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AVAILABLE AT Editor in Chief Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Managing Editor Cara Griffin Senior Editor Bob McGee FOOTWEARINSIGHT.COM Contributing Editor Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Art Director Francis Klaess Associate Art Director Mary McGann Contributors Nancy Ruhling Tim Sitek Suzanne Blecher Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711 Advertising Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] 404-849-4156 Christina Henderson 516-305-4710 [email protected] Troy Leonard [email protected] 352-624-1561 Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043 Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021
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Footwear Insight® is a trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC, Great Neck, New York. ©2016 All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Footwear Insight is not responsible 12 22 26 40 46 50 for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Footwear Insight may not be reproduced in whole or in part KICKS CHAOS RUN MARKET SHOE DOGS WORK IT THE DISRUPTORS LINES WE LIKE without the express permission of the publisher. Amid the chaos, the An analysis of the Footwear Insight offers Brands share how they Taking a different path These performance Footwear Insight is published bi-monthly: athletic shoe business road ahead for the up our listing of the are “making it work” with retail distribution running shoes are Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/ is set up for an running industry. Plus, footwear industry’s in the hospitality, can pay off for brands. scoring points Oct; and Nov/Dec by Formula4 Media LLC. eventual renaissance a look at the energy “geatest shoe dogs of healthcare and light We take a look at some with tech stories Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) starring three brands. running category. all time.” duty segments. prime examples. and curb appeal. in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds) for surface mail. Postmaster: Send address changes to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318, Great Neck, NY 11023 On this page: Powertrain Sport by Timberland PRO. On the cover: Alegria’s Deb clog with Sugar Skulls design, MSRP $129.95. Photo by Frank James. TIMEOUT | MARK SULLIVAN
TRULY INNOVATIVE
INNOVATION IS ABOUT THE HIGHEST COMPLIMENT THAT CAN BE OFFERED IN business. So, let’s start out by giving credit to those who deserve it. With its Flyknit and Lunarglide product, Nike has brought incredible innovation to shoe design and manufacturing. The impact of those designs is evident in the collections of every athletic brand and many casual and dress lines, too. As it has many times over the past 30 years, Nike has dramatically changed how consumers think about their shoes. Apple is the other company that pundits refer- ence as true innovator and deservedly so. They’ve changed the way we buy and listen to music, the way we use our phones and, oh by the way, Apple created the tablet, a whole new category of prod- uct. And they have the best sales per square foot, $4500, of any retailer in the country. It’s been a remarkable run for both of these companies and they’ve lifted entire categories by their great work. They’ve drawn consumers into stores and they’ve set standards at which their competitors can take aim. But both admit that their innovation trains are Where do we turn slowing down and there’s not a lot in the pipeline for innovation and for the next few product cycles. So, where do we turn for innovation and inspi- inspiration in the ration in the shoe business in the coming year? I shoe business in actually like what Foot Locker is doing. Their new the coming year? flagship on West 34th Street in Manhattan is bold and – dare I say it – innovative. For those of you who have not seen it, these folks dramatically revamped a successful, productive store on one of the world’s top shopping streets. They have completely done away with the street level entrance and giant windows and replaced it with a discreet entrance and a second-floor layout that features brand boutiques from Puma and Adidas, along with special areas devoted to two of its own store layouts, House of Hoops and SIX:02. The layout and concept are dramatically different from its predecessor store, which looked like a gigantic Foot Locker with men’s shoes on one wall, women’s on the other and a bunch of T-shirts and socks in between. The old store was not bad, but this is Featuring Lynco® orthotic support way better. And credit to Foot Locker for breaking its old mold and trying something and memory foam cushioning different. The chain’s business is good; its stock price is up and Foot Locker has great for superior comfort buzz. When you have 3500 stores and $7 billion in revenue, it’s tough to get buzz going, but it’s genuine and deserved. The new Foot Locker layout is easy and fun to shop. And that may be an even better compliment than saying it is innovative. O
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COMPANY REVIVAL A Comeback Story
ood Rubber Company was born 120 years ago in 1896, sold the year she was born, but she grew up wearing her own last name and by the 1920s was making 90,000 pairs of shoes on the heel of her sneakers, something she never expected to do again. per day in its factory in Watertown, MA, as the largest That new lease comes in no small part at the hands of Janelle Samson vulcanized rubber shoe factory in the world, shipping and Marc Scepi, brand and creative directors for Hood Rubber and parent its classic rubber work shoes to 56 countries worldwide. company Pinnacle Brand Group. “Initially we asked ourselves, what would Hood was renowned for its technical craftsmanship, Hood Rubber Co. look like today if it never went away? It’s important to us Hsteel toes, and, an anomaly of the day: stylish versatility. The replaceable to acknowledge the heritage of the brand, as it was pretty groundbreaking rubber heels – of which you can touch and feel some of the last remaining at its peak in the early 20th century,” Samson says. artifacts in their original boxes at trade shows – are just one of the “As designers who live in New York City, there’s constant inspiration cool little things about these classic work shoes. You could replace and insight on what’s needed and we often find ourselves in need of the heels yourself or take them down the street to the cobbler. footwear that not only looks and feels great but can take us through “On a local level it was important because of the number of people changing environments. This type of shoe that embodies the idea of the company employed and its innovative practices that were coming metropolitan meets function, didn’t really exist, so we really created into prominence, such as offering medical and dental services,” Laura a niche market and made it happen,” Samson says. Weekes and Rick Hood, great grandchildren of co-founder Frederic “We see ourselves as advocates for the consumer,” adds Scepi. “All Hood, say. “On a national level, the high quality of products – from of the small details such as innovative materials, premium leathers shoes to tires to medical devices – made it a recognizable brand. And and comfort features are vital in each shoe we design and we hold on a global level, the importation of rubber internationally, worldwide each other accountable. We continue to highlight the use of rubber marketing and the needs that arose for rubber products during World on every shoe, whether on an outsole or the upper. Not only did we War I, and under Goodrich’s control in World War II, made the company create something special, but it also relates to the brand heritage, as important in filling many needs.” the vintage product was truly multifunctional. We see the new Hood Rubber Co. as an evolution of the original brand, a true street to trail Hood Rubber shipped its last pair of shoes in 1969... until now. Concept that will crossover to a variety of retailers.” “On first thought, the prospect of reviving the brand seemed remote,” Scepi and Samson’s talent, paired with the marketing, brand and says Elizabeth Hood Pigford, granddaughter of Frederic Hood. “Upon product information preserved from the first three decades of the 20th reflection, however, the fact that Hood Rubber Company made high- Century, have armed Hood Rubber with the vision and resources to quality products that consumers came to trust and seek out made the bring the brand into 2017 — as if it had never gone away. products seem like a perfect prospect.” Hood Rubber Company was — Aaron H. Bible
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INNOVATION On Your Feetz
SW and former Reebok chief Uli Becker are helping to bring to Dmarket a company that is using 3D printing technology to make custom fit sustainably made shoes. The Feetz brand was founded in 2013 by mathematician and entrepreneur Lucy Beard, who came up with the idea during an unsuccessful shoe shopping experience. As she walked into a Starbucks and ordered a “grande mocha light with two pumps,” Beard realized that standardized sizing does not meet individual needs for fit and comfort. Feetz’ proprietary SizeMe technology uses a mobile scanner to capture 5000 datapoints and 22 dimensions and produce a customized 3D printed shoe in less than two weeks. Feetz shoes are made with recyclable materials. Feetz launched this fall with Pop-Up measurement shops in DSW’s stores in Manhattan and San Francisco. But the company will also measure feet and sell shoes through a smartphone app that guides consumers through taking three photos of each foot. The fitting process takes more than 30 measurements from each foot to get exact sizing on each foot. The shoes are made from rubber and plastic and Feetz offers consumers the opportunity to recycle their used shoes in return for a discount on a new pair. Feetz is currently manufacturing in the U.S. with American made materials, technologies, and labor in San Diego. O
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8 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com Make molehills Out of mountains.
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1! Back in the Race ave Larson is back in the race. After different. Then Under Armour called and I of swagger and comes from the apparel angle, nearly a dozen years at Brooks, was intrigued. It’s a growth brand with a lot of which is a big advantage given the importance where he crafted the company’s opportunity in the running world. I’m excited to of fabrication and materials in this new era of “Run Happy” campaign and helped see where we can take the brand in this category. knitted and woven uppers in footwear. Also, Dspark Brooks’ ascent up the Under Armour owns the largest digital health performance running ladder, Larson retired in What’s at the top of your white board right now? and fitness community of more than 175 million June 2015. That respite, however, proved short- Continuing to build a credible run brand that is unique registered users on its connected fitness lived for the active and energetic Larson. This authentic to runners and Under Armour. The DNA platform (MapMyFitness, Endomondo and past summer, the Stanford-educated Larson of this brand is rooted in performance that has MyFitnessPal). Access to this gigantic database moved cross-country to become general manager a unique voice and I want to integrate that into of active people in the world could be a huge of running at Under Armour, where he “will everything we do on the running side. advantage for us. own the vision, strategy and the consumer” on the Baltimore-based brand’s running platform Under Armour leadership has earmarked the Under Armour has undeniable brand momentum while ensuring alignment toward the company’s running category as one of its top business from endorers such as Steph Curry and a slew broader mission and goals. priorities. Why? of NCAA team deals that will further heighten its It’s a unique task at Under Armour, a brand Running delivers a multi-billion dollar global visibility. How might these positive vibes bolster that boasts significant appeal and brand equity market. As a top sports and athletic brand, it’s a Under Armour’s efforts in running? in the marketplace, but continues battling for space we should be in. These big brand plays will surely add to the brand’s cache with young athletes, many of them runners. The NCAA team deals will definitely affect the college runner, especially given Under Armour’s unique on-campus activation programs. Outfitting and supporting these cross-country and track and field programs will also drive the business and the brand.
What do you see as some of Under Armour’s biggest challenges in the run specialty channel and how are you going to attack those? We need to be credible with these “high priests” of the running world. Product excellence, account service and relationships and being an active part of running culture are critical. Under Armour has already made big strides by adding specialty reps, running ambassadors, a new spike line, a new cross- country line and some exciting new products. The best is yet to come.
What can running specialty retailers expect from Under Armour moving forward? They can absolutely expect us to continue to build credibility and authenticity as a running Dave Larson came out of retirement to drive Under Armour’s running efforts into 2017. brand with better product and more outreach to the running community. We’re interested a greater presence in the performance running To date, Under Armour has struggled to make in driving customers into running stores and landscape. Though Under Armour is the fastest significant headway in the running specialty believe we’re one of the few brands that can growing brand for distribution and market share channel. What do you believe has stood in the bring in younger consumers, in particular. But in specialty stores, according to Sports Marketing brand’s way? we know the product has to be right and the Surveys, its distribution remains under 50 percent. You absolutely have to invest in the culture of intentions sincere. It needs to be a committed In a recent Q&A, Larson discussed his return to the sport. It requires grassroots work — being effort and that’s what running retailers can the running industry and his efforts to propel the at events, offering spikes and so on. Today, expect from Under Armour. Photo: Under Armour/Matt Ryb running business at Under Armour. Under Armour is committed to doing just that. What has you most excited for Under Armour’s After nearly a dozen years at Brooks and some How would you characterize Under Armour’s future in the running world? time away, what attracted you to this position at potential in the running landscape? Being able to lead a team that will truly make Under Armour? I think Under Armour is one of the few brands a dent in the world of running. We won’t do I really did hang it up over a year ago. I felt I that can energize a new consumer — the status quo. We will revolutionize things. If not, had given my best to Brooks, so I retired and was millennial runner. Under Armour has big brand I’ll be selling Popsicles by the beach. going to start a new chapter doing something pull with this consumer, brings a new sense —Daniel P. Smith
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ANALYSIS PEOPLE Kicks in Chaos Burnett Joins Rack Room
By Bob McGee
Any way you look at it, 2016 has been a difficult year for the mature U.S. athletic shoe business. Multiple retail bankruptcies, fast-moving fashion trends and the ever- connected consumer have forced the major players to pivot in directions that were not required during the segment’s roaring years. The need to strike the proper balance between own retail and wholesale, the challenges fter eight years at Sports Authority and technical details associated with direct and digital and and five years at Finish Line, Brian the requisite to establish local market labs to test and fuel Burnett says he’s ready for his new future innovation are but three. A role as VP/GMM at Rack Room. Still, amid all this chaos, observers contend these actions are setting up the Burnett joined the family retailer earlier this athletic shoe business for an eventual renaissance, if you will, that will be driven and fall, succeeding industry veteran Terry Apple. nurtured, not by a single brand but three. “The landscape in the shoe business is chal- In the months since the retirement of co-founder Phil Knight, market behemoth lenging,” Burnett tells Footwear Insight. “The Nike has been rattled by mounting competition from rivals Adidas and Under consumer has access to all the information she Armour, softer order demand, cries that its R&D investments are waning, needs and can purchase shoes at any time. But innovation pipeline is drying up, and three key Wall Street stock downgrades we believe our customer also still likes to shop since June 1. The latest, on Halloween from Bank of America, was the equivalent in the store, touch and feel the product and try of a “sell” on the stock. There must be a lot of soul searching inside the berm. it on before buying.” Still, a national retailer, while admitting he has serious concerns about In his new role, Burnett will be responsible current demand for key Jordan and Converse products, insists there is plenty for the strategy behind Rack Room Shoes’ of Nike business in the marketplace. entire merchandising division, including all “Plus, in two years, Nike will be a stronger company and brand from all categories for women, men and children. In this,” this retailer opined. addition to his time at Sports Authority and That 24-month window, which takes the sneaker business into 2019, is likely Finish Line, Burnett has worked at FootAction to provide Adidas and Under Armour more opportunities to grow market and Just for Feet. He says all those experiences share, both here and abroad. But the Three Stripes, which has enjoyed a will come into play as he oversees business at phenomenal run over the last 18 months, including in the U.S. under Mark the 420 Rack Room stores, where he will have King, isn’t punch-drunk about its gains. The brand doubled its U.S. footwear to balance fashion, athletic and casual footwear market share to 10 percent for the 12 months ended September 30. for the store’s core customer: the millennial “It’s important that we continue to make sustainable progress around the mom. Adidas brand in the U.S. because not only do we need a bigger market share “Open-to-buy is always precious, but we’d position…we need a greater contribution on the bottom line, new Adidas like to be on the offense and stay trend right for Group CEO Kasper Rorsted told investors last month. our consumer and integrate style, color, selec- For its part, Under Armour is promising to grow its topline by about 50 percent tion and value,” says Burnett. to $7.5 billion in 2018 through additional investments in international markets, IT Like other retailers, Rack Room is striving to and distribution. Athletic footwear and international will be the primary focus as offer its shoppers an omni channel experience the brand aims to expand its points of distribution worldwide. O and he sees an opportunity to get the Rack Room shopper more involved online. “We’ll communicate with her more about what we offer online, but we’ll keep it simple,” says Bur- A version of this article originally appeared in the digital magazine Inside Insight. nett. “Just like in the store, we want to provide To subscribe, visit insideinsight.com the best possible experience online, too.” O
12 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com FEATURED STYLE IN PHOTO: PROFESSIONAL XP®
COMFORT AND PERFORMANCE ARE ALWAYS ON THE MENU. THEFOOTWEAREYE
RETAIL PRODUCT Mephisto Opens San Diego Store Santos Clause
Mephisto USA has opened its fifth company-owned store located at Westfield UTC in San Diego. The overall vision for this 1200-square-foot store is consistent with Mephisto’s other locations: two in Manhattan, one in Atlanta and one in Las Vegas. The store opened in early November with a number of events, including a gift with try-on, a special gift with purchase, weekly free pair giveaways during the month and a grand prize drawing for a $1000 Mephisto gift certificate. O
The new limited edition Santos Collection from Dansko.
arly next year, Dansko will begin shipping its new limited edition Santos Collection of clogs handmade in Brazil. E The shoes include hand carved and sanded wooden soles that are then flame bur- nished and stained. Individually hammered nails fasten the leather uppers to the finished soles. The shoes will retail for about $190 a pair. O
14 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com ortholite.com
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BRANDS Running On The On Running Cloudflow is billed as “a short cut to runner’s high.” By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry
n Running is looking ahead. Caspar Coppetti, co-founder of the Swiss performance running brand, says that On has seen growth rates glob- ally between 70 and 300 Opercent in 2016, nearly doubling its overall busi- ness from the year prior. And they’ve done it profitably, he added. “Our full-price and premium strategy is really paying off,” he says. According to Ted Goodlake, director of North gone into the athleisure world,” he says. “The American sales, the U.S. market in particular running specialty trade channel has always been The Swiss brand is is on pace to grow between 90 percent and our main focus and will continue to be that way.” betting on performance. 100 percent for the year. And he attributes the To that end, On is releasing two new products growth to the brand’s decision to stay focused for 2017 aimed at the serious runner. on performance. The new $139.99 Cloudflow style is designed “A lot of our competitors have veered off and as a lightweight, cushioned style with a smooth transition for easy, effortless runs — the “short cut to runner’s high,” Coppetti says. The style will be the focus of a grassroots marketing push, which kicked off with sur- prising 10 runners to switch to the style to run this month’s New York City marathon. The brand is also betting on the Cloudflash, More Grip. a racing flat designed with all the technology On could stock it with. Priced at $180, the shoe is “by far the most expensive racing flat in the market,” Coppetti says. The thinking? Less Slip. Runners willing to spend $700 on the entry fee for a triathlon or spend hundreds or more on a world marathon want the best. And On is betting that their top-tier flat, which removes Check out the the midsole to build the shoe directly on STABILicersTM Run the flex plate, and uses a resilient new EVA compound the brand is calling Zero Gravity at stabilgear.com Foam 2.0, will appeal to that consumer. “Our R&D team went all out and went crazy on the technology they were able to use,” Coppetti says. Heading into 2017, Goodlake and Coppetti are feeling optimistic. Goodlake flagged the West Coast, Southeast, and Midwest, particularly Chicago, as target markets. Coppetti says the team would be adding 10 positions to the U.S. team — part of 40 being hired globally. (The U.S. represents about 25 percent of On’s total business, he says.) The new hires will be across the board, but with a focus on adding tech reps, sales reps and customer service people to service
® anticipated growth. “We’re still scratching the surface in U.S.,” Coppetti says. “Based on futures, we think we can double the business again.” O
16 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com A Trade Show, Business Conference +Consumer Expo
Fort Lauderdale Convention Center Florida
sportstyleshow.com Images courtesy of: New Balance, Lolë, Brooks, Skechers, Timberland, Public Rec. Public Timberland, Skechers, Brooks, Lolë, Balance, New of: courtesy Images
June 14-15, 2017 June 16, 2017
Trade Show Consumer Expo Showcasing the best footwear, An opportunity for brands apparel, wearable technology to connect and interact and accessory brands. with VIP consumers. Images courtesy of: Lucy, Anatomie, Brooks, Public Rec. Rec. Public Brooks, Anatomie, Lucy, of: courtesy Images
Blending sports and style. sportstyle will attract key retail buyers The sportstyle name was chosen and executives through scholarships because it captures the strength of performance sports as well Department Stores as the lifestyle aspect of the Apparel Online Boutiques active category that is driving its Retailers expansion. The sportstyle show will include activewear, footwear, Studios accessories and technology. Independent and Shoe blending sports and style Health Stores Clubs The conference will focus on key business topics for our retail attendees. And, the addition of Athletic Sports a one day consumer expo will Footwear and Specialty Apparel Stores Stores attract VIP shoppers from South Sporting Goods 036-(%T7%'8-:)A%*ç9)281%6/)8@ Stores Trade Show June 14 - 15, 2017 Consumer Expo June 16, 2017 Showcasing the best footwear, Connect and interact with apparel, wearable technology VIP Consumers in one of the and accessory brands country’s top markets
Breakfast Speakers Seminars Demos Celebrity Athlete Appearances Receptions Fashion Show Networking Consumer Expo and Shopping Tie-in with Runner’s Depot gymstyle trailstyle runstyle walkstyle sockstyle streetstyle sneakerstyle lifestyle blending sports and style
trade show: june 14-15, 2017 sportstyle consumer expo: june 16, 2017 the show
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Jeff Nott Sam Selvaggio Christina Henderson Mark Sullivan [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 516-305-4711 212-398-5021 516-305-4712 646-319-7878
Troy Leonard Katie O’Donohue Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 352-624-1561 828-244-3043 404-849-4156 THEFOOTWEAREYE
GIVING BACK Skechers Walks for The Friendship Circle
or company president Michael Greenberg, the Skechers’ 2016 Skechers Foundation’s involvement with the Friendship Walk raised more than annual Pier to Pier Friendship Walk is very $1.6 million for personal. This year The Friendship Walk, The Friendship held in Skechers’ hometown of Manhattan Circle. Beach, attracted 12,000 walkers and raised $1.6 million for The Friendship Circle, a charity that works on bringing children and Fadults with special needs into the mainstream by providing companionship and support to the individuals and their families. “When I was in the third grade, the teachers came into our classroom and said they needed students to help kids get around school in their wheelchairs,” Greenberg says. “My hand went up to volunteer and I was always happy to do it. And as I got older the idea of helping these kids and their families continued to resonate with me.” Over the past eight years, The Skechers Foundation has helped The Pier to Pier Walk raise a total of $7 million. The walk began in 2009 with 1800 walkers and raised $220,000. Over the years, the event has included more participants and sponsors, including Nickelodeon, retailers Skechers does business with such as Off Broadway, WSS, Modell’s and Zappos, and some Southern California-based businesses.
“The support from everyone has allowed us to build this event,” Greenberg says, “and really see what The Friend- ship Circle has accomplished.” Greenberg says he has ob- served that “there are fewer barriers for kids with special needs when The Friendship Circle is involved. You’re seeing families get involved by taking kids with special needs to the beach or the movies or a ballgame and that makes a great difference in their lives.” 2016 marks the second year The Skechers Foundation will oversee a scholarship program and Greenberg says the company’s joint venture partner in Shanghai is looking to start a similar event in its hometown. “We’d love to see this event grow so we can help The Friendship Circle here in our own community, but also around the world.” O Photos: Skechers / Will Hartman – Desert Rose Photography
Adidas Accelerates Parley Ocean Project
AN APRIL 2015 PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN ADIDAS AND PARLEY FOR THE Oceans takes another step forward this month with the introduction of 7000 pairs of the UltraBoost Uncaged Parley running shoes ($200 retail), the first mass-produced footwear using Parley Ocean Plastic. The Uncaged Parley was created with new technologies engineered to upcycle marine plastic debris into technical yarn fibers. Each new running shoe re-uses 11 plastic bottles in production of its Primeknit upper mixed with plastic waste retrieved in the Maldives and five percent recycled polyester. With a design inspired by ocean waves, the style also has shoe laces, heel cap base material, webbing, lining and a sock-liner cover made Adidas with recycled materials. Adidas senior executives say the company is UltraBoost committed to scaling its initiatives with Parley Ocean Plastic and will make Uncaged Parley shoes one million pairs of shoes in 2017 using materials collected by the group re-use 11 that wants widespread implementation of policy that aims to end the cycle plastic bottles of marine plastic pollution long-term. O in production.
footwearinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 21 RUNANALYSIS
Reset on the Running Business
they sell their shoes everywhere includ- ing their own websites, run stores need to make smarter buys. Clearly, the industry was overbuilt. Vendors are trying to deal with it by reduc- ing the number of accounts they sell to and the number of reps they have serving accounts. This is a delicate balance. Most stores will tell you they need more attention and service from brands, not less, and will gravitate to the brands that support them with great product and service. This leads to our next point, which is…
Brand Leadership Opportunity Brands have played a critical role in the rocket ride of run specialty. They have backed the channel with great product and marketing support. They do this not out of By Mark Sullivan experienced consolidation with Fleet Feet The good the goodness of their hearts, but because and The Running Specialty Group snapping news is they can make money selling through this fter nine months of ups and up stores, but that consolidation is small that the channel and because run stores are a great downs, the run specialty potatoes compared to what is happening running place to build brands. Vendors need to market could be bouncing in other retail channels. Macy’s is closing shoe remember this. If they engage in practices A back. By all accounts October 100 stores in 2017, about 15 percent of its silhouette that harm the specialty run channel, the was a solid month across the channel fleet. Finish Line will close 25 percent of all is the most golden goose may not die, but it will get and many see it as a sign that the running its stores over the next four years. Sports popular sick. And run retailers need to support market is moving back into growth mode. Authority closed 460 stores. Sport Chalet footwear innovative product and new brands. An In our annual state of the market report, shuttered 47. City Sports shut 26. So, the style on executive of a major shoe brand suggested Footwear Insight looks at the factors influ- running channel may be losing some doors, the planet. recently that if Vibram or Hoka were launch- encing the market as it heads into 2017. who are not well capitalized or well man- The bad ing today that they’d have trouble getting aged. But it’s doing way better than the news is shelf space. What he neglected to point The Big Picture other guys. Interestingly, the run channel that every out is that when those brands launched a The good news is that the running shoe may be the last man standing in the battle retailer on number of years ago, they did indeed have silhouette is the most popular footwear for running shoe sales to consumers. trouble getting placement. Early adapters the planet style on the planet. The bad news is that such as Boulder Running and Playmakers every retailer on the planet knows this and What Will it Take to Prosper? knows carried these brands from the outset and is carrying running shoes. This has led to The era of steady double-digit growth is this and is were able to provide newness to their cus- market saturation, particularly at mid-range gone. It will be replaced by an era where carrying tomers that they couldn’t find elsewhere. price points. That, combined with a lack of the best stores focus on better management running Stores would be smart to make space for a breakthrough product innovation by ven- practices, especially inventory management shoes. the next innovative product out there. The dors, has driven a market slowdown that and cost control. A few years ago, stores business is in need of the next big thing or some say was a few years overdue. “We could grow their bottom line by growing the at least a few next small things and open were headed in this direction a few years top line. In a slow growth environment, cost minds at retail are key to incubating that. ago, but then the minimal movement came controls will be essential and the stores Beyond product development, brands along and that sparked a ton of interest in that do it best will be the winners. Stores have another opportunity to lead by bring- running shoes and that was great for spe- also need to look in less obvious places to ing consumers into stores. Run stores are cialty stores,” Jeff Phillips, CEO of Fleet Feet grow sales. Apparel and accessories must in need of younger consumers and brands told Footwear Insight recently. “Now that be an area of focus. And run stores need to such as Under Armour, Puma and Nike minimal has quieted down, we are where diversify away from shoes that are widely have the resources and cachet to draw in we might have been a few years ago.” distributed. Rather than bitch that top-sell- younger running consumers. Under Armour Where we are is in a big flat market with ing shoes are available everywhere, run created the modern performance apparel more retailers trying to take bites out of a stores need to carry brands and styles that business. Puma is crushing it in sneaker- pie that is not growing. To stick with the are “special” to them. In the coming years head shops with a line built around the food metaphor, the running business is in that could mean offering their customers singer Rihanna. Young women are waiting a digestion phase, letting out a big burp collaborations, custom uppers and brands on line before shops open to buy the shoes. after more than a decade of steady double- that are not sold everywhere. Brands will It would be great if any brand can create digit growth. The run retail market has also need to take their medicine here. If that level of excitement for running stores.
22 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com Selling Energy
Beyond the Hype: How Should Retailers Promote Energy-Return in Shoes?
Innovation Please Go into your closet and look at your favorite running shoes from five years ago and then 10 if you save them for that long. Now look at your current shoes. The design differences are most likely star- tling. Running shoes today are sleek and architectural in design, which makes them perfect not only for running but other fit- ness activities and casual use, too. Nike deserves a great deal of credit for this. While other brands were messing around with toning shoes, they were develop- ing the next generation of running shoes. Nike’s innovation with Flyknit and other upper designs has changed the look of running shoes forever. But what’s next? Innovation from Nike and other brands has slowed and Nike CEO Mark Parker admits the Swoosh will have to develop the next breakthrough product to achieve its ambitious growth targets. The same holds true for the running category in general. Innovation does not need to be focused strictly on product development. Innovation can be about customization, speed to market and process. The big win will come if it is about all of these.
Inventory Issues An invisible factor in the market right now is inventory. The running market has had to work through a ton of inventory over this past year. When Sports Authority and City Sports liquidated this year, consumers Boost led the move into energy-return technology in footwear. gobbled up lots of running shoes at bargain basement prices. Footwear Insight observed one runner who gobbled up four pairs of Saucony Guides for $50 a pair. Based on By Jonathan Beverly scientists and designers from every company that, this consumer will not buy shoes in all agree that no one can contradict the laws a run store for at least a year. And there n the beginning was Boost. Now everybody of thermodynamics. No material or machine are most likely thousands of other runners is getting into new midsole materials that can return more energy than put in. There is who stocked up in a similar manner. The promise more than cushioning. Brand always some energy lost in each footfall. As inventory from those stores has washed I advertisements suggest that the shoes are Eric Fruth, co-owner of the Columbus Running through the system. We don’t know what a power supply: “Endless supply of light, fast Company says, “No shoe is going to do the impact it will have on sales going forward, energy,” says one. “Energy in. More energy out,” running for you.” which increases the urgency on brands to promises another. The term “energy-return” comes from mea- create new innovative shoes and for retail- Is the trend toward energy-return materials surements that show that these new foams ers to make way for that product on their simply another marketing ploy or are there true lose less energy than equivalent materials. shelves. The great unknown factor is how benefits for the runner? As more companies get While they still dissipate roughly 30 percent much inventory is sitting in the stock rooms on the energy-return bandwagon, customers are of the energy sunk into the shoe, these materi- of retailers and how much inventory certain asking, “What is it all about?” says Victor Orne- als bounce back 15–25 percent stronger than brands are dumping into closeout channels. las, senior franchise support manager for Fleet traditional EVA midsoles. The channel won’t really be able to start Feet. “If there are benefits, how can we best com- That sounds good, getting back more energy, rolling until the inventory gets down to municate to the runner what they are getting?” but the question remains whether it is useful acceptable levels, which we estimate will be once returned. Running is a complex interac- in Spring 2017, just around the time it starts No Free Lunch tion of forces, levers and moving parts. “Basi- getting warm out. O One thing is clear, marketing aside, cally, these materials are designed to store footwearinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 23 RUNTRENDS
and return elastic energy,” says Simon component among many. Bartold thinks Bartold, podiatrist and shoe consultant, this might be the best solution at the now with Salomon. “But if you’ve got a moment. “Some materials are better at foot that’s functioning reasonably well, shock attenuation, other materials are the structures in the foot are going to better at vibration dampening, and other do that superbly anyway.” are much better at rebound or resil- Biomechanical researcher Benno Nigg ience,” Bartold says. “You need a combi- says that in order for that energy to nation of all those things in a midsole.” be applied to your stride, it has to be Jim Monahan, president of 361 Degrees returned at the right time, the right fre- USA, whose shoes combine layers of quency and the right location. “We have rubber-infused Qu!ckfoam with tradi- measured and the energy dissipation is Saucony’s Freedom ISO tional EVA, says, “It’s a matter of finding a less,” Nigg says about the new foams. features Everun tech, which blend that does provide a feeling of being “But it doesn’t return at the right time.” “bounces back quickly.” soft, but then sets back up and addresses that same feel in the next footfall. It’s Good Feelings more about feeling and durability of that Just because the shoe doesn’t magi- Spencer White, VP of Saucony’s Human material.” cally propel you doesn’t mean it doesn’t Performance & Innovation Lab, explains Apart from physics and feel, this work, however. Runners like how the how the brand’s “Topsole” performs this extra durability is one other benefit that new materials feel underfoot. dual feat. “Forefoot cushioning is not energy-return materials appear to offer, Fruth says some customers do come about absorbing energy,” White says. which Ornelas points out is a particularly in, having heard the term “energy- “Because we want you to generate force nice selling point given rising shoe prices. return,” and expect something magi- so you can move. We’re taking the force cal. “What we’re seeing is, it doesn’t you push into the ground and trying to The Differentiation Factor necessarily have the feel they expect,” spread it over more of the bottom of All of this may be over the head he says. “But once they experience it, a the shoe by making it conform to the and largely irrelevant to many of your lot of people are moving toward those shape of your foot.” The advantage customers. “Your average weekend materials and shoes.” of their Everun material is that, after warrior may not be as concerned Even the scientists acknowledge this. conforming, it bounces back quickly with energy-return as with straight-up “We don’t know why it feels right,” says and allows you to push against it. And, cushion,” says Fruth. Your average Nigg. “Every test showed less energy because it keeps bouncing back reliably, person wants to know, “Is this shoe going demand than a comparison shoe. Every over the run and the life of the shoe, to provide extra cushion because my shoe showed more comfort than a com- they can accomplish this with a thin, shin hurts?” parison shoe. The facts are clear; this is soft layer close to the foot. Even for these runners, however, fantastic. Why it is, nobody knows.” One way to visualize what all energy- Ornelas likes having another way to We may not be able to explain it, but return materials do is to look at the pods talk about cushioning. “It’s more a way runners can describe it. “A lot of them on the outsole of On shoes. “I do not be- to highlight a product,” he says. You are picking it because they find it com- lieve in energy return in running shoes,” can point out that the texture is a bit bines that cushy, protective feel that so Olivier Bernhard, co-founder of On, different, and talk about the material. many runners enjoy, with that perfor- states very clearly, citing Nigg’s work. “We’ve got this technology, here’s what mance-driven, responsive feel that you But what the shoes accomplish is the “We don’t makes it a bit different, how pellets used to get mostly from a lightweight same as what the proponents of the new know why it interact to give you a more lively, trainer or racing flat,” Fruth says. foams claim. “We call it energy transi- feels right. responsive experience.” tion,” Bernhard says. “It is about absorb- Every test As the shoe world moves away from Double Duty ing energy upon landing, then making showed traditional control categories, retailers This combination is exactly what the sure the runner has a swift push-off.” less energy appreciate ways to differentiate between shoe designers are looking for. “In the Note that this all happens in the demand products. “It’s less about, ‘Here’s how it past, responsiveness usually ended up forefoot. “Most people need cushioning than a will control the foot or manage the foot,’” and energy absorption in the heel, and says Ornelas. “More about, ‘Here’s what being firmness, because it allowed you comparison to propel faster and more quickly off energy return is not important,” says you’ll feel: livelier, bouncier. Here’s what the midsole,” says Chris Brewer, run- Martyn Shorten, a shoe researcher who shoe. the experience is like.’ More importantly, ning category director for Adidas. But runs the Biomechanica lab in Portland, Every shoe let’s get it on your foot, and you can tell the forefoot also receives the majority OR. “The forefoot is the platform for showed what is comfortable.” of impact forces in the stride, regard- propulsion, so stiffness and resilience more That personal comfort – does it feel less of where on the foot you land, so are more important there.” Bartold and comfort right for you? – is not only the key many runners want and need cushion- Nigg agree, pointing out that not only than a to selling, but as Nigg’s research has ing up front as well. Energy-return ma- is the timing of the energy-return more comparison shown, the best way to find the most terials, by compressing then bouncing likely to be appropriate in the forefoot, shoe. The appropriate shoe for the customer. “Our back, are able to provide both respon- but it is where it could make a difference. facts are staff will bring up the concept of energy- siveness and cushioning. “A lot of the “While you take off, you can lose energy,” clear; this return, and explain it,” says Fruth. initial problem is solved by having a Nigg says. is fantastic. “But for the most part, we’re going to material which does these two things You’ll see a few “pure” energy-return Why it is, get it on someone’s foot and let them that were mutually exclusive for a long, midsoles, but most companies are put- nobody experience it for themselves. The proof long time,” Brewer says. ting these materials into shoes as one knows.” is right there.” O
24 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com MADE FOR WOMEN. BECAUSE YOUR FEET ARE DIFFERENT THAN HIS: • narrower heel • increased instep volume • roomier forefoot • more secure footbed
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THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
he term “Shoe Dog” is used with both reverence and respect. A Shoe Dog is an industry veteran who has lived the busi- ness and made a lasting contribution through one or more jobs. Shoe Dogs love product and love the gritty details of the business. A sales rep who becomes a product developer and then a sales manager, can be a Shoe Dog. A CPG execu- tive who once sold cake mix and then joins a shoe company can be wildly successful, but can never be a Shoe Dog. Shoe Dogs cross all categories — from athletic to brown shoe. Shoe Dogs come in different breeds. The most popular breeds of Shoe Dogs are: • A Shepherd who rounds up people and ideas to create something. T• A Pit Bull. Tough and dogged. • A Blood Hound who sniffs out great ideas and trends. But as in real life, the best in class combine some traits from each breed. Here is Footwear Insight’s report on the Greatest Shoe Dogs of all time. Think we missed anyone? Disagree with what we wrote? Throw us a bone and tweet your thoughts to senior editor Bob McGee @InInsightF4M.
TOP DOGS: THE MOUNT RUSHMORE OF SHOE DOGS
Q Phil Knight, Nike
Knight self-deprecatingly used “Shoe Dog” as the title of his autobiography published earlier this year and it was a fitting choice. Knight created the modern shoe business and established athletic as the silhouette for everyone from European designers to coffee house hipsters. Nike is a $32 billion company, but Knight’s greatest contribution may have been raising the bar for innovation that others continue to try and reach and exceed.
Q Jim Davis, New Balance
Davis is not just a Top Shoe Dog. He is an American suc- cess story. The son of Greek immigrants, he bought New Balance in 1972, when it was a six-person enterprise, and has presided over its growth as a $4 billion compa- Illustration by Charlie Powell ny that also owns Warrior, PF Flyers and Dunham, and is a partner in Rockport. Impressively, Davis has managed to keep the company private, which has allowed him to run it as he sees fit, including producing four million of
November/December 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 27 THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
his company’s shoes annually in plants into Newton Running. Five months later, Q Roberto Muller in the United States. the private equity firm sold its stake in premium all-natural juice maker In his more than Q Horst Dassler, Adidas Evolution Fresh to Starbucks. 45-year career Sticking to a food investment theme, in the sporting Dassler is one in March 2014, FCP acquired a majority goods and athletic of the founding stake in Surfside Coffee Company, footwear business, fathers of the the largest Dunkin’ Donuts franchise Muller has created athletic shoe network in Florida with, at the time, and led multiple business and at 38 stores in and around Fort Myers, shoe brands and this writing his Miami and the Florida Keys. There sports companies beloved Adidas were plans to develop a minimum of and been involved in the player three stripes 23 additional Dunkin’ doors across the endorsement arena. The South brand is enjoying region. Interestingly, one of Reebok’s American, fluent in four languages, got another renaissance. Dassler was the largest endorsers during Fireman’s his start at Levi Strauss in 1972. He modern master of sports marketing reign over Reebok, Shaquille O’Neal, was the founder and CEO of the Pony who understood complicated global recently acquired a Krispy Kreme store athletic shoe brand in 1972 that he partnerships and the fact that $100 bills in Atlanta. sold 14 years later. He also founded the in the shoes of athletes would win their Ewing sneaker label named after for endorsement for at least one night. Q Jon Epstein, Fila the former Georgetown and New York Knick center. However, Muller’s biggest Q Robert Greenberg, Skechers Epstein fell in love play in the athletic shoe business world with the shoe came between 1990 and 1995 when he For anyone who business as a high led Reebok International and made a doubts Greenberg’s school student and serious bid to become the segment’s place on Shoe Dog after working his top brand again, telling analysts at a Mount Rushmore, way up to national 1993 Super Show dinner, “We must finish we offer a simple sales manager at ahead of Nike. We must want to win. We explanation. He has Adidas USA left to must really want to win.” done something no become president At the time, Reebok reportedly trailed other individual in of Fila, where he has spent the past 18 Nike by six share points and $400 the athletic shoe years, excepting a brief leave of absence million in annual sales. industry has ever accomplished — after being ensnared in the Just for For the last two years, Muller, who starting two companies from scratch, Feet meltdown. Epstein has proven earlier in his career founded and sold building them to nearly or above $1 a superb merchant and dealmaker the sports network now known as Fox billion in annual sales and taking each on both a small and grand scale. He Deportes, has served as a senior advisor public. With LA Gear, Greenberg was played a crucial role in Fila’s $1.2 billion to the CEO of VIKTRE, said to be the one of the first to realize the value of purchase of Acushnet in 2011. And globe’s largest athlete-focused media celebrity endorsers such as Paula Abdul although he caught some flack at the platforms. and Michael Jackson. With Skechers, time, his program with Kohl’s looks like Greenberg has elevated his game to a a shrewd move. Q Rick Mina higher level and has shown consistent growth. No one is better at reading and Q Floyd Huff, Foot Locker A Shoe Dog interpreting trends and bringing them to with more than market quickly in a commercially viable The longtime Kinney Shoe executive for three decades of way for retailers and consumers. parent F.W. Woolworth would spearhead experience, Mina the meteoric growth of an athletic successfully turned Q Paul Fireman, Reebok specialty concept called Foot Locker around the Champs to more than 1000 stores. As the first Sports’ business for A decade beyond president of Foot Locker, he forged key parent Foot Locker his $3.8 billion sale relationships with all the major athletic in the early 2000s of Reebok to the shoe brands for the New York company as its president and CEO. He would Adidas Group and and saw the business grow to become follow that experience up with a half nearly 35 years Woolworth/Venator’s strongest business decade as president and CEO of Foot after introducing by 2000. In November 2001, Venator Locker, Inc., overseeing the New York the first women’s changed its corporate name to Foot retailer’s Foot Locker/Kids Foot Locker, only athletic shoe, Locker, Inc. Huff is also remembered for Lady Foot Locker and Champs units. Fireman, 72, is busy trying to launch In the Zone, a private More recently, he has worked in private leading his private equity firm, Fireman label basketball brand within Foot equity and helmed Southern California Capital Partners, into all sorts of new Locker to compete with Nike and other action sports specialty chain Active businesses. His first, in 2009, was a stake brands. ITZ signed Bobby Hurley, then Ride Shop as a stakeholder president. in Los Angeles-based Hudson Jeans. Two a rookie out of Duke, as its marquee Since November 2015, Mina has served years later, in June 2011, FCP made its endorser, but after Hurley was badly as the president of WSS, the California sixth investment by sinking $20 million injured in a car crash, the line fizzled. urban specialty footwear retailer.
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THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
Q Jacques Lavertue, Merrell December 2005, worth was pegged was oft referred to at $1.75 billion The Canadian-born Lavertue was the “P.T. Barnum” earlier this year, instrumental in building Merrell into the of the specialty got his start in global powerhouse it is today. He gets retail during JFF’s the shoe business credit for the iconic Jungle Moc design meteoric rise to by working in the and oversaw Merrell from $27 million in become second- Liverpool (England) sales to more than $450 million before largest athletic Shoe Company that passing away in 2007. footwear chain was started by his in the U.S. behind Foot Locker. The parents, Berko and Minnie Rubin. At Q Bob Infantino, Rockport Group eventual 140-door chain’s seemingly 32, following the death of his father, he endless product pipeline made many would become chairman. Infantino got vendors very happy and very rich. Until But his road to riches in the shoe his start in the he couldn’t pay them. Investors too were industry was his August 1981 decision business at pleased and enriched by the Birmingham, to take a 55 percent stake in a fledging his hometown AL, company’s 1994 IPO. But the run Reebok for $77,500. Within three years, retailer Altier’s only lasted for half a decade until a that investment was generating 70 in Rochester, NY. controversial 1999 Super Bowl ad followed percent of Pentland’s annual revenues. He gets credit by an accounting scandal and a Chapter In 1991, Pentland cashed out of Reebok for being one of 11 bankruptcy filing 10 months later. for $770 million. the first retailers Nonetheless, there is no mistaking Today, a now privately held to ever buy Rockport shoes and later that Ruttenberg’s retail “Greatest Pentland, led by Rubin’s son and joined the company where he headed Show on Earth” with its in-store company CEO, Andrew, has a up product and marketing. Infantino entertainment, video monitors, brand portfolio of 16 sporting goods and then left Rockport for Clarks Companies concept shops and concession stands footwear brands that includes Ellesse, before launching Drydock Footwear. were ahead of their time and brought KangaROOS, Hunter boots, Mitre, Pro Infantino re-united with the Rockport “sizzle” to the segment. Star and Ted Baker Footwear. Brand in 2015 as part of The Rockport Relentless and a showman until Group under the joint ownership of the end, the native South African’s Q Wayne Weaver Boston-based private equity firm, final retail concept would be a multi- Berkshire Partners, and New Balance restaurant, executive car wash and This first owner Holdings, an investment arm of the 15-minute photo processing lab of the NFL’s athletic footwear company. business under a single roof. Jacksonville Jaguars has spent Q Bruce Katz, Rockport and Q Bill Bowerman, Nike nearly half of his Samuel Hubbard Shoe Co. life in the footwear The University industry. Weaver, Katz has true of Oregon track 81, who began his Shoe Dog lineage, and field coach career as a shoe growing up working for 24 years and salesman, is currently Jacksonville’s in his grandfather’s self-described richest person with a net worth of factory in New tinkerer co-founded approximately $870 million, according Hampshire. In 1973 Nike with Phil to Forbes. when the factory Knight. A dozen His resume in the shoe industry is closed, Katz and years after he an impressive one. Since 1988, he has his father began began handcrafting shoes for athletes, served as chairman of publicly traded sourcing shoes in Brazil with the idea Bowerman did two things that helped Shoe Carnival. For the last 21 years, that shoes could be comfortable and shape the running movement of the Weaver has been CEO of LC Footwear dressy at the same time. The idea 1970s and change the way running and chairman and CEO of Liz Claiborne turned into Rockport and Katz and his shoe cushioning would be perceived Shoes. Previously, for 15 years ending father are credited with launching the forever. In 1967, he wrote and published in 1993, he was co-owner, president and modern American comfort business. “Jogging,” which sold millions of copies. CEO of Nine West Group. Additionally, The family sold Rockport to Reebok. Four years later, Bowerman poured he served as a director of retailer Stein But inspired by his daughter’s curiosity rubber into his wife’s waffle iron to Mart for seven years, ending in April about the shoe business, Katz launched help give birth to the modern distance- 2008. He serves the footwear industry Samuel Hubbard several years ago, running shoe. He estimated that every as chairman of the Fashion Footwear proving that the idea of mixing comfort ounce shaved off a miler’s shoe was 200 Association of New York. and style is still a good one. fewer pounds lifted in a race. Bowerman passed away in December Q Tony Post, Rockport, Vibram Q Harold Ruttenberg, Just For Feet 1999. He was 88. FiveFingers and Topo Athletic
This founder of the Just For Feet Q (Robert) Stephen Rubin Post has a long list of accomplishments athletic footwear and apparel chain in the shoe business, but he will always who succumbed to brain cancer at 63 in Rubin, the 79-year old Brit whose net be “the guy who ran The 1990 New
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THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
York Marathon in Hatfield, who as a store manager Rockport dress ran track at and regional buyer. shoes.” In fact, Oregon for Nike In the early 1960s, he ran the 1992 co-founder and he would move to London Marathon fellow Shoe Dog Bill Kinney’s parent in them, too. Post Bowerman, started F.W. Woolworth and was the right at the company in travel the globe as guy for the times 1981 but did not developing director at Rockport, begin designing of footwear. helping drive the brand’s growth under shoes until four years later. In 1993 Helped and encouraged by the likes Reebok ownership. Post was CEO at and 1996, he was named one of the of Cam Anderson, the founder of Foot Vibram when the Italian outsole maker most influential people in business by Locker, and Harvey Levy of Pagoda introduced a funny looking foot glove Sportstyle. Fortune hailed Hatfield as one International, he would start BBC originally created for use as a boat of the “100 Most Influential Designers of International in 1975. Today, the Boca shoe. A former collegiate runner, Post the 20th Century.” Raton, FL company owns footwear ran in the shoes and discovered he was One of Hatfield’s more recent non- licenses for 20 brands, including Cole landing lighter on his feet and running shoe design projects was creating Nike Haan, Heelys and Marvel. without the usual aches and pains. The and Jordan brand concept cars for the Away from work, Campbell is involved Vibram FiveFinger became the “it” shoe racing video game “Gran Turismo” in in the local community, including the in the running category and Post left 2013. Boca Historical Society and Museum to launch ToPo with the backing of a and the regional hospital foundation, California financial company. Q The Fendells — Yale, Bruce & Harris and industry as an executive board member of the American Apparel Q Jim Issler The Fendells are & Footwear Association, Footwear a family of Shoe Distributors and Retailers of America Issler is clearly a Dogs with multiple and Fashion Footwear Association “Brown” Shoe Dog. connections to the of New York. He was elected into the He began his 40- Three Stripes. Yale, Footwear Industry Hall of Fame in 2003. plus year footwear who died in 1991 at industry career at the age of 67, was a Q Mark Lardie, Rack Room Brown Group in St. partner with friend Louis in the mid- Ralph Libonati for The current 1970s. Less than approximately 30 president and CEO a decade later, he years. The duo of family footwear joined the H.H. Brown Shoe Company in started out as a chain Rack Room New York, where he eventually became New Jersey sales Shoes and its the youngest president and CEO in the agency selling fashion-forward firm’s history and helped transform multiple lines of counterpart, Off it from primarily a rugged outdoor sporting goods, Broadway Shoe footwear vendor to today’s worldwide uniforms and Warehouse, knows distributor of more than 24 brands athletic footwear shoe retailing. His 20-plus years of owned by Warren Buffett’s Berkshire until 1971 when Libco was formed. executive leadership has included Hathaway. For the next 15 years, the firm was the stops at Sportmart, The Athlete’s Foot, Over the last nine years, Issler’s exclusive Eastern U.S. distributor for Footaction, Just For Feet and Famous F.A.C.E. (Footwear Association Charity Adidas. Subsequently, Ralph and Yale Footwear. Event) has raised over $9 million for spent about four years working for the At the 90-plus door Rack Room, a relief charities across China. His trade Adidas-owned Pony brand and Horst subsidiary of Germany’s Deichmann affiliations include: vice chairman of Dassler. Group, Lardie oversaw the chain’s 2014 FFANY, membership on the Harvard Bruce, who used to work summers for move into e-commerce and he has School of Public Health’s Advisory his Dad from 1975, began a seven-year been spearheading the banner’s two- Board and chairman of the Footwear career at Adidas in 1996. He is currently year old strategy to open The Athletic Distributors and Retailers Association a SVP for West Coast footwear specialty Shop, a shop-in-shop format that was Executive Committee. He is also on the retailer WSS. His son, Harris, is today a introduced earlier this year. board of the Two Ten Foundation. key account manager for Adidas. The Goldbergs, Harry’s Shoes Q Tinker Hatfield, Nike Q Robert Campbell, BBC International Harold, Joseph and Robert of Harry’s This Nike designer extraordinaire, 64, For Campbell, 78, the founder and CEO Shoes are the family members who has created 27 Air Jordan versions of BBC International, his life as a “Shoe have led their Upper West Side retail during his illustrious career for The Dog” began as a part-time staffer at a institution for the past 85 years. The Swoosh. His recent highly publicized Detroit area Kinney Shoe store when business was founded in the Bronx by project was Nike’s HyperAdapt 1.0 self- he was a high school junior and made grandfather Harold in 1931, moving lacing shoe that was introduced earlier $35 a week. He rose through the ranks to the Upper West Side in 1975. Son this fall. at Kinney during his early career, first Joseph, beloved by his customers and
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THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
employees alike, was active up until Throw out the old rules that don’t make Kahan, 55, is credited with conceiving several weeks before his death at 83 in sense and launching the “Macy’s Athletic March, 2012. Get out of the comfort zone Club,” one of the first shop-in-shops in Son Robert, 53, called his father “a true Go to the front of the fight the retailer that carried athletic shoes, ambassador and visionary of the footwear And stay there. licensed team apparel and accessories. industry,” who mentored other workers From there, he shifted to the vendor in their profession. “He gave principles to Q Glenn Bennett, Adidas side, first in sales and management at live our lives by that guide the ways we Nike before moving on to Reebok North act and treat other people,” the youngest One of the two Americans (Eric Liedtke America. Before taking his current Goldberg told a local paper. is the other) on Adidas Group’s five- position, he spent nearly three years in Six months after the passing of “Joe person Executive Board, Bennett, 53, the trade show business as president of G,” Harry’s Shoes opened an expanded is currently responsible for global the ENK Footwear Group. Kahan’s most store of 6500-square feet, up from operations. He will celebrate his 20th popular achievement in the business 2800-square feet, that featured new year on the panel in March 2017. This may well be his decision earlier this display walls and tables, a salon-style Three-Striped Shoe Dog with a computer year to not sell to Amazon.com women’s section, larger selection science degree has been associated of bridge and designer shoes and with the German company’s brands Q Michael Jordan expanded stockroom. for 30 years, starting as a 20-year-old Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Btyan Horowitz Robert and his sister, Randi, run at Reebok. So he has a perspective on No professional Harry’s, which has oft been touted the company’s evolution like not many athlete has had for its selection of comfort lines from others. His comment on Adidas: “Change a more profound Merrell, Clarks and Rockport, its is inevitable in just about everything we impact on the attentive service and mission to keep do in our company.” athletic shoe key styles in stock. industry and a more Robert, like his Dad, brings his Q Steven Nichols powerful impact as personal passion to the family business an endorser than every day. But he admits he takes Nichols, 73, had completed 50 years in MJ, who donned almost an academic approach that the shoe business when he retired in Converse and Adidas basketball kicks has him striving to increase his (shoe) 2013 following the merger of K-Swiss while a college player at North Carolina. knowledge every day whether it be the Inc. with South Korea-based E.Land The global-reaching Jordan Brand, more product itself or consumer trends. World Ltd. Half of his footwear industry than a decade after #23’s retirement and career was spent as president, CEO and 30 years since its inception, is closing in Q Rob Strasser chairman of K-Swiss, a brand started on $3 billion in annual sales. in 1966 started by two Swiss brothers It’s been nearly 24 who had a keen interest in tennis. Q Blake Mycoskie, TOMS years since “Rolling For 17 years, Nichols was an officer Thunder,” as he for Nicholas Foot Form Corp. which This 37-year old was affectionately operated a chain of retail footwear fly fisherman, called, left the stores in New York. From there, he entrepreneur and industry and the would move on to become the president surfer doesn’t world by dying of of the Stride Rite Retail Corp., the then call himself CEO a heart attack at largest branded children’s shoe chain in at TOMS, but the tender age of the U.S., before ascending to president rather Chief Shoe 46. The massive man, who could “out of VP of merchandise for the former Giver. He founded sweat” any athlete without leaving his Stride Rite Corp. the Los Angeles chair was a lawyer by trade who was for-profit company and his “One for once called “Nike’s MVP” by Phil Knight. Q David Kahan One” business model a decade ago by In 1985, with Reebok and the aerobics divesting his online driver education phenomena booming, Strasser, a Nike The CEO of company. His concept has inspired marketing guru, convinced a young Birkenstock in the other corporations to adopt similar Michael Jordan to dump his Converse USA since 2013, models. basketball shoes and helped create who subsequently TOMS’ footwear is based on the signature Air Jordan brand that added brand the simple slip-on canvas shoe he had skyrocketed $2.7 billion in annual responsibility for discovered during a 2002 visit to revenues a decade after number 23 the entire Americas, Argentina as a contestant on The retired from the NBA. began his shoe Amazing Race. He commenced selling Later in his career, Strasser teamed industry career as the shoes, called alpargatas, for up with creative partner at Nike, Peter a part-time shoe department associate TOMS in May 2006 and sold 10,000 Moore, to help revive the fortunes of the for a Macy’s while a college student in pairs in the first six months. Free Adidas brand in North America. upstate New York. Subsequently, he was footwear has been distributed in A verse on Strasser’s gravestone sums accepted into the department store’s Argentina, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Haiti, up his business acumen: executive training program, rising to Mexico, Rwanda, South Africa and The way ahead is clear become Macy’s first dedicated athletic the U.S. over the last decade. In 2011, Be honest about the battlefield footwear buyer. Mycoskie expanded the “One for One”
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concept at TOMS to eyewear. He sold half decade, with his keen flair for design, nationwide, of his 100-percent stake in TOMS to Bain he grew his publicly traded company to Libonati became Capital in August 2014 for a reported $625 $1.41 billion in revenues in fiscal year president of million. 2015 from less than $400 million in in Pony. His son 2005. He is featured in the 2013 Martin Steve carries on Q The Van Dorens, Vans Scorsese film “The Wolf of Wall Street.” his dad’s legacy with an American The ultimate “Shoe Dog” family, pioneers Q Jerry Turner distributor in U.S. canvas shoe manufacturing, that has been began in 1946 when dad Paul Van Doren Turner is oft instrumental in establishing Blundstone, started working for Randy’s, a Randolph, credited with El Naturalista and other brands in the MA, shoe company that made canvas developing many United States. basketball shoes for Boston Celtics legend of the technologies and Hall of Famer Bob Cousy. Paul, a high used in running Q Michael Spillane school dropout with a penchant for the shoes while he horses and the shoe business, quit his and his brother-in- Considered position as executive VP of Randy’s to law ran Brooks in by some to be start his own shoe brand and factory in the 1970s. One of eventual “Air” Anaheim. these was the introduction of EVA foam apparent to Nike Van Doren Rubber Company was born midsoles. In the early 1980s he would CEO Mark Parker, March 1, 1966 with Paul, his brother Jim, launch Turntec, the first brand in a this Shoe Dog and the machinist and tinkerer who made portfolio that would become American former Polartec molds for the brand’s outsoles in his Sporting Goods. When the 1957 Wharton and Malden Mills’ garage, and two friends as partners in graduate sold ASG in February 2011 to senior executive the Anaheim, CA, business. The brothers, Brown Shoe Company for $145 million, has had a meteoric rise as a soldier for who did not want to be at the mercy he had clocked more than a half-century The Swoosh. He has been promoted by of wholesalers and retailers, opted to in the shoe business. Parker five times since joining Nike in make the shoes and sell them directly to 2006 as president of Converse. In 2010, consumers. In 1977, the brand debuted its Q Tony Hsieh, Zappos he took the helm of then Nike-owned Sidestripe wavy line logo on a style now Umbro to shape-up the company for known as the Old Skool and was making This its eventual divestment. Spillane’s inroads with the skateboarding set. unconventional next challenge was turning around the But it wasn’t until 1982 and the CEO of Zappos. fortunes of Nike’s foundering China movie “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” com, acquired by business in May 2013. Less than two when actor Sean Penn donned a pair Amazon for $1.2 years later, Spillane was elevated to of checkerboard style Vans that the billion in November head of global footwear at Nike. In April brand went mainstream. The Van Doren 2009, is known 2016, he was promoted to president of influence and passion at the company, for his leaderless product and merchandising. acquired by VF Corp. in 2004, today “holocracy” comes from Steve Van Doren, Paul’s management structure where people Q Angel Martinez nephew who is a vice president. take on responsibilities based on their skill set and have no managers. Hsieh Martinez, current Q Sidney Swartz, Timberland got his start at Zappos as an advisor chairman of Deckers and investor after, at 24, selling Link Brands, is a true Swartz, CEO and president of the Exchange, a company he co-founded, to rags-to-riches Shoe Timberland Company for a dozen years Microsoft for $265 million. He eventually Dog. The Cuban ending in June 1998, is credited with suc- rose to CEO and helped grow Zappos, native, who would cessfully developing and marketing the which has been dubbed “the wackiest not see his parents brand’s Classic six-inch yellow boot, workplace in America,” to more than for 34 years, grew helping it gain iconic status and helping $1 billion in sales. In 2013, he relocated up in the South Timberland become the first outdoor brand the company to a former city hall in Las Bronx, NY, after being adopted by his with crossover urban fashion appeal. Vegas’ downtown district. But in late grandmother’s sister and her husband 2014, he stepped down from his role at age three. He coveted a $6 pair of Q Steve Madden attempting to revitalize the area into a Converse All-Stars as a child and saved his tech entrepreneur village. coins from bottle recycling to purchase The 58-year-old them. At age 13, he relocated to the San fashion designer Q Ralph Libonati Francisco Bay area. from Far Rockaway After attending the University of Califor- in Queens, NY, Libonati was one of the original Adidas nia at Davis on a scholarship, where he ran got his start at 32 distributors in the United States and track, Martinez would open a few running with $1100 and a his Libco established the brand on the shops in Northern California. His big break business selling Eastern seaboard. in the shoe industry came in 1980 when he shoes out of his After Adidas formed Adidas USA became employee number three at a start- car trunk. Over a and took over its own distribution up called Reebok International. He would
36 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com spend the next 21 years at the company. she and Kjellerup Saucony praised his For the last 11 years, he has led Deckers, had transitioned proven track record parent of the UGG and Teva brands. He into working on of success, industry stepped down as CEO in May. Dansko full time. credibility and pas- Today, the brand has sion for innovation. Q Danny and Lester Wasserman established itself as Hartge’s 28 years a casual and career at Nike included a As the third (Danny) and fourth (Lester) brand for women, variety of senior generation to run NYC’s legendary Tip-Top and has been mak- product and global Shoes, the Wassermans preside over one ing other moves, too. In 2007, the brand management roles, including global brand of the city’s longest-running and best re- was one of the first companies to sign on director of Nike Running. Before joining garded comfort shoe shops. (Tip-Top has to the newly established B Corp. In 2012, Wolverine Worldwide, he was EVP of glob- served the Upper West Side since 1940.) In they transitioned to being 100 percent al footwear for Quiksilver and an advisor 2007, Lester Wasserman added to the fam- employee owned. “I consider Dansko a to Patagonia’s footwear division. ily’s shoe legacy and opened West, a sneak- platform from which we can look at how er and streetwear boutique just around the business can leave a positive social and Q Armin Dassler, Puma corner from the parent shop. environmental impact,” she says. The son of Puma Q Mandy Cabot, Dansko Q Tom Hartge founder Rudi Das- sler, who had an Mandy Cabot didn’t start in shoes — prior This Shoe Dog and 31-time runner in the embattled business to founding Dansko in 1990, Cabot and Boston Marathon has more than 30 years relationship with her husband, Peter Kjellerup, ran a horse in the shoe industry, most at Nike. In him, brought the training and import business. But after she April, Hartge, 59, was named SVP–global German brand to started selling the iconic clog style, The footwear for Wolverine Worldwide-owned the U.S. market in Professional, “the perfect barn shoe,” she’s Saucony after Pat O’Malley was promoted the mid-1970s. Later, been a player in the shoe world. By 1998, to president. In its statement on his hiring, on a legal technical-
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footwearinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 37 THE GREATEST SHOE DOGS OF ALL TIME
ity, he inherited a controlling 60-percent trenches. “It was a great way to learn Q Murray Friedman, Harbor Footwear stake in Puma in 1974 against his dying about the business,” she says. After more father’s wishes. The years 1969 and 1970 than a decade working at various jobs in While he was a salesman with Bates Shoe brought great exposure to the brand with Nike, Rockey took over at Brooks, which Co in the late 1960s, Friedman took his Joe Namath wearing Puma cleats as the had recently moved to Seattle after being wife, Evelyn, on a trip to Spain and Italy to New York Jets won Super Bowl III in 1969 sold by Wolverine. look at shoe factories. Within a year, the and Pelé donning the brand’s King soccer “That was five years of hard work couple had launched Harbor Footwear boot during Brazil’s victory in the 1970 rationalizing the product line, growing Group, which began making men’s fashion World Cup. the business and hiring, but we were footwear at affordable prices. Armin did everything he could to keep able to increase revenues about seven or Friedman developed in-stock programs the brand vital in the U.S. during the rise of eight times,” Rockey says. “It was terrific, and during FFANY shows his Manhattan an upstart named Nike, including spending probably the most fun experience in my showroom was packed with shoes, most millions on new distributors for the career.” of them available for at-once ordering. brand and selling it through mass-market Rockey followed her time at Brooks with In addition to Harbor, he developed the channels. In 1986, he oversaw a Puma IPO stints as president of the now-defunct Steeple Gate, GBX and Giorgio Brutini but its tenure as a public company would Just For Feet chain, started her own tech brands. Friedman died in 2002 at age 83. be short-lived. In 1987, Deutsche Bank fabrics company and then three years His son-in-law Dennis ran the company seized control of the company and fired ago took over the top spot at children’s after his passing and now his grandson Armin and his sons, Frank and Jorg. footwear brand See Kai Run. “I’m honored Jason Lazar holds an executive position to call myself a Shoe Dog,” Rockey says. at the company. Q Connie Rishwain “I don’t know that my experience is as in- depth as some, but someone asked me to Q Fritz Taylor, Under Armour In 35 years in the footwear business, be on a board and I said, ‘Oh, I’m not as Connie Rishwain has had a front-row smart as that, I’m just an old shoe dog, I’d Taylor has developed a reputation as seat to some of the industry’s most rather be in the warehouse, sniffing glue.” a shoe whisperer for his work with meteoric successes. She cut her teeth at running shoes during a 19-year career Weinstock’s department store as both Q Gillian Meeks at Nike, including his role as footwear a buyer and in the manager training product director and then during brief program, and then joined Nine West in her She’s only served as president of the stints at Brooks and 20s, working with founders Jerome Fisher Keds brand since September, but Gillian Mizuno. Taylor and and Vince Camuto. “They influenced me a Meeks has clocked time at some of the Under Armour are lot — they did such big-picture thinking,” northeast’s biggest footwear brands. getting big props for she says. After returning to California, she She served as The Bandit, which is joined Deckers in 1995, just before the SVP–product and showing all signs of firm bought UGG. And even though it was marketing for Stride- becoming the top- the smallest of the brands, it “became my Rite, director of selling running shoe baby,” she said. “I gravitated to UGG: it women’s footwear produced by the had the most potential, in my mind.” As for Timberland and Baltimore-based brand. Analysts say The head of the brand, she brought that to product manager for Bandit should sell more than one million fruition, growing UGG to a full, year-round Reebok, where she units. At $100 retail, the shoe could be shoe line and taking the brand for $10 began her footwear UA’s biggest hit in running. million in sales to $1.5 billion when she career. It was at Reebok, she says, that left in 2015. She had planned to retire, but she first heard the term Shoe Dog. “For Q Dick Johnson, Foot Locker after a meeting with the Vionic team about me, it’s somebody who has an incredible joining the board, went one further and knowledge and experience,” she says. Johnson has took the president job in August. “It seems “Shoe Dogs are unique in their point of helmed athletic like once you’re in shoes, you’re in shoes view and relentless passion.” powerhouse Foot forever,” she says. Locker since 2014, Q Sam Hassan, The Tannery but his roots at Q Helen Rockey the chain run Hassan has become deep. He joined When Helen Rockey started at Nike in 1983 a fixture in Boston catalog/etailer helping the brand sell excess inventory for his retailing and Eastbay in 1993 as just her second job out of grad school, real estate acumen. and moved into the FL ranks after she was too naive, she says, to know she The Tannery got its its 1997 acquisition. In various roles, was taking a job “no start selling Frye he’s overseen most aspects of the one else wanted.” Boots and sneakers juggernaut as its racked up sales growth But traveling around to Boston’s college — the dot-com/Eastbay business, of the country with population, where it course, but also Lady Foot Locker, Kids business cards that pioneered the concept of brand boutiques. Foot Locker and Footaction, and has read “Close Out Today, The Tannery has a beautiful four- overseen the Foot Locker business both Queen,” Rockey story showpiece on Boylston Street that internationally and domestically. And laid the foundation carries a gamut of product from rugged to he’s a running shoe connoisseur — triple for a career in the high fashion. black, please. O
38 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com THE YOUNG PUPS
n Adam and Ryan Goldston, APL Ronnie Fieg, Kith n Golden Harper & Brian Beckstead
Ryan and Adam Starting in the Growing up in his Goldston turned stockroom of NYC family’s running their time playing stalwart David Z’s store Runner’s Cor- football and bas- at 12-years-old, ner in Orem, UT, ketball at the Uni- Ronnie Fieg grew Harper dreamed versity of Southern up in shoes. After of ergonomic, low- California into working his way to-the-ground foot- Athletic Propul- up to buyer and wear that would sion Labs, a perfor- creative director encourage a natu- mance brand that’s for the chain and achieving cult status ral gait. Along with found a home in for his collaborations with brands like childhood friends the fashion word. Sebago, Red Wing and, of course, ASICS Beckstead and Launched in (his love affair with the Gel-Lyte III Jeremy Howlett 2009, the brand model is legendary), Fieg left in 2011 to (who now serves has seen serious open his own nameplate, Kith. Today in an advisory success: sales a three-store chain with locations in role), he turned were up 3500 Manhattan and Brooklyn and a shop-in- that vision into percent last year, shop at Bergdorf Goodman (as well as Altra, a Zero-Drop the brothers told Forbes while being yes, cereal bar and cafe Kith Treats), shoe line that debuted in 2009. In 2011, recognized as part of the magazine’s Kith also boasts sportswear lines for the line was bought by exercise equip- “30 Under 30.” But the Goldstons men, women and kids. But Fieg’s roots ment manufacturer Icon Fitness. Today, (identical twins; Adam is bearded) got in shoes are always on display: in No- Harper works on design and develop- their start in the business well before vember, Fieg announced a forthcoming ment for the line, which has grown to their college years: their father, Mark collaboration with ASICS — his 50th. encompass trail, run, casual, walk and Goldston, served as Reebok’s first chief outdoor styles as well as apparel and marketing officer and a president of n Gerald Flores accessories, and Beckstead serves as LA Gear. Now a full athletic line count- VP–sales. ing men’s and women’s running and As editor-in-chief of Sole Collector, training, men’s basketball (the original Complex Media’s sneaker-dedicated n Yehuda Shmidman launch product) and a new made-in- blog, Flores brings an old-school Italy Lux collection, APL is sold in Saks, journalism perspective to the wilds of The CEO of publicly traded Sequential Nordstrom, Harrod’s, Selfridges and the blogosphere. Flores cut his teeth at Brands Group, Dubai’s massive Level Shoe District. Footwear News, starting as an intern in one of the largest And this holiday season the Goldstons 2009 and working his way up to an editor pure-play licensing have another feather in their cap — position before being named associate companies around inclusion of their Techloom Phantom editor for sneakers at Complex in 2013. the globe, oversees runner style on Oprah’s 2016 list of Fa- (His sneakerhead bonafides date back a portfolio of con- vorite Things. to high school: he did stints at Finish sumer brands that Line and Foot Locker and a lengthy includes footwear n Jake Anderson and Sam Barstow turn at Footaction.) In August of 2014, labels Avia, And1 he was named EIC at Sole Collector and and Heelys. In Tired of dragging their soggy skate has been positioning the blog as the late October, the company announced shoes all over the slopes, then-college “industry trade for sneakerheads,” he a long-term deal with Guirennio Co. to students and ski instructors Jake says. With stories that go well beyond bring And1 to the Chinese market. All of Anderson and Sam Barstow thought typical sneaker blog fodder of release Sequential’s brands generate approxi- they had a winning idea when their dates and colorways, Sole Collector mately $4 billion annually in retail sales. alma mater, Union College, sponsored geeks out on sneaker design, reviews Shmidman, at 35, is a young pup who a business plan competition. The re- performance, and looks at pop culture cut his business teeth at a New York start- sult, launched in 2013, was Forsake, a and current events through a sneaker up licensing agency that helped launch line of athletically styled but weather- lens. “We look at it as a deeper dive into the Issac Mizrahi brand at Target. He was proof boots designed to appeal to the everything,” Flores says. “We want to be COO of the Iconix Brand Group before millennial consumer and sold today the thought leader of sneaker blogs.” joining Sequential in December 2012. l online and in outdoor shops across the country.
Got something to say? Tweet our senior editor Bob McGee @InInsightF4M
footwearinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 39 comfortDansko PRO XP, MSRP $140
Style and Strategy Dansko most important, but style is part of it, too.” Last year, Dansko introduced Work Wonders, a col- combine as With its Professional, XP and Work Wonders lines, lection of workplace footwear that sells for about $100 Dansko has always been known for serving the health- a pair, below the $130 and $150 ASP of the Professional footwear brands care market, and the brand is making strong inroads in and XP collections. “Work Wonders was designed to the culinary segment, and has also noticed an uptick offer a more accessible price point and that’s important “make it work” among those in the veterinary field. in this category.” for the hospitality, “The culinary profession is a high profile, aspirational The lines are sold through uniform and scrub shops, profession,” says Tiss Dahan, the brand’s new VP–mar- but Dahan says Dansko’s independent retail accounts healthcare and keting. “If you work in a kitchen you’re on your feet “have always recognized this market segment and car- 10-to-12 hours a day and have some real performance ried that product.” light duty segments. needs in your shoes. They need to provide support, 12 brands tell how comfort and slip resistance and all our shoes for that Klogs market do that.” they are targeting The culinary market also aligns with Dansko’s expan- The philosophy at Klogs is to make “unusually com- sion into the men’s business. The brand recently fortable shoes for people whose lives are tough on this lucrative seeded some of its new men’s shoes with the staff in a their feet,” says Kelly Huegerich, marketing manager, new category. well-known restaurant in California and received rave Latitudes. “We strive to make our shoes available to as reviews. “They loved the slip resistant outsoles, but many customers as possible, so our reach extends to also liked that the shoes looked good and they could both brick and mortar retail shops across the country wear them casually after work. The technical aspect is as well as the online community of retailers. Most of
40 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com
WORKINGCOMFORT
Klogs Mission Zentangle, MSRP $114.95Klogs Naples Neon Basil, MSRP $119.95 Grey’s Anatomy Miranda, MSRP $119.95 Grey’s Anatomy Meredith Sport, MSRP $119.95
Ryka Intent XT 2 SR, MSRP $59.99 Ryka Sea Breeze SR, MSRP $64.99 Lifestride Capstone, MSRP $59.99 Lifestride Buzz, MSRP $59.99
our retailers cater to healthcare and occupational The footbed contains a specially formulated introduced a classic clog and Mary Jane that both customers, although our styles are also available soft polyurethane, cork and memory foam, and is include removeable footbeds and colorful slip at many comfort/lifestyle stores. Many of our cus- lined with leather. The shoes also feature a slip resistant outsoles. tomer base are repeat customers who have tried resistant mild-rocker outsole that is secured to The company supplies retail accounts with our footwear in the past and have found relief the footbed using Alegria’s patented interlocking Grey’s Anatomy POP and merchandises the col- from an ailment as a result of wearing our shoes. technology. The comfort and support have led to lection to a line of Grey’s Anatomy scrubs, which Word of mouth is one of our biggest assets.” the shoes developing a strong following among many of their accounts carry. “We create a coordi- Klogs uses social media, emails and print nurses and teachers. nated look that drives add-on sales,” Flanagan says. catalogs (upon request) to reach customers and The Debra is a closed-heel clog with the brand’s aims to support its retailers by providing a “find classic rocker outsole and padded collar. It is Timberland PRO a retailer” link on its website and offering co-op offered in a variety of colorful leather patterns and opportunities when retailers reach out to their comes with double elastic gores for easy slip on The brand’s focus on the light industrial work customers advertising our brand in their store. and off. The Keli is a slip-on shoe with a slimmer category includes several key stories in 2017. “When designing our styles for each season, we silhouette on the lightweight, flexible professional A Women’s Fall 2017 launch for Timberland PRO do a lot of trend research in both the healthcare outsole. It also features padded collar and elastic will include the Riveter clog as well as the six-inch field and general categories,” says Huegerich. “For v-gores for comfortable wear throughout the day. Hightower boot built on a women’s last for ulti- instance, in the healthcare field, we take note of mate comfort and fit, combined with our superior what scrub colors are up and coming, what fea- Ryka anti-fatigue technology for all day comfort. tures are allowed/not allowed within a hospital… On the men’s side, the brand is launching the and design our styles around those trends. In Athletic brands have always had a piece of the Disruptor, which is styled for today’s younger many cases, hospitals are restricting healthcare health care market and Ryka has developed a fol- worker looking for a casual aesthetic while work- workers on what scrubs and colors they are lowing in family shoe channels, uniform stores ing in manufacturing and warehousing. It is built allowed to wear, so footwear becomes the only and via e-commerce. with dynamic anti-fatigue technology which way to still show any personality.” The brand’s styles offer patented oil and slip absorbs shock and returns energy at key zone In an effort to reach a younger demographic, resistant outsoles and stain resistant uppers. of the foot. The Disruptor also has Defender Klogs is introducing the Napa Collection in the Ryka’s Sea Breeze styles are machine washable. Repellent Systems, a triple action formula that spring which will include a more casual slip on repels spill, blocks stains and helps maintain style and a tie style, which is more popular to Softwalk/Grey’s Anatomy breathability. workers just starting out. The slip-on price point Another key offering from the brand is the will be below $100, which, coupled with the laid- Three years ago, Softwalk signed a deal to pro- Powertrain Sport, which features athletic styl- back style, may help reach occupational workers duce a Grey’s Anatomy shoe line, using the name ing. Made with Ripstop nylon for breathable new to the industry. from the highly rated TV show. Marketing VP comfort and durability, it offers safety toe pro- Kevin Flanagan says the company is “able to lever- tection and all day comfort with anti-fatigue Alegria age the TV show’s strong social media following technology. (three million followers on Twitter, 22 million on Alegria by PG Lite started 10 years ago with a Facebook and two million on Instagram) to drive Lifestride line of shoes that featured a removable footbed product awareness.” that is ergonomically designed to fit the natural The product line is built around two shoes, the The Lifsetride brand has had a long history contours of feet. The footwear is designed to Meredith and Miranda, which feature lightweight in workplace footwear with a line of shoes that relieve stress in legs, hips and back from standing and flexible bottoms that Flanagan says “returns includes memory foam insoles and Patented oil long hours. energy with each step.” This year, the company and slip resistant outsoles.
42 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com
WORKINGCOMFORT
ABEO 24/7 System Bessie, MSRP $170 ABEO B.I.O. System Flora, MSRP $150 Naturalizer Florence, MSRP $99 Naturalizer Freeda, MSRP $99
OTZ OG WRL, MSRP $145 4EurSole Comfort 4-Ever T-Strap Keen Utility Asheville Timberland PRO Powertrain Sport
4EurSole specifically for women in the service and health- The brand’s comfort story revolves around care industries. The shoes offer safety, comfort its CORKcushion footbed that is contoured This collection was introduced by Rocky and style features. The target consumer is women around the natural shape of the foot for comfort Brands several years ago to target health care aged 35-55 who work as nurses, restaurant and relief. The polyurethane open cell foam workers, teachers and the like. The brand’s posi- servers, flight attendants, in healthcare adminis- composition is mixed with cork chips for shock tioning is that lines between work and non-work tration, or in any other career that requires them absorption with bounce memory. It is covered life are blurred more than ever before for today’s to be on their feet a good portion of the day. with a veneer to provide a natural soft feel to the woman and that footwear needs to “work” in both Naturalizer supports retail store sales of its foot, making it ideal to wear barefoot. the workplace and outside of it. @work collection with in-store signage, bag Rocky calls 4EurSole “a hybrid- brand” that stuffers and catalogs and provides its online team Keen offers shoes that are foot-healthy, work-friendly, with artwork and graphics to further highlight the comfortable and stylish. The brand’s collection collection’s features. Keen Utility styles include options for every- ranges from clogs, slip-ons and loafers to sandals The brand says it targets women “both experi- thing from light industrial to heavy-duty. Two and booties. Pricing for the brand is in the $120 to enced and new in their profession in an effort to styles in the light duty category to watch include $130 retail range. provide a solution to those who’ve suffered for the Ashville and the Destin. 4EurSole has worked to develop brand aware- years without the footwear they need and a pre- The Ashville’s lightweight design and athletic ness at the store level by offering a launch ventative solution for those just getting started.” silhouette provides versatility from work to week- package for new dealers that includes display end and is designed as an option for indoor materials and free footwear and incentives for OTZ Shoes working environments and manufacturing. associates selling on the floor. The brand also Meanwhile, the Keen Utility PTC Series, provides gift promotions each season so that con- With a focus on fashionable function, OTZ including the Destin, targets the hospital- sumers may receive a relevant and high-quality has fashion retailers included in its mix, such ity industry. The youthful, skater-inspired branded item such as fun bamboo blend socks as as uber-hip Opening Ceremony, but is mainly design of the Destin coupled with comfort and a gift with purchase. sold through family shoe channels, including slip-resistance makes it a popular option for Birkenstock retailers around the country. OTZ hospitality and service staff. ABEO focuses its marketing resources mainly on in- Keen Utility footwear styles can be found at a store POP of its CORKcushion footbed along with variety of online and brick and mortar retailers. ABEO shoes are sold at The Walking Company social media and product placement, according The brand reports that its Spring 2017 Utility and other independent retailers. Described by to Ludo Malmoux, creative director and founder collection has been well-received so far by the brand as “perfect for workers on their feet of OTZ, which was acquired by K-Swiss parent retail partners. The brand plans to support its all day,” ABEO clogs feature customized footbed E.Land Group in 2013 Spring 2017 footwear with advertising, PR and solutions based on arch and foot type. In stores, Malmoux notes that while he feels OTZ Shoes social media as well as potential events that customers get a digital scan to analyze a wearers are “ideally suited to the hospitality industry,” it would activate retailers, connecting them to exact foot length, width and arch type, creat- has been challenging for the brand to gain trac- the customers and in turn, the customers to the ing a 3D digital footprint. The digital footprint is tion in work and hospitality retail channels. “It’s brand’s products. matched to the optimal arch type in the clogs partly due to the premium cost of our footwear Durability, innovation, comfort and fit are a style a wearer choses for the ultimate all-day and partly due to the conservative nature of this focus for the brand, whose target consumer comfort. The collection is available in a variety of kind of retailer in trying something new.” is “truly any hardworking man or woman.” On styles with slip-resistant options ideal for nurses, However, Malmoux notes that many consum- a corporate level there are plans to support chefs, and hospitality workers. ers discover the comfort of OTZ on their own as the new footwear with advertising, PR and a work option, including hospitality, kitchen and social media as well as potential events that Naturalizer healthcare workers. In fact the brand designed would activate retailers, connecting them to a collection with celeb chef Michael Voltaggio in the customers and in turn, the customers to The Naturalizer@work collection is designed 2014. the brand’s products. O
44 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com
RETAIL DISRUPTORS
Brands Break Through the Clutter with Unique Distribution Strategies.
By Suzanne Blecher
thleisure is everywhere today, leaving brands to explore unorthodox A alternatives for selling fit- ness-oriented apparel and footwear. For The Warm Up, a performance line from Jessica Simpson, this meant set- ting up a booth at Self Magazine’s Up N Out Studio event in New York City on October 15 and 16. The brand had sneakers, performance tops, leggings and sports bras on display; alongside ballerina flats, while Lululemon and Brooks Imperial have an understanding of how to fellow sponsors Danskin Apparel, Lole do the same with apparel. Vanguard sell climbing gear from working here Fabletics, Propel Water, Nature’s At Earth Treks climbing centers, and specialized experience,” Bosley Bakery and Yogi Tea. selling “is about convenience,” explains. As opposed to other settings For the Jessica Simpson line, which says Charlotte Bosley, VP–retail. where a customer can try out a pair of currently sells at Macy’s and HSN, it “Customers are learning how to climb shoes on a couple of boulders, Earth was a grassroots way to get in sync here and we want to take them on Treks allows a complete test run at its with a performance-oriented crowd their next journey.” Retail is approxi- five facilities. there for a day of trying out the mately 12 percent of total sales thus hottest classes from a selection of far for 2016 and has been growing Going Grassroots at Sporting Events boutique fitness studios. about 20 percent a year for the last Hoka One One often sells at pre- The move follows a string of brands seven years. Earth Treks sells both mium event expos, including the selling at boutique studio trunk climbing and approach shoes by Ironman World Championship in shows and small retail gym settings. brands including La Sportiva, Evolv, Kailua-Kona, HI, where it was the offi- Studio footwear brand Blake Brody Scarpa, Five Ten and Adidas Outdoor. cial footwear sponsor this year. The collaborates with upscale yoga, The Evolv Defy and La Sportiva Katana venue is a winner because “it’s high pilates and barre studios to sell its are the company’s best sellers. “We traffic, with interested and passionate
46 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com National Shoe Retailers Association
America’s Largest Organization Representing Independent Footwear Retailers
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consumers in a high-energy setting,” memorative items to celebrate their Clockwise there over a weekend than we would says Isaac Alvear, VP–sales for Hoka race achievement or further connect from upper left: in a store,” Perkins comments. Being One One. “It’s also a great opportu- them with their favorite performance Footwear from at the beach, in an environment where nity to partner with a local retailer, and lifestyle brands,” she says. Altra The Warm Up by Reef’s sandals are worn, consumers which adds value to their business Footwear just started branching out Jessica Simpson; say ‘I need an upgrade’ and go into buy and fortifies business relationships,” with limited edition products at the The Scout Slip On mode. It makes it turnkey,” he explains. he adds. TCS New York City Marathon Expo, by Dr. Scholl’s; The Perkins would like to find more ways Newton Running is doing something displaying its best-selling Torin in to connect in a grassroots fashion, per- retail scene at the different this year “to make our expo men’s and women’s versions depicting haps at yoga retreats. “We are getting World’s Largest presence more of a special experi- graffiti-inspired New York City land- more creative about it,” he says. Surfing Demo, ence,” notes Erin Kersten, Newton’s marks. director of marketing. The brand While customers may traditionally Camp Shred; Liaising with Lifestyle Accounts has created and will sell special edi- think of Reef being sold at surf shops, Retail at Earth While sneaker collecting used to tion shoes for the Boston Marathon, “we also like to be where people don’t Treks in Crystal be a niche hobby, sneakerheads Boulder Ironman, Kona Ironman, expect our brand to show up,” says City, VA. now have lots of choices with exclu- Chicago Marathon and New York City Shea Perkins, marketing manager for sives and collaborations popping Marathon. The brand will continue Reef. For example, Reef had a booth at up at shops like Urban Outfitters, to produce for other events “as more February’s edition of the world’s largest Nordstrom, Asos and Barneys. and more consumers look for com- surf demo at Camp Shred. The event, J.Crew’s partnership with New held at San Elijo Campground in Cardiff Balance – which began with sneakers by the Sea, CA, had product demos, live – recently extended into performance music and a beer garden. “We sold more apparel. Fitness apparel retailer Athleta does not yet sell footwear in-store, but shoes from ASICS, New Balance, Puma and Sorel are avail- able via their catalog and online. Dr. Scholl’s has partnered with Athleta since August 2015, for “a way to keep our brand fresh and reach new customers or reintroduce our brand to consumers,” says Keith Duplain, senior VP & GM, for Dr. Scholl’s Shoes. The exec notes that Athleta’s core customer has many common- alities with that of Dr. Scholl’s, both appealing to “fitness-minded women from their 30s to 50s living active, healthy lives and who want versatile and comfortable footwear that looks good, is on-trend and helps them feel confident.” The Dr. Scholl’s Scout Slip On has been a customer favorite, with versions in charcoal flannel and gar- denia mesh performing “exceptionally well at Athleta,” according to Duplain. “We keep our brand distribution in places where runners shop and Athleta absolutely fits this direc- tion,” says Marc Misiewicz, director of national accounts at Brooks. The brands have been partners since 2010. Brooks’ Ghost franchise sells well at the retailer, as does the tweed Vanguard style from the Brooks Heritage Collection. “Women gravi- tate to beauty through an athletic product, which is what we try to lead with the styles we offer. Interesting patterns, colors and materialization all play a big part of the customer journey, and Athleta has done a great job showing their ability to stay at the front of trends and fashion while blending consistency in fit and func- tion,” notes the exec. O
48 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com For Independent Specialty Retailers
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JOIN US Register Today outdoorretailer.com/RSC LINES WE LIKE CURBAPPEAL The running silhouette remains hot as we approach the Holiday and Spring retail drops. Here are some eye-catching numbers from performance brands. 1
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1. Mizuno Wave Sky, MSRP $149.99. Maximum cushioned neutral trainer. 2. On Cloudflow, MSRP $139.99. Aimed at the serious runner, the Cloudflow is designed as a lightweight, cushioned style. 3. Adidas Terrex Agravic, MSRP $135. Women’s-specific shoe fuses Boost tech for “endless energy” into a trail silhouette. 4. Saucony Freedom ISO,MSRP $160. Has Saucon’ys first full-length EVERUN midsole plus the EVERUN topsole. 5. 361 Degrees Stratomic, MSRP $150. Qu!kfoam midsole allows for enhanced guidance, acceleration and attenuation. 6. Reebok Liquid Speed, MSRP $189.50. Produced using Reebok’s Liquid Factory manufacturing technique, it features a one-piece outsole and lacing system drawn with liquid PU. 7. Skechers GOrun 5, MSRP $110. Light, fast, neutral trainer with a Skechers GOknit upper. 8. La Sportiva Akyra, MSRP $140. This trail shoe has a 9mm drop and aggressive 5mm deep lugs combined with FriXion rubber and a Trail Bite heel for all-terrain traction. The Trail Rocker sole promotes natural outer heel-inner toe support.
50 • Footwear Insight ~ November/December 2016 footwearinsight.com #DarnTough THE SANTA FE CREW SERIES