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Dunedin &

W hy Go? ...... 189 Coastal Otago has attractions both urban and rural, off ering Otago Peninsula ...... 201 a chance to escape Queenstown’s crowds, party in the South Cromwell ...... 205 Island’s coolest city, and come face to face with the island’s Clyde ...... 207 most accessible wildlife. Otago’s historic heart is Dunedin. With excellent bars, Alexandra ...... 208 restaurants and cafes, it also hosts a vibrant student culture Alexandra to and arts scene. From Dunedin’s stately Victorian train sta- Palmerston ...... 209 tion, catch the famous Taieri Gorge Railway inland, and con- Alexandra to tinue further on the craggily scenic Rail Trail. Dunedin ...... 212 Those seeking backcountry NZ can soak up historic ...... 212 Clyde, atmospheric St Bathans and scenic, rustic Naseby. For North Otago & wildlife, head to the Otago Peninsula, where penguins, alba- Waitaki ...... 212 tross, sea lions and seals are easily sighted. Seaside Oamaru ...... 213 has a wonderful historic precinct, resident penguin colonies Waitaki Valley ...... 218 and a quirky devotion to Steampunk culture. Oamaru to Dunedin ...... 220 Unhurried, and overfl owing with picturesque scenery, Otago is undeniably generous to explorers after something a little less intense. Best Places to Eat » Dunedin Farmers Market When to Go (p197 ) February and March have settled, sunny weather (usually…), » Plato (p195 ) and the juicy appeal of fresh apricots, peaches and cherries. » Riverstone Kitchen (p 216 ) Take to two wheels on the during » Fleur’s Place (p220 ) the quieter months of May and December, or ride graciously into the past on a penny farthing bicycle at Oamaru’s Victo- » Mt Difficulty Wines (p 206 ) rian Heritage Celebrations in November. Best Places to Stay » Arden Street House (p194 ) » Kaimata Retreat (p204 ) » Sublime Bed & Breakfast (p 219 ) » The Church Mouse (p210 ) 188 188 0 50 km 8 0 30 miles Timaru

Lake Lake 1 Hawea 83 Lake Aviemore

H aw W kdunLake Waitaki aitaki Wanaka e Kurow g R V 8 an ange alle 82 R y Duntroon 6 St Bathans Takiroa Maori unstan Rock Art Site Glenavy D Waita Cardrona ki River Bendigo 83 Mt Pisa Elephant Rocks Lake Becks Naseby Danseys Dunstan Pass Lauder Cromwell Wedderburn Oamaru To Bannockburn 85 Ranfurly Queenstown Clyde Ophir (22km)

v Dam R Chatto Creek Clyde Waianakarua All Day Bay vis Hyde 85 Ne Alexandra 8 Otago Central Flat Rail Trail 87 Lake Palmerston Roxburgh Middlemarch 1 lar Range Roxburgh Clutha

River Pukerangi Seacliff Taieri Gorge Rock & Pil Railway Waitati Otago Harbour Raes Lake Otago Peninsula Junction Mahinerangi Port Chalmers Portobello 90 Outram 8 DUNEDIN Mosgiel Lawrence Beaumont St Clair Forest Beach Manuka Gorge Scenic Reserve Gore Milton

Clinton S O U T H Mataura 1 Balclutha P A C I F I C Kaitangata O C E A N Edendale To Invercargill To The (37km) Catlins

Dunedin & Otago Highlights 1 Sampling local beers and at sea lions and fur seals on 6 Winding through gorges, gastronomic excellence in Otago Peninsula (p 201 ) alongside canyons and across the cafes and restaurants of 4 Cycling through lonely tall viaducts on the snaking Dunedin (p189 ) vistas of brown and gold Taieri Gorge Railway (p200 ) 2 Discovering laid-back along the Otago Central 7 Exploring NZ’s southern charm along the quiet Rail Trail (p208 ) heritage in villages like Clyde northern shore of Otago 5 Tasting some of the (p207 ) and Naseby (p 210 ) Harbour (p 199 ) planet’s best pinot noir amid 8 Experiencing a heritage 3 Peering at penguins, the vineyards of Bannockburn past and a Steampunk future in admiring albatross and staring (p206 ) historic Oamaru (p213 )