Welcome to paradise.

JENA MAGAZINE

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Sports WWW.VISIT-.DE/EN Events Shopping Food and drink 2020 2021 JENA HIGHLIGHTS — LIFE IN PARADISE — JENA UNDER THE MICROSCOPE — TRACES OF HISTORY ON A TASTE OF JENA WINDKNOLLEN HILL — Dear readers — JENA HOTSPOTS THE SAALEHORIZONTALE TRAIL — and visitors, — FINE WINES WITH GO WITH THE FLOW A LONG TRADITION welcome to — CHILD’S PLAY! 30—33 the city of light, welcome to paradise! 4—19

Light is life – and Jena is all about Light is nature. The beauty of the light quality of life, as our visitors soon find reflected in the dew of the Saalewiesen out for themselves. Join us on a tour of meadows in the morning, the sense of discovery around our exciting, multifa- liberation and inspiration on a walk ceted city. Get to know the vibrant arts along the SaaleHorizontale trail, the and music scene, stroll through Jena’s blissful feeling of a day spent in Paradies verdant Paradies Park, and retrace the Park – here in Jena we appreciate them footsteps of Goethe, Schiller and other all. So grab your walking shoes or get on famous individuals who helped shape your bike and explore the magnificent the city’s history. And while you’re ta- countryside around Jena. There are even king a well-deserved break in one of the exciting discovery trails designed espe- cosy cafés and restaurants, make sure to cially for children. Our website www. try the wine that has been grown in Jena visit-jena.de offers lots of suggestions 20—24 for some 800 years. for days out.

Jena is also about passion. This is not A CULTURAL EXPERIENCE confined to the games of local football — WHERE TO TODAY? team Carl Zeiss Jena, or the ScienceCity — basketball players, or to the many other THE SOUND OF JENA´S sporting events that take place here. PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA — In Jena, we are also deeply passionate We hope you enjoy THEATRE SHOULD BE FUN about research and innovation, which this information and — have led to groundbreaking inventions A DAY AT THE MUSEUM in the field of optics. To this day, light is have a wonderful both the focus and the ingredient stay in our city of of the success enjoyed by our acclaimed light and Jena’s 25—27 high-tech companies, prestigious rese- arch institutes and creative start-ups. very own ‘paradise’. PASSION — Your JenaKultur SHOPPING MARKET DAY! — tourism team — SHOPPING WITH A VISION MARKETS AND FESTIVALS 28—29

2 3 Jena 7 SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES highlights Jena – 2 from history to Discover arts and culture, get a bird’s eye view of Jena or explore the city’s high-tech on green oases. See our ten tips for ideas a guided walk and inspiration and get to know our 8 friendly university city on the river. And if you can’t manage to fit Goethe, Schiller, Abbe, Zeiss – what would Jena everything into a flying visit, a week- be without the many historical figures who lived end or a short break, you’ll just have and worked here? Jena University, founded in 1558, was often at the heart of things. Friedrich to come again! Schiller taught here, and it is also where his friend and fellow writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe indulged his interest in the natural sciences. Ernst Abbe and Carl Zeiss developed 1 3 9 pioneering products in the field of optics in Jena.

This guided tour includes the Collegium Jenense, where the university was founded, as well as St John’s Gate and the Pulverturm tower, the market square with the historical town hall, St Michael’s Church, and many other significant locations and buildings – the perfect way of seeing several places of interest in one go.

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1. Reaching for the stars 3. Jena – at the heart of nature 5. Falling in love with Jena 7. Discovering art for yourself Back in 1926, it was hailed as the The much-acclaimed SaaleHorizon- Whether it’s our regular market Great works of international art TIP ‘marvel of Jena’, and thanks to the tale walking trail is a revelation for days, or the range of markets on history for Jena and its visitors. latest technology the Zeiss Plane- nature lovers and hiking enthu- different themes – from Christmas The city’s Kunstsammlung gallery Public guided tours are free with the JenaCard. Holders of the card will also benefit siasts. Over the course of 72 kilo- to crafts – there is no better way presents a programme of temporary tarium is still attracting thousands from discounts at museums and other attrac- of visitors today. The highlight at metres it features castles, palaces, to engage with our products, our exhibitions intended to showcase tions, offers for events, and unlimited use of the world’s oldest continuously op- parks, forests and meadows that creativity and our passion. Well, contemporary art and stimulate 10 public transport. erating planetarium is a full-dome could be straight out of a fairytale, apart from watching a game of discussion. The gallery is part of digital projection that shows the but above all it offers magnificent football played by FC Carl Zeiss Jena Jena’s municipal museum, housed sky full of stars in incredible detail. vistas of Jena. perhaps, but that’s another story in a building that is an attraction in altogether … itself. Don’t miss it! 2. On the trail of history 4. Experiencing culture live 9. Recharging your batteries 10. Becoming an insider OTHER GUIDED TOURS Jena is bursting with history. Six weeks of music from around 6. Enjoying poetry and philosophy 8. Hitting new heights Our two green oases are must-see Eating, drinking and shopping are Among its oldest monuments are the the world, innovative theatre, film Goethe and Schiller were two ex- The JenTower, affectionately known attractions. As you would expect among the most pleasant holiday Jena has a lot going on, and offers a wide variety of Carmelite Abbey, Collegium Jenense nights, thousands of happy, smiling traordinary writers and intellectu- as the ‘stack of biscuits’, is our from a park called ‘Paradies’ activities. In the delightful Wag- guided tours. The different tours focus on a range of and the remains of the city fortifi- people and a fantastic open-air als whose remarkable achievements most recent landmark, visible from (paradise), this green space on the nergasse – also known as ‘pub lane’ aspects of the city of light. Jena has a suitable tour cations. The Schnapphans clock on atmosphere – that’s the Kulturare- left many traces in Jena. The spirit far and wide. Its handy observation river Saale is a wonderful place for – you can do all three. Before you for any occasion – from sightseeing walks, multi- the historical town hall is one of the na festival. This is summer in Jena of their era is captured in Schiller’s platform at a height of 128 metres walks or simply to switch off. Jena’s know it you’ll be mingling with the media guided tours, guided tours for groups and seven wonders of Jena. The Church at its best – make sure to book your summer house. offers splendid panoramic views of botanical gardens, meanwhile, locals, picking up tips and recom- children, themed tours, and even tours with guides in of St Michael contains the original tickets early. Jena and the Saale valley. are the second oldest in . mendations, and enjoying regional historical costume. memorial plate for Martin Luther, Home to an amazing range of more delicacies such as Jena beer and the man who started the Refor- than 10,000 types of plant, their Thuringian specialities. mation. But the best thing is that tropical temperatures also make www.visit-jena.de/en everything in Jena is just a short them an ideal retreat on cold and 4 walk away. Time to start exploring! rainy days. 5 Javelin thrower Thomas Röhler from Jena travels all over the world. He was Olympic champion at the 2016 games in Rio de Janeiro and European champion in 2018 in , and has regularly competed and trained in England, the US, South Africa and Finland. There are challenges waiting everywhere, and everywhere is beautiful, exciting and fascinating. But the only place the top athlete wants to live is in his The botanical home city. Why? Here he takes us to some of his favourite places in Jena. garden – an oasis in the city centre SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES

Anyone interested in plants and nature should make sure to visit Jena’s botanical garden. Where else can you find such an attractive oasis so close to the city centre? Thomas Röhler always recommends the captivating gardens, which are maintained Life in by Jena University, to young athletes and people visiting Jena with their families. Thomas Röhler particularly likes the cacti and succulents. Is that because they remind him of training and competitions in warmer climes? “No,” he laughs, “it’s because of the challenge to get them to flower!” Goethe himself played a part in shaping the current form of the garden, which was paradise founded in 1586 as a medicinal herb garden.

6 7 Jena – a paradise for students

A natural high on the SaaleHorizontale Jena is a great place for students. Everything is close at hand. It’s just Simply switch off the smart- ten minutes’ walk from the main campus on Ernst Abbe square to the old The fabulous thing about Jena is that you’re never more than 15 minutes university building. Over the next few years, a new campus is being built away from the great outdoors. As far as Thomas Röhler is concerned, that phone, enjoy the moment, on Inselplatz, directly opposite. Anyway keen to blow away the cobwebs means the city offers an amazing quality of life. His destination of choice lower the adrenaline levels. between lectures can be in Paradies Park in next to no time. The students is the SaaleHorizontale walking trail, which runs along the top of the certainly appreciate this luxury. For Thomas Röhler, who obtained his bachelor’s degree in sports and economics here, a typical university day

limestone hills that surround Jena. It’s the perfect quick fix when you’re SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES looking for relaxation. And in no time at all you’re back in the bustling begins at 6am. Lectures alternate with training until the evening. His sport city centre to get on with the rest of your day. and his education – they are both important to the Olympic champion, who is currently studying for a master’s in business administration.

Burgau bridge, a historical monument

For 500 years, the historical Burgau bridge has spanned the Saale river, linking the districts of Burgau and Lobeda. Thomas Röhler regards the attractive structure as one of the sights of the Saale valley. The fast-flowing Burgau weir is right by the bridge. By the way, two beautiful long-distance cycle routes lead directly past Burgau bridge – the Saale Cycle Route and the Towns of Cycle Route. Touring cyclists should aim to include a detour through Paradies Park right into the centre of Jena.

There’s always time for an ice cream on Coffee – ideally freshly roasted Holzmarkt! According to Thomas Röhler, athletes love to drink coffee. And he ought to “I love ice cream! And my favourite ice cream comes from know. The Olympic champion likes to drop in at the coffee roastery on Markt 11 Holzmarkt. After all, athletes don’t spend all day just eating whenever he’s in Jena. Sitting in the market square, with a delicious coffee on rice and salad …” Thomas Röhler shares his passion for the table and sometimes even a slice of their wonderful homemade cake – yes, delicious ice cream with many other locals. The long queue at athletes do eat cake! – that is relaxation at its best. It’s a sense of home that the Riva ice-cream parlour is ample proof of that. Holzmarkt is the javelin thrower does miss when he’s travelling the world. But even relaxa- Jena’s central transport hub, with buses and trams going off tion requires a bit of training – especially for athletes used to constantly per- in all directions. In the spring, the square returns to its roots forming in top gear. Simply to switch off the smartphone, enjoy the moment, as the venue of the Thuringian Wood Market, which spreads lower the adrenaline levels and add a bit of variety to the day, that is something across the entire city centre. Thomas Röhler resolves to do on a regular basis.

A bird’s eye view of Jena and its surroundings Wagnergasse – a relaxed and friendly vibe An outing to Schleichersee lake Start your day in paradise

“The JenTower is the ideal place to explain Jena” – that is Lunchtime, and a break in training. So where are we going to eat? That’s a very Its official name may be Südbad, but the locals continue to refer to How many people can boast that they’ve got paradise why Thomas Röhler likes to take visitors up to its 128 metre good question! Thomas Röhler normally recommends Wagnergasse to his guests. their swimming lake in the southern part of the city as Schleichersee. right on their doorstep? In Jena this is nothing unusual! high platform. He’s pretty much guaranteed the ‘wow’ effect. It seems to be good advice, as they’re always happy to come back. With its blend The Schleicher family used to run a gravel pit here until the 1920s. When Thomas Röhler is in Jena, in between competitions Nowhere else offers such panoramic views across Jena and the of the medieval and the modern, and its many restaurants, cafés and small The athletes’ training ground is next door to the lake. As he practises and training camps, he likes nothing better than to start surrounding region. Even the locals never fail to be amazed by shops, the narrow street seems more like a cosy living room. Good coffee, diverse his javelin throwing, Thomas Röhler frequently has an audience of curi- his day with a gentle run through Paradies Park. The air the magnificent vistas – of their city, of the Saale valley, Jenzig cuisine and food to go – Jena’s Wagnergasse offers something for all tastes. ous spectators – in swimwear and with ice cream in hand. What exactly is clean, his worries drift away, and his body feels as light hill, Fuchsturm tower, and of the Hufeisen nature conservation is it that always draws the Olympic champion back to Jena, now that as a feather. Even the rain can’t spoil his fun! A few short area, all the way to Leuchtenburg Castle. he’s at home all over the world? “I’ve come to appreciate the feeling of sprints get the circulation going. His five kilometre lap The full story is available at belonging somewhere – and I like the nature, and the way that people takes about half an hour. So what next? Time for a healthy INFO www.visit-jena.de/en here are so friendly and open with each other. Other places may be athlete’s breakfast. terribly exciting, but I’m just a guest there. My roots are here in Jena.” 8 9 The German Optical Taking the auditorium back 100 years The German Optical Museum closed in July 2019 for renova- Museum is going tion and conversion. It will take a good three years to gut to be an interactive and refurbish the building, including the replacement of all utility lines. One of the highlights of the museum, built in 1924 as a school for opticians, is a 100-seat auditorium, research museum. SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES which will be restored to its original appearance, featuring old-style benches complete with inkwells, a lectern with a slate blackboard and water access, and the original lights. The inscription ‘Per aspera ad astra’ – through adversity to the stars, a quote from the philosopher Seneca, will also enjoy pride of place once again. The original stairs and floor tiles are going to survive too, but in the other Jena under rooms nothing will remain as it was. They will receive a neutral décor that puts the focus firmly on the experiments and display objects. Upon reopening, the German Optical Museum will have just over 2,000 square metres of exhi- bition space in which to display its treasures and offer an interactive optics experience. This huge project is backed by a foundation consisting of Carl Zeiss AG, the Carl Zeiss the microscope INTERVIEW and Ernst Abbe foundations, Jena city council and the Friedrich Schiller University. Professor Timo Mappes is buzzing with enthusiasm on the topic of optical research. Professor Timo Mappes Director of the German In July 2018, he became the founding director of the German Optical Museum and Optical Museum

Professor of the History of Physics with a focus on science communication at the The full interview is available at Friedrich Schiller . In this interview he describes his vision for www.visit-jena.de/en the future: to combine the latest science with the history of optics, and to transform the museum into a showcase for optical research with international appeal. He is in charge of the museum’s conversion and conceptional redesign that began in July 2019.

Professor Mappes, the German Optical Museum accompanying the displays. Important optical What will the museum be like after the relaunch? We want to is being rejuvenated and will be closed for advances that everyone uses on a daily basis and Hands-on and interactive? three years. Had it become outdated? that originate in Jena were not being explained. include them That is about to change! We are in the process of developing an entirely new exhibition concept. all and inspire From a global perspective the museum’s collection The German Optical Museum is going to be an interactive research museum. is world class. Nevertheless, the exhibition had Let’s talk glasses – the museum is famous for We are planning a number of hands-on experiments. But we don’t want chil- a passion for become a bit dated. We are planning to make its extensive collection of eyeglasses. Are there dren to become too overexcited and simply run from one interactive exhibit to structural alterations and we’re also implement- any secrets that visitors might like to know? the next without having learned anything at the end. The experiments should optics in them. ing a completely new exhibition concept. The last be interesting for everyone – kids, students and adults. We want to include them substantial changes were made in the 1990s, and There are glasses in our holdings that haven’t even all and inspire a passion for optics in them. Until we reopen, we will be trialling so our current presentation is no longer fit for been recorded yet – for example a collection of our new concepts with school groups, taking their feedback on board and using purpose. We hold around 20,000 objects, and only 4,000 historical spectacles that were bought from a this to improve our plans. That will result in robust installations for the German about 15 per cent of them were on display to visi- well-known ophthalmologist in the 1930s and only Optical Museum, which will provide the greatest possible learning impact. tors. The new museum design will include a resid- finally paid off in the 1950s. And hardly anyone ual collection, which will allow many more objects knows that the museum has glasses that used to Where will you be taking your own visitors while the museum is closed? to be put on show than before. In the permanent belong to famous individuals, such as Friedrich exhibition itself we will focus on presenting a few Hölderlin, Rudolf Virchow, Robert Koch and Helmut Jena has lots of attractive locations for visitors. I always recommend the objects within an integrated, holistic context. In Kohl. We can paint quite the picture with these botanical garden, and the Museum of Phylogenetics with the Ernst Haeckel addition, we will always be showcasing the latest by setting them in context. Glasses have always House, which is currently closed for renovation. These are scientific insti- optical research findings in a way that is generally been a status symbol as well. Scissors-glasses, tutions, but still very enjoyable. However, the Zeiss Planetarium, another accessible. Our mission is to show and explain the diamond-studded lorgnettes, glasses using smoky milestone in the global history of optics, is likely to be of particular interest importance of optics in general, and of Jena as a quartz – they all showed that you could afford to many visitors. I would advise anyone wanting to explore the surrounding global centre for optics in particular, in a relatable to spend money on your eyewear. They will form region when the weather is nice to head for the SaaleHorizontale walking trail and entertaining way. The previous presenta- a very attractive part of our residual collection, and admire the city of light from above – or to hike up to Leuchtenburg Castle, tion was very much rooted in the 1990s, with a which will allow visitors to see virtually our entire which can be seen towering in the distance. We are not planning to display strong reliance on objects, and only German texts inventory. any exhibits at the German Optical Museum during the conversion, but we are busy organising loans for temporary exhibitions at our partner museums.

10 11 Traces of

history on SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES Windknollen hill

A live battle experience An acoustic journey back in time

Every five years, the events of 14 October 1806 are If you are less interested in the tactical details of the battle but would commemorated over the course of one weekend still like to experience history up close, you should consider the Little did the people of Jena know in October 1806 that a battle here. The next time will be from 15 to 17 Octo- Windknollen memorial field 1806 audio walk. This interactive walk ber 2021 – be sure to make a note in your diary! was created by artists Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller, winners on the hills above their city would play a decisive role in the More than 1,000 performers from around a dozen of the city of Jena’s 2004 Botho Graef Art Prize, as a memorial to the course of European history. Napoleon’s victory in the famous countries will be gathering in the area. There will Battle of Jena and Auerstedt. It starts at Museum 1806 in Cospeda, be plenty to see, from the three-day international from where visitors set out on a 45 minute round trip across the former battle of Jena and Auerstedt established his supremacy in encampment at Vierzehnheiligen, the major histor- battlefield, equipped with an MP3 player and headphones. Shouted Europe. Today, a trip to the battlefield is an ideal day out for ical re-enactment of the battle on the Saturday, in orders, screams, horses whinnying as they gallop past, shots and the area between the villages of Cospeda, Closewitz explosions – the multi-layered soundtrack creates a vivid impression families, nature lovers and anyone with an interest in history. and Lützeroda, or at the wreath-laying ceremony of events at the time. Listening to this rich combination of voices and on the Sunday at the main memorial by Vierzehn- sounds provides a completely new way to experience the landscape heiligen pilgrimage church. Farmers’ markets offer around you. Participants follow a set route based on instructions as an opportunity for browsing and for sustenance they cross the field in step with the audio track. The audio walk is an in the form of local specialities. The participating emotional and entertaining experience for history buffs, but equally villages and the Jena 1806 association are looking fascinating for the whole family. forward to welcoming thousands of visitors from near and far.

On 13 October 1806, Emperor Napoleon mustered Museum 1806 in Cospeda Among newts and larks his troops on Landgrafenberg and Windknollen. On the windswept hills to the west of Jena, not far from the It’s pretty windy up here! But then the clue is Overnight he moved his artillery up the steep former battlefield, lies the small village of Cospeda. It is home to in the name – Windknollen means ‘windy knoll’. slopes to the top of these strategically impor- Museum 1806, which is dedicated to the historical events that This treeless hill, where Napoleon set up camp took place right on the villagers’ doorstep more than 200 years with his army in 1806, is now a designated nature tant hills. At dawn on 14 October the fighting ago. Today it is difficult to imagine what the fighting back then conservation area that is home to a diverse range began, which ended with the French army under actually entailed. We can barely guess at the hardships local of plants and animals. Protected orchids, like the people had to endure, or what the soldiers’ day-to-day life would bee orchid and the greater and lesser butterfly Napoleon inflicting a devastating defeat on the have been like. At Museum 1806, a selection of authentic objects, orchids, thrive here. Endangered field birds, such Prussian and Saxon troops. maps and dioramas gives visitors an idea of the geographical and as the woodlark and the barred warbler, sing their tactical course of the encounter between the French army and the complex melodies, while rare butterflies flutter troops of Prussia and Saxony. They can also discover what led to over the semi-dry grassland. And all despite, the twin battle of Jena and Auerstedt, and learn about the impact or perhaps because of, the fact that the area Napoleon Stone of Napoleon’s victory on the course of European history. continued to be used for military purposes after Napoleon’s victory. This meant that nature was The Napoleon Stone is an essential stop on Windknollen hill. This pop- The exhibition began as the small private collection of the left largely untouched. The compacted pits creat- ular destination for locals on a day out offers panoramic views across landlord of a Cospeda inn, but these days the museum is run ed by the tanks quickly filled up with rainwater, the Saale valley. Many a stressed-out desk jockey takes a quick run by the Jena Institute of Military History Research. On behalf providing an ideal habitat for indigenous newt up to the Napoleon Stone after work to clear his head. On weekends, For more tips on day trips and information INFO of the city of Jena, this association aims to unlock the battle’s species. For walkers and nature lovers, Windknol- families meet here to fly their kites. Napoleon had the letter ‘N’ carved about Museum 1806 please visit tourism potential, for example through guided walks, lectures, len hill offers a network of paths and trails where into the stone, originally the site of a boundary stone that marked the www.visit-jena.de/en local information panels and the expert-led development of the they are undisturbed and can enjoy the fresh border between Jena and Cospeda, to commemorate his triumph. That exhibition. breeze on their face – close to the city, yet right stone has been lost. The current version was put in place in 1992 and at the heart of nature. shows the distances to important places in Napoleon’s life.

12 13 Panoramic views INFO SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES for walkers and Daniel Reichel The man at the helm of the The Saale- diners Landgrafen restaurant Read the hole story at Walking is thirsty work! After such www.visit-jena.de/en exertions, a cold shandy, a bratwurst Horizontale trail or an ice cream are just the thing. Walkers on the western part of the SaaleHorizontale walking trail like to stop off at the Landgrafen restau- up here,” Daniel Reichel laughs, with a nod to the A walker’s paradise blue skies above. “In the winter we do get cut off rant. Affectionately known as ‘Jena’s quite easily – just a few snowflakes seem to be all balcony’, Landgrafen hill with its it takes. But even then it is glorious at the top of The chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves and nothing but fresh, clean air. That’s what you the hill.” He recommends that guests call ahead if can expect on the SaaleHorizontale walking trail around Jena. This is where you come to spectacular views across the city cen- they’re in any doubt. tre and the Saale valley is also pop- switch off, recharge your batteries and have a complete change of scene. Olaf Schubert knows Walkers are very welcome at the Landgrafen. The this area better than anyone. He has worked as the municipal forester in Jena for more than ular with wedding parties. Whatever beer garden adjacent to the restaurant is ideal for a brings them there, Daniel Reichel, the well-earned break. A shady spot, forest all around 20 years. Among other things, he is responsible for maintaining the walking trails. Even after you, panoramic views across the valley, and food so many years, he is still captivated by the landscape of fields, forests and hills surrounding proprietor of the Landgrafen restau- and drink on hand – what better way to top up your rant, is always happy to welcome any energy reserves and return to the SaaleHorizontale the trail. “Every section is special in its own right.” 72 kilometres of pure walking pleasure. walking trail reinvigorated. Parties with children guests. should consider a detour to the nearby forest play- ground. The beer garden opens on the first sunny Daniel Reichel has been running the Landgrafen weekend of the year and welcomes visitors every restaurant since 2014. A qualified chef with a Saturday and Sunday until well into the autumn, degree in business administration, he spent several depending on the weather. years managing a catering firm, but was always on the lookout for a suitable venue for a restaurant. As soon as the sun is out, visitor numbers on You walk through unspoilt A large part of the walking trail runs through nature conservation When the Landgrafen became available, he didn’t Landgrafen hill shoot up, especially on weekends. areas. The SaaleHorizontale is a habitat for animals large and small. think twice. The concept, the location, the furnish- The beer garden fills up quickly, and there are deciduous forests that Fascinating species such as eagle owls, wildcats, partridges, king- ings – everything was just perfect. barely enough tables and chairs in the restaurant fishers and bats are all native to this area. The countryside around and on its terrace. The first and last sunny days of are unparalleled in their Jena is also famous for its wealth of orchids, which are a highlight on Why a hilltop restaurant? Wouldn’t a city centre the year are particularly popular with walkers and any spring walk. There is a good chance of seeing a particular kind of location have made things easier? “When it’s nice casual visitors keen to enjoy the fresh air and the composition. Here, you find plant or a rare species of animal on a walk along the trail. out you get fantastic views across the city from magnificent vistas.

species of trees as they existed Climbing up to the SaaleHorizontale walking trail, you have some thousands of years ago. stunning views. You can see far into the Saale valley, with its colour- ful meadows, ancient rocks, pine groves and beech trees. The castles and palaces make for very special vantage points: Kunitzburg, the Hilltop inns and restaurants Palaces Dornburg Palaces and the castle ruins of Lobdeburg are well worth discovering. You never lose sight of Jena, which can easily be reached from anywhere along the trail. Why not combine an excursion into the Situated on the edge of a limestone plateau, countryside with a culinary experience? the park and palaces offer splendid views of the INFO For Olaf Schubert, it’s very important that people develop an under- A number of wonderful inns and restau- Saale valley. The three palaces date from different standing of nature: “A visitor who recognises the beauty of nature rants high above the Saale river offer tra- periods (Gothic, Renaissance and Rococo), and Olaf Schubert will also treat it with respect. The most important thing for me is that ditional cuisine and a friendly welcome. are linked to Emperor Otto I, as well as Duke Carl Municipal forester when people go walking they are encouraged to learn about nature. But it’s the magnificent panoramic views August of Saxe-- and his privy Allowing the forest to follow its natural cycle is part of this. That of Jena that make the Lobdeburgklause, councillor, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. The Read the hole story at means that there are also dead trees here. Owls, woodpeckers and Fuchsturm, Wilhelmshöhe, Jenzighaus surrounding park is laid out across five terrac- www.visit-jena.de/en small mammals live in, with and from biotopes such as these. Animals and Landgrafen truly special. es, modelled on French and English examples. and plants work in harmony together and create the natural cycle Among its splendid features are steep vineyards, that also makes it possible for us to live,” he explains. more than 2,000 rose bushes, and shady pergolas.

14 15 Explorers and adventurers SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES

Enjoy a complete change of Cycling scenery and simply let yourself drift away, in a canoe or a rubber dinghy. All types of water tourers in the Saale are well catered for in Jena.

There are few other cities that can rival Jena when it comes to taking to the water – in a canoe, kayak, valley rubber dinghy or on a stand-up paddle board – and enjoying the views. On this quiet stretch of the Saale river you can explore Jena itself, along with many other destinations in the surrounding region. The options on offer range from short tours of the city to half-day or full-day excursions venturing further afield. The various waterways lead through Go with pretty valleys, past steep limestone cliffs, with picturesque picnic areas, castles, palaces and other attractions. Depending on the type of tour, the price may also include transfers, equipment and Explore Jena by bike – as a sporting activity Saale Cycle Route luggage containers as well as an induction to get or on a leisurely bike tour. An extensive net- you started. the flow First launched at the 1994 Bavarian Regional Garden Show in , work of cycling trails runs right through the the Saale Cycle Route has been linking the federal states of , Thuringia and Saxony-Anhalt for more than a quarter of a century. heart of the city, with routes branching off Reason enough to get on your bike and explore it! The Saale Cycle in every direction. Cyclists can combine sev- Route runs for a total of 403 kilometres, from the source of the Saale in the to Barby near , where the eral attractions on one route and enjoy mag- Saale flows into the . Along the way it follows one of Germany’s nificent vistas along the way. Jena lies at most romantic rivers. This delightful route allows cyclists to com- If you are spending more than just a Leuchtenburg Castle Cathedral bine the pleasures of nature with cultural and culinary highlights. weekend in Jena, we would strongly the crossroads of two long-distance routes, Magnificent panoramic views across the Fichtel Mountains, the The ‘Queen of the Saale Valley’ – for nearly Naumburg’s Cathedral of St Peter and St the Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route and the , and the Saale Canyon reward recommend that you also explore the a thousand years, Leuchtenburg Castle Paul is one of Europe’s most important cyclists for conquering the sometimes steep inclines. The moun- neighbouring towns and cities, as well has been sitting in splendour almost 400 cultural monuments from the High Middle attractive Saale Cycle Route. These connect tainous section near the source of the river is particularly popular metres above the Saale valley. Here, the Ages, and attracts large numbers of visitors to other cycle paths that can be combined with more athletic riders. Further north the hills are gentler and as the surrounding region. We just Middle Ages meet modern architecture, to the town. The cathedral, built in the the cycling becomes less strenuous. The Saale Cycle Route leads know that you’ll love this very special design, and above all porcelain. Artisans late Romanesque and early Gothic styles, as required to form individual circular tours. through the heart of glorious landscapes, but also right through from around the world have created seven is renowned for the remarkable statues of German history. Museums, castles, palaces and ruins line the part of Thuringia. You will be surprised porcelain experiences that combine to form its founders in the west chancel, created by route, which also crosses the former border between East and West what else you can find and explore in a memorable interactive exhibition. There the Naumburg Master. In the treasure vault, Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route Germany. Jena, the city of light, in its idyllic setting between lime- are also festivals, guided tours, and food you can embark on a journey back through stone cliffs and the Saaleaue plain, is definitely worth an extended addition to the city of light. Enchanting and drink – every aspect of the castle is almost a thousand years of cathedral This cycle route combines some of Thuringia’s most beautiful stopover. No matter which direction you choose from Jena, both the villages along the Saale river, towns worth a visit in itself. And on the 20-metre history, and the cathedral garden is a lovely countryside, towns and cities. For around 230 kilometres it takes stage to Naumburg and the one to in the opposite direction ‘skywalk’ dreams may come true. place for a stroll. you to historical centres, visitor attractions and cultural highlights. are sure to be worth your while. The cycle route is divided into nine and cities like Weimar and Erfurt, and Retrace the steps of two towering intellectuals on a tour from Schil- stages, each one a cycling adventure in its own right. also many castles, palaces and muse- ler’s summer house in Jena to Goethe’s summer house in Weimar Park on the river . Or head eastwards to discover one of the ums are just waiting to be discovered. prettiest sections of the route, the idyllic scenery of the Zeitzgrund More information on water-based activities on the river Saale, INFO conservation area. The entire route is served by excellent rail links, and on other days out, is available at www.visit-jena.de/en making it very easy to access individual sections.

16 17 Child’s SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES play!

Discovering nature with children For families with children, Jena’s amenities make the city something close to paradise. The vast Paradies Park on the river Saale is only a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Jena, with extensive lawns, adventure playgrounds, cycle paths, slacklining and a skatepark. Jena prides itself on being a family-friendly city. Visitors and newcomers are Trixi Trias dinosaur trail A specially developed smartphone app often surprised by the sheer variety of facilities on offer. There are local youth centres, brings dinosaurs to life – simply download it Did dinosaurs once roam in Jena? This and off you go! Your mobile phone becomes child-friendly leisure activities, comprehensive childcare options and a wide range of educational trail is sure to convince any a time machine. The red dino mascot Trixi different schools. So perhaps it’s not all that surprising that Jena has one of the highest doubters. The many informative and enter- Trias is your guide along the 2.2 kilometre taining way stations make it easy to follow discovery trail which starts in Jena Ost birth rates of any town or city in Thuringia. in the footsteps of the dinosaurs. Along the at the foot of Jenzig hill. By the way, the way, you also learn what the local landscape developer of the virtual dinosaur world – used to look like during that period, and Jena-based company Rooom – was awarded which parts of it still remain today. the 2019 Thuringian Tourism Prize.

Imaginata Clever little Ux

See, hear, touch and experiment – the Imaginata is an ideal place to TIP At 18 points of interest along this exciting family walking trail, children learn fascinat- explore scientific phenomena, and stimulates all of our senses in a variety There are lots of activities for children, young ing facts about Jena’s Stadtwald forest from of ways. This large activity park puts science at your fingertips. Take to the people and families in Jena throughout the tightrope for some high wire cycling, explore the Hörbar (audible bar) and year. Energetic, creative, educational or just the clever little fox Ux and his mother Lyn. the Tastbar (tactile bar), grow from a dwarf into a giant over a short dis- fun – it’s all here. The family walking event, The forest is home to a wide variety of ani- tance, or wind your way through the light labyrinth – there are fascinating a reading marathon and the family festival mals, trees and other plants, all just waiting things to investigate all around you. At every interactive station there is ‘Your day in paradise’ are just some of the to be discovered. Children learn why a fox’s something new to think about. highlights. The Jena Philharmonic Orchestra burrow has different passages, why wild and the Theaterhaus have special children’s boar like to wallow in mud, and what exactly programmes in their repertoire. Fascinating How do the triangular Reuleaux wheels roll? What is Leonardo’s bridge, a forester does. They can climb up into a shows at the Zeiss Planetarium transport raised outlook or hide inside the witch’s and why is it such a stable construction? What makes it impossible to catch you to the far reaches of the cosmos. Sitting den. And even the grown-ups can learn a a ball on the Coriolis Carousel? Independent experimentation stimulates bored at home or in your hotel room? No way! visitors’ imagination and creativity. All sorts of phenomena are made much thing or two. The ‘Schlauer Ux’ walking trail easier to understand thanks to their accessible presentation. Children of More information is available at is lots of fun for all ages. It is two kilometres every age, and their parents too, discover the limits of our perception and www.visit-jena.de/en long and runs through the forest from Bis- explore how our senses help us relate to the world around us – all while markturm tower to Otto-Schott-Platz. having lots of fun! There’s guaranteed to never be a dull moment!

18 19 CULTURE

A cultural Where experience to today?

Culture buffs will be in their element in Jena, with events at the Kulturarena, a visit to the Kunstsammlung gallery, an entertaining evening at the theatre or a concert by the Jena Philharmonic Orchestra. The cultural encounters on offer will transport you to exciting new worlds. That’s how we do culture in Jena.

To the Kulturarena! To the TRAFO!

The sound of Jena’s Philharmonic Orchestra Concerts do not 50 days, over 30 events and more than 70,000 visitors: Engage with contemporary art in a the Kulturarena Jena open-air festival takes over the former electricity substation in Jena. necessarily have to city during the summer months. It’s pretty much a From substation to arts venue – TRAFO Simon Gaudenz is an award-wining conductor, nature enthusiast and last two hours, and separate season in itself, when the locals and visitors on Nollendorfer Strasse represents Jena newcomer, but he’s still Swiss at heart. Since the start of the to the city of light join together to celebrate one long transformation and change. A grand you don’t always party through July and August. This event has featured piano takes centre stage, surrounded 2018/2019 season he has also been Music Director Designate of the numerous stars over the years, from Patti Smith and by comfortable cinema-style seating, Jena Philharmonic Orchestra. Gaudenz is excited about connecting with need to turn up in John McLaughlin to Rubén Gonzáles. The schedule and there’s an improvised bar in the contains everything from plays, classical concerts and foyer – a most congenial meeting of audiences, moving beyond the mainstream, and creating a unique Jena formal wear. intimate acoustic gigs to children’s activities, a club Germany’s late 19th century industrial sound with his orchestra. night series and film nights on days when no concerts architecture and modern art. Since are taking place. the building was refurbished in 2015, TRAFO has become an integral part of Jena’s artistic and cultural life, hosting solo musicians and bands, and staging What musical ideas would you like to imple- What was the attraction of working in Jena art projects, workshops and exhibi- ment? as a conductor? To the Philharmonic! tions of all kinds. It’s a great place for visitors, artists and other partners to I am contemplating a repertoire of yearning: First and foremost, the musicians. After all, it is Passion, total commitment and a sheer love of playing develop ideas, bring them to life or a selection of works that are – for many people – all about playing music with other people. We – an encounter with the Jena Philharmonic Orchestra simply to admire them. the very reason for coming to a concert. They are play for people but we also play together with is quite an experience. The orchestra opens up a pieces that they know and love. And the trick is people. The potential, the passion for playing, breathtaking musical world to its audience. The varied then to be able to surprise visitors as well with and the high calibre that this orchestra already programme ranges from baroque to jazz, with a focus a repertoire that is rarely played. possesses – those were the things that persuaded on classical pieces, the Romantic period and the music me to come to Jena. I also see great potential of the 20th and 21st centuries. Hardly surprising then INTERVIEW How would you like to make the orchestra for creating things that we don’t yet have. Being that concerts are not just held in the newly restored art To the Kassa! more relevant? flexible, going out to the people – there are many nouveau hall of the Volkshaus, but also at more unusual Simon Gaudenz opportunities open to us, as nothing is set in venues, such as former substation TRAFO, the Volksbad Kassablanca Gleis 1 is one of Jena’s most popular clubs thanks to the wide range General Music Director One of our goals is to bring people to us, into the stone. There is a lot of momentum right now. arts centre or the town hall. Resounding works with of events it hosts. ‘Kassa’ attracts the type of act that you might expect to see at a Volkshaus. But that cannot be the only solution. Young people usually bring new momentum with choirs and full orchestra, chamber concerts, the Sound bigger venue, and also provides a stage to unknown talent that often turns out to The full interview is available at We also need to actively reach out to people. them, as well as the hunger, desire and will to of Jena festival and concerts for children and families be a real find. Club nights such as Schöne Freiheit, Überschall and Blue Night of- www.visit-jena.de/en Find out where they like to go, and then meet bring about change. – immerse yourself in the inspirational musical world of fer the perfect contrast to the concerts and ensure that there’s plenty of musical them there. the Jena Philharmonic. variety for you to enjoy.

20 21 We try to

put together CULTURE evenings that are fun and moving, that energise people.

Mr Bart, you have been living in Jena Your plays deal with local issues, with – spend time with family? with your family since the summer of the arrival in Jena and in Thuringia. We like to run from the Napoleon Stone 2018. And your partner Lizzy Timmers The view from outside challenges to Cospeda and along the river, or also appears on stage at the Theaterhaus. ingrained habits and provokes the up Jenzig hill on the dinosaur path with Does the city feel like home to you? audience. How have Jena audiences our son. reacted? We are really happy here, thank you. We Do you have a tip for people on short love the mix of city and nature, and we go Jena audiences are very curious and breaks? What should definitely be on everywhere by bike, just like in Amster- open-minded. It does feel a bit odd for a their to-do list in Jena? dam. So far, the people here have been Dutch person to explain to a Thuringian just great. We have been welcomed with what dumplings are, but it’s a lot of fun. In the summer you really ought to have open arms. It is lovely to be playing to people who a picnic on the Saale river, or a drink at are not yet familiar with our work. Strand 22. And Café Wagner, Trafo and You were born in Rotterdam, have lived Kassablanca are not to be missed. With and worked in Berlin, and you also run If you had to persuade new ensemble children, we find that the Imaginata is another venue with Wunderbaum in members to come to Jena, what would hard to beat. Milan. Those are all big cities with a you tell them? What makes life in Jena diverse cultural life. What prompted so appealing? you to come to a smaller city and apply to run the Theaterhaus in Jena? Jena is green. The city is small, but really vibrant. It has forests and good cafés. We were keen to work here because the At the moment we wouldn’t want to live mindset and the whole climate at the anywhere else! theatre are fantastic. Theaterhaus Jena Theatre has been working with collectives for years. What are your favourite places in Jena? Its history inspired us. In the 1990s, they Where do you go to ran this ‘Yes’ campaign here. Our dream is for all of Jena to think: “Yes, theatre, – find new ideas? that’s cool.” For us, making theatre means To parties hosted by Freude am Tanzen, creating something that’s alive. We try to to friends’ homes. put together evenings that are fun and should be fun moving, that energise people. – blow away the cobwebs? To Landgrafen hill, into the woods. Jena Theaterhaus is renowned for its experimentation and its young ensemble. In October 2018, The Wunderbaum performances in Jena are receiving rave reviews. They – eat or drink something really good? the Dutch collective Wunderbaum took over its artistic direction. Outspoken or with tongue mention humour, self-depreciation For cake at Café Immergrün. firmly in cheek, the plays they stage offer plenty of variety – sometimes gloriously entertaining, and Dutch charm. How do you do it? What is the secret of entertaining – enjoy nature? sometimes critical and thoughtful. Definitely worth a look. theatre? We go for a run in the woods every week; Lizzy likes to ride her bike, for example We always work with current political top- to Weimar or along the Saale river. ics, and we write our own plays, because we believe that this way of working allows – meet friends? us to create a direct connection to our With children to the garden at Café The full interview is available at audience. We have a young and talented Grünowski, and to the theatre café, INFO www.visit-jena.de/en ensemble, and that inspires us! of course.

22 23 A day at the museum SPORTS

How about a museum tour? Jena’s many museums bring the city’s rich and varied history vividly to life – and not just on a rainy day. Goethe and Schiller, the philosophers Schelling and Fichte, the scientist Haeckel and the notable industrialists Zeiss, Abbe and Schott are just some of the famous individuals whose work has made Jena the vibrant and exciting place it is today. Embark on a journey of discovery!

1 3 6

1. Schiller’s summer house 6. Schott Villa

Numerous ballads and large parts of the The Schott Villa, once the home of Wallenstein trilogy were written in the influential scientist, technologist and quiet seclusion of Schiller’s summer industrialist Otto Schott, has an exhibi- house. As well as the house where Schiller tion documenting his rich and varied life. Passion lived, you can also see his garden house Other exhibitions give visitors insights and kitchen house. The garden still into the eventful history of the Schott has the old stone table where Schiller company, now a global technology group. From keen athletes to those who favour a more hands-off approach and Goethe often sat and exchanged thoughts. 4 to sports, all comers are well catered for in Jena. Sport is something 7. Goethe Museum of a passion here. And there are plenty of opportunities to achieve 2. Museum of Phylogenetics The great poet is closely linked to the city new personal bests, and to burn off some energy by running, rowing of Jena. He would normally stay at the or climbing, or simply by cheering on your team in the stadium. The Museum of Phylogenetics explores the 4. Jena Municipal Museum ducal palace, later also at the Grüne Tanne evolutionary development of a wide range & Art Collection inn, and between 1817 and 1822 at the of species, including sponges, corals, inspector’s house in the botanical garden, lobsters, tigers and even humans. The Jena Municipal Museum is housed in a his ‘retreat on the hill of flowers and 500,000 or so exhibits and series include late-Gothic building on the north side plants’ as he called it. Objects of his sci- fossils and other evidence of extinct of the market square. Its permanent and entific work can be seen there, as Goethe animal species, as well as a whole host of one-off exhibitions have been exploring also dealt with geology, botany, chemistry birds and mammals. Today, the biodiver- aspects of Jena’s history since 1986. Ex- and anatomy. Football male counterparts, and FF USV Jena has Running sity of insects is a key area of research for hibits include the first black, red and gold been among the best clubs in German wom- the museum, which was founded in 1907 flag, the colours of which were to become Carl Zeiss Jena beating Roma four nil? Abso- en’s football for years. Kernberg Run, Jena Duathlon, triathlon, by zoologist Ernst Haeckel. the symbol of the democratic movement lutely! This legendary cup tie in 1980 is one — relay races, mountain runs and a 100km in Germany. of Jena’s finest footballing hours. Back then, in 24 hours challenge. There are few cities 3. Romanticist House thanks to their creativity and fighting spirit, Basketball that offer as many different attractive and 5. Archaeological Collection Carl Zeiss Jena overcame the astonished demanding running events as Jena. For The world’s only museum on Early Roman- PLEASE NOTE Italians, who were three nil up from the first Basketball is gaining popularity with fans many sports enthusiasts these events are ticism is a memorial to a famous Roman- The Schwarz‘sches Haus, which dates leg of a European Cup Winners’ Cup tie, and in Jena – thanks to the success of the local what first bring them to Jena, where they ticists’ meeting in 1799. The exhibition back to the 16th century, hosts regularly Jena Municipal Museum will be closed made it all the way to the final. In 2020, it is team. The team of Science City Jena has been are often surprised to discover the impres- depicts the intellectual climate that changing exhibitions that feature items for renovation from April 2020 for the 40th anniversary of this ‘game of games’. playing in the German national basketball sive natural scenery all around the city. allowed Early Romanticism to flourish. from Jena University‘s antiquity collec- approximately six months. The Goethe To this day, the faces of football-loving locals league since the 2016/2017 season. Home It conveys Jena’s paramount importance tion or that focus on current topics in Museum is also being renovated. Please still light up as they recall the details of this games take place at the Sparkassen Arena in check with Jena Tourist Information to in the period around 1800, but also the archaeology. ‘miracle of Jena’ – even if they’d barely been Jena-Burgau, which holds more than 3,000 find out details about closures or see born at the time! Jena’s women’s football spectators – just the right size for getting connection between the Early Romanticist www.visit-jena.de/en for information. interpretations of nature, poetry, philoso- team also has many devoted fans. The team swept up in the sporting excitement and the phy and art. is considerably more successful than their great atmosphere.

24 25 Bric-à-brac and second-hand market Markets and EVENTS There has been a growing interest in flea markets in recent years, with some real treasures to be found among the objects festivals on sale. The popularity of the bric-à-brac and second-hand markets in Jena’s city centre extends beyond the local region, and they attract many thousands of visitors Strolling, browsing, exploring, tasting and chatting: to the city every month. Known as the Markets provide a most agreeable setting for a host Trödelmarkt and Jahrmarkt in German, they offer everything from antiques and of different social interactions. In Jena, the various collectors’ items to books, textiles, shoes markets present both locals and visitors with a dizzy- and accessories. ing array of products, crafts and tastes. — Christmas market

It’s not surprising how many visitors make their way to Jena in the run-up to Christ- mas. At more than 100 seasonally decorated Market day! Old town festival Pottery market stalls they can obtain all the large and small treasures, gifts and treats guaranteed Dance and shows, live music from blues and From traditional and modern crockery to to get them into the festive spirit. Jena’s rock’n’roll all the way to brass bands – for one-off pieces, ornaments, musical instru- Christmas market has a history going back Flowers and plants, traditional Thuringian sausages, honey, eggs, organic produce and ten days every year Jena’s historical market ments and toys, the Jena pottery market 200 years, and is one of the most beautiful square is transformed into a party zone. The (Töpfermarkt) is a remarkable showcase markets in Thuringia. In time-honoured plenty more besides – when the traders from the surrounding area set out their varied spreads annual old town festival, the Altstadtfest, for the pottery trade. Around 70 potters tradition, it opens with the first cut into of regional products around the Hanfried statue it must be market day in Jena. Today, we’re attracts tens of thousands of people from present a broad spectrum of their creative a giant, four-metre-long stollen cake, fol- near and far. Eichplatz square buzzes with output on the historical market square. As lowed by carols from a brass band. With the following a loyal market customer on his rounds. Come and join us at the ‘Green Market’. activity – the funfair with a towering big well as opportunities to look behind the huge, brightly illuminated Christmas tree in wheel is an absolute must. There is also a scenes, there are many hands-on activities the middle of the historical market square, mouthwatering selection of regional and – including for children. the region’s tallest Christmas pyramid on international food and drink. Eichplatz square, and the historical Christ- — mas market between St John’s Gate and the — Market days Pulverturm tower, Jena’s Christmas market Spring fair is perfect for browsing or simply whiling Also known as the ‘green markets’, Jena’s away the hours. Weekend at last! Every Saturday, is quickly made: some pineapple sage with a asparagus from Kutzleben, vegetables from As the merry month of May begins in the market days offer a wide variety of products keen cook Wolfram Lützner cycles fresh, fruity scent ends up in his cycle pannier. and Erfurt, fruit from Gierstädt – and all Thuringian city of Jena it signals the start from the surrounding region. An extensive at a reliably high quality. This is the place to go of the spring fair in the historical old range of organic foods, seasonal fruit and to the market, as early as pos- The route then goes via the bakers’ vans with for anyone looking for seasonal ingredients. quarter. Jena’s spring fair, the Frühling- vegetables and a large selection of dairy INFO sible, when there are few people their tasty traybakes, and via the butchers Currants, plums, gherkins, sauerkraut – the smarkt, is a celebration for all ages and all products, along with the Thuringian meat offering typical Thuringian specialities. A loaf small but diverse product range encourages backgrounds – a festival for everyone. The and sausage specialities that are popular For more information see around and the stalls are still of bread from an organic stall here, a jar of spontaneous purchases for the weekend. programme is captivating, varied and guar- throughout Germany, attract large numbers www.visit-jena.de/en offering their full range. He is big summer-harvested honey there, and some eggs anteed to entertain. You can look forward of shoppers every week. from a local farmer – our guide takes his time A quick chat at the Tultewitz cheese stall. to fantastic food and drink, live music, a on products that are fresh, locally as he ambles through the market and looks for Volker Rieke and his wife Berit have devoted film night at the open-air cinema, and a inspiration. themselves to sheep’s cheese. At their cheese lively funfair. sourced and of the highest quality. dairy in Tultewitz near Naumburg they produce The next stop is Günter Töteberg’s vegetable excellent unpasteurized cheese, cream cheese, — His first stop is Jena gardener Jürgen Müller. stall. The friendly trader is always ready with yogurt, feta and ricotta – all made from the Wood market Müller’s colourful assortment of plants is set up a joke and soon has his customer engaged in milk of their own sheep. The cheese specialists outside the town hall, and his broad-rimmed conversation. He gets his produce locally – like to experiment with herbs and olives, and Wood is an incredible natural material hat makes him easy to spot from a distance. He regularly surprise their customers with new that often doesn’t get the appreciation it doesn’t just sell bedding and balcony plants, flavours. Our market guide samples a full-fla- deserves. That was the original idea behind but also perennials, vegetables and herbs. voured Tomme de Brebis. Simply delicious! the Jena wood market – the Holzmarkt. Above all, he provides excellent advice. Müller There is plenty to see and do, including takes his time with his customers and expertly For Wolfram Lützner, the Saturday market exciting demonstrations, hands-on activi- answers any questions. Hardy tarragon, old tour is his start to the weekend. By now he ties, and an introduction to traditional and Peruvian tomato varieties, artichokes – anyone knows the entire product range and most of modern occupations involving wood. Craft looking for something a bit special is sure to the stallholders. Chatting to traders, meeting stalls from a range of exhibitors invite you find it at his stall, and they can rely on the gar- friends and like-minded people, drinking an al to browse, buy or have a go yourself. There dener’s hints and tips, because Müller knows fresco coffee in the sun, enjoying the relaxed are also plenty of activities to keep younger how the plants will react to local conditions and atmosphere and taking life as it comes – that’s visitors happy. what care they require to thrive. His parti- the market vibe in Jena! cular speciality are herbs. Lützner’s decision

26 27 SHOPPING

Shopping

Shopping centres, small stores, cafés and restau- with a vision rants – it’s the right bal- ance that counts. Hannes Wolf is in charge of look- ing after the interests of everyone in the city centre on behalf of ‘Initiative Innenstadt’ (city centre Jena city centre is meant to be attrac- tive for residents and visitors. What Try ordering initiative). In this inter- plans and projects by the city centre a Thuringian initiative promote this? view he describes what is bratwurst fresh Shopping important to him. Our members are the ones who give the city centre its appeal in the first place. Try off the grill from to imagine a city without shops, cafés and Why do people go shopping in Jena restaurants. That is just inconceivable, and Amazon. Not a Some thrilling holiday reading, fashion from famous stores or unique boutiques, sports these days? in any case the opposite of what you’d ex- equipment suitable for adventures in the Saale valley, or a personal souvenir for your pect from an attractive city. A lot of passion chance! So you’re There are more than 300 shops in Jena and commitment goes into the work that better off coming loved ones back home? Jena offers all this and more, because in addition to its many city centre. And that’s not even counting retailers and restaurateurs are doing on a attractions, museums and picturesque scenery, the city is also a great place to shop. the various cafés and restaurants that daily basis. to us. can sweeten – or spice up – your shopping trip. We’ve got the fashion chains in the Anything that’s left is invested into the city centre, we have one large shopping initiative. We organise events and activi- mall and two smaller ones, and we have ties, and ensure, for example, that Sunday is a vibrant bustle of young people between many independently run stores scattered shopping dates are well publicised. We the new Inselplatz campus and the various throughout central Jena that are real actively participate in urban planning and university satellites across the entire city insider’s tips. Contrary to public percep- we have the attention of local government centre. One tram a minute stops at the new tion, bedding and men’s fashion is also and politicians. The main issue for us at Löbdergraben/Saalstrasse central tram Anyone in need of a change after a heavy sightseeing itinerary Jena offers a wide range of shopping, from well-stocked book available. We can certainly hold our own the moment is to make the city centre station. The S-Bahn-Saale shuttle runs from might want to try a leisurely stroll across the market square and shops to brand-name stores, delightful independent shops and in comparison with the region. The people easily accessible, be it by public transport, Paradies train station every 15 minutes. through the surrounding shopping streets. And if the weather is specialist retailers. And there is always a cosy café nearby, perfect who live in Jena itself are proud of their by bike, car or on foot. The strategy of going for growth has been a below par then Jena’s shopping malls and arcades, such as the for a short break with a proper cup of coffee and a delicious piece city centre. complete success. Jena has a population of Goethe Galerie, come into their own. Well protected against the of cake. It all adds up to an ideal way to spend a relaxed day’s What does the future hold for shopping 130,000 that is continuing to rise. elements they are perfect for non-stop shopping. shopping. The architectural variety on offer, from the in Jena? JenTower to St Michael’s Church, all framed The locals do all their shopping in the city by verdant hills, is the final touch that Eichplatz square has been developed. The centre and often don’t actually remember makes shopping in Jena such a joy. And three new high-rise towers have earned how to get to Erfurt and ! And even try ordering a Thuringian bratwurst fresh Jena the nickname ‘Manhattan of the East’. for people from those bigger cities, Jena is For more tips see off the grill from Amazon. Not a chance! So Great shops and exciting gastro concepts an insider’s tip for a very special shopping INFO www.visit-jena.de/en you’re better off coming to us. have opened on their ground floors. There trip.

28 29 Jen Ramen – a culinary journey to Japan

It’s three o’clock in the afternoon at Jen Ramen. The lunchtime rush is FOOD AND DRINK over and restaurant owner Masami Rudolph has time for a chat. Tomor- row’s soup is bubbling away in the kitchen; the Japanese chef and his staff are polishing the work surfaces and preparing the ingredients for the evening. When Masami Rudolph from Japan opened her restaurant Jen Ramen in 2016, right by the market square, the idea was to make a home for herself in Jena. She had been working as an ENT doctor in Hannover and Ulm for many years. When she came to Jena with her family she wanted to start something new. Nowadays it can be hard to find a lunchtime space in the small restaurant with its open kitchen. Word about the excellent quality of the ramen soup has clearly got A taste around. But what exactly is ramen? ‘Ra’ means squeezed dough, and ‘men’ is noodle, explains the friendly owner. The nourishing noodle soup originated in China, but in the 19th century the Japanese developed a Danish inspiration taste for it and adapted the idea. Today there are a wide range of ramen styles, with significant regional differences even within Japan itself. “That is the great thing about this soup – its sheer diversity! One bowl is „Hygge is a Danish concept that is impossi- of Jena enough to fill you up, and it provides energy as well as vitamins.” ble to translate. The word describes a spe- To begin with, Masami Rudolph had to experiment to discover what cial kind of cosy feeling, the idea of slowing Eating and drinking is surely one of life’s greatest pleasures. exactly the people of Jena liked. She didn’t want to offer sushi, even though this disappointed the first diners. How about a hearty pork down and enjoying things with all your Anyone who enjoys fine food and drink will discover a wealth of broth? No such luck, although Thuringians normally enjoy robust, sa- senses. And it is now available in Jena, at culinary options in Jena. Here, food and drink means not just Jena voury food. These days, a broth of chicken and pork bones with plenty of vegetables forms the basis of her delicious ramen. Vegan options Holz & Hygge, a café and shop selling wood- warm hospitality and traditional Thuringian specialities, but are also available. The boss buys her vegetables at the market on her en furniture in a Nordic design – the first also contemporary cuisine and concepts from all over the world. doorstep, the meat and eggs are from Bucha. She makes her own fresh of its kind in the region. So while Franziska hotspots noodles, using a special machine imported from Japan. The main ingre- dient is spelt flour. A fusion of regional produce and Japanese cuisine Weiland spoils guests with warm cinnamon in Jena – a very tasty combination! buns and coffee they can try out the chairs and look at the wooden lamps, and then buy them if they like them. Architect Stefan Weiland is also ready to offer his expertise. Danny Müller is a philosopher At a young age, you traded philosophy for We need something sweet! Ideally some- a life at sea. Why? thing typical of the local area and we’d Originally from Jena, Franziska and Stefan Weiland have and a globetrotter, a barkeeper rather not wait! Where do we need to go? imported the authentic hygge lifestyle from Denmark, and a sailor, but above all he is “Because life happens out there.” A philoso- where the two have been living and working for the past phy graduate, he travelled around the world Head to the famous old Kaffeehaus Gräfe, few years. “We were able to gather all sorts of inspiration a pretty down-to-earth sort of for seven years, including a year in Oman, where you can enjoy a wide choice of home- about the Nordic art of natural living in Copenhagen,” says guy. Jena born and bred, he has and got to know all kinds of people, cultures made cakes from the patisserie together with Franziska Weiland. “Wood is by far the most important and countries. He embraced the different coffee or tea. Or visit 401-Waffeln & Co., a material in that.” They like to emphasise the fact that run the Weintanne in Jena with sights and sounds, listened to different sto- Jena institution that brings smiles to the their products combine timeless design with sustainable Marco Kühl since 2014 and he ries, and made new friends. But in the end, faces of children and grown-ups alike. production. “We know most of our designers and their he made the decision to return home: It does waffles if you hadn’t already workshops personally, and have specifically chosen every mixes the best cocktails in the “I didn’t want to wake up one morning and guessed! And not forgetting the UniCafé, single piece.” city. The building has always find I didn’t know where I belonged.” of course – an all-organic student hangout close to the university library where you can They also insist on sustainable Nordic delicacies in their been a place of encounters What’s your favourite spot in Jena? enjoy homemade cakes and soup. café. Besides Scandinavian pastries they also offer tasty between people from all walks smørrebrød. Stefan Weiland explains: “Just like with our Now that’s a tough question. I’d say you just furniture, we also put the emphasis on quality and sus- of life with different beliefs have to keep your eyes open when you’re ex- tainability when it comes to coffee. The beans come from and ideas. In short: a place for ploring the city, and don’t be afraid to stray a small roastery in Erfurt and are fair trade, and the milk from the beaten track. Stand still every now is organic, of course.” With tempting aromas and beautiful revolutionary thinkers – and it and then and take in all the sights, sounds wooden design, you don’t need to go anywhere else for still is to this day. and smells. Just go where the mood takes hygge. you. Jena has something to offer for each TIP and every moment. But it’s difficult to know exactly what you’re looking for. All you have For more tips from Danny Müller, see www.visit-jena.de/en to do is ask. To get the Jena experience – go with the flow.

30 31 Life is too Fine wines with short to drink bad wine. a long tradition FOOD AND DRINK

Sunny limestone slopes and a mild climate – the origins … as Goethe is reputed to have said. If he did, he was of winegrowing in Jena go back many centuries. certainly right, but this From müller-thurgau and pinot blanc to portugieser, realisation would hardly have been news to the people of these distinguished wines are not just popular with the Jena. The city’s inhabitants locals. If Dr Reinhard Bartsch has his way, the region’s were way ahead of the great writer in this respect, having wine production will double over the next few years. already been producing their own fine wines for centuries.

Wine from Jena is a bit of an insider’s tip for many of its vineyards. The beautiful location near the Saale river, right by the guests. How large is the city’s wine growing area at the vineyard, is simply ideal for wine events. We started off with two moment? hectares under vine in the city in 2004. If I have my way, we will have 20 hectares in a few years. That won’t be easy, as it requires We currently have eleven hectares under vine in Jena. Of course land, and people who are interested in growing wine. We are all that is only a fraction of what we used to have historically. Wine just hobby vintners, after all! has been grown in Jena for more than 800 years. Around 700 hec- tares of vineyards are documented in the records of former abbeys. Do you have any tips for locals and their guests? Where can Before the university was established in 1558, viticulture is likely they enjoy your wine, other than at a wine tasting? to have been Jena’s main source of income. We’re not aiming for mass production in Jena, not even if we reach You are the chair of the Jena Käuzchenberg cooperative. our 20 hectare target. That means we cannot guarantee restau- What is so special about your wine? rants and cafés that we will be able to supply them with our wines all year round. But we make sure that restaurants are able to stock Our grapes enjoy plenty of sunshine on their south-facing slopes, our wines for special celebrations, if their guests want them. That and they have dry soil, all of which greatly enhances the flavour. is achievable. You can enquire through our website where to buy Over the last few years we have received several medals for the high the wine, and at some wine shops or at Jena Tourist Information. quality of our wines. Jena wine is selling very well. The grapes are cultivated entirely by hand. It is virtually impossible for us to use any machinery. We don’t produce organic wine though, because our vineyards are too small to comply with certain regulations. But we do adhere to the rules of integrated cultivation, which means that we can’t just spray the grapes as and when we feel like it, but only in response to particular warnings.

Would wine lovers be able to drop in at your vineyard for a tasting?

But of course! We’ve run several wine events this year. From a wine walk in April and the Zwätzen spring wine festival in June, with tastings and a guided vineyard tour, to the vineyard open day at the start of August. We also organise individual events by arrangement. We don’t just offer fine wines, but also inter- esting locations and fascinating history. There’s the Kunitz and Käuzchenberg vineyards, the wooden Hausbrücke bridge, which is a cultural monument, and the former Zwätzen seat of the Teutonic Order (Ordenskomturei), which played an important part in local viticulture. That’s a fascinating walk. We hope that activities like the wine festivals will promote our attractions.

Could Jena eventually become a hotspot of wine tourism?

That is our vision! Just like you would take a trip out to the local vintners’ taverns while you’re in Vienna, you could be going out to The full interview is available at Kunitz from Jena. There is space for a little wine village below the INFO www.visit-jena.de/en

32 33 Plan your stay in Jena www.visit-jena.de/en Jena – green, vibrant, welcoming and always worth a visit! Our website will also help you to plan your stay and design your itinerary, That is the message we want to convey with our website and to book different activities, guided tours, or accommodation. In short, www.visit-jena.de/en. We see it as a digital shop window everything you need for your visit to that allows us to show you different aspects of our city of Jena. And in the unlikely event that you can’t find the information you are

light before your visit: the beautiful towns and villages looking for, the team at Jena Tourist DETAILSGENERAL, CONTACT CREDITS AND PRODUCTION Information will be more than happy along the river Saale, the vibrant urban lifestyle, and the to help. Call us on +49 3641 498 050 stories of the city and its people, both great and small. ANZEIGE

WHAT'S GOING ON IN AND AROUND JENA?

Any trip starts with a plan. The team at the Jena tourist information office on the historical market www.jena-veranstaltungen.de square will be happy to assist, and can provide Events in the city of Jena and its surroundings advice on the wide range of travel, accommodation and excursion options available.

Published by: Copy editing: Translation: Information and advice JenaKultur | Fachbereich Tourismus ©JenaKultur/Toma Babovic (S. 4, 24), LingServe Limited, www.lingserve.de Ticket service and vouchers Markt 16, D-07743 Jena ©Jenaparadies/André Gräf (S. 1, 12, 34), Accommodation service www.visit-jena.de/en ©FC Carl Zeiss Jena (S. 25), ©JenaKultur/ Subject to change without notice. Guided walks and guided tours Christian Häcker (S. 4, 17), ©Sternevent We are unable to guarantee the accuracy Group offers and inclusive packages Overall responsibility: GmbH/ Stefan Harnisch (S. 4), ©JenaKul- of the information provided. Souvenirs Excellent transport links Carsten Müller und Cindy Möstl, tur/Jens Hauspurg (S. 18), ©Holz&Hygge CONTACT JenaKultur (S. 31), ©JenaKultur/Andreas Hub (S. 4-5, Contact: 5, 13, 16, 19, 24, 33), ©VIADATA Photo/ Jena Tourist-Information Edited by: Holger John (S. 4), ©Kommunalservice Markt 16, D-07743 Jena,Germany Travelling to Jena couldn’t be simpler, because the to good north-south and east-west connections. Markt 16, 07743 Jena Maja Haufe, Jena (S. 19), ©JenaKultur/Roman Möbius T +49 3641 498 050, F +49 3641 498 055 city is located right in the heart of Germany, and is The local public transport network is also very Tel. +49 3641 49-8050 JenaKultur | Fachbereich Tourismus (S. 2, 3, 4, 10, 11,14, 15, 26, 31, 32, 33), [email protected], www.visit-jena.de/en easily accessible from any direction. By car it can be extensive. With trams, buses and the dial-a-ride Contentstudio, Gutenbergstraße 1 ©JenaKultur/Tina Peißker (S. 14, 21, 30), A-6858 Schwarzach, www.contentstu- ©JenaKultur/Thomas Röhler (S. 6, 7, 8, 9), Jan – Mar: Mon – Fri 10am – 6pm conveniently reached via the A4 and A9 autobahns. taxi service you are always well connected in Jena, dio.at ©Jena_Kabuff_Stoffe/MalteSchumacher Sat 10am – 3pm The nearest airport is at Erfurt, the state capital of and the whole city is easily accessible. (29), ©JenaKultur/Siomotion (S. 3, 5, Thuringia, only 70 kilometres from Jena. Leipzig- Information correct as at: July 2019 28, 29), ©Theaterhaus Jena (S. 3, 22, 23), Apr – Dec: Mon – Fri 10am – 7pm Submission deadline: July 2019 ©JenaKultur/Dirk Truckenbrodt (S. 13), Sat,Sun 10am – 3pm airport is also within easy reach. Train travel www.nahverkehr-jena.de ©JenaKultur/Christoph Worsch is very straightforward from all directions due Design/layout/typesetting: (S. 9, 20, 21, 27) Open from 10am – 3pm on public holidays, zurgams, Kommunikationsagentur GmbH throughout the year Steinebach 3, A-6850 Dornbirn Printing: Advent Saturdays: 10am – 6pm Visit us on facebook.com/visitjena www.zurgams.com strohmeyer dialog.druck GmbH (Closed: New Year’s Day, Good Friday, and instagram/visitjena 34 www.s-dd.de 1 May, 25 December) 35 No other place in Germany could be for me what Jena and its neighbourhood are, for I am convinced that nowhere else does one enjoy such true and proper freedom and such a concentration of excellent people.

Friedrich Schiller on 6 April 1795 to Christian Gottlob Voigt, Minister of State in Weimar