The di rect road to the auca sus or to Persi a C , ,

' i s thro u h oula a la ce c elebrated for s g T , ( p it

anuf ctories of a rms and continues afterw m a , ) ards

ronee to wards the D on ha tof Ni by Wo j . T jnei

o v o rod wher a t this time was held the N g , e g rea t

a ir is considera l remo v ed frOm the fo rni f , b y er ; but as General Betancourt ha ppened to be in thi s

cit and wa s desiro us to bid him fa rewell y , I , I

made his circuit with lea sure On h t p . t e 3l st

l in ed f m m tra in Ju y, ha v g pa rt ro y v ell g com

' anio wh too k the roa d to Smolensko l: p n, o , I fo

‘ lo vved in the o osite direction shut u with m pp , p y

books a nd my young neg ro i n the kibitka . This roa d wa s in ra ther better condition than that

rsbur h to o sco w and the r from St. Pete g M , t a

‘ o r i nall x edi tio us v elli ng prop to y e p .

vin ex eri enced . a lon dela t Pol Ha g p g y a ta va , I was prev ented from rea ching Pokro w till la te i n the a fternoon ; a nd pa ssing a fterwards throug h

i a where I sto ed a s hort th e a t an inn L pn , pp i e E n li sh st le of whic conducted n th g y , h sev e

wi in ussia I co ntinued trav ral are met th R , el

he whole ni ht a t a ra idrra te and a t the ling t g p , ter d ladi mir the ca ita l of brea k of da y en e W , p f the sa me na me formerl the the g ov ernment o , y f R residence o f the persecuted co urt o ussia,

’ 80 n a na a rrv n o r

mo rnin tha tit was with much diﬁ cult I fo und g , y

la ce where to ali ht the inns here in or a p g , be g f the most part v ery inferior to those found i n the

s o ther cities in Ru si a . Hav i ng immedi a tely sent a serv a nt to ascerta in whether General Beta ncourt w still in town I lea rned with leasure h t h a s , p t a e

l lad to see me withoutdela and a wo u d be g y, th t he insisted o n my ta king up my quarters with him here during my residence . The city of Nijnei No v g o rod is v ery celebra ted of ussi a a nd till i n the annal s R , s preserv es some

The fair held here kno w ities. n tiqu , by the " . a kari eii s fai r eca use i o ri i na me of St M , b t g na lly termina ted on the anniversa ry of the festiv al of

int i s a ccordin to the eneral o inion this sa , , g g p , l d f the most numero us y a tten ed o any in Euro pe. F ormerly it was held a t a short distarme from

he anks o f the ol a and to wn on t b W g , on the leman o f h co r I esta te o f a nob t e unt y . ti s a sserted tha t the ma g a zines and o ther building s for the

ro rietor were intentionall set on ﬁre a nd the p p , y l consumed a nd tha t the no leman w entire y , b as

ildi n hem T e m prev ented fro m rebu g t . h E peror Alexander then ordered an ediﬁce to be built ex

r i s o ect which sho ul elusiv ely fo th bj , d unite ' h nv enience and oﬁer such solidity wit co , adv an ta g es as should i nvi te merchants to concur and ‘ no n JIM ) ! v an m u n. 81

increa se the revea ues of the crown. General Be tancou rt formed the lan of he uildin and p t b g , ins e i ts execution whi w s exclusiv el p cted , ch a y

As this ediﬁce i s erected on one of the ang les

z n s w d u i n he orm of alleries i e , hich are lai o t t f g or o su d iron illars and which p rti cos pporte by p , o ccupy a quadrang ula r space o f g round of about a tho d to s ur oun e b canals. usan i es, are s r d d y

Wh I v isited hi s la ce it wa s nearl ﬁnished en t p , y ith een ur r in r in and had a d b fo yea s const uct g , costthe Russia n treasury mo re than o f ro ubles (paper money a g rea t part o f thi s sum ho wev er ein a sor ed in the su terra , , b g b b b

eo works th had been obli ed to construct n us ey g , a n account o f the light and sandy soil on which

h di n i s I i w v er executed t uil erected . t s ho e e b g , ,

wit the solidit o the a ni sh uildin s and is h y f Sp b g , g uara nteed by the di rector for the spa ce of a bun

n v n dred yea rs witho utrepairing . Itbri g s a re e ue to the g ov ernment of a bout a million a nd a half

of ro ubles er annum p . Itcanno tbe doubted tha t bo th the fair and the town ha v e g ai ned much by the construction of

At that i w nt. tme this money as 75 per cent. discou

3 3 82 ass ua n frtrs . or,

“ thi s new building ; « the formern on a ccountof ﬁt ‘ o mo io i i aﬂ nda to me ch g reata cc m dat n wh ch t o r ants, who can with more fa cility and economy conv ey their g oods by wa ter; a nd the latterb y the v isible

in rea se o ula tion a nd the wealt which it c f pop , h

The most impo rta ntcommerce is carried on by

“ ‘

he u i and the Boukharees who . in t R ss a ns , br g

m n ds in silk cotton s a ufa ctured g oo , , ca hmere l f i h s ll as hi s sha w s so me o wh c e . a , ( g h

rou les tur uoises a nd la sis lazuli sa lt etr b q , p , p e,

ried fruits and v ario us o ther thi n s and e o rt d , g , xp ,

' i n return su a r co ffee clo ths ar s d , g , , , m , an articles

o he o in lea ther a nd ir n, t g reatest part f which

come fro mthe cele ra ted m u es f b an facto ri o To ula .

T uk re v l n he Bo ba es tra e i cara v ans, and perform

a rt of thei r wa the ol a their v p y by W g , oya g e bei ng rendered at present mo re expeditio us by the

m- o a s tha tna v i a te it Th stea b t g . e g rea testnumber

o f ussia n mercha nts co me from o sco w R M , among whom ﬁg ure also some French mercha n ds des

ma vea 'utés who thou h the o nl sell r , , g y y by etail,

Accordin to the en r i g g e al Op ni on, the Russian merchant is as e rusted s the li little to b t a Po sh J ews, who are so renowned for

chea tin . A Boukharee howev er assured u g , , s tha t his country men ma de more advantag eous barg ai ns with the former than with any of the other mercha nts a circumstance th ore em sing ular, as the Bonk r hsrccs are a people of g estprobi ty. no n w a n v a n H EN 83 AL .

' n r r T v obtm g eatp oﬁts. he Armenians are not ery

' numerous their co merce i rinci l r , m be ng p pal y ca

ried o n in Geo r ia I hav e l k ewis seen T ks g . i e ur

ro ses fo r which the nev er recei v a , y e ny mercha n dise i n r tu e rn.

In Russia the consumption of tea is very cousi

derable a nd co se uentl a n articl , , n q y, e much in

ma nd a s de tthi fair. One mercha nt alone, who had ju st a rri v ed with hi s ca ra v a n fro m the fron

tiers o f hina had thi s ear o n s l C , y a e teas to the “ v alue o f of ro u les) his ma n who b T , ca me a lwa s a cco m anied his o un wife a y p by y g , lad ossessin man erso na l a ttra ctions ea rl y p g y p , y y performed a journey to China a t the head o f his

v we met thi s lad a t a sho ca ra a ns . One da y y p bu in fo ur shawls for which she ai d y g , p

s e sur ri sed a t seein tha t a ro uble . We w re p g woma n who sca rcel fre uented societ for twent , y q y y da s in the ea r mo st of her time ein s ent in y y , ( b g p tra v ellin sho uld waste so much mone i n mere g ,) y a rticles o f luxury ; but she explained the riddle to us when she no ti ced o ur sur rise sa in i n , p , by y g a v er ra ceful manner tha t a s her hus a nd y g , b liked o see her dressed in the uro ea n fa shion t E p ,

Tea i s dearer at Ni jnei than i n Eng land or North America ;

butthe ﬂavour is much ﬁner than thatwhi ch crosses the sea s. 84 M i nimu m: or she boug ht those articles to wea r them in their u h the deserts her onl ha iness thro . jo urney g , y pp ” in leasin hi consi sting p g m.

The Bo ukharee Tartars a re g enerally of a . noble

r nc dress well a nd are na turall ea ce appea a e, , y p ful and industrious. They a re subj ect to an ia de endent han who resides a t Bo ukha ria a p K , , cit not far fro m a marcand the district of y S , which they must cross to reach the fro ntiers of

ussia thou h not wi tho ut da n er. his the R , g g . T y sometimes elude by pa rtial trea ties wi th the a rmed

rdes of ir ui sses who rotect them a a inst ho K g , p g their idle and rapacio us neig hbo urs. The Bonk. harees to thei r habits of industry jo in a g reatdesire for informa ti on, and I ha v e seen sev eral of them

erusin a memoir o f Na oleo n ri t p g p , p n ed a t Paris

n Ara ic of which be ca used ma n o i i b , y c p es to be

ent to Tarta r a nd which o is v er o ular a m n s y, y p p o g

The number of mercha nts a ssembled this yea r a t the fai r was from to a mnl. titude whi ch na turally presented a g rea t v a ri ety of costumes a nd countenances. Here wa s seen the ussian mercha nt wra ed u i R , pp p n his blue ca fta n eside hi s wife r d i , b , ar aye n the na tional dress and her hair a dorned with , a pro fusion o f stri ng s of pea rls ; there the Persians and the

menians wi th their hi h ca Ar , g ps of curly g oa t D ON JU AN VAN HALE N.

skin and dou le an in sleev es. Farther on , b h g g , ' the a rta r o f Boukharia and that of a sa n and T , K , of Mong olia ; whilstthe Turk pa ced up a nd do wn wi h hi s usual indolence a nd slo w ait as if a fraid t g , the g ro und wo uld g iv e way benea th his steps.

The uro ean merchant whose dress a eared E p , pp no less si n ula r in the e es o f the fo rmer than g y ,

i rominen sta i theirs d d i n o urs occu ied a t ton. , p p In the ev eni ng the fair is tra nsformed into a

rea t iv oli where a thea tre ro e- dancers g T , , p ,

ussi an swin s u lers lea rned uadm ed R g , j g g , q p

sea - ma nstets a nd man o ther a musin o ects are , y g bj s een and en a e the a ttention o f the deli hted , g g g m e i f multi tude. A e sa me ti e th h her cla ss o t th , g

soci et ha v e their rillia nt a ssem lies a t which y b b , the mo st disting ui shed fa milies of the co untry

t d d the sa me reﬁnement and oo t end . n ee d a I , g

is l n h hi her circles o f eters ta ste d p ayed i t e g St. P

b ur h are fo und in ho se of the mos remote g , t t

to wns of the interior In ussia this class o . R , f people unite all the dig nity of the Eng li sh nobi li ty wi th the g a iety a nd a g reeable ma nners of the h rench efore the eca me oliticians. T e F , b y b p

ladies who ev r where in uro e a re the v er , e y E p y

so ul o f so ciet are no wa inferior in ersonal y , y p ' a ttractions a ﬂabilit v iv a ci t and wit to those , y , y, ,

of an o ther uro n un r y E pea co t y . The fair ends a t present on the l oth or 15th 86 ua a ua 'rtv n o r

’ o f Au ust three weeks after St. a ltarieff s da g , M y, when a g rea t number o f boa ts a re immedia tely loa ded a nd re -descend he ol a wi he , t W g th t Bonk ha rees a nd o ther arta rs Armenia ns c who T , , & . , , a s the a roa ch Astra can which l 50 y pp , is lea g ues

ro m Ni nei ov orod soon dis erse in ffere t f j N g , p di n

directions.

Before di smissin the su ect of t e fair g bj h , I o ug ht to mention here the o nly thing I rema rked

e u nan to m feeli n s namel the u lic r p g t y g ; y , p b thea tre in whi ch there i s com a n of comedi a ns , a p y , whol co m sed of ser s belon in to a ce ta in ly po f , g g r

ersona e who ma kes a traﬂi c of their exertio ns p g , a n who m he of e u re m n d t n stim la tes by ha rsh t a t e t.

To hea r an unha sla v e actin onl on t e ppy g , y h boa rds the art of hero o r a freema n crea tes a , p a , melanchol reﬂection a n one ca nnot hel fanc in y , d p y g tha t the proprietor himself is behind the scenes wi th the kno ut rai sed a c in h a rt o a , t g t e p f pro mpter.

88 NA na a rrv n or

i tin by no means nvi g . In the hope of rendering

o urne less tedio us and fa ti uin I ro v id ed my j y g g , p lf with a ma ttress for m ki itka with some myse y b ,

ooks a un ma teria ls fo r dra win a ua nti t b , g , g , q y

ro v isio ns ci ars and a o v e all a ood s of p , g , , b , g tock

da a fter lea v in Ni nei I On the y g j , passed a t

r thro u h Arsama s a fter tra v ellin ov dayb eak g , g

-L a road rendered . almo st impa ssa ble by the inces

sa nt rains which had fallen within the last few

da s d which were usherin in the lon winter y , an g g sea son of Russia ; the thermometer two days be fore my departure fro m Nijnei being at certain ° hours of e da 2 elo w ero th y b z .

t Sera nsk where I sto ed a shor tim or A , pp t e f th ur ose of rocurin some o ther a rticles e p p p g , which the fea rs I entertai ned respecting the poor a ccommoda tio ns on the road seemed to render neces r fo und ano ther fa ir tho u h v er ia sa y I , g y ferio r to tha t of Ni nei o v o rod where a reat j N g , g num er of horses for dra u ht mo st of them v r b g , e y fine were ex osed fo r sale T e w - m , p . h ater elo ns o f eransk are excellent in rea a u S , g t b ndance, a nd v er chea a s a re a lso all kinds o f ro v i sions y p ; p , of which o u ht sufﬁcientfor four or ﬁv e da s I b g y ,

n oultr and fruits and a id onl two i p y , p y ro ubles

Notwithstanding the communi cation between ‘ D O U N v a n Hu N J A n t. 89

the two fa irs, I fo und the ro a d ra ther unfro

uented meetin onl here a nd there a ost of q , g y p

R ussian easa nts to who the u it of the p , m sec r y ro a d wa s entrusted altho u h it is v er ra rel , g y y

tha t a tra v eller is a t k rs in ssi ta c ed by robbe Ru a .

a v in leftSera nsk tra v elled o n to en a a ss H g , I P z , p

i n thro u h a sma l ha mlet called Yermolo w. g g l , The country i n the v icinity o f this place is

v er fertile a nd is irri a ted the wa ters o f the y , g by

ri v er o ura which em ties i self into the ol a S , p t W g .

It wa s midni ht when we entered en a the ca i g P z , p

ta l of the o v ernment n me a nd 80 g cf the sa me a ,

l a u s r m r of e g e f o Nijnei No v g oro d . The maste

the post- ho use ha d alrea dy retired to bed ; but

he immedia tel a ro se on o ur arri v al a nd ud ed y , I j g , ' the comfo rts w ich his ho use a ﬁorded th t by h , a ' we were in a city v ery superior to the places

throu h which we a s After ta kin g had j ust p sed . g a cu of tea to whi h rea tl a ccustomed p , ch I ad g y

m self si nce m arriv al in ussia I ro ceeded on y y R , p

my j o urney . In propo rtion a s we remov ed fro m Nijnei No v a

o rod erceiv ed a ma teria l difference in the g , I p o

em erature. e f wi h clea r moon t p W le t Penza t a.

li ht ni ht the ilence of which wa s interru ted g g , s p only by the merry song s and cracking s of the

whi s o f our ussia n o stilions who are a s no is p R p , y and full o f mirth as the most buoyant reg a les 90 NA-BBATIVE o r

(post- boys) of Andalusia : From Panza to Wo

n tha t i s to sa in a dista nce of more tha n ro eje, y,

w rsts t e onl two tolera le laces 500 e , h y b p met with re Tambo w ca ital o th ov ernmen of a , p f e g t

Tchembar, and Ki rsa no w. Kotlo w and a few

th s hic re e ond these re o inconsi o er , w h a b y , a s dera le tha t the ha v e not ev en o ained a l ce h , y bt p a n the harts of the countr i c y .

On the 1 th a ssed throu h Ar uelek wher 9 I p g g , e fo the ﬁrst time me wi th arta r ostilions as r I t T p , well as ' with a reat num er of a rs a si h g b beg g , g t a t which was ru tl sur rised as since m I g y p , y arri v al in ussi a had no t seen an The R I y . a p a f the numero us wolv es that a t nig ht roa med aboutthe d o ur trav elli n here roa d, ren ered g by mean l s n he mornin of the 22n o t. O t d n s p ea an g ,

' we iv ed t orone e here was o li e arr a W j , w I b g d to ki i rema in a few ho urs in order to repair my b tka . This cit whi ch like most of the to wns in y, ,

Russi i s uilt in mo e st le i s ra ther a , b a d rn y , handsome an o ulous but once out of i t o ne d p p ; , meets only deserts for a considerable number of lea ues h t- hou em v e n miser e g , t e pos ses th sel es b i g a bl

left orone e arl in oo T I W j e y the aftern n . he weather was extremely ﬁne ; but the appea rance v 1 c o n ma n a n H ALE N. 9 of the ste er or de ers which in as Wo pp , s t , beg

rone e and extend . he u j , to t foot of the Caucas s, is re an l te be md ex ression I ba r n d deso a . y p .

li ev ho wev er ha a r from o s be e, , t t f n t being su ce tible of ulti a tion the i h im p c v , y mg t, with t e ud la o ur m the most a undan i s b , beco e b tg rann es of Russia nd ed i the ar not so no w it . I e , f y e , us be ttri ute to ba d admini stration a nd m t a b d . a , to the v er scant o ula tion o f thes dis r c y y p p e t i ts. Pa wlowsk and Bobro w are the o nly villa g es m f tha t a re et with rom Woroneje to Kasankai a ,

ext n f ort - v e lea ues The two f r an e to f y ﬁ g . o mer places are considered a s the capitals of districts whi ch exist a t resento nl in ima ination p y g . The serv ice o f posts in thi s hig h ro ad from Moscow to the D on i s v ery superior to tha t leading to Nijnei

v oro a and the rest over which I No g d, Penz , ,

Kasa nka mfo rms the bounda ries of the g overn ment of Worone e a nd tha t of the Cossacks of j ,

i ncli nin towards the east dou tl rom d g , b ess p pte Peter the Great to undertak e the colossal work of

opening a communication between the Bla ck and

the as ia n sea s ' of a o ou C p , by means canal f ab t

must be cu throu h a chain of mountains a t g , work whic when onsta ntino le ecomes the h, C p b 99 na nna rrv n or

ma n

The majestic riv er D on is crossed a tKa sa nka na

a f rr and the osts are then under the by e y, p

direction of ossa cks . On lea v in this riv er . C g behind the mono to n of the ste es was such , y pp ,

th t a ird tr e or a hov el were as welcoine a b , a e , to mo u sig ns o f la nd might be to a sailor after a l ong v oyag e. In crossing tho se deserts d uring

the ni ht of the 23rd and on the follo wi n da g , g y,

met wi th sev e t s of wanderin ho rse I ral roop g s, and with so me hord es of almucks trans ortin K , p g fromone la ce to another t eir kioi tM o r tents p h , , made of skins where the all hu dle to ther , y d g e

o t round a small ﬁre, sheltered fr m he cold, the

wind, a nd the rai n . ThereI ha v e seen the chil

r n ontendin for a one with the do s d e c g b g , by

k The w whom they are continually a ttac ed. eal th

u k con i sts of a kiv itka mo re o r less of a Ka lm c s ,

These idle wanderers are continuall cha n : loss. y g

their residence which la sts onl so lon as ing , y g they ﬁnd pasture for their cattle a ro und the place

h ir l f idl of their encampment. To t e ov e o eness the oin a assion for stron li uors a nd a ro y j p g q , p

' n it v in in which the mdul e wh n pe s y to thie g , y g e h ev er they can do itwit o utrisk.

' ' I a rriv ed on the morning of the 25th a t the D ON U N v J A a n n a LnN. w

‘ ost- ho use near the modern Tch rka p e skc, the ca pital o f the country of the Cossacks of the

h me n h whi ch bea rs t e sa ame. Not ing i s more

is not ov erstocked wi th rovisions t an o p , h t see the mi sera ble postilions in v ain exerting ev ery nerve to ur e forwa rd their lean and exha uste hor g d ses. Fro m Tcherka ske the roa d borders the heig hts

’ ‘ on which the cit sta nds a s fa r a s Ba i sk i y ta a a, a

o wn inha ited ossac s nd e who e t b by C k , a th l of whi ch is nea tl ilt of woo d r t l y bu d in a mo e n s y e. The ri ver D on i s ag ain cro ssed here by a ﬂoating

The er s bridg e. m cantile riches of thi to wn con

st chieﬂ in tim er which comes do wn thi s riv er si y b ,

Orel a stance of a out two undred fro m , di b h w ded to the sea o Azoif miles, and which i s for ar f .

s d u h the to wn a li hted to see As I pas e thro g , I g

‘ the market- place ; a nd by the orna ments worn by f the k women erceiv ed t t so me o Cossac , I p ha their husba nds or rela tions had been of the num ber of those who ha d exercised their trade of ra pine from the ba nks of the Niemen to those of the Seine. The i nterior of the ho uses belong ing to the

Cossa cks o ud e from tho se whi ch sa w nea r , t j g I

he c ital is a mod l of cle nli ness and econo m . t ap , e a y In this respect they surpass all I ha ve seen in 94 n a nna rrv n o r

R ussia . The small number o f Co ssa cks who succeed in exempti ng themselv es fro m the mili ta ry

v ice are dev oted to m ser , com erce, in which their industr enerall insures suc ess It i s do u t y g y c . b less o wi n to thi s tha t the rea test a rt of the , g , g p Co ssack popula tio n is fo und on the borders o f the

on a d of the Ko u a nn the s erilit o f he D n b , t y t steppes being an impedimentag ainst their formi ng

The Co ssa ck s a re ho spitable a t ho me but they carry their relig ious scruples to wards tho se who

' m hem in creed so fa r as to rea k the diﬂer fro t , b g lass or plate used by their g uests. These scru

les ho wev er do not rev ent them when the p , , p , y

in forei n countries fro m ma kin as lar e a are g , g g booty as they po ssibly can a nd indeed these spoils hav e a t all times fo rmed the principal

wea lth o f the Co ssacks of the D on .

e ost- houses in this countr es eciall hose Th p y , p y t

which are met wi th o utof the to wn s a re enerall , g y

wretched huts ha v in two di v isions ne fo r , g ; o the tra v eller who wo uld be fo olish enoug h to sojo urn here and the o ther for the ostili ons the m r t ; p , a ste

of the ost- hon se a nd the ma n called econo m p , , e,

l e - T e dut f who a l li v e p ll mell . h y o the ma ster i s to ’ examine and re ister the trav eller s ewillc de st g f p o s, and to ta ke ca re that he be expeditio usly serv ed ; and tha tof the la tter to kee u the ﬁre for which p p ,

W na ns s u v n o r

h Vin larly no ticed in the wines of some Frenc tners,

who hav e esta blished themselv es in thi s co untry , where their industry does not remain unrewarded .

he ime of m crossin t D on we wer At t t y g he , e nearly swept into the ri v er by impetuous g usts of wind acco m anied v iolent showers o f rain a nd , p by

hich av e a mos fri htful a s ect a fall o f snow, w g t g p

to the ste es into which v er soon after entered. pp , I y he f er I remo v ed from e ca i ta l ho rses T arth th p , ,

s ost- ho v els ev er thin eca me ra duall road , p , y g b g y worse ; a nd such i s the zig zag which the roa d

v i nu ta kes, to a o d the g rea t mber of marshes in the nei h ourhood of tha t ci t tha t thou h I ha d g b y, g tra elled sev eral le ues whenev er looked a ck v ag , I b , a nd the a tmos here clea red a little I still sa w th p , , e hei hts of Tcherka ske as if had not a dv a n e g , I c d

It ea sil be concei v ed wha t a werst. ma y y a plea sa nt nig ht I must ha v e had in crossing those deserts with such ba d horses and such dismal

ea v in it entirel wea ther. L g y to the ca re of my neg ro to see thefeu ille de p aste sig ned and reg i s tared a t the v ario us rela s we met in o ur wa y y , I scarcely quitted the carriag e till the ev ening o f the 26th when we arriv ed a t Seredm Ye uerlik , y g , where those coming fro mPersia towards the D on

re o li ed to rf m a hi s a b g pe or qu rantine. T pla ce forms the bounda ry of the g ov ernment of Tcher ka ske, and tha t of the Ca uca sus. n or: w a s v a n H ALE N. 97

Whilst I wa s waitin for a chan of horses e 0. g g ,

' “ m n hav in a more ma rti al air ff t a , g , a di erent cos

tume, a nd mounted on a ﬁner horse than tho se I ha d hitherto seen a roached me a nd said in a , pp , , la ng ua g e whi ch I ha d much difliculty in under;

ta ndin tha the wa s cha r ed with off rin s g , g e g me an

escort a. roffer which I declined a cce tin a s , p p g , I did no t contempla te I wa s i ncurring any dang er t v elli n wi The a ov e w by ra g thout it. b pla ce a s

the la st ost- house serv ed ossacks the Tcherk p by C ,

sses o r ircassians to whom the chief who had e , C ,

ust s oken to me elon ed ein now the eo le j p b g , b g p p

d wi th this care entruste .

The costumeof the irca ssians which ha s C , been g enerally ado pted by a ll the inhabita nts o f this

a t o f the a u a sus i s extremel sim le and p r C c , y p

I of ort lo i m marti al . t consi sts a sh c th tun c of so e

ht colour ﬁttin to the od with lo n a nd lig , g b y , g

v n i r wide slee es. O ea ch s de o f the b ea st are

la ced s mmetricall sev eral sma ll tu es to con p y y b ,

tai n ammunition, more or less orna mented . On

the head the wea r a v er li ht fur ca and a lon y y g p, g

ho od to ro t e f heir wide p tec th m ro m the ra in . T trowsers resemble those of the Ma me]ukes ; a nd their arms consi st of a dirk and a pistol a t the

belt a da ma s i né sa re han in a t the side , qu b g g ,

- l a nd a on but li ht un with a sho ulder e t. l g g g , b

Their horses ho u h lean are stron li ht and , t g , g , g ,

v o n . 11 98 nu ns -ri v e o r

l and their acco tremen unstab e, u ts are extremely f w ik or ar. e the A s e well adapted L rab , they us

tirru s a s s urs and carr a small . whi their s p p , y p fastened to their wri sts, which does not a t all seem

nv enience them a nd which the seldom la to inco , y y

ev en in thei r ho uses. he smoke a reat aside, T y g s ll i e like the restof the eo le deal with a ma p p , p p

heir co a re no t of the Caucasus. T untenances

ds fter a ssin Ye uerlik are n t The roa , a p g g , o

than those we had ust left a ltho u h much better j , g

the service of the posts wa s ra ther impro v ed. On the follo wing da y I ha d rea so n to reg ret ha v ing The fo did no t ermit m refused the escort. g p e to

di sting ui sh any objec ts ; but soon a fter da y - brea k

- f I heard musket sho ts no t a r dista nt, and immedi a tely after sa w a Tcherkesse coming towa rds us at

ha d ali hted from he full allo . t ca rria e g p I g g , a nd loaded my g un to defend myself in ca se o f an ta ck intendin to ma ke a kind of a ra f at , g p pet o

he v icle when he a roa ched me a nd a v e me t eh , pp , g to understand tha t he had been ﬁg hting wi th an

d towards a o st stationed a t a hort retrog rade p , s

distance in our rear, and soon after l sa w the i our er w o was on h s wa to St. etersbur h c i , h y P g ,

100 n a na a rrv n o r

eor ia which had elon ed to the cor s o f G g , b g p ' t e orders o f ount orontzoﬁ who a under h C W , h d

‘ In this la re s m s lf j ust left France. p ce I po ed y e fo r the ﬁrst time since my departure from Nijnei

On the ev ening of the follo wing day I a rri v ed a t o do k The roa d fro m orone e to thi M z . W j s

l i s ordered o n ea ch side ro ws o f trees p ace b by ,

a re all the roa ds o f the em ire whether oo d a s p , g o r bad exce t o n the ste es a nd remarked , p pp ; I tha t a ll the trees were o f a n e ual hei ht a cir q g , cumstan ce whi ch prov es ho w well the energ etic o rders of Alexander a re observ ed thro ug ho ut the empire. Mo zdok is situa ted on a plain on theleft ba nk o f the i v er era k which winds throu h thos r T , g e

r v a llies. It has its sou ce in the bosom o f the

a uca sus an em ti es itself into the as ia n sea C , d p C p , fo rming o n tha t side the bo undary between E urope

s l a nd Asia . The mal number of noble famili es in this countr of who m some a re na tiv es o f Geor ia y, g , a re sunk into such a horri le sta te o f mi s r t b e y, ha t

the a re confo unded with the o ula ce o win to y p p , g their inha biting a country almost entirely peopled

As throug hout the Russi an empire all relig ions l ra ed th a re to e t , e Jesuits, who a re themselv es the mo st intolerant . and who know o w r ﬁt f , h to p o o D ON J UAN VAN HALE N. this freedom in ev er corner o f the world hav e y , some yea rs since formed a n esta bli shment a t Mo z~ dok where the had alwa s a a rtments re , y y p p pa red fo r a ny ca tholi c tra v eller who mig ht pa ss thro ug h

Mo zdok . Hav ing presented myself to the milita ry comma nda nt of thi s cit a n y, d lea rned from him tha t Genera l Yermo lo w wa s then in the co untry of the Tchetchenki s a ro v ince no t v er di , p y sta nt fro m o dok o n the no th rn h M z , r e side o f t e Ca ucm sus a nd tha t to roceed thit er , , p h , I should be oblig ed to lea v e my kibitka and v a rio us o ther thin s here e ed him w g , I b g g to info rm me here I mi ht de o sit them until m r turn when he re g p y e , ferred me to the ho use belo ng ing to the mi ssio n o f the Jesuits, in which he sa id mo st of the o fﬁcers

r v elli n thro u h were the ha it of lod in a s t a g g in b g g , ' itaﬁ o rded conv eni ences whi ch were no tto be fo und

wa s no t in any of the ho uses of the na tiv es. I much incli ned to a v ail myself of this informa tio n but when I v i sited the ho use where I was to be

rtered the int lera le bad smell ﬁlth vermi n qua , o b , , ,

d mi r hi ch the famil wa s surrounded an se y by w y ,

ll m want o f co nﬁdence in the ho st a nd a bov e a y , i nduced me to a pply a t the ho use o f the Jesuits . Here I wa s receiv ed v ery civ illy by o ne o f the

it f w i h he mi sion wa s co m osed two Jesu s o h c t s p , his companion being then absent on hi s profes

duties tha t i s confessin the ca tholics who sional , , g 102 NA R R AT IVE o r

were serv in in the a rm . resent ho st w g y My p , ho wa s a na ti v e o f a mur a dv a nced in a e but v er N , g , y

a ctiv e immedia tel shewed me an a a rtment , y p , which wa s clean and nea tly furni shed . In the ev enin he aid me a lon v i sit in which lea rned g p g , I

ha his na me wa s enri tha t he had emi ra t t H , g ted fro m France a t the time of the French Rev olu tio n ha d since v isited ma n distant co untri es a nd , y , ev en hin a nd had a t len th settled a t the fo ot C a , g of the Ca ucasus. Tho ug h he a ppeared to me a ma n f ree from re udice did no t thi k ro er p j , I n p p to rela te m a dventures to him y .

Th u l me f this cler ma n e h mb e co stu o g y , the extreme simplicity of his o wn abode compa red wi th the mfor of m a a rtment hi s v aried a nd co ts y p ,

e in hi s fa v ut ercei ved ha t n tw h-s m o ur ; b I p t , o i t standin his una ssumin ma nners he was t g g , be ter instructed i n the milita ry Opera ti ons of General

‘ Yermolo w than ev en the commandant- a t- a rms

ms l rom him l hi e f. F I earned tha t the g eneral ih - chief had some months since quitted hi s usua l residen e a t Teﬂis and wa s directi n in c , g person the o era tion8 a ai n tthe Tche enki s whose p g s tch , hostile spirit was hig hly injurio us to the whole li ne of the

era k es eciall to the roﬁta le li shm T , p y p b esta b ent of

i sla r o wh f ich ha ll her ter s k . K , I s ea f pea In all o ther respects I found Fa ther Henri a

104 n a a na rl v n o r

C HAPTER VIII.

— Arrival at Nam C ossack settlements on the Riv er Tea k —Ac — — count of the Cossa cks of the Tan k Their ﬁdelity Tebeth ‘ na m—Schalkowskoi e— almuc s— Andreiewsk ca ital of the K k y, p — ’ provi nce of the Tchetchenkis Redoubt at AksaxL- The a uthor

’ ral s tent or kiVitka —His address to the oﬁ cers la tely arri v ed — Hi s reception of the author D efea t of the mountain eers and — — their wince Capture of Andrei ewsky Beautiﬁ xl g irl of An

to he u His indefa tig able a ttenti on t d ties of hi s oﬁ ce.

I LE FT Mo zdok on ho rseback a t three in the afternoon of the 3l st o f Au ust follo w d g , e by my ne ro a nd three o ssa cks of the D on who g C , escorted me. The chain of the a ucasus wa s on o ur ri ht C g , a out 55 or 60 wersts distant and ar b , p allel with our roa d which la lon the lef , y a g t ba nk of the Tera k leadi ng throug h fertile tho ug h li ttle popu la ted lai ns to a ur 55 wersts fro m o do k p N , M z , where we a rriv ed towards the close f da o y . D ON J U N v a B a u 105 A n m.

The li ne of the Tera k fo rmerly deserted and da n ero us i s at resen inh the colonies g , p t abited by

f Com ks who l s a ck o setted here a few yea r b ,

a nd who are distin ui sh d fro t e est no tonl g e m h r , y beca use they bea r the na me of the riv er on the ' a nks o f which the liv e u us the diﬁer b y , b t beca e y in co stume a nd ma nners t eir acti vi t in war a l o , h y s

ssin tha t of all o thers. hese colonies surpa g T ,

whi ch co mmence a t a ur and extend alo n the N , g riv er a re continuall ex o sed to the a ttacks of the , y p n i h o urin mo un ta in er w o a v arious oints e g b g e s, h t p

ea sil fo rd the T era k es eciall in autumn . There y , p y i s a mili ta r chief in ev er v illa e who a cts like y y g ,

wi e in civ il ma t r To hi e r v ellers a l s te s. m th t a pp y fo r escort rela s lo d in or an thin else the , y , g g , y g y ma stand in need of The coloni sts are o li ed y . b g to furnish the oﬂi cers a nd the couriers with these thing s upon rather more modera te terms tha n tho se exa cted from the merchants a nd other indiv iduals

who ass thro u h thes colonies p g e .

The costume of the ossacks of the er k t e C T a , h

' a ccoutrements of their horses, a nd their arms, diﬂer

h r h little from the irca ssians or Tc e kess s. e C , e T y

nev er ma ke use of the lance, a s tho se of the D on .

In their houses which a re alwa s v er clea n re , y y , a

seen the a rms saddle ridle c . s mmetricall , , b , & , y y

laced a nd in e ll co tion . p , xce ent ndi r 3 106 xa a na n v n or

he rofess h Greek reli ion and in ev er T y p t e g , y roOm ha v e an ima e to which the rev erentiall g , y y

bo w ev er time the o in a nd o u a s well a s y y g t, whenev er they commence or conclude any ho use

hold aifair o wev er ﬂin his c ustom is also , h tri g . T

ommo The f i ies of c n among the Russia ns. aml these Co ssacks are v ery ho spitable ; they recei v e ' tra v ellers with g rea t a ﬂability and rea dily furni sh them with ev ery thing they want on terms the mo st modera te ; but they are a s fana tical a s those

of the D o n nev er a ain usin the ute sils which , g g n

ha v e serv ed a person of a different relig ion. The escort o f these Co ssa cks may a lways be conﬁ

dentl trusted to a s in ca se o f attack the would y , , , y all peri sh rather tha n a bandon the indi v idual they

a ccompany .

a ur i s lea santl situa ted and e ula rl uilt N p y r g y b ,

as a re ndeed' ll the v illa es o f these colo ies i a g n ,

w h a re al so surro unded walls to uard them hi c by , g

o r ri se The commanda nt o f these laces fr m a su p . p seldo m g ra nts a n escortduring the nig ht: I pa ssed

it a t the house o f one of these coloni sts, the fa ther

of a numero us fa mil who on m arri v a l were y, y

r rni j ust etu ng from their a g ri cultural la bo urs. My neg ro g rea tly attra cted the a ttention of the

colo ni sts who could sca rcel eliev e thathi s co lour , y b

ll hai were na t ra l his occa sioned a nd woo y r u . T

l tB n a na s rrv s o r

ments who l ke tho se had seen atGheor urewsk , , i I g ,

were comin from ra nce a nd were on thei r wa g F , y

In this lace whi h is no t v er considera le p , c y b , I entered the ﬁ rst ho use where I thoug ht I sa w

hos ita le faces and where esta li shed m self p b , I b y

for the ni ht a t the i nv itation of the fa mil who g y,

v ery g ood- naturedly presented me with so me fruits

o f the season he est ev er ta sted in an a rt of , t b I y p

ussia e iall the wa er- melo n which is R , esp c y t , here

v er delicio us av in lea rned fro m the oﬁ y . H g cers

o f the reg iments a bov e- mentioned tha t their de

a rture would soon ta ke lace resolv ed to p p , I pro

On the other sid of he riv er and o osi e t , pp te to

Schalkowskole here i s a redo u t considerable , t b , eno ug h to resist the a tta cks to which it wa s likely

to b t tec a r e subject. I pro ted tha t p t of the Terak

which i s cr ed mea ns of rafts made of wo d oss by , o a nd osiers ; the sing ularity of whi ch wa s g rea tly heig htened by the sig ht of three hundred ca rts

loa ded with rov i sio ns and an e ual num er of p , q b

uffaloes conducted mucks cro ssi n o v er b by Kal , g

with the rea test facilit hese men who a re g y . T ,

a o ut a s han so me a s h ir s althou h b d t e buffaloe , g belong ing to the sa me race as tho se I had met in

the ste es nea r the D on ar no t i n the ha ito f pp , e b wa nderi n like the former but a re esta lished g , b no n J U AN VAN HA LEN . 109

near the erak he are moreov er he most T T y , , t

o edi ent so er and v i orous th d ifferent b , b , g of e

ri es fo und a out the a u u ene t b b C cas s, and a re g rall called u on to furnish t e M with c rts y p h y a , whenev er stores a nd prov i sion are to be trans e ported to v ario us po ints of the Caucasus. Th crossing of the Tera k occupied two days,and it

wo uld ha v e la sted two weeks had not the milita r , y, entrusted with the ca re of the convo di s la ed y, p y the utmo st a cti v ity .

ro ince of the T h i mmen The p v c etchenk s co ces,

at thi s oi nt immedia tel on cro ssin the er k . p , y g T a It is i nhabited by a ﬁ erce and unmanag ea ble

eo le the rea test a rt o f whom a re free oo ters p p , g p b ,

o herea fter heir i and of wh m more . T cap ta l is

lled Andrel ew or Andrei ewsk where we ca , y, ,

l a rned the Russia n troo s had esta li shed their e , p b

- uarters after ha v in com letel routed the head q , g p y

n s s w r mo untai eer . A e we e oblig ed to proceed a t

the same ace wi th the uffaloes our march was p b , na turally slo w but the picturesque v iews which the country offered a t ev ery step compensa ted in m mea sure for the iousn s so e ted e s of o ur journey . To wards the close of day we arriv ed wi th this si ng ular ca ra v an a t a redo ubt (no t far from a

’ s a ll v illa e ca l ed ksai whi ch w m g l A ) , as but a li ttle time back the mo st adv anced fortiﬁed po sti n this 110 n a nna rrv n o r

vi ted several of us to ta ke o ur punch with him,

i v i s la ce w and rece ed 118 n a subterraneo u p , here he said he had liv ed sev eral years wi tho ut his All th health ev er ha ving suffered from it. ose

no other dwelli n s were seen a ov e but the tents g b , belong ing to the battalio ns we ma rched wi th.

n he h - rea k we commenced o ur O t 5t a t day b , mar h thro h untr to the ea ut and c ug a co y, b y v ariety of which no pen could ev er do justi ce ;

d the follo win da towards ev enin we an on g y, g , n approa ched Andrei ewsky . Before reachi g the cit the tro o s halted and suddenl formed when y, p y ,

I fo und tha t th eneral- ia - chief Yermolo w had e g , , , unacco m a nied a n one a dv anced on foo t to p by y ,

‘ meet this col mn As all the troo s of hea d u . p

ua rters the oﬁi cers on the staff and the enera l q , , g inc-chief himself were biv o uackin efo re An , g b

' drei ewsk the a tta lions whic h y , b h ad j ust arriv ed also itched their tents ere I p th . wai ted till the foll owing day to present myself to the man whom I was mo st anxious to know ; and mean time pro ﬁting by the kind inv ita tion of the major o f one of the re iments with wh m I ca me I s ent the g o , p ni htin hi g s tent.

The ca nno n noun an ced the da wn , and I then

eheld fro m he ca m whi l v b t p, ch stood on an e e ated

112 NARRAT I VE or

a nd making humorous compari sons between the

h ca m ai n a nd tha t of the Ca ucasus a s Frenc p g ,

i v rsi of ec s o ffe a c well a s on the d e ty obj t red by e h .

his disco urse I o serv ed the countenances During , b of tho se by whom he wa s surrounded (among

were o fﬁcers of rea t merit and i t a v whom g ) , g e me plea sure to see tha t they were expressi v e of

i cere a ttachment a d res ect sentiments whi c s n n p ; h,

‘ n the milita r cla ss a re enterta ined o nl f amo g y , y or

h se who in the midst of iv oua cs la v ish the t o , b ,

noblest sa criﬁces to their co untry . Yermolow appeared to be abo utforty years o f

e He i s a v er tall man but well ro o rtion ag . y , p p

ha s a v i oro us constitution a nd a n a nim ed ; g , a ted

the ex ression of whi ch a countenance, p t once

stamps him a s a man of superio r mind . When he

r ce v ed us he wo re a milita r frock - coa t wit e i , y h a

ed sta ndin collar e aul ettes a nd the ri a nd of r g , p , b

. r e h - the order o f St Geo g a t t e button hole. On

hi s bed la a sa re a nd a fora in ca which y b , g g p,

com leted hi s usual ca m a i n h en he p p g dress. W t

ofﬁcers retired he motioned m m I , e to re ain . had observ ed him suﬂiciently to be con vinced tha t I mig ht di spense with deli v ering my letters of te io commenda t n to him, unless he himself alluded

to them. The eneral a fter con r tula tin me g , g a g on m safe a rri v al a nd welco mi n me t he d y , g o a

uarters entered u on the su f m re iment q , p bj ecto y g , non J VA H LE UAN N A N. 113

which he represented a s being in the bestpossible

condi tio n tho u h in a sta te o f ina ctiv it o win to , g y , g the kind o f warfare in which his a rmy was a t

resent en a ed in a mo untaino us co untr where p g g , y, no reg ula r ca v alry troops co uld be employed to

v nta e the countr i tself furnishi n uch ad a g , y g s horse men a s they stood in need o f. I expressed a wish

to render m self more useful and took m lea v e y , y f him ha v in ﬁrst recei v ed an inv ita tion o , g to dine

m o n tha t da with hi y .

hree da s efore o ur arri v al a t An r lewsk T y b d e y , a v icto ry ha d been obtained ov er the united forces

of the co untr co mma nded f th ir rince y, by o ne o e p s,

who a a ndonin in hi s defeat the ca m nd th , b g p a e

ca ita l the wounded a nd the di s ersed ha d r p , p , e trea ted wi th the rema i ns o f hi s a rmy into the f almo st impenetrable fa stnesses o the mo untai ns.

ca ital which i s sa id to conta in more than The p ,

nt tho usa nd inha ita nts all aho meta ns ha d twe y b , M , b een entirely ev a cua ted by the peo ple a t the a p proa ch of a n enemy whom they ha d so g rea tly

exa s era ted . A ri est and a few old men who p p ,

ad ta ken refu e i n a mo s ue were the nl h g q , o y

ns found i n the cit perso y . Yermolo w issued orders for the troops to bi

c before the cit a tthe sa me time v oua y , strictly

ddin a n soldier to enter it an ca usin fo rbi g y s , d g hi s concili a tory intentions to be made kno wn to 114 NAa nA 'rrv n o r

th fri htened inha itants throu h the medium e g b , g of the old men who ha d been fo und in the

mos ue. his inv ita tion oined to the num er q T , j b less inco nv eni ences they were exposed to in the mountains roduced the desired effect and the , p , wanderers v ery soon beg an to return to their

homes.

On the mornin after our arri v al orders were g ,

iv en to some a ttalions to occu the cit n g b py y, a d the hea d- quarters transferred their residence from “ their kiv itki to a tower conti uous to the mo s u g q e, and situa ted on the most elev a ted spot of the cit efore which sev eral ﬁeld- ieces w r l y, b p e e p aced, more with a v iew to intimida te than for any hos tile ur ose for it was o serv ed tha t amon the p p ; b , g

a mili es who returned there were scarcel an f , y y m n a circumstance which ro v ed e ther mistrust e , p i or wa rlike intentions.

The dinner inv ita tions of General Yermolow during a ca mpai g n are perfectly unceremonious ; indeed so much so tha tthe uests are often i n , , g g o

n of the recise dinn r- our In o ur wa to ra t p e h . y ’ e eneral s uarters m comra de and m self th g q , y y , wishi n to see somethin of the cit wa lked g g y, throu h sev eral streets in one of which we oh g , v w ut o f a alcon ser ed t o women looking o b y, and

‘ In Al ls the boul el of noblm m called towers.

116 NA nnA'rrv r o r

erf f m Her of a a more p ect or . dress consisted

sho rt white tunic almo st tra ns a rent fa stened p ,

l at the throa tb a cla s . A v eil ne li entl o n y y p , g g y

w v r o n h ulde t thro n o e e s o r, permi ted pa rt of her s H bea utiful ebony tresse to be seen. er tro wsers

w n el ﬁ n ti ssu and her socks o f ere of a extrem y e e,

the s d The old ma n re mo t elica te worM anship. v h cei ed us in a room adj oining the stai rca se . e wa s seated o n the ca r et smokin a sma ll i e p , g p p , a ccording to the custom of the inhabitants of the

u He m e a ca sus who cultiv a te to a cco . ad re C , b

ea ted si ns to us to sit down tha t i s to sa in p g , y , the Asia tic ma nner a o sture extremel incon , p y

v enient for tho se who like o urselv es were l n , , o g a nd ti ht tro wsers whilst the two ea utiful women g , b

o n thei r side ea rnestly seconded hi s request. We

com lied with i t tho u h it was the ﬁrst time that p , g f us h ma de he he ei ther o ad t essa . T la di es y ,

v in left the roo m for a mo ment return w ha g , ed ith

lv er o f dri ed frui ts a nd a ev era e a sa , b g ma de of - sug ar and milk but I wa s so mu

admirin their ersonal a ttractions that I d g p , pai but littl e a ttention to th r nt I a ear eir p ese s. t pp ed to me an inconceiv able ca price of Na ture to ha v e pro duced such prodig ies of perfection amidst such

“ rud an ar o s eo le who v alue their a e d b bar u p p ,

women less than theiro stirrups. h th a sh r time durin Havi ng remained wit em o t , g v 1 D ON J U AN A N HALE N. 17 which they repea tedly carpi -eased their alarm a t the si ht o f the milita r who were seen a out the g y, b streets we endea v oured to uiet their a rehen , q pp

sion s a nd reco mmendin the soldiers to ro tect , g p

them from an insult we left the house to whi h y , , c

I sho uld often hav e returned durin m so ourn , g y j

' a t Andrei ewsk ha d it no t een tha t we were y , b ’ r e h o m total strang e s to a c ther s anners. We

lea rned a fterwa rds tha t thi famil w n , s y ere ot

a ho metans but elon ed to those w w M , b g Je s ho had settled many centuries back in the Can

ca su5 .

As we roceeded thro u h the streets we met p g ,

umero us fa milies in i r ho mes n return g to the , a mong w hom we sa w ma ny bea utiful ﬁg ures half

v i A n i wsk i s the onl manufac e led . s A dre e y y

turin town of T chetchenki s a nd the wealth g the ,

iest the fea r of ha v in their ho uses lundered , g p

induced the i nhabi n s to return to the cit for ta t y ; , altho ug h the Russia n soldiery a re al wa ys obj ects

of ha tred to a ussulman as the ha v e the re u M , y p ta tion o f nev er exerci sing the v iolences a nd out

ra es so co mmo n a mo n these a r a rous na tions g g b b ,

the male o ula tion o f the cit tho u h a s ealo us p p y, g j

o hei wm r f t r o en a s the est o f the Asi a tics, sent

th m ﬁrst deferrin till the la st moment their e , g

o wn return which the eliev ed would rov e , y b p 118 NAn a A'rrv n or

ta h t e assa ina ions ro eries a fa l to t em; h ss t , bb , nd

e ies o ev er ki hi h he h d hither cru lt f y nd, w c t y a to

d with im unit s n l excitin th r committe p y, tro g y g ei

ehensio s appr n . ’ On rea chin e ener l u te s we fo d g th g a s q ar r , un tha t the dinner had been ready a n hour ; but a s he was on this da y eng a g ed in prepari ng his

des a t hes for the m ror i which he usu p c E pe , n ally g av e the most circumstantial accounts o f the ope

rations of his arm we still fo und time to s are. y, p

en ra l Yermolo w usuall calle h s ch G e , y d by i ris ’ tian na me Al exi s Petro witch i s alwa s hi , , y s o wn

ecreta r confida nt and counsello . hilst thi s s y, , r W i ndefa tig able chief wa s thus eng a g ed in his nu mero us duties, I walked with sev eral o fficers in the a rden elon in to the to wer which ein g b g g , , b g on an elev ated situa tion co mma nded man fine , y

s In the mos ue which i s conti uo pro spect . q g us to the to wer and in which an o stin te resi sta nce , b a was ma de the enem I icked u so me ch by y, p p pa r ments fro m ecca to ma ke e n to the M , a pr se t ui o f o Jes t M zdok .

On o ur return to the di nin - room I sa w ma n g , y

The Russians wha tever be their ran call ea ch other their , k, by hristi an er h on t mention C names ; thus, if even a drumm as occa si o ’ the eneral - - a i tch g in chief s name, he alwa ys s ys, Alexe Petrowi , whi ch in R ussian means, Al exis son of Peter.

120 NAR RAT IVE or

ene l Yermolo w from hi s outh thathe a lwa s G ra y , y to k the reatest lea sure in literar ursuits o g p y p ,

d l read in the cla ssics I i s no s a nd is eep y . t t ur

rl sm then if with hi s studio us ha its he p g , , , b , s o uld detest oth drin kin and am lin the h b g g b g , la st o f whi ch so d i fﬁcult to re ress a mon hi , p g s

countr men he nev er tolera tes. ndeed it is y , I , the onl thin in whi ch he i s intolera nt articu y g , p la rly if he feels any esteem for the person ad? d dicte to this v ice.

n the ev emn when the friends who fo rm I g , his societ withdra w a nd his occu a tions ermit it he y , p p , returns to hi s boo ks a nd pa pers and a s he nev er u es a w tch h seldo m uits hi s studi es till the s a , e q se tr sta tioned nea r hi s windo w who i s ur n y , p

osel l ed here hi s friends reminds him of p y p ac t by , the la teness of the ho ur the noise he ma , by kes

‘ when he i s reliev ed . H e then throws himself on hi s couch and efo re the cannon , b announces the da wn he i s alrea d o n foo t a nd v isi n ti the m . , y , g ca p Such i s the inv a riable conduct o f a man bearing

' the wei hto f a multitude o f cares fa ti ues a n g , g , d re s onsi ilit in the most extensi v e d p b y, a n compli ca ted ov ernmentof the ussian em ire es eci l g R p , p a ly

‘ a t the time when its southern frontiers are in a s a te o f T t he l t insurrection . o rea t t so diers a s if they were his o wn brothers ; to spare thei r blood E 1 1 D ON J UAN VAN H AL N . 2

s much a s ossi le a nd insure a nd consolida te a p b , their successes ; to ma ke himself lov ed and re spected by all those under hi s orders ; to be

either ra sh nor timi d as sa s the a tin mo tto o f n , y L his co a t o f arms —such i s Alexei Petro witch to

hi s fri en ds and his enemies.

VOL. 11. 122 NAna A 'rl v e or

CHAPTER IX .

e be and Elborus mountains of the Caucasus —D escri ti n Th Kas k , p o of the chain of moun tains—Character of the mounta in tri bes — Their love of war and pillag e The Lesg hi s—Barbarous ha bits — — of the Tchetchenki s Their poniards The Ametinians—H er — t . mits Ka ba rdines, ac tivi y of thi s tribe in warfare Lesg hi Tar

sion of the Rumian power.

T return new to the su ect of the a o bj C uca sus. Thi s prodig ious barrier between Europe a nd Asi a offers o n ev ery side the mo stv aried a nd picturesque

The two rinci al un w scenery . p p mo tains hich

i siv crown th s exten e chain are the Kasbeck , ri sin in the form of a su ar- loaf a nd etern g g , ally cov ered with snow, and Elborus, which i s a few lea ues to the ea st fro m the form The rea dth g er. b

f s ch in differs consid a l but ev en i n o thi a er b y ; ,

n art it is ore h wo hundred its arrowest p , m t an t

124 NAR R AT IVE o r

t mselv es and ha v in an i nv etera te ha tred of he , g

h o ther ha v e een stra n ers to the eneﬁts of ea c , b g b pea ce from the mo st remote periods of a ntiquity : They a tta ck with a fury and impetuo sity n u

v i kno wn e en to the mo st wa rlike na tons, a nd re

si st with the utmo st des era ti on o ften in heir p , , t

defea t itin o ff their to ues thro u h ra e at , b g ng g g

m e h w the di sa o int ent. V n eance o ev er i s the pp g , ,

redo mina nt a ssio n o f these mo untai neers who p p , , if before dying they should ha v e been una ble to

ra tif i t e uea th it in their la st a o nies to g y , b q g

h ne re r l their children or t eir a st e a tion s, and thi s bequest i s con sidered by them a s a di v ine

The a uca sia n im elled hi s lo v e for illa e C , p by p g ,

which i ndeed i s his onl means o f su ort fo llo ws y pp ,

hie who ra i se - the ﬁ rst bold c f s the wa r cry . In the

‘ o f his im etuous a tta ck he i s seen co n a rdo ur p , fo unded wi th hi s lea der a nd sha ri n all hi s dan , g

ers but like the corsai rs if he rea no real g ; , , p

ro ﬁt hi s excursion if he lo se a ll ho e o f o o t p by , p b y, he a bandons him with as much indifference as he shewed ea er ess to follo w him Al wa s unce g n . y rta in of hi s o wn existence he i s a stra n er to the lea , g p sures of domesti c life. Pas siona tely fo nd o f his

ersonal i nde endence he i s no t linked an p p , by y moral feeling to tho se bea utiful wo men wi th whom he li v es, nor to the innocentchildren to who m he A L N 125 D ON J UAN VA N n n .

i The rea est art of. the inha has g i v en be ng . g t p bita nts of the Ca uca sus nev er conceal their wo men

m u lic v iew wha tev er he the reli ion the fro p b , g y profess ; (a custo m so rig oro usly observ ed in Per sia a n d in so me ro v inces whi ch a t resent elon , p p b g

i a o n the contrar the a re i ndifferent to Russ y , y

hemles ha n th ir h ut i for the v alue t s t e orses . abo t, y Hence when old a g e or inﬁrmity co mpels them to a a ndo n their ca reer the eldest so n immedi a tel b , y ’ ta kes po ssession o f his fa ther s a rms a nd a ccoutre ments whi ch descend fro m enera tio n to enera , g g tion , whilst the inv alid v etera n selects the darkest co rner of the ho use where he a wai ts the a roa ch , pp of dea th with a stoici sm which wo uld be v ery com mend a le were it not the result of hi s unci v ili ed b , z

The popula tio n of the Ca uca sus ha s been i n

Th L s h crea sed a t ﬁ v e different e ochs. e e i s p g , who from th rem eriod o f time ha v e o test p e i nhap

ited tha t co untr a nd who still reserv e their b y, p

ri stine ma nners inha it a t the resent da the p , b , p y , mo st ro s ero us rov inces of the a uc u Th p p p C a s s. e

Geor ians the M o n uls the Ara s a nd la stl the g , g , b , y

ta rs a re the o thers w o a v e s i v Ta r , h h uccess ely co n ri t buted to its popula tion . Some of the inhabitants a re still idola ters a few hri stia ns and the ma orit , C , j y

a hometa M ns.

The ri nc ss of eor ia ama r interested in p e G g T , 126 NA n nA 'rl v E or

f hese ri es succeeded in i trod the destiny o t t b , n uc ing the Chri stia n relig io n among sev era l of them ;

u so me centuries a fter when the ahometans b t, , M

v e where their v ictori ous arms h i s ca rried e ry , C r

i nit ra duall ecame extinct and onl a few t a y g y b , y

ruins of churches no w remai n . The rest trans mitted fro m o ne to a nother their respecti v e reli ~

o ns which the still reserv e uncha n ed . The g i , y p g

co tch mi ssiona ri es who so me ea rs a o v i sited S , y g

‘ the Ca uca sus with the View of pro pa g a ti ng the

hri stia n reli ion did no t o tai n t e fa v oura l C g , b h b e resultwhich they ha d a nticipa ted ; neither ha v e the efforts o f the Jesuits een more successful b .

The Tchetchenkis a re o f a ll the tri , bes of the

u the mo s a ddi cted to ill a ucas s t a e. h C , p g T eir houses are g enera lly v ery uncomfortable hov els a skin s rea d efore the ﬁre serv es them for a bed p b , and their food consi sts o f a n indig estiv e ki nd of

rea d scarcel a ked u on hea ted stones and o b y b p , f me t which the ea t a lmost ra w n a y . Whe a Tebet chenki ets an rand which he o nl o g y b y, y bta ins by

lunder a s no ne i s ev er made in this countr he p , y , i s so enra tured with it tha t he eliev es himself p , b trans o rted into d n p a pa radi se o f delig hts. He ri ks till h e i s intoxica ted, and then all the o ther excesses

Hi s predatory life does notallow him to dev ote any of hi s time to ag riculture ; and the manufac

NARR AT IVE OF

ha v e a t their side the manner of wearin it they , g marking the deg ree o f martial eleg ance a mong

' i u v e i s to be them, their usual a ttt de, e en a t hom ,

his wea n i s the most drea d g ra sping its hilt. T po llest lade ful of any used by these men . The sma b

i a foo t and a half lon and ha s two ed es so s g , g ,

v r sha r thati t mi ht serv e the ur o se o f a e y p, g p p

The rea test a rt of the lade i s im re ra zor. g p b p g nated with a v enomous compo siti o n whi ch renders

i ru n ev ery wo und mortal . In ca ses where the r i

ea rs i nev ita le the either lun e the o nia rd app b , y p g p

in ‘ their o wn bo soms o r thro w it with g reat skill at

The co stume of all the northern tribes o f the Ca ucasus i s similar to tha t of the Circa ssia n s or

Tcherkesses.

The Assetinians a re no t such a freebooting ra ce

a s the Tchetchenki s but a ccordin to the re ort , g p

o f ersons who know them well the if ‘ ossi le p , y , p b , surpa ss a ll o thers i n ranco ur and rev eng e ; of whi ch the fo llo win i s a - s im A tinia n ec en . n Asse g p ,

. who se fa ther ha d been murdered while he was still ’ a n i nfa nt a v en d i s . , g e h fa ther s dea th on the a ssa s

sin a s soon a s he fou d no u h o , n himself stro ng e g t co e wi th his a dv ersar a nd ha v in thus ra ti p y ; , g g

‘ ﬁed his feelin s of rev en e arri ed to his ho me g g , c the or han child of the ma n h had s criﬁced a nd p e a ,

. i n d i to the f hild truste t ca re o hi s wife. his c T , D U N V AN E N 1 ON J A HAL . 29

who wa s then but a few ea rs Old rew u i n the y , g p

ho use o f hi s self- constituted tutor who se lood h , b e

then s ilt to av en e the dea th of hi s fa ther p g .

The Assetini an s cultiv a te rice, which i s their

i al food heir ho u s m c . a re rinc . se custo s p p T , , & , the sa me a s tho se o f the Tchetchenki s; Their

a rmsare still ﬁ ner a nd a re e uea thed fromfa ther , b q to son a s the mo st sa cred inheritance ; hence the

' g rea t a ntiquity o f tho se which ha v e frequently

e ta ken fro m them in the ﬁeld o f ba t l If be n te. the ra a cit o f the ersia ns and their redilec p y P , p w m tio n for the o en o f these countries, ha d no t ca used the frig htful scenes of which till the present time Geor ia ha s een the thea tre an d o li ed its g b , b g princes to place themselv es under the pro tection o f

hri stia n em ire the mi ht ein in ood a C p , y g , b g g intelli g ence with the Georg ia ns and the Asseti

i an s who are in o ssession o f all the deﬁles o f n , p the a uca sus ha v e rendered fruitless a n a tem t C , y t p

n the art of ussia to cro ss this a rrier wh o p R b , a t ev er mig htha v e been the fo rce employed to a tta in

On the summi t Of the hi hest rocks it. a rtien g , p larl in the co untr of the Assetinia ns a nd w y y , here i t seems im o ssi le fo r a n huma n ein to clim p b y b g b,

iv e so me hermits o f different reli ions i n l , g , the ca v ities o f the rocks a but where they by no mea ns s end a life of a stinence a s their su erstitio u p b , p s co untrymen pla ce within their rea ch all sorts o f G 3 130 NAnnArrv r. or

rov isions and fe i en ss i n hich these p , ed the dl e w

saints li v e.

The Assetinians enjo y a t present a sta te of

eace huntin and tendin of ca ttle ein their p , g g b g principal occupa tion ‘ h ta d of o dok On ea ch side of t e mili ry roa M z ,

he e rance of the deﬁles re two tri es nea r t nt , a b , kno wn by the name o f the Grea t and Little Xc

arda rofessin the ahometan reli ion who b , p g M g ,

are more skilful horsemen than the Thetchenkis,

and occupy the Asiati c side of the Tera k . Their

r a l n un principal arms a e o g g and a sabre. Some

of their chiefs wear a coa t of mail . They ma ke use of the g un only in their ﬂig ht throug h the

lai ns hen hookin the ridle on the ummel p , w , g b p

Of their sa ddle the mana e their un wi th o th , y g g b

ha ds and turnin o n thei r short stirru s ta ke n , , g p , so g ood a n aim tha t they seldom fail in hitting

he ect o f their mark a t an ordinar di s n t obj y ta ce,

ev en a t full g allop .

The co untr of the Les hi arta rs who occu y g T , . py the g rea test pa rt of the o pposite side of the mo un

ins extends to a considera le i n w ta , b d sta ce to ards

the a hesta n The eneralit Of these eo le D g . g y p p

are di stin uished their industrious ha i ts g by b ,

ma rti al s iri t a nd the rodi ous skill and a ili t p , p g i g y with which they manag e their horses a nd their

r in the s li u i s a ms teepest a cc vities o f the mo nta n .

132 NARRAT I VE OF

enti tled to the prai ses of the enlig htened and Chri stian na tions of Europe,a s it canno tbe dis puted that the g reatest beneﬁtwhich ca n b e dered to humanit i s to introduce civili ation y , z into co untries who se inha ita nts no w wanderers b , ,

no w sla v es and alwa s a t war wi th each o ther , y , pepetually renew the scenes of cruelty of the dark

es di sre ard the ri hts of ro ert o utra e ag , g g p p y, g the est feelin s Of ma n tea r a sunder the closest b g ,

ties o f so ciet and deli ht onl in lascivio usness y , g y ,

lunder an a a ion . p , d a ss ssin t D ON J UAN VAN HALE N . 133

CHAPTER X .

— — The Russi an army in Georg i a M ili tary operations The sets out for Teﬂis the ca i tal of eor it di sci line of the , p G g p ‘ — Asiatic M aps in the Russian servi ce—Schalkowskoi e Fog s — — Clock s denominated Bo urkas M ilita ry conting ents Service by — the ossac s of the D on and of the Terak. Wine of isla r C k , K revi sits the e The author arrives a tM ozdok and J sui t Henri .

T H E Ca uca sus wa s still in a sta te of insurrec tl on m conse uence of the la te wa r between Russm , q

nd e si a when General Yermo lo w wa s inv ested a P r ,

‘ se ro i T with the g o v ernment of tho p v nces. he re ula r troo s no twithstandin the a nnua l rein g p , g fo rcementsentto the di fferent a rmies o f the em i re p , di d no t amount to three co m lete di v i sions The p . co nsta n t intri ues of the ersians who tho u h g P , , g they had subscribed by the la te trea ty of pea ce to the cession of some of the frontier rov inces still ' p , continued to enco ura g e rev olts rendered necessa ry the milit r i f ev ral i m ortant o ints a y occupa ton o s e p p , 184 NAnnA 'rrv n or

and consequently fresh additions to the army o f

i he m eror Alexander who a ccord Georg a . T E p , ing to g eneral opini on wi shed to remov e from the

centre o f hi s states tho se soldiers who on a ccount of their residence in Fra nce had imbibed notions a t v ariance with a ssi v e o edience ordered a p b , g rea t pa rt of the infantry who ha d serv ed under

' the command of o unt oronzoﬁ to roceed to C W , p

General Yermolow who was dail ex ectin , y p g the a rriv al of these troo s uitted Tcfli s the p , q , ca ita l of Geor ia where he left his second in p g , ' comma nd Lieutenant- eneral illia minofi bro , g W , ther to the chief o f the staff, intrusted with the ca re of this ro v ince and cro ssin t e Ca ucasus p , , g h , undertook in person the first o pera tions ag ai nst tho se mo untaineers who inha bited the northern

ide f e a uca sus a nd who se ndu s O th C , la wless co ct

i te co called fo r immed a ercion . The plan whi ch thi s eneral ro osed to follow in o rder to re ress g p p , p their lunderin excursions rotect the troo s p g , p p , either stationar o r transitor the a uth rit y y, ca use o y, which the themselv es sho uld esta li sh o y b , t be res ec d d sh l p te , an e ter their more ho urs fro m their o utra es was means of a g , by chain of redoubts and fortresses establi shed throu hout h o un r g t e c t y . The obstina cy of the Tchetchenki s in persev er

136 N ARRAT IVE o r

o ortunit and left hea d- ua rters on the ev eni n pp y, q g hi s col n c m o s of the l oth. T um wa s o p ed of o ne

tho usand infa ntr a nd three hundred hors en y em , some of whom belong ed to the squadrons co ntri

uted the co lonies o f the era k a nd o thers b by T , were Tcherkesses a nd Tchetchenki s, who serv ed in the ussia n a rm o r fro mAndrei ewsk R y . N tfa y,

after crossin the mo untains there i s a v a s g , which extends witho ut interrupti on a s far a s the

era k Be ond it i s a redo u t where we halted T y b ,

r h i h I had tra fo t e n g t. This wa s the ﬁ rst time

wi h hi s ki The most irres v elled t t nd of troops. ul r uerilla s f the Arm of the a ith in a in g a g o y F , Sp , could no t be commu ed with them so g rea t was A i the disorder noise a nd di s ersi on of these sia t cs. , , p It i s impossible they co uld ha v e been o f a ny ad v ant had the enem no t een a s undisci lined ag e, y b p

as themselv es .

The Co ssacks of the Tera k a re most o f them comma nded durin a ctiv e serv ice o ﬁi cers , g , by

r w from the re ula r d a n g Russia n ca v alry . When

the are with the re ular a rm their di sci line y g y , p a nd subordi na tion equal those of the Russian soldi ers ; but, once uni ted with the mountai neers, the ea sil ca tch the conta i on Althou h I y y g . g could no t understand a word of the mixture of

an ua es of these different horsemen I could l g g , easily perceiv e tha t the secret of the expedition of no u J U N VAN H N A ALE . 137 this column wo uld not rema in lon unrev ea l g ed, on their ecomin a c ua int b g q ed with it.

We s ent the ni ht in the redo u t a r p g b , p ey to co n tinual alarms occa sioned b the ﬁ rin o f a rms , y g ,

d t mult of these As i a ti s a n u c . In the mornin g , w hen the ho ur of our depa rture a rriv ed neither the examﬂe o f the reg ular troo ps nor tha t of the Co ssa cks wa s sufﬁci ent to induce them to collect

r hor es which thei s , , like themselv es, were seen timnin a out in all di rections Th ta k ; g b . e s o f in tro ducing the E uro pean di scipline a mong the

M ussulmans is li kel to ro lwa s unsuccess , y p v e a y ful a s it is a n idea rev a lent not o nl a mo n these , p , y g tri es but ev en a mon the rta rs a nd e P b , g Ta th er

f rri sia ns, tha t the true merit o a wa o r co nsi sts in hi s ersonal coura e a nd tha t the milita r ta ctics p g , y

of their war o f the Europeans are the result co di ce. N o t all the exa mples an d the sev ere lessons they ha v e recei v ed, are suﬁi cient to conv i nce them of the a dv anta es o f di sci line for when the a re g p , y defea ted the a ttri ute it to th di l sur f , y b e sp ea e o

H ea v en.

On the l 1th a t a o ut noo n I arted from the , b , p

olumn with ei ht ossa cks a ssi ned me the c g C , g by

hief of the column for m escort. A courier c y , w ho w s arr in des a tches to the m eror a c y g p E p , a cco m ani ed me a s fa r a s Scha lko wskoi e where p ,

- l ro we arri v ed a t nig htfall. He immedia te y p 1& Ra n t “ : o r

e on his ourne and I aascd the ni ht at ce ded j y, p g vi u lo d the sa me ho use where I had pre o sly g ed .

v r sim le uni orm d fo r the better securi t e y p f , an y

the constzmtl ca rr fa stened to the chest y y y, by

me ns o stra s a lea ther ortfolio wi th a lock a f p , p , , a key o f whi ch is kept at the ofﬁces o f the mi nia

ome co riers ha v e tra v elled f om the a teleg a . S u r

- er of t e u a sus t eters ur hea d quart s h Ca c to S . P b g h

in ten days.

At Schalko wskme, I met a t the ho use of a

ussian lad a oun renchwoman who h R y y g F , a d

a o h h me a t an and follow band ned er o N cy, ed a Russian ofﬁcer of the number of tho se who ha d

la tel arriv ed a t the a uca sus a nd who ha d y C ,

een o li ed to lea v e her a t this l ce fa r from b b g p a ,

o the ﬁeld of pera tions. No twi thstanding her

rett ﬁ ure her national a ilit a nd her stu p y g , mia b y,

died toilet she no means shone in this countr , by y , which may be properly ca lled the n ursery of bea u ti es ; but she too k her rev eng e by sa ying witty thin s and g , making sa tires on the rusticity o f her

riv als.

I left Schalko wsko e n f in da wi th n o the ollow g y , such a thick fog as scarcely to permit us seeing

140 NA Ra A r' rv E o r

a fterwa rds i cqua inted there. I a cont nued mv

o urne in the com an of the la tter conv ersin j y p y , g

n th differento ects we had met in our tra v o e bj els.

All the coloni sts o f the era k who o ccu an T , py w extent of land of mo re than a hundred ersts, a re fo rmed into s ua drons for a ctiv e serv ice in which q , they a re enlisted from fifteen to fifty yea rs of ag e. Besides the esco rts which they a re bo und to g i v e to the conv o s o fficers a nd co uriers a s well a s y , , , o ther local a ssi sta nce which they must furni sh durin the a ssa e o f troo s in co mmo n with all g p g p , the different co untries of the em ire such as lo d p , g

‘ in ﬁ ri n &c . the are bcmnd to kee alwa s i n g , g , , y p y readiness the third art of their milita r force p y , which i s reliev ed fro m time to time by a n equal num er tha t the a ricultural la ours a nd o ther b , g b domestic occupa tio n s ma y no t be neg lected ; fo r the produce of the g enera l industry 18 equally di

v ided a mon them all . hese ssa cks more g T Co , o v er fumi sh to the troo s on the ea s ern side o f , p t the auca sus a contin entof o ne o r two s uadro n s C , g q

er uarter p q .

r Gene al Yermolo w, well a wa re of the adv an tag es which ma y be o btained fro m the g ood dis

ositions of these new colonists a nd wi shi n to p , g i ncrea se the a rtiller ca used so me co m a nies o f y, p

o ssa cks to b forme whose serv i ces I shall ha v C e d, e hereafter an oppo rtunity o f mentioning . D ON J U N VAN H E A AL N . 14 1

The o ssa cks’ o f the era k when the C T , y are i n a cti v e serv ice recei v e a small a with w , p y , hich

the ma na e to li v e and kee their hors y g p es. Here

the bii ild and re a ir their ho uses as well y p , a s

tho se o f h t eir ofﬁ cers and chi efs, which a re a ll constructed o f wood the nei h ourhood furni shin , g b g

a rea t a n v i g bundance. Whe pro is ons are to be trans o rted in rea t uantiti es the ca ttle o f he p g q , t nei h o urin almucks a re ut in re ui siti on to g b g K p q , a v oid the seri ous inj ury which wo uld o therwi se be su stain ed by a colony which may be sai d to be yet

i n its inf ancy .

' The Co ssacks of the Tera k oﬁ er the stro ng est

co ntra st their la orio us ha its ro it and , by b b , p b y, subo rdi na tion to their plundering neig hbo urs of

the mo unta ins in who se a ciﬁca ti on no ne are , p ll h more i nterested than these colonists. A t e

T chetchenki s ho wev er who had esca ed from , , p the route of Andrel ewsky had thro wn themselv es o n tha t side o f the Tera k whi ch constitutes the

fur co untr arties of Co s thest limi ts of their y. P sa cks w ere incessa ntly detached ag ai nst them fro m

the o o site ank who seldom returned from thei r pp b , As excursio ns wi tho ut so me trophies or booty .

w e ded o n our wa we met a t v ario us di s e proc e y ,

hen a ossac is menti oned be i t of the D on or of the W C k , it i s alwa s understood to be a man on horse ac for nei Terak, y b k ;

tin i own countr . ther of them ever serves on foot, excep h s y 142 NAR R AT IVE o r ta nces markets of ho rses ta ken from the enem y, a nd about noon we arriv ed amidst this kind of fair a t a sma ll lac e twent wersts fro m aur , p y N , where m com a nion Yeﬁmo wi tch resided and y p ,

av in arted fro m this ofﬁcer efore sunset H g p b ,

I rea ch a ur a t ni ht and a da ed N g , t ybrea k set off with m es rt for o do where I v ed y co M z k, arri

144 NA R R AT IV E o r his g ov ernment ha d frequently been broug ht to

is untr its nei h o urs the urks a nd he th co y by g b , T t

ersians. cro ssed the era k i n a a r e and P I T b g , a rri v ed ea rly in the a fternoon a tthe pla ce o f qua r ntine where underwent but a sli h a , I g t exa mina tion a s no dang er wa s to be a pprehended from the direction I ca me. From the ri v er Tera k to the foot o f the Ca u ca s 8 ther a re three im o rta n t milita r osts u , e p y p ; n el the redo u t o f onsta ntine whi ch is am y, b C , thirty- three wersts fro m the ri v er ; tha t Of Eli za

t twent - ei htw ersts further a nd the fo be h, y g ; rtress

f la di a uca sus twent - two wersts f o VV C , y rom the

a st v er da a t da wn a conv o consi sti n of l . E y y y, g from a hundred and ﬁft to three hundred men y , and almo st alwa s with a ﬁeld- iece roceeds y p , p from o oint to the o ther a v er necessa r re ne p , y y p ca uti on to prev ent any a uda cio us a tta ck from the

an s O Kaba rdines and cherkesses who o v er b d f T , run the co untr o n ea ch side of the r y oa d . I left the pla ce o f qua ranti ne the next morni ng with the conv oy which did not reac h till . noon the ﬁrst redo u t where w li d to s the b , I a s ob g e pas ni ht in order to r d in h e r f g , p ocee t e sam o der o ma rch on th f ll w T d e o o i ng day . he troops sta tio ne in these redou ts a re v er well lod ed and as b y g ; , these places likewi se serv e to shelter the Arme nian merchants and other trav ellers in their j our D ON J U N VAN H E A AL N . 145 ne thro u h this countr there are inns ke t y g y, , p by

ussia ns or eo le o f the coun r R , by p p t y, which a re g enera lly well pro v ided with all sorts of prov i

sio ns. The soldiers ha v e nea r the redo u ts , b ,

ardens which the cultiv a te fo r the g , y ir o wn use ; an d a s in ev er milita r ca ntonment in , y y R ussia , v a o ur- a ths whi ch a re much in use am p b , o ng the

Russi a ns.

Between o do k and VVladi a uca sus h r M z C , t e e a re two extensi v e lains intersected a lon p , by g cha in o f mo untai ns Of the second o rder runni n , g almo st a ra llel with the ri nci al chai n and p p p ,

' n with thick fo r s cro w ed est . From their summit i s seen the redou t o f onsta ntine a n the line b C , d

o f the era k . Ga me i s so a unda nt here tha t if T b , the g ood order which o ug ht to be Observ ed in a co nv o y did no t prev ent the tra v ellers fro m shoot in the a lone wo uld be a le to furni sh dai l g , y b y

o f red suﬁ cient g ame for the troops the oubt. As I wa s walking a t a short di sta nce fro m the v a n

ua rd o bserv ed somethin dark no t far Off g , I g , whi ch I a t ﬁrst beli ev ed to be some men i n em

ush but which o n a nearer a roa ch ro v ed b , , pp , p

to be a n immense a le ha t did no t offer to s ir e g , t t ,

- thoug h we pa ssed within pistol sho t o f it.

h redou t of li a eth where we a rri v ed o n T e b E z b ,

the fo llo win da i s situa ted in a la in the so il g y , p ,

Of which i s less fertile than tha t of the fo rmer.

V OL . . II 146 NAR RAT IVE or

The ﬁrst redoubt constructed by the Russia ns in

his la ce more than twent ears a o wa s ta ken t p , y y g , , resista n after an obsti na te ce, by the Ka bardi nes who and the Tcherkesses, reduced it to ruin s.

f Kabu dines who are livin under the ro tecs o , g p

tion Of the g ov ernment. Hav ing forg o tten the key Of my portmantea u in the redo ubt o f Ca r: i n it to f stantine, and mento ed one o the o fﬁcers

o d here he s oke to a Kabardine w stati ne , p , ho

to in it to me in a few hou offered br g rs. This ma n

nted himself to me o n horse ack an d w prese b , ore i and ro und hi s ﬂa t la ck ca whi a wh te b b p, ch I wa s told wa s a distinctiv e mark of a Kabardine riest‘ p .

On the follo win morni n a t da - reak the ke g g , y b , y

“ wa s in my po ssessi on ; but the g ood Ma hometan wa s minister, with who m I advised to malte no ag reement lest he should think I mistrusted

ma de me a v er dea rl fo r hi him, p y y y s nocturna l

Half- way between Eli zabeth and Wladi Ca u i us the r v er ﬂow ca s , Terak s a t a sh irt distan ce e n from th road . O the banks Of thi s ri v er a re

hamlets Of Ka bardi nes who thou , , g h

This same mark is worn among the other tri ties of the Cauca sus by the Mussulmans who have been atMecca.

148 NAR RAT IVE o r

' v wi th an escort Of t ent infa ntr a nd two al, w y y

s ks who a ccom a ni ed me a s fa r as a small Cos a c , p

i v ill called Balta where there is a . Assetin an ag e , redo u t in which a ssed the ni ht. b , I p g After cro ssing the Tera k, all the po sts a s far a s the fro ntier Of Persia a re serv ed by Cossa cks

O the D on who furni sh the arm Of Geor ia f , y g

ev eral re ula r s uadro ns mo re or less nu wi th s g q , merous a cco rding to circumsta nces. These men d not onl escort the tra v ellers but furni sh o y ,

m with ho rses for which the a re aid a t the the , y p sa me ra te a s if they belo ng ed to the po st. In all the

ations o f o ssa cks whi ch a re witho utthe redo u ts st C b ,

here i s a wa tch- to wer uilt of wo o d in which a t , b , sentry is always po sted to observ e the surro und m la di a ucasus till a fter ing co untry . Fro W C

in the deﬁles a nd the mountai ns the cross g , escorts o f infan try a re reliev ed a t short di s

a nces the ha in Of redouhts maintai nin a n ac ti v e t , c g

unica tio n a nd contri utin to the sa f comm , b g ety of

hi s from the a ov e la ce to Balta roceeds T , b p , p

alon the ro w Of the mo untains . a nd will o nl g b , y a ttra ct the a ttentio n o f tho se who ha v e not seen the Pyrenees o r the Alps ; but beyo nd tha t

off r f r redou t . ev e ste e s a rodi o na tu e or b , ry p p g y

f t. hen the ri o ur of the sea so n whi h in O ar W g , c the Ca uca sus la sts fro m the month Of Nov ember ‘ D ON J UAN . v A N H AL E N . 149

’ till a rch i s a ssed the usual da s o urne i M , p , y j y s from B a lta to a s ek a di sta nce o f twent - ﬁ K b , y v e

wersts. S ev eral sma ll illa es erched i n la ces V g , p p almo st in a ccessi le are a ssed a s well a s two b , p ,

’ redou ts the ﬁrst Of which i s called La rsko i b , , and the o d a ri al On descendin e sec n D . g th hei ht o n - which Balta sta nds the ro ad the g , ,

” constructi o n of whi ch must ha v e co st immense la o ur a sses throu h stee ro cks amon which b , p g p , g the Tera k ﬂo ws compressed into a na rrow cha n

nel . Be ond i t there i s a na tural a rch formed y , a . ro c k extendi n ei ht or ten a ces and a s by , g g p the r o a d pro ceeds alo ng the bo rders Of the . 1mpe

tuous to rrent its foa mi n wa ters fa ll in sho wers , g ,

scatt ro m hi s eri ng themselv es ov er the ro a d . F t

s oti s seen on a rea t elev a tion the redo u t ars p , g , b L

' kOi w ﬁ s fa r a s aria l a re , beyond hi ch the de les a D

of such a na h ndr d men standin ture, tha t a u e g on the summits of the inaccessible ro ck s which

form them and hurlin do wn missiles would , g , sufﬁce to a rrest the prog ress o f the mo st formi

f dable a rm es eci all a s there is no a v enue y, p y by wh I ma n ich those heig hts mig ht be turned . n y

ar s f ro and form a n p t O the a d, the rocks meet,

archwa whose wi ﬁ ssures and cleft v a ults y, de

i . seem a s if they would ev ery moment obstruct t

« On lea v in these deﬁles ehind and efo re reach g . b , b 150 NAR RArIVE o r

in the redou t Of aria] the Ter k is ain g b D , a ag cro ssed by a bridg e. Opposite to the entra nce of the deﬁle, a nd within a sho rt dista nce of the

rid e rises in the middle of the ri v er a ro ck b g , , , sev en hundred feet in hei h on the summit of g t, which i s an old fortress whi ch for man a es has , y g

i s e B ew comma nded th s pa sag . y pla cing on it a f ca nnon a nd destro in the rid e no human o wer , y g b g , p could cross the Ca uca sus.

If on one side we are struck with a we a t the wo rk Of na ture, on the other we a re no less sun pri sed a t seeing built on such a heig ht a fortress which was rovided with wa ter an a ueduct p by q , the remains of which are still erceiv a le n p b , a d a

l n ri v a u ted roa d descendi g to the v er. On the summit Of the rock the soil whi ch i s ca a le o , , p b f

v a tio n would mai nta in a arri son Of ei ht culti , g g m hundred en .

a ria] in the artar lan ua e means a a te D , T g g , g ; and certainly no na me could be more a ppropriate for this la ce where the tra v eller i s ula rl p , oc y v inced o f the horrible tyranny whi ch Persia must hav e exerci sed ov er Geor ia to o li e h r g , b g e to cut a pa ssa g e thro ug h the Ca uca sus in o rder to co mmu nica te with the empire to whic h its pro v inces now l lo n . ndeed Genera Yermolo w h be g I , a s done every thing i n his po wer to open a roa d thro ugh

152 NARR AT IVE o r

w the wa ers of the era k whic dash ro ed by t T , h i n themselv es fro m a succession of ca scades g , keep up a continual ro ari ng truly a wful i n those

eﬁle rocky d s. Al tho ug h from Da rial to Kasbek there i s only sev en wersts the o ccu ied me fo ur ho urs not , y p , so much on account o f the difﬁculti es Offered by the roa d a s c use m a ttention wa s continu , be a y a ll a ttra cted either the eno rmo us reci ices y , by p p , down which the im etuous torrent rushed and p , whose foa m surpassed in whiteness that o f the sno w whi ch the mountai ns were cov ered r by , o

h div by t e ersity Of sha pes presented by the rocks. The small v illag e of Ka sbek is surroun ded by mea do w land whi h a fford a sture to the cattle , c s p of the few inh i ts Of this la ce where ab tan p , I found a much better lodgi ng tha n I expected a t t e house o f the la te olonel as ek whose h C K b , fa mily i s o ne Of the mo st a ncient of the Ca uca sus ; i ndeed so an cient, tha t it deriv ed its name from the mounta in, and descends from one o f the chiefs o f the Assetinian is fa il rofess s. Th m y p the Greek reli ion and th w e v l h g , e o m n ha e al t e sh ness of the Geor i n females he sent me y g a . T y a ottle of wine of their own inta e which b V g , g rea tly resembled Ma deira bo th i n ta ste a nd colour; and when I went to present my respects v 1153 D ON J UAN AN HALE N . to them and than them for their civ ilities the k , y a ll ra n a wa and hid themselv es a s if the sa w a y, y

M a a rtment consisted of a saloon furni shed y p ,

i n the ro ea n st le and which had een des Eu p y , b

i n ed the col nel who was a man much a ttached t by o ,

to the ussi an s for the rea ter conv enience of R , g

tra v ellers I w to the a h from the . t a s al g e r det c ed to wer a nd di d no t resemblethe la tter either in the

i n terior or exterior f its a ar ents where could o p tm , I see the shado ws of the wo men g liding like pha n

o ms to and fro rom th indo w of m s loon t . F e w y a

d full v i w o n bek who se I ha a e of the m u ta in Kas ,

inin ea k illuminated the ra s Of a clea r sh g p , by y

oon ermitted me to di stin ui sh no twithstand m , p g ,

i sta n ce Of thirt wersts the i ng its being a t the d y ,

sno ws dri he wind which er etuall fted by t , p p y

rei ns in tho se re i o ns and falli n in masses do wn g g , g

r ndi l wa s here told tha t a n i ts pe pe cu a r sides. I ,

n lish tra v eller ha v in re a red himself with E g , g p p

r thi n h tood in need of for the ascent ev e y g e s ,

succeeded in reachin a cco m a nied a uide g , p by g ,

ou the id le Of the mountain but when he a b t m d ; ,

ttem ted to a sc nd hi her the ain he felt in a p e g , p

he chest an ea rs wa s so rea t tha t hewas t d g , m rk li ed to o n n himself with lea v in a. a ob g c te t g , the a nd retrace hi s steps. It is a sserted that n 3 154 NARRATI u or

Kasbek i s o ne a f the three highu t points a f the lo g be. The villag e of Ka sbek conta ins abov e three hundred inha i tants the reatest art of whom b , g p

the ro rietor are shepherds and v a ssals of presentp p ,

- ks the son o l t l l . t Co ss c f the a e co one The par y Of a ,

habita s e cite no a reh n ns ll f them ut x pp e sio , a o

uous to t of the lo rd o f th v il e Hurri g th e lag . ' anes here v er fre ue t ei h r c o nt c are y q n , t e on a c u of

the roximit to the mo untain r o t e reat p y , o f h g O of elev a tion o n which the v illag e stands. ne

here a nd shoo m a a rtment so much tha t not , k y p , withs n n he s li dit with wh c it wa s uilt ta di g t o y i h b , I expected at ev ery moment to be buried under its in ru s.

reak a ltho u h the a ccoun re i v d res ectin b , g t I ce e p g

and althoug h the rain and the wind were both hig h a nd vi olent. My esco rt consisted only of Six Co ssacks belong ing to thi s sta tion ; but i t was

suﬁ cient a s we ha no dan er to a rehend . The , d g pp

a d fro m the a ov e v illa e to o i which is ro b g K b ,

156 Na nnn ' i v s o r

din h excellence o f the ro whi ch ha s a s sta n g t e ad,

' much width a nd so lidi ty a s any in the empire .

ndeed the whole assa e throu hout these moun I , p g g

ins i s so o stru ted du tha t season tha t th e ta b c ri ng , extrao rdinary co uriers sent from Teﬂi s to St.

eters ur h are o li ed to ma ke use of ro e P b g , b g p s a nd o ther contriv a nces to effec t their passag e

o u h thr g these deﬁles. The hea d of the Assetinian fa mily esta bli shed

h r n wh on the summit of St. hristo e a d ose ood C p , g

ll ained b resentin himwi th some ra nd I g y p g b y , a liquor of whi ch the Assetinians are passiona tely

fond a ccom anied me a s far s the redou t a nd , p a b , ,

a s was informed had rendered ma n useful seri I , y

v ices to tra v ell rs articula rl in winter when to e , p y , ,

the rea t a sto ni hm nt of all his hut and famil g s e , y had hi therto resi sted the excessiv e rig ours of Will

in h uns eltered si tuati o n where the are ter t at h , . y

n o w a almost buri ed in the . These ttentions on

hi s a rt a re the more sin ular a s esides wh p g , , b at I ha v e alrea dy said respecting the cha racter o f the

Assetinians it i s not lon n some f , g si ce o hi s coun trymen a ssa ssina ted in the mo st cruel manner a ll the Russian soldi ers whom they could surprise in

h l I a v e t ose difﬁcu t pa ssag es. t is necessary to h all the a v arice of the Armenian merchants to sup

ort with still more a ti ence th n t eir own p , p a h easts the i nful conv e ance of their merchan b , pa y D ON U N VA N H N 1 J A ALE . 57 di ze ; preferring the numberless inconv eniences of

hi s roa d ra ther than i v e the lea s ra tiﬁca tio n to t , g tg

the i nha itan ts of the co untr who mi ht a fford b y, g

them such effectual assi stance, and who wo uld thereby ta ke a n interest in the success of their un derta ki ng s ; whilst a t present i t i s only by the presence o f the troops tha t the mountaineers are p rev ented from plunderi ng them set off accom nied On the following da y I , pa by fo ur Co ssacks and with rema rka bly ﬁne weather to

immense elev ation a t whi ch Kai cha ur i s situa ted , a n d which i s the la st difﬁcult pa ssa g e of the Ca u

us when two ho urs a fter lea vin tha t la ce cas ; , g p ,

excha n e fo r the terriﬁ c ea uties o f na ture t e i n g b , h mo st v ari ed a nd enchanting scenery presented it

lf At the otto m of the reci ices whi c w se . b p p , h e

w ere no w lea v in in the rear a re seen g , sca ttered

a o ut s v eral small v illa es a nd fertile v alle s b e g y ,

w a tered the riv er Ara ua which h s i by g , a ts source

nea r St. hri sto her a nd which ﬂo ws in a n o C p , ppo k In site direction to the era . these v alle s T y ,

w hich en o a n eternal s rin the mildness o f the j y p g , tempera ture formed the moststriking contra stwi th the excessi v e cold which i s feltduring the crossing

o f St. hri sto her ev en in summer a nd in ro C p , ; p

ortion a s we a dv an ed Geor ia urst on m p c , g b y

si ht cov red like A dalusia with luxuria nt g , e , n , 158 nu na rl v l or

ﬁelds and hills oro wned with wo ods o n m n o f , , a y which are seen the ruins of old towers and ancient

r s s v en in the month of e tem fort es e . E S p ber the

irds eemed to annou ce tha t we were on the of b , s n pointof trea ding o n the fa v ourite soil of the Cree u us tor of the Ca ca s . On the long descent of Kaichaur being termi

the li mits between the Asseti nian territory and ’ Georgi a ; and a t elev en o clock i n the morning we arriv ed at P ss anur the rstv illa e or a an , ﬁ g redoubt whi ch i s met with in fo llo wing the co urse of the

Ara ua th orders of which a re l g , e b p easantly T wooded. he ﬁne sky o f Georg ia makes a li v ely im ression on the tra v eller thou h he ma ha ve p , g y ing bo rders o f the Guadalqui vir ; as do also the

The roa d fro m Pa s n sa anur to An anur, a dis tance of twent wersts li y , es also between the v al le s watered the ra id Ar ua on oth sides y by p ag , b of which a re seen a mon w no w g oods, country houses a nd , now the ruins of the ﬂanked towers,

160 RR or NA ATIVE .

ceeded to wards the interior of Geor ia 'I rem r g , a ked a g rea ter resembla nce between this co untry a n d

Andal usia ; the fa rms sca ttered here a nd there,

and within si ht of the roa d erfec l resem l g , p ty b e wha t in Spa in i s ca lled cortijos the picturesqu e situation o f the v illag es ; the fertility of the co un try ; the g a iety of the pea sa nts ; their merry and

continual son s a nd ev en their la ha its whic h g , zy b , their rich soil seems to enco urag e ; ev ery thi ng a ssimila tes the Georg ians to the lo wer cla ss o f

Anda lusia ns.

At a sho rt di stance from nanur after cro s in A , s g

a ra nch o f the An us is the ew ui ldin for b g , n b g

the ua ranti ne which General Yermo o w has q , l ca used to be erected to repla ce tha t we ha d j ust

left and whi i ex emel ell I ch s tr w situa . , y ted

arriv ed a t Bouchet, which is nineteen werste from

Ananur a t sunset and fo und a ood lod in t , , g g g a

e and nt- a t- a rms who kindl i nv i th comm a , y ted me

to s en the ni ht a this ho u p d g se.

Bouchet i s a la r er lace th n Ananur g p a , and

n o s the mo st deli htful cli m I e j y g a te. n the ev en

n a s I tra v ersed the to wn to o the c m i g , g to o ’ ma nda nts residence hich i s ust o utside the , w j

a t s I sa w mo st of the inha ita nts sittin a t the g e , b g doors of their houses form n small circl s some , i g e,

cha ttin merril a nd o thers sin in . The uild g y, g g b in w e comm ndant resided is surro unded g here th a , no n J U N v a A n HALE N . 161

i a n i h w l f by a th ck d h g a l orming a perfect square.

It i s en c i rc led an exterio r aller a nd h s a by g y, a

la r e sa lo o n in the centre and a rea t num er of g , g b sma ller ro o ms ; a ll the wi ndo ws are ung lazed ;

but th e ha v e wooden lin ds curio usl ca rv ed y b , y ,

i n th f n e style o f those o A dalusia . It ha s only

one ﬂo o r the whole uiltof stone the roof i s ﬂa t , b ; ,

and f hi s la ce wa s the ordi r o rms a terrace. T p na y

resid en ce of one of the la st Tza rs. In the saloon wa s h eld the supreme tribunal of a country which

knew n o la w there the rince av e a udi ence and ; p g ,

in imi tion o f the hahs of ersi a exercised ta S P ,

v ario u s a trocio us a nd tyrannica l a cts.

The commanda nt- a t- arms who wa s a. rea t , g

s ortsma n a ccom anied me v er earl in the p , p y y

mo rni till withi n a sho rt dista nce of e khet ng M s ,

which i s nineteen werste from B o uchet. Before

arriv in at the former to wn there i s an extensiv e g , ﬁ f the Ara ua where the eld o n the borders o g ,

ark o f instruction for the a rtiller of the arm p y . y

of Geor ia which i s usuall stationed a t T eﬂis i s g , y ,

Meskhet wa s the ca pital of the ancient Kurt Kur formerl chista n now Geor i a . The ri v er , g , y

ir es its mined walls a nd receiv es the C us, ba th ,

w hi s cit conti nued to be aters of the Ara g ua . T y

t nt for twent centuries till he sea t of g ov ernme y , to Twilis one of its Tzars transferred hi s residence , 162 n a nna rl v z o r

( which in the Georg ian lang uag e sig niﬁes w a rm s rin s an d fro m which edi s ta kes it na me in p g , T , ) ‘ he o f om i wa s t h pe o deriv ing some beneﬁtfr ts ter .

The Geor ia ns referrin to their a ncient confu sed g , g traditions retend tha t eskhet wa s fo unded , p , M by

nea r ed i er a descenda nt of Noa h, who nam t a ft himself choo sin tha t s o t o n account of the , g p unri v all ut f it situa tion here i s at ed bea y o s . T

Meskhet a church uilt of stone which no t all b , the fury of the Mussulmans has been a ble to destroy . The reli ev o s of sev eral g ro ups of a lle orica l ﬁ ures which still exi st thou h a li ttle g g , , g in ured are sufﬁcient to shew the rea t merit of j , g

In a corner of the walls of the rui ned fortress there i s a cha el so small tha tit mi htmore ro p , g p

erl be ca lled a niche which it i s asserted was p y , , , used by the ca ptiv e No no a s hi s sanctuary . The cross ma deof roo m and ti ed wi h hi s hai r with , b , t , which he con v erted the ar iria nd made so Tz M n, a

‘ ' ‘ Ali tha accounts I hav e seen respecting the origin of I eilis n t at it wa ﬁm ed i v stu , h s nd n the eleventh century, by Ta r Ilie

. ex edition solved n uil p , re o b ding that city in the neig hbourhood bin the ancient temples of the M ag i and other monuments of and nh which still exist at T i are r q y eﬂs, mo e a uthenti c prpoq f in

rlierori i n. Itis ro le ther fore ha th ea g p bab , e , t tthe abov e prince was e st of the Tra rs who ﬁxed his residen a v i ﬁr , ce there, and who g e it ts preteri tname.

164 n a nna rrv n o r

o f the to wer he in thi s mean to concea h er , p g by s l

criminal excesses.

Within a few wersts o f Meskhet there i s a s rin which ﬂo w s into the Kur a nd which still p g , ,

re rv s th a o r the p se e e n me of Arma sm Zha la . wa ter o f Arms sm, an idol to whom in a nci en t times the pri nces immola ted the ﬁrst- born o f their v v e a ssa ls. Idolatry ha ing been substituted by th

o s el the ido l met the sa me fa te which in si i a r g p , ml c T s is who now sa w a se all idols t. he Le h s mee g , thi s la ce a a ndo ned descended fro the nei h p b , m g ho uti n mo unta ins a nd esta lished here their g , b a m ushes to sur ri se the a ssen ers wh ther men b p p g , e o r wo men whom the ca rried a wa to sell in , y y

a talia o N r in Eg ypt. A chai n of mo unta ins extends fro m Meskhetto the ro v ince of Imereti a a s far a s the coa sts of p ,

the Black Sea . In these mountains a re seen the ca v erns which serv ed the unhappy inhabita nts of the to wn a s lac es o f concea lment when the bar p , baria ns in their inv a sions so ug ht them a s their

re . ndeed the n i h ur o f eskhet p y I , e g bo hoo d M ha s not only been the thea tre of a trocities in anc ient times, but ev en in our o wn ; a nd, until the a rri v al of General Yermolo w it wa s a lace , p m d ost a ng erous for tra v ellers.

The Kur i s cro ssed a rid e which accord by b g , , in to the o inion o f anti uaria ns a s uiltat g p q , w b 5 n o n J UAN VA N B ALE N . 16

th e epoch when Po mpey wa s in Georg i a . It ha s tw o rea t circular to wers a tea ch extremi t whi ch g y, , i n tho se times must ha v e een sufﬁcien to de nd , b t fe

th a t a ssa e a nd ha v e iv en a rea ter m orta nce p g , g g i p

M esk T o thr e w to het. wo r e erste beyond thi s

c i t the hei hts are left to the ri ht and the y g g ,

tra v eller enters the fertile so il of edi s wh r T , e e I sa w the Georg ia n pea santplo ug hing the la nd with ' three o r fo ur cou es of buﬁ a loes a method whi ch pl , must be a ttributed ra ther to the ro utine of these

men than to the na ture o f the g ro und .

F iv e wersts efore reac hi n Teﬂi s the cit i s b g , y

seen s readin in the fo rm of an u hithea tre p g p ,

o n the anks o f the ri v er Kur a t the extremi b , ty o f

a deﬁle formed two old ra n es o f mo untai , by b g ns .

On the l ft f h follo win the course o f e o t e roa d, g

the riv er i s the la ce o f ua rantine where wa s , p q , I

detai ned but a short time i t ein esta li shed , b g b

ra ther for the merchants who se oods dema nd , g

o ntinual reca ution than for the tra v ellin c p s, g

emeers. 166 Na na a rrv n o r

CHAPTER XII .

L- m Reception of the author by General Willi aminoﬁ Baron Rene — — lramph Father Philip Colonel Ni cholas YermoloE Baron

- — hi f town of Z abeli a Chm Wine of Kd i eﬁ k Sig nchsk, c e

of Tielsw its ra s—Tchitchi v ase s eor i an ri nce , g pe , G g p ’ ‘ lonel of his The author s ﬁrstintervi ew wi th Klimonskoie, the co — — — reg iment D m:ription of Karakhsch Its barracks D etails ra n— or erformed pecting the Russia n army - ! Its org a nisati o W k p by the soldiery—Horses of Ka bards and Ru nwa y—Clin e“: d

’ by a b w Lesg hi Tm u - Tig erkﬂled ln stmckhi g s m Belohnkan a cit of the Ein los—Barbarons trium h evinced , y g a — p by an Eing alo i nterpreter —The knontt D uelling —Anecdotes

- S ortin in eor h ﬁ ers—Yakcu p g G g ia. Amusements of t e o c

mentof - a skdie Colony of Germans established near Teﬂis.

ON the mo rni ng a fter my arriv al a t the pla ce o f uarantine entered Teﬂis an immedia tel q I , d y

the despa tches intrusted to me by the g eneral- in

168 NA R RAT IVE o r

“ fo rt wereta to the ea st o f Tcﬂis. In thi s ho w y , ev er wa s rev ented a n intermittent fev er , I p by , which nev er left me during the eig hteen mon ths I rema ined i n thi s co ntr and which in ﬁ v e w eek s u y ,

m nv d reduced e to a mere skeleton . I a m co ince

' tha t wi tho ut the unremitting a ttendance of D r.

Pri v il h sicia n to the o v ernment the ca res o f , p y g , m excellent friend Renemka m h who trea ted y p , me a s if were hi s ro ther and the medi cines I b , a nd a ttentio ns o f the ood a ther hili the g F P p,

a tholi c missiona r residi n a t edi s who a c ted C y g T , a s m n urse m fev er wo uld do u tless h v e y , y , b , a t rmina ted fa tall On da when it w a t th e y . e y a s e hi hest m ne ro ta kin a dv anta e o f m situ g , y g , g g y a tion sei ed o n m wardro e a nd m urse a nd , z y b y p ,

roceeded a s a fterwards lea rned i n the com a n p , I , p y o f a n Arm nia n to ersia where o win to the e , P , , g estima tion in which they a re held fo r certa in

' he ha rems he wa s la ced in tha t of the o fﬁces i n t , p Sha h ; so tha t I wa s oblig ed to content my self

‘ ' rv ices o f w with the se two D ennschtchi ks, ho m

the colo nel had ust sent me from ara kh ch j K a ,

w o uld sca rcel u h co y ndersta nd my ba d Russian . T wo months ha v ing ela psed witho ut any ma te ri al im ro v ement ta kin la ce in m health a nd p g p y ,

Mili tary servants assig ned to the oﬂicers in the Russian army, D O VA ° N J UAN N HALE N . 169

ﬁ ndi ng unav ailing both the prescriptions of my d o ctor and the incessa nt a ttentions of m , y nume ro us fri ends resolv ed to oin m r i , I j y eg ment. A w arding ly I setoff from T eﬂis on the l 6 th of

e r in the m a n f D ec mbe , co p y o C olonel Nicola s

d who commanded the reg iment of g rena di ers o f Gro usia or Geor ia who se cantonmen , g , ts were i n the sa me direction a s tho se o f mine. I was a lso acccm mi ed a new comrade of mi ne y by ,

Ba ron Un ern la tel arri v ed fro m E urO e who g , y p , w a s roceedin to oin o ur r iment in the rank p g j eg ,

(if ca tai n a nd sev eral o ther ofﬁcers all on p , by , horse a ck a mon who m w a s m fri end B b , g y enem

h i s a nce wi h u hm h w o rode some d t t s. p ,

Our roa d thou h the sho rtest from Teﬂis to , g

o ur lace of destina tion wa s no means the est p , by b ,

’ v n in and a s in thi s sea son, e e this mild clima te,

the countr assumes the a s ect of winter which y p , ( ,

o wev er onl la sts in Geor ia fro m ecem er till h , y g D b

' h la tter nd of annar i t di d not much a t e e J y,) ttra ct ’ ion After three ho urs ride we a r my a ttent . r iv ed ' a t the to wer of rince Cha lakai oﬂ a oun G r P , y g ec

i an who in warned of o ur a rriv al ha d g , , be g , made prepara tions for o ur reception

The rince in his Geor ian coa ume a nd sur p , g ,

unded dants earin to rches ca me o u ro by a tten b g , t

o meet us and co nducted us to a s acious a a rt. t , p p

v o n . 11. 170 n a u a rrv n o r

t e of hi h w de na ted, aro und h wa lls w c as a wi

nue ench cov ered with ea utiful ta estr conti d b , b p y, wi cushions a t the ack richl la ced a nd th b , y

idered and whi ch wa s to serve us bo th as bro ,

to wer in o ur assa e to thi s a a rtment ee ed , p g p , p p , like the nuns in o ur conv ents thro u h the li ds , g b n , a nd chinks of the windows and doo rs ; so that the prince wa s the only one who did the honours

the ho use thou h in a manner whi ch in of , g Georg ia would be considered ra ther as the te caption fro m a fri end than fro m a mere a cquaint

ance.

' As soon a s we sa t down we were a ll furnished with lo n i es a ccordin to the Russia n and g p p , g ian c stom whilst our enter ner ca used a Georg u , ta i lon t le to be laced efore us and ordered g ab p b , su er to be ro u ht whi ch n i ed of s v eral pp b g , co s st e dishes of mea t o r o ultr oiled to ether with p y, b g rice a nd dried frui ts with lent of su ar or , p y g , hone and saff y, ron ; a medley whi ch for a E uro pea n was the most strang e they co uld present.

ith res ect to the la te serv ice m all was in W p p , 8 , the European ma nner ; but a s the noblemen of thi s co untr ha v e no head serv an s the y t, or teward, prince was oblig ed to be constantly supplying the deﬁciencies a nd neg lects of hi s a wkward attend

172 N AR RAT IVE o r

were we reclined o n the cushions a nd resi n , , g ed

ourselv es to sleep . At da wn o f the fo llo wing da y o ur ho st entered

o ur room a nd informed us tha t the c i , a rr ag e a nd horses of o ur pa rty were rea dy ; we too k o ur lea v e

o f him a nd ursued o ur wa a bad roa d , p y by ,

- a cro ss g lens a nd to rrent beds. An ho ur a fter we

a rrived a t Zahoredsk where the a tta li n y , b o s o f

rena diers o f Geo r i a are enca m ed a nd g g p , the si tua tio n of which i s extremely well a da pted to

found a city . The ho use o f the co lo nel i s built on a n excel

lent lan no t onl to a fford enterta inm n p , y e t to the

ofﬁcers o f the re iment but fo r the ho s italit g , p y

which he so rodi all la v i shes o n hi s fri ends and p g y , where he inv i ted my new co mrad e a nd myself to

hi rs the lieu spend a da y . Among s o fﬁ ce tenant

l o f the re i ment the Geo r i a n rince Ah colo ne g , g P

zo ff i s di stin ui shed for hi s erso nal uali ties ha , g p q a nd milita ry merit; ev en a t the a g e of ﬁfteen he

wa s deco ra ted with the Russia n order o f St.

Geor e a milita r deco ra tio n which i n the mo st g , y g allant reg iment i s scarcely possessed by four

iv i nd iduals.

‘ olon l Yermolo w and sev eral o ther oﬂi cers C e , , a ccompanied us a s fa r a s the mead o ws a nd sta bles

lon in to the tra ins of the re i ment a nd soon be g g g ,

- h use o f a na a after we arriv ed a t the po st o M b , D ON J UAN VA N H AL E N . 173

whi ch i s ﬁft - fo ur wersts fro m Tcﬂi s a d w y , n here

w e s ent the ni ht. ost of these houses whi ch p g M ,

a re con structed o f o si ers and co v ered . with cla y, ha v e o nly the necessary pa rtitions for the reception

of the ofﬁcers tra v ellers o ssacks and hor s , , C , se ,

tha t ma y no t chan ce to a rri v e.

' A t da - rea k we ro ceeded on our o urne y b p j y,

fo llo wed two o ssack s who were our esco by C , rt.

The mornin was cold and the fro st durin h g , g t e nig ht had ha rdened the little sno w tha tla y on the

ﬁ eld8 where we o cca sio nall sa w ro u s of s orts , y g p p ’ men . At ten o clock in the morning we arri v ed a t

a m al where we re o sed o urselv es a while an D p , p , d

' then roceeded to Si nachsk whi ch i s thi rt - ﬁv e p g , y

wersts from a n The ro a d etween these M aba . b

two to wns i s toler l ood exce t ust efo re a b y g , p j b

e t t e la tter which ei n situa ted on a hill n ering h , , , b g , ffers a stee a scent The ﬁelds ho wev er a re well O p , ,

ulti a ted a nd ma n of the countr ho uses a nd c v , y y

r h fa rms, which are seen sca tte ed ere and there,

‘ u t resent i n summer their ictures ue m s p , by p q

ua on deli htful ro s ect si t ti , g p p

i a hsk whi ch in the insurrecti n of 1812 S g n c , o

f ea dful de reda tio ns i s the ca ital of su fered dr p , p

v ince of Ka hetia an d is considered a n the pro , importa nt point on a cco unt of its pro ximity to the

es hi arta rs wh inha it the co untr on the L g T , o b y

iv Al nn It ha s a o pposite ba nk of the r er aza . 174 NA RRA 'rrVR on

o ula tion of a out three tho usa nd inha ita nts p p b b , who are protected by a g a rri son more o r less numerous accordin to the ea cea le o r ho sti le , g p b

l v conduct observ ed by their neig hbo urs. The e e a tion o n which Sig nachsk sta nds fo rms a pa rt of a

x ds to cha in o f mo untains, which on o ne side e ten wa rds Tielaw the second cit of Kaheti a an d , y ;

' o untai nous on the o ther towa rds T za rsko i e, a m di stri ct which run s arallel to the a uca sus fmm , p C , which it i s se ara ted extensiv e lains ﬁfteen p by p , a nd twent wersts wide cov ered wi th forests y , wa tered the Ala zann which em ties itself into by , p the o ur t o n hundred and ﬁft wersts from K a , a e y Sig na chsk to the so uthern extremity of the pro

Ti la w far wealthier tha n the ca ital o n ac e , p

ou of its ine ards forms with the la tter a c nt V y ,

hi T t l d in ba rrier ag ai nst the Lesg s. he riches a n s that di strict belon to Tchitchi v a ze a Geor ian g , g

rince educa ted in uro e who tho u h serv in p , E p , , g g in our re iment wi th the rank o colo nel ha d suc g f , ceeded wi tho ut ne lectin his militar duties in , g g y , impro ving his v alua ble inheritance in such a man ner thatfew Georg ian nobles ca n cope with him in

more wea lth. The ra es f Ti ela w are lar er g p o g , succulent a nd delicate tha n tho se athered on the , g f i coast o Mala g a . There i s also throug hout th s

ro v ince a reat a undance of wild ra es which p g b g p , ,

176 NAR RA 'rrv z or v r im r ect in th construction furnish e y pe f eir , sufﬁcient ﬂo ur for the g a rrison a nd resident ’ E uro eans exce t in times o f extrao rdinar p , p y dro ug ht.

a v in descended he hei hts of Si nac hsk we H g t g g ,

roceeded throu h fer ile and u i ul v alle s p g t bea tf y , which extend along the borders of the ri v er

Ala za nn to e o d a r k a h The twent b y n K a h c . y sev en wersts between Sig nachsk a nd this place are

accounted v er da n ero us o win to the ro ximit y g , g p y

of the Les hi s who tho u h ac knowled i n the g , , g g g

ussian ov ernment o cca si nall commit a cts of R g , o y depreda tion which can o nly be repressed by an

a rmed fo rce and a re in the ha it o f l in in , b y g

a m ush to sur ri se trav ellers and es eciall b p , p y

the o fﬁc r fo whose ra nsom the dema nd e s, r y

h ussian e i uette re sums. As t e R tq quires tha t when an ofﬁcer a rriv es a t an enca mpment h h o r a t a arrison, e s ould resent himself in . g p

full uniform and a s moreov er we were to sli ht , , , g ’ a t o ur colonel s ua rters we tra v elled from Si q , g nachsk as if we were g oing to the pa rade ; so tha t our plumes a nd uniforms were do ubly a ttra e

ti v e for the mounta ineers ha d a n een o n the , y b

alert arti cula rl a s we roceeded without n , p y p a

escort de endin wholl u on our arms. , p g y p

The Asiatics do notmake use of mills to g rind therye of which

their bread is made. D ON J U N V A N H E 1 A AL N. 77

mm di I e a tely on o ur arri v al we presented o ur

‘ selves to o ur chief olonel Kli w , C monskoie, ho ,

thou h - g he had been an aid de- ca mp o f the Grand uke D Consta ntine during the ca mpaig ns o f 1813

a nd 1814 did no t u de w rd of , n rstand a sing le o a ny o ther la ng ua g e than tha t he ha d learned from his nurse ; a circumsta nce no t v ery commo n in i Russ a a mo ng the cla ss to which he belong ed and whi h c na tura lly conﬁned o ur conv ersation to a few w o d r s ; but hi s g ood humour compensa ted for

thi s inco nv eni ence which o th , was shared by a n er ' c i ef h M r. Soltikoﬁ who wa s m collea ue and , , y g ,

o ne o r two mo re cer his in ired me by ofﬁ s. T sp with the hope tha t I sho uld ma ke a g rea ter pro g ress in the Russi an la ng ua g e tha n I ha d hitherto

d o ne the kno wled e of i t ein a so lutel necce , g b g b y sa ry to ena ble me to fulﬁl my duties under the banners I serv ed ; but notwithsta nding my g o od

will the de lora l sta e of m health rev ented , p b e t y p me fro m a pplying myself clo sely to this study .

Befo re roceedin further in m narra ti v e p g y , I sha ll here present a slig ht sketch of the occupa

o f a tions, duties, a nd inco nv eniences o f the life

u ia n er i men s R ss ofﬁc n canton t . Ka ra kha ch deriv es its name fro m a n a ncient

cit the ru ns o f whi h ar still extant. The y , i c e

a rr cks o f the s x ca m a i n s uadrons of which b a i p g q ,

i u sia a re com o sed all the ca v alry reg iments n R s p , 1 3 178 NAR RAT IVE o r

v a ki nd of ilitar formed o f themsel es m y c i ty .

u l i line in three div i ions e h o f They are b i t n a s , ac whi ch contai ns two s uadrons and are si tua ted q , o o site to the ri v er Ala zann and to the mo un pp ,

ta i ns fo rmin the front of the uildi n . T he , g b g sta les which are a ra llel with the arracks and b , p b , a t the di sta nce of one hundred aces from th em p , o serv e der o f distri ution and fo rm b e the sam or b , the ba ck In the spa ce that interv enes betw een these two uildi n s a re the h uses o f the o ﬁi c ers b g o , simila rl di stri uted a nd a ll re ularl uil t o f y b , g y b woo d ; whilst on the left of thi s line are the ma

a zines a nd work sho s o f the re iment the cha el g p g , p , a nd the house o f the c ha la in a s well a s the ho s p ,

ita l and the kitchens o f s uad rons. p , q The houses o f the o fﬁcers were built by the so l diers for a sli ht ra tiﬁca tion a nd wit out th g g , h e former incurring further expense tha n the p ur cha se o f the iro n ma teri al s such a s nails hin e , , g s,

necessa r f r h i 8m. y o t e r construction ; so tha t a n ofﬁ cer becomes proprietor a nd citizen o f li m b ha ch a t v er little os y c t.

The co lonel of a re iment in Russia i s ound g b ,

o th mornin and ev enin to kee o en ta ble b g g , p p for a ll his o fﬁcers a the music o f the re imen t , p y g , whether infa ntr or ca v alr defra all the ex y y , y

enses of the ho s ita l o f his ca ntonment and ta ke p p , cha rg e of the handiwork of ev ery arti cle fo r the

180 NAR RAT IVE or

' their uniforms may no t suﬁ er during the ti me the a re thus em lo ed the canno t be reco y p y , y g nized a s so ldiers exce t their musta chios B e p by . sides there are alwa s a ce tain nu er o , y r mb f them employed in the workshops belo ng ing to the reg i ment i n ev er descri ti on o f tra de conse uentl y p q y , ev ery thi ng tha t ca n possibly he wanted m the

r s m d he soldi ers co i s a e t . p , by Iti s by thi s kind of admini stra tion tha tRussi a i s ena bled to mainta in the immense a rmy itkeep s

t resent on foo t and which accordin to the a p , , g sta tement circula ted a mong the v a rio us di vi sion s of the a rm a t the time o f m serv in in it y y g , a mounted to infa ntr ca v alr y, y , twent - six re iments o f artiller thirt - ei ht y g y, y g s ua dron s o f the sa me and twelv e s uadrons o f q , q ‘ sa ers exclusiv e o f the a ssiv e re iments or in pp , p g ,

a rriso n the o ssa ck s a nd a multitude of other g , C , a rm or s em ire ed c p of the p . The colonel Of a reg iment i s answerable to the

m eror fo r the e ui ment ood hea lth and E p q p , g , disci line of the troo s under o rders and as p , p hi s ; Alexa nder was ev ery yea r in the habit of surpris ing in their ca mps o f instructi on some of the

The Emperor Alexander was the first who formed a body of mounted sa r uci n them i n the ppe s. He commenced by introd g uards and fin l established them g , ding their g rea t utility, ultimate y in all r the a mi es of the empire. D ON J U AN VA N H ALE N . 181 di v i si o n s o f his arm where he would ma ke his y , a pp ea ra n c e a ccompa nied by only one of his aid- de ca m s n o ma tter ho w fa r he mi ht be from p , t y g the c a i ta l no chief ev er dared to ne lect the p , g m s 1t in i s i es To thi s ca use the o t ri fl g of h dut .

ﬂo uri sh i n g sta te of his a rmi es may be a ttributed . It i s i mpossible to form a correct idea of the per fecti o n a t whi ch the h v e a rri v ed unless en y a , by teri i n - nto deta ils o heir or a ni ation hi ch g n t g z , w m li mi ts do not ermi ufﬁ ce it to sa tha t y p t. S y , the R u ssia n troops of the presentda y ha v e adopted all tha t i s worthy of imita tion both in the French

scho o a nd in the interior re ula tions of the l, g

E n li sh a rm nd h i s g y a osp tal .

At the hea d- qua rters of ev ery div i si o n of the

a rm there i s lle e su o rted all its re i y a co g , pp by g

me n i n who after nts where s . o f disti cto , yo uth ,

wa rds serv e a s o s receiv e a mili ta r educa p fﬁcer , y ‘ tio n a ssi stin a t the ara de a s ri v a te soldi ers , g p p ,

ith their res ecti v e a ttalions when these are w p b ,

in the sa meca nto nmen s here is a nother insti t . T

tutio n for a di fferent cla s o f o uths tha t is for s y , , or en pha ns . a nd fo undling s whom the g ov ernm t

In Russi a th are n uentl those ouths must ere o ca dets, conseq y y

ﬁrst serve as riv d hr h all he subaltem rada tions p ates, an g o t oug t g before as n i n is made in fa v our of the ce ding to Ofﬁ cers. An except o ’ er r s a es ntries lea ve the ala ce for the Emp o p g , who, as in other cou , p 182 NAR RATIVE o r

er its ro tectio n educa tes at i ts o wn takes und p ,

ense and a fterwards enerall destines to the exp , g y ' topog ra phica l la bours of the staﬂ. ha s two a rmi es one a cti v e and the o t Russia , her

iv e the former for the ﬁ eld a nd the la tter pa ss ; , fﬁ cer o ssess n u for g arri son . Tho se o s p i g b t little

erit a nd tho se who marr es eciall military m , y, p y such a s unite themselv es with persons benea th

r nk a re usuall em lo ed i n the la tter themin a , y p y

v mee . It is therefo re er rare to t with serv i ce , , y

married ofﬁcers o n a cti v e serv ice.

When a n ofﬁcer a rri v es a t his ca ntonments,

wo rkmen of ll tra des a t hi s di s osal he ha s a p ,

' until a ll his wants a re su lied . hus a d ro schki pp T , which is the v ehicle most in use a mong the Bus

si ns and solutel necessar for ev r ef a , ab y y e y chi ,

costs him but a triﬂe, when he furnishes the

w kmen with ma terials. Besides the re i - c or , g t

a ssi ns him two o r three dennschtchiks whom g , they select fo r the serv i ce o f oﬁ cers from a mong tho se pri v a tes who a re not a cquainted with any u who a r f nt i tra de, b t e su ﬁci e for h s serv i ce .

With all these resources, to whi ch must be

added the ra tio n or im f s f h sel , serv ants, and horses an ofﬁcer ma li v e res ecta l rtien , y p b y, pa la rl if a s i s the ca se in Geo r ia he receiv e the y , g ,

a iv en to tro o s on activ e serv ice whi ch is p y g p , dou le that of those in arri son o r in assi v e b g , p

184 NA RRAT IVE o r

belon in to ussia o n the o rders of ersia are g g R b P ,

. lica tel sha ed and fetch a hi her mo re de y p , g price than tho se o f Ka ba rds ; but they a re no t a ble to

resist so much fa ti ue as the fo rmer. he ha v g T y e,

ho wev er a ll the ea ut and ﬁre o f the old Anda , b y lusia n ra ce ; a nd like these ha v e many o f the

i e Ara ia n o r g ood qual ties o f th b h ses. The cro wn allo ws the colonel o f a reg iment one

u r d and twent rou les er ho rse h nd e 9. sum y b p ,

which i s certa inl enea th the v alue o f o ne ca e. y b , p

ir At cially in the i nterio r pro v inces of the emp e.

K rda ho wev er the ﬁ nest horse for a s uadron aba , , q ma y be ha d for twenty o r thirty ro ubles a bov e the sum g ranted by the cro wn ; but the necessity

f a dherin to colo ur i n the di vi sio ns tha t i s to o g ,

sa of rocurin horses of onl three disti nct y , p g y

colo urs a nd the difﬁcult o f inducin tho se n u , y g

‘ nd to the reed o f ho rses civ ilized tribes to a tte b ,

na tura lly exerci se a n inﬂuence o v er thei r price. If the g o v ernment sho uld one da y succeed in

o r ani i n the co untr of the Kabardines a nd of g z g y ,

the Tcherkesses the v a ri us r mi ht then be , o a ces g

crossed with those of the Ka ra wa and ro s y, p p

a ted on the orders of the era k which g b T , by means the same adv antag es mig ht be deriv ed a s in Andal usia with the horses bred a t the foo t o f the o mo untains from Gren da to eda the onl ra ce a Ub , y

in Spain which unites bea uty with streng th . D ON J VA H E UAN N AL N . 185

The clima te of Kara kha ch i s not so mild as tha tof T eﬂi s o win to the eculiar situa tion of , g p the former between the heig hts o f Sig nachsk and the chai n of the a uca sus which rolon the C , p g winter in these plains a month la ter than in the res of unt t the co ry .

Our co lo nel who was a true o fﬁcer of the s ur , p , and zea lo u s for the im ro v ement of hi s cor s p p , always presided a t our o ccupa tio ns a nd a muse ments whi ch in he mornin consisted of exercises , t g on h orseb a ck o r on fo o t com anies o r in the , by p li ne f the dis la of horsema nshi the , o p y p by ofﬁcers ser ea nts a nd cor orals and of the ex. , g , p ,

croi Th ern n wa s s i v i si se o f a rms. e a ft oo pent n t

in the stables a nd a dmi ri n the ood ua lities o f g , g g q

ere tr ined to all kinds some of the horses, who w a

of riv a ti ons a nd to ea t whilst the re ort o f the p , p

isto Our v etera ns the p l so unded in their ea rs. ,

r i n ured to the clima te g eatest pa rt of whom were , and who were the only ca v alry o f the line in the

arm o f Geo r ia ha d rendered di stin ui shed ser y g , g v n ices in the war ag ainst the Persia ns. O the ea ce with this o wer ein co n luded the were p p b g c , y stationed in their resen can n n s a s an ad p t to me t ,

v en d o st heir t the Les his ce p . T pro ximi y to g

ke t them co ntinuall o n t e lert and rendered p y h a ,

th s serv ice thou h useful to the soldiers n i , g , by o m eans pleasant. 186 NAR RAT IVE o r

At nig ht the posts a ro und our enca mpment

’ w r ou led the m v i ce of t e e e d b , q h sentri es con fo undi ng itself with the sharp ho wli ng s of the tcha cala, which a re here so numero us tha t droves of them ad v anced to wa rds our encampmen t to sei e on o ur o ultr as soon as t rew d z p y i g a rk .

The ri v er Ala za nn, which i s within si x o r sev en wersts o f ara khach is forda le a t v ari o us K , b times i n the ear a circumsta n e whi ch rendered th y , c e exterio r serv ice o f o ur ca mp extremely compli ca ted

da rk ni hts a s the la in ext ndi n to t e r on g , p e g h ri v e

d wit thick for s is co v ere h est .

A few weeks efore m a rri va l a nd o n o n of b y , e

he dark ni hts so me tw nt Les his desc nded t se g , e y g e

s d cro ssin the fro m the mounta in , an g Ala zann, succeeded in silently ma king their way o n foot

h co on fo rmed the sentri es thro ug h t e rd by . On

d or o f o ne o f the three s arriv ing a t the o barrack , they po niarded the sentry sta tioned there before

e a d time to i v e the alarm a nd enetr n h h g , p a ti g with the sa me a udacity into the i nterio r o f the barrack where the soldi ers were a slee d s i , p, i tr

uted themselv es ri ht a nd left and lun ed h b g , p g t eir

oniards into the ﬁ rst dra oons the met till the p g y , g roa ns and cries of the dying a nd wo unded a wa kenin t eir comra des the confusion ecame g h , b

n ra l s i ll the es his who could re g e e , e pec a y a s L g ,

i h o h their eards ha d extin cog n se ea c t er by b ,

188 Na ns s rrv n or to the spot they found tha t the intruder was a

si te to o ur enca m ent on the other side Oppo m , of the Ala zann a nd a t a di sta nce of ei ht , g een

r went werste i s the cit of Beloha kan si o t y , y , tua ted

the f o f he a uca sus a nd inha ited h a t oot t C , b by t e

E in slos a eo le who m the Les his kee i n the g , p p g p

most horri le sta te o f sla v er a nd who fo rmerl b y, y belong ed to Georg ia ; but who being too indus h d to their na tiv il trio ns, and a tta c e e so , wo uld

nev er aba ndon it durin the different rev l i , g o utons

which tha t countr ha s under one a nd y g , beca me

t eir resent ma s r e subject to h p te s. Tha t ci ty ca r

ries on a reat trade with edis rin i g T , p c pally in

ourkes which a re manufa ctured there a nd b , ; as

the traders ass thro u h ara kha ch o ur colonel p g K , ,

wh e co mma nda nt o f this i o wa s th d strict, and fro m whom they must obtain a passport for Gent

ia was o li ed to ha v e nea r him a n E in a l g , b g g o,

who understood the ussi an la n ua e a nd serv d R g g , e

r me f a s interprete . This man had beco so a mili

z s ari ed with the ofﬁ cer , tha t the colo nel allo wed

hi i n da we m m to s t a t o ur ta ble. O e y re a rked

tha t the inter reter was a sent a circumsta nce p b , whi ch seldom occurred ; but, a s we were

o ur dessert he ntere the dinin - room in hi h , e d g g

s irits rin i under hi s arm a undle care p , b g ng b , D N J U VA 1 O AN N HALE N . 89 f ull tied which he said co nta i ned a ﬁne w y , , , a ter

melo n for o ur dessert. hi i in t T s fru t, he middle o f ecem er i s co nsidered a rea t delicac a nd D b , g y, w e all expressed a wi sh tha t he sho uld produce i t when he immedia tel untied the undle and , y b , , to o ur rea t h rro r we eheld the hea d o f a g o , b

Les hi who m he ha d killed in ﬁ ht o n the o ther g , g side of the Al a zann durin a s ortin ex edi tio n g p g p ,

i s s t t ion w i h roll on the ta le . u ted a hi a ct h c b D g s , a mo ng these barba ro us mo untai neers wo uld pa ss a s

excellent o ke we all rose fro mt le and retired j , ab , to a no ther a a rtment whilst the E in alo sa t do wn p , g to dinner a nd a t ev er mo uthful he took a mused , , y , himself wi th turn in the hea d which he ke tclo se g , p

hi n hen h r to s la te ﬁrst o ne w a a d t a no t e . p , y

uch i s sa id in uro e o f the kno ut which M E p , , i t is a sserted a ussian chief fre uentl a lies , R q y pp

is o s I shall no t a ttem t here to in to h fi cer . p v esti a te the ori in o f thi s o i nion which i s o ften g g p , s orted with o en mali ce but merel confine upp p , y myself to sta te a fac t a mong the ma ny which ev ery day occur. Colonel Klimonskm being di splea sed with a certain ofi cer o f o ur cor s struc him in the p , k T t presence of sev era l of hi s comrades. he o u ra g ed ofli cer withdrew ; a nd on the following morni n the colonel seein him en ter the rea k g , g b

- v w ds hi a nd ta kin fa stroo m, ad anced to a r m, , g 190 NAn nA 'rrv E or

him manifested a wish to v e aside, g i him the satisfaction due to a comrade. The ofﬁcer, whose chara cter was no t of the ﬁrmest, understood these words and immedi a decla red himw lf sa tis , w

ﬁ ed. All his comra des, who ha d hitherto main ta ined rv e whi ch he a ffai r re ui re tha t rese t q d, freely g av e their opinion ; and from tha t mo ment

th r tl de ised a ll that e ofﬁcer wa s so g ea y sp by ,

' he l n r a e r a t the sa me ta le co uld no o g e pp a b ,

under the retext o f illness until the eneral-ia p , g chief g ranted the peti tion which this unfo rtu na te o un ma n a ddressed to him for mi s y g , per sion to retire fro m the serv ice, under the usual

- plea o f ill hea lth. Some time a fter thi s a n occurrence simila r to the

' abov e took pla ce between two ofﬁcers of diﬂm‘ent

rank5. The inferior oﬁi cer demanded a sa ti sfa c tion ; blood was spilt; the affront wa s washed a wa y ; and the chief and the subordina te beca me

o od fri ends. ndeed g I , the tolerance with which duelling i s looked upon i n a na tion wholly mili tar i s in itself y, a g ua ra ntee to oﬁ cers of a n i nfo rior rank to be res ected t eir su eri ors since p by h p , he t se cannot offer them a n a ffro nt with impunity.

Often ho wev er the o inions on this su ect , , p bj , a mon thi s class of o le in u sia are ev en g pe p R s , h c i v alrous.

192 NA a a A 'ri v n o r

s la ce of destina tion informin Ya kouwov itch hi p , g ,

eli ev ed to be a t edis of hi s ourne who m he b T , j y,

v and who receiv ed hi s letter a t Kara kha ch . Ha i n a sked the necessa r ermissi on the la tter re g y p ,

aired to tha tcit where he met hi s o o nent and p y , pp , where the fou ht wi th istols a s i s customa r y g p , y ;

ut e nds ha v i n interfered a fter the b on th seco g ,

ﬁ rst ﬁrin the affa ir did not termi na te so fa tall g , y

a s was feared fro m the na ture o f the a ffront.

ko uwov itch returned to hi s ost a t ara kha ch Ya p K ,

’ ' and Gri v a i cdoﬁ wounded continued hi s o urne , , j y

o a ris whilst the a ressor remained tran uil t T u , g g q

eters ur . a t St. P b g h Hunting wa s a t Ka ra kha ch the a musement of

' most of the oﬁ cers on festiv al da ys ; but we were oblig ed to ta ke certa in preca utions tha t w e mig ht

' f no t be hunted instea d of hunting . All ki nds o

ame were so a undan t in these env iro ns where g b , ( wild oa ts a re still v er n umero us tha t the six g y ,)

hunters who m the co lonel ke t co nsta n tl em , p y

lo ed in this occu ati on furni shed so much ame p y p , g

to the cantonment tha t fre ] no other meats , quenty were pro v ided tha n tho se a bso lutely required for

the serv ice of the hos i p ta l . The na tural a tta chment o f my co mra des to the custo ms of their co untr induced them to kee y, p

the ca rni v al in the f hion o ussia tho u h of a s f R , g co urse o n a v er hu d rin the ma ll scale. s u y s T , g V n A LE N D ON JUAN AN . 193 slmrt time thst the tM pera nm allowed of this

d s ment we ha d ussian i kin of smu e , R mounta ns,

k te and unch was freel serv ed with we too a , p y ,

i v ened the music o f the re iment fo rmed enl by g ,

i n o f the t nin th e usua l di v ers o win er ev e g s. The

.wife of the cha plai n o f our reg iment was the o nly la dy a t Karakhach ; but the retirement in which she li v ed de ri v ed us of her co m p pany .

H er husband ho wev er who was still oun nd , , y g , a whose character and conduct rendered him an

o ur parties ; a circumstance which was the more hi hl v alued b us a s itis no me c g y y , by ans ommon

r ussia n cler man Bu a mong the milita y R g y . t, in deed I hav e kno wn few men more worth of , y he res e t and friendshi which we all wit o t p c p , h ut

I canno t sa a s much o f the doctor w o y , h , with

o ﬁicers on thei r si ck soldi ers, would a fter two

a utumns ha ve made of arakha ch a v a st - , K came r

much felt in the army of the Ca ucasus ; and this can be attri buted only to the neglig ence of the

VOL . I I . 194 NARRAT IVE or

whi h is the more la mea le a s in this r c b b , pa t of

he em ire the soldiers are v er su ectto sickness t p y bj . r s like all the others in f Our co p , Russi a , urni shed

v er ea r to the im erial u rd wh men e y y p g a , o were

e la ced the conscri ts who are eriodi ll r p by p , p ca y d thro ho tthe i rai se ug u emp re. But such was the g ro ss ig nora nce of the three doctors intrusted with

he ca re of o ur hos ital which the di sinte t p , ( by

restedness o f the colonel, and the a ffection o f the

fﬁcers for the soldi ers mi ht in ev er res t o , g y pec serv e as a model to any in Russian) tha t when they were allo wed to ac t a cco rding to their o wn j udg

m nt three arts of tho se co nscri ts fell v ictims e , p p

v s r n i t to the fe er p ev a le t n the co un ry . Thus the ofﬁcers and soldiers o f the reg iment sta tioned a t Kara khach spent most of the time

which wa s no t employed in thei r mili ta ry . duties in a cts of friendship a nd benev olence ; co nsta ntly

wi th a ssa ssi ns and surro un ed h strug g li ng , d wit

wild ea sts ser ents scor io ns a nd swarms o b , p , p , f

nsects whi ch we were tormented in o ur s i , by bed , and which di sa ppea red only during the winter season ; our kno wledg e of the ev ents tha t were pa ssing in the world being conﬁned to the slig ht information contained in the prika z whi ch was

v er week sentfrom St. eters ur and whi ch e y P b g h, arri v ed with more or the practibility of the pa ssag e of couri ers thro ug h h mountains the chain of t e . l w Na uru " : o r

’ «111t we passed tbroug b the German colo nies which a re wi thin ﬁ ve wersts of t , he d uri tnl. These colonists who are na i v es o f Wirtembur b , g , were sent into Georg ia thro ug h the inﬂuence of the em r s m ther who wished to r v p e s o , elie e the i en cla ss o f misery o f the ind g t her nativ e c ountry.

houses built Georg ians. The for them by the g ov a 'nment are well a da pted to the climate ; the a uthorities and fro m those (l emmas employed in the countr contri ute much to thei r ros-1 y , b p

m i nv i ted me to takc up y quarters a t his ho me.

Yermolow and ex ressed a wish of renderin , p g myself useful during the summer out of my reg i men st di ousl concealin from him h t, u y g t e real stat of m health whic still in e y , h wa s a most deplorable sta te, I o btained the only fav o ur he had in his ower to r nt na mel m remainin p g a , y, y g at Teﬁis near his psrson until an o pportunity

Before proceeding further in my narra ti ve I nON J UAN VA N HALE N . 197 b eg to be allo wed to Offer a slig ht retrospectiv e sketch o f the revolutions whi ch Georg ia ha s under

t o v his imp rtant e ent. ' 198 NA na A rrv r. o r

CHAPTER XIII .

— — mar Conquestby c enng his Khan The a s of Georgia

— — to the Russians General Tchi tchianow The Georg ians profess — — the Greek creed Armenian portion of the population Ca puchin — — missi onaries Temples of the idola ters Administrati on Of Yer — — molow The Tartarprincipalities in alleg iance to Russia Nongba

- - to Co stume of the inhabi tants of Shirvan, and the tributaries — Russia W i nﬁ eld spirit of the Armenians—Warlﬂre dispo

of the g overnment.

Gn oa o rA ca lled b the ussia ns Gro usia co m , y R , prises the prov i nces Of Ka hetia o r Ka het (which

wa s formerl ca lled Al ania Imeretia ori inall y b ) , ( g y

eria Ka rtali ni a an inn reli anci entl Ib ) , , d M g n ( y

COIchida ) . The rev olutions which this country suffered in

a ncient times, and whi ch the mo numents, meda ls,

d her anti ui ies still found here serv e to a n o t q t , sso NA a n rrv r: er

s This accounts also for the rea n king . g t umber of princes that a re found among the Ge org ia n

Turks in their conte ntio ns wi th the ersi n , P a s, urg d the trflies of the Cu i a sug -fl especially the l a fi s who mfen ed the u me r i n g , p e ig io as themselv es to lay wa ste thl s part o f fi enrg ia

b rend in it a desert. Alexa nder T sar of y er g ,

ahetia was then o li ed to ha v e recourse to K , b g

Rud e, and, in 1586 , sent an amb assador to

and reque sti ng that some fortresses mig ht be built on the Tera k for his defence. Fro m tha t time the protection of lhi ssia ha s bem soug ht by mest i n rinces who seldo m fa iled te of the Georg a p ,

' Whm Peter I . a scended the throes o f Ra ms, he beg m hi s celebra ted reig n by mking a m e

wa s occu ied b his tmo s rmd se er l p y p , v a alterca

in he D hestan whi we more g t ag , ch re or less

of Russia felt interested in the welfa re of that

t Of Asia . At len h some ears after the par g t , y ' de h hatEm ror h aﬁ i s of Persia e a t of t Pe , t e a r becam D O J U N VAN H L N N A A R . 901

rov inces with the ussia n em ire under p R p , the rei n of rince G or e the el es t g P e g , d t son of he

T sar eracli us who follo win in th s of H , , g e teps his redecess rs conclu ed the w r p o , d o k to whi ch he

countr and be uea thed in 18 0 hi s y , q , 0 , states to the Emperor Pa ul I The Russian » troops then cd T v anced from the Terak to eﬁis. The policy of

eor ian ri e rela d o t l t Tsar who a G g p nc , te t he a s , h s left a mo n hi s u tr me a nd he ussians a , g co n y n t R ,

l r of the su rior lents th an ho nourab e memo y pe ta , bo milita r and li tical whi ch he was di stin y po , by

hi s eral no t onl skreened hi s g ui shed. T g en y

tea rs of so many fa milies who had hitherto o bean

cru o r F so elly pp essed by the Mab metans . rom the moment that this illustrious g eneral wa s placed

to the ar Geor e di s leased with the olitical Tz g , p p NARI AT17 8 OF

v o ured to excite several prov inces to rebelli o n

in ersia where he s ill resid a nd i s mad e the P . t es,

co tr un y. After the de th of T hi hia n w the ussi an a c tc o , R

ov ern ent t o d l n d in the a ffairs of g m , o eep y e g ag e E uro e ne lected in some ea sure the desti n p , g , m , y

and r s e it of these new ro v inces a nd not p o p r y p , onl sent r l inio n er y according to the g ene a op , p

sons unﬁtfor its adminis tion utchan ed hem tra , b g t

so Often h t no i ld r s na bl , t a mprov ement co u ea o y

b ex d . r ia e pecte Such wa s still the fa te o f Geo g , o n which thus weig hed the ca la mities of Asi a and: Of E uro e until the end Of he uro ean ca m p , t E p

ai ua Of 1 4 wh n th Em er r Alexander p g 81 , e e p o turned hi s a ttention to wards tha tcountry . It was a t this epoch that General Yermolo w wa s a r cele ra ted e ss to Tche an , fte his b mba y r , a ointed eneral- in- chief with full o wer to pp g , p or ani e a nd a cif th s interesti n co untr an g z p y i g y, underta ki ng suﬁici ent of itself to immortali ze the na me of this eneral but whi ch the Persians a re g , incessantly stri ving to thwa rt by thei r perﬁdio us conduct h i r n e v o r to fo , and by t e consta t end a u

‘ some Of the in s Of GeOr ia and es ecia ll pro v ce g , p y

2M: Na m 'rrv a o r

b no means num ro s h ere The Jews a re y e u , and m atitute but a v ery indig ent and insig niﬁ

f l his ma be a ted cant cla ss O peop e. T y ttribu to

Atthe commencement of the sev enteen th cen tury; the court of Ro me sent some Capuchin mi s

t u erio r he principa l towns of Georg ia . The s p and a few mo re hav e their residence a t edis and T , Obtained from the g ov ernment suﬁ cient g ro und

on. to build a . church and a conv ent, to which a c eid a den i s n is v e ro a ble emhle g r a nexed. h ry p b

chins from the other a tholic fria rs amd them C , g e the preference caver o thers for the mi ssion o f this ministr where ev e the Ca tholi cs themmlv es be y , n

e to a mini smr of the l a r I hav e seen 9. ag a t .

D ominican fr r who ca e f m o land to oin ia , m ro P j

’ ° the m d Teﬁi s and w o notv rthstandm , h , g his hein a nati v e of Geor ia elt o bli ed to let g g , f g his beard row not to l s e d o i im f is g , o e th gno p n o h

ﬁlmmto h iri f t ei r sp tua l duti es, dev o te much of their ti me to the a ssista ncecf the sick , their huma nity and unremitting attentions entitling themto non sen : VAN a s u n . ms

' The sectaries of Omar and those of Ali hsv e

a so their m s es a t Teﬂi . At n v . l o qu s oon, the ooi " feta tio ns of thei r olanes fro mthe to wers of their temples a re hea rd in spite of the deafening noise temples of the idola ters are still extant; but they

fa milies. All these di fferentrelig ions are tolerated

n Geor the same as thro u hout e i g ia , g th Russian

ire and en o an e ual rotec ion f emp , j y q p t ro m the

o v ernment. his enli htened olic g T g p y, together with the steady endea vo urs of the armed force to r serve tran uillit in ev er art of the coun r p e q y y p t y ,

eed a d the in efa ti ble ultimately succ , n d g a ca res

wn o n the tes of Geor ia to all forei ners thro pe g a g g ,

merce with the nati v es so g reatly contribute to unt the r s r t fo mentthe industry of the co ry, p o pe i y

h a s or Wi th respect to t e Kh n , Ta tar princi

s as No h Shirv eastand south, uch ug s, an, Km ’ wa althou h at the time of that countr s incor y, g y i n with Russia the res ectiv e Khsns de pota to , p

“ Attend-m u memosqna . 206 mu n rrv s: or

hemselves tributa ries a nd su ec ts to the clared t , bj

m eror there were certai n sti ula tions b E p , p y which no Russian tr00ps were to be sta ti oned

v inces hus the ov ernmen t o f in thei r pro . T g Georg ia ha s there no o ther armed force tha n tha t required to maintai n the communi ca tion fro m one

Gan ca o r E li zabeth o l was no ther. poi nt to a g , p , i ncorpora ted with Georg ia (1uring the a dmini stra chi ow No u ha a ro T hit an . tion of Pri nce c g , p w v ince on the western boundaries of Kahetia , as

r i the dea th o f hei r la st ha n j oined to Geo g a at t K , and i s under the immedi a te a uthority of a milita ry

hi s a nd those of hirv an v erno r. ro v ince g o T p , S

troo s hav e a reed with the o p , g g n them wh v he sho uld re ui re i t thei r ish , ene er t y q ,

the na me of Geor i a a nd extendin fro e g , g m th so uthern a rt of the a ucasus ma be cla ssed a s p C , y

ollows : Kaheti a Ka rtalinia a nd Imeretia hri s f , , , C

i n ro v inces of the Greek Armenian and Ca. ta p ,

olic creeds. Eli za beth o Ka ra wa hirv an th p l, y, S , ‘ ba ah m m d of No ng , M o eta n pro v inces co po se

win tsined, o g to the conti nual m ig rations from Persia and Turkey, w h it i in er hristian ul by hic s creased. In 1819, howev , the C pop a tion was said to amount to souls ; and thatof the M ussul

m ns nsa n v n or

than with the lo ss of a n o unce of cotto n ; but th e g ov ernment may safely reckon on them for a n y whi useful enterpri se by ch their calmnerce or i n . i e dustry is l k ly to beneﬁt. In this case they a re

dent n tion are assimasel them a s an indepen a , p y

i hei r fa ev ery thing tha t is hero cal and sublime. T

ha te to kee alive thei r lov e for war in whi p , ch ,

n i d su reme v irtue a noti on w co s dere -s the p , ﬁ ch

i nterco urse wi th them. In eneral the are l g , y tal

It would be diﬂcult to ﬁnd tln'o ug hw t Georg ia i s a deg ree of ha ug htiness in their ca rriag e and ostenta tion in their manners which are no t un nor: w a s v a n HALE N . 909

' The T a rta rs wear a e wa s t il ta di irts, a lmost al y

a ea r a ci rcumstance which no w n y , , t ithstandi g thei r c o n tin ual ablutions must i v e a tol ra l , g e b e i dea o f thei r un l e enerall c eanli ness. They ar g y v er c o r ulent ha v e dark e es nd their can» y p , y , a

lov w ll e wa r a s a hun i ex i and e as, e tng peditm, ar

chm- d w in to iv e a ctor of ea ch of thesena tions, an isb g g

to i t he re s d l m ossible remov ed t g a te t eve op entp ,

of t ia ns nd - thus s the ublic he Armen , a increa ed p

ro n of the p sperity . He excited the noble ambitio Geor ian ou h b em lo in near his erson g y t , y p y g p and admitting into his army a g rea t number of

na ti v e ofﬁcers who had conducted themselv es

hono ura l a nd who deserv ed his conﬁdence. b y,

And la stl he im arted to the warli ke chara ctd ' y, p of the Tartars all the steadiness of which it i s 210 n a a a a rrv n or

reg ula r a manner a s the na tural ha tred of e v ery

The hans a ccusto med lon a use o f K , , by g b

o wer to exercise in thei r ro v inces a ll s ecie s o f p , p p

t ra nn strov e a s much a s wa s in their o wer to y y, p impede the uniformma rch a nd thwa rt the o rg a n i za tion of the g o v ernment of Tedis but th e a uthors of these di so rders fa r fro m succeedin , g their attem ts were ui ckl o li ed to ii to an p , q y b g y

Th inha itants of those ro v i nces h r soil . e t e b p , ho wev er ein too well sa tisﬁed with thi s kind , b g

f admini stra tion nd hav i n less tri ute to a o , a g b p y when they depend on the a utho rity of a mili ta ry

o vernor are nev er v er much inclined to second g , y the continua l endea v ours of Persi a or o f the fug i

The enlig htened policy of the g o v ernment of

T eﬂi s and the ro it ﬁrmness a nd well- kno wn , p b y , ,

rudence o f General Yermo lo w ma v er ustl p , y y j y be said to ha v e conquered the obstinacy of ev ery

a rt and succ hri p y, eeded in uniting both C stia ns and Mussulmans under the sa me po wer and

standa rd .

212 m a ss -ri v] :or

he w cit which must ime be ﬁnished t ne y, by this t , t u h the had man re u ces on the ar o f ho g y y p j di , p t

the inha i n s to ov ercome as the s ot on whi ch b ta t , , p it wa s built wa s the burial g round of the Ge o r

i Th v also v er numero u s g a ns. e cara ansaries a re y

i n tha tcit and contai n the wholesale ma a i n es y , g z ,

which ell tocked that not onl the ho p are so w s , y

aar o f Teﬂi s b t those of Im ia and Kaheti a z , u m t . are suppli ed by them Each o f these cara v an sa ies fo rms a lar e buildi n the interior of whi ch r g g ,

is subdiv ided into a number of small rooms, n o t

unlike the cells of a monaster and which co m y, wit s ci lle okin i n munica te h pa ous g a ries, lo g to a

la r ard in whieb a re seen oll-mall ca mels p y , , p , ,

buffaloes and horses elon in to the differen t , , b g g

cara v ans hi ch are con inu l c ossin t e s reets , w t a ly r g h t i mm n of Teﬁi s. Thus noth ng i s more co o in theae

la nd the Persia n and the urk the p ces than to ﬁ T ,

ashmere shawls old tissues and rich ca r ets C , g , p , are thechi ef ornaments and a ttraction of the cara

v ansaries and in rea t re m the wealth , g quest a ong y

G or i es The i o these o e g an famili . att tude f rimta l

mer ha n si i c —le c ts, ttng ro ss g g ed on their new with a i e and now with a kaiio n ‘ until p p ,

kali o r lsin or ' se ed with A n is s large po ce a ystal va , ornamen t

p edous stsnss. Itcentsins tbs wstsr through whi ch the -nake d no n w a s v a n m u m. 213

the a re i n terru ted b cus mers when th y p y to , e sud h nn ess wi th which they pau from the state of i na cti o n to that of mercantile eloquence and activ e

a stra n g er. The g old d uca t of Holland i s the fa v o uri te coin amon these g Asia ti c merchants. An y p u rcha se may be made a t Teﬂis with g reat

trhi r oh g rea tly cont ibute to its wealth. The

e amel i n silver which is much u in ewelle n , sed j ry

and i n a rms i s e uall ea utiful and erman nt , q y b p e ,

as w colours which are extrem h . ell a s the , ely brig t T nd the kinn ales or oniards e he sa bres a j , p , ar

k own in ia h os nes n As . T e p e, a nd is the ﬁ t

blad s are so well re ared ters ered a nd e p p , p , da ma akened a t Teﬁi s that the a re considered , y

v er su erior to all o thers and fetch a n exorbi y p ,

o fo r ersians and Geor ians for which t ere h th P g , h

d i the toba cco passes, an s in g eneral use among the Tartars and the Persians who are oﬁ en seen ridin and smo in followed b an at , g k g , y

tendant also on horsebsck, who carries in the holstsrs the ka llm and

a the nece sar a aratus for smo in which his master en o s ll s y pp k g , j y by me f s leath r tu e fort r iltt feetlo at whatever ace he ans o e b , y o y pg , p 214 NARRATIVE or

mand. ndeed Teﬂis oﬂers a ood is a g reat de I , g tion of the fair of i ni o v rod representa N j N g o , h on a smaller sca le and there i s little thoug , doubtbuttha tif once the communica tion between

a and As h n t rou h a hesta n a nd Georg i trak a h g D g , I e ho ld be wi th the Black Sea throug h m retia , s u well esta li shed the ma rket of Tcﬂi s will b its b , , y

v ti on ri v al that of Ni ni Nov a d antag eo us situa , j

orod a nd Geor ia will then be a le to defra all g , g b y the expenses o f its a dmini stra tion and of its army .

It is ho wev er im o ssi le no t to feel sur ri sed , , p b p at the merca ntile a cti v ity observ a ble i n this city when we co nsider tha t only twenty- six yea rs ago the ﬁrst and most considerable a rti cle of commerce

nsisted o f o un men and women the lat co y g , ter being g enerally so ld for the harem o f the

hah of ersia or fo r the sera lio of the ultan. S P , g S A bea utiful Georg i an woman wa s often exchanged for a damaskened sa re or fo r an Arabian horse. b , Thi s infa mo us tra fﬁc ceased with the presence of the ussia n arm and th h since R y, e g o v ernment a s turned their a ttention to thi s interesting portion of societ iv in i v r y , by g g them a n educaton e y different from tha t which wa s formerly bestowed on them and th re i a sin t im , e by ncre g heir porta nce i n h t e eyes o f their co untrymen .

The mounta ineers of the a uca sus and ar C , p ticularl the Les his a lso rin to h of y g , b g t e ma rket

216 Na a na rxv n or

d at a moderate rice the com d facility, an p ,

i s

the deﬁciencies of the former ; but it is to be

r a s unfortuna tel is the case i n some of fea ed, y

v a tion of rice ma y be producti v e of inanlu

to e c untr on a ccount of the manner of th o y ,

pa ring the soil on which i tis g rown .

o of e ro v inces es eci all th S me th p , p y a t

ahe ia in which the v i e ards a re s n K t , n y o a me

The waters o f Teﬂi s a re sa id to be v ery

for d ein and to them i s a ttri uted the y g , b ' and perman ent colo urs possessed by the stuﬂi c No thin carpets manufa tured in thi s city . g

sa res and onia rds articles in horn 8m. b , p , ,

turin the v arious o ects of their industr g bj y .

The ri v er Kur o ur or onra tra v , K , K , erses

cit of Teﬂis and ﬂo ws thro h stee y , ug p The new to wn is situa ted on the heig hts 1

ri ht a nk of the ri v er ad oinin he old g b , j g t ,

i s ui in the form of an am itheatre b lt ph ,

218 NA na A rrv n o r

whole week exce t on aturda s when , p S y they are

The a sins for a thin are out near the rock b b g ,

T hs re di vided into ur ﬂows . he bat a three or fo

' rottoes ea ch of a diﬂerent tem era ture and g , p , only one of which admi ts a little li g htthro ug h a

all sk - li ht in the v a ult whi ch is constructed sm y g , m o brick in the Ara i an anner. The f f , b ba ths or

h men a re exclusi v el serv ed ar rs w t e y by T ta , ho

med o thi s kind of servi a re a cc usto t ce.

‘ hen a erson arri v es a t the bath one of W p , the

ar et where he undresses rev io us c p , p to hi s enter e t At the door f ing th ba h. o the second g ro tto is met another a rta r who li he by T , , ke a ll tho se

em lo ed i n the interi or of these dark v a ul s p y t , whi ch are scarcely lig hted by the feeble g limmer

’ o f a f w lam s i s in a f n i s e sta te o a ture. ere ng p , H he ma be said to receiv e a va o ur- a th roduced y p b . p

by the steamissuing fro mthe hot spring s. On hi s

" arri v ing at the entra nce of the ba thing g rotto, a strang er is oblig ed to ca rry o n his conv ersa tion by

si ns, a s v er few ca n make themselv es understo od g ‘ y these m The re r ess o f com ress by en. pea ted p oc p in the od twistin the li m s makin the g b y, g b , g

oints la and ha ndlin one like a s on e c j p y, g p g , & .

i h then commences has e so f r uentl wh c , be n eq y D ON J U N VAN n A Ln A N. 219 d escri ed tha t I will ass i t o v er in ilen b , p s ce, te m a rkin onl thattwo hours a fter these a lutio ns g y, b , o ne feel8 a n extra ordinary improv ement in the

The women es eciall tho se Of the hi her cla s , p y g s,

twenty ho urs in these v a ults ; but now they o nly

in here duri n a few ho urs th u h rema g , o g the

whole Of Sa turda y the ba ths a re exclusi v ely en.

an ed for them. Besides athin the Geor i n g g b g , g a

ma ke use o f a oma tum re ared them lv es p p p by se , by means o f which they preserv e the colo ur o f

ir hai r es eciall those Of an a dv an the , p y ced ag e . They a lso pa int and v a rni sh their fa ces with red

w ite and their nails with ello w whi st he and h , y , t y

hen their toile is ended the lie down to W t , y

slee d on a wa kenin are serv ed wi th v arious p ; an , g ,

refr shments hieﬂ consistin of frui ts a nd re e , c y g p

s l the n ev er uncov ered their erv e . or e s F m r y , y fa ces befo re a strang er ; but at present tha t cus

m is so r a bolished tha t thou h the still to fa , , g y

shew some sh ness the onl v eil whilst trav el y , y y 220 NAnnAr' rv s or

back entirel dressed in white a nd rec d , y , p e ed by a runnin footman who i s a rmed wi th a g , stick .

On unda s the fa mili es S y , a ssemble in the ev en i n which the chi eﬂ s end i n da ncin t g , y y p g , he ladi es alwa s themselv es and in co u les y by , p , the v ario us a ttitudes they use bei ng to o wanton to ermit the men to ta ke a a rt e da nces p p in th , wi hout in so me mea sure tran s r sin the rules t , , g es g prescribed by decorum. There i s so me resem blance between these and the na tional da nces o f

ndalhsia altho u h the music o f he former hi ﬂ A , g t c e y consists Of tim rels and ta m o urines a nd some b b , times o f a ha rp. Wi th respect to the bea uty of the Georg ian w men it differs a ccordi n to the v a ri o u ro o , g s p v inces ; but those who a re bestentitled to the cele brit the en o for ersonal a ttractions inha i t y y j y p , b the country a bo ut the Ca uca sus. According to ' the o pini on of persons who ha v e ha d the oppor-a tunit o f estima tin their mental ua li ties he y g q , t Georg ian women a re endo wed with liv ely imag ina» tions enero us feelin s a nd v ehement a ssions , g g , p ; and, as mo sto f the defects in their cha racter arise more fro m habit a nd want o f educa tion tha n from nature the im rov ement which the a re da il , p y y making in the former will qui ckly ca use them to disa ppea r. ia rostitution and a dulter a re a l In Georg , p y

N ARRATI VE OF their do wr thei r ea lous i s such tha t it sur y, j y , passes a ll that i s sai d Of the a ncient Spa ni ards.

Generall s ea ki n the Geor i an wo men wh t r y p g , g e he mi stresses or wiv es ha v e such a stron a tta chment , g for the ect of their ffectio n no matter what Obj a , his a e or ersona l a eara nce ma be that the g p pp y , y loo k u o n i nﬁdeli wi h h rea te t horro r p ty t t e g s .

The r tensions of the Geor ian no ilit re p e g b y, s ectin thei r an ient ori in are as a surd as an p g c g , b y in the world, a nd most of them clai m their de

' nt fro m v id T s is the reason wh the sce Da . ll y majority ha v e a harp i n their coa t of a rms .

he are enerall v er ro ud tho u h the T y g y y p , g y shew themselv es so onl the na v es for the sel y to ti , y dom v enture to boa st of such ridiculous pretensions to fo reig ners :the Old men a mong the aristocracy being to o well a wa re of their i nferiority i n point o uc tion and the o un men kno win tha f ed a , y g g t w uired in this res e t the hatev er they hav e a cq p c , y

n o we it to the Russians . Amo g the Georg i an rinces the feudal s stem i s still in existence and p y , ,

s was formerl the custom in uro e their a y E p , v a s

sals follo w them to the wars.

The Persian lang uag e is spo ken among the

hi her class a s the French i s in uro e There g , E p . are two dia lects co mmo nly used in Georg ia ; the one by the ecclesi a sti cs in their religi ous per d he h the an t ot er ci v ili ans. The formances, by D ON VA J UAN N HALE N . 223 fo rmer i s deriv ed from the Greek a nd the Arme

n and the la tter from the ersian and the nia , P T urkish la ng uag es As it inv aria bly happens

' w hen o ne natio n pa sses under the dominion o f

a nother ma n ussia n words hav e alrea d een , y R y b

i n tro duced into the Georgi an dialect. The Geo m

i ans and the rmeni ans unlike the rest of th g A , e

i from left to ri h i n wr te t. Th A sia tc a tions, g eir

li ra tur thou h it dates its ori in from ama r te e, g g T ,

o m to tha t a ella tion and i s conﬁned h as n clai pp , to a few balla ds ; but the cala ma ties in whi ch Georg ia has been inv olv ed by the frequent in v a

ions Of the ersi ans and o her ns account s P t ba rbaria ,

for the slow ro ess of lea rni n uri n the p g r g . D g

rei n of eracli us a new ramma r wa s com osed g H g p ,

wh h i s till in Sev eral cla ssic wo rks wer ic s use. e

ls tra nsla ted and v a rio us schools esta lished . a o , b The ﬁrst ma p which a ppeared in Russia in the

r i ncludin so me of he rov inces rei g n of Pete 1. g t p

of G or ia was traced Alexa nder Bekev itch e g , by

' a Circasma n prince. Al thoug h the Georg ian wedding s a re simila r to

he ussian a s far a s re ards the reli io us ere t R , g g c

mon the differ in other res ects a rticularl y, y p , p y

T e marria es in thi s cla ss a mong the nobility . h g are a lwa ys contracted wi th a View to family into

a nd v r rarel throu h lov e and esteem. rests, e y y g It was formerly the custom for the parents to NARRATIVE OF

e rot their children from the c dle b t h ra , a nd thei r unio n o ften took lace a t so ea rl an a e tha t t e p y g , h uni ted yea rs Of the bride and brideg room di d no t

w - amo unt to t enty fo ur. It wa s by thi s means tha tthe unha ppy parents eluded the tri bute both of g irls and boys whom the Tza rs of Georg ia were o blig ed to send to the Maho meta ns when

e w r i a o Ano er in i th y e e tr but ry t them. th d spen

a le art of the eti uet was tha t the e ro t s b p q te , b t hed persons sho uld not hav e previ o usly seen each other, a custom which, since thei r intercourse with

s m he ussians i no t so uch adhered to . The t R ,

eremon to whi ch I all ded a ov e ho wev er c y u b , ,

ema ns unchan ed suc ei n the a ttachm of r i g , h b g ent

se eo l hei r ncient customs the p p e to t a . The bride proceeds to the church cov ered with l in which a re wo oles for the e es a thick v ei , t h y , and the brideg room lea ds her by the hand to the altar with the anxiety na tural to one who has not the remo test idea of the physical or moral quali .

f d en the e o u ties o hi s bri e. Wh r lig i s ceremony

cluded the a re conducted he h u . Of i s con , y to t o se ’ h i rl s a rents a midstthe ﬁrin o f musketr t e g p , g y, where the couple are pla ced in the middle of a

e ride still cov ered wi th her v eil and saloon, th b ; all their fri ends sitaround them, for sev eral hours

in in the sa me a tti tude without utterin a remain g , g sin le word or takin an refreshment whilstthe g , g y ;

Na nna 'rtvn of

o ur arr v al a t the ch h she was led to the ste s i urc , p

o f the funeral monument raised in the mi ddle

lon G k e uiem offerin the mo st aﬂict g ree r q , g

i n e l ima ina le a nd s if thi s were not g sp cta c e g b ; , a

suﬁi cient the wretched lad a nd her children were , y

conducted to the to Of the monument to take p , their lastfarewell of the mortal remains deposited

in the The scen f istress whi ch fo llo wed comu. e o d

w - a s of a truly heart rending na ture. The Geo rg ia ns o bserv e the same rites in their funerals a s the Russi ans ; but some of their cere ' mo nies diﬁ er. Thus the ho rse of the decea sed (a nd there are v ery few men in Asia who do not

ossess a horse alwa s recedes the co r se ca r p ) y p p ,

r in the sa ddle inv ertedl Behind the co ﬁin y g y.

come hi s relations ea rin his arms lo wered al , b g most to the earth ; and in the rear follow his whole

famil mother wife rothers si sters and chil y, , , b , ,

dren utterin a t ev e mo h la ment , g ry ment t e most a le cries I b . n the church the women remain

rostra te On th and p e coﬁi n for sev eral ho urs, immedia tely after the interment the funeral pro cessi on returns to the house i n the sa me order as

efo re. The men then wi thdra w and the wo men b , sea t themselv es o the r un around the wido w n g o d , all Observing the most pro found silence until one Of those who i s reputed the mo st eloquent a mo ng 22 D ON J UAN VA N nALnN. 7 them n f the ood , e u mera tes a t interv als some o g

u a li ti ecea sed when the q es th at a dorned the d , cla mo ro u s l a menta tio ns roans shrieks and tea rs , g , , co mmen w w r she be inclined c e . The wido , hethe o r no t and do es , sc ra tches her fa ce, tea rs her hair, all in her w i ﬁ u h self his cere po er to d s g re er . T mo n y i s repea ted ev ery day for sev era l hours duri n g the spa ce o f six weeks ; and thus the di s

con so la te reli ct underg oes a Lent of a filiction . Wha t a rtifi ces must be resorted to in order to ca u se their tea rs to flow for such a leng th Of time !

B ut a b su d s i s the ustom it is v er diﬁi cult to r a c , y

alter the u re sag e he d etailed .

In so me of the ro v inces of he Cauca sus where p t ,

the Chri sti an r li on i s o t ro fessed the e e g i n p , sa m

custo m i s o serv ed . Our sur rise ho wev er les b p , ,

sens res ectin these lon a nd wee in mo urnin s p g g p g g , when we are informed that the wo men in this co un try are no t allowed to marry a second time ; for

when h d o the i o t ey o s , y br ng up n themselv es the

execra tion of their friends : a custo m which is

erha s le s a surd ha h o p p no s b t n t e f rmer. 228 a n v n na rr s or .

CHAPTER XV .

at Teﬂis Schools Earthquakes—Public

chu h —Ad en of M a ors Lindse and Mac intosh on rc es v tures j y k , — —Reserve of the la di es of Georg ia Their dances an d Musi c Revolt in Imm tia —Asssssinati on of Colonel Poussilewnky — Campaig n aga inst the rebelli ous Khans Characta of Genera

Tm; Russi an g ov ernment ha s fo unded a nd en d entinstit tions amon which o wed sev eral benev ol u , g

the hos i al which is situa ted in an air a nd p t , y hea lth a rt of th to wn atits northern extremit y p e , y, and near the oura and sev era l u lic schools K , p b for o th sexes in which the forma tion of manners b , is a prominent fea ture ; thus besto wing on the inha bita nts of these prov inces the g rea test bless ing whi ch a truly pa ternal g ov ernment can im

a rt a nd o enin to Asia t e ates of Euro ean p , p g h g p ci v iliza tion.

930 na n ea rn s o r

ers in whose com an were also two E n messeng , p y g r li sh oﬁicers, who we e o n their return home fro m

ersia where the had re dered rea t serv ices to P , y n g

he untr a s ma ors in the ersian a rm and t co y , j P y, with who m I beca me acquainted thro ug h the

medi um o f the eneral- ia - chief who reco mmended g ,

hem m me w s t to e. One of them, who se na a

indse had ained th a rti cula r esteem of L y, g e p

A as ir a for whom he had o r a ni ed so fa r bb M z , g z ,

as the ersia ns a re ca a le o f o r aniza tion a P p b g , hool rtll sc of a i ery. Thi s o fﬁcer had broug ht back

to her arents a t Teﬂi s a Geor ia n la d whom p , , g y,

A as ir a a ccordin to the a r a ro us usa e bb M z , g b b g

of the a st had ma de hi a resent of. his E , m p T l ad who wa s still o un and o f a ﬁ ne ﬁ ure y , y g , g ,

had een carried a wa wi th a rea t num er of b y, g b

o thers when she wa s still an i a nt duri n the , nf , g

la st inv a sion of the ersians in 1 5 a nd ha d een P 79 , b

ro u ht u in the ha rem. a or indse who b g p M j L y,

had liv ed wi th her, and ha d two or three children, was on hi s way to Eng land to ta ke po ssession of a la r e fortune a nd ad with him o ne o f hi s li ttle g , h bo s whom I w dr in e y , hav e al ays seen essed th

Persian costume.

The other oﬁ cer named ackintosh had di , M , s ting uished himself in the service of the East India

Com an a t the stormi n of erin a a ta m nd p y g S g p , a ha v in een en a ed in a n affa ir of honO r g b g g u , which JUAN VAN E D ON HAL N. 281 ha d led to serio us conse uences was obli e to q , g d aba ndo n hi s anners and ta ke refu e in ersi b , g P a , where h e had been emplo yed in org anizing the infa n tr o ir y f Abba s M za .

T he cl u b of T eﬁis which had een but latel , b y esta bli sh ed w s ro coted bcth the iv il , a p j by c a nd mili ta ry a uthorities o f the ca pital during the ah sen c e o f G eneral Yermolo w, to wards the close of

1 1 l who ein a sin le m 8 . T hi s e era an co uld 9 g n , , b g g , not ho ld a ssemblies in whi ch la dies mig ht pa rti ci te a nd who wished to dra w clo pa , ser the social ti es b etw een the Europea n a nd Georg ia n la dies by

mea n s o f such an esta lishment o n his arri val en b , co ura g ed as much a s po ssible the ev ening a ssem

lies h eld there A v a st edifice which ha d b . , been just b u ilt in the new city by one o f the mo st o pu l w ent Armenians o f T cﬂi s, a s destined for thi s purpo se ; and a g eneral subscription a mong the

o ﬁ c ers em lo ee a nd Geor ians o f di stinction , p y , g ,

residi n a t edis wa s ra i sed to meetthe ex enses g T , p

of r which w l t e hment. li a r o u d h establis A b y,

soo n in a r e collecti on o f ooks a s th n co ta a l g b , ere

were man con ri uto rs to it was formed sev eral y t b , ; o f the German a nd French jo urna ls were ta ken in ;

some rooms ro ria ted for rea din and others app p g ,

fo r cards to which oth su scri ers and forei ners , b b b g

mi ht e air ev er ev enin . The clu esides g r p y g b, b ,

con i v r l io us all- rooms with orches ta ned se e a spa c b , NARRATI VE OF

of a tra s in the centre. A Dalma tia n landlord n

el who had een ma de risoner durin Na hot , b p g ’ o ca m ai n in ussia and ca rri ed a pole n s p g R , by ian eneral to Geo r ia was en a ed to ur Russ g g , g g f nish the refreshment a nd suppers wi th which these

ies enerall termina ted . In a word ev er pa rt g y , y measure wa s ta ken to ma ke this establi shment

ros er and answer the o ect o f the ro ectors. p p , bj p j Atﬁrst many indiv idua ls o f the Georg ia n nobi lity seemed av erse to the intro duction o f this no v elt and shewed some reluctance to share in its y , hei r re udi ce a ainst it ho wev er adv antag es. T p j g , , soon g av e wa y ; thoug h the la dies could not be induced to a ttend until the a rriv al of General Yer

B u a s th r w t Tcﬂis. t e u o ean dances wolo a , E p

kn wn to them it was onl duri n su er were un o , y g pp time tha t they ca me in clo ser conta ct wi th the

uro ea n la di es and entlemen tha t i s when E p g , ev er the extreme j ealousy o f their husba nds did not interfere ; so tha t i n g eneral the Georg ian ladi es formed thei r dances in a nother sa loon , from which issued the harsh so unds of timbrels and ta m ourines which the howev er seemed to re b , y, , p fer to the mo re harmonio us ones of the orchestra h of t e club .

All these recrea ti ons which are dou less th , bt e best mea ns to crea te an i ntercourse between the

v es and the uro eans were shortl to be nati E p , y

934 Na a a a 'rrv n o r

this o wer who ev en in 1890 an ex by p , , , p plosion a t the two extremities o f Georg ia ; b ut which the g eneral- in- chief resolv ed to stiﬂe in i ts

ir h b immedia tel sendin Genera l Willia mi b t , y y g

' noﬁ , chief of the sta ff, into l meretia , a nd ano ther

' a rmed fo rce, under the orders of Genera l Ma dato ﬁ , into Ka z koum k to unish the rebelli ou ha n . y y , p s K ' v Genera l M ada toﬁ is a na ti e of Ka rahah, an d enter d u s r i whils s i v er e the R ssian e v ce t tll y yo ung .

He ma de the cam ai ns of 1812 13 a nd 14 p g , , ,

a fterwards em lo ed i n Geor ia under he p y g , t orders G of eneral Yermolo w . Hi s k nowledg e o f the lan ua e a nd customs of this co untr his wa rlike g g y, character activ it and noble a m i ion to ether , y, b t , g wi th his handsome Geor ian ﬁ ure and hi s r ﬁ g g , e n ed him v r Euro pea n manners . rendered a e y useful

erso na e i n these rov ince . s he is still o un p g p s A y g , and meets with ev ery enco urag ement a nd reward from the o v ernmen t g , and a s moreov er he is en riched the han of ara ah wh e by K K b , o, ither thro u h olic or a ttachment ha s alwa h g p y , ys s ewn himself v er enerous towa rds him and hi s y g family, he ma still erform im orta nt serv i ces to us i y p p R s a, if he sho uld not fall a n untimely v i ctim to the

ha tred of the Asia tics.

Among the ofﬁcers appointed to comwse this ’ n ral s sta ff I was one and althou h m ill g e e , ; g y ness nON W AN VAN HALE N . 935 still continued una a ted I re oiced t ein b , j a b g em lo ed in this ex edi tion in which esides th p y p , , b e plea sure I sho uld deri v e fro m v i siting sev eral pro v i n ces o f this interestin countr so me O or g y, pp tu n i ty mig ht offer o f di sting ui shing myself. as s Na na a ri v n or

CHAPTER XVI .

Lieutenant colonel Kotzebue Prince Orbellanotf Ro ute a p

pointed for the staff of Prince M adatcEL- Cav erns of the noma de — Tartan Bridg e of the ri v er Kha n —A dvance to the pro vina — — bordering on Persi a Pla ins of Tchamkhor Wild g oats- 4 h ) — clent pillar and redoubt of Tchamkhcr—Snakes City Of Eliza beth ol—The old form — allantconduct of the han who is p G K ,

— — trea sures were concea led His palace and tower D escription o f — song s of the Georg i ans The author prosecutes hi s journey to

— h ul k an t t wn— n w- dang erous C akbo a , ci en o S o capped mountain s

clima te—Intermi tten tfev ers—The Armi es—The Khan of Kara

bah—Secrets of his harem—Sum tuous en tertainment—S lendid — p p Tartar of Nongba Passag c of the Kour.

T HE Ofﬁ cers a ppoi nted to fo rm the staff Of ' w hi f of i i u General M ada toﬁ ere, a s c e t, L e tenant

lo l o t ebue son o f the cele rated and un Co ne K z , b ' f a uthor of thi s na me a tai n Bev outoﬁ ortuna te ; C p , ass NAR R AT IVE o r

In he ev enin we arriv ed at the sec on d tel . t g

m D emo urtchez lie after tra v elli n sta tion , na ed a , g twenty- eight wereta thro ug h a less i nteresti ng

where we s ent the ni ht. country, p g

w w o nd thi sta tion w ich we lef A fe ersts bey s , h t

rni n we sa w a reat num v ery ea rly in the mo g , g

r ca v erns which fro m No v em er to a rch be of , b M serv e a s dwelling s to the no ma de Ta rta r fa mili es su ect to Geo r a who like the almucks s end bj gi , K p on the neig hbouring heig hts the rest o f the year with their flocks. In these ca v erns, the women

o themselv es durin the wi ter in makin empl y g n g , wi the wool o f their ﬂocks a nd v er c oa se th , y r im lements the mo st ea utiful car ets whi ch a re p , b p ,

seen in the market o f Teﬁis.

’ At Kra ssnoi mc ste the ri v er hra m which , K , em ties itself into the o ur i s c os ed b rid p K , r s y a b g e

r d of ri ck fo rmin ﬁ v e arches w ich co nst ucte b , g , h

w ll d rv es he a ttenti f e ese t on o tra v ellers. The solidi t wi th which it i s uilt t a v m t h y b , i s p e en , a lu trad r s es, inte nal stai rca ses to the ri ver, and

width to ether wi th t e r i s o r r , g h u n o f a n the b idg e a t a short dista nce , o f sev eral to wers, and o f a ram a rt seem to ustif the e i f t n u p , j y b l e tha a op lent ci t existed here ia anci t T tu y en times. he si a

ture a s sev eral ro ads meet here nam h s , , ely, t o e o f Eli zabeth ol riv an Ka rakli s a nd Gon ri p , E , , n ; D ON J N v A B UA N ALE N . 289 tha t i s to sa o n the ca st that of kou y , Ba , which is o n th e b o rders of the a s ia n Sea th to f C p , a Persi a

o n the so uth and tha t of Asia tic ur , T key o n the

we st.

T he w e a ther wa s so sto rmy during the g reatest

a rt o f th e da tha t we were o li d to halta o p y , b g e b ut

no o n a t S ala lie and rea ched but v a ' la in g , , y te the

ev en i n Ast ﬁnnsko whi ch i s fo rt - ii v e w g , a y , y ersts

fro m D emourtchezali e. The bad accommoda tio ns

of th e ost- house which sca rcel afforded p , y any

shelter fro m the torrents of ra in tha tﬁ ll o li , b ged

us to fo rm a tent wi th our bourka s under a cluster

of w thi c k trees, here we made a ﬁre, a nd where

' ' Pri n ce s M a datoﬁ a nd Bev outo ﬁ found us on their

A t the reak of da the wea ther ha vin cleare d b y g ,

we ti nued o ur ourne receded the ener l co n j y, p by g a an d hi s com nion i n their ca rria e who sta rted pa g ,

tw o ho urs before o ur depa rture. We had scarcely tra v elled twelv e wersts when sev eral Georg ia ns sent by their master who wa s a friend of Prince ' o M a d a to ﬁ , ca me ut to meet and conduct us to the t o wer, which was a few wersts to the west of the

On the follo wing da y we pursued o ur wa y

th ou h an extensiv e l in o unded o n the west r g p a , b by a lo ng chain of mo untain s whi ch extend fro m

T i o r h d a t ni ht reached cha m eﬂs t Ka aba , a n g T 240 N ABD A 'rtv E o r

kho r ﬁft werste e ond o ur lace of enter i , y b y p ta n

The lains of Tcha mkhor rea tl resemble ment. p g y those of the prov ince of La Mancha ; no trees a re to be seen i n either ; and if thi s co untry were a s

o ulo us a s ain o r as there i s ev er reaso n to p p Sp , y

liev e it wa s in fo rmer times the tra v eller wo uld be , see i n the morning the steeple of the to wn wh ere ’ da u e w ld mina e e sa w h a . is y s j o rn y o u ter t . W

n o me g rea t number o f wild g oa ts in these plai s. S ' of the Georg ia ns belong ing to Orbellanoﬁ p re tended they knew how to ca tch them ; but th ey

i n v n on efore arriv i n hunted the ﬂocks a i . L g b g i h f a t Tcha mkhor s seen a column , a t t e oot o f which i s the ussia n redo u t earin tha t name R b b g , a nd forming a kind of squa re. Oppo site to thi s

la ce a nd on a stee a ccliv it o v er which the ro a d p , p y

a sses are the remains o f a rid e of three a rches p , b g , ag ainst which rush the rapid wa ters o f the riv er

T h mkho r c a .

We left T cha mkhor ea rly in the mo rning b y the roa d to E li za beth ol which i s twent - ﬁ v p , y e wersts fro m tha t lace The la ins thro u p . p g h whi ch we tra v elled a re completely barren ; bu t tho ug h the mono to ny o f the co untry wa s uni n terrupted we ha d plenty o f o ccupa ti on on o ur hands for such wa s the num er o f sna kes we met , b , which the excessiv e hea t of these days kept i n consta ntmo tion tha t a t ev er ste w r li , y p e we e ob g ed

242 NARRATIVE or himself clo sely atta cked withdrew into a ba ttery where he ha d an iron ca nnon o f fo rt - ei ht o un ds y g p , w i ch i s still seen di smounted near the la ce on h p ,

' he sa t astride and fou ht wi th which , g hi s sa bre

My limits will not allow me to 1ela te all that

said of the conduct of thi s han i s K , who exer ci sed unheard- of cruelti es on all those who wa s

hi s a utho rit and who de subject to y, lig hted in

' ma king ev en his wiv es and children suﬂer the mo st excrucia ting torments fo r the mo st triﬂing fa ult

d The inter reterof the comma n they committe . p dn t

f this lace who ha d liv ed with the Khan r o p , , elated to us, that his former master, curious to see whe ther the countenance of one of his most bea utif ul women was rendered more interesting by suffering t her than by pleasure, pu to such dreadfnl tor that she ex ired in the mi mes p dst of them,

D urin our short sta here we sa w a g y , ma n v b had een steward to the ha n an d w o b K , h ha d a lso ri n his expe e ced cruelty . As i t i s the custo m among the Mahometa ns to lower their eyes when an of the wi v es o f their rinces ass n ea r them y p p , one day the steward looked i nadv ertently a t o ne of these ladies whom he was in the ha bit‘ 0f meeté D ON J U N v N HA A A LE N. 243

in . On the ha n bei n in orme o f thi g K g f d s, he ca used him to be ro u ht efore him a nd asked b g b , him which side of hi s face wa s to wards her when she

s h te s w rd a se hi m. o u a e a ld p d T e unf rt n t to him, and the K ha n immediately ordered thatthe g uilty e e sho u ld be ut o ut tho u h he still ke t h y p , g p im in

situa tio n b the v i ctor Of the Russia ns w oh y y , as lig od to a ccept tha t of clerk in the mo sque Of

Eli e l mon o ther th s wi h zab thpo . A g ing h c be te

la e t d to u s, he sai d, tha t since the Russians too k

ossessi o f tha t rov ince there had een o nl p on p , b y ' one perso n condemned by the la ws to suﬂer ca pital unishm nt or in o ther wo rds tha t du p e ; , ring the

S a ce of ei hteen ea rs he ha d seen o nl p g y , y once

wha t i n the alace a nd in the resence f is p , p o h form w rformed al st l er master as e mo dai . , p y The Russian a rmy fo und in thi s fortress many

ecu i r reso urces which contri uted to i m rov p n a y , b p e the sta te o f their ﬁ nances ; but the bulk of the

the men employed in co nced i ng them were assa s

sina te hi s o rders tha t no e but h d by , on i mself might possess the secret; co nsequently the ‘Rus sian g ov ernment did not reap all those a dv antag es Whi ch they expected from the reputed wealth of

this Khan. The saloons of the palace of the Khan are at 11 2 244: xs n nxn v n o r

' ' present used a s an ho spi tal fo r the g a rri son o f . the

cit . lo se to a romena de whi ch extends to the y C p ,

ntrance o f the town a nd a d oins the al a ce the e , j p , Khan ca used a tower to be erected for the purpose o f o bserv ing thefrequent ri sing s of his tyra nni zed

le peop . On o ur arri v al a t Eliza bethpol I wa s i nduced by the co mmanda nt o f the distri ct to a ccept o f a l od in a t hi s ho use which wa s o ne o f the ﬁnest g g , in the cit a nd the residence a ssi ned to the y , g

l tion h T e ci nearest re a s of t e la teKha n . h ty pre

sents a confusion o f rui ns and houses newl uilt y b , mo st of whi ch ha v e lar e a rdens which i v e the g g . g to wn an a ea rance o f rea t extent tho u h its pp g , g popula tio n sca rcely a mo unted in 1820 to elev en h d inha i T i l undre b tan ts. he situa ton o f E iza

’ bethpol i s better a da pted for co mmerce tha n for

wa r As a milita r o int i o w i s i ce . y p t es t mportan ra ther to the impo tency of Persia than to its

roxi mit to the frontiers of tha t co untr a ud it p y y , i s eliev ed tha t he ussi wil em is i b , t R ans l d ol h ts fortiﬁca tion s when the na tural limi ts o f Geo rg ia

a re extended o the ri v er Ar e t a x s.

There are two other colonies o f Wi rtemburg hers i n the nei h ourhoo d of Elizabeth ol whi ch a re g b p , said not to ro s r so well a s those nea r Teﬂi s on p pe ,

n o f h lo sse of ac co u t t e v exa tions, extortio us, a nd s ev ery kind which these industrious fa milies es pe

l u a u 'rrv n Ol ‘

- h l:and. Ka i sli t twem the pu rine-s of Elisabet p , the h ttcr of whieh l m u tm d .

i l unculti vmd Al thoug h this co untry is mtn y , l h b no meam s a ile Pa ullel with the tin soi y t . road, to the we t, are su n sev eral thi ck form . Atm l hd ted at Ba dg which is fm-ty m

’ mi ndc d the roa d m a s - g ood u tlu t throq ll wh h r v e momin l ic I had haw ta elli ng in th g , continua l my jtmrney with the intention of reach

' hahbo ln wh ch is ir weruts be cnd t u k, i th ty y Ba d mhefou d g htfd l ; hut l had scarcely ad'

h a man riv er a chinn which was so y ca lled Kh t , t g reatly swelled by the ra ins of the preceding dq ,

M u n da n ourcd in v ai n to ford it.

Having lost more than two hours in seelti g a

fort -a d the even n bein far adv a nced s s h i g g , m the point of mmming mthe h st posb hom to

cro sdug thc ri ver on horseh elt at no very g rclt ' di stance fromthe ine whe we w r Ha vin p re e e. g oined the and a ked lace j m, s them to show us the p ,

diﬁ cult a fav o ur which m servant rewarded . y, y In by ma king thema presentof a bottle of brandy . hl o ur various a ttempts to cross, I g ot so thoroug y non J u n v n n u a a n . M w en ss well u every thing cuntsinsd i n 11w that bein unable to chan e m m ean, , g g y clothes, nd t e i ht becomi n ver cool I arr v a h , n g g y , i ed at Ohahboulak in hig h fev er ; butI experi enced b an

by a rm parg and is sima ted on a hill which ov er.

e s rr un in countr . It a looks th u o d g y h s g arden,

mflicient pasture for the horses belong ing to this o t n the followin da findin m w p s . O g y g y fe er a ’ ’ little abated, I set ofl at six o clock in the morn

n t w th r also inviﬁ n me to cont i g , he ea e g inue my

now h tem a were still cov ered with s , t o w ture wa s

v er mild an as I a dv anced the countr beca e y , d , y m do w la ud morc v aricd, the extmt of mea , snd the

w ﬂo in ever i number of streams hich w y d rection, shewing ho w well adaptcd it is fo r the propag ation whi indeed form he inci l w of sheep, ch t pr pa ealth

f ese rov inces. A little e ond Oske o th p b y rane,

which li es etween hahho ulak n hou h w b C a d C c a, e

entered a deﬁle, crowned wi th to wers, the sides of

w l difﬁcult to r on account of the stee . al , tu n p 248 na nna n v n o r

na ure - of the surroundin coun r do u t g t y , btl ess formed a ba rrier i n former times to the interior of the co untry . Beyo nd this deﬁle the roa d beco mes

lmost im ractica le and i s a continued a p b , a scent as

Eig ht wersts before rea ching Choucha there i s a ‘

ta ra ct the waters o f which fall fro m a h i h o ca , e g t f

h nd ises into a con one u red to ca v e rock . I ha v e

en told tha t durin the hea v rai ns i n win ter be , g y it

n ts num er of curious ets which a prese a b j , ppea r

ra ther the work of a rt tha n of nature. At the foot of this ca ta ra ct we were joined .by a si ng ular

‘ beg g a r, whom we sa w sitting by the side o f the roa d a nd whom I co uld no t et rid of eith , g , er by g i v ing him“ bra ndy or threa tening him; until we reached the cit when I av e him some mone y, g y, and he disappea red . I wa s a fterwards info rmed ' ‘ by Prince M ada toﬁ tha t he b elong ed to a set of

' lled debritches who wand d . a u v a g rants ca , ere bo t th se roa ds and tho se of ersia sometimes fol e P , lo w

in the carav ans ev en a s fa r a s . ndi he ar g I a . T y e

. almost naked a nd ha v e thei r. ﬂesh in , pa ted in

s lo s he . a hi k lu v a rio u co ur . T y ca rry t c c b, the

' po ndero us knoh ' of which is studded with

hese v a ondi in -n po inted ﬁints. T g a b z g Heron eses when the a roach a tra v eller merall l , y pp , g y ’

e ent him wi th frui ts and . then follo w h m pr s , i , pretending that their company is :the best: escort

NARRATIV! OF

themost useful and pro ductiv eprovinws of the

Russian empire ; aud it will become still ' more so

Geo i ha t a rt of ara ah order modern rg a . T p K b b ing on Eli zabethpol ma y be considered as the

vince the rest ein hi her and extremel well , b g g y rovided with o d s rin s is oth fertile n p g o p g , b a d

The ﬁne sk ure air and also the considera le y, p , b

elev ation on which Choucha is situated , constitute thi s city one of the most salubrious of the g ov ern

ment of t e e moment o m h Ca uca sus. From th f y arri v al here I experi enced a g rea t a meli oration in my health whi ch I enjoyed during the g rea test art o f the ex edition and until m return to p p , y

Teﬂis. It is a remarka le fa c tha t he fev r b t, t e

which rev ails throu hout these ro v inces a t p g p , ti n ta cks o r lea v es the pa e twith equal suddmmess. These v aria tions are the best barometer to a soer

tai n the tempera ture o f the co untry . The ine quality o f clima te which i s observ able in the v a

rio us rovinces bf the a ucasus ma be com ared p C , y p to that of Spa in ; for in the sa me manner a s the

ri ours of winter a re ex eri enced a adrid when g p t M ,

“ a t Mala a Valenci a and urcia the s rin g , , M , p g — ﬂowers are blooming the inhabita nts of Cho ucha

- f Ma whilst surro und the ﬁre side in the month o y , E nc N J UAN u )! HAL N. 251

r n the nks O e r atthe f ontier. o ba f th A a:ea. they are t u g athering in he harvest, and preparing the g ro nd

In no city of Asia is saddle- work do ne with re taste nd so idit tha at c The mo a l y n Chou ha . most essential part o f the workmamhip consists o f the curious embroidery with which not only

th sadd e bu th dl n r e l , t e bri e a d sti rups a re orna

’ ‘ ri ce Mada to ﬁ W o a ched cha n t P n , h re Chou o he

th had e on m rr v a e 11 , alr ady, y a i l ther , concerted hi s mea sures With the Khan respecting the gon i n ent of v alr he w t fu is n w ic t g ca y as o rn h, a d h h

n d to v u e a mou te ﬁ e h ndr d horsemen, who were

n r a d to a h s Bein now o their o D g e tan. g oblig ed to remain duri ng the whole of the 15th in tha t ' rinc ada o e ented us to the han ci ty, P e M t ﬁ pr s K , m da wi th him who inv ited us to dine o n tha t sa e y ,

ur de rture for Non ba ein ﬁxed for the fol ~ o . pa g b g

lowing morning .

The Khan appeared to be a bout forty- ﬂv e or r f : e was r ther tall a nd like ﬁfty yea s o ag e h a , ,

r st f t e a rtars h rown om lexio n the e o h T , ad a b c p

wn e and e rd t h v in lost in his bro yes h a ; bu a g ,

o uth h lf his o se in n action with the ersia ns y , a n a P , the expression of hi s countena nce wa s by no

t e m o ur a sin mea ns prepossessi ng . A th ti e f o p s g

ro u h h cha h inha ited a t wer in the th g C ou , e b o ”A! RA TIV E o r

o n one of the hills nea r the roa d of Chahbo ula k ,

and wh e a s a fa i thful follo wer o f the ro het er , p p ,

he ha d his ha rem.

at the door b the Kha n a nd his secretar o r y y ,

u sua ll ha v e a nd wi th who m the mi ht v er y , y g y

w ell di s ense seein the little need the ha v e p , g y

of hi eneral a li htin fr hi s m. On the g g g o m

horse the han too k him the ha nd a nd con , K by d ucted him to a n a pa rtment furni shed i n the

E uro ean st le where a do tin o ur fa shion p y , , p g ,

be sea ted himself in o ne o f the a rm- c hai rs.

Behind him stood hi s secreta r a nd sev r l y, e a

er o f hi s ala ce a mon who m o th oﬁ cers p , g was

e mema undhar who a cco rdin to the custo m th , , g

of the co untry, must accompany a ny tra v eller terta ined by his ma ster a s fa r a s the fronti ers

of the prov ince. Wi shing to see something of h the arem, and imag ining tha t the a tta chment shewn by the Kha n for Europea n c ustoms mig ht hav e dimini shed the sev erity which the

Asia tics o serv e wit b h respect to their women,

we walked to wards a v er d y pretty g a r en, ex

tremel well a tten ed to and surroun ed with y d , d

c des whi h we im i th cas a , c a g ned belong ed to e ha rem; but the E uropea n ta ste o f the Khan an Na s sa u “ or

seat on a cushion which was placed at one of tha windows of the saloon. the blinds of which

e l m who h d three sons two mes s d. An o d an s , nf whom had been included in the recent can,

i e d d he liberation the third tng nt, deman e t of , who had been impri soned for some triﬂing of

an ra e hi r e and or, fence. The Kh g nt d s p ay r, dared tha t a certain number of sheep sho uld he i in order o ensate for the lo ss g iv m to h m, to c nIp ’ a n d d his so im iso he h d sustai e uring n s pr nment.

han ra ciousl anted a ci rcumsta n o v er K g y g r , ce which it appea rs the presence o f hi s g uests ha d

i ce s we ha d a s reat s. shu e o f some nﬂuen , a g thanks as the Khan himself.

l t h wer of the ha n acco amm We ef t e to K , mp the mema undha a o un arta r extremel by r, y g T , y

ti v e a nd servi cea le wh w s an exce ntho rse ac b , o a lle man and a lso bv the sec et r f t e h n a d ; r a y o h K a , n sev eral domestics who di no t ara te from us , d sep

ill he follo win mornin ﬁ d our t t . the rst a g g On y, way to No ng ba lay throug h the roa d of Elizabeth l a d w s ent the ni h Ch bou ak where po ; n e p g tat ah l , the serv ants of the Khan had prepared the tents nos mu v a n nu ns . 255 n e a r the redo u t in wh ch I ha so ou b i d j rned, and w h ere we were v ed an xcellen u sa e ts pper. Prince ' M a atoﬁ wh lwa i d , o a ys man fested much interest f o r m health ha v n l arned from me the y , i g e kind

o ﬁ cer of the o st nv i e him to su er. p , i t d pp This

o fﬁcer informed us, that one of the two men who

ui me acro ss the riv er had h a d g ded , been found b the ossacks l in de nea r rock y C y g ad a , ag ainst

w hi ch he had fra ctured hi s skull. The secreta ry f the han who ha d o th o K , kn wn e deceased , told

u s, that he had heard of his dea th fro m his com

his ha ving drunk immoderately of the brandy

g iv en them by my serv a nt. On the following mo rning we continued o ur

ourne lea v in on the ri ht the road to li a j y, g g E z ' l Pri nce Mada toﬁ ro de a v er small bethpo . y

rse which ho wev er w- t a t such a ui ck ace ho , , , q p , that we were a ll o bliged to ride a t a smart trot

k w h him owards no on we arriv ed to eep up it . T a t the ba nks o f the Terter a small ri v er which

f o Alo n the whole of empties itsel i nto the K ur. g umbe o f snakes this roa d we fo und a g rea t n r ,

which the heat o f the sun inv ited from thei r holes

o heir v a rie a ed skins But o nce on the to sp rt t g t .

h r side o f the erter the ﬁelds bein ene ot e T , g g 256 n a nna rl v r. o r

v a d the tra v eller i s no lo n er rally culti te , g trou

h the si ht of these re tiles a nd ev r . bled wit g p , e y

o ur we came to the hamlet in which of the K , the

a undha r ha d re a red a lod in for us a nd mem p p g g ,

k r hards extendin to some dista nce. thic o c , g ’ On the follo wing da y we sta rted a t ﬁv e o cloc k

rnin eav in the ma in r a d to ro i n the mo g , l g o , p ceed

h b e- a ths whi ch were erfectl ra cti thro ug y p , p y p

le fo r o ur horses. The hea twas o v er oweri n ca b p g ,

he ro ad unev en but v er wood a nd and t , y y,

n o r a bounding wi th g ame. O u a rri v al a t the

o ur which thro u h thi s b e- road was a o ut K , g y b

- ﬁv e wersts fro m the hamlet where we ha d thirty ,

he ni ht the mema undha r and the rest of spent t g , the serv ants o f the Kha n bid us fa rewell. On the

o f the our we met o ne o f the a rta r borders K , T

hiefs of the rov ince o f o n ba dressed with c p N g ,

ore s lendo ur tha n ev en the ha n of a ra a h m p K K b , or any of the Ta rta rs o f distinction we had hitherto n His oniard a nd his sa re were o f v r see . p b e y

f m l w rkman hi rea tv alue and o ost admira e o s . g , b p The borders of his exterior tunic were bea utifully old and silv er the work o f the embroidered in g ,

NARRATIVE OF

CHAPTER XVII .

a — — huf Review, T rtar cavalry described Vi c ar:Harm an His

— nati ve troops Orchcatra and punchlnanoa - E ity of Shimm

' view wi th M usta ha Khan of Shirwan—The Khan s harm p , — Tent- His ambi tion Important conference Treasureﬁ —Hn mane s stemo ermolow—D an eris a ahended at thc hands y g pp — of Mustapha—Georg ian captai n an amateur of music D inner — gi ven by the Khan 3h Tartan —Ceremonies Table service — The pilaw Children of Mustapha Khan M ada m and his

‘ party ascends the hills ottt aucams.

Tm: ers e tiv e which the ri ht ank of e p p c , g b th o r resented is as ured on of t e most ic K u p , s ly e h p r turesque on the borders of thi s ri v er. Nea the lace where we were to land stood a la r e and p , g

cien m u s r ounded with v arious v ery a n t osq e, u r kinds of loft and wide- s readin trees amon y p g , g D ON W AN v AN nu nN. 259

' wlnc h w m mme ladcn with wild fruit. This fi r est o xtended as far as a line of hills bcali ng ‘ difla 'en t u ects me hleak nd ba rren some p , so a , co v ered wi th a sofi v erdure, and o thers heauti

ca noes whid tho h ro wed h onl one , ug y y hoatman,

and f r r h e w e all n ed a s o o u om g they er unhar ess , and b roug ht by the halter swimming behind the

W . We found several carpets spread under the

of s and so me a rta rs of di stinc io sha de the tree , T t n

se a s lendid dinner accordin to the fashio rv ed p , g n cf he countr in which the fruits of the m t y , ,

h h ourho o a unde . ga thered in t e neig b d, bo d We leftthi s plea sant spo t at three in the after noon and after an hour and a half ridin at; , , g , ri v e a t Aretche a v illa e containin a ut d , g g bo three

our si ua ted as are most of the ar r l t K , t , T ta hame s, i i n the midatof a thick forest. That we mg ht

o he so trou led either with he hea t th n t much b t , e

snakes or a tem orar lod in had , the insects, p y g g been prepared for us in the middle of a small NAR RAT IVE OF

. w w square It . a s composed of two ooden sta g es co v ered with ca r ets a nd cushio ns rai sed o n e p ,

o v e the other a nd s orted illars the ab , upp by p , hig hest of which was twelv e feetfrom the g roun d

d which we mo un ed a l r an to t by adder. He e w e

a de u lv m o r l a s the lace m o rse es a s co f ta b e . p witted a nd had a rand illumina tion in the v en , g e in wi th a v er oo d su er served to us a f g , y g pp ; ter which in im of o ur c m a nions the Genr , ita tion o p . e

ians whose ood humour still continued un a g , g ba ted we all oined in the da nce w i ch. wa s fro m , j , h . time to time reliev ed by our song s

Earl in the mo rnin we conti nued o ur our- y g . . j s ne , and a t a few wersts e o nd the v illa e y b y g . e tered a mo untai no us and a rren co untr i nter n b y, sected a riv er the wa ters of wh ch were o f a by , i reddi sh lue occa sioned a sort o f cla which b , by , y i s found in the ra v i es thro u h w ich the ri er . n g h v

After tra v e li for ﬁ v e ho s we a r rushes. l n ur g , , e riv ed a t a small la ce called Cha rkha fort we sts p , y r from Aretche, where we fo und the same kind o f lod in trea tment a nd a u a nce a s o n the g g , , b nd ,

c d ni h pre e ing g t.

Our road the next da la thro u h a o ulo us y y g . . p p

well- l i v In e he n and cu t a ted country . on of t u

ero us v illa es we a s e we sa w a ro meo m g p s d by, p na e ordered o n each si e with tr s extendin d . d ee b , g more han a werst to wa r a mo ue and ow n t . ds sq , en m ted with sev eral fountains, which evinced the

m Na nna rrv r. or

which the inha bitants experience from the mommt they cease to suppo rt a t the same time the a v arice f h hans a n the tri ute which the are o t e K , d b y

und to a to the ussia n em re esse tiall bo p y R m, n y

i ute to eir an uilli and ro s eri contr b th tr q ty p p ty . The palace o f the Kha n wa s b uilt a t v a rious

mes an diff ent a rchitects. The rinci a ti , d by er p p l

ar of this buildin which wa s occu i ed b p t g , p y ' rince M ada toﬁ and cov ered with ca r ets and P , p

' ta estr o ﬁ ered nothin v er rema rka le. The p y, g y b

re in the most mo dern art o f the ediﬁce and we p , consisted of a suite o f ro oms a d oinin a aller , j g g y, the wall s and ceili ng s of which were orna mented wi th looki n - lasses ordered a ta steful fo g g , b by lia e ai n ed and v a rni shed in th hine g , p t e C se ma n n er b an Ita lian who had been em lo ed b the , y p y y la h t ea rs a o hi s aller looked e K an en y g . T g y

cades formed the waters o f the fo untai ns b , by y

’ ’ Between the major s a nd the g eneral s a pa rtments i s another a rden lar er than the former and o g g , p osits to an interior stairca of th h t p se e arem, here i s a asin of whi te mar l ten fee in dia b b e, t meter ; which reminded me of tha t whi ch i s seen in o ne of the ooris h a la ces i n G rana da where ;the M p ,

Ahmcera es were behea ded . I ndeed the or a te g n , n on J U N VAN H A ALE N . 263 the ure sk a nd ev en the situa tion of on ba p y, N g , b ea r a rea t resem la nce to that art of ain g b p Sp , a lthou h none of the Kha ns notwithstan i g , d ng the w ea lth the ama ssed when h y , t ey a rbitra rily dis p o sed of the fate of the merchants a nd proprietors o f the countr ha s left a n mo y , y nument tha t can

b e com ared in ta ste or ma niﬁ cence w p g , ith tho se ra i sed by the Moors in the two princi pal capi tals h uth o f a in o f t e so Sp . The popula tion of Nong ba amounts to more ha i T than forty thousand in b ta nts. he g rea t num

er o f Armenians who ha v e la tel esta li b , y b shed

themselv es in this ro v ince contribute rea tl to p , g y

i ts ros erit and ha v e set a n exa m le of indu r p p y, p st y to the artars which i s b no means en ral T , y g e

on them The ri nc i al arti cle o f co mmerce a m g . p p i n No n ba is silk which no twithstandi n the g , , g larg e quanti ty used for shirts a nd o ther interior

v estments i s much reater than the a nnua l con , g

Opposite to the pala ce there i s an esplana de on

dred horsemen who fo d th conti en of , rme e ng t

No n ha and who receiv ed orders fo r their imme g ,

a te de art re for The comman di p u the Da g hestan . da ntof these men was a yo ung Tartar of only three

and- twent ears of e elon in to one of the y y ag , b g g uished firstfamilies of the province. He ha d di sting NAR RAT IVE OF himself in a simila r ex edition the r cedin ear p p e g y , "F h d e rank o f officer in the ussia n a nd el th R a rmy . It wo uld be v ery difi cult to fi nd in Euro pe a reg ula r corps whose a rms are i n better o rder than

hose which thi s co ntin en resented most o f t g t p , which were v er a ncient a s the were the i nherit y , y a nce of many g enera tions. In all the Ta rtar pro v inces there a re men who ha v e no o ther mea n s of g aini ng a subsistence than serv ing in these con tin g ents a s substitutes fo r tho se whose ag ri cultural o ccupa tions render their presence a t home indi s

en h s u em lv es p sable. T e e s bsti tutes present th se rea d a rmed and mo un ted and a re willin to a ct y , g a s such for a v er triﬂin re om ense Amon y g c p . g these ca me an old man f a o ut sixt armed wit o b y, h a musket a sa re a nd a onia rd an ca rr in o n , b , p , d y g the crou of hi s h rse a uita r a tro h which he p o g , p y had won in a com a t he ha d een en a ed in b b g g , fro m whi ch it wa s sta ined with blood in v a rio us

la ces an i p , d ha d rece v ed some sev ere cuts, whi ch he ha d e ca r q mend d . hi s m n no tw h y e T a , it sta ndin hi s adv anced a e was v er a ctiv e ro g g , y , bust, a nd a f g y , and ro m the ﬁrst moment a ttra cted the a ttention of all as much for his sing ula r a ppea r ance a s for h s ti i whi ch i g es cula tons and drollery ,

Amon the Tartars the ofﬁcers wha tev erbe theirran are dis g , k, tinguished ﬁ 'om the privates only by a silver cord and tassel wound round the hiltof thei r sword.

266 mann a-tu : o r

fo und an excellentlod in and a v er kind rece g g , y p w n condu cted tion . Our ho st, who a s an old ma ,

s to a roo m v er well li hted a nd cov ered with u y g , the ri chest ca rpet I ha d yet seen i n this pro v ince. All the furniture i n the principa l roo m of a ’ i t d cushio ns Tarta r s ho use cons sts of he ca rpets a n , the g old tissue with which they a re o rna mented weig hing more tha n the wool which they conta in . a vi n ta ken o ur sea t we were serv ed with re H g , eshin ev era es a nd fruits a s deli cious a s the fr g b g , y nv e are da ng ero us for a conv alescent. The co rsa o he arta rs articularl when the a re tion f t T , p y y wi h stran ers is no mean s an ima ted ev en if t g , by , their la ng uag e be thoro ug hly understood by thei r he o a sk ues io ns b ut the g uests. T y seld m q t y observ e all the rules of ho spita lity wi th the utmost

On the fo llo wing morning I took my lea v e of kind host a nd of a or Ba da rsk who te my , M j y , turned to hi s uarters a t No u ha and ro c eded q g , p e wi th the rest of o ur a p rty to wa rds Shirv a n . A few wersts e ond ara b we s w a s an b y Z a t a di t ce, emer in from a mon the mountains sev eral T a r g g g , tars on horse a ck who were co min to wa rds us at b , g r tro t Th a sha p . e principal o f them adv a nced from the mai n bod a nd with a tho usa nd demon y, stra tions of res ect info rmed the ri nce tha t he p P , wa s the mema undha r of the han of Shirv a n who K , with hi s suite co m o sed of a o ut twelv e ca v ali ers , p b , wa s sent his m ster to escort us to the ca ita l by a p , D ON J U N V A LE N A N E A . 967 a nd render the homag e to whi ch o ur g enera l wa s enti l t ed .

The d a ei n ﬁ ne and co ol a nd the road oo y b g , g d, the g en eral ag reed to ride a s far a s the enca mp ment w hi c h we were info rmed the mema undhar , by , h a d b een re a red fo r us a nd a twhich we r v p p , a ri ed ’ a t three i n the a fterno on the di stanc of , e the da y s

o urne fro m a ra ein ﬁft - six wers s Th j y Z b b g y t . e ten ts w ere itched i n the middle o f a m ado w p e , w a tered by o ne o f the numberless strea ms which ﬂo w f ro m the Ca uca sus to wards the Kour. They fo rmed r le n h e w a ci c , i t e c ntre of hich stood a tent, where a n extremely di scorda nt orchestra pla yed a mo no n ur to no us ai r for o ur a museme t. A c tai n,

su o rted two wooden illa rs wa s la ced be pp by p , p fo re the tent ehind which two a rta rs di s la e , b T p y d their unchinello s dressed accordin to the fa shio n p , g o f the co untr a nd erfo rmed v ario us adv e tur y, p n es anal o us o t e u o ms o f these o l hi og t h c st pe p e. T s amusement which is v er a ncient a mon them i s , y g , considered by the Ta rta rs a s the most ing enio us u h w p blic s o . T he old v etera n who ha d oined us a t o n b , j N g a , a nd who ha d hitherto eha v ed with ro riet b p p y, reco mmenced hi s fo llies a nd ta kin u hi s uita , g p g r, sa n g in a v oice mo re lo ud than harmonio us the balla d o f the do ug hty Runstad No thing co uld equa l the delig ht o f the mema undha r and o f so me of o ur Geo r ia ns who seemed a s uch enra tured g , m p a s the a r him lf a nd who now nd then durin h d se , a g

o ur dinner remained motio nless, and entrea ted our N 2 268 NAR RATIVE o r a ttention to the ﬁne perfo rmance ( o f this modern Or heus who thrummed the rodi ies o f v a lour p , p g ill a fter midni ht of hi s hero t g . The v alley where we ha d o ur enca mpment lay w een T za khana a small ha mlet of a o ut fo t bet , b ry

itants a nd the o undari es o f hirv a n whi ch inhab , b S , o n this side a re fo rmed by the ra pid strea ms deo din m the a uca sus a nd fo rmin the scen g fro C , g Archipela g o which the Ko ur presents fro m this

pro v ince to the Ca spia n Sea . Early on the fol w da we entered Shirv a n The co untr lo ing y . y alo ng the roa d in thi s pro v ince differed fro m tha t o f o n ba onl in its ein mo re woo d a nd i ts N g y b g y, mea do w s being mo re intersected with ri v ulets ; the chief wea lth o f the co untry consi sting o f sheep mem n and ca ttle. The a u dhar who w s a rea t , a g reeder o f horses ha d a cco rdi n to his o wn ac b , , g count a o ut fo ur hundred co lts and oa sted tha t , b , b i s his ma ster ha d all h s b e t horses fro m him, for

wh h e wa s a id onl wit ic h p y h a ﬂa ttering look . In the ho e o f rea chin in the a fternoo n F ittah p g , w hich i s the usua l residence of the ha n a n K , d

’ ﬁft - ﬁ v e wersts fro m the la ce o f o ur enca m ment y p p , w e o n nued ur . c ti o o urne r j y a fte o ur repa st. On co ming wi thin ten wersts o f tha t city the co untry i barren and i n so m l s , e p a ces co v ered wi th ruins a d to m s ea ri n Ara ic i n ri i n n b , b g b sc pt o s ; a nd the direction o f the ro a d whi h , c had hitherto been fro m wes to ea st cha n ed to wa rds o r t , g the n th, a nd a fter a co nsidera ble circuit we beg a n a scendi ng a b whi h extends a s far a s ill c Fitta h. A few wersts

270 NA nnA 'n v n o r

' l o r ﬂi rs ri nce Orbellanoﬂ and m self al u o ce , P y exce ted co mmenced a lo n conference wi th M us p , g ta ha which wa s no mea ns an p , by

for the la tter.

usta ha han w a o ut ﬁft ears o f a e M p K as b y y g , ll a nd co r ulent a nd o f a ro ust con stitution ta p , b , which did no t seem much impa ired either by the w n e had receiv d o r the numero us o u ds h e , by remo rse which he o ug ht to ha v e felt fo r his n um berless crimes and conti nual i ntrig ues wi th the i ral o inio n ia . A co rd n to ene court o f Pers c g g p , fo unded on the g rea t rev enues of this pro v ince a n on the econo m o serv ed the ha n he ha d d y b by K , ‘ i n his co ﬂers more tha n duca ts, whi ch in

untr i s o i thi s co y c ns dered a g rea t sum. At the time of the la te trea ty of peace between Persi a a nd ussia this rov ince wa s incor orated with the R , p p a tter a nd conse uentl its han ecame tri ut r l , q y K b b a y

to Russia . Fro mtha tmomentMusta pha beca me the g rea test nem o f the ussia ns who ha v e often de ec e y R , t ted him i n v a rio us cla ndestine dea li ng s wi th Persia o th r nemies o f o v ernment His d and e e the g . esire swa i n des otica ll more than his reli io us of y g p y, g f na tici sm ca used this ha tred which in o ur a rm a , , y had g a ined him the appella tio n of the bea rded w serpen t of Shi rv a n . He a s moreov er a near rela tio n a nd intima te friend of the Kha n of Ka z ko um k a ins whom o ex d itio n wa s y y , g a t ur pe intended ; but to wards which he was oblig ed to furni s un r d ca valr the con in ent o f h four h d e y, t g D ON J U N v a n A m u m. 271

cei v ed how insincere his conduct must ha v e been on this occa sion ; but as it wa s the constant sys tem of General Yermolow nev er to shew any ' mistrust of the a rta rs General M toﬂ T , ada was o f thi s fromthe two o ther pro v i nces neither wo uld i t ha v e been just to ma ke the people o f Shirvan

to tell me usta ha had durin the a udie ce , M p g n used ev ery endea v o ur to conv ince him tha t the Ernperor Al exander ha d no ta mo re fai thful sub ect to defend his interests nor General Yermo o w j , l a more sincere friend to co - o pera te in the pa ciﬁca

himself. hilst sa in this he re e tedl l W y g , p a y p a ced his rig ht hand no w on the hilt o f hi s poniard to enote force and now on hi s rea st in token of d , b shi fri end p. The a udi ence ein interru ted the kalion b g p by , whi ch wa s bro ug ht to us to smo ke a ccordi ng to shion of the co un r the h the fa t y, K a n inv ited us to dine wi th him on the follo win da and we k g y , too

o ur lea v e. As Prince Mada toif had good for hi s and o ur safet durin the ni h and as y g g t, we were without an escort the eneral from t e , g h moment of our a rri v al proposed tha t ev ery one of hould erform dut aro und our ki v itki ther us s p y , e being ev ery thing to apprehend fro m the a udacity 272 n s n na mv n o r

' of sta ha a d from th facili t with whi ch. he Mu p , n e y g htta ke refug e in Persia with his treas ures and his women .

On the follo win da the han ca me to rince g y , K P " M ada toﬁ s ki v itka to a him a v isit and a fter p y , wa rds conducted us to hi s o wn which wa s thirt , y yards di sta nt. Musta pha wa s a s much a tta ched to the a nci ent cu sto ms o f the co untr a s the ha n y , K of Kara ba h ha d a ffected to be to tho se o f E urOpe. As this wa s the ﬁ rst dinner entirely in the Ta rtar fashio n a twhich I ha d b een resent I s all a ttem t p , h n

‘ a descriptio n of it. The co m a n consisted o f the han the eneral p y K , g ,

mo st o f the o ﬂicers o f our a rt a nd o f three. of p y , the principal indi v idua ls belong ing to the family f h h n w w l a out his wn o t a ho ere al e. e K , b o ag These three persona g es rema ined sta nding until the ha ermi tted their sittin do wn to di nner K n p g . F or the rest we a ll sa t do wn on the ar et a s so on , c p

as we entered the ki v itka . Before dinner was serv ed three a ttendan ts ca me in the o ne rin i n , b g g a silv er ba sin a nd ewer the other a ﬂa on o f r s , g o e wa ter with a erfo ra ted old lid a nd the h r , p g , t i d a a kin o f v ari l cotton n p ous co ours. Ha v i ng all suc cessiv el wa shed o ur ha nds commencin y , g by the han and the e eral a nd had them s ri K g n , p nkl ed ' wi th the odo rifero us w a ter, sev eral other attend

nts entered earin sa lv d o a b g ers, a n presented ne to the an which c nta in d r Kh , o ed his inne a nd tha t of ' General Ma da to ﬂ the rest ei n di s ute , b g trib d a morg

us one salv er etween thr e. , b e

976 n a s na mv n on

CHAPTER XVIII .

The Khana or province of Bakou Abundance of naphtha Wei -shi in fire Tenets of Guebres- Persia ns and Hindoos pp g ’ — Zoroaster s followers—Phenomena of mphthL —Forests Bridg e — over a fii g htful chasm of the rocks Gorg es of the Ca uca sus — — described—M ag nificent and v alua ble timber Ysa Beck Ri ch — La nds Chess a fa vourite g ame of the Ta rtars —Town and pre — — vi nce of Kuba Crag g y ba nks of the Kulinka Baron de Wrede the commanda nt—Ra vines—J ea lousy of the Kubans Greg or-led; “ commissary g eneral—Madame Greg ori efi—Asha n n i an joins — the Russi an expedi ti on The troops march fromKuba —Bivoua c

cov ered with rose- trees—Abundant g ame—A large ’ and exqui si te partridg e—D elig htﬁ xl province—Ashan s cav alry — is hea ded by hi s v ali ant brother—D escription Town of — — Tchi akour Park of artillery—Handsome Females Ri ch cu; — — pets of Tchi akour D iﬁ cult passag e of the torrents The troops mar r D a ch fo the g hesta n.

ON lea v ing Shirv a n thro ug h the ro cky deﬁles o f the auca sus the ha na of Ba kou i s left C , K o n

the ri ht. his ro v ince which eca me su ec t g T p , b bj to the Russia n empire a t the time o f the tra g i c dea th of ri nce Tchitchia no w tho u h the smallest P , g of an in the o v ernment o f Geor ia i s nev erth y g g , e less one of the mostproductiv e to the g o v ernment; n o n w a s v a n H 2 AL E N . 77 n o t only on a cco unt of the a dv a nta g eo us situa tion o f its ca ital on the orders of the a s ian Sea p , b C p , b u t for the g reat abundance o f na phtha fo und thro u u g ho t the prov ince. An Armenia n pa ys a n a n nua l rent to the ov ernment o f rou les g b , a er mone fo r the ro duce o f a certain num er p p y, p b o f wells The t i l . g rea est part o f th s a rtic e is ex o rted to ersia and the remai nder is used in the p P , c ountry to preserv e the roofs of the ho uses and o ther uildi b ng s. In the v icinity of Ba ko u are still fo und some fa milies o f Gue res o r a ncient ersia ns a nd o f b , P , indo o s wh w shi a u reme Bei n under H , o or p S p g the s m l here i s a la ce a o ut twent y bo of ﬁre. T p b y w arsts fro m tha t city where the pri ests o f Zoroa ster still ma inta in mea ns o f the na htha the rimi , by p , p

ti v e fa na tici sm of the fi re- wo rshi ers who ho w pp , , ev er do no he m coo ki n thei r v ictual s , t sita te g by tha t fire whi ch the li ht m the sa me ma nner as , y g as b a l in a to rch to the ca v it ma de i n g , y pp y g y i h la in the ea rth. The flame i s exting u s ed by p c g o n i t a w h s rin s or its e clo t . here a re t T p g , p , which pro duce dai ly mo re than half a ton o f

a htha . In ummer w en the so uthern winds n p s , h increa se the hea t of the a tmo s here stro n o scil p , g la tio ns a re ex erienced o n tha t so il a nd v a rio us p , n n phe ome a wi tnessed . ur r a d tha t To return to our j o urney . O o on a la a cross the chain of the Ca ucas us which d y y , Th we must tra v erse to enter the Da g hesta n . e torrents in this part of the country were no t so 278 na a a a u v n o r swollen as in other places of the Ca uca sus ; but

fra ments of rocks whi ch the im etuo us rains a nd g , p th ws de a ch fr he mo unta ins a nd a ha d t ed om t , by the thick forests which a ppea red a s if no ha tchet had ev er cleared a n a rt o f t m and whi ch y p he , l d o f ot On ob ig e us t proceed pa rt of the way on o . the most elev a ted oint of the ro a d where w e p , u d he rinci a l obsta cles hoped to ha v e conq ere t p p , we met wi th a n enormo us fi seure of a bo ut 40 feet wide a nd more tha n 3000 dee o v er whi ch i s a p, matic rid e formed si l of three trunks o f b g , mp y trees co v ered with bra nches no t more than three feet wide a nd ha v in no alustra de or railin o f , g b g any kind. ' fi w alwa s too k the lea d a nd Prince Ma da to ho y , who ro de on a sma ll o n o n reachin this p y , g bridg e di d not hesita te in pa ssing o v er it o n ho rse ack a n exa m le which we were a ll o li ed to b , p b g fo llo w lest we mi ht su ec t o urselv es to ridicule. , g bj It i s ho w v er im o ssi le to descri e the sca ns , e , p b b o n cro ssin thi s fri htful ulf g g g , do wn which the rider a nd his ho rse must inev i ta bly ha v e been hurled by the least mista ke o r hesita tion in either hen all o u a r h . W r p ty a d cro ssed witho ut an a ccident one o f the officers y , ' a sked Genera l M ad a tofi the na me o f the bridg e

‘ to which he re lied tha t the mo s ro ria te he p , t app p ’ ” o uld t ink of was e s d s c h Beel u Bri . A , z b b g e we were the ﬁrst Russian o fﬁ cers who ha d ev er as d tha t wa and as there w o t the sl ht p se y , as n ig

280 n a na n n v n OF

who with sev eral o thers wa s co ming to meet u s . The country from this point to Kuba a ppea red like a prolong ed g a rden ; the v a riety a nd pro ductions o f which ev ery mo ment reminded me o f v la n n o f er ein oin ed my na ti e d. Half a h ur a t b g j those ar ars we a rriv ed a t a ha mlet called by T t , Khilba r where lod i n s ha d een re ared fo r u s , g g b p p

by Yaa Bec k in a n old ruined mo sque . Under a o co close to o ur uarters we sa w p rti q , some arta rs dee l en a ed in la in a t chess T p y g g p y g , a g a me which i s fa milia r ev en to the lo west elm

in hi s countr fro the n i i t t y m remo test a tqu y . We spent the nig ht in the o nly saloon formed by the na v e o f the mos ue who se v a ulted roof wa s q , li hted v a rio u m The v o ra ci u g by s la ps. o s a ppc tita s o f the a rt ein a ea sed the ila w p y b g pp by p , the oistero us mirth o f the Geor ia ns and the b g , twang ing g uitar o f the Tarta r balla d si ng er o f o n ba rev ented o ur ta kin scarcel a n N g , p g y y

’ At ﬁv e o clock o n the following morning we started fo r u a th o u h r l K b , r g a oa d a terna tely bor de ed with o rcha rds a nd d Th w r g ar ens . e hea t a s here as excessi v e a s tha t experienced i n the pl ile in the mo nth of ul a v in of Cast J y . H g tra v elled during the whole mo rning wi tho ut halting w h a n where e rea c ed u a o ut oon . hi a ny , K b b T s city is the a nci ent ca pital of the Khana bearing i s name a nd when i t eca me a ro v i nce o f ussia t , b p R , he ca it of he hes I w n ed t a l t a tan . t is a s am p D g , howev er no mea ns so ood a to wn a s sev era l , by g D ON J UAN VAN H AL E N . 981

o thers o f thi s district. The streets a re so narro w a s sca rcel to allo w a v ehicle to a ss thro u h a nd y p g ,

th e city is surro unded by a n ancient half- rui ned w a ll nea r whi ch runs the riv er ulinka who se , K , steep and crag g y ba nks g i v e it a barren a nd wild t a spec . Our party alig hted a t the ho use of General B a ro n de rede w o wa s then the comma ndan W , h t tha t i s r ct nd a t who ho use rin o f d t i , a se P ce M a d a toff a nd myself too k up o ur qua rters during o r esidence a t u a friendshi with u r K b . My p R en mka m h who a s oun m B aron e p , w a c try a n of de rede o werfull re n Genera l W , p y co mme ded me e ntions o f th l to th a tte e atter, who , ho wev er, dis pla yed a n unbo unded hospita lity to wa rds ev ery he a ll r one o f o ur pa rty . Fro m t g e y o f the ho use o f the g eneral a re seen a number of pic turesque i h i a u us s i ra v ines, w t wh ch the C sac i on th s s ide

e d bu hich add to the dism l a ear: i nt rsecte , t w a pp hi but he in i e n ance o f the city . No t ng t t ma t u ion o f the Russia n military and ci v ili ans ca n render supporta ble a residence in Kuba for commerce h s hitherto ma de so little ro ress here h a p g , t a t ev en those perso ns who ha v e resided lo ng i n o r ia ca nno t hel remarkin the w Ge g , p g a nt of activ e

interco urse a mon the na tiv es. his howev er is g T , , al so more or less observ a ble in all the Ta rta r

prov inces bo rdering on Geo rg ia . At Tcﬁis bo th

' sexes a re indi scrimina tely metwi th in the ho uses and in the streets ; butin these pro v inces the one a cts

a iler to the o ther a nd whether itbe in s ciet a s j , o y, m NARR AT IVE or in the ublic romenades o r in tra v ellin no t a p p , g , wo ma n is to be seen ; butwhen this o ccurs, we scarcely recog nise in her a bei ng endo wed wi th the same faculties and entitled to the sa me rig ht

u a w - General Gre K b , as tha t of the Co mmissary ' o rieﬁ who ided in thi g , with his ami able lady res s ‘ cit . The societ Of orich dressed y y Madame Greg , ' m the uro ea n st le a nd ossessin the no E p y , p g

m an w v h l v alued b us , a s a no elty so igh y y that we could ﬁnd but little time to exa mine the ruins an i nt med ls inera l o tanica l m , c e a , m and b p dnctions ﬁne ho rses recious a rms and other , , p , curi osities which render this country so interesti ng to a forei n The dista nce of o ur res ecti v e g er. p cou tries n d la ce whe e n , and the remote a d i sola te p o ur ac ua in a n e was formed drew closer o ur q t c , so i l d ma sa without an exa e c a ties ; a n I y y , y g g

’ t is e ual to a ea r s co m nionshi in uro e. ry , q y pa p E p On the da after our a rriv al at u a the 3l st y K b , a w we w we hea rd the Of M y, hilst ere at di nner, ratn lin of horses and soon after two erson t p g , p ' who were to ﬁ ure m a di stin uished manner ag es, g g dition made their a ea rance a ccom i n our expe , pp , e of them was ponied by as numerous retinue. On he chief of small rov ince cd Ashan Khan, t a p u and situa ted between this tha t of joining K ba, ,

NARR AT IVE OF

Kuba to a ccompany the g eneral on hi s depa rture. The co nv o o f ro v i sions so em a rra ssi n i n a y p , b g ' ma rch tho u h indis ensa le in a co un tr a fi o rd , g p b y in but few reso urces which were co nsidered in g , suflicient ev en to the frug ality of the Russia n so l ' diers w as intrusted to the o mmi ssa r Gre o ri efl , C y g , who receiv ed on tha ta fternoo n o rders to depa rt. On the 1st o f J une a t rea k o f da the ro ther b y , b of Asha n Kha n co mmenced hi s march a t the hea d of a ll his troo s who soo n a fter were p , h ua dron f o s cks At si x in the a fter t e sq o C sa . ' noon o ur pa rty left the ci ty a cco mpa ni ed by n ral de rede a nd sev era l o f his offi cers w ho Ge e W ,

sual esco rted us a rto f o ur. wa a s u p y . On the follo win mo rnin we left with g g , , the risin sun o ur lac e o f biv o ua c which w a s i g , p , n le santl woo ded v alle a nd roceeded thro u h a p a y y , p g

u ictures ue ﬁelds, co v ered with ro se trees . T he p q . ex uisi te fra ra nce emi tted them a nd whi ch q g by , the mo rning dew rendered mo re fresh a nd rateful the v a ried wa r lin of a multitude o f g , b g bi rds who ha d their nests in these delig htful o wers and the si ht o f sev eral ca sca des w b , g ho se

‘ la ful wa ters lea t fro m thei r stee ummi p y p p s ts, produced o n ev ery sense a n i ndescribable feeling of delig ht. One o f the nobles belong ing to the suite o f Ashan Khan ma de me a present of a small ﬁa on o f o il extrac ted fro m these ro ses a nd w g , hich, when so me mo nths a fter I co mpa red with the best otto o f ro ses o f urke sur a ssed it n f T y, p i rag ance D ON J N V UA AN HALE N . 285

B e o n d these Woods o f ro ses s rea ds a n exten~ y p . si v e fo re st so much a oundin in a me and , b g g , do ub tl e s s so li ttle ursued the a rta rs tha t p by T , no tw i th sta ndin the no i se o f o ur numero us ro u g g p, w e freq u ently ha d within the rea ch of o ur whips the la rg est pa rtridg es tha t a re perha ps met with in a n o untr a v in w i h o y c y . H g e g ed ne o f them

ta k en a li v e b a a rta r i t exceeded thirt - wo y T , y t b ullets o f an o unce ea ch a wei ht which o , g , c n si d eri n the li htness o f the ﬂesh o f these irds i s g g b , re The ﬂ v a lly extrao rdina ry . a o ur o f the par tri d es o f the a hesta n i s a cco rdin to the o i g D g , g p ni o n o f co nnoi sseurs su erio r to tha t of th , p e

phea sa nts fo und o n the borders o f the Alaza nn. After halti ng fo r a sho rt time in a meado w

wa te a clea r ri v ulet where i n a ll a ea ra red by , pp nce the b tta lio ns o f the ex editio n ha d enca m ed a p p , w e w v erta ken the ca v al r of Asha n ha n ere o by y K , who ha d biv o uacked o n the prec eding nig ht a t a o ur r r It i s no t o ssi le f sho rt dista nce i n ea . p b or a ny o f the Ta rta r pro v inces to present a mo re splen did conting ent tha n tha t bro ug ht o n this h her i w occa sio n by Ashan Khan . W et t as the i nterest felt by these troops a t entering o n a ca m pa ig n in which they were ea g er to a v eng e o n thei r enemi es the v exa tio ns they had experienced fro m them ; or whether the enthusia sm by which they were a nimated in ha v in a t their hea d the rother g b . o f Ashen ha n who a cco rdin to the enera l K , g g o pinio n wa s the mo st v a lia ntwa rrio r kno wn a mong

the a r a rs and a t who se wa r- cr hundreds wer T t , y e ses NAB l A 'l ‘ I VE or

read to oin him or whe er Ashen ha n free y j ; th K , from the reli ious fan i ci s of the ussulma ns g at m M , had la bo ured to dra w his people fro m the o bw ure condi ion in which like the rest of the a rta rs t , T , the ha d een sunk fo r a es ivi n them the y b g , by g g eneﬁts of a etter educa tion a more re ula r b b , g

certai n it i s tha t the 0 m n of li ht ca v a lr , 8 0 e g y, who were extremel well mo unted a nd a rmed y , a nd whose ma rtia l a ir a nd cheerful countenan ces

ev inced the lea sure the felt a t thi s enter ri se p y p ,

o l fo und in h tha t c u d be t ese pro vi nces. shen han a nd his ro ther ho wev er thou h A K b , , g com anions i n arms and oth men o f su eri o r p , b p minds co uld no t endure ea ch o her and no thin , t , g

but the fear of di spleasing the g eneral - in- chief d T seemed to keep their wra th within boun s. he la tter a vo ided a s much a s possible to joi n us i n a a s he wa s a v erse to excha n e wo rds in o ur m rch, g

a conv ersa tion where his bro ther too k a pa rt. All the nobles of his prov ince by who m he wa s sur ro unded were a rmed with la nces made o f lo n , g and li ht c nes like tho se of the Coords o f ersia g a , P ; the wore also ca s ues coa s of mail a nd round y q , t , shields which tho u h v er a ncient were as , , g y , ri t e h ade hi s b g ht as if h y ad been just m . T armo ur is a mong them the best proof of thei r l l n e a no e i ea e and serv a s th r lett rs ten . b g , es ei p t Wha tev er the ossessed o f v a lue useful in wa r y p , , the were a o ut thei r ersons and the a eared y b p , y pp

ses NAR RATIVE or

witho ut our findin o ne we were o li ed to sus g , b g pend o ur v a in efforts until the follo wi ng mo mmg i n order to a v oid a ny mi sfortune. Ha v ing hea rd a t Kuba the bea uty o f the w o a men o f T chia ko ur hi hl extolled a nd desi ro us g y , o f a scertainin the truth w e ma de v a rio us la w f l g , u i ncursions into the to wn to explore the ra re bea u ties i t con a ined h o ur sa ti sfa c io n t . uc t o t w e M , fo und tha t we ha d no t een mi sinformed a n b , d, oreo v er tha t their i nterco urse with the o ffi m , by ers o f a rtiller sta tioned there the ha d lo stmu ch c y , y of thei r na tiv e rusticit which fre uentl destro s y , q y y the fa v o urable impressio n which their fine perso ns

excite. T he interio r of the ho uses i n Tchieko ur is g e nerall clea n a nd co mfo rta le a nd their ca r ets y b , p , the ma nufac turing o f which is their chief bran c h o f industr a re o f a su erior uali t thei r colo urs y , p q y, being a s brig ht a nd perma nen t a s their pa tterns a re s eful ta t .

n he fo llo wi n mo rnin a t da - rea k the O t g g y b , Za ma o ur ha v in decrea sed half a foo t rince g , P ' M a da to ﬁ a v e o rders o r o ur de a rture a nd the g f p , tra in o f a rtillery a nd a mmuni tio n co mmenced heir ma rch Ashen Kha n resi nin to the t , g g m the uide in who m he ha d the rea test trust g g , whilst o ur pa rty a t the hea d of the ca v a lry fo l lo wed in sin le ﬁle o ur o wn uide who wa s a g g , i o h t w f u na t v e f t e o n, a nd who , fea rful o o r en co untering so me a ccident fo r which he mig ht be ma de res onsi le shewed considera le timi . p b , b D ON V J UAN A N HALE N . 289

rom the mo n w m di ty . F me t e co m enced cro ssing th e torrents the wa ter wa s u to o ur sa ddles an , p , d o ur ho rses g o t enta ng led with the trun ks a nd b ran ches tha t ﬂoa ted a o ut whilst the rea ks a d b , b n s tones o f the unev en soil g rea tly i ncrea sed di ﬂiculties, which were still mo renumero us when w e a ttempted to cli mb the steep a nd rocky ban ks i nter o sed themselv es in o ur assa tha t p p g e. On l ea v ing these ba nk s we ag a in immersed in thi s a rentl i ntermina le sea in whi ch w m a pp y b , e a de so i ttle ro ress tha t ev en a fter stru lin fo l p g , g g g r two

ho urs with the torrents, Tchia kour wa s still wi thin

nno n- sho t an d thou h we commenced fordi n ca ; , g g a t ’ ﬁ v e o clock in the morni n it wa s a st ten w g , p hen ched the o site sho r we rea Opp e. The scene whi ch so meny men sca ttered Over tha t wide sheet o f wa ter presented in thei r v a rious resses uniforms and a rmours a nd the eculi d , , , p ar a ttitude o f eac h in endea v o uring to preserv e hi s ms fro m the wa ter wa s hi hl ictures u a r , g y p q e and tin for the s ecta to r tho u h so mew interes g p , g hat

i rk so me to the a cto rs. The conti nual wa rs Of which the Dag hesta n

ha s been the thea tre, must a t all times ha v e been rendered memorable by these impetuous torrents in which no twithsta ndin the , , g g ood der and reca utions we ha d serv ed we lo s o r p Ob , ttwo

n nd six horse . At len th ein a ll a s m me a s g , b g se ’ bled a t elev en o clock in the woods which extend lo n the a nk we e a n o ur ma rch a nd soo n a g b , b g , r o hen Kh n after entered the terri to y f As a .

V OL . 11. O 996 NARRATIVE or

CHAPTER XIX .

‘ Arrival a t the encampment of Prince M ada toﬂI—Prepan ti ons of Surg ha i Khan—The comman d of the cav alry is intrusted to — — Ashen Khan Rev i ew of the Tartar cbntin g enL Prince Orb cl.

of the youthful sons of Ashen to Prince RIM —M ili ta ry — opemﬁ onL —D escription of the town of Kuragh Fortress of Chi rag h—D eﬁci en cy of timber—Adv an ce upon J oserek—Posi ti o n

‘ d Surg hai Khan His ca valry described—Attack made by

’ — ’ Kha n s brother The enemy s ca va lry routed - P reparations fur a g eneral a ttack on J oserek Camp of Surg ha i Khan—Peril o us post of the author—He successfully lea ds hi s column to th e

’ tar horseman formerl of Na oleon s M amelu e uard. , y p k g

ASHAN KH N to who m our resence in hi A , p s territor so la tel inv ad ed the enem w s y, y by y, a a sub ect for con ra tulatio n had re red j g , p pa re freshments for us a t the ﬁrst v illa e we ca me to g , which were serv ed in the Asia tic st le in a a l . y , g ler mm ndin a ea utiful ro ect a d sh ded y co a g b p sp , n a

NAR R AT IVE OF

n whi ion e hi s o rders, circumsta ces ch occa s ed som

n r scenes etween the two ri v al ro thers and a g y b b , to which I shall soon ha v e occa sion to a dv ert.

mornin of the 4th the v ario us bat On the g , talions of our expeditiona ry army were assembled at the a ppointed pla ce. At the hea d o f o ur line s the a rtill er a nd a tthe o osite extremit wa y , pp y whol f he a rta r ca v alr formed i n uch the e o t T y , s reg ula r o rder as is by no mea ns common a mo ng m the Asi a tics, i n who se artial co untenances the plea sure they felt a t the inspiring so unds of our u ic so well ada ted to rodu e mili ta ry m s , p p ce a d ep ressio n on their fa nta stic ima ina tions was imp g , strong ly depicted ; whilst the bea uty of the spot n which the rev iew took la ce and the ﬁ ne w ea o p ,

her im arted to it a dditi onal s lendo ur. t , p p

ur force consi sted o f twelv e fi eld- ieces be O p , l n in to the ei hth ri a de o f the a rm two of o g g g b g y, whi h were serv ed o ssa cks of the era k who c by C T , in ev ery respect a nswer the object for whi ch they a re destined ; o f the second ba tta lion o f g renadi ers f Geor i a o f the second and third o f Ab ron o g ; sa , line ; of two more of lig ht infantry of the aqua dro n of Co ssacks ; a nd la stly of the 3000 lig ht ca v alr to which the v a rious arta r contin ents y, T g o un ed The simila ri t of the e ui m a m t . y q p ents of these troo s with those of the enem a nd the p y, fusion which thi s mi ht occa sion rende con g , red the a da tio n of some distinctiv e ma rk necessa r and p y , Asha n Kha n ca used the whole ca v al ry to wea r a ranch o f room in their ca s or a s ues in h b b p , c q , t e D ON J nAN v AN H E N 2 AL . 93 manner of a lume which for their own reser p , , p v ation the wo he whole ca m a i n , y re during t p g . The custod of the co v whi wa s co min y n oy, ch g from u a to wards o ur en ment was in K b M p , trusted to the troo s s i n i hesta n p ta to ed n the D ag , under the orders of Ba ron e d Wrede. ' ri nce M adatofi accom ani ed veral of the P , p by se ' ofi ce rs of the sta fi , went in the afternoon to v isit Ashan han in his tent which stood in the centre K . , of the enca m men ere we fo und him en a ed p t. H g g i n such a v i olent di s ute Wi th his other tha t p br , neither of them too k the lea st noti ce of o ur a p roach which ha d ee announced to them p , b n by

thei r nobles. Long before rea ching the tent we had hea rd the loud and ang ry cla mours of the brother of Ashan an who sa t o osite to tha t Kh , pp i and was i n a fra ntic fit f ra e which i ch ef, o g , s all u mo the l Asia tics not at ncommon a ng cho eric . Hi s e es fla shin re a nd foa in a t the mo nth y g fi , m g , he tore Open his tunic with tremulo us ha nds ; and resentin his naked osom to his rother who m p g b b , e r nded with a tho usa nd o robio us e it e s h b a pp p h t , sa id tha t he had not the courag e to plung e his is rea s shan g er in h b t. A Khan mea ntime li stened to all his ta unts witho ut condescending to u an an swer ev er fea ture of hi s un ret rn , y co te re n nance exp ssi g the utmo st scorn . he rother o f Asha n Kha n was re uted and T b p , v e himself to be the mos v aliant warrior belie d , t is un tr He was i ndi nant tha t the co m i n h co y . g mand o f the ca v alr sho uld ha v e een iv en to y b g . NARRATIVE OF

shan when he considered himself a s the onl A , y w f m nwillin to one orthy o the chi ef com and . U g ' m l in of thi s to rince M adatoﬂ himself be co p a P , hallen i n hi s ro ther who wi th commenced by c g g b , the utmost prudence ha d hi therto a v oided a rup ture ; but ﬁnding tha t his o utrag eous conduct a n d use a v ailed him not franti c wi th des ai r he ab , p , e d wi asked fo r dea th a t his ha nds. Thi s h di th

such a n infuri a ted countenance, and v iolence o f

manner tha t when we a ttem ted to a rt him a n d , p p

“ is bro ther it seemed s if we were stru li n h , a g g g n r e lion s ener l ha wi th a en ag d . A it g al y ppen s simila r ca ses the oth had a rti sa ns a mo n in , y b p g ' their peo ple ; but a s Prince M a da toﬂ prev io us to ’ o ur v i sit to Ashens Kha n s tentha d nomina ted hi s ro ther to the command o f the v an ua rd t b g , his

i wrathful Achilles no sooner learned thi s appoin t- ment tha n he decla red himself sa ti sﬁed .

urro unded a fa mil wholl dev oted to r S by y y a ms , Ashan Khan was ev ery mo ment oblig ed to strug id s g le ag ai nstsimilar inc ent . In the ev eni n whilst we were still g , at dinner ' in the tent of General Madato ﬁ two little o , b ys , m armed fro head to fo o t with weapons propor tiona te to their a e entered the tent. he w g , T y ere two of the so ns f Ashan ha n a nd his i o K , mme ia te heirs who ha v in lea rned o ur a rri a l d , g v a t the nca m ment which was a t so me distance fro e p , m their la ce of residence had induced their tu r p , to to conductthem to head- quarters to curv e Prince " M a da toﬁ s intercession with thei r fa ther tha t he

NARR AT IVE OF martial zeal is the more sing ula r in the immediate

e ndants of the hana .na in the ev ento f lo sin d sce K , , g h r the use of any of t ei limbs, they forfeit the h of i nheritmce to the hans s w h rig t K , a as t e with the eldest who his la men sa w i case , by ess h s ht a ss to his next b rother a irc s n rig p , c um ta ce which on accountof its injustice seems deserving of no ti ce.

the mor in of the 5th the e t convo On n g , g r a y u a which durin the two rev ious da s from K b , g p y v erc me the rinci al obstacles on the ro had o o p p ad , being no w within a shortdi stance of our encamp

orders were i ssued for our de arture. We ment, p mmenced o ur ma rch a t three in the afternoon co , ,

endin the hei ht we had occu ied a nd irr. desc g g p , p d our roa d occasionall throu h deﬁles and sue y g , an unev en country tolera bly well culti v a ted and

ited till we reached ' an extensiv e v alle ten inha b , y

the cam where we iv o u ked . wereta from p, b ac ' Athough Prince M a da toﬂ was well a wa re tha t m havin retro raded to thei r fronti ers the ene y, g g , would no t a ttempt to i ntercept our communica which were so much a tta ched to their Kha n tha t

v er indi v idual wa s . a v olunta r s he a v e e y y py , g orders to the bro ther of Asha n Kha n to send detachments to scour the country o n both sides o f i o ur s ldiers h ro u e The di sc line f o o a d .a our t . p inﬂuence on tha t of the artar le io n saluta ry T g s,

.whose respect towa rds Ashen Khan was undi mi ni h d ither the difference of their na ti v e s e , e by ON U 2 D J A N VAN H ALE N. 97

On th e following morning the troops conti nued their ma rch to ura h the us al residence of K g , u

Asha n K han whi w - , ch as twenty ﬁv e worsts di stant fro m o ur lace of iv o uac and h a ussi an p b , ad R g arri so n destined to pro tect the city a g ai nst the i ncursi o n s of the enem Th ru ure o f y . e g g ed na t the ro a d had duri n the whole mornin so , g g , rea tl i m eded the ro ress o f our ma teriel tha t g y p p g , no twi thsta nding the assi stance g iv en by two of

o ur b a tta li ons to ta ke the ﬁeld - pieces o v er the stee ro ck s which o structed the roa d i t wa s p b ,

ev enin when we reached r g Ku ag h. The ca v a lry o f Asha n Khan establi shed their iv o ua c a werst from the cit and the rest o f o ur b y ,

t - roo ps before its walls. Our head quarters were ﬁ xed a the house f the han from the aller t o K , g y o f w f the two enca m ments hi ch we had a v iew o p , and o f a rea t art o f the roa d o n o ur rea r a lon g p , g whi ch we could di sting ui sh the hea d of the g rea t co nv comi n from u a which no twithsta nd o y g K b , ing the obstacles abo v e mentio ned was nowap r ura h p o a ching K g . han han fo re oin the comforts which his As K , g g hou afforded iv oua cked wi th his roo s a nd se , b t p ; sent frequent intellig ence to the g eneral respect in he mov ements o f the enem the correctness g t y, of which a s his s ies were una le to enetra te , p b p into the rev olted rov ince could not be relied p , u hos h e . nce oin to t e I av pon Thi s circumsta , j ed 0 3 298 Na uru -ri v ] : or

' a lredd hinted at seemed to esta lish the re y , b p sumption tha t our cump ig a would be no lea d It was a lso to he feared arduo us than protracte .

v e diﬁ c ult th nv o s. iat this by o ur co y To ob y , e i rea td 6 ta tChim h g enera l resolv ed to fo rmh s g ep g , ’ a fortress which its ro ximit to the enem s , by p y y

co untr was well ada ted fo r thi s ur ose. y, p p p i shi n therefore to see the conv o safel de W g , , y y ited ia tha t fo rtress he i ssued orders fo r the pos , different corps to remain in their present enca mp iv r ments till they should rece e further inst uctions. n he mornin o f the th the conv o which O t g 7 y , o wi ng to the indefa tig a ble exertions o f the troops that escorted it reserv ed a n excellent o rder p , ha v in arriv ed at ura h we roceeded with it g K g , p to wards ira h whi ch tho u h within fo rt - v e Ch g , , g y ﬁ we s f e former cit we reached nl o n r te o th y, o y the

l oth a t noon . As we ha d all left our tents at

ura h and as e o nd this lac K g , b y p e neither trees no r shru s of an ki nd a re to be met wi th o ur b y , iv o uacs were rendered do u l un leasant b b y p , the o nly fuel we had consi sting of stra w and a ca lca

‘ reous ea rth mixed tog ether and formed into the sha e of ri cks which re uire m l p b , q d uch tro ub e a nd n to k urnin attentio eep b g . If by cha nce a ny ca rt of the conv o eca me unﬁt for serv ice i t w as y b , i mmedi a tely cut to pieces and carefully preserv ed

The fortress o f hira h althou h v er im er C g , g y p fectl constructed wa s deem r a t im ort. y , ed of g e p

300 Na na A'rrv n o r

rades had ev er e r ted f as o serek no t , pen t a as ar J , wi th it r standing its shortdistance fro mtheir terr o y, ’ and their occa siona l incursions into the enemy s countr all we kn w t im rta nt o si tion y, e of tha po p was fro m the incorrect and tradi tionary a ccounts of some of our ar i i res ect to o ur T ta r all es. W th p staff we our lv n h o ea n ofi cers , se es bei g t e first Eur p who ev er trod that countr we ha d a solutel y, b y founda tion w l hereon to g ro und o ur p ans. By day break all our troops were ready to march when Ashan han resented himself to , K p ' Prince Ma da tofl to communicate to him the intel lig ence he ha d just g ai ned from two Lesg hi pri ’ souers ta ken during the nig htby one of his brother s ’ dv a nced os men e a ts. Accordi n to these s r ort p g p , ’ the whole of the enem s v alr commanded b y ca y, y one of the so ns of Sur hai han wa s tno rea t . g K , a g di st nce fro m our little arm whilst the han a y, K himself was at the head of the remainder of his

forces amo unti to men . He occu ied a , ng p line o f redo ubts sprea ding for a considera ble ex tent before Joserek the fortiﬁca tions of which were to be defended the élite of his infa ntr by y.

The han moreov er had s ted to ev er reli . K , , re or y g ious artiﬁce and the most tyrannical mea sures to

compel hi s people to make a despera te resistance. Althou h there wa s thick mist w ich i g a , h n thi s countr is er commo n we commenced ur marc y v y , o h ’ ﬁv o clock e cav alr at the hea of a t e , th y d o ur

lumn and the artiller in the centre. The co , y roa d from Chirag h to Joserek lies between two ra ng es D ON J U N v AN H E N 1 A AL . 30

ll h o f hi s. T at on the lefti s a branch of the Cau ca sus and thou h s w v an ed i m , , g a e ad c t beca e hi her and hi her it i s n t so diﬂi ult g g , o steep and c o f ascent a s tha t o n the ri h whi h extends from g t, c n ea r hira h to Joserek and on he summit of C g , t which i s an es lana de occa sionall v er na rro w p , y y , terrmi na ting within a v ery sho rt di sta nce of the

- m n i d las t e tone city. On these heig hts we saw at ’ fo e si x o clock . M . a s soon a s the cl ared the A g , ’ ﬁrst rou of the enem s ca v alr in the midst g p y y, o f whi ch wa v ed the sta ndard.

' rince M ada to fl ha vi n adv anced to recon P , g ’ noitre the enemy s position ordered o ur whole co lumn to accelera te its march ; and the brother o f Ashan Kha n to proceed thro ug h the first acces sible pa th .with the entire v ang uard to dislodg e o r the enemy from the heig hts on u left. Thi s mov ement whi ch wa s erformed wi th a n incredi le , p b o rder and rapidity thoug h unsupported by a n le ba onet and hi hl erilous in such a ru t si g y , g y p b p nd roken ro und was well suited to the a ili t a b g , g y a v r o f the T rta r ca al y . Ya kouwov itch and m lf w o w r yse , h e e the only ’ two ca v alr officers nea r rince M a da tofl s erson y P p , ’ too k a pa rt with Ashan Kha n s bro ther in this v The enem who crowned he i ment. t su mo e y, mm t e hills in v er su erior num ers to o ur own of th y p b , recei v ed us on o ur approach with shouts a nd re ted discha r es of musketr which twice o li ed pea g y, b g T v ual scenes us to fall ba ck and ra lly . he indi id which the fury of these Tarta r enemies presented 302 na a a a rrv n or

fli cts were the more fre uent a s little o r no unit q , y of action could be expected in ca v a lry charg es, which ein ma de in such a ru ed la ce co uld , b g g g p , prov e successful o nly by the perso nal co ura g e of the com atants b . Among innumerable o ther in sta nces I sa w one of o ur a rt and Les hi fi ht , p y a g g ev en in their last a onies a nd in their fero cious g , stru les tea r ea ch other with their teeth a nd g g , , ti htl ras ed to ether roll do wn a ro ck reci g y g p g , y p ice the o rses which their ma sters duri n the p ; h , g fi ht continued to hold b the ridle ei n lik g y b , b g e

wi se a shed into the a ss elo w. Ano ther Les hi d by b g , iv in his horse to the ca re of a comra de cra wled g g , do wn the steep sides of the rocks to cut o ff the hea d of hi s enem and resent it to the chief y, p

” wh a rmed by omhe had been . Atlen th a t the third char e we roke thro u g , g , b g h ’ the enemy s lines ; but the co ntinual cha rg es tha t followed as we pursued them to the foo t o f their. i ntrenchments were the more bloo dy as ev ery i nch of round wa s defended with a des era te ra v er g p b y, i i the r unremittng ﬁre ca using us much loss. We ha d thus far executed the o peration intrusted to us and succeeded i n en a in in action , g g g a ll the ’ enem s cav alr uttin them to ﬂi ht when t y y, p g g , he bro ther of Ashan Khan fell pierced thro ug h the r a musket l into the a rms of some of hea tby bal , who nded him a nd who sa w wi h the nobles surrou , t ’ a ng uish thi s brav e man expire like a true Ta rta r

wa rrior ur in them to a ven e his dea th. The , g g g

304 Nu a a rrv n or

exertions ai ned those stee hei hts ta kin ad. g p g , g v an a e of the accident v i o rousl ursued t g , g y p the enem and ma de himself master o f the ﬁrst in y, trenchment which su o rted the left o f their line , pp , where it wa s easy for him to check a nd puni sh the enemy sho uld they a ttempt a ny a tta ck o n that

From these hills the whole line of redo ubts a nd ’ fortiﬁcations a s well a s Sur hai han s M , g K p , w ere di stinctly seen . His tent wa s adorned with sev eral sta nda rds a nd surro unded those o f hi s , by no les also cov ered with silks o f v a rio us co lo urs b , , beside which stood a multitude of horses kept in rea diness a nd further o n sev eral ro u s o f i nf n , g p a ’ tr which a ea red to constitute the enem s ne y , pp y

h v s o ts in to the . serv e. ese a rio u ec o ed con T bj , j nts of their troo s and o c ca si onal fused mov eme p , in of a art of their ca v alr while the offered rac g p y, y a hig hly anima ted scene disclosed to us their

a nd means of defence. In such a o st reso urces p , v r their ca v alr co uld be but o f little ser ho we e , y

v ice. The left wing of the enemy hav ing been di s led the mov m n o v e mentio ned a nd ab by e e ts a b , the locali ty o f the po sition occupied by the centre rendering all offensi v e o r defen siv e o pera tions in t uarter f li l a v il the next ointo f a tta ck tha q o tt e a , p was Jo serek the ramparts and intrenchment of ’ ’ ’ which serv ed a s a poi n t d app m to the enemy s ri ht and wa s in fact the a sis of their whole line. g , b If the i ht i n were once defea ted a fla n r g w g , k D ON JU N VAN H 305 A ALE N. mo v ementmi ht be ea sil execu the v iew g y ted, and to r insured y to us. A ' t a o utten . i rders b A M . Pr nce Madatofi g av e o to M ajor M artinieng o to mai nta in a t all hazards th e adv anta eous osi tion he h en and g p ad tak , pla ced there 1800 horsemen to act as a rear- g uard to his r t oops. He al so i ssued o rders to Ashan K an who with the r m n l was h , e ai der of the cav a ry a d v ancin b the rinci al roa d a fter defeatin g . y p p , g ’ a ll the enem s troo s he had m t in his wa to y p e y, sen d witho ut dela y a few compani es to ena ble so me of our officers to reconno itre the fortifica tions

ose ean i - inued of J rek . M tme Our pla toons cont a d v ancin and ha vin h l which g , g alted on a bil co mma nded the ﬁelds Of o serek the eneral Oh J , g serv ing tha t the enemy wa s v ig o ro usly pursued b the ca v alr of Ashan Kha n and wa s reci i y y , p p tel retrea tin towa rds the ra m arts made his ta y g p , i i io s a ral a t a ck d spos t n for g ene t .

Our forces were di v ided into fo ur columns, the

ﬁ rst o f which com o sed o f the renadiers of . , p g ’ Geo rg ia under the comma nd of Majo rSisianoﬁ with

fo ur six ﬁ eld- ieces wa s to su or o r eft and p , pp t u l ,

a ct a s a reserv e. The second a nd third columns,

su o rted ﬁeld- ieces which were co mmanded pp by p , the ca tain of artiller Fri il consisted the by p y, g , , ne o f the ﬁrst attalion of Ko in un e the o b ur , d r

' ders o f ieutenant- lonel Kot e and the or L co z bue, f t o u o ther o half of the second ba tali on Of Abast , ' mma nded i utenant- colonel Sa uino fi co by ts lie , g , were to adv ance thro ug h the principal road to the NARRATIVE OF cit and formour centre The fourth column y, ; composed o f the other half of the second ba ttalion of A tou and su orted b two fi eld- ieces b as , pp y p , was to open the attack on the redoubts which s wi h i uni ted the leftof the fortification th the e g hts.

o s Kha n receiv ed or rs f thi column . Ashm de to withdraw his advanced osts and station himself p ,

d t a t two the firin was ver ri sk and well y ; g y b , fo susta ined throug hout the line. On the urth co l mn a roa chin the redou ts which were u pp g b , within a sho rt di stance of the steep mounta in on the left the enem o ened a cross- fire o n our , y p flank shelte t of tee , red by a natural pa rape s p rocks which rolon ed themselv es and oined , p g , j the elev a r Behi nd ted pa t of the fortifi cations. . these the enemy had studi ously concealed a od of inf ntr who hoisted thei r standa rds b y a y, w la ced only hen we ca me within their reach. P etween two fires and on round the unfa v our b , a g

Of o ur two field- i ces a ainst whose tra in p e , g the enem chiefi directed their destructi v e fire y y , ur onl reso urce was an immedi ate a ssa ult for o y , I is i But On the o which ma de every d posi ton . g

neral- ia - chi ef perceiv ing the immi nent dang er i n ' h we stood he sent to me rince Bebo utoﬁ whic , P with orders to delay the assa ult until the ba ttery f t centre which was ust e innin to la o n o he , j b g g p y

NARRATIVE OF

the hei hts fell on a rea t rt of hi s forces wh g , g pa , o, ev ery thing tha t mig ht impede the most hasty T e o her lumns su iv l entered flig ht. h t co ccess e y ' oserek difler nt directions ea sil o v w J by e , y erthro in an enem who terrified a t th su g y , e ccess Of our troo s were fl in with the utmo s i i p , y g tprec p

Ashan han a tthe head of his ca v alr ado t K , y , p in the most rudent line Of oli c li htl g p p y, g y punished those of the enemy who a ttempted to k hei r saf t throu h the l ins whi s see t e y g p a , l t Major nien o udici usl i ssuin f m hi Marti g , j o y g ro s posi tion a t the moment of o ur a ssa ult ha r ed the lef of , c g t ca v alr i the enemy . Their y mmedia tely to o k to i ht and o ined their fu iti v e ha n tr ﬂg , j g K , a m lin do wn all who im eded their ro ress a nd p g p p g , rendering more di sa stro us the defea t o f their

Fo r the place o f six wersts the g ro un d was

' strewed wi th the corpses of doubtless the mo st v i r us and v alia nt men o f the Khans a n d w g o o , i th horses a rms tand rds and s ils o f ev er de , , s a , po y cri tion which dded to 1000 ri so ners to s p , , a p , the m l te osses ion o f o serek so im orta nt co p e p s J , p by its osition nd fo rtiﬁca tions and to the entire di s. p a , ’ sion Of Sur hai Kha n s arm rendered o ur per g y,

The lo ss we ex eri enced wa s sufi cientl seri o us p y , especia lly as among the dang erously wo unded and D ON J UAN VAN HALE N . 309 the dea d were some Oflicers of hi h mer and , g it, some o f o ur rav est soldiers b . ' o w a rds the clo se of the da rin e a da T y , P c M tofi g a v e o rders for the columns tha t were in pursuit of the enem to return a nd ca used a ll ur r s y , o t oop to a ssemble in the pla ins clo se to the walls Of Joserek where o ur iv o ua c wa s esta lish T , b b ed . he tw a tta lions o f Absa ron who ha d so uch o b , m dis tin ui shed themselv es o n tha t da a nd whose g y , stan dards wa v ed o n the ra m arts were receiv p , ed by the g enera l in the mo st fla ttering manner ; the hig h b ut merited encomi ums he bestowed on the soldi ers ein the mo re ra tif in to us a s the b g g y g , y were expressed in the presence Of the a ssembled troo s and in the si ht of the la ce where our p , g p eff wi c orts ha d been cro wned th suc ess. The care Of the wo unded eng a g ed o ur a tten tion he whole Of tha t ni ht durin which the t g , g wretched sufferers experienced much inconve ni ence from the unpro v ided sta te in which we fo und the ho uses o f o serek stri ed the J , pp by enem ev en of the doors which were used b y , y th f d f n e A wi l em a s mea ns o e e c . se po icy ma de

us res ect the mos ue which wa s the onl la ce p q , y p tha t ha d no t been despoiled by the enemy in tha t desola te cit fro m who se numero us ca v erns a nd y , subterra neous pa ssa g es i ssued ev ery mo ment eo le o f a ll a es who ha d so u ht refu e in tho se p p g , g g v a ults which wi less enerous enem wo uld , th a g y rriﬁed i n hav e beco me their sepulchres. The te ha itants met from o ur a troles to who m the b p ,

ildes n een en oined . the efs m t co ductha d b j by chi , ' 310 NA a a A rrv r-z o r

' a reception v ery diﬁ erent fro m tha t which mig ht hav e been expected from the excited feeling s of the soldier o r the m i f r e re o fo . y, p ce The wo unded enemi es who had surv i v ed the

unav oida le fur Of such close enco unters w ere b y , intrusted either to the ca re o f their wo men o r of

thei r o wn a sto rs under the immedi t ins e p , a e p c ion Of one o f our sur eons The ri soners w t g . p ere libera ted a t midnight a t the intercessio n of A sha n han to shew them tha t o ur a rms were n o K , t i ted a ain t the o ressed inha itants b ut d rec g s pp b , h ni l nce only ag ai nst t eir tyran ca pri . Some deta chments of ca v al ry were po sted in the v a rious a v enues to oserek a nd ev er other re J , y p cautiona r mea sure for o ur safet ein a do ted y y b g p , the g eneral issued o rders for a rev iew on the fo l l w o ing da y . Suc h were the opera tions of the memora ble

12th O June a a inst an enem consi sti n of er. f , g y g p ha ps the most wa rlike Of the tribes o f the Ca uca nd i noran us b t who were e ua ll ra sh a t. I s , u q y g shall here a dd a few Observ a tions respecting their arms a nd mea ns o f defence, which will in so me mea sure account for the irreg ularities tha tto ok place during the ba ttle. s his like the rea test art Of t e The Le g , g p h t rs a ltho u h mo unta ineers a re the wo rs Tar a , g , t

- s a ssio n te fond foo t soldiers o f the Ea t. P a ly o f e which he onsider in the li ht o f a the hors , t y c g m ni on with whom the must share the lo r co pa , y g y of th r x loit or the shame Of their disa sters ei e p s, , they pa y no reg ard to the practica l lessons they

319 m a na rrv n or

' rs ts o ult' a ainst these m n which oﬂe i elf n a n assa g e , who a re a s v i o ro us a s the a re unda unted and g y , who if the were to a ct wi th unifo rmit wo uld , y y, render the capture o f a ny a ttrenchment equally sang uinary a nd difﬁcult ev en for the bra v est

hei r ma sses a lwa s irre la r dread when T , y g u , the are unsheltered the effects o f the artiller y y, but when pro tected by na tura l o r a rtifi cia l pa ra ets the cannon tho u h well serv ed do es n o t im p , g he s them with much fea r. On t co ntrar pre s y, mmov a l fixed at their o sts the reso lutel i b y p , y y wa itfor the assa ult a nd fi ht to the la st their , g , clamoro us fanfa rona des co nfo undi ng themselv es wi th the more ha rmo nious so unds of the military

ba nds of their a dv ersaries. A musket a i stol a nd a onia rd of ex uisite , p , p q w kmanshi and i nlaid with silv er or o ld a or p g , s a dorned with lace a nd em roider and a dre s b y , standa rd bea ring an inscriptio n dra wn fro m the o o hei r ro het and ra s ed with a ll e c de f t p p , g p th arro ance and ha u htiness ec uliar to the Asia i s g g p t c , form the distincti v e m ks f m s ar o o t o f their chiefs.

On the other hand the ussian soldiers un , R , excited by a ny spiri tuo us liquors with whi ch the troops of o ther na tions are often trea ted p to en a i n in a ttle ma ke the si n o f the cro ss ’ g g g b , g , and immov a l ﬁxin their e es on their l b y g y eader,

“ Al u proot of the reli g ious feeling of the Russian soldiery ! still preserve a cross which one of these brave fellows devoutly de livered to me a little before he expired in one of the ditches of the ﬁrst intrenchmentwe attac ed durin th k g e morning . D ON U N V ‘ J A AN HALE N . 313 f llo w him i o d l c o n the m d profoun si en e, unani in the r t i s t mous i impe uos ty , econ tan and i mpor

ur ble n er - l ie w i c i i t ba in da g , qua i t s h h n mlitary nations are the exclusiv e pa trimony of perfect dis r l c ipline. F ug a and patient under priv ations as the a re su missiv e the s o y b , y pend the wh le day in battle and t i t ra ti rea , a n g h a on of b d o r biscuit a dra u ht of w ter ro t e e r a nd g a f m h n a est brook, M oe to a llay their hung er and thirst; whilstthe bare g round for a bed a nd their knspw k for a l v ei ti e pillow, re ie e th r fa g u . The Tartar whomI had seen in the mu nitig r ted wi th t s f e e o f deco a he cros o th l g ion honour, and whom I had desired to seek th e after the

b tle re e el o me t i ht w a t , p sentd hims f t a n g , hilst ‘ the g roans of the wounded a nd the qm v i ce of the sentri es alone interrupted the silence of our

. i e t bi v o ua c I asked him f h spoke French, o which he aﬁ rmativ ely a nswered me in that lan ” e W v u tha dec ra tio n ? g uag . ho g a e yo t o ” The m eror a t a ra m he e li d E p , W g , r p e ; a nd to d ay I sho uld ha v e won ano ther had be " seen us. He then drew from his bosom a parchment

c - oo k ha t un a t his neck b a silk o r po ketb t h g y c d,

and in whi ch he had his diploma . This he put t in t af r i nto my hands tha t I mig h exam e i , and te v w c ho wards continued his narrati e, hi h, t ug h usi n was rea tl s oiled his outra eo us a m g , g y p by g f drid o f f rona d . H oke o f a in o a fa n a es e sp Sp , M , the Pla z a de la Cana da (where criminals are ex

v on. 11. r ‘ 314 NARR AT I VE or

- ecuted of his ex loits a nd la stl o f hi s a morous ) , p , y a dv entures es eciall wi th a wo man a n o ran e , p y , g v ender f the na me o f o la sa who m he d escri ed , o G , b i n a ma nner tha t seemed to pla ce the truth o f his narra tiv e beyond a do ubt. Thi s ma n belo ng ed to the corps o f Ma melukes who fo llo wed N a poleon from t a nd who were afterwa rd s i nco r o Eg yp , p r d wit he im erial u d He ha d een a te h t p g ar . b resent with his s ua dron in a drid a n d ta ken p q M , a n ac ti v e pa rt i n the sa ng ui nary proceedin g s o f the then u e memo rable 2nd of M ay 1808. I q stioned

‘ him in a ni sh a nd receiv ed v er erti n ent u Sp , y p n i n tha t la n ua e deli v ered with a v i v t swers g g , a ci y and j oc ula ri ty which made me o v erloo k hi s ridi s in In ﬁne t i s sin ula r er lo us oa t . h so n a e c u b g , g p g ’ was ma de a pri soner i n Russia duri ng Na po leon s fro m o scow and restored to hi n retrea t M , s a tive

r ara a h where whenev er tha t ro v n e count y, K b , p i c m ed its contin ent he ca me fo rwa rd ei asse bl g , ther for himself or a s a substitute fo r any who di sli ked

the serv i ce.

I desi red him to keep nea r me whenev er his ti es ermi tted a re uest be ca refull du p , q y a t

‘ tended to ; a nd I deri v ed much a dv an ta g e fro m his knowledg e o f the la ng uag e a nd custo ms o f the countr and fmm hi s ex la na tio ns of the mo st y , p rema rkable a nd interesting ev ents that fo llo wed the roceedi n s of thi s da p g ~ y

316 n a na a n v n o r

cei ved frequent intellig ence of the occurrences ri r ro m which were ta king place i n the inte o . F a ll a unts Sur hai ha n who ha d hitherto cco , g K , endea v o ured to impress o n his people the belief t he wa s inv inci le ca usin hi s a strolo ers tha b , by g g to spread a bout predictions fa vo ura ble to hi s ds was fa st lo sin ro und i n the mind s o f all en , g g hi s su ects who were no w re a rin to de riv e bj , p p g p

him o f his a uthori ty . The fug itiv e Khan rode with all possible speed

from the field o f ba ttle to Ka z ko um k the y y , ca ital of his hans sixt wersts di sta n t from p K , y o s rek but unfo rtuna tel for hi m the n ews of J e ; y , his defea t ha v in receded him he fo und he g p , t g a tes of the ci ty shut ag ai nst him and the adhe ren who wa s follo we Sur ts hy m he d . g hai Khan who ha d no t suffici ent coura e to fo llow , g the fa ta l exa mple set hi m by some of hi s rela ti ons of erishin his o wn hand ra th r n , p g by e tha surv iv e such an a ffront ro osed a tho usa nd , p p humilia tin co ndi tion s whi ch were a ll di sda in full g , y re ected a t len th he recei v ed a s a fa v o ur hi s j ; g , , ' and a n esco rt tha t should aflord him pm cti n a s far a s the ron i rs hus ereft o tc c f te . T b f his o wer the defea ted han no w directed his fli ht p , K g to wards the mo untains follo wed his c , by ontai bines and some scores of children who co mpmed the flock o f his harem lea v in in the m , g emo ry of hi s countrymen o nly the most a tro cio us mutila ti ons executed on the persons of hi s most faithful a dherent as we had fre uen o r u i of s, ( q t ppo t nites D ON U N VAN H L E N 1 J A A . 3 7

ta k en a nd a co untr sma rtin under the inﬂic ,) y g ti o ns of his ra aci us a nd r s p o ba ba rou tyranny . T he inha itants o f thi s ro v ince unlike the b p , K a ba rdines and T cher'lresses a re no a freeboo tin , t g

r ac e. he lo v e wa r like a ll the inha ita nts of T y , b the Ca uca sus ; but they a lso kno w ho w to v alue the eneﬁts o f ea ce es eci all when a ruden b p , p y p t rince turnin his a ttentio n to commerce r nd p , g , e ers ma nifest to them its adv anta es a llo win the g , by g merchants who from a hestan a nd tra kh , D g As a n tra de with the tribes of the interior as sa fe a ssa e , p g thro u h his territor witho ut la in to o rea t a g y , y g g dut o n their mer ha n is The a mbition and y c d e. intri ues o f Sur hai han therefore tho u h g g K , , g he had com lled them to commence hostilities t y m , were far fro m being a pprov ed by the majo ri ty of he eo le en ce o n the da after the ba ttle of t p p . H , y o serek the ublic v oice hitherto re ressed J , p , p by s v i olent mea sures lo udl rono unced itself in hi , y p

r o his ov erthro w . Besides a s a n further fa vo u f , y resistance wo uld proba bly ha v e led to the entire ruin of their cara v a nserai s, homes a nd fa milies, weig hi ng ho w far they were entitled to the g ene

o v ernment the directio n o f which in conformi t g , ( y

d old men trusted to some of their most respecte , who immedia tely sent three of their members to Ashan ha n im lo rin his medi a tion to con K , p g 318 n a nna 'rl v n o r

' ude a ea ce a nd oﬂe in their alle ia nc e to the cl p , r g g

Russia n g o v ernment. While these impo rta nt ev ents were pa ssi ng in ' he ca i ta l rince M a da tofl rev iewed o ur troo s t p , P p , a nd co ntinued to ta ke those preca uti ona ry mea sures whi ch o ur uncerta in situa ti on still required. Our infa ntry ha d experienced a lo ss of nin e o fficers a nd three hundred ri v a tes etween killed and p , b dang erously wo unded ; a nd the lo ss of the ca v alry t do l w re a mo unted o ub e tha t number. Orders e i ssued fo r the immedia te remo va l of the w o unded (who ha d but v ery i ndifferent qua rters and sca rcel a n a ccommoda tion a t oserek to t y y J ) , he milita ry ho spital o f Kura g h ; whilst the corpses tha t were strewed a o ut the fi eld the trench s b , e , a nd the streets o f oserek were uried eac J , b , h rdin to th ites o f h r li i n The bo d a cco g e r is e g o . y of the bro ther of Ashan Kha n wa s remo v ed with some pomp to the ca pita l o f the prov ince where d he ha d chiefly resi ed .

At three in the a fternoon, the emissa ries sent fro m the ca pita l by their collea g ues to Ashan han a rriv ed a t o ur enca m ment and were K p , ’ medi a tely co nducted by tha tprince to the g eneral s tent where o n the relimina ries o f their tre , , p a ty ein ettled the s o o usl o ff ed b g s , y p nta ne y er them selv es as hostag es to secure the perfo rma nce of Th the contra ct. e g eneral a cceded to it; a nd Asha n ha n ivi n a no ther roof o f the wi sdom K , g g p and g ood policy be ha d shewn thro ug ho ut this e edition la ced himself a t the hea d of the xp , p

320 NA na Arxv n o r a dv antag eo us situa tio n fo r the interi o r c oma merce and wea lth es ec iall in ﬂo cks a n d cat , , p y

o es h p .

On the evening o f the 13th the g meral - i n- chief g a ve o rders for the troops to ho ld themselv es in readiness to proceed a t . da ybrea k to wa rds the ca ital with the exce tio n o f a a rtof the c a v alr p , p p y, who were to remai n at Joserek to pro tect that

int. The thick fog so prev alent i n these mo un ta inous districts rev ented o ur ma n t a s l , p rchi g ou ear y as i ve w r ts e o d Josere we had i ntended . F e s b y n k we passed thro ug h a small but nea tly built v illa ge; who se inhabita nts were seen sta nding o n the flat roofs o f their houses lookin tran uill o n and , g q y , apparently much struck wi th the no velty o f our artillery the ca rria g es o f whi ch were really the fi rst v ehicles tha t ha d been seen in tha t co untry he o a we for many ag es ba ck . T bst cles met in trans rtin o ur trai n o f a rtiller a s w ne po g y, e pe n r w m tratad further into the i terio , ere so n u ero us, bo th on acco unt of the a brupt na ture of the countr na rrow a nd roken a ths and o f y, b p , the wide trenches which Surg hai Khan ha d ca used to be made in order to prev ent o ur prog ress into the countr tha t we were obli ed to unharness and y , g di smoun the ieces a nd the a mmunition- ca ses a nd t p , in rustt m to the ca re of 100 infantr who with t he y, the g reatest labour and exertion carried them as far as a v alley three wersts beyond the a bo ve 321 D ON J UAN VA N H ALE N . menti o ned v illa e where the eneral wei hi n g , g , g g th e i n co nv eniences he mi h n a v e ord ers t y g t occasi o , g fo r the third ba ttali o n o f Absaro n to remai n be hi n d w i th eig htof the field- pieces o ut of the twelve tha t cram ed o ur a rk o f il ntil further m p art lery, u

wi th o nl four ieces of a rtiller and i v o ua cked y p y, b ; ﬁ fteen wersts from oserek on the a th lea din to J , p g

ca me to a n a n i nt sto ne i f in le arch c e br dg e o a s g , extre mel loft which had no alustrade a nd was y y , b , so v arv narro w tha t it just ﬁtted the wheels of o ur

ﬁ eld - i i na l roof p eces. This wa s fo r us an addi to p

ha d p enetrated into thi s co untry with ca rria g es of a n kind t a t rid e bei n the onl mea ns of y , h b g g y

ta In i n a s we a d nced we ecame ri o t. pro po rto v a b m r conv i c ho w duo us rotracted a nd o e n ed ar , p , ai n ful the ossessio n of this a ru t co untr p , p b p y wo uld ha v e een for us had the chief of the ln b , surrecti on enjo yed the lov e of his peo ple a nd mu le

the lea st resi sta nce.

hen we arri v ed wi thin ten wersts of the ca i tal W p , we were met by a deputa tion sent fro m the ci ty to w me the enera Th f elco g l. e a spect o the country in the neig hbourhood of Ka zykoumyk i s ba rren and uninteresti n thinl o ulated and with g , y p p , scarcel an trees the c ulti va tion of which i s en y y , tirely neg lected by the nati v es thro ug h some pre r 3 322 NA nnA 'rrv a or j udice or caprice whi ch I ha v e no t b een a ble to a scerta i n ; so tha ttho ug h we were in the plea sa ntest sea son of the ea r and within a sho rt di sta nce Of y , the hestan the territor o f which i s o n e ro Dag , y p lo n ed a rden we ha d nei ther frui ts no r flo wers g g , , nor sing i ng birds; nor cool a nd plea sa nt shades ' tha t mig ht aflo rd so me reli ef to the wea ry tra v eller who i s here ex o sed to the ra s of a , p y scorc in n mero us herds of ca ttle a nd a h su . u g N , rea t a n n rle a nd r e consti tut e g bu da ce of ba y y , e th principal wea lth o f tho se fields a nd v alleys . On o ur dra win near the cit a tes a no ther g y g , deputa tion ca me o ut to receiv e us wi th sta ndards and oles decora ed wi th ra nches a nd dev ices p t b , and resented to the enera l the ke s o f the ci t p g y y, orne On a rich sa lv er co nta ini n so me oiled rice b , g b in the form o f a ila w of which a ccordi n to the p , , g esta lished custo ms o f these na tio ns he wa s to b , taste a nd a t the sa me time a cce t a ea utiful , p b horse su er l ca a ri so ned a un a i stol a p b y p , g , p , sa re a oni ard a nd a rich suit o f a rmo ur which b , p , , ' they oflered a s to kens o f pea ce and perpetual lliance a .

' rince M a da toﬂ to whom these ho no P , ura ble g ifts were the more ﬂa tteri ng a s he recei v ed them a t the ha nds o f tho se who m he mig ht co nsider as his countr men deli v ered a n hara n ue i n h ir y , g t e o wn la ng ua g e with all the po mp Of expressio n and v ehemence of action ec ulia r to the Asia ti s in p c , whi ch he ma de kno wn to them the concili a tory v i ews of Al exander, in the na me of whom his

324 i n s u ri n g or

Our troo f who ps were the ﬁrst foreig n orces , from the remo test r had enetrated into the pe iod, p

ev en a t the time when they were most successful in th d d e extension of their dominion, ha d no t are to in v ve a de this ﬁerce and warlike na tion, who se lo of independence fo rms thei r strong est characteris

tic. Th s there e presence o f the Russian troop ,

fore, was a motiv e Of unea siness to the elders, who,

fro m the ﬁrst moment of their interv iew with

Ashan ha n m a di d a v owal of it. K , ma de to hi ca n

alloyed by the conciliatory words whi ch Prince M ' ada toﬂ bad addressed to tha n at the city g ates, a nd which passed from mouth to mo uth till they spread wi th the rapidi ty of a teleg raphic despatch to the remotest co rner of the pro vince ; so that

twent - fo ur ho urs a fter the were kno wn ev en to y , y the she her s of the mo nd of p d untains, a cro wds people were hourly a rri v ing at the capita l to wit ness the installa tion of their new Khan and a n , p i

cipa te in the g eneral rejoic ing s. D uring the whole Of the l 6 th the rain fell in torrents and ren e u in w , d re d o r bivouac ( hich the onl tent to seen w t the ener y be as hat of g al) , ex

the 1 th which was the da a ointed for the 7 , y pp stalla tion of h n Kha n the wea ther cleared u As a , p, and our troops were able to a ppear in all the splen dour whi ch the immrtance of that solemn act

’ At elev en o clock the doors of the g rea t mosque

NA R RAT IVE 01"

' ' to a ttend in erson a t the a ct of ll p insta a ti on, re mai ned with us a t the entra nce hi of s tent, where

he rds r v a fterwa ecei ed Ashan Kha n, a nd the

no les who m he wa s surro unded who e l b by , ag er y T pressed round them. he Tarta r prince deli v ered a short speech rela ti v e to the hig h trust with which he ha d ust een honoured with the j b , ea rnestness ec ulia r to him a nd o inted o ut the p , p g rea t reduction whi ch wa s to take pla ce i n the ta xa ti on of the ro v ince a nd which co m ared p , , p wi th the eno rmo us sums extorted by their la te Kha n seemed to i nsure him a la stin con uest , g q

w ~ o v er the minds o f his ne subj ects. General M a ‘ da toii ho wev er ma de so me o serv a tio ns res ect , , b p ing the unsettled sta te o f a co untry in whi ch the fire ki ndled by the la te Khan co uld sca rcely be xtin ui shed a nd fo r the com lete a cifi ca tion e g , p p o f which he was responsible to General Yermo lo w ; concluding by decla ri ng tha t the depa rture oi the Russia n tro o ps fro m i ts territo ry wo uld ta ke pla ce as soo n a s the people should g iv e those g uarantees by which the emperor mig ht r ri feel sa ti sfi ed o f thei si nce ty a nd tra nquilli ty . Asha n Kha n then pla cing o ne hand on the ussian order he wore o n the rea st a nd with the R b , ' other ra s in tha t of rince M ad a to fl sa id the g p g P , h h o ffered i wi th much v ehemence, t a t e h s o wn head to General Yermolo w a s a g ua ra ntee for the stipula ted condi tions ; tha t he wa s convinced the people of Kazyko umyk wo uld shew ho w hig hly the v alued the confidence which the demanded y y , V D ON J UAN AN H AL E N . 327 a s the evacua tion of the pro vince by the Russia n troops co uld not fa il to o bli terate the remembrance o f the ho stiliti es in which they had been co mpelled to eng ag e by a pri nce who m they themselv es ha d spo nta neously depo sed ; a nd tha t they wo uld co n sider a want o f co nfidence i n the empero r in thei r g o o d faith a s a puni shment fa r surpa ssing tha t which the ha d recei v ed o n the fi ld f o r k y e o J se e . The enera l who like the rest o f the o fli cers g , , tha t were resent a t thi s interv i ew co uld not hel p , p remarking the perha ps studied ea rnestness o f Asha n Kha n o n a mea sure i nv olv ing the mo st serio us conse uences ro mi sed to ta ke the ma tter q , p into immedi a te considera tio n a nd ut an end to , p the conference by a ssuri ng them tha t wha t he ha d mo st a t hea rt wa s their ha iness a nd ro s erit pp p p y, lea v i ng i n fa ct the fi na l settlement o f thi s impor ta nt poi nt to a priv a te conference with A sha n h n h s too k la ce in the ev enin o f the K a . T i p g sa me da with the utmo st secrec when the y y, Kha n expla ined ev ery thi ng i n such a sa tisfa ctory manner tha t it left no do u t in o ur minds of the , b s r t wh ch a ctua ted him thro u ho u urin ince i y i g t. D g thi s interv i ew he also informed the g eneral tha the had ta ken effectiv e steps to sec ure the flig ht of se eral ussia n soldiers who ha d een ma de ri v R , b p souers o n fo rmer occa sio ns a nd who were ke t co n , p cealed by so me o f the propri etors of the co untry he re te v illa es o f h mo in t mo g t e unta ins. ffi One o f o ur o cers, who on thi s occa sion manifested hi s surpri se to Ashan Kha n a t seeing him so a nxio us to be left at the entire mercy of 3” tu n a -ri v : or

a people who only a few days back had risen i n mass to o ose o ur entra nce i n o th ir i t r pp t e terr o y, and ag ainst who m he and his subjects ha d been constantl fi htin recei v ed y g g , from him this re ma rka ble answer : When a pri nce wishes to reserv e his hea d he must offer his p , hate ho w ; ” and added be with a es u , , g t re confirmati v e o f this o inion should he find himsd f mi k p , sta en , he ha s ” alwa s this mso urce lefthi m ras in his o ni a rd y , g p g p , ” to bury hi s steel in the hea rt o f the tra itor. ' On the follo wi ng mo rning Prince M a datofi te ’ turned As n ha n s v isit a nd dela red efo r ha K , b e the and whose reserv ed manners betra yed a certain de ree of sus ici on a t he wo u d i ssue orde s t g p , th l r o his troo ps fo r ev ac ua ting the pro v ince a s soon a s he should receiv e the oa ths of alleg iance fro m the inha bita nts o f the distric ts tha t had not yet ta i dered them and tha t ein erfectl satisfi ed wi th , b g p y the lo a l intentio ns of thei r new ha n he wo ul y K , d exa ct fro m them no further g ua rantee. This de clara ti on was receiv ed with ev ery ma rk of sa ti sfa c tion the r chiefs whose a rehensions by Ta rta , pp seemed no w entirely to subside. On the mo rnin o f the 18th the fourteen o r g , fifteen pieces o f ordna nce we ha d found i n the to wers of the palace were deli v ered to the ca n mandant of our a rtillery ; and on the afternoon o f da the unha ca tiv es mentioned b the same y , ppy p y Asha n Khan beg a n to ma ke their a ppeara nce in a condition tha t suffici ently indica ted their ha sty

ﬂi ht. hese oo r fellows w o had scarcel an g T p , h y y

330 NAR R AT IVE o r

' rince Mada to ﬁ seein tha t the o b ect of his P , g j missi on wa s a cco m li shed in full a v e hi s ﬁ n al p , g o rders fo r the ma rch o f the tro o s a nd we left p , o ur ca m o n the ev enin o f the 1 th acco m an i ed p g 9 , p

' Asha n ha n a nd his retinue who roceeded by K , p with us fo ur wersts beyond the city where w e esta lished o ur i v o u fo t e ni h In the b b ac r h g t. co urse o f the ev enin the eneral recei v ed in his g , g tent the deputies of the to wns and v illag es tha t were wi thin a sho rtdi sta nce o f o ur line o f ma rch, a nd who had no t yet ta ken thei r oa th of alleg ia nce to the Emperor of Russia . On the follo win da we rea ched oserek where g y J ,

' we fo und the a rtillery a nd the rest of the tr00ps m l d v a v i i s k a sse b e to e cua te the pro nce. Th too

lace on the 2l st t ten A M . when ri nce a da p a . P M ' to ﬁ dismi ssed the v a rio us Ta rta r co nting ents who

‘ ha d acco m a nied us in this ex edition a nd who p p ,

rn shortjo u eys. Thus ended in ﬁfteen days a campa ig n which we ha d ev ery rea so n to fea r wo uld ha v e co st the a rm o f Geor ia their bra v est attalions and man y g b , y mo nths o f to il an d stru les a ai nst a eo le g g , g p p who se reputa tion fo r co ura g e a nd determina tion renders them a s formida ble a s the mo st wa rlike f a us a nd who se territo r wa s so tribe o the C ucas , y

well a da ted its difficult defiles fa stnesses p , by , , ifica tions to the artisa n wa rfa re so de a nd fort , p to a re ula r a rm a nd so enerall structiv e g y , g y

adopted by mounta in tribes. CHAPTER XXI .

‘ M adatofi i s revisited on his route by the sons of Ashan—Anecdote — Fo - rests nea r Kmag h —Cherry trem- At Kuba the Baron de Wrede deli v ers to the author a packet from his fa ther and fi -i ends — announ cin g the poli ti ca l chang e in Spa in M ag n ificent prospect — from the moun ta i n of Tchast Brilli ant carpets—Importa nt te ’ ma ins of anti qui ty—The a uthor s loss of hi s horse —A soothsayer — - Lovely distri ct of Noug ha Villa g e of Vendame —Vi sit to a — wealthy T artar The author reaches Noug ha —Hi s a rri val at ’ Tefii s—General Yermolow s reception of the ofi cers and troops — upon their return D on J ua n Van Halen in tima tes to Yermolow — ’ a desire to return to Spain General Beta ncourt s journey to the — —Arche f an Armeni an Ca ucasus an d the Crimea City of Kislar i , — ’ propri etor of v ineyan ds—Cultiv ation of cotton Betancourts ad vi ce— The a uthor tra v els wi th him—Their trav elling culi nary — appa ratus—The steppes Tcherlanare - D escription of the Kal — - zd The Tera h mmks M o ok- k Subterraneous road in t e Cauca sus to avoid the av alanches—Return to Tefiis D elig htful — scenery of Georg ia R ewards bestowed on the army of the Can casus—Enmity of Alexan der ag ainst the Spani sh constitution He dismisses the a uthor from hi s serv i ce and bani shes him — ’ Reflecti ons D eli cacy and g enerosi ty of Yermolow—The a uthor s

ON the mo rni n o f the 22nd while w were g , e brea kfasti ng in the g allery of a ho use a t Kurag h 339 Na a u rxv n or where we made a short stay with the object of isi o ur wo unded the two sons of Ashan V ting , ha n of who m ha v e alread s o ken a nd who K , I y p , were o n their way to Ka zyko umyk to j o in their father resented themselv es with th ir retinue to , p e ri nce M a da t if who i nv ited them to sit down P o , , a nd to pa rta ke of o ur repa st After a short dia lo ue etween the enera l a nd the little ri nces g b g p , which wa s kept up wi th g rea t anima ti on o n their ' ar h n s h v in he rd fro m M a da toﬁ p t, t e yo u g e t a g a th t th r n o f Sur h i ha n ha d no w ex ired a e eig g a K p , sa id smilin i ronicall and with a shru of the , g y, g shu dder oor a n ! it i s v er unforttma te for s, P m y him— w ” but it ill be all the better for me . The enera l who o serv ed a mo menta r fro wn g , b y ass across the coun e o f the eldest checked p tenanc , , thou h mildl tha t ex ressio n of recocio us am g y, p p itiou in the o un est which if not corrected in b y g , time mig ht pro duce much mischief betwixt the two bro thers when the sho uld arriv e a t a n a e , y g i n which the passions g et the mastery of rea son a nd di scretion ; tho ug h there wa s in the manners a nd words of the eldest tha t which seemed to pre dicthe wo uld kno w ho w to imita te the forbea ran ce an ruden e f i h d p c o h s fa t er. We left Kura g h in the afternoo n o f the 23rd t e d we cam alo n the ma niﬁcent by h sa me roa e, g g fo rests leasa nt v a lle s o r ra ther ardens which , p y , g , a t ev er ste meet the e e fo rmi n a strikin y p y , g g contra st with the ba rren a nd rocky soil o f the pen v ince o f Kazyko umyk ; and a t nig ht rea ched

334 m us s -ri v e o r

adopted in o ur ﬁrst pa ssa g e thro ug h the Tarta r v Ys k mema undha r ro inces. a Bec o f u a p , K b , wa s ag ain o ur g uide till we rea ched the fro nti ers

of the pro v i nce. On the 26 th we left our nig ht qua rters with the ri sin sun the wea ther thro u ho ut the da b ein g , g y g e tremel mild and the sk e ua ll ri ht and n y , y q y b g serene At a short di stance e o nd the v ill a e is . b y g stee mounta in in the a scent of which we s en a p , p t

ﬁ v e lo n ho urs. It i s called chast a nd i s o ne g T , o f the mo st elev a ted a ccessible points of the cha in

o f the Ca uca sus. A shepherd who m we metnear the summit of thi s mo untai n killed o ne o f his

’ shee a nd i n a few mi nutes re a red fo r us a p , p p rea kfa st which in our a nxiet to a dmire h b , , y t e ma g niﬁcent a nd subli me scenery which on ev ery side urst u on our si ht we a cel s sc r ta ted . b p g , y The pencil o f Sal v a tor Ro sa a nd tha t o f Cla ude united wo uld I a m sure ha v e een i na de u , , b q a te to present i n all their bea uty the g ra ndeur o n o ne side and the lov eliness o n the o ther o f the sur ro unding scenery . T he use of ca rpets i s so g eneral i n these pro v inces tha t ev en the reduced but of the she herd , p , who had di5pla yed so much ho spitali ty to wa rds us wa s a dorned with some v er ea utiful s eci , y b p

niens of thi s kind o f furniture.

n descendin the cha st the countr re O g T , y p sented a t ev ery step pro spects so di v ersiﬁ ed a nd

' f l o f ea ut tha t I do u t whether the most u l b y , b picturesque parts o f Italv or Spai n could com D ON J U ‘VA 35 AN N H AL E N . 3

ete with these ch r in ric s The a a r p a m g dist t . ppe a n ce o f the woods v alle s a nd hillock s do wn , y , , w hi ch rushed a mul itude o f cr stal strea ms on t y , the borders of which the ha ppy a n d pea cea ble in h a ita nts were seen tendin their ﬂo cks and who se b g , h a ita tio ns sca ttered ev er where remi nded me b , y , , b their constructio ns nea tness a nd interi r y , , o c leanli ness a nd whiteness, o f tho se o f o ur cheerful

V a lencians shifted a t ev er mo ment a nd ore , y , b a g rea t resemblance to the so uthern pa rts of

Spain . The j o urney o f this da y wa s the long est we had hitherto perfo rmed the g enera l ha v i ng resolv ed to rea ch i n the co urse o f the da y the frontiers o f N o u ha whi ch were 100 wersts di s a n tfro m the g , t v illa e where we ha d s ent the ni ht a nd a t g p g ,

i » whi ch we a rri v ed la te n the ev ening . Bei ng un rov ided with tents we were o li ed to a cce t p , b g p the inv ita tio n of so me shepherds to pa ss the nig ht i n thei r ki v itki which ho wev er a ffo rded sca rcel , , , y a n a cco mmoda tion fo r o ur a rt a nd no shelter y p y, o o ur f ti ued r hi s r sta n n t a ho ses. ci cum ce oi ed g T , j to the unfa v o ura ble situa tion where tho se tents were i tched in the middle o f a na rro w d e p , ( al surro unded lo ft hills a nd to the hea v by y ,) y s o w s o f ra in tha t fell duri n the ni ht r n h er g g , e ed o ur i v o ua c no mea ns env ia ble and der b by , much in ur to o ur ho rses es ecia ll to c a used j y , p y i on h s o hi s v a lu e a ni e tha t d ed t e t. a l mi n , p T b al which wa s o f the ra ce o f a ra ah and had m , K b , he s irit nd ood ualiti es of the Ara i n a ll t p a g q b a , 836 mi nimu m o r had g one throug h the fa tig ues a nd priv a tions of o ur

v er eenl fore felthis loss y k y . In the co urse of the nig ht I pa id a v isit to ﬁ' Prince Mada to in his ki v i tka , and fo und him re clini ng ag ainst a cushion deeply eng a g ed i n con v ersa tio n wi th a n old man who a ssed a mon his , p g co mrades fo r a soo thsa er nd who se sin ula r y , a g dress and wild look mig ht ha v e qualiﬁed him for

the spirit of evil . Indeed the da rkness o f the la ce which wa s inv olv ed in smoke and li hted p , , g

g lare on the stra ng e countena nce of the old T artar co n uro r wa s hl cu ted o n h n one j , hig y ca l la t stre g t e in thi s im ressio p n . Ea rly o n the follo wing da y we pursued o ur jo urney thro ug h picturesque defiles a nd smili ng v alle s whi h form the rinci l fea tures o f this y , c p pa of o n b en a me wa s the fi rst v illa e part N g a . V d g we met with o n lea v ing behind a ma g nificent o rest and furt er on the co untr a s fa r as the f ; h , y ci ty of No ug ha ma y be sai d to be a pro long ed arden na ture a nd a rtha v i n com ined to render g , g b i t a n a lmost ea rthly pa ra di se. The ho rse I no w rode being una ble to keep up with those o f o ur art who tra v elled a t a v er p y, y ri sk a ce soon lo st si ht o f them and a few b p , I g , wersts beyond Venda me missed the imperfectly ten tra ck and eca e entan led in a ma e o f bea , b m g z k fi ro ken a nd a ru t soil where y de les and b b p , m h do o i ees and threw me y orse came wn n h s kn ,

388 na a na rrv x o r

' me one of his sons who a s a ct s uide s , w to a my g art of the wa a d ook lea v e of this ho s it p y , n I t p a ble f il who like the rest of th ir cou tr a m y, , e n y men co sid r t exerci e f o i a lit as e , n e he s o h sp t y on of th ir m t s ie e os acred dut s. To wards the close of the da y I arri v ed at

Pombé a sm ll v ill e hirt - e h w , a a g t y ig t ersts dis ta nt fro m Venda me where s ent the ni ht , I p g , and o n the follo win da reached o n ba ha v i g y N g , ng suffered mo re from the excessiv e hea t o f the

‘ wea ther than had hitherto ex eri en ed in this , I p c

country from tha t ca use. The news of our v i c tory ha v ing alrea dy been announced by General Yermolo w in a roclamatio n in which the al p , g lantr of o ur soldiers who nev er ex ect to receiv e y , p pra ise a t the hands o f their chief unless they render themselv es worth of it wa s ustl ex y , j y tolled the co mma nda nt of o n ba wa s of i , N g ﬁc ally d o f o ur roceedin whi ch he h informe p g s, a d also a n oppo rtunity of learning v erbally fro m my

comrades whom I now joined. ' rince Madatoﬂ who li kewi se recei v ed here P , in an o fﬁcial manner the thanks o f the g eneral

i a - chief fo r the manner in which he ha d con

ducted the ex edition roke u the head- ua rters p , b p q , w o l r necessa r and accom a ni ed which ere n onge y , p ' Y kouwo v itch took his de by Bebo uto fi and a , rture each to re a ir to his res ectiv e destina pa , p p ' whilst o t e ue Ysa ko fi a nd m self tion ; K z b , , y , pro ce eded by the direct roa d thro ug h Eliza beth ol Tcflis where we a rri v ed on the ev enin of p to , g D ON J UAN VAN H ALE N. 339 the 6th of Jul without mee in wi h n a y , t g t a y cci

The ho use o f my excellent comrade and friend B a ron Renemkam h a a in eca me m la ce o f p , g b y p a bode durin m sta a t Teﬂi s which he ri htl g y y , g y su osed would not be v er lon the li era pp y g , b ting cr Of the arm Of the sla a nd the enerous acts y y I , g which ha d ennobled the ﬁrst steps Of Spani sh re enera tion ha vin no w reached ev en further g , g tha n the a ucasu and re ov ed the obsta cles C s, m w hi ch had hi therto prev ented my return to the un r irt co t y Of my b h.

The eneral- in - chief to whom we resented g , p o urselv es the da a fter o ur a rri v al rec v y , ei ed us i n the mo st ﬂa tterin ma nner a nd oi ti n wi g , p n g th ev ident sa tisfa ction to the sta nda rds ta ken a t

J o serek which a dorned the a n les Of his salo o n , g , pa ssed a eulo g y on the o fﬁcers Of Prince Ma da " toff s sta ff in a rticula r a nd on the ex editiona p , p ry rm in eneral After hea rin from us tho a y g . g se etai ls o f which he wa s no t et i n o ssessio n h d y p , e av e us wi th hi s chara cteristic frankness a n g , , g e e ral inv ita tion to his house li rar and ta le n , b y , b , a a ttention which he shewed to a ll who serv ed with

r zeal under hi s o rde s. e da s a fter m a rri v al a t Teﬁi s o enl Som y y , I p y declared to himthe powerful mo ti v es tha t induced e o wish the return to m nati v e co un m t y try, which had no w thro wn o pen her g a tes to all her exiled children and conse uentl m desire to , q y y ! 2 341) NARRAT IVE o r

rv i Y m lo w w i uit the ussia n se ce. er o ho l s q R , ne to me with dee a ttentio n rea dil entered te d p , y into m feelin s but a dv i sed me to restra i n m y g , y i m a ti ence for a while until the time rescribed p , p the milita r re ula tions should a rriv e a nd by y g , tha t mea ntime he wo uld co mmunica te with the

v l Empero r unreser ed y on the subj ect. A da y or two after the a bo v e intima ti o n I re ' cei v ed a letter from m friend a o r M a ni tcha ro ﬁ y M j ,

n a ide- de- ca m Of General Betanco urt i n whi h a p , c he informed me that my kind pa tron in tended to v isi t some a rts o f the a uca sus an d ein p C , b g

' desiro us o f iddin him a la st fa rewell b g , I a sked

a nd o bta ined permi ssion of the g enera l- in- chief to roceed to isla r where I ho ed to m p K , p eet etancourt a nd for which la ce imm di B , p I e a tely set of reachin it o n the 2d of Se tember i n the , g p , m a n o f olo nel Joci us a n officer elo n i co p y C , b g ng o the cor s Of tha t eneral and who wa s t p g , em ployed in Georg ia At Kisla r we too k up o ur qua rters a t the ho use o f one o f the wea lthiest Armenians Of the coun r t y . hi s cit which is on the ro a d from a hesta n T y , D g o Astra khan will rea tl increa se in im o r t , g y p ta nce when the communica tion between T efiis a nd u a ro ected and alrea d e un Genera l K b , p j y b g by rmolo w i s entirel esta li shed tho u h the Ye y b , g completio n Of this work presents such o bsta cles will wi th di fiicult be o v ercome ev en the a s y , by i ndustry and spirit o f enterpri se of the Arme

348 NA a a Arrv n o r

' the reall a re to those a ﬁ orded b a mild and as y y , y trul a ternal o v ernment a nd to the excellence y p g , of the loca l olice the clea nli ness and comfo rt of p , he u s and the erfect harmon a nd tran t ho se , p y l t of he na ti v es i v e to Ki sla r a su e quil i y t , g p riority o ver ma ny o f the provi nces of the v ast g ov ernment of the Ca uca sus . The city i s pro ted a solidl constructed ortr ss whi is tec by y f e , ch well mounted a nd g arrisoned .

The arriv al of General Beta ncourt, which took ha iled with joy by the mercantile inhabita nts o f islar who ho ed to deriv e so me eneﬁt from K , p b is v i i these a rts as connected with so e h s t in p , m proj ect useful to the co mmerce of the country . Thoug h Betanco urt was surpri sed atmeeti ng me here he ea sil uessed the o ect Of m ourne , y g bj y j y, and appla uded the mo tiv es tha t prompted me to

nati v e land. He ho wev er was o f o inion my , , p , that I oug ht no t to lea v e the empire without per. n ll iv in m thanks to Alexander fo r so a y g g y , the ma g na nimo us receptio n I had experienced from him and ro osed m oinin him i n r , p p y j g C imea o wards the latter end o f e tem er i n or t S p b , der to

roceed i n his com a n to St. Peters ur h an p p y b g , arra n ement the mo re a reea le to m feeli n s g g b y g , as it would afford me the opportuni ty of once more seeing tho se g enero us friends fro m who m I had receiv ed so ma ny proofs Of attachment and m ca . D O U N VAN H E N 34 N J A AL . 3

B a letter o f which was the bearer Genera l y , I , B eta ncourt recei ved an invi ta tion fro m Yermolo w to cro ss the a uca sus and cast a ra id lance C , p g o v er those prov inces between which he had en d ea v oured to esta lish a communica tion that he b , mig ht report to the Emperor the beneﬁts tha t w ere likely to a ccrue from the improv ements he in ha d projected. Thi s v ita tion Beta nco urt a c ce ted tho u h not without hesita tion as his p , g , i tinera r was alrea d traced and hi s v i sit to y y , Crimea urg ent a nd a t the express desire Of the E mperor ; but ha vi ng consulted the ma p o f the untr and hea rd from m cer in deta ils rela co y, e ta ti v e to the practica bility of tra v elling with expe dition in those rov inces be determined to com l p , p y wi th the desires of General Yermo lo w ho in , p g tha t by using the utmost despa tch he would be able to a cco mpli sh both objects . i n l General Beta ncourt dela in is Accord g y , y g h a islar as little a s o ssi le av e o rders stay t K p b , g f r o ur immedi ate de a rture and we left the cit o p , y in the a fternoon of the 7th by the roa d of Mo zdok .

B eta ncourt tra v elled with a co mfort unknown in .

hese districts but to which hi s adv anced a e t , g entitled himev en more than hi s rank or the hig h uali t Of the erson who accom ni im q y p pa ed h , m a who m wa s Ga utskin a eneral in the g p , g me de a rtment as B ta nco urt Of whose se v ices sa p e , r e la tter fre uentl a v ailed himself Besides th q y . sev eral caleches for the conv e ance o f the a rt y p y,

re wa s a v an dra wn also ost- horses and the , by p , ' 3M NAl l A tI V ' or l .

conta inin ev er thin in ro v i cookin uten g y g p sions, g sils c. th t could o ssi l he so tha t , & , a p b y wanted ; we tra v elled ni ht a d da witho ut ex eriencin g n y , p g any inconv enience in pa ssing throug h the dreary steppes which extend from a little beyond Kislar

‘ to Tcherlana ia , where the colonies Of the T en t Th commence. e surprise we excited among the l uc ks who a o n thi s line of roa d furnish the Ka m , l g trav ellers with ost- hors s resented a si n ular p e , p g contrast with thei r usual li stlessness . The women with sca rcel a clo thin on and thei r lon y ny g , g tress s ﬂoa tin do wn their sho ulders and the e g , . chil ren entirel naked cro wded aro und us ith d y , w a n ea g erness which was soon conv erted i nto a

ﬁxed sta re Of wonder and a dmi ra tion . Ev ery thin th sa w in o ur ha ds and which the g ey n , y were allowed to touch, underwent, then, the ma t minute exa minatio n ; whilst the remnants of our re ast immediatel disa eared a s id also the p y pp , d r v lli n ca of General Beta ncourt who had t a e g p , i erte l left it in the la ce where he h d nadv nty . p a been sitting ; and which was used by the boys f o ur di n as a receptacle for the frag ments o ner. On the ev enin Of the 8th we rea ched o z o k g M d , where Beta nco urt left the g rea test part o f his l i h ui a e n the ho use of . a wea th n a i tant eq p g i y b , who entertained the whole of our pa rty most splen. didl a n on the follo win da we crosse the y, d g y d e a k mee in in our road escorts and re T r , t g lays n our arriv a l which had been re a r ready o , p p ed be forehand b orders of the eneral- ia - chief so th v g , - at

346 NARRAT IVE or

where w , it ould seem, I ha d conduc ted him to be a witness to the extrao rdi na ry déno ﬁemen t tha t a waited the termina ti on of my military ca reer i n ussi a a nd which wa s mo re sensi l felt b R , b y y m enero us a tron who had so rea t a sha re in y g p , g m admission i nto the ussia n serv i ce tha n ev en y R ,

by myself. The m eror Alexa nder in a kno wled ment E p , c g Of the serv ices la tely rendered by the tro o ps o f Geo r ia conferred on them the title o f Arm o f g , y the a u a sus and decora tions romo tio n5 and C c , , p , fav o urs on all those who ha d di sting ui shed them selv es i n the ex edition to Ka z ko um k a ccord p y y , i ng to the repo rt which the g eneral in chi ef ha d iv en of their res ectiv e merits a nd in whi ch g p , , I ositiv el kno w w f r a s not o o tt n . h im p y , I g e T ese perial fa v o urs arriv ed a tTeﬁis by a n extra o rdi nary co r B ut the testimo n fell o m o urie . y tha t t y l t f v er sin ula r na ture. wa s o a. y g His im erial ma est una le to di s ui se his p j y, b g displea sure a t the successful a ttempt ma de by my oppressed co untrymen to cast oi? the yo ke whi ch fo r six lo n ea rs ha d aral ed their ener ies g y p yz g , and reduced them to the sa me sta te o f deg ra da tion a s tha t into whi ch the serfs o f the empire were unk ented his s leen on me and a v e o rders s , v p , g

to the g eneral- in- chief for my immedi a te dismi ssal the servi ce and for m uittin the ussian from , y q g R dominions under an escort tha t should be made respo nsible for the prompt and enti re execution of

hi s wi shes. Such wa s the reward which the Emperor Alex V 34 D ON J UAN AN HALE N . 7 a nder thoug ht proper to adjudg e to one who had a ided in planting his standard on the towers Of ’ hi s enemies ra mpa rts -But I pursue no further m r ﬂections on this s ect fo r howev er a ro y e ubj , p prla te they mig ht be with reg a rd to a monarch who tho u h e ha d it in his o wer to ins re the , g h p u ha iness of the hristia n wo rld chose a ther to so w pp C , r di ssension and cala mi ty among the people of those na tions who so ug ht by peacea ble means redress Of the irrepa ra ble wrong s done them by a n immoral ction th ca n e Of li ttle a v a il a s Alexander fa ey b , ha s no w rendered an ac co unt Of hi s actions to tha t

o wer who in his eternal ud ments ma kes no di s P , j g , ti nctio n between the king and the humblestsubject. I do not consider myself a t liberty to enter into a full expla na tion Of the g enerous conduct whi ch wa s pri v a tely a dopted by General Yermolo w to f nd hi m lf consti uted h w ards me, when he ou se t t e executo r of tho se rig o ro us orders ; but there a re circumstances the o mission Of which wo uld pro erl su ect me to the char e o f in ra titude p y bj g g , f h e m nti d h d which there o re o u t to b e one ere. an , , g Y rmolow awa re o f the unfa v o ura le im res e , b p ’ m command fo r m dis i sion which the e peror s y m s, sa l must roduce in the minds o f m comrades p y , especi ally a t a moment when he wa s to ma ke kno wn the multitude o f fav o urs which his maj esty was plea sed to co nfer on those in who se dang ers nd tri um hs ha d sha red a nd unwillin to a a p I , g g g ra v a te the unpleasan t reﬂections whi ch such in tellig ence wa s calcula ted to crea te in my Own mind i ts i mediate disclo sure ke t it a rofo und by m , p p ’ 348 NARRA 'rrVR or

secret fro m all ex t from his uest General , cep g Beta nco urt whose hin de artu e ren , a pproa c g p r de l red this d r . his n ra confi ence necessa y T g e e , a ctua ted by the sa me co mpa ssiona te mo ti v es as Yermo lo w a s ained fro m mentio nin the su ect , b t g bj to me thou h hi une nes an d concern were to o , g s a si s r appa ent not to a ttract my observ a tion . At leng th the da y fi xed for the departure of General Beta ncourt hav i n arriv ed went to g , I take m fi nal lea v e Of him a nd fo und him wait y , ing for me to bid me a di eu before he set o ff on ” his dea r f iend he sa id ta kin ourne . M r j y y , , g me a side a nd with an ai r o f interest a nd com a s , p si Y on o ur v il fortune still ursues o u . ou , y e p y ha v e et to learn t e ostdi reea le intelli ence y h m sa g b g , which it was impossible either to foresee o r pre v ent. D O you stand in need o f money and after a usin for a minute durin whi ch he easil p g , g y read in m countenance a ne a ti v e to his uestion y g q ,

he drew his ocket- ook and writin a few wo rds p b , g on a a er which he utin m ha nds a d ed In p p , p y , d , wha tev er pa rt of Europe yo u sho uld ﬁ nd yo urself witho ut means do not iv e o urself u to want , g y p , butma ke use of tha t a er a nd o u will tain p p , y Ob ” a ny sum sufﬁcient fo r yo ur reli ef. a i n thi s he a de me fa rewell the ea rs S y g b , t startin to his e es a nd immedi a tel roceeded g y , y p me i n a sta te of a sto nish d i ment an confusion, from wh ch I reco v ered o nly to perplex an d lose myself in conj ectures on wha t I had heard fro m the kindest of my

NARRAT IVE OF

secret fro m General Be a ncour re a red me for t t, p p the unex ected intelli en ce in such a ma nner p g , howev er a s to lea v e the unplea sant ta sk of its di s clo sure for the enera l- in- chief who sent me word g , thro ug h the Ba ron tha t he wo uld see me pri v a tely for the purpose of ma king some impo rta nt com munica tions to me.

a v in a reea l to this re uest resented H g , g b y q , p ’ myself in the g eneral s ca binet a t the a ppointed ho ur Yermolo w a fter ma kin so me reﬂection s on , , g the v icissi tudes of m life and in some measure y , i me fo r so me un lea san t communica tio n prepar ng p , m rted to me the orders of the m ero r whi ch i pa E p , , nfo c w h howev er, he decla red he would no t e r e it the ri o ur the wer rescri ed a s from his g y e p b , , no wled e o f the cha ra c r of Alexander he wa s k g te , conv inced they did no t ema na te from the Emperor hi self but fro m some o f tho se who m he often m , by ” m o o n ed w ia ssed . a f o ini he a d that as b I p , d , o u ho ul write a rief ex o sitio n to his a est y s d b p M j y, to uching upo n the mo st pro mi nent ev ents o f yo ur life a nd rev erses o f fo rtune wi tho ut o mi tin the , t g la st yo u ha v e experi enced ; and I will o n my side add wha t I thi nk will be an a mple a polo g y fo r my depa rting fro m o rders whi ch wo uld ﬁ x on his

Majesty the stig ma of ing ra titude a nd inj ustice. Indeed I a m to o much interested in the honour a nd di ni of hi s n me to allo w a n o fﬁcer wh g ty a , om ood rv ic s av e recommended to hi s no tice g se e I h , to pa rtfro m us with unfav o urable impressi ons on D ON JU N VAN H 351 A ALE N.

his mind . Accordin l will neither ha sten o ur g y, I y de a rture nor l r h l nce of a p , p a ce you unde t e v ig i a

g ua rd . Yo ur promise tha t yo u will absta i n fro m entering Mo scow and St; Petersburg h will be all shall re uir eantime adv ise o u I q e of you . M I y to continue wearin o ur unifo rm and to ma ke no g y , altera tion tha t ma y betray the real ca use o f yo ur de a rtur io r o this new r e. Be then su er t ev erse p p , a nd return to ur societ for when we se o y ; para te, there is ev er rea son o eli ev e i t will be fo r y t b ,

o ur- and- twen h ur after this interv i ew m F ty o s , y ex o si ion o wa to p t t the Empero r wa s o n its y St. Petersburg h but unwilling to i ncrea se the re sponsibili ty of General Yermolo w by delaying my departure beyond the time i ndi spensable for ma king the a rra n ements for m o urne ha stened them g y j y, I , and accordin to the esta li shed custo m a v e to g b , g m comra des a fa rewell dinner a t which had y , I al so the plea sure of seeing mo st o f the ladies a nd g entlemen i n whose ho uses I had been a v isitor a t T eﬁis. My pri v a te mean s ha d not been much increa sed during my serv ice i n the Russi a n army ; so that I wa s oblig ed to ra i se some mo ney by the sale of m small collecti on of ooks a nd o f the onl y b , y ho r ha remained to me the roduce of which se t t , p , d will ea sil eli ev e wa s no mea ns the rea er y b , by such a s wo uld defra y my tra v elling expenses from o ne extremity of Euro pe to the o ther ; butbeing i ner feltlittle concern a t this a nd a n old ca mpa g I , 352 Na na a rrv r: o r

on the 31st of Octo ber I presented myself to the

enera l- in- chief to recei v e his ﬁnal instruct o ns g , i res ec tin m o urne on which was to set out p g y j y, I A rdin to h in on the 3rd of Nov ember. cco g t e structi ons I then recei v ed from Yermolow I was ~ " to wa it a t Dubno the ﬁnal resoluti o n of the E m ” erot for sa id he ho e he will see his p ; , , I p At a ll ev ents error a nd do you j usti ce. I will ha v e o u acce t of thi s document ' whi ch ma be y p ,1 y the mea ns of shielding yo u fro m the intrig ues of h m incl ned o mol s u B esides t ose w o a be i t e t o . h y y ,

I a dv ise yo u to v isit the g eneral - comma nda nt of

tha tdi stric t, who is a n old co mra de of mine, a nd

i h d- ua rte s in wn i s has h s ea q r tha t to . He a v ery worth man and o u ma ure f meeti y , y y be s o ng from ” him a g ood reception . On hea ring tha t Baron Renemka mph wa s desi ro us of accom a n in me a s far as M o do k he p y g z , readil ra nted him hi s ermi ssion a nd e ed y g p , b g g me to defer o ur depa rture till the a fternoo n o f the w ﬁxed u on tha t we mi ht all di day e had p , g ne m r tog ether once o e. The mo ment for my taking a ﬁnal lea v e o f rmolo w ha v in a rri v d he n l Ye g e , t g e era ro se fro m le and mo tioni n to m fri end a nd m tab , g y yself to follo w him to his ca inet in uired of me o n r b , q ea ch n it with a n a ir o dee interest wha mo i g , f p , t ney I

lh on he n f R ia A town in Vo ynia t fro tiers o uss and Gali tci a . 1' A ﬂa ttering testimonial of the servi ces I had rendered in eor i a and es eciall durin our late ex editi on a a instthe Khan G g , p y g p g

354 . Na a a a rrv r. o r

comma nds in Geor i w g a , and hich Yermolo w de sired me to preserve as a pmduction of the co un

' He then embraced me a ﬁ ectio na tel a n s i y , d a d with the tenderness of a fa ther a rewell m F , y dea restfriend ! Ma y God protect yo u fro m the ma china tions o ur enemies a nd our hi s le s: f yo , p b s ing s on you Our ho rses being in readiness at the do or of ’ the eneral s house m friend a nd m self fo l g , y y , l ed our two serv ants set o ff o n o ur o urne ow by , j y

a cro asus and rea ched o dok sev en . ss the Ca uc , M z days after our depa rture fro m Teﬁis. Here I ba de an eterna l farewell to my o bligi ng fri end Renemkm h whose us d a ffect p , g enero an ionate conduct towards me I ca n compa re only to tha t of m former comrade olo tho u h to thi s da y P , g y I hav e been unable to a scertain whether any one of the numero us letters I ha v e written to him has m ever rea ched hi . Owing to the rig o ur observ ed in the quaran tines es eciall to wa rds tho se who come fro m the , p y eastern s de o f the a uca sus and to some mi k i C , sta e tha t occurred we were deta ined ﬁfteen da s in , y that of e orlik and onl rea ched D ubno o n the Y g , y ni ht of the 21st ov em er when the cold e an g N b , b g v el fel alrea dy to be se er y t. The hotel where I alig hted a t Dubno was kept an ta lia n a v er lea sa nt a nd serv icea le by I , y p b ma n w o ha d succeeded in esta li shin it on an , h b g not howev er remain excellent footing . I did , , V B E ; D ON J UAN A N AL N. 385

in it f r on the followin mo rnin when lo ng ; o g g , I en ed self to General Go uel comma n p res t my g , da n t o f the div ision of infa ntry stationed in the v i i nit t i cit who had alread een i s c y of h s y, y b fo rmed by General Yermolo w of my jo urney a thi ther, and of the motiv es th t occa sioned it, he

i nsi sted on m takin u m ua rters in hi s house y g p y q , ne t his wn a s sig ning me a roo m x to o . General Go uel with who m no w ecame ac g , I b a i nted for the first time wa s a ma n in the rime q u , p o f life of a no le and martia l mien a nd v er fi ne , b , y rv under the orders of Gene person . He had se ed ral Yermolo w in the uro ea n ca m i na and E p p g , w rea tl im rom h moment a s g y a ttached to h . F t e I too k u m residence wi th him he manifested p y , i n a n unequiv ocal ma nner the interest and sym a th he feltfor me and did all he co uld to render p y , m sta t u no a s lea sant a s m ible in y y a D b p p , by ucin e all the officers o f hi s divi sion tro d g m to , a nd es eciall to General Ba rtelemi commandant p y , o f t e ri a de of artiller sta tioned in thi s cit to h b g y y, v r u Co lonel Barono w, and to a io s other chiefs, fro m who m I likewi se met the kindest recep

On the morning of the 14th December the ﬁ na l m resolution o f the E peror rea ched General Gog uel. The posttha tbroug hti tha d been despa trhed from Wa rsa w a t the moment when Al exa nder was set ti ng o ff for the cong ress o f Troppa u ; a nd the resent o rder tho u h i t di d no t re uire like the p , g q former that I should be escorted as a malefac tor 356 Na a i a rtv s:o r

out of the ussi an dominions was b no means R , y more fa vo urable to me no r more hono ura ble to its a uth i i n should be laced or, s nce t e joined tha t I p at the en f us cabinet be tire mercy o the A tria n , tw w wa s not een hose members and myself there , nor co uld ev o d erbe, the remo testconnecti n . In eed, whether I was to be co nsidered as a Spa nia rd or a s a ussian ofiicer the o utra e no w do ne me R , g by the a utocra t wa s equally di sg raceful a nd nu merited. Accordi ng to the present imperial order I was immedia tely to set off fo r Leopold accompa nied an officer of m o wn rank who wa s to d eliv er by y , me ov er to the Austrian g eneral- g o v erno r o f that cit who the tim o i v a l wo uld h v e y, by e f my a rr a recei v ed instructio ns respecting the conduct he wa s to o serv e towards m b e. General Go uel as a n officer res onsi le for g , p b the execution of those orders, was under the 0i

a tion o c rr i them into effect tho u h a s a g f a y ng , g friend wh w his fresh in usti with co ncern , o sa t j ce , he did all tha t was in hi s power to mi tig a te its much i o ur. ccordi n l dis la in ene r g A g y, p y g as g ro sit a s his illustrio us friend General Yermo lo w y , o ffer of his urse o f which tha nks he made me an p , ( to the liberali ty of the fo rmer) I did no t sta nd in

need ; and lea v ing to my . choice to a ppoint the a s to a ccom an me to e old he Ofﬁcer who w p y L op , osal a v in pla ced hi s ca rriag e a t o ur di sp . H g re

The capital of Austrlan Galitcis.

NARRATIVE

here roceeded dul ed m sen r , I p y a ttend by y t y , who to my utter astonishment followed me into ’ the eneral s a artm nts where he sto od m g p e , by y s de if he were m shado w mov n where v er i , a s y , i g I mov ed and la stl osti n hi self hi d m chair , y p g m be n y urin t e r t witho ut m v in a lim or d g h epea , o g b rcel a mus l he ri i d v it of hi s co unte sca y c e, t g g ra y

Sev eral da s ha d no w ela sed a nd no chan e y p , g wro u ht m sin ular n nei e g in y g si tua tio . I th r was allowed to wri te to my friends no r to fo rm any acquaintance i n the to wn ; my compla ints d n rea es were e uall disre Atlen h my e t ti q y g arded. g t , hav ing obta ined permission to write to the Spa nish di l m a ent a t the co urt of Vienna was p o atic g , I

e on the 15t o f Januar tha tthe o v ern. i nform d, h y, g

e the civ il oli ce a nd not onl to tra ce the ov r to p , y w to follo w but n the di ursement ro ute I as , ame sb I was to ma ke in o rder to defra y my tra v elli ng In v ain rotested a a inst such a expenses. I p g in which had declined the scandalous proceed g , I s i tan e o f General Yermolo w and g enerou ass s c , ’ sted to the ani sh mini ster s ecunia r a id tru Sp p y , would ha ve placed me in an a wkward dilemma ; i s la d n f the soldier was d p ce by an ag e t o the police, who thoug ht proper to come into my anied sev eral Jews of the lo west cla ss who in p by , this part of Germa ny are the most a cti v e co V D ON J U AN A N H A LE N . o erators of the o hen p p lice. W I saw this rabble a t the door of m a artment s y p , I resi ted their entra nce as much a s la in m ower and y y p ; , no so lv ed not to submit to the indig nity of being

tested in moderate but ﬁrm terms to the mili ta r a uthorit a ainst thi s di s raceful mea sur y y g g e, tho ug h with no better success than o n prev ious o ccasions. My limits will no t permit of my enteri ng into

the details of the numberless .v exati ons I expe rienced a t the hands of the Austria n g ov ernment nd its a ents —d il s whi ch w l swell a g , eta o u d this narra ti v e i nto a no ther v o lume. I shall therefore

a ss them o v er i n silence a nd r c d wi th the p , p o ee

rema inder o f my j o urney . On the afterno on of the 19th of Janua ry I left

Leo old in the custod of o ne of the oli ce-men p y p , and a rriv ed ea rly in the mo rning o f the 27th a t rimm in ora v ia where on m ali htin fro B , M , , y g g m

he carria e wa s saluted two o mino us- looki n t g , I by g

fellows with la nterns in their hands, who came to reinforce my esco rt until the time for my depar re sho uld a rri v e which wa s to be re ula tu , g ted a t he will of the commissa r o f olice o Brimm t y p f . Thi s ersona e who looked as if the world ha d p g , n ma de fo him a lone ma de hi s a e rance in bee r , pp a a u welv e a t noon a nd i o rm the oﬂi ce at bo t t , nf ed rm hle m tha t t e o v me with true Ge an p g , h g ern ment hav ing i nterdicted my passi ng throug h V where neither knew nor was k o n o ienna , ( I n w t 360 ua a na 'n v a or

an one he ha d re ared for me a carria e of y .) p p g , ( co urse a t m o wn ex ense a nd iv en orders to y p ,) g

one of hi s entlemen a olice- ma n to kee me g , p , p company till he sa w me sa fe into the hands of another and to take ca re tha t sho uld roceed , I p by the most direct roa d o ut of the Austrian

As I ha d alrea dy experienced too much kindness a t the hands of his co untrymen to be so i ncensi dera te as to wish ivin them further trou le g g b , I had no thin to sa a ainst his wi se determi na ti on g y g ,

therefore I returned him a tho usa nd tha nks, and

ff f r int unfo rtuna tel a t a v er slo w ra te set o o L z y y , thoug h such a s the wretched horses a nd wo rse ha rness ermitted a rriv in a t tha t cit o n the p , g y ni h g t o f the 31st insta nt. On the follo wing morning I wa s ta ken befo re the director o f oli ce of the ro v ince who te p p , ceiv ed me with the ha ug hty demea no ur o f one ' who se principal duty consisted in oppresmng whomsoev er hi s superi ors pointed o ut a s a ﬁt r rs u ion his man ut en i o o bject fo pe ec t . T p a p nt m hand a nd im erio usl o dered me to si n a y , p y r g pa per written in a lang ua g e of which I did not i u ers an d a wor . h s o f co urse ref sed nd t d T , , I u to m l wi th unless was furnished wi th a co co p y , I py f l o f t and a faith ul tra ns a tion the documen ,

Th di rector ro a l unused to ea r f o m he e , p b b y h r t poor wretches who fell under his a bsolute control a sitiv e refusal like mi ne could n t co nta in his po , o ra e and burst forth into a usi v e threa ts a nd g , b

369 n a c na 'rrv n o r

hed assa where the civ il a uthorit re I reac P u, y l m of m oli ce u rd leased me from the thra do y p g a ,

questi ng me in the most courteo us ma nner to delay my depa rture until they sho uld lea rn from a hi her a utho rit wha t route wa s to fo llow g y I , as I had been deli v ered ov er to them wi tho ut a

pa ssport or instructions. The trea tment I experienced from the o fﬁcers of the arri son duri n the ﬁv e da s rema ined g , g y I

at a ssa u was as hos ita le as it wa s unex ted. P , p b pec Fromthe ﬁrst momentof my a rriv al till the ho ur of m de a rture i t was for me a continued festi v al y p ,

who ho wev er were united to me a ki d ( , , by ndre feeling fo r the triumph of the g ood ca use of my countr in which the ma ori t of the B i n y , j y a var a n on v iden l oined was to them lik an ati e ty j , ) I e de in who se arriv al the all r o ld comra e oiced. , y j The v i ilance o f the nei hbourin o wer ho w g g g p , ev er still continued una a ted a nd tho u h was , b , g I no w in a territory to which thei r a utho rity did no t extend wa s not onl c losel s ied but , I y y p , represented to the g ov ernment o f Ba v a ri a as a da n ro us rev olutionist whose de g e , pa rture from

un r ht no t . the co t y o ug to be dela yed. Accord i n l the a utho rities ‘ a t unich issued ir g y , M the orders to those of Pa ssa u to allow me to pro

d on m o urne . left thi s cit o n he th oec y j y I y t 7 , rri v ed a t inda u on he 1 and a L t 1th, wi tho ut hav

i n ex erienced an more ersona l i n g p y p conv enience, D ON JUAN VAN a a LnN. 363 nor any ta x on my reduced ﬁna nces on the part of the Ba v arian g ov ernmen t. w A g entleman and hi s family with ho m I tn » ur h in u dvi sed me o v elled fro mAug sb g to L da , a t eng ag e a boat to conv ey me o v er the la ke o f Con sta nce to the canton o f Zurich a nd on the follo wing se il in th co m a n of a ni ece morning I t sa , e p y

f e a ov e- mentoned entleman who did me o th b i g , the honour of placing her under my pro tection as r a s urich whither she was oin on a v isi to fa Z , g g t ela ti of w w o e of the rinci al a r on hers, ho a s n p p o ur a r e lided mag istrates of the place. As b g g thl o er h lacid wa ters o he la ke m smoo y v t e p f t , y f ir co m a nio n who la ed o n the ui tar with a p , p y g ex uisite taste sun with mu h weetne o e of q , g c s ss s m her na ti o nal melodies a ccom a n in herself with , p y g her nstrument and th w a n in r s e ar i , re exp e sibl ch m o v er o ur short na v i a tion which wa s rendered g , still mo re delig htful by the transpa rentbea uty of a clo udless sk y . oon a fter landin m tem ora r ward her old S g , y p y , a ttendant a nd m self entered a tra v ellin v ehicle , y , g , a nd proceeded on o ur road to Zurich which we re ched o n t m a he orning of the follo wing da y . My extreme a nxiety to see the termina tion of a jo urney fra ug ht with more tro uble and inconv eni ence tha n comfo rt o r lea sure e p , induced me to decline th ' hospita ble and courteous oﬁ er o f the mag i strate (to who m I presented the amia ble lady who ha d beeen placed under my ca re) of spendi ng a few days in their company ; and hav ing taken my lea v e 364 Na nsa rrv n or

of them in the course of tha t da I reached y , Berne on the morning of the 1l th; and con ti nned m ourne wa of Genev a ons y j y by y , Ly , alon he ho ne he u h o f rance g t R and t so t F , to Ba onne where I arri v ed on the 26 th of the y , sa me month ha v in had the unex ec ted leasure , g p p

’ of meeti ng in Montpelli er one of my best Russian friends who held a hi h r k in e hussars of the , g an th ua rd and in whose co m n had s ent some g , pa y I p l ‘ i ntle p easant moments a t T zarskoi eselo . Th s g e man who wa s tra v ellin in thi s deli htful a rt of , g g p ﬂ ame fo r the eneﬁt o f hi s health ro u ht to b , b g m recollection scenes which hav in s run from y , g p g kindness a nd ho s ita lit are indeli l im rinted p y, b y p i n min my d .

' Atlen h on the 2 th h he inex ressi le g t , 7 , I ad t p b

“ pleasure o f ag ain breathing the a ir of my na tiv e land and some da s after ha t of em racin m , , y t , b g y a ed arents rothers and sisters a s Well as m g p , b , , y

enero nds n e - f g us frie a d f llow su ferers.

' v ass Na a a a rr a , ti e. and harles Ro iers the last of whom translated C g , ’ i nto French the Memoirs of Van Halen s life. Bei ng in Brussels a t the time o f the la te revo lutio n he la ced himself a t he hea d of the , p t eo le and accordi n to the a cco unts we hav e p p , , g een a le to collect was indefa i a le i n or aniz b b , tg b g i n and leadin them a ai nst the utch tro s g g g D op , ’ during the four days ﬁg ht preceding the expul

sio n of the latter.

h isiona l Go v ernmen ra te for the T e Pro v t, g ful services be had rendered to their ca use a ointed , pp

- - him commander in chief. In this election they do ubtless committed a sig nal erro r ; fo r a postin

conferred u on a forei ner witho ut exciti the p g , ng jea lo usy o f ri v al na ti v es. But they soon repai red it nd n a manner as to shew he were t , a i such t y no deﬁcientin ra titud o r backward in a recia tin g e, pp g i n w di ni the zeal he ha d d spla yed. Va n Hele as g

ﬁ wi th k of li eut n - eneral a nd made ed th e ran e antg , inspector Of the fortresses ; but his pro sperity is resen nclouded it remains to be a tp t, not u , and seen whether the some g ood fortune which ha s hit r hi will n he to a ttended s steps, conti ue to be

TH E E ND .

’ - er -t n a s a r u rn s, sonNsON s coo a r, rat ra s h .