©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Swaziland% POP 1.3 MILLION / 268

Includes  Why Go? ...... 957 In short: big things come in small packages. The intrigu- Ezulwini Valley...... 959 ing kingdom of Swaziland is diminutive but boasts a huge Lobamba...... 960 checklist for any visitor. Rewarding wildlife-watching? Tick. Mlilwane Wildlife Adrenaline-boosting activities such as rafting and mountain Sanctuary...... 961 biking? Tick. Lively and colourful local culture, with cele- brations and ceremonies still common practice? Tick. Plus Manzini...... 962 there are superb walking trails, stunning mountain and flat- Malolotja land scenery, varied accommodation options and excellent, Nature Reserve...... 962 high-quality handicrafts. Royal Unlike , Swaziland has managed to hold on to National Park...... 963 that slow-down-this-is-Africa feeling, and that’s why it’s gain- Understand ing in popularity. Everything remains small and personable. Swaziland...... 965 Instead of making a flying visit here on your way to Kru- Survival Guide...... 966 ger National Park, KwaZulu-Natal or , consider staying at least a week to do the country justice. If you plan a visit during the winter months, try to make it coincide with the Umhlanga festival, one of Africa’s biggest cultural events. Best Places to Eat ¨¨eDladleni (p957) ¨¨Lihawu Restaurant (p960) When to Go ¨¨Ramblas Restaurant Mbabane (p957) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 12/300

30/86 Best Places to 8/200 20/68

Sleep 4/100 ¨¨Stone Camp (p965) 10/50

¨¨Sondzela Backpackers 0/32 0 (p961) J FDM A M J J A S O N

¨¨Brackenhill Lodge (p957) Dec–Apr Full Feb–Mar Buganu May–Sep Wonder- ¨¨Lidwala Backpacker Lodge rivers and lush season – enjoy ful wildlife viewing (p959) vegetation. home-brewed in the lowveld. Incwala festival marula beer in Don’t miss the ¨¨Phophonyane Falls takes place in rural Swaziland. Umhlanga festival. Ecolodge & Nature Reserve Lobamba. (p964)

)

E

U Goba

IQ

B River R (50km 2

M M O A U N T A I N S

Mhlumeni

Namaacha

Z O M L E B O M B O Maphiveni Phinduvuke )

Lusutfu r

30 km

am D Sifunga Siteki Mlawula N MR7 k

15 miles

endick

am D e Mbuluzi GR

Nsoko

yetane N

am D ck E van H Simunye Lonhlupheko Golela MR8 MR16 Usutu Rive Mhlum ) Coming ) Coming Mananga Big Bend Hlane Royal Tambankulu National Par

Tshaneni iver (p957Sibebe Rock

Hlane Royal National Hlane Royal

Phuzumoya R

Mpaka

a 0 0 River

(p963 Park with a pride face-to-face white lions of or watching at at the congregate rhinos hole. watering accessible Climbing this massive granite granite Climbing this massive the capital outside dome just views. lovely the up soaking and 7 6 King Mswati III

Game iver

R Sitilo Reserve Mkhaya Dam butini Sand International Airport River MR3 Sihhoya Usutu Malom

Dam

MR8

Mnjoli

Mbuluzane im T

Bholekane Sihlutse River Phongolo )

er Gorge River Mliba

Siphofaneni River iv

Herefords

Jeppe's Reef Jeppe's R

MR5 Bulunga

Salitje Sihultse o Matsam Mhlathuze a

Hhelehhele m

u ) Exploring ) Exploring Mpisi

Ngonini iver Lusutfu

av

Onverwacht

R r

iver w Luve Mafutseni R

e

iv SWAZILAND

MR11

M13 ti

ti

MR1 R

a

a a Ng

o

i

m v Mhlosheni

n

m e

Manzini d

h

lu o

Phophonyane Falls Phophonyane s

lo M

n o

K k

Mbuluzi

MR9 akonjw M

h Hlathikulu M

R MR26 M Valley Ezulwini

Peak Piggs

k Sidvokodvo (p959 Valley Ezulwini Mlilwane Wildlife Wildlife Mlilwane Valley

Mahlanya Dam

Lobamba Roc Grand Sibebe Browsing the valley’s craft craft valley’s the Browsing shops. Sanctuary (p961 or by horseback on foot, in the and relaxing bike lodges. comfortable 4 5 over whitewater rapids on a rapids whitewater over adventure. day-long

Maguga

Valley River Malkerns Enkhaba MR9 Ezulwini Hawane N

MBABANE pisi Matsapha MR3 Range Hawane Dam Forbes Reef y MR4 NR KWAZULU-NATAL Mgwayiza Nhlangano

Barberton River

Mantenga ahlangatsha

iver M

Ngwem Gorge Ngwempisi ne

Motjane R Luyengo

za ) Shooting

a MR18 n y Mlilwane

a Gege w 965 Ndol k 2 N Dam Malolotja Mgazini

Oshoek Lusush Luphohlo Lundzi Bhunya MR19 Mankayane Mahamba Wildlife Sanctuar Nature Reserve ) Walking or (p962) Walking Mhlambanyatsi N 17 Game Reserve National Par Nature Reserve Wildlife Sanctuar

Sandlane Great Usutu River River Usutu Great MPUMALANGA Malolotja Nature Nature Malolotja Game Reserve Mkhaya

(SOUTH AFRICA)

Piet Retief Bothashoop

Houtkop

Nerston Swaziland Highlights NP NR WS LEGEND GR Reserve hiking in this enchanting area. wilderness ) Watching wildlife, wildlife, (p964) Watching at rhinos, black including rare reserve. this excellent 3 2

1

;Swaziland Highlights p (Lusutfu River Waverley

Swaziland 956