Reviving the Cuisine of Their Ancestors

5 Native American chefs are resurrecting cooking techniques of the Lakota and Ojibwe tribes who farmed Reviving the Cuisine and foraged on the Great Plains of the Midwest. These precolonial food cultures were sophisticated and relied on complex trade routes and traditions. The secrets of this Of Their Ancestors cuisine are being shared by tribal elders and academics.

Norah Jones, Pop Crew of ‘Brujas’ Star, Reconnects Makes the Scene To Her Jazz Roots At Skateparks

3 The artist is a different 4 A multi-ethnic group person than the one who of female skateboarders burst on the scene with the is shaking up the male- wildly successly “Come dominated sport and Away With Me” in 2002. finding ways to express She’s a mother now, and is their freedom while leaning on her training as a learning to do new tricks. jazz pianist in her new work. “This holds so much more meaning for us than what people call Paleo,” he said, “because we can see the real diets of our ancestors, and we see how people lived in this region.” Alex Jimerson, 27, a graduate student in the food- studies program at New York University

2 “This holds so much more meaning for us than what people call Paleo because we can THE MIX see the real diets of our ancestors, and we can see how people lived in this region.”

– Alex Jimerson, 27, a student in food studies, on Native American cuisine

An App to Expose Your Food Choices Special Tool to Cut A Watermelon Ever wondered how long you’d have to swim to burn off the cal- ories in an organic peanut butter cup? Or how far the strawber- The New Age ries or burger on your plate trav- Of Power Dressing eled to get there? Is It Going to Be For answers, ask the Sage When Hillary Clinton accepted Project, one of the latest of the Me, or the Cat? the nomination as the Democrat- food technology companies help- ic candidate for president of the ing consumers navigate nutri- SOCIAL Q’S United States, she made history One-purpose gadgets do not ap- Twice a year, my husband and and automatically became a role peal to me, but this one works I drive eight hours to visit our model for women in a way that too well to pass up. Tuscan son, his wife and baby. Their goes beyond all of her achieve- craftsmen specializing in stain- place is small, so we stay at a ments thus far. less steel produced this double hotel nearby. I have always been Over the months until the gen- scythe-like knife for cutting and afraid of cats and dogs; they eral election (and perhaps be- serving watermelon. Plunge it, have a large cat. But the play- yond), she will be scrutinized in curved side up, into half a melon room is in the basement. It evermore exacting detail, not near the edge, drag it along until would be easy to close the door just for her economic platform you reach the other side. so the cat stays upstairs. When and her emails, but also for her I suggested this, my daughter- body language, her eating hab- in-law said: “Why should I? The tion. Sage goes beyond the food cat lives here.” I was insulted label to give additional informa- The Fastest Line but did not say anything. Next tion about additives and preser- time, I am not planning to visit vatives, how much sugar has In Grocery Store their home. I do not feel welco- been adding during processing pe. Thoughts? For anyone who has ever had to or how far a food has traveled. SUSAN stand in line at a supermarket, “Food labels are a data vi- So, you’re going to drive eight retailer, bank or anywhere else, sualization that we see every hours and just stay at the hotel here is a tip from an expert for day, but we don’t get a lot from the whole time? I hope it has a picking the line that will move the them,” said Sam Slover, the co- good spa and pay-per-view selec- fastest: Get behind a shopper founder and chief executive of who has a full cart Sage. “There are a lot of things That may seem counterintui- about those labels that make as- tive, but data tell a different sto- sumptions about what you know ry, said Dan Meyer, a former and what you want to know.” math teacher who is the chief ac- The Sage app hopes to inspire ademic officer at Desmos. more loyalty by providing use- its, her relationships. And, yes, “Every person requires a ful and quirky information about her clothes. fixed amount of time to say hel- the food you eat. It contains data This is life in the contempo- lo, pay, say goodbye and clear on about 20,000 products. Most At New York’s Pierre Hotel, rary political arena, where who out of the lane,” he said. His re- of the products in the database a candidate is as a person — the Restoring the Romantic Rotunda Room search found all of that takes an are described as “natural” and choices she makes every day average of 41 seconds per per- “organic.” Sage has partnered One of New York’s most spectacular gathering spaces has been re- tion. (May I suggest download- — is as picked over as her posi- son and items to be rung up take with Whole Foods Market, de- vived with the renovation of the Rotunda Room, which is not just for ing “Catastrophe” from Amazon tions, in part because those are about three seconds each. That constructing all of the roughly the benefit of travelers who check into the Pierre’s 189 guest rooms — a terrific show in which a ter- choices we all share. means getting in line with numer- 7,000 items sold in the grocer’s and the occupants of its 75 full-time residences. Anyone who needs a rier comes to a sad end?) It’s not an embarrassment, or ous people who have fewer things new “365” store chains in Los place to recover from a shopping expedition on 5th Avenue or wants I get why your back is up. It an affront. It’s reality. And right can be a poor choice. Angeles and Lake Oswego, Ore. to revel in the Rotunda Room’s romantic atmosphere can visit. would have been kinder for your now it is an enormous opportu- daughter-in-law to accommodate nity: to redefine what being a fe- you. But many folks consider male leader means. There is fi- their pets members of the family. nally critical mass to seize it. Surprising Week It's Elixir-Fed! The idea of shutting them away Now, however, between Mrs. In Men's Fashion Forget grass-fed beef and free- may strike them as odd as plac- Clinton and Theresa May, Brit- range poultry. China’s farmers ing their less-pleasant children ain’s new prime minister (and The challenge of men’s fash- say they have found the next big under quarantine. (And some to a certain extent, Nicola Stur- ion week, now in its third sea- health-food craze: cows, pigs pets go nutso if their territory is geon, the first minister of Scot- son, is resolving the balance of and ducks raised on a steady shrunk.) Spell it out. You can’t land), two more women are in commerce and creativity, and diet of ancient Chinese medi- possibly want to blow up your re- the public eye, not as spous- the wildly disparate aesthet- cine. Practitioners in China have lationship with your daughter-in- es of world leaders. And they ics and ambitions that come to- prescribed blends of medicinal law over one insensitive episode. are, quietly but unquestionably, gether. No fashion week harbors plants and herbs for centuries –PHILIP GALANES changing the rules about what it consensus, either ideological- to ward off disease in humans. means to look like a president or ly or aesthetically, but the range Now, farmers are adapting the prime minister. is particularly broad here. It age-old elixirs — a dash of gin- should come with a warning. seng here, a speck of licorice Several New York design- there — for use on livestock. ers elected to stage their shows The results, they promise, are away from the official hub. not only delicious but healthy: “To be able to separate our- lean, juicy meats that can pro- selves is really nice,” said Mat- tect against colds, arthritis and thew Orley, who won the Council other illnesses. The science is of Fashion Designers of Ameri- less resounding, though one ca’s Swarovski Award “We were study did find that cows that trying to put our business before were fed Chinese medicines per- our egos.” formed better in hot weather.

THE WORK LIFE The Incalculable Value of Finding a Job You Love

Satisfaction at work is tightly linked to the mission of your employer

BY ROBERT H. FRANK be more satisfying. Your better in some way, or ity, even if it doesn’t lead to high Social scientists have been house would be small- at least haven’t made it financial rewards. I tell them not trying to identify the conditions er in absolute terms, but worse. to worry about the money. most likely to promote satisfy- because it would be big- But moral satisfac- The happiness literature has ing human lives. Their findings ger than most other peo- tion alone won’t pay the identified one of the most deep- give some important clues about ple’s, you would be more rent. You’ll be more likely satisfying human psychologi- choosing a career: Money mat- likely to regard it as ad- ly to land a job that of- cal states to be one called “flow.” ters, but as the economist Rich- equate. fers attractive work- It occurs when you are so im- ard Easterlin and others have For sufficiently large ing conditions and pays mersed in an activity that you demonstrated, not always in the income differences, well if you can develop lose track of the passage of time. ways you may think. however, that conclusion deep expertise at a task If you can land a job that en- Consider this thought ex- could easily flip. This that people value highly. ables you to experience substan- periment. Suppose you had to time you would confront As the economist Philip tial periods of flow, you will be choose between two parallel a different kind of dif- Cook and I have argued, among the most fortunate peo- worlds that were alike except ficulty. Although your those who become really ple on the planet. that people in one had signifi- house in the wealthier good at what they do are At that point, even if few peo- cantly higher incomes. If you oc- world would be larger in capturing a much larg- ple in any one location place cupied the same position in the absolute terms, its rela- er share of total income high value on what you do, you income distribution in both — tively small size in that in almost every domain, may find that your services be- say, as a median earner — there universe would mean leaving correspondingly come extremely valuable eco- would be compelling reasons for that your children would smaller shares available nomically. That’s because tech- choosing the richer world. Af- be more likely to attend for others. Moral: Be- nology has steadily extended ter all, societies with higher in- schools regarded there come an expert at some- the geographic reach of those comes tend also to enjoy clean- as substandard. thing! who are best at what they do. er air and water, better schools, It’s not just that more That’s obviously eas- If even a tiny fraction of a suf- less noisy environments, safer money doesn’t provide ier said than done. The ficiently large group of buyers working conditions, longer life a straightforward increase in mensions of job satisfaction is about to enter the job market, psychologist K. Anders Ericsson cares about your service, you expectancy and many other ob- happiness. Social science re- how you feel about your employ- and almost 90 percent said they and his co-authors have estimat- may be worth a fortune. vious benefits. search also underscores the im- er’s mission. Suppose you’re would pick the American Can- ed that many thousands of hours Again, you’ll have bills to pay, But context also matters. If portance of focusing careful- weighing two offers for jobs cer Society position. And when of difficult practice are required so salary matters. But social sci- you faced a choice between be- ly on the many ways in which writing advertising copy: One is I asked them how much more for true expertise at any task. ence findings establish clear- ing a relatively low earner in a jobs differ along dimensions oth- for an American Cancer Society the pro-tobacco job would have That’s why my first response ly that once you have met your high-income society or being er than pay. As economists have campaign to discourage teen- to pay before they would change when students seek advice on basic obligations, it’s possible to near the top in a society in which long known, jobs that offer more age smoking, the other for a to- their minds, they demanded an how to succeed is to ask whether live a very satisfying life even if your income was lower in abso- attractive working conditions — bacco industry campaign to en- average salary premium of more any activity has ever absorbed you don’t earn a lot of money. lute terms, the answer would be greater autonomy, for example, courage it. than 80 percent. them completely. Most answer The bottom line: Resist the less clear. or better opportunities for learn- If pay and other working con- These magnitudes make affirmatively. I then suggest soul-crushing job’s promise of If the income difference was ing, or enhanced workplace ditions were identical, which job sense. When most people leave that they prepare themselves extra money and savor the more very small, being a top earner in safety — also tend to pay less. would you choose? I once posed work each evening, they feel bet- for a career that entails tasks as satisfying conditions you’ll find the poorer world would probably One of the most important di- this question to Cornell seniors ter if they have made the world similar as possible to that activ- in one that pays a little less. THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL 3 Culture

BOOKS Kidnapped: A Rich Girl Radicalized

Patty Hearst's story continues as a source of fascination.

BY STEPHANIE STROM “American Heiress,” Jeffrey Toobin’s new book about Patty Hearst, is a clev- er companion piece to “The Run of His Life” (1996), his book about the O. J. Simpson case. Mr. Toobin has used the same winning formula of delving deeply into an American crime story that had tremendous notoriety in its day and re- telling it with new resonance. Ms. Hearst’s tale is much more bi- zarre than Mr. Simpson’s. And much less of it has to do with legal proceed- ings, Mr. Toobin’s specialty. But in an age of terrorism, the chronicle of how a sedate heiress named Patricia morphed into a gun-toting, invective-spout- ing revolutionary calling herself Tania holds a definite fascination. Ms. Hearst did not cooperate with this account. And she would hate it if she read it. Nor would she appreciate that this book contradicts her memoir, “Ev- ery Secret Thing,” or that Mr. Toobin purports to know what she was real- Patty Hearst was kidnapped on Feb. 4, 1974, ly thinking, on the basis of voluminous by radicals calling themselves the Symbionese but incomplete evidence. The witness- Liberation Army. es to Ms. Hearst’s behavior during her years underground certainly made a lot of observations about her. But the cru- exclaim, “Take anything you want!” cial people — those who may or may not Almost every detail from this point have brainwashed her — knew her for on remains open to interpretation. How only three months before they died. badly was the kidnapping victim treat- It’s not that “American Heiress” is ed? It’s true she was confined to a walk- in closet that locked from the outside American Heiress and that she went through extreme sensory deprivation. But would this become The Wild Saga of the the basis for brainwashing? Kidnapping, Crimes and Trial Or were her captors, about whom Mr. of Patty Hearst Toobin has a lot of background informa- By Jeffrey Toobin tion, partly stalling as they figured out 371 pages. Doubleday. what to do with her? Mr. Toobin’s book $28.95. looks closely at the group members’ goals, only to find that, collectively, they meanspirited. It’s just that Mr. Toobin couldn’t agree on any. — who read her love letters, reviewed The last part of this book covers what material available to investigators and was then called “the trial of the centu- bought an extensive set of files assem- ry.” And F. Lee Bailey was a prime play- bled by one her revolutionary com- er. The book’s legal pièce de résistance rades — wants to understand exactly is how Mr. Bailey bungled Ms. Hearst’s what happened to Ms. Hearst despite defense in charges of robbing a bank, her clearly dishonest accounts after the the first of several crimes for which she fact, including in court. So this book is was accused. For all his gaffes, though, adversarial by definition. It credits its Mr. Bailey saved her from a murder tri- subject with a strength and resilience al. She wound up serving minimal pris- that would not have prevailed had she on time and receiving special treatment not also been a determined liar. from two presidents: commutation of One of the few unassailable facts is sentence from Jimmy Carter and a par- With her new album, Norah Jones is departing from the folk and pop sounds of her three wildly successful releases in the 2000s. that Ms. Hearst was kidnapped and don from Bill Clinton. thrown into a car trunk on Feb. 4, 1974, Mr. Toobin points out that American by people calling themselves the Sym- prisons are full of people who are led MUSIC bionese Liberation Army. She had been astray and wind up committing crimi- ing about recording with Wayne and at home with her fiancé, Steven Weed, nal acts. They have no chance at one act Brian,” she said. “I didn’t want it to be whose response to the attackers was to of clemency, let alone two. standards. I was hoping for something very rhythmic, with Wayne floating Singer Returns over the top.” Ms. Jones has played more guitar Q. AND A. than piano in recent years, on her own and with side projects like Puss n Boots, a vaguely tongue-in-cheek singer-song- To Her Jazz Roots. writer trio, and the Little Willies, a springy vintage-country band. (She Jesse Eisenberg also mainly played guitar on “Forever- BY NATE CHINEN ly,” a nod to the Everly Brothers, made several years ago with the Green Day Moments before taking the stage at the Newport Jazz Fes- frontman Billie Joe Armstrong.) tival in late July, Norah Jones paused to reflect on her ties “I think even more than a return On ‘The Spoils’ to jazz, it’s a return to the piano,” Ms. to the tradition it represents. “Sometimes I feel like a jazz Jones said of “Day Breaks,” a point sec- onded by Mr. Blade, who played on her A New York play makes a successful leap across the Atlantic. dropout, you know?” she said in her trailer, wearing a first two albums, and has also backed hall-of-fame singer-songwriters like floral print summer dress. “But when- mind. “I feel very comfortable with Joni Mitchell and Bob Dylan. BY BEN BRANTLEY ever I’m around those people, from myself, in a way that I probably didn’t “Norah accompanies herself like Car- Importing Jesse Eisenberg’s “The Spoils” high school or college or my early days 10 years ago,” she said. “I think that’s men McRae or Shirley Horn — or Joni, to London was not exactly a no-brainer. in New York, everybody makes me feel probably what happens when you get for that matter,” Mr. Blade said by tele- Written by and starring Mr. Eisenberg, like part of the family.” older.” phone. “She’s a great architect from the this lacerating comedy of humiliation — Jazz, or at least her homespun take She is 37, the mother of two children: instrument, while listening and taking on it, brought Ms. Jones one of the most a toddler son and a daughter born sev- suggestions from the band.” about a whiny, rich, hyper-articulate and decorated albums in recent history. eral months ago. But Ms. Jones seemed Ms. Jones didn’t shy away from topi- terminally narcissistic young New York- “Come Away With Me,” her 2002 debut, well rested and at ease as she occupied cality. “Flipside” takes issue with soci- er who impulsively sabotages his own life took home eight Grammy Awards, in- the window seat at Frankies 457 Spunti- etal oppression and runaway gun cul- and that of his Nepalese roommate — ap- cluding album of the year, and has sold no in Carroll Gardens, not far from her ture. “It’s a Wonderful Time for Love” peared destined to be lost in translation. over 11 million copies. She trained as a Brooklyn apartment. (“They’re playing has a jaunty cadence but lyrics that nod Yet since opening in June at Trafal- jazz pianist and singer (and signed with Elvis,” she noted. “They usually play toward the darkness. gar Studios, “The Spoils” has become the the Dead in here.”) “I just thought, ‘The whole world’s Blue Note Records) before sidling over best-selling production in that theater’s to the countrified folk and low-gloss pop And she enjoyed her Newport Jazz kind of falling apart right now,’” Ms. that marked her three subsequent al- Festival experience: “I thought that the Jones said. On tour recently, she noticed history. Scott Elliott, the director, sat bums, from 2004 to 2009, all certified whole set was pretty sloppy, but loose that one of her older songs, “My Dear down to discuss why their production has platinum. A first-time Norah Jones per- and fun in all the right ways.” Country” — written about the 2004 grown, changed and flourished on Brit- formance at the Newport Jazz Festi- Fifteen years ago, when Ms. Jones presidential election, but even more fit- ish soil. val in Rhode Island, the world’s oldest signed to Blue Note, a storied jazz la- ting in 2016 — struck a nerve. “It was and still one of its most prestigious, was bel, she was obviously an outlier: an un- insane,” she said. “People were flipping The writer and actor Jesse Eisenberg. both an overdue and unforeseen event. proven young singer-songwriter blend- out.” SCOTT ELLIOTT They told me early on, Ms. Jones’s fall tour will feature her It’s no coincidence that the festival hit ing acoustic jazz with rustic country “We don’t want you to get your hopes maximum capacity, for the first time in and folksy soft rock. Her success set a regular working band, and bring her to up about audience reactions.” The sar- ELLIOTT There’s a lot of bragging in the more than 15 years, on the day that her precedent for later signings like Amos the Beacon Theater in Manhattan on casm and the humor in the show is so play. So it was interesting to teach them name was on the bill. Lee, the Wood Brothers and Kandace Nov. 29. But she’ll also play four nights, about that, and it took a while. She made the occasion a public pre- Springs as she continued to push her Oct. 10 to 13, in a small theater at the American. So I was worried thinking, view of her new album, “Day Breaks,” sound: Her previous solo album, from Sheen Center on Bleecker Street, with “Oh, maybe they’re not going to get it.” which brings her back into the jazz 2012, is “Little Broken Hearts,” a pop the same special-edition jazz crew that Shockingly, the response was complete- EISENBERG I as a writer assume it’s to- fold without taking the safe or familiar mélange produced by Danger Mouse. joined her in Newport. ly opposite, from the first preview. I tally self-explanatory, that when people route. Due on Oct. 7, it features promi- Ms. Jones happens to be angling to- With luck, her tour will include the came to the conclusion that people just brag, they do it with this kind of facade nent jazz artists like the saxophonist ward jazz at a moment when its pulse standout Neil Young cover she includ- listen better here. of humility to subtly apologize for what Wayne Shorter and the bassist John Pa- can be felt through a lot of popular mu- ed on “Day Breaks” — a deep cut called they’re saying. And Scott picked up right titucci. And when she took the stage at sic: nestled in the style of hip-hop art- “Don’t Be Denied,” from 1973. Its lyr- There is an English tradition of self- away that’s not how it’s done here. Peo- Newport with several other musicians ists like Kendrick Lamar and pop mega- ics are autobiographically raw, and to ple don’t freely talk about their problems from the album, including the drummer stars like Beyoncé; in the touring bands connect with them Ms. Jones changed loathing characters in comedy. here, don’t freely brag. Brian Blade, the message was clear: of soul survivors like D’Angelo and the point of view from “I” to “she.” His

She was accessing her musical core. Maxwell; in the bloodstream of van- “Winnipeg” also becomes her “An- JESSE EISENBERG That was my feel- When she got to “Flipside,” a turbo- guardist electronic producers like Fly- chorage,” in accordance with her own ing. In terms of modern English enter- Unlike most actors who write parts for charged new rhythm-and-blues tune, ing Lotus; all over a valedictory recent childhood story, which included a trip tainment, I really liked Ricky Gervais’s themselves, you don’t seem to feel the she belted the chorus but compressed album by David Bowie. from Texas to Alaska and back with character in [the original British ver- need to make the audience like you. just as much feeling, at a cooler temper- But the spark for “Day Breaks” can her mother. (Her father, the Indian si- sion of] “The Office,” and when Ameri- ature, into the second verse: be traced to a single moment two years tar master Ravi Shankar, was a distant cans remade that show [with Steve Car- EISENBERG The way I think about it ago at the Kennedy Center in Washing- presence in her life.) is, if I’m writing the part and I’m play- The song is about bitter disillusion- rell], it was a lot lighter, and so I just I finally know who I’m supposed to be ton, when Ms. Jones appeared on a 75th ing the part, I can make the part as dis- My mind was locked but I found the anniversary concert for her label and ment, and the hard-fought wisdom that assumed that my play would be O.K. tasteful on the page as possible, and key performed “I’ve Got to See You Again,” casts a skeptical eye on the meaning of here. Hope it don’t all slip away from me a smoldering tune by Jesse Harris, with commercial success. The chorus con- then every other ounce of me will try to a group that included Mr. Shorter, Mr. sists entirely of the title phrase: “Don’t Did you have to translate some of the humanize it. If I wasn’t playing the part, A few weeks later, during a lunch in- Patitucci and Mr. Blade. be denied.” Ms. Jones sings it a total of cultural references for the new British I’d worry more about the character be- terview, Ms. Jones allowed that those “When I started thinking about mak- 19 times, making it sound both like an cast members? ing likable. lyrics reflected her current state of ing a ‘jazz record,’ mostly I was think- reassurance and a battle cry. 4 THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL Styles

21ST CENTURY MAN For Many Men, Summer Poses The Greatest Fashion Challenge

The clothes can make the man, but don't forget about skin care.

BY ALEX TUDELA Summer’s greatest fashion challenge is pulling off the transformation from ur- banite to beachgoer. May we suggest a look somewhere between midcentury rebel without a cause and Cosmo Kram- er? A silky bowling shirt goes nicely with dark swim trunks. And the slim steel dress watch by Uniform Wares is elegant and sporty, with its fine-weave Milanese mesh strap to keep? the tote pack with a ditty bag, a carryall tradi- tionally used by sailors and fishermen. This one, from the French brand L/Uni- form, made of army khaki canvas, is utilitarian with a Parisian touch. If you’re weary of ball caps and buck- et hats, refresh your headgear game with a visor from Paa. Don’t forget skin. Kyoku for Men facial moisturizer works to prevent acne breakouts while also protecting against A crew of female skateboarders who call themselves the “Brujas” (witches in Spanish) believe their presence at skate parks around the city challenge the culture of the male-dominated sport. sun damage. And at the end of a beach day, a hydrating mist containing des- ert lime, olive leaf and pomegranate FIT CITY group. Riding alone as a woman in a redeveloped into oblivion.” extracts is a good way to wash the salt male-dominated park, they said, can be These rapid changes are a pressing from your face. hazardous. Nearly everyone has a hor- fact of life for the Brujas, all of whom ror story from pre-Brujas days of intim- have seen their neighborhoods shift idation or abuse at the hands of male in recent years. Though Ms. Olivieri The Sisterhood skaters. Traveling together, they feel has spent most of her life in Washing- a greater sense of safety. Indeed, the ton Heights, the influx of wealthier res- name “Brujas” — Spanish for “witches” idents has led to an increased police — comes from the title of a 1986 video presence, she said. depicting women pushing men off their “Cops have taken over the entire Of the Skateboard skateboards. neighborhood, but they’re here for the “Brujas has a special kind of bond,” people moving in, not us,” she said. said Carla Cruz, 24. “This right here is “Now I’ve got officers giving me a hard BY NOAH REMNICK a sisterhood.” time for skateboarding, even making As the young women skated through me show ID in my own damn lobby. It’s Early one evening in June, River Avenue Skate Park in the the 10,000-square-foot park, that bond wild.” quickly revealed itself. They not only Moments later, as Ms. Olivieri took a Bronx was reverberating with its usual medley of screech- cracked jokes and traded stories, they break in the shade with Nesa Guzman, ing from the elevated No. 4 train and scattered applause also provided one another with words of 21, a squad car pulled up to the corner encouragement and guidance on tricks. and began scanning the crowd. “What from Yankee Stadium, when a young boy shouted, “Brujas Often, they filmed moves to show off lat- do you know, it’s our best friends,” Ms. coming, yo!” And with that, in rolled some of the park’s er on their Instagram account. Guzman said with an eye roll. Even Each skater seemed to be honing her though skateboarding is sanctioned most steadfast devotees, their ponytails young people of color in terms of jobs own specialty and style. On the smooth- within the park, the women say offi- waving in the breeze. The Brujas, a crew and education that we don’t feel like a est stretch of pavement, Ms. Wilkerson cers still scrutinize the area, handing of female skateboarders, have gathered part of this city,” Ms. Gil said. “Skating was practicing one iteration after anoth- out penalties to skateboarders who for- regularly there for more than two years, is a way to reclaim our freedom.” er of a move called the boneless, in which go helmets or stay after hours. but they still tend to turn heads. Even as That sense of independence is what she grabbed the middle of her board As the Brujas have increased, in mem- they have become fixtures in the local first drew Samantha Olivieri, 20, to with one hand and rotated it around to bers and lore, so has their activism. SHIRT Lanvin bowling shirt, $675, at skateboarding community, the young skateboarding seven years ago. Then a the opposite end before hopping back on. What began in parks and playgrounds Lanvin New York, 646-613- 9541. TANK women — all of them from ethnic minor- middle school student living in the Wash- Ms. Cruz stuck to the curved walls of the now extends into other arenas of orga- Schiesser cotton ribbed tank top, similar ities, most from Upper Manhattan or the ington Heights neighborhood of Man- bowl, trying a variety of pivots and pull- nizing. Some of the women said they had styles at mrporter.com. SHORTS Marc Bronx — are frequently greeted with hattan, Ms. Olivieri found skating to be ups. Ms. Olivieri seemed to be on a per- spoken out at City Council hearings on Jacobs cotton elasticated shorts, $650, at catcalling and rubbernecking. a salve for her depression and feelings petual search for surfaces to pull off a rezoning plans; helped marshal protest- marcjacobs.com. SUNGLASSES Jacques “Silly boys acting like they’ve never of inferiority, she said. She passed many 50-50 grind. ers for rallies fighting mass incarcera- Marie Mage Zephirin smoke sunglasses, seen a girl before,” scoffed Arianna Gil, days cruising the perimeter of Manhat- Ms. Gil took particular joy in skating tion; and put together open-mike nights $455, atblackoptical.com. 22, who helped found the group in 2014. tan, grinding the trucks of her board outside the park, popping nollie flips, highlighting underserved voices. “Skater bros all think they’re rebels, but along every railing in sight. “Hearing shove-its and other tricks in front of the The Brujas tend to spread the word who are the real outsiders here?” my trucks on metal is like therapy,” Ms. nearby condominium complexes, which about events, including their camp, Skateboarding, which long enjoyed a Olivieri said. “It’s one of the most em- have risen as part of a continuing wave through social media or mass text mes- freewheeling, anti-establishment rep- powering feelings in the world.” of development in the area. To Ms. Gil, sages, but often plans come togeth- utation, has gained substantial main- Yasmeen Wilkerson, 18, was dubious skateboarding represents a cry of dis- er impulsively. One recent afternoon, stream traction and corporate sponsor- when she was introduced to skateboard- sent against the city’s gentrification. the women were leaving the skate park ship over the years. And still the sport ing through her boyfriend, but she soon “Skateboarding is a political act,” said when they encountered a group of boys remains dominated by men, most of recalibrated her priorities. “I dumped Ms. Gil, whose family moved to Wash- squabbling with police officers. them white. The Brujas hope their pres- the guy but kept the skateboard,” she ington Heights in 2009 after being “To me, this is a whole other layer of ence on the scene will challenge skate- said with a grin. priced out of an apartment on the Lower what we’re about,” Ms. Gil said. “Bru- boarding culture with what they view as Whatever prompted them individual- East Side. “It allows us to question pri- jas was never just limited to skateboard- a more radical agenda. ly to start skating, the Brujas have found vate property and reclaim all the spaces ing — it’s about regaining power for our “There’s so little opportunity for a much-needed support system in their in our city that have been rezoned and community in any way we can.”

SHOES Spalwart low-top sneakers, about THE CITY LIFE At the FFT offices, the children learn $110, atspalwart.com. from Mr. Winfield. He has a way with kids, and a setup well suited for them: Kid Models one bookshelf is covered in Spider-Man memorabilia, and on his desk sits a large plastic container covered in smiley-face And Their Moms) stickers and filled with candy. Still, Mr. Winfield is running a busi- Trade Summer ness, and he speaks frankly to the children. “You know how your parents have Fun and Sun told you, ‘Don’t judge a book by its cover?’” he said to the children, who fidg- For Auditions eted in chairs as they listened. “Well in this industry, because this is film and TV and modeling, that’s the first thing Forget the carefree days of soccer that people are going to do. They’re go- camp and hanging out at the pool. ing to judge a book by its cover. So your job is to make a good first impression.” With 33 families settling in the city this summer seeking child modeling op- TOWEL BY ZOE GREENBERG portunities with FFT, Mr. Winfield de- Ron Dorff “Dune Nude” beach Five children, in brightly colored T- livers the same speech during a number towel, $85, atrondorff.com. PRODUCT shirts and wrinkled jean shorts, chat- of sessions. Kyoku for Men facial moisturizer, tered in an eighth-floor office in Man- Children who come to New York for modeling work face a lot of rejection and a high cost of living. A few weeks earlier, Catrina Black sat $79.95 for kit, at kyokuformen.com. hattan on a recent June day, taking in a similar orientation meeting, tak- Grown Alchemist hydra-mist, $29.95, at breaks to lick ice pops and play with tually read, like at the hair salon,” Me- models who make the pilgrimage, and ing in the same words. She had traveled grownalchemist.com. Kiehl’s creamy eye Spider-Man dolls. It looked like an all- lia said. the agency doesn’t advance money. from Birmingham, Ala., with her daugh- treatment, $29, at kiehls.com. American play date, the type you may She and her peers will need patience, Agents are paid a percentage of what ter Erin Black, who just turned 11. Erin see depicted in a magazine. a thick skin and good karma. But most the models make. has earned a first-degree black belt in And that’s exactly the point. of all, they will need an agent, which is The kind of career-building effort that taekwondo and has studied dance for It’s summer in New York, and that why they arrived early at the office of brings throngs of children and their par- seven years. She has hazel eyes and gig- means aspiring child models (along Charlie Winfield, the Popsicle provider ents to New York is not cheap, and re- gles often. with, most often, their mothers, who as- and director of operations at FFT/Fun- turns aren’t guaranteed. Melia’s moth- Ms. Black is proud of the opportunity pire to be parents of child models) have nyFace Today Inc. Model Management. er, Julie Baker, is divorced from Melia’s she’s providing for her child. When she traveled from all over the country to the He spends a few months each year dad and works as a manager at a shoe was 18, she said, she had the opportuni- city for a shot at stardom. traveling to small-town conventions store in Cincinnati. ty to go to New York to be a model. She Melia Breuer, 11, and Grace Nelson, across the country, scouting young mod- She estimates she has spent between was packing up, getting ready to leave also 11, said they were excited to be els who might want to travel to New $7,000 and $10,000 on modeling costs in Birmingham, but her father and step- hanging out in New York office build- York for the summer. the past year for Melia, who has made mother talked her out of going. ings, even as their friends back home “Summer kids,” as they are known between $300 and $500 during that “That’s a regret I still have today, and in Cincinnati are spending the summer in the industry, aim to secure auditions time. To pay for this trip to the East I’m 46½ years old,” she said. “When swimming, attending soccer camp and and jobs in the most competitive model- Coast, Ms. Baker created a GoFundMe Erin had this opportunity, I said, ‘I’m playing foursquare in the driveway. The ing market in the nation. page and hosted a going-away party, not going to let her have regrets the rest girls moved with their mothers to New The average child model working where friends and family gave money. of her life like I had.’” York City for seven weeks of audition- year-round could potentially make Grace’s mother, Valerie Nelson, who Ms. Black took a part-time job selling ing. The four live together in a studio $20,000, according to Joey Hunter, the works in a cardiac catheterization lab homeopathic diet supplements so she apartment in Chelsea. former co-president of Ford Models who in Cincinnati, estimates she has spent could afford to travel with her daughter. Although both girls have budding Ins- founded the kids division there. But for $13,000 to $15,000 since her daughter People have said to her, “You can’t live tagram accounts, summer in New York these children, success may mean earn- began modeling two years ago. your life through your daughter,” Ms. offers something even more alluring ing $13 an hour as a TV extra. How much has Grace made so far? Black said. But she’s quick to rebut that than online “likes” and hearts. “I want As is the norm with most agencies, “Zero dollars,” Ms. Nelson said. view: “I’m not. She’s the one who’s go- BAG L/Uniform No.5 cotton canvas bag, to be in a real magazine that people ac- FFT doesn’t guarantee work to young “That’s not a hard number to figure out.” ing to be modeling, not me.” about $215, at luniform.com. THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL 5 Food

LOCAL FLAVOR The New Native Cuisine

FAMILIAR INNOVATION At In Situ, Cory Lee replicates dishes dreamed up by other chefs.

CRITIC'S NOTEBOOK This Is America’s Most Original New Restaurant

Inside a San Francisco museum, In Situ is part of the art.

BY PETE WELLS By avoiding originality, In Situ is the most original new restaurant in the country. The restaurant opened recently inside the San Francisco Museum of Mod- BACK TO THE ROOTS Sean Sherman, a 42-year-old chef who is Oglala Lakota, is part of a movement to revive indigenous cooking. ern Art, in a space off the lobby that was built during the museum’s trans- formative expansion. Inside, the chef, BY TEJAL RAO Indigenous Foodstuffs Corey Lee, faithfully replicates dishes The moon was full and the chokecherries were ripe in the The Minneapolis chef Sean Sherman dreamed up by Sean Brock, Alice Wa- southeastern corner of North Dakota. “It’s the one smell that finds culinary inspiration in the indige- ters and other innovators. None of the nous foods of the Upper Midwest. As a recipes are his own. As one of the managers told a group shoots me back to being young,” said Sean Sherman, as the proponent of what he and other native of people interested in renting out the berries boiled under a red-veined froth. cooks call new Native American cuisine, restaurant for the night when I ate Mr. Sherman buys many of his ingredi- there, “The easiest way to understand Mr. Sherman has simmered corn silk age ingredients for dinner. ents from the region’s native producers. this restaurant is as an art installa- with purple bergamot blossoms to make Alex Jimerson, 27, a graduate stu- tion.” Strangely enough, they didn’t ap- tea, and braised rabbit with spruce tips. dent in the food-studies program at WILD RICE The best wild rice in the pear frightened by that statement. Even He has revived chaga, the fungus that New York University, dug up burdock country really does grow wild, around more strangely, it makes some kind of blooms on birch trees, in warm hazel- in the wild thickets between corn fields. the lakes of northern Minnesota, in sense once you eat at In Situ. “This holds so much more meaning for nut milk, and burned juniper branches grassy clusters up to eight feet high. Mr. Lee’s concept — for once, the in- and corn cobs all the way down to a soft us than what people call Paleo,” he said, dustry jargon is apt — sidesteps some black ash. “because we can see the real diets of The ripe grain kernels are picked by basic assumptions about what chefs are These techniques aren’t borrowed our ancestors, and we see how people hand, by workers who navigate by ca- supposed to do. In Situ’s closest peer in from the cutting-edge kitchens of New lived in this region.” noe. For a less chewy bite, boil it just un- this regard is probably Next, the Chica- original location. This is just what In York or Copenhagen. Mr. Sherman, a Mr. Jimerson, a member of the Sene- til the kernels pop. go restaurant founded by Grant Achatz Situ’s dishes are not. The menu, folded 42-year-old chef who is Oglala Lakota, ca Nation, was excited to help prepare WALLEYE Mr. Sherman works with this that inhabits a new period and style of and fastened with a metal museum ad- draws from the knowledge of the Lako- the five-course dinner that would end lean freshwater perch regularly, crust- cooking every four months. missions tag, looks like a guide to a gal- ta and Ojibwe tribes who farmed and the retreat. He went foraging for tannic ing the fillets with spices, or mashing Each chef, of course, has another res- lery exhibition of works on temporary foraged on the plains of the Midwest. buffalo berries and wild greens early in taurant that works as a showpiece for loan. One side shows a map of the world His work is part of a slowly gather- the morning, before the sun rose high his own expressive temperament. For on a tilted axis. Circles on the map show ing movement that he and other cooks over the prairie and it became too hot to Mr. Achatz, that is Alinea. For Mr. Lee, the birthplaces of the 15 dishes In Situ are calling “new Native American cui- trek. He had never seen clumps of white it is Benu, a short walk from In Situ, is currently offering. A key in the right sine,” or “indigenous cuisine” — an ef- sage growing wild, and he picked some. where he offers some of the most ex- margin gives each dish’s chief ingredi- fort to revitalize native food cultures in Later that night, he helped as the chef quisitely varied and controlled tasting ents, its originator’s name and location contemporary kitchens. Mr. Sherman, de cuisine, Brian Yazzie, used the sage menus I’ve ever had; his cooking there and the year it was invented. who has been cooking in restaurants leaves to quick-smoke duck. runs variations on Chinese, Korean and In Situ makes a good case that res- for nearly 30 years and plans to open The duck would be served with dried Japanese dishes that are possible only taurant food can be highly expressive his own in Minneapolis next year cherries and a delicate cracker of puffed because he seems to understand each of an individual chef’s sensibility and of Because so many of the native food wild rice and amaranth, with the flavor one so thoroughly. the sensibility of a particular place and the sweet, flaky white meat to make ten- ways passed down through genera- of just-popped corn. Mr. Sherman also There are more famous chefs in the time. But it probably won’t provoke the tions orally, they have been forgotten put walleye, the big glassy-eyed perch, der croquettes. The fish comes from Red United States, but few whose technical complex, shaded, sometimes contra- or obscured, and his quest has required on the dinner menu, with a maple and Lake, a commercial fishery in Minne- mastery is as deeply respected in the dictory personal reactions that many a mix of trial-and-error, scholarly re- corn broth, and wrinkled dry apple slic- sota run by the Red Lake Band of Chip- business. “I couldn’t have more faith in works of art do. search and painstaking detective work. es that came to life with dabs of lemony pewa Indians, who carefully track the anyone than Corey Lee, in terms of ex- Whether that means food is or is not In some cases, Mr. Sherman has had to sorrel purée. seasonal fish populations to harvest the ecution,” the chef Wylie Dufresne said. art is something you can talk about rely on his imagination. The dishes were typical of Mr. Sher- fish sustainably. Try it pan-fried with The Latin phrase “in situ” is used over a sticky glass of Madeira from “He’s the second generation to do this man’s style: colorful and elegant, with herbs and butter or simply roasted in when a work of art is embedded in its D’Oliveiras at the end of the meal. work,” said Lois Ellen Frank, a food his- roots in fine dining and ancestral cook- the oven. torian with a catering company in San- ing, pulled together from a mix of culti- ta Fe, N.M. “And he’s following in our vated and wild regional ingredients. CHOKECHERRY SYRUP The small tart footsteps.” They were also composed without fruits of the chokecherry tree, which DRINK larity on the coasts three or four years When Ms. Frank began asking ques- wheat flour, sugar or dairy — the gov- ripen in summer, were a vital part of ago,” said Nick Guastaferro, brand ditions about Native American cuisine ernment-issued commodities that re- rector for Absolut vodka in the United in the 1980s, she was told there was no placed many native foods on reser- At Age 75, States, “and we saw it as a way to focus such thing. “But of course they had a vations more than a century ago. Mr. our cocktail strategy on the mule.” cuisine,” said Ms. Frank, who now has a Sherman avoids them. The Moscow That strategy includes educating bar- doctoral degree in culinary anthropolo- This means he does not cook fry tenders and consumers about the drink, gy, “and it was intricate, diverse and de- bread, the simple deep-fried dough fa- campaigning to get it onto bar menus, licious.” miliar to every tribe in the country. Fry Mule Gets Its and providing bars with those pricey At his three-day cooking retreat in bread was born as a food of survival, de- copper cups. July, hosted by the Coteau des Prai- veloped by ingenious cooks who need- Kick Back GuestMetrics, a data analytics firm ries Lodge, on the Lake Traverse Indi- ed to make the most of flour and lard, Native American food cultures through- that tracks consumer spending, reports an Reservation, Mr. Sherman instruct- and it later became the base of the In- out the Midwest. (The Lakota mashed that Moscow Mule menu placements in ed more than a dozen people who had dian taco: fry bread under ground beef and dried the fruit in season so they As cocktails make a comeback, 2015 rose 60 percent over the previous traveled from nearby towns and as far and toppings like shredded cheese and could reach for it throughout the long so does a vodka classic. year. Requests for the drink constitut- away as Atlanta. The group included a sour cream. winters.) Red Lake Nation Foods, also ed more than 7 percent of all cocktail or- doctor, a college professor and a dentist In 2015, when Mr. Sherman was hired ders last year, making it nearly as pop- owned by Red Lake members, produc- who kept a small folding knife tucked in by Little Earth of United Tribes, a Min- ular as the Bloody Mary and the mojito. es this versatile deep red syrup, which the elastic of her bra, ready for an af- neapolis housing complex, to develop a BY ROBERT SIMONSON The resulting drink took off among ternoon of cutting lamb’s quarters and menu for its food truck, he saw a chance can be used to flavor sparkling water or Ten years ago, I attended a seminar the Hollywood crowd. wild mint. to put everything he had learned into brighten a bowl of vanilla ice cream. on the history of vodka at Tales of the Mr. Sherman explained how the pre- practice. He wanted to reach back into Cocktail, the annual New Orleans con- colonial food cultures that inspired his the history of indigenous cuisine. WILD PLUM JELLY Wild plums may vention. The moderator mentioned a work were sophisticated, supported by Mr. Sherman’s ambitions go beyond be small but they’re packed with fla- cocktail named the Moscow Mule as complex trade routes and traditions. To dinner service. He hopes his new res- vor, and when ripe they can vary in col- “the drink that started it all” — that is, piece together their techniques, he in- taurant can bring jobs into Native or from pale yellow to a deep purple. vodka’s popularity in the United States. terviewed community elders and aca- American communities, and start ca- Invented in 1941, the drink was a mix of demics, and studied books like “Buffa- reers in the industry. He wants to create The fruit makes an especially lush, tart- vodka, lime juice and ginger beer, typi- lo Bird Woman’s Garden,” the farming a larger demand for Native American- sweet jelly that improves on everything cally served in a copper mug. practices of a woman who lived on the owned food businesses. (He already from soft cheese to buttered toast. I had never heard of it. Fort Berthold Reservation in North Da- buys walleye from Red Lake Fishery, Last year, in a nothing-special bar in kota early in the 20th century. and the wild rice he uses is harvested MAPLE SYRUP Wild plums may be Sturgeon Bay, Wis. (population 9,500 or He placed a stack of resources, about by tribes who live around the lakes of small but they’re packed with flavor, so), I sat with my niece, who had recent- 20 books on ethnobotany and indig- Northern Minnesota.) and when ripe they can vary in color ly reached drinking age. She struggled enous foods, at the front of the room, “We’re a small but tightly knit com- from pale yellow to a deep purple. The over what to order. The waitress sug- but the real work took place outdoors, munity,” Mr. Sherman said. “But we see gested, “How about a Moscow Mule?” fruit makes an especially lush, tart- where participants were asked to for- the momentum growing.” Once a curious footnote, the Moscow sweet jelly that improves everything Mule, which turns 75 this year, is now from soft cheese to buttered toast. one of the most common drinks on the BUFFALO JERKY On Pine Ridge Reser- planet. Snobs may sniff at it, but few vation in South Dakota, where Mr. Sher- drinks have so completely benefited man lived until he was 12, Lakota entre- from the current cocktail revival. On a recent episode of “Better Call Saul,” a lawyer orders a Moscow Mule over lunch. The traditional mugs, once rare antiques, can be bought at Bed BACK FOR MORE Louisville's take on a Mule Bath & Beyond. sometimes includes Kentucky bourbon. Not far from Sturgeon Bay, in Ellison Bay, Mike Holmes, owner and bar man- Its comeback makes some principled ager of the Wickman House restaurant, mixologists sigh. recently ordered a new batch of mugs. “As a cocktail, it’s fine,” said Colin The cocktail is so popular, he said, that Shearn, who has worked in Los Angeles, preneurs run Tanka, a Native American whenever one person orders a Moscow Philadelphia and Louisville, Ky. “I just feel like it’s symbolic with everything natural foods company that produces Mule, there is a run on the drink. How does a cocktail go from obscurity that is wrong with American drinking a number of ready-to-eat jerkies using to ubiquity in a decade? That the mule habits. The people who I see drinking it prairie-raised buffalo. is one of the few classic cocktails made these days, they know they’re supposed with vodka helps; the industry has pro- to be drinking something cool and craft. moted it heavily. But they’re still set in their own ways to “We’ve really seen it rise in popu- not move beyond vodka.” 21ST CENTURY MAN 5 Surprising Trends From a Month of Men's Fashion

BY GUY TREBAY

6 THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL Travel

Q. AND A. How Gwyneth Paltrow Likes To Get Away

Health and indulgence mix when the actress is on the road.

BY SHIVANI VORA It’s not just about conscious uncoupling and recipes for “superpowered avoca- do toast.” Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle site, may be most famous for being the place where the Oscar-winning actress popularized a way to describe divorce and a forum to share her commitment to health (with accompanying products for sale). But it’s also where she shares her FRUGAL TRAVELER of the old men, however, I produced the with smoked herring, pear with hon- passion for travel and writes about finds tied-together bunch of birch branches ey and caviar, and beef ribs cooked in from her trips. I’d purchased (300 rubles) and start- kvass (a beverage made from ferment- ed whacking myself with them, like I’d ed bread) costs 8,000 rubles. Tack on In fact, chances are high that most seen them do: on my legs, arms, back another 1,600 for a glass of Champagne. sightings of Ms. Paltrow, 43, these days A $1,000 Day in and stomach. are of when she is on the road. Though The branches stung, somehow mak- Low she lives in Los Angeles, she says she ing the sauna, which I didn’t think could A sudden rainstorm caused me to stum- travels at least a few times a month, get any more painful, something even ble into Skalka, but the great food and both for work and pleasure, and counts slightly more medieval. I rushed out friendly service made me stay. Where- Austria, Paris, Barcelona, Hong Kong Moscow for $100 of there after four or five minutes and as Muscovites in the service industry and Deer Valley, Utah, among her re- plunged myself into the frigid cool pool. sometimes met my English with a sigh cent trips. As I dunked my head underwater, a and roll of the eyes, the owner of Skal- Russian pleasures can be found on a budget, in the banya and beyond. lightheadedness came over me, as well ka, Rozaliya Kuchmezova, greeted me Ms. Paltrow was in New York City re- as a tingly feeling of well-being. Maybe quite warmly. “It’s very nice to meet cently to promote her new six-piece skin it was just cell death, but I was begin- you,” she said carefully. “We have many care collection, Goop by Juice Beauty, BY LUCAS PETERSON Renting the private “Baikal” room in ning to understand why people did this. delicious things for you to try.” and spoke about wellness on the road, It’s the simple things that sometimes Sanduny will cost 16,000 rubles for two She recommended a couple of flaky- traveling with her children and where present the biggest challenges. I was hours. Want a massage? Add 2,500. crusted, savory pies — one with salmon she most wants to go. Below are edited looking for a way to get to the Four Sea- Transportation and fresh herbs, the other a vegetarian excerpts. sons Moscow, a huge beige box of a Low pie with potato, mushroom and cheese. building that skirts Red Square in cen- The Russian banya is about tradition High My total bill came to about 620 rubles, Q. Do you keep up your exercise regi- tral Moscow — but I couldn’t figure out and camaraderie, as well as cleanliness. To ferry his imaginary client around, less than $10. how to get across the road. The broad When I went to the Vorontsov bath- Mr. Kryuchkov would hire a luxury se- men when you’re traveling? Mokhovaya Street stood in my way, im- house in the Tagansky district in south- dan, about 10,000 rubles for two hours. A. Recently, no. If I’m in Paris, I’d much posing, and there were no crosswalks east Moscow, I found that nearly no one Afternoon Activity rather take a walk and discover some- to be found. Jaywalking seemed inad- went alone. Groups of old men chatted, Low thing amazing than be stuck on a tread- visable — no one else was doing it, so I laughed, teased one another and sipped Visitors must travel the Moscow Metro High mill at my hotel. If it’s more than a few wasn’t about to, either. A stairway that tea together in the lounge. “It’s where at least once. It’s fast, relatively easy to River cruises can be a great way to days, I will work out because my body is led down to a passage under the street you would go to talk about your darkest navigate and cheap: Rides are 50 rubles see a city — why not do it in style? Mr. so used to it, but my last trips have been eventually got me to my destination, secrets,” Mr. Kryuchkov said. each if purchased one at a time, or just Kryuchkov suggested booking a first- short ones, and I haven’t. late to my meeting with Gleb Kryuch- I headed in one weekday ready to take 32 rubles if bought in conjunction with a class ticket for 2,000 rubles aboard a Do you have a regular routine you follow kov, chief concierge at the hotel, where advantage of the early bird special: 750 “Troika” transit card. (I later splurged Radisson Royal cruise ship for a leisure- rooms are decidedly not frugal. rubles instead of the usual 1,500. When and took an Uber to the airport; at only ly journey down the Moscow River. The when you’re on planes? Enjoying Russia’s capital, a huge, dy- I arrived, though, I was charged full 1,000 rubles, it cut a two-hour trip in cabin is on the upper deck of the boat, I drink tons of water, and I have a vita- namic city of 12.5 million people, can price despite my protests. Later, when half.) promising gorgeous views of the city. min sachet that I put in it. Also, I mois- take a bit of work. But if you’re willing to I asked an attendant why, he said flat- Additionally, “a private atmosphere turize my skin and put on a mask. I try put in the effort, the rewards are abun- ly, “For Muscovites only.” As a tourist in among your set of people” (presumably not to eat rubbish either. I’ll pack sal- dant. Mr. Kryuchkov loves his home- Moscow, I was learning, you often have Lunch the well-heeled) is assured. ad and fruit. If I’m going on an over- town, as any good concierge should. to pay more. A glass of Moët Champagne will set night flight, I’ll drink whiskey or a glass “A concierge is someone who cannot Vorontsov had everything a good High you back an additional 2,200 rubles. A of wine and then go to sleep, but on day live without their city. If I work some- bathhouse should: blisteringly hot sau- There are few better places for a meal potential boost to your self-esteem? place else, I think I will be bad at my na, cool-down pool, and plenty of show- than Mr. Kryuchkov’s next sugges- Priceless. flights, I try not to drink. When I land, job,” he told me as he opened the door ers and washing stations. The sauna tion: only 17, in fact, at least according I try to find a sauna to sit in for 20 min- to a sprawling $20,000-a-night suite was the hottest I’d ever been in — so hot to the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” Low utes to help me sweat out all the germs that had, among other amenities, an ice that the small locker room key I wore list, where White Rabbit occupies spot A different and much cheaper way of from the plane. maker built into the wall. around my wrist began to burn into my No. 18. The tasting menu, which fea- transporting yourself out of the noise, Do you indulge in meals when you’re on “I love Moscow,” he said. “It has so skin. Not wanting to look bad in front tures shchi (a kind of cabbage soup) dust and concrete of central Moscow: the road? much history, and is full of life.” the Moscow Botanical Gardens, recom- Absolutely. When I’m traveling, I would I wasn’t staying in the suite Mr. mended by Maria, a young woman I met rather eat what I want and come home Kryuchkov showed me, of course, but who had studied in Moscow. “It’s one of I was hoping to tap his knowledge of my favorite places in the city,” she told and tighten it up. I don’t want to be in Moscow’s finer things and tailor it to me. “It’s very peaceful.” I have to agree Paris and not have a croissant or goose my own budget. I asked him to create with her. Not only that, but it was free. fat potatoes. I love pasta in Italy, bread a day itinerary for a hypothetical high- The 890-acre park, created after World and cheese in Spain and wine every- spender that would total roughly $1,000, War II, contains thousands of plant va- where. You don’t have to indulge all day, or about 63,000 rubles. I would endeav- rieties. I hiked some of the park’s many every day, but I think it’s important to or to recreate the spirit of that itinerary paths for part of the afternoon, enjoying your psyche to have flexibility and gen- on only $100. the quiet and clean air. uinely enjoy the food wherever you are. Bonus activity: The Museum of Sovi- et Arcade Machines is a must for any- Is there a meal that sticks out as the Breakfast one with even a passing interest in video most memorable? games. For 450 rubles, patrons get 15 to- There’s a restaurant on Koh Kood Is- High kens, each good for one in the museum’s land in Thailand called Benz’s. You get Mr. Kryuchkov recommended break- vintage game collection: Tank Training on a boat and go up a river to get there. fast at the Café Pushkin, a relatively Area and Probe were both good, but my It is the most exquisite, spicy Thai food new restaurant that evokes a far more favorite was probably the Giant Turnip. I’ve ever had. The flavors were incred- venerable feel by virtue of its location ible. in the house of an 18th-century Russian Do you have a favorite vacation spot? nobleman. A breakfast of black caviar Dinner and blini (Russian pancakes, typically I love going to Mexico. There’s a resort buckwheat), a glass of Champagne and High there called Cuixmala that’s incredible a cappuccino is roughly 7,000 rubles. Our fictitious traveler might enjoy a for kids. But the best vacation I’ve ever dinner at Bolshoi, which incorporates taken was with my kids to Indonesia. Low French touches into traditional Russian We stayed at a resort in Bali and then Bratya Karavaevy, which means “Broth- cuisine. Dinner, which has featured gn- slept on a wooden boat for three or four ers Karavaevy” — presumably an allu- occhi with lobster and grilled artichokes nights and also hiked with the Komodo sion to “The Brothers Karamazov” — is with truffle vinaigrette, will run around dragons. It was a magical trip. popular with Moscow locals for a rea- 5,000 rubles. Bolshoi has live music son. The small chain’s offerings of pas- nightly and is mere steps from the leg- You’ve stayed in more than your fair tries, breads, salads and sandwiches are endary Bolshoi Theater. share of hotels. What do you think fresh, fast and cheap. I paid just 160 ru- makes for a great property? bles for a tender, flaky croissant and a Low Service and food are important. Also, very decent latte. Dining frugally doesn’t mean you good sheets and a comfortable bed. It can’t eat at nice places, it just means you doesn’t necessarily have to be fancy. have to treat the menu with a slightly What destinations haven’t you been to Morning Activity more discerning eye. I went to Chestna- that are on your wish list? ya Kuhnya (roughly, “Honest Kitchen”) I’d love to go to Bhutan, Nepal, Cambo- High and was treated to a meal of simple, rus- “The best traditional banya, or Rus- tic Russian cuisine in an elegant setting. dia and Vietnam. I would also love to do sian bath, is arguably Sanduny,” Mr. I ordered deer tartare with quail egg something more adventurous like Ice- Kryuchkov told me. Sanduny, located and Parmesan cheese that positively land in the winter. near the Central Bank of Russia, is the melted on the tongue. A series of small Both the Zika virus and terrorist attacks oldest public bathhouse in the country. hand pies weren’t as good, but salmon have made people more apprehensive to Founded in 1808 by the actor Sila Sand- and pike caviars served with crunchy travel. What’s your attitude about trav- unov, Sanduny positively oozes privi- buttered toast made up for it. eling given these recent concerns? lege with its Greek columns, spacious The total bill was just under 2,000 ru- You have to educate yourself about bathing pools, leather sofas, Rococo AROUND TOWN The luxurious Sanduny, top, is the oldest public bathhouse in Russia, founded in bles — an undeniably luxurious meal décor and marble accents. Of course, 1808. Above, a waiter making preparations at the Café Pushkin; Kamchatka crab at the White Rab- for anyone, no matter the budget, at an what’s safe and not, but you have to you’ll certainly pay for the luxury: bit; and cruise boats waiting to depart by the Radisson hotel on the Moscow River. eminently affordable price. keep living your life. THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL 7 Science+Technology

TECH FIX gle outlet to charge four USB devices at the same time. The most annoying part of renting a car is all the upsells, particularly the extra fee for a GPS device and a mount — as if your smartphone The Devices That Deserve did not provide maps already. The best solution is to pack your own smartphone car mount. TechMatte’s MagGrip CD Slot, which costs only $11, is a fantastic travel companion on trips To Go Along on Vacation with lots of driving. The mount holds your phone with a magnet; you put a magnet sticker on your smartphone case, so mounting your phone is as simple as tapping the back of the phone on The gadgets that serves us best on top of the magnet. What’s more, be- a plane, in a hotel or at an Airbnb. cause the MagGrip hooks up to an un- SCIENCE TAKE used CD player slot, the phone doesn’t block your view of the road. BY BRIAN X. CHEN As for playing music from your phone, Scientists Ponder Children are usually forced to pick just I recommend packing a standard audio one or two of their beloved stuffed an- jack that connects a smartphone with An Evolutionary imals to take with them on vacation. a stereo system, like the $5 audio cable Adults should consider doing the same from Amazon. with their electronic devices. Mystery: The You don’t want to weigh down your In an Airbnb House travel bag with gear you will bare- When renting a house on Airbnb or Female Orgasm ly use. And you probably should leave a similar site like HomeAway, the situ- your more expensive gadgets at home, ation may be different from a hotel if a unless you want to become a target for large group and a kitchen are involved. The phenomenon does not appear muggers. This may sound odd, but I have found to play a role in procreation. What to do? My personal packing it extremely useful to pack a sous vide starts with devices that are compact precision cooker on Airbnb trips. First, and lightweight. The price tag should a primer: A sous vide cooker heats wa- not exceed $500, and if my smartphone ter to a precise temperature; you seal BY SHIVANI VORA can capably perform a task, I don’t food like steaks and salmon into plastic An eye is for seeing, a nose is for smell- bother with something that does the bags and immerse them in the water to ing. Many aspects of the human body same thing. cook them evenly at that temperature. have obvious purposes. Here is a guide to products that I have The $199 Anova Precision Cooker, But some defy easy explanation. For found useful on an airplane, in a rental recommended by our technology col- biologists, few phenomena are as mys- car, in a hotel, in an Airbnb house rent- umnist Farhad Manjoo, is slim enough terious as the female orgasm. al and outdoors, or traveling overseas. to store in a weekender bag. Ano- While orgasms have an important I have tested all of the items in the last va’s cooker also includes a bracket so role in a woman’s intimate relation- few years, and some of them were pur- that the device can be easily mount- ships, the evolutionary roots of the ex- chased through The Wirecutter, a prod- ed to your Airbnb host’s cooking pot — perience have been difficult to uncover. uct recommendations website and cre- meaning all you probably need to pack For decades, researchers have put ative partner of The New York Times. are the cooker and some zip- close bags. forward theories, but none are wide- ly accepted. Now two evolutionary bi- On the Plane A UE Roll Bluetooth If You Go Outdoors ologists have joined the fray, offering a This happens too often: After cram- speaker can When you’re outside, you don’t need new way of thinking about the female ming into your airplane seat, you shut improve sound much technology other than a camera. orgasm based on its ancient history. your eyes to relax and a baby starts quality on the road. Assuming you bought a smartphone in In The Journal of Experimental Zo- screaming behind you. You need a me- the last few years, don’t bother packing ology, the authors conclude that the re- dia device to drown out the noise with an extra camera like a GoPro — that’s sponse originated in mammals more music or a movie. just extra space and another power ca- than 150 million years ago as a way to My favorite media tablet for trav- ble to carry around. release eggs to be fertilized after sex. el is the Apple iPad Mini, which starts Instead, if you’re going to be in the Until now, few scientists have inves- at $399 (though I would buy the $499 water kayaking or splashing around at tigated the biology of distantly related model for the extra storage). Its com- the beach, consider a waterproof smart- animals for clues to the mystery. pact size makes it easier to rest on an phone case like LifeProof’s Fre, which “For orgasms, we kept it reserved airplane tray. Because it is a multifunc- fits snugly around an iPhone to protect for humans and primates,” said Mihae- tional tablet, you can choose from a host it from water without making it look la Pavlicev, an evolutionary biologist at of distractions, such as reading a book ugly. University of Cincinnati College of Med- and playing a mobile game. (In other icine. “We didn’t look to other species to words, leave your Kindle at home.) Traveling Abroad dig deeper and look for the origin.” For watching videos on a tablet, Roku's Streaming Stick can remotely access movies from HBO, Hulu and Netflix. Earlier this year, I wrote a guide on SeaGate’s wireless portable hard drive, taking your smartphone abroad while which costs $100, may also be worth traveling, which involved unlocking it stowing in your carry-on luggage. and buying foreign SIM cards. Some TECH FIX Ahead of your trip, you can load mov- readers encouraged me to also mention ies and other media onto the hard drive, Google’s Project Fi, which is offered in and the drive creates its own Wi-Fi net- more than 120 countries and charges Alexa, What work to stream movies to your iPad. the same rate no matter where you are: As for earphones, I will skip recom- $20 a month for unlimited minutes and Else Can You mending a fancy pair of earbuds — just text messages and $10 per gigabyte of another small, valuable item to lose on data. a trip. In my testing of Google Fi for a few Do? Getting The Anova Precision Cooker turns an Airbnb kitchen into one like home. weeks, I found that the service offered In the Hotel robust coverage comparable to that of More From Most hotels include cable television, but traditional wireless carriers. Howev- after channel surfing for a few hours, er, there are caveats: Google Fi is avail- Amazon Echo you will realize that the only movies able only on a small number of Android that ever seem to air are “Total Recall” phones, and in foreign countries, the and “The Shawshank Redemption.” data speeds are capped. I recommend Tinkerers ca read up to get more Chances are you will be aching for the a Google Fi phone, with prices starting out of an electronic assistant. variety of programs you could get from at $199 on Google’s webpage, for people streaming services like Netflix, Hulu who frequently travel abroad. But and HBO. So I would pack Roku’s new for those who seldom go overseas, it Streaming Stick, which is the size of a is more practical to use a foreign SIM BY BRIAN X. CHEN thumb drive, making it easy to stow in card with your own phone. Bill Pyszczymuka was installing an a travel pouch. Also when traveling abroad, your air-conditioner in an upstairs window One major bonus of the Roku stick is a smartphone battery is going to be last spring when it occurred to him that feature called Hotel & Dorm Connect. It struggling because of all the pictures there was a way to control the machine bypasses an obstacle in many hotels — you take. For iPhones, I recommend without getting up from the couch the requirement that you log into their Apple’s $99 Smart Battery Case — it of- downstairs: his AmazonEcho. Wi-Fi networks through a web page fers enough power to keep your phone Mr. Pyszczymuka, who lives in Sche- — by letting you enter the credentials running all day. You can also charge it nectady, N.Y., figured the Echo — Am- through your smartphone browser. with the Lightning cable included with azon’s $180 internet-connected speak- Another common headache in a hotel iPhones, so you will have one fewer er — could be connected to an app that is finding enough outlets to charge mul- power cable to pack. For Androids, the controls a Wi-Fi-connected power plug. tiple gadgets. Anker’s four-port USB A wireless portable hard drive can be A memory stick can be AmazonBasics Portable Power Bank is By plugging the air-conditioner into the wall charger can be plugged into a sin- loaded up with movies before a trip. used to transfer files. an excellent battery pack. smart power outlet, he could turn the air-conditioner on or off just by speak- ing a command to the Echo. “The moment of truth came when I APP SMART asked, ‘Alexa, turn on the air-conditioner,’” he said. “The unit beeped upstairs, with Alexa telling me, ‘O.K.’ I thought it was more than O.K. It was cool.” Mr. Pyszczymuka is part of a prolific Is Hypnosis All community of Echo tinkerers who are using the smart speaker for much more than playing music. Since Amazon re- leased the Echo last year, it has quickly become the top-selling home audio In Your Head? speaker on Amazon.com and one of the company’s most successful hardware products. People have put the speaker Brain imaging shows that our minds work differently when in a trance, to work as a shopping assistant, kitch- with decreased activity where daydreaming and self-reflection take place. en help and home automation tool. Yet making the Echo a smarter speaker is not intuitive. And, if consumers do BY ERICA GOODE not do any research or tinkering, Am- You are getting sleepy. Very sleepy. You “I think we have pretty definitive evi- azon’s virtual assistant, Alexa, can ap- will forget everything you read in this dence here that the brain is working dif- pear lacking in capabilities compared article. ferently when a person is in hypnosis,” with Apple’s Siri and Google’s voice as- Hypnosis has become a common said Dr. David Spiegel, a professor of sistant. That’s because Alexa’s data- medical tool, used to reduce pain, help psychiatry and behavioral sciences at base isn’t as mature or thorough as oth- people stop smoking and cure them of Stanford. ers that have been on the market longer. phobias. Dr. Spiegel said the findings might Consumers can make their Echo a But scientists have long argued about explain the intense absorption, lack of hipper audio player by tweaking just a whether the hypnotic “trance” is a sepa- self-consciousness and suggestibility few settings. By default, the Echo will rate neurophysiological state or simply that characterize the hypnotic state. play music from Amazon’s streaming a product of a hypnotized person’s ex- He said one particularly intriguing music library. But Amazon recently let pectations. finding was that hypnotized subjects people change the default music play- A study published recently by Stan- showed decreased interaction between er to more popular streaming services, ford researchers offers some evidence a region deep in the brain that is active Hypnosis is a useful tool in psychotherapy to get patients to look at problems in a new way. likeSpotify and Pandora. for the first explanation, finding that in self-reflection and daydreaming and To change the default music player, some parts of the brain function differ- areas of the prefrontal cortex involved 36 who scored very highly on tests mea- they felt during the inductions. open the Alexa smartphone app. Then ently under hypnosis than during nor- in planning and executing tasks. suring susceptibility to hypnosis. Brain Although some researchers contin- tap Settings, tap Music and Media, and mal consciousness. “That’s why the stage hypnotist can activity during hypnosis was also com- ue to argue that hypnosis is a state pro- tap Choose Default Music Services and The study was conducted with func- get a football coach to dance like a bal- pared with activity during resting peri- duced by people’s expectations, not by select Spotify for your default music li- tional magnetic resonance imaging, a lerina without feeling self-conscious ods and during a memory task. biology, Dr. Spiegel said, “At some point, brary or Pandora for your default sta- scanning method that measures blood about what he’s doing,” Dr. Spiegel said. In the hypnosis task, the subjects I just think it becomes a kind of self-ful- tion service. flow in the brain. It found changes in He added that it might also explain, at were guided through two guided pro- filling word game.” The downside of forming a bond with activity in brain areas that are thought least in part, why hypnosis is an effec- cedures for hypnotic inductions: in one, “I see hypnosis as a kind of app you Echo and Alexa? You will wish it can to be involved in focused attention, the tive tool in psychotherapy for getting they were instructed to imagine a time haven’t used on your cellphone,” he help you with everything, everywhere monitoring and control of the body’s people to look at a problem in a new way. when they felt happiness; in the other, said. “It’s got all kinds of capacity that — including filing an expense report on functioning, and the awareness and The researchers screened 500 poten- they were told to imagine a vacation. people are just figuring out how to use, the go or turning down the volume of a evaluation of a person’s internal and ex- tial subjects for susceptibility to hypno- All the subjects were asked in the but if you haven’t used it the phone loud co-worker. At least you will always ternal environments. sis and then compared brain activity in study to rate how deeply hypnotized doesn't do that.” have a friend waiting for you at home. 8 THE NEW YORK TIMES | INTERNATIONAL Health

FITNESS Can Running Make You Smarter?

A protein that helps muscles may have benefits for the brain too.

BY EMILIE LE BEAU LUCCHESI To strengthen your mind, you may first want to exert your leg muscles, according to a sophisticated new experiment involving people, mice and monkeys. The study’s results suggest that long- term endurance exercise such as running can alter muscles in ways that then jump-start changes in the brain, helping to fortify learning and memory. Previous experiments have strong- ly suggested that while mental stimulation is important for brain health, physical stimulation is even more potent. But so far scientists have not teased out pre- cisely how physical movement remakes the brain, although all agree that the process is bogglingly complex. Fascinated by that complexity, researchers at the National Institutes of Health recently began to wonder whether some of the necessary steps might be taking place far from the brain itself, and specifically, in the muscles. Working muscles contract, burn fuel WORKING OUT Michael Sprague riding Apollo during a session at Horsefeathers Therapeutic Riding in Lake Forest, Ill. Hippotherapy is used to treat a variety of physical and intellectual disabilities. and pump out a wide variety of proteins and other substances. MEDICAL horse takes, the rider must subtly work might double as a command to have the The N.I.H. researchers suspected to stay upright. horse “go.” that some of those substances migrated “That’s the power of this — it’s an At Horsefeathers, the founder and ex- from the muscles into the bloodstream intensive movement experience,” Dr. ecutive officer Nick Coyne has 10 gentle and then to the brain. But which sub- Shurtleff said. “The person on the horse horses and ponies he uses for both hip- stances were involved was largely a For Some Patients, is forced to respond to that movement.” potherapy and adaptive riding, which mystery. In the new study, they zeroed For riders like Jack Foster, who has enables people with physical and men- in on one substance in particular, a pro- been doing hippotherapy for over a tal disabilities to ride horses. He refers tein called cathepsin B that is known to year, the pelvic thrust helps to strength- to some of his animals as “bomb hors- help sore muscles recover. en the low muscle tone in his neck and es,” meaning a bomb could go off and To determine whether cathepsin Therapy Comes trunk, while relaxing the muscles in his the horse would not react. B might, in fact, be involved in brain hips and thighs. In his daily life “he will The horses are all trained to stop health, the researchers added a little arch and extend, which makes his hips promptly if they sense a rider is slip- of the protein to living neurons in oth- and his thighs really tight,” Ms. Foster ping and to ignore the sudden, delight- er petri dishes. They found that those said. “Sitting on the horse stretches it.” ed shrieks a rider might make, as well brain cells started making more pro- On Horseback During a typical therapy session, as spastic movements, Mr. Coyne said. teins related to neurogenesis. Jack sits on this horse facing both for- Alex Brock, 22 of Lake Bluff, Ill., has Cathepsin B also proved to be abun- ward and backward. Sessions can in- microcephaly and cerebral palsy, and is dant in the bloodstreams of mice, mon- BY EMILIE LE BEAU LUCCHESI clude a ball toss or placing rings onto also nonverbal and incontinent and has keys and people who took up running, long rods and cones, designed to im- difficulty processing language. He aged the scientists found. During the exper- Three-year-old Jack Foster sat on his mother’s lap as she prove trunk and neck control as well as out of the public school system, but once iment, concentrations of cathepsin B his reaching abilities. a week he eagerly leaves his wheelchair in jogging animals and people steadily wrapped a towel carefully around his neck. “Jack has ce- Researchers are now testing hippo- to work with Mr. Coyne as an adaptive rose, and all runners began to perform rebral palsy and low muscle tone,” said his mother, Emily therapy as an intervention for adults rider. better on tests of memory and thinking. with multiple sclerosis and other neu- His mother, Trina Brock, was initial- Foster, of Northbrook, Ill. “The biggest challenge is holding rological disorders. Dr. Deborah Silk- ly incredulous when she heard about his head up.” wood-Sherer, the program director for adaptive riding at Alex’s former high the physical therapy department at school. “My first thought was, how is he WHAT IN THE WORLD With help from his occupational ther- intellectual disabilities, language disor- Central Michigan University, said hip- going to ride a horse?” she said. But she apist, Ms. Foster fit a riding helmet on ders and sensory processing disorders. potherapy can also boost motivation in said her son now eagerly anticipates his Jack’s head and clicked the chinstrap The natural movements of the horse children who have disabilities and have weekly visits to the barn, and says the Why Finland’s buckle into place. She then watched as and the environmental cues enable ther- been in therapy for years. exercise helps strengthen his trunk. the occupational therapist and two vol- apists to work toward treatment goals in “People don’t realize they are work- It takes three people to help Alex ride, Newborns Sleep unteers positioned her young son onto a a setting that might feel like fun, but that ing hard on a horse,” Dr. Silkwood-Sher- and Ms. Brock said the first time she red pony. Jack seemed delighted as one research shows can have real benefits. A er said. The visual and sensory input of saw her son on a horse, “I cried.” volunteer stood to his right and softly recent study in Physical & Occupation- a barn and stable setting provides addi- Hippotherapy is not suitable for ev- In Boxes sang, while another led the pony slow- al Therapy in Pediatrics, for example, tional stimulation. “For kids, they never eryone. Ms. Bazaar said some clients ly around the arena. found that children with cerebral palsy think they are doing therapy.” turn out to have horse allergies, and al- Jack was at Horsefeathers Therapeu- had increased body control after only 10 Meredith Bazaar of Ringwood, N.J., a lergy medications can make them too The government gift is seen as tic Riding in Lake Forest, Ill., for hippo- sessions of hippotherapy. Gross and fine speech and language pathologist, uses drowsy to participate. People with spi- helping to reduce infant mortality. therapy, a form of equine-assisted ther- motor skills also improved. hippotherapy to treat clients, includ- nal abnormalities like spina bifida may apy conducted by licensed physical, A horse striding around the barn ing those with apraxia, a brain disor- not be good candidates either, and those occupational and speech therapists to takes around 100 steps a minute, said der that makes it difficult to articulate with Down syndrome and other condi- improve muscle tone, speech and other Dr. Tim Shurtleff, an instructor with the or speak words. tions should be first examined by a phy- BY EMILIE LE BEAU LUCCHESI functions (“hippos” is the Greek word occupational therapy program at Wash- “The movement of the horse is so re- sician to determine if their spines are It seems a strange place to put a new- for horse; the American Hippothera- ington University in St. Louis. Each petitive and coordinated,” she said, al- stable enough to endure the rides, she born: a bit of bedding arranged in a py Association has a therapist locator stride pushes the rider’s pelvis forward, lowing her to manipulate a client’s lips, said. cardboard box. But that’s the first place at americanhippotherapyassociation. so after 35 minutes, a rider undergoes chin or cheeks with her hands to help But for children like Jack Foster, rid- that many Finnish infants lay their org). Hippotherapy is used to treat a va- more than 3,000 repetitions of “trunk them make a desired sound. With every ing a horse can open up new opportu- heads. And the simple setup is believed riety of conditions, including brain in- challenge,” in which the trunk is pushed stride the horse takes, the client repeats nities. “It was the first therapy he had to be one reason that Finland has one of juries, cerebral palsy, spine curvature, forward and back. With each step the the target sound, such as “ga,” which done without me,” his mother said. the lowest infant mortality rates in the world — 2.52 for every 1,000 births, less than half that of the United States. Finland gives all mothers-to-be with ECHOES OF POLIO a baby box, but to receive it, the mother has to undergo a medical exam during the first four months of pregnancy. The boxes come with bedding and about 50 other items, including clothes. The program started in the late 1930s,

Finnish babies start in a state-issued crib.

when nearly one of out 10 infants in Fin- land died in their first year. The boxes encouraged women to set aside old habits and see a doctor during pregnancy. They also provided a safe place outside of parents’ beds for infants to sleep. Finland also offers considerable pro- tection for parents: up to 10 months’ paid leave, and a guarantee that whoev- er stays home with a child can return to a job any time before the child turns 3. With the Zika virus landing in the continental United States, some people are drawing parallels to an epidemic in New York City exactly 100 years ago: the first explosive American outbreak of infantile paralysis, a disease later known as polio. By autumn, 6,000 were dead, mostly children, and 21,000 were temporarily or permanently paralyzed. Above, a hospital ward in Beacon, N.Y., in 1916.