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British Columbia's Pristine Spatsizi

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British Columbia's Pristine Spatsizi VS British Columbia’s pristine Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial Park is the size of Switzerland, but its safeguarding is in the hands of a small First Nations group, hunters, fishermen, local environmental groups and Wade Davis, Canada’s modern-day Indiana Jones. As big industry threatens to enter the Sacred Headwaters, how will this small band of sentries protect Canada’s Serengeti? By Anthony Bonello Photos by Jordan Manley ray collingwood, co-owner of Collingwood Bros. Guides & Outfitters, based in Smithers, British Columbia, cooks a freshly caught two-pound arctic grayling on the fire, while Canada’s celebrated anthropologist and ethnobotanist Wade Davis, clad in a 10-gallon hat and faded blue MEC Gore-Tex, talks. He explains how 20 kilometres upstream, the first drops of the mighty Stikine River begin their descent, first into Tuaton Lake, then Laslui Lake and past Ray’s smouldering fire before continuing to snake a further 600 kilometres to the Pacific Ocean. A solid day-long hike to the west and you’ll reach the Sacred Headwaters, the name given to the high mesa where the Nass, Skeena and Stikine Rivers are born; together they are three of the most important salmon-bearing waterways in North America. Each of them is currently threatened by development proposals that Wade Davis on the Upper Stikine River. would see a complete industrialization of the landscape. The tradi- tional peoples of the region know the simple act of communing with and eating from the land is a subtle demonstration of loyalty and resistance, and Collingwood, Davis and a host of others are trying to impart the importance of leaving this untouched wilderness alone. Rob Lesser, a nomadic whitewater kayaker in the 1970s and 80s, passed through the Sacred Headwaters and became the first person PROTECTORS to paddle the Class V to VI rapids of the Stikine River’s Grand Canyon in 1981. Regarded as the K2 of rivers, the Stikine has seen fewer than 50 people successfully paddle the canyon, an 80-kilome- tre, and at points 300-metre-deep, cobalt gouge in the earth’s sur- face. Two metres at its narrowest point and fed by significant rivers in their own right, the Tahltan, Klappan, and Spatsizi, the canyon’s OF THE SACRED summer 2012 CMC 57 THE NOTION OF taKING FROM A PLACE WHILE SIMULtaNEOUSLY PROTECTING IT maY SEEM CONTRADICTORY FROM THE OUTSIDE LOOKING IN, BUT FOR THOSE WHO USE THE LAND, IT IS HOW ONE COMES TO UNDERStaND IT. AND IT’S WHat KEEPS THEM THERE. Ray Collingwood is co-owner of Collingwood Bros. Guides & Outfitters and a staunch advocate for the preservation of the remote Spatsizi Wilderness Park he calls home. water heaves through in a deafening roar. “All the hydraulic pres- mented and understaffed provincial parks. The Spatsizi Plateau we encountered in two long seasons perhaps a dozen visitors.” Back predator-prey system of the sort that once dominated the North sure of that river is pounding through there. It’s a terrifying place,” Wilderness Provincial Park, 1.6-million acres at the heart of the then, it was for Davis an opportunity to experience the wild as John American continent. recalls Lesser from his home in Boise, Idaho. “When you go through Sacred Headwaters, has only ever had one ranger team since its cre- Muir had in all of his travels. Following his post, Davis spent time with the Collingwoods it, you come away changed. The place impresses itself upon the ation in 1975. Back then, half of that team was Wade Davis, famed In 1879, when naturalist and author Muir took a paddlewheeler while researching for a book. During this period, he deepened activity. It imprints on you. It’s a lifetime experience.” for his research in the traditional use of psychotropic drugs and the up the lower third of the Stikine, he described it as “a Yosemite a his connection to the land and its people, particularly a charis- What is the pinnacle of whitewater kayaking for Lesser, the Haitian Vodoun tradition, among other things. hundred miles long.” Muir never made it past the Grand Canyon matic Gitxsan elder named Alex Jack. Jack was unwilling to share Stikine’s Grand Canyon is also a length of plumbing integral to the “Our job description was deliciously vague: wilderness assess- to the Spatsizi, a plateau that supports spectacular populations of his stories initially, and Davis relates his experience earning Jack’s drainage of the Sacred Headwaters. One might expect that a place ment and public relations,” recounts Davis of his 1978 posting to Osborne caribou, moose, bears, wolves and the largest lambing confidence. The story follows that a hunter had shot a moose of such relative splendour would be a crown jewel on Canada’s Spatsizi. “Aside from the guide outfitters, Reg and Ray Collingwood, herd of Stone sheep in the world. Often referred to as the “Serengeti above Tuaton Lake, but it was too late to butcher it, so the hunter national parks map, but in reality the area consists of six frag- and their small crew of wranglers, cooks, bush pilots, and hunters, of Canada,” the Spatsizi is a place that exemplifies a healthy, intact took only the head as a trophy and left the meat. Ray Collingwood 58 CMC summer 2012 summer 2012 CMC 59 Osprey Lifestyle 1_2V – Mountain Culture [EN] v02b.pdf 1 2/27/12 10:32 AM ordered Davis to go retrieve the meat. “I had never butchered “OUR JOB DESCRIptION WAS DELICIOUSLY VAGUE: WILDERNESS ASSESS- a moose in my life. I had probably never actually seen a dead moose,” explains Davis. “Then Ray forgot to give me a knife, and MENT AND PUBLIC RELatIONS. ASIDE FROM THE GUIDE OUTFIttERS, WE all I had was this pen knife. He didn’t say how much to bring ENCOUNTERED IN TWO LONG SEASONS PERHapS A DOZEN VISITORS.” back, therefore, I assumed he wanted all of it, so I just started — WaDE DAVIS, REFERRING TO HIS 1978 POSTING IN THE SpatZIZI chopping it up. I carried the whole 2,000 pounds to the canoe, and the next day paddled it down to the camp.” “Gee, I don’t know how you do it,” commented Alex Jack at the dock. “You got a lot of respect.” As they dragged the meat to the smokehouse, Jack began to open up. “It’s funny. I kinda remember now; I got this story,” he said. “Come by my place tonight.” That night Jack began to tell Davis about mythology that he would impart to Davis over 35 years. “They were all stories of We-Gyet, the trickster transformer of Gitxsan law, says Davis. “They are all stories of human folly against the landscape.” Davis went on to become a National Geographic Society explorer-in-residence, working to preserve the wisdom of ancient cultures and how they might be applied to a Western world- view. Despite focusing his attention on the distant corners of the globe, Davis remains a staunch advocate for the protection of the Sacred Headwaters and its cultural treasures. In 2003, he penned a National Geographic article on the myth and history of the Stikine, and he recently published the book, The Sacred Headwaters: A Fight to Save the Stikine, Skeena and Nass. While Davis kept moving — returning occasionally to his home at Ealue Lake on the Stikine when not in Washington, DC, or in the field — the C Collingwoods stayed put. M though in his late sixties, with a substan- Y tial, graying beard and creases around his eyes that subtly and per- CM petually smile, Ray Collingwood is still agile as he hikes up Terraze Mountain. In a high, raspy voice, he points out compressed grass MY where moose had lain down the previous evening. Five minutes CY further along the trail, he explains the thicket of forest to the CMY south is where they stand during the day to avoid the bugs. They are minimally discernible features of the landscape, but he reads K them constantly and makes sense of them, a skill he learned from Tahltan hunters. Since 1969, he and his brother Reg have occupied the Spatsizi, accruing 12,000 hours in his Piper PA-12 bush plane, hiking the ridges, fishing the streams and hunting the valleys. For 42 years, Ray Collingwood has been constantly observing the landscape and making a home for his family in Spatsizi Lodge, a rustic cluster of cabins that sit corralled by the surrounding vast- ness on the edge of Laslui Lake. A float plane, the only means of reaching the outside world, sits tied to the dock. World-class trout fly-fishing and hunting for animals, such as moose, caribou, mountain goats, grizzlies and wolverines, has attracted guests to the lodge in the summer, affording the Collingwoods their livelihood; however, it also garnered the attention of Greenpeace in 1981. “Greenpeace flew into Spatsizi, Top: Pilot Billy Labonte soars above the Sacred Headwaters. Bottom: Ray Collingwood fishing the Stikine River. set up camp and physically harassed and followed our fishing and hunting clients in the field,” recounts Ray’s daughter, Carrie Collingwood. “This led to altercations and confrontations that Davis emphasizes the Collingwoods commitment to the land. height of land, indicating a much different landscape millions of eventually went to a court case.” “Ray knows more about the wildlife populations than anybody in years ago. Amongst the scree there are fossils and what seems to be Greenpeace lost the case and had to pay a financial settlement, government,” states Davis. “In a thousand quiet ways, he has stood traces of coal.
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