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Home , Abi Gamin, Alpine Journal, Alpine style, Bethartoli, Direttissima (climbing), Distaghil Sar

Volumes 74 to 92

INDEX

The Alpine Journal 1969-87

Compiled by J .R. Murray

The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London Wl Y 5FF ISBN 0 900523 56 5

Printed by Titus Wilson & Son Ltd., Kendal, Cumbria. Foreword This index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume. The only illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those of single or ranges which are likely to be helpful or of interest. Now that there are more articles about the Greater Ranges than the , the Special Districts section in this index has been expanded to include Alpine articles.

I am grateful to Mr W.L. 'Robin' Robinson for his practical help and very useful advice in compiling this index, and to Sheila Harrison for her work on the typescript and for coping with my hand-writing.

The following abbreviations have been used :

art. = article M.E.F. = Foundation Aig. = Aiguille Mt = Mount, Mont asc. = ascent Mte = Monte C.A.F. = Club Alpin Francais obit. = obituary c.A.1. = Club Alpin Italiano port. = portrait ed. = editor Pt = Point exped(s) = expedition(s) Pta = Punta Ln. = footnote Pte = Pointe ill. = illustration U.I.A.A. = Union International I.M.F. = Indian des Associations Federation d' Alpinisme

John Murray GENERAL INDEX 3 ABALAKOV, V.M.: obit. 92289 Accidents: Abi Gamin: 4th asc., 75 195 Transalai Pamir, 80 263 Abominable Snowman: Tukucha West, 76229 investigation, 80 101-4 Unnamed (Himachal Pradesh), notes, 80 285; 85 247 74226 Abraham, A.P. & G.D.: Vancouver, Mt, 74242 their careers, art. 79 55 Aconcagua: new route on, 84241 note on, 80284 guidebook, 88 244 Access problems: in Britain, 83256 asc. of S face, 89 159 in USA, 83 257 ill. 89 following 160 Accidents: statistics, 74 145 Acute sickness: and equipment, 74307-8 pulmonary & cerebral oedema, and rescue, 75 265 art. 81 217; 89 68 Alpine 1968, 75 265 see also Oedema Alpine 1969, 75 137 Adam Smith, G.: Survey of British 1959-68, 75 265; early Alpine Club member, 87 142 87234 Adam Smith, J.: 'A family century IMF concern about Himalayan, in the Alpine Club', 87 142 87234 Adams, M: , 7632; 79 255; 84231; 'Northern Andean Butterflies - 85223-4 Search and Research', 89 90 Atrak Zorn South, 74 197 Adcock, D.: 'Yerupaja traverse: the Himal, 76 226 NZ expedition', 747 Blanc, Mt (1870), 76287 Adesfjell: Blanc, Mt, , 76 193 1st asc. by SE cracks, 76 191 , 82 132-3 Adiabatic Lapse Rate: 81 82 Buchaille Etive, 76 337-8 Aerosols: Chomolhari, 76223 effect on atmosphere, 84247 Cook, Mt, 78 244 : see also Atlas, Ethiopia, Dhaulagiri, 75 197 Hoggar, Kenya, Kilimanjaro, Dhaulagiri IV, 75 196; 79 255; Niger, Rhodesia, Ruwenzori, 80264 Uganda Eiger Nordwand, 74 67 East: triennial report 1971-3, Everest, Mt, 80266; 81 13; 82 30, 79225 34; 85223 notes: Everest, Mt, NE ridge, 88 262-5 1975, 81 236 1979, 85220 Fitzroy, 79 259 1976, 82235 1980, 86223 Frundenhorn, 75 142 1978, 84223 Grand Capucin, 76 193 North: triennial report 1971-3, Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur, 79226 75139 South: triennial report 1971-3, , 92215-7 79219 Kenya, Mt, 76 208 notes: Khinyang Chhish, 7724 1968, 74182 1981, 87219 Koh-i-Bandaka, 74 196 1969,7571,150 1982, 88203 Lamtrang Lirung, 84 232 1972, 78234 1983, 89228 Malubiting, 74 224; 76 189 1974, 80261 1984, 90240 , 79 18-20; 80 99 1975, 81236 1985, 91 223 Manaslu E face, 78241 1978, 84223 1986, 92233 , 74 67 1980, 86221 Nanda Khat, 76 227 events & trends 1974-6, 82 227 Nanga Parbat, 76 221 scene, art. 85 182; 87 109 Peak 29, 76229 Table Mountain, history of, 83 120 Picos de Norte, Cordillera Real, guidebook to Mulanje Massif, 78204 85221 Shispare, 80225 guidebook to Atlas Mts, 86 224 4 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Agner, Mte: 1st British asc. of N Algeria: face, art. 74 36 Djurdjura mountains, note, 77243 by N ridge, 75 146 Algie, Sir R.M.: obit. 85 259 Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., Sir C.H., Ali Ratni Tibba: 1st asc., 75 9 Bt.: 'Elephant Island', 77 204 by S face, 78 42 'Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del local name of, 7843 Norte', 7943 4th asc., 79 22, 27 'Soldiers on Api', 86 167 Allalinjoch: crossed, 74 89 Agnolotti, G.: his book: (with G. Allan, I.: 'The desert of Pettigiani) Cordigliera tra cielo e Kilimanjaro', 82171 ghiaccio, 86 255 his book (editor): Guide to Mt Agresti, H.: 'Winter Climbing in the Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 88241 Massif', 77 197 Allen, c.: his book: A Mountain in (with I. Agresti) 'In the heart of , 89 248 the Sahara: the Hoggar', 79 103 Allen, J.: Agresti, I.: 'Attempt on Nampa 6755m', 'El Gran Trono Blanco', 82 99 77126 Ahluwalia, Major H.P.S.: his books: Allen, R.: 'Through the Ice Window Higher than Everest. Memoirs of a to Nelion', 91 116 Mountaineer, 84262 Allievi cirque: Faces of Everest, 85253 climbs in, 75 48, 144 Aiguille du Midi: by SE face, 89 126 Allsup, W.: obit. 75331 Aiguille Verte: Cordier Couloir, Alpamayo: asc., 74 248 1st asc., 81 223 by E ridge, 75211 Ainley, R.: obit. 79279 height determined, 75 212 Aioui: 1st ascs. on, 75 148 Alpine Climbing Group: Alam Kuh: 1st asc. by central pillar proceedings: of N face, 75 158 74 352; 75284; 76290; 78 264; : notes & new climbs: 89279 74240-4 83241 Alpine Club: Alpine Climbing 75206 84234 Group, union with, 78264 76239 85226 Annapurna Trek 1981, 87 186 77 250 86229 Avalanche symposium, 85241, 242 78247 88207 archives, guide to, 78 71; 91 293 80268 89221 exhibition of photographs, 89 277, 81243 91215 278 82242 92223 exhibition of watercolours, 85 243 triennial report 1972-74, 80 235 Garhwal meet 1986, 92 85 climbing history, art. 81 19; 83 23; guidebooks, 74 355; 75 288 84 64 joint meeting with R.G.S., 85241 mountains listed, 81 33; map 81 20 meet 1985, 91 53 ill. 81 between 24 & 25 Karakoram symposium 1986, ill. 83 between 24 & 25 92317 Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192 Honorary members, 75 283; Hunter's S ridge, art. 92 10 76 289; 88 289; 89 281 Alberta, Mt: honours & awards, 75 283; 76 289 1st asc. by N face, 78 247 Alpine Journal: a check list, Albigna, Pta d': asc., 78 133 86248-9 Albigna : climbing from, art. new form of, 74351, 75287 84 183 editorial staff, 75 283 Alburni range: climbs in, 78 131 editors: 1863-95, 79 166; 1896- Alcock, D.: his book: (with K. 1926, 80120 Wilson & J. Barry) Cold review of vols 18-38, 80 125-7 Climbs, 89 244 corrections to, 86244; 89281 GENERAL INDEX 5 Alpine Club: Alps: Library, re-organisation & geology of, 80 56~61 cataloguing, 74 356; 82255; events & trends 1975-7, art. 84211 83 255; 84252; 88 285; 89279; a high level mountaineering route, 90 298; 92 318 art. 87 41 children's books, 91 145 picture book: Les Alpes, Coeur de Himalayan Index, 92 318 l', 88 243 management of Alpine Club, 'The inexhaustible', art. 89 121 83254 report of 25th International membership anniversaries, 77271; Congress, book: Les Alpes, 79271 90263 membership rules, 80 283 'The Big Triple Tick' membership survey, 91 291 (Nordwands), 92 165 merger with Ladies Alpine Club, 'Climbing in the in 81257 1983',92176 obituaries: see also Special Districts pr. 63-65. 74353,391 84265 Alpine ice routes: re-appralsal of 75285,331 85259 grades of, 87 207 76291, 323 86262 Altai: climbing in, art. with map 77272,287 87261 & photos, 9047 78264, 281 88255 Altimeters: use of, 84246 79270, 279 89258 Altitude: 80282, 295 90279 history of, art. 8690 81257,267 91264 medical problems of high, art. 82255,265 92280 78153 83254,266 Alto de los Leones: meetings & meets: by new routes, 76247 74351 84259 Ament, P.: 75283 85241 his book: Master of Rock, 86 258 76289 86243 America, North: see 77271 87231 America, South: see South America 78263 88297 Amstutz, W.: 'A visit to the Ishinca 79270 89277 Valley, Cordillera Blanca 80282 90297 1968',7439 81256 91291 'Turner - Promethean of Alpine 82254 92316 Painting', 84 31 83253 Amy, B.: his book (editor): Technique role of, 74353; 75285 de l'Alpinisme, 83264 treasures, rare books & pictures, Anderson, J.R.L.: his books: 88 111; ill. 88 112-3 The Ulysses Factor, 76 305 Valedictory addresses by High Mountains and Cold Seas, Presidents: Evans, 767; Cox, 86251 79 1; Longland, 82 3; Lloyd, Anderson, R.A.L.: 'Avalanche on 853; Jones, 889; Chorley, 919 Sisne - 1977', 83 73 Alps: notes & new climbs: Andes: notes & new climbs: 76241; 74172 84220 77 252; 78252; 90 237 75136 85217 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 76192 86219 triennial report 1971-3, 79228 77235 87207 events & trends 1974-6, 82 219 78228 88 185, 217 legends of the high, art. 88 85 79253 89230 expeditions, arts., 89 161; 92 20, 80256 90251 27, 37, 43, 67 81234 91231 'Andes adventure', art. 90 184, 82233 92244 ill. 90 between 184 & 185 83233 travel book: Adventuring in the road & resort building, 77 273-5 Andes, 91 252 6 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Andes: Anthoine, J.V.: early British ascs. in, 92 61 'Trango Conclusion', 82 184 see also South America, Bolivia, 'The British Ogre Expedition', Peru, Cordilleras Blanca & 833 Real, Ecuador & arts. by Apennines, Central: climbing, art. Echevarria, E. with map & photos, 78 121 see also Special Districts p. 66. Api: attempt, 77248; 86 170 Andorra: circuit of, art. 83 160 Apollo missions: effects in map & note on wild life, 84 254 mountaineering, 75 281 Andrasko, K.: (with T. Moore) photos from, art. 75 66-68 'Shining mountains, nameless Apolobamba, Cordillera: valleys: Alaska & the Yukon', German expedition to, 74271 PU 81 19; Pt.I1 83 23; Spanish expedition to, 75220 PUll 84 64 Apuan Alps: climbs in, 78 129 Andrews, A.W.: pioneer of Ararat, Mt: coasteering, 83 194 climbing on, art. 89 145 Andrews, P.: obit. 76323 Archer, C.H.: , Pic d': 1st asc., 84 24 pioneer of coasteering, 83 194 Ang Kami: death, 76226 Argentiere, Aig. d': Angelini, G.: his book: Civetta - by N face in winter, 75 141 per Ie vie del Passato, 84 263 Argentina: notes & new climbs: d'Angeville, Henriette: 74273 82224 pioneer woman climber, 81 91-2 75223 84241 Anhalzer, J.: his book: (with 76248 85231 R. Navarette) Por los Andes del 77253 86234 Ecuador, 90 273 78251 87226 Annapurna Massif: 79258 88209 All: 2nd asc., 75 198 81249 90238 3rd asc., 79 255 events & trends 1974-6, 82 224 AIV: ascs., 75 198; 76229 triennial report 1971-3, 79233 S face climbed, 82 239 Arhueicocha: 1st asc., 75 212 winter asc., 88 178 Aris, M.: his book: Views of AI: 1st asc. by S face, 76 19 Mediaeval Bhutan, 89 238 2nd asc. by N face, 76 89 Arnao, C.M.: his books: Andinismo radio on, 76 274 en la Cordillera Blanca, 75 307 attempts, 79 255 Huascaran Climbing Guide, 87259 asc., 85223 Arning, Dorothy: obit. 89 264 book of 1981 Swedish Arolla: 50 years ago, 86 188 expedition, 88244 Arolla, Pigne d': asc. on ski, 74 89 AlII: 2nd asc., 76229 Arora, D.C.: death, 76227 A. South (Modi Peak): Arrowsmith Range (NZ): attempts, 77 249; 78 242 1st traverse, 74 238 Ansilta, Cordillera de: Artesonraju: 1st asc. of Pico Fantin, 76249 1st asc. by S face, 75 211 Anson, Sir Wilfrid: obit. 80299 Arzani, c.: his book: I Rifugio del Antarctica: notes, 74 239; 76 251; Club Alpino Italiano, 84263 80271; 82245; 88210; 89220 Asami, M.: (with M. Hara) 'Makalu exploration of, art. with map & - first ascent by SE ridge', 76 35 photos, 89 97 Ascotan: triennial report 1970-2, 78217-9 Indian relics found on, 84 241 list of highest mountains, 86 235 Asgard, Mt: by new route, 7885, Joint Services expedition to ill. 78 86, 88 Brabant Island, art. 91 139 Ash, J.: his book: (with L. Turner) M.E.F. notes, 92 239 The Golden Hordes, 82 261 Anthoine, J.V.: 'El Toro', 76 143 Ashburner, J.: 'The first ascent of 'Trango Tower', 81 45 Mukar Beh', 7458 'Trango Conclusion', 82 184 GENERAL INDEX 7 Asimov, I.: his book: A Choice of Badile, Piz: Catastrophes, 87 258 solo asc. of Cassin route on NE Asp-e-Safed: A-e-S. I: 2nd asc., face, 75 143 75 172 3rd asc., 78 184 asc. by a septuagenarian, art. A-e-S. II: 1st asc., 75 172 7748 A-e-S. SOuth: 1st & 2nd ascs. & Baffin Island: ascs. in, 77 257 1st by N an~te, 75 172 expedition to & asc. of Mt A-e-S. III: 1st asc., 76 215 Asgard's N peak by new route, Aspiazu, J.M.: his book: Alpinismo art. 78 85 espanol en el mundo, 87253 expedition to Cumberland Astronomy: peninsula, 79 261 from mountain observatories, Bagani : attempt on Pt. 89173 23,080ft. from, 74229 Ata-Ullah, Col. M.: obit. 84265 Bagani Pass: crossed, 74 229 Atlas Mts.: Bahuguna, H.: death, 77 16 ascs. in, 75 148; 76 204; 84 223 Baihali Jot: 1st asc., 75 40 notes on a spring trip, 82 235 Bahuguna Peak, 1st asc., 7925,27 mountaineering in winter, art. Bailey, A.: his book: Lakeland 88206 Rock, 91261 notes, 79 226-7 Baj Gaz Pass: search for, 76 163 Atmospheric studies at Jungfraujoch: Bala, M.: 'Skhawr 1975', 82 210 76133 Balaltous, Mt: routes on, 80 135-6 Atrak Zorn South: 1st asc., 74 197 Balakun: 1st asc., 79 255 Audoubert, L.: his book: Peuterey Balcombe, G.: 'Great Gable to Fantastique Integrale, 81263 Wookey Hole', 83 168 Auldjo, J.: his book: Narrative of Baldwin, Miriam: an ascent to the summit of Mt 'Over the Kangla Jot', 88 165 Blanc on 8th and 9th of August, 'The Biancograt', 89 138 1827, 83264 'Margherita Guinea Pig', 91 126 Ausangate: Ball's Pyramid: 1st asc. by NE ridge, 75 219 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 238; 77 220 Ausher (Owir I): 1st asc., 75 80 1st traverse, 79 256 Australia: notes: Ballantine, A.: his book: (with 74236 80268 J. Blashford-Snell) Expeditions the 75202 81243 Expert's Way, 83262 76233 82241 Ballard, J.: his book: (with E. 77219 84233 Marshall) Rock Climbs in the Peak. 78244 85225 Vol. 5: the Derwent Valley, 87258 79256 86228 Balloon, hot air: Western, mountains of, art. 7928 1st crossing of the Alps by, 79 162 climbing in, art. 91 133 Baltoro Kangri: climbed & ski : effects of tourism, 85 240 descentfrom summit, 86 200 Auto-belayer: Balzetto, Piz (Bregaglia): note on, with diagrams, 76 280 climbed by octogenarian, 82 198 Auvergne, the: description of & Bandar Punch (Black Peak): climbs in, 77 190 asc., 74228 Avalanches: on Ben Nevis 86 246; Banks, M.: in Lake District 86 246 'The Uttermost North', 79 174 Aveyron Gorge: description of, his books: Greenland, 81265 82147 Mountaineering for Beginners, Avon Gorge: 83263 early artificial climbing, 83 174 Bara Bangahal: expedition to, 78 179 Barbier, c.: obit. 83266 BADILE, Piz: 1st asc. by NE face , art. 74 1 8 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Barker, R.: his books: Bazel, Pte de: new routes on, 76 194 One Man's Jungle, 81266 Bean, P.: 'The North of England The Last Blue Mountain, 85252 Himalayan expedition 1975', Barley, R.: 'Some new routes in 8283 South Africa', 75 71 'East Kulu 1977', 83 149 'Practice Crags in Scandinavia, Beard, E.: obit. & port., 75 339 78119 Beaumont, Sir J.: seventy years' Barnaj: 1977 attempt, 84 87 membership of Alpine Club, Barnes, M.E.: obit. 90288 77271 Barometer: as altimeter, 86 92 Beckey, F.: his book: Mountains of Baroni, Pta: North America, 89 247 1st asc. by E face, 74 178 Beechey, c.: 'A day on the North by new route on E face, 7550 ridge of the Peigne', 82 186 Barratt, G.: obit. 89263 'Mont Blanc again after 28 years', Barrett, N.: 'Reflections on a First 8517 Trip to the Himalaya', 90 84 Beechey Island, Antarctica: 89 108 'The Lama and the Laser - Two Beer, Dora H. de: Years in Bhutan', 91 90 'A Mountain in China', 90 35 Barry, J.: 'Come on lads - its no obit. & port., 88 257 worse than the Midi-Plan', Beer, Sir G.R. de: obit. 78282 8639 : on snow, the use of the 'Cold Climbing in Cymru', 89 165 'deadman', 74 327-31 his books: The Great Climbing Beldin, D.: guidebooks to Verdon, Adventure, 91 249 90 273 (with K. Wilson & D. Alcock) Bell, Gertrude: Cold Climbs, 89 244 climbing career, 82 103-4 Barry, R.G.: his book: (editor with Bell, Rev. J.A.H.: J.D. Ives) Arctic & Alpine 'A Winter Diary 1925-26', 8837 Environments, 82262 poems, 89 112 Bartle, J.: his book: Trails of the obit. 88256 Cordilleras Blanca and Bellet, J.: his book: Le Col du Huayhuash of Peru, 90 266 Mont Cenis, 83262 'Huascanin National Park', 91 252 Bellows, Grace: her book: A Genius Bartlett, P.: (compiler) 'Climbs and for Friendship, 89 248 Expeditions', 87 207 Bennet, D.: his book: Scottish 'Area Notes 1982', 88 183 Mountain Climbs, 85256 Barton, R.: 'Lauterbrunnen Bennet, G.: his book: Breithorn - North face', 79 71 Beyond Endurance, 89 241 'Bhagirathi III', 88 49 Bennett, M.: 'The Association of Baruntse: asc., 90 91 British Members of the Swiss Baryla, J.: (with M. Brniak) 'The Alpine Club - the first 75 years', Mountains of Mongolia', 86 103 89179 Bates, R.: Ben Nevis: his book: (with C. Houston) K2 - winter climbing, art. 80 185 the Savage Mountain, 85 252 observatory, history of, 90 267 Batin Peak: Benuzzi, F.: his book: 1st asc. of N summit, 74 194 Mattia Zurbriggen, 89 250 Battimelli, G.: 'Sea cliff climbing Berardini, L.: at Gaeta', 84 139 his book: (with R. Paragot) Vingt Battrick, Elisabeth: her book: Ans de Cordee, 80 290 A Lakeland Summer, 86259 Bere, R.: 'Mammals of the East Baudha: ascs., 76 229; 77 249 African Mountains', 79 179 Baume, L.: his book: 'Is there an Abominable Sivalaya. The 8000 metre peaks of Snowman', 80101 the Himalaya, 84 258 'The ', 86 171 GENERAL INDEX 9 Beresford, A.B.: his book: Bingham, J.S.M.: 55-60 Years of Mountaineering in obit. 90 280; 91 266 South Africa, 86256 : see Science notes Bergfiihrergipfel (Nepal Himalaya): Birtles, G.: 'Events and Trends 1st asc., 7917 1974-7 British Isles', 83 227 Bergseeschijen: Biven, P.: obit. & port., 82266 by E wall pillar, 76 200 Bivouac tents: description, 85 237 Bernina: ski mountaineering in, Bjl'lrnstad, E.: 'Sandstone towers of art. 78 139 the American South West desert', Berruex, M.: 8410 his book: (with M. Parmenter) Les Black Forest: Grands Raids a Ski, 90274 climbing in, art. 84 142 Berry, G.: his book: Blackburn, Mt: climbed, 81 30; A Tale of Two Lakes, 89248 ill. 81 31 Bersezio, L.: Blackshaw, A.: retiring as Editor of his book: (with P. Tirone) Mont Alpine Journal, 75 283 Blanc, 90 266 his book: Mountaineering, 76 311 Bethartoli Himal: attempt, 76 225 'Scandinavian Ski traverse 1973-7', 1st asc., 83 239 8391 Bethartoli South: Blaitiere, Aig. de: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 226 ski descent, 74349 Bettembourg, G.: Blakeney, T. S.: retires as Assistant his book: (with M. Brame) The Editor of Alpine Journal & White Death, 90276 becomes Honorary member, Bezruchka, S.: his book: A Guide to 75283 Trekking in Nepal, 87256; 91 259 'The roof of the world from Bhagirathi peaks: Apollo 7', 75 65 BII ascended, 74228 'The first steps towards Mount BIV 1st asc., 78 240 Everest', 76 43 BIll climbed by SW pillar, art. 'The Alpine Journal and its 8854 Editors', 79 166, 80 120, 81 153 ill. 88 preceding 49 obit. 83267 BI 1st asc. of W ridge, 89 189 Blanc, Mt: Bhutan: exploring peaks of NW, art. by Sentinelle Rouge, 74 172 83183 new climbs & notes, 76 192; mountaineering in, 90 10-14; 77 237; 78 228 arts. 90 21; 91 90, 94; ski descent of N face, art. 77 136 map, 90 12-13 winter climbing in Massif of, art. see also Special Districts p. 73 77197 Bickel, L.: his book: 1st solo asc. of entire Peuterey This Accursed Land, 84 260 arete, 78 229 Bicknell, P.: 'The picturesque, the 1st asc. by Brouillard glacier & sublime and the beautiful', upper Peuterey ridge in 1877, 8533 82215 'Treasures of the Alpine Club, bicentenary, art. with ills. 91 150 Rare Books & Pictures', 88 111 Alpine Club delegation to his books: Beauty, Horror and bicentenary, 92 316 Immensity, 87 258 book: Savage Snows, 92260 (editor) The Illustrated guide to, 92277 Wordsworth's Guide to the Blanc du Tacul, Mt: by Gervasutti Lakes, 90 268 pillar, 74173 (with C. Warren) 'Homage to ski descent of Gervasutti couloir, J.M.W. Turner', 91161 74349 Biner, B.: solo asc. by Gervasutti pillar, unveiling of plaque to, 92175 75 138; 76 193 winter asc., 78 10 10 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Blanca, Cordillera: Bonington, c.J.S.: ascs. in, 74247; 76241; 77252 'Annapurna South Face', 76 19 ascs. of Huandoy & Chopicalqui, 'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132 82167, 168 'China 1982', 88 190 1st ascs. in, 83 243-5 'China 1983', 89 193 topography & mountaineering in, 'Antarctica - Mt Vinson', 89 220 art. 85200 'China 1985', 91 201 climbing in, art. with photos, his books: Annapurna South Face, 90184 76300 monographs on mountaineering in, Everest South West Face, 79249 92271 The next horizon, 79249 Blanchard, S.: his book: Walking Up (with others) Changabang, 81 264 and Down in the World, 92269 Everest the hard way, 83 260 Blandy, Mrs E.: death, 75341 Quest for adventure, 87247 Blashford-Snell, J.: his book: (with Kongur, China's Elusive Summit, A. Ballantine) Expeditions the 88231 Experts' Way, 83262 (with C. Clarke) Everest, the Bleaklow: moorland marathon Unclimbed Ridge, 89237 walks, 8071-82 The Everest Years. A Climber's Bledisloe, Viscount (B.L. Bathurst): Life, 92266 obit. 85259 Bonne Pierre, Pte de, les Ecrins: Bliimlisalphorn: 1st British asc., 76 194 by N face direct, 76 198 Books: asc. by 12 year old, 79 205 reviews of various, 77 280; 78 274 Blyth, R.G.: also see under individual book 'A Heinous Crime', 90 198 reviews in each vol. Board game: Booth, B.: 'The 1971 eruption of Mt 'Assault on Mt Everest', 86257 Etna', 77 66 Boardman, P.: 'Recent activity on Mt Etna', 'Hindu Kush - Alpine Style', 78137 79111 'Continents in Collision', 8043 (with R. Richards) 'British Everest his book: (with F. Fitch) Expedition SW face 1975', 81 3 Earthshock, 86 257 his books: The Shining Mountain, Booth, H.: obit. 91 267 84258 Boothman, F.: 'The mountains of Sacred Summits, 88 228 Tibet and the Tibet-China loss of, 88 263 border', 87 83 obit. & port., 88 266 Boots, mountain: Boehm, W.D.: his book: construction of, 81 133-42 Glacier Bay, 82 261 double-single, 85236 Boeing Ledge: for Nordic ski-ing, 86 238 Central Tower of Paine, 80 11-15 , North: Bogner, N.: his novel: climbing on Mt Kinabalu, art. Snowman, 88242 90187; Bohemia: climbing areas, 82 74 map, 90188 Bojohagar: attempt on, art. 90 77 Borthwick, A.: his book: Always a Bolivia: notes, 74 271; 80 270; little further, 75 312; 89251 84 239; 85 229; 89227 Borwick, G.R.: triennial report 1971-3, 79232 'Mountaineering Ropes', 78 62 events & trends 1974-76, 82223 Boscacci: his book: (with others) Bonatti, W.: his books: Montagne di e The Great Days, 80289 Valchiavenna, 89245 On the Heights, 85 252 Bossus, P.: Magie du Mont Blanc, 90277 'Climbing on the Saleve', 80 214 Bonicelli, P.: his book: Pukajirka '81, 90262 GENERAL INDEX 11 Botswana: Bridge, G.: 'Satellite pictures of climbing & walking in, art. 8438 mountains', 83 28 Boundary Range: ascs. in, 74 241 Brigham, B.: 'Underfoot Bourrit: his book: Descriptions des information, history of the Aspects du Mont Blanc, a climber's boot', facsimile edition of book 81133 published in 1776, 83 262 Brightman, D. St. J.: Bouvier, J.-P.: 'The Seventh in 'Ski descent of Mont Blanc', France', 8775 77136 his book: Rock Climbing in Britannia Hut, Saas Fee: British France, 90 263 connections & celebrations, 89 180 Boval, Piz: asc., 81 127-8 British Columbia: Bowden, F.P.: obit. 74391 interior ranges of, 78 1; 79 34 Braham, T.H.: British Isles: notes & new climbs: 'North West Karakoram 1970', 74288 81250 76163 75248 82245 'The Himalaya - winds of change', 76252 83247 7857 77258 84242 his book: Himalayan Odyssey, 78220 85232 80251 79261 86235 Brailsford, J.: his books: 80273 West & Dolomites East, 76313 Scotland: 89216; 90 243 (with L. Griffin) 'Ten Dauphine guidebooks: 86 236 Ice Climbs', 87 180 British Mountaineering Council: Braking in rope handling: 74316 new constitution, 74 361 Brammah: attempt, 77 165 notes, 75 291; 76 293 1st asc., 79 254 Brniak, M.: 2nd asc., 84 103, ill. 84 104 'The Tatra Mountains', 81 119 Brammah's Wife: 'Training grounds of Poland', attempt & 1st & 2nd ascs., 86 183 81213 Bramona, R.: 'Spanish expedition to 'Mountaineering & Motor Bikes', Saraghrar 1977', 83 210 82248 'The 1977 Spanish expedition to 'Main ridge of the Tatra', 82 233 Dhaulagiri 1', 85 190 'Anglo-Polish Hindu Kush Brandt, M.: (with E. Pyatt) Exp«dition 1977', 84 137 'Mountain Landscape - the 'Kohe-Skhawr', 84 172 Jura', 78 146 'International Alpine Camp Braun, B.: his book: 1m Eis und Pamirs 1978', 85 83 Feuer der Anden, 87 260 (with J. Baryla) 'The Mountains of Brautschen, J.: obit. 74 394 Mongolia', 86 103 Breche de Roland: Broad Peak: crossing on skis, 86 76 1st women's asc., 89 11-15 Bregaglia: Broad Peak Middle: 1st asc., 82 132 1971 British ascs. in, 77242 Broad Peak North: Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen: 1st solo asc., 89 212 1st British asc. by N face, 79 71 Broadhead, D.: Brenta Alta: ascs., 74 179 'Mountains of the Thui Gol', Brett, D.: his book: 82115 High Level, 89252 'The International Mountaineering Brevoort, Meta: Camp 1984', 92 122 climbing career, 81 95-96 Broadhead, Margery: obit. 88261 Brewster, B.: death, 7467 Brochkogel: Bridel, D.G.: death, 79270 solo ski descent of S face, 75 33 Bridge, A.W.: 'The Technique of Falling', 83 48 obit. 77294 12 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Brock, W.H.: his book: (compiler Buhl, H.: his climbs, 74 53 with others) John Tyndall, Buildings: climbing on, 83256; Essays of a Natural 84255; 85 246; 86 245 Philosopher, 88240 Bull, D.C.: obit. 80299 Brockbank, P.: Bullock Workman, Fanny: 'Moorland Marathons', 80 71 climbing career, 82 104-6 Brocklebank, T.A.: Buni Zorn Group: obit. 90 282; 91 264 ascs. in, 77 246; 85 150 Brook, Elaine: Bunting, P.: 'Imperial College her book: (with J. Connelly) The Cordillera Real Expedition 1972', Windhorse, 92 273 78201 Brook, P.: obit. 79279 Burdsall, R.L.: Brooke, R.: 'Triennial Report 1970-2 his book: (with A.E. Emmons) Polar regions', 78 213 Men against the Clouds, 86259 'A married man's Alpine holiday', Burgess, Adrian: 'Some 81196 considerations on Himalayan Brooks Range (Alaska): Winter Climbing', 89 207 ascs. in, 74 240; 75 206 Burgess, AI: his book: Browell, M.: his book: (with others) (with J. Palmer) Everest, the Climbs in the Peak. Vol. 6 Ultimate Challenge, 90266 Staffordshire area, 87 257 Burgundy - the Cote d'Or: (with R. Brown) 'South Pembroke climbing crags, 80213 Hazards', 90 148 Burke, M.: 'Vertical desert: the nose Brown, H.: 'The : Kugy's of EI Capitan', 74 125 Kingdom', 82 95 obit. 81 268 'About Irghil M'Goun and the Burkett, M.E.: her book: Bou Gomez', 84 3 (with J.D.G. Sloss) William Green 'The Ridge of Dreams', 92 150 of Ambleside, Lake District his books: Artist, 90 271 Hamish's Mountain Walk, 84 261 Burney, Mt: asc., 80 3 Hamish's Groat's End Walk, Burns, M.: 'One-man Expeditions 87259 and their problems', 89 168 The Great Walking Adventure, Burroughs, W.: 'Atmospheric studies 92270 at Jungfraujoch', 76 133 Travels, 92275 Buscaini,G.: his book: anthology: Poems of the Scottish Ortles-Cevedale. Parco Nazionale Hills, 88235 dello Stelvio, 90259 poems: 'Music' 89 128 Busk, D.: his book: Armand 'By the Crags' 92 36 Charlet - Portrait of a Guide, books of collected poems: 81265 Eye to the Hills, 88247 'Because it wasn't there', 90 170 Time Gentlemen, 89251 Butler, A.J.: Editor of Alpine Brown, R.: (with M. Browell) Journal, 79 172 'South Pembroke Hazards', 90 148 Butler, Sir J.: obit. 82 268 Brown, T.G.: Butterflies: N Andean, art. 8990 centenary exhibition, 88252 Buzzard, J.H.: obit. 90280 Bruce, J.G.: obit. 78283 Bryson, D.C.: obit. 85260 C.A.F. (Provence Sect.): its book: Buchner, R.: 'Climbing in the Les Calanques, 86 257 Franconian Jura in South C.A.I.(Turin Sect.): 'Climbs near Germany', 83 139 Turin - Rocca Sbarua', 86 152; Bueler W.: his book: 87137 Mountains of the World, 84262 (Cuneo Sect.): its book: Buffalo Gorge, North Wall: Montagne Nostre, 84263 note re grading of climbs, 76238 Caiman, Col du: by NW face, 75 138 GENERAL INDEX 13 Calanques: Carrington, R.: 'Some sobering climbing in, 77 185; 8524 thoughts on Nepalese climbing', threat by proposed road, 79 272 88201 guide books, 85 32 Carstensz Massif (New Guinea): topography, 85 22 expedition to, 78 188 general handbook, 86 257 Carstensz Pyramide (New Guinea): California: climbing in Yosemite, climbed, 78 192 art. 74 92, 125 Carter, H. A. : notes & new climbs, 74 242, 245 '1978 American K2 Expedition' Calvert, H.: his book: 84 52 Smythe's Mountains, 91 249 'North America 1982', 88207 Cambales, Pic de: asc., 8672 Casanova, 0.: his book: Escursioni Cambrena, Piz: Nei Parchi Alpini, 84 263 by the ice nose, 78 134 Case, J.e.: obit. 92284 Cambridge: co1\ege climbs, 81 55-6 Cashbrair: 1st asc., 74 226 Cameron, D.: 'First crossing of the correction re., 75 186 Alps by Hot-Air Ba1\oon', 79 162 Cassin, R.: 'The West face of Cameron, I.: his book: Jirishanca 1969', 75 1 Mountain of the Gods, 90264 'Italian climbing between the Campbe1\-Ke1\y, B.: 'Parque wars', 77 149 Nacional de los Glaciares, his books: 50 years of Alpinism, Patagonia', 81 191 87251 his book: A Patagonian (with G. Nangeroni) Lhotse 75, Handbook, 81266 83263 Canada: S Logan mountains, 74 108 Caste1\o, Cima di: 1st asc. by winter ice-climbing in, 79257 central pillar of S face, 75 50, 144 notes & new climbs: 82243; : British-Soviet 1970 83 242; 84 235; 85 227; 86 230 expedition, 76 111 Canadian Arctic, 89221; 91 215; climbing in, art. 86 126 92223 International Mountaineering Western, descriptive art. with Camp in, 1984, art. 92 122 photos & maps, 90229 British Caucasus expedition 1986, Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192 art. 92 129 Cape Farewe1\: Caving: in Britain, art. 80 111 mountaineering prospects, 80 208 Cedarberg: art. 81 128 Cape Province: climbs in, 75 74 Cengalo, Piz: by N ridge, 74 177 Capitan, EI: 1st British asc. by the by N buttress, 76 202 Nose, 74125 Cernfk, A.: his book: Truny Bohu, by Salathe Wa1\, 75 25 87260 Cappon, M.: his book: Cerro Stanhardt: 1st asc., 83 245 Rock and , 89247 Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Alison: Capucin, Grand: obit. 84271 by E face direct, 74 173 Chalk climbing: in France, 76173 Capurata (Chile): 1st asc., 74273 Challis, D.H.: 'Three Peaks in Carabaya, Cordi1\era: Chamba-Lahul 1969', 75 39 ascs. in, 77 211; map 77 212 'One and a half in the Alps' Carleton, Janet: see Adam-Smith, J. 79203 Caroux, the: 81 212 'Forty-four and a half in the Carpendale, R.D.S.: obit. 82268 Himalaya', 85 154 Carr, Evelyn: obit. 91 268; 92 281 Chamlang: 1st ascs. of E & central Carr, H.: 'A Victorian Surveyor- summits, 90 92 Artist in the Himalaya and Chamonix: Chamonix, une vallee des Karakoram', 83 12 hommes, descriptive book, 90259 his book (editor): The Irvine Champion, J.A.: 'Single Crystals - Diaries, 85 249 natural and synthetic', 78 98 obit. 92297 14 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Changabang: 1st asc., 80 151, 239, China: Kongur Massif, art. 867 ill. 80 154, 156 notes re climbing in, 86227 ref. to & photo, 81 69-70 expedition to Da Xue Shan, art. ascs. by new routes, 82 239 87117 1st asc. by W face, 8223 new climbs, 88 190; 89 193; Chap Darrah: 1st ascs. from, 76 215 90 213; 91 201 Chapman, F.S.: obit. & port, 77 291 book: High Mountain Peaks in Chappez, M.: his book: China, 88 243 La Haute Route, 81 264 mountaineering in, art. with Chaputschin II: ski asc., 75 128 map & photos, 90 23 Chardonnet, Aig. du: a mountain in, art. 90 35 description of traverse, 82 142 caving in, M.E.F. note, 92243 Charleson, 1.G., obit. 80300 Chitral: 1971 expedition to, 78 183 Charlet, A.: obit. 82 269 Chobani La: pass in E Kishtwar, Chartreuse group: map, 8935-37 descriptive art. 82 120 : Chaturangi Glacier: 1st asc. of Peak 1st traverse of, art. 92 74 20,684ft. from, 75 195 Cholatse: 1st asc., 88 27 Chaudhara: 1st asc., 79255 Chomolhari: 2nd asc., 76 233 Chaupi Orco: 1st traverse, 75 221 ref. to & photos, 83 184, 188 Cheesmond, D.: 'The Mummer - Chongra Peak, Kashmir: Cordillera del Paine, Chile', 1st asc., 78 240 84117 Chopicalqui, Nevado: Cheney, M.: 'Events and Trends 1st asc. by SE ridge, 75 13 1970-76Nepal Himalaya', Chorley, Lord: obit. 84 265 83218 Chorley, Katherine, Lady: 'Letter from Kathmandu', 88 199 obit. 92310 'Notes for Expeditions to Nepal', Chorley, R.: as President of Alpine 89203 Club, Valedictory Address, 919 'Tourist Portage', 90 208 Chouinard, Y.: his books: Cheverst, W.: death, 78264 Climbing Ice, 84259 Chew, F.R.G.: obit. 76323 Glace et Neige - Art et Technique, Chhutidum glacier: 87256 map & reconnaissance, 74205-6 Chrobak, E.: 'New route on the Chi Gari glacier: Grand Pilier d'Angle, Mt 1st ascs. from, 75 169 Blanc', 75 95 Chickar Zorn: 2nd asc., 74204 'Pointe Heh~ne', 77 61 Chicon III: 1st asc., 79 258 Chrystal, 1.: Chien, Rocher du: 87 135 'The Oberreintal', 91122 Chile: notes & new climbs: Chugach Range: ascs. in, 74241 74273 84241 Chulu East: 75223 85229 Alpine Club asc. of, 87 196 76247 86234 Chulu Peak: expedition to, art. with 78251 87226 map, 9097 79258 88209' Churen Himal: Italian attempt, 81249 89227 75196 82224 90238 1st & other ascs., 76 228 Triennial report 1971-3, 79233 central peak, 1st & 2nd ascs., travels in the Puna de Atacama, 77107 art. with maps & photos, 1st asc. of W peak, 77 109 90176-83 ill. 77 106, 108, 109 Chilpariti (Peru): asc., 74 267 Cilo Dag: ascs. in, 75 156 Chimborazo: Citadel, Alaska: 1st asc. by N ridge, 74247 1st asc. of E buttress, 83 241 GENERAL INDEX 15 Civetta: Torre Trieste by Cassin- Climbing walls: 80 278 Ratti route, 74 179 Clinch, N.: his book: by the Aste-Susatti route, 75 146 A Walk in the Sky, 89249 Clarbrough, M.: 'Nevado Clothing: design & materials for Chopicalqui, mountain wear, 86 138 SE ridge', 75 13 Clough, I.S.: 'A flying visit to the Clarence Island (Antarctica): asc. Slovak High Tatra', 7495 of highest peak on, 76 251; 77 205 death, 75285; 7632 Clark, G.: 'Himalayan Sojourn', obit. & port., 76324; 77295 78 38 Clubs: notes on various Clark, J.F.G.: obit. & port., 75331 mountaineering, 74360-4; fatal accident to, 76337 75290-3; 76293 Clark, R.W.: 'Play up, play up and Cohen, G.: 'A Short Walk in the play the game!', 81 160 Pilgun Gad', 8979 his books: The Alps, 79250 Cohen, V.D.: obit. 90285 Men, Myths and Mountains, 83259 Coleman, M.: Clarke, A.B.: his book: 'Les Courtes Solo', 80 141 Rock Climbing, 86257 Collins, Hilary: 'The Snow Clarke, c.: 'The Kishtwar Himalaya Mountains of Irian Jaya', 85 118 Expedition 1971',77164 Collister, R.: 'The first ascent of Swargarohini', 'Parbati South 1973', 79 121 80 195 'The Hidden Valley', 79 189 his books: (with C. Bonington) 'Grands Charmoz in Winter', 81 65 Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge, 'A Summer in Gilgit 1975', Pt.I 89 237 82 158; Pt.II 83 64 (with A. Salkeld, editors) Light- 'Kishtwar from the other side', weight Expeditions to the Great 83 206 Ranges, 90 275 'Small expeditions in the Clarke, M.N.: obit. 83268 Himalaya', 84166 Cleare, J.: '', 76 169 'Adventure versus the mountain', 'Thirteen nations on Mount 89 123 Everest', 779 Collomb, R.G.: 'Sea Stacks', 79 47 'Corsica Mountains', 87 100 'Ruwenzori', 82 12; colour his books: Selected Climbs in the photos 8216-17 Bernese Alps, 74379 'Ski Mountaineering in China. The Graians East, Zermatt & District, Ascent of Mustagh Ata', 88 29 75 314 his books: Mountains, 81 228; Bernese Alps West, 76317 83263 Corsica Mountains, 88249 Collins Guide to Mountains & Picos de Europa, 89 255 Mountaineering, 85 250 Collon, Mt: Mountaineering, 86259 by central ridge of N face, 75 141 Cliff, P.: 'British Alpine Ski Collon, Petit Mt: Traverse 1972', 78 13 by N face of W peak, 75 141 Climatology: see Science Notes Colombel, Christine de: her book: Climbers: main German & Austrian Voix de Femmes au K2, 90274 since 1930, 7447 Colombia: triennial report 1971-3, analytical art. 77 96 79 228; 82 220 Playgrounds - Europe - a series of new climbs, 84237; 85229; 89226 short reports: see Special Central Cordillera of, 82 49 Districts p. 63. mountaineering bibliography, Climbing: future of British in the 82 55 1970's, art. 78 89 : geological techniques at high altitude, 79246 features incl. Grand Canyon, psychological aspects of advanced art. with photos & diagrams, rock, 82 88 87 121 16 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Columbia, Mt: Consolation Peak: by N face & N ridge, 76240 ascs., 76 225; 79 22, 27 Combin de Valsorey: Contamine, A.: obit. & port., 91 272 by NW face, 76 200 Conversions, metric: 76 285 Commando Peak (Ellesmere Island): Conway, W.M.: 1st asc., 79 176 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 172 Communism, Peak: Conway's Ogre: attempt, 86 191 1st asc. by S face, 7425 Cook, Mt: ascs., 74217; 75204; parachute landings on, 74349 79256; 8255 climbing routes on, 78 174-5 1st by Caroline face, 76 238 information in book: Sur Ie Toif climbing history, 82 60; du Monde, 84259 ill. 8259, 61 Competition: attempted in 1882, 87 159 climbing, in the USSR, 80 90 Cook, R.: obit. 92285 in climbing, art. 83 112-4 Coolidge, W.A.B.: note on, 84254 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 170 Compton, E.T.: exhibition of his Cooper, W. Heaton: his books: pictures, 74 341 The Hills of Lakeland, 90 260 book of his paintings: Maler und Mountain Painter - An Bergsteiger zwischen Fels und Autobiography, 90269 Firn, 88227 Cordier, P.: his book: Condoriri Norte: Les Pre-Alpes du Sud, 88 239 1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221 Cornwall: Confin, Fuorcla del: crossed, 7484 sea cliff climbing, art. 87 67 Connelly, Julie: Corsica: her book: (with E. Brook) The ascs. in, 74 180; 75 147; 78 144 Windhorse, 92 273 art. with map & photos, 87 100 Connor, T.: 'Triennial Report 1969- guidebook to, 92 272 71 North America', 77 229 Coupe, S.: his book: En Chartreuse additional notes 1971, 77250 et Vercors, 87256 'Corsica', 78 144 Courtes, Les: by NE spur, 74 176 'Triennial Report 1972-74North winter asc. by N face, 7823 America', 80 235 solo asc., 80 143 'Mountain Winds', 8181 Couture, B.: 'Mountain parachute- 'Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux jumping', 76 99 Claires', 81 215 Cox, A.D.M.: as President of Alpine 'Equipment and Technique 1975', Club, Valedictory address, 79 1 81252 'Early years', 85 89 'Regional Notes 1976', 82 233 Craig, M.: 'Mont Ventoux', 83 128 'Equipment and Technique 1976', 'Dent Blanche', 87 9 82247 Craig, R.W.: his book: Storm and 'Regional Notes 1977', 83233 Sorrow in the High Pamirs, 80261 'Equipment and Technique 1977', : 17th century, 75 277 83248 early use of, 76287 'Regional Notes 1978', 84220 15th century, 77 269 'Equipment and Technique 1978', introduction of strapless, 85 236 84244 Cranfield, Ingrid: her book: 'Science Notes 1978', 84246 The Challengers, 82 263 (with E. Pyatt) 'Science Notes Crepin, F.R.: obit. 92295 1979', 85 238 : accidents, 86 184; 87 28 'Equipment and Technique 1980', Crew, P.: his book: Encyclopaedic 86237 Dictionary of Mountaineering, 'Regional Notes 1980', 86 219 74370 'Science Notes 1980', 86 238 'Science Notes 1981', 87 227 'Science Notes 1982', 88 221 GENERAL INDEX 17 Crocket, K.: Dangar, D.F.O.: 'The highest 'Scotland 1981-83', 89 216 mountains 1968-77', 84 29 'Scottish Winter Notes 1983-4', 'A record of the First Ascents of 90 243 the Fifty Highest Mountains', 'Winter climbing on Beinn an 89184 Dothaidh', 91 129 Daniells, T.: his book: 'Scottish Winter 1984-5', 91 221 Southern Sandstone, 88241 'Scottish Winter 1985-6', 92 229 Darrahe Qalat: climbs in, 82 83-5 his book: Ben Nevis, 92267 Darvill, Jm., F.T.: his book: Croix de Provence: Mountaineering Medicine, 74378 rock-, 80 189-91 Darwin, Cerro: asc. of true, & Crombie, T.: obit. 90 279 Shipton's renamed, 79260 Crooked Finger (Kishtwar): Darwin, c.: his book: The asc., 75190 Illustrated Origin of , Croucher, N.: his books: 85256 High Hopes, 83261 Dauphine: A Man and his Mountains, 90276 1971 British ascs. in, 77 235 Cruz, M.: his book: Pre de Madame Carle - origins of Die Schneeberge Ecuadors, 90 273 name, 85 243 Crystals: natural & synthetic, ice climbs in, art. 87 180 art. 7898 new climbs, 87 208 Cuernos Norte: 1st asc., 78 198 Davies, c.: 'Saussois', 77 183 Culbert, R.: 'The Chief', 80 105 Davis, c.J.: obit. 88256 Cumiana, Denti di: Dawson, Dr P.: (with Dr J. Uhrig) rock climbs near Turin, 87 137 'Sherpas & sickness', 89 80 Cunningham, J.: (with W. March) Day, M.W.H.: 'New Ice Climbing Techniques and 'Tirich Mir 1969', 75 79 Equipment', 77 75 'Annapurna - N face route', 76 89 Curran, J.: '... every advantage that the wit of 'Cordillera Apolobamba', 91 135 man can devise', 79 246 his book: Trango, the Nameless 'Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China', Tower, 85 254 87117 Cuthbertson, D.: his guide: Creag Deadman: Dubh and Craig-a-Barns, 89254 construction & uses of, 74 327 Cyprus: Deborah, Mt: 1st asc. of N face, ill. note on the mountains of, 76204 art. 8350 Czechoslovakia: colour photos, 83 between 24 & 25 sandstone rocks in, 78 116 Deelen, F.A.J.: death, 77272 Della Beffa, F.: (with L. Gasparini) DADSON, R.S.: obit. 92295 'Grigna', 83 106 Daffern, A.: his book: Avalanche Demavend: asc., 75 158 Safety for Skiers & Climbers, attempt, 78 39 89242 Dent Blanche: Daintar Pass: crossed, 76 166 history of, 879-19, 164-6 Dakura, Peak 29: attempted, 75 199 O.G. Jones killed on, 1899, possible 1st ascs., 76 229; 85 223; 8716-17 89185 Dental: Dalmatian Coast: climbs, 81 203 emergencies in the mountains, Damesme, M.: (with T. de Lepiney) 8246 'The early years of the Groupe de Deoban: ascs. of Pt. 21,390ft., Haute Montagne', 75 109 74228,229 Dan Beard, Mt: summit reached, Deo Tibba: asc. & ski descent, 8065 75 193 ill. also showing Mt McKinley, 1st asc. by N ridge & 1st traverse, 8063 7738 ascs., 79 22, 27 18 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Derbyshire: new climbs, 80275 Diemberger, K.: Desio, M.: his book: his books; Tra Zero e Ottomila, K2, Verso il Cielo, 89 247 76311 Desmaison, R.: his book: Summits and Secrets, 77 276 Total Alpinism, 89245; 90261 Dilworth, Kate: 'Cordillera Desor, E.: 'First ascent of the Carabaya Expedition 1971', Galenstock', 87 58 77211 Devies, L.: his book (with others): Dingle, G.:his books: Le Massif des Ecrins Vol I, 75313 Wall of Shadows, 84259 obit. & port., 86 264 (with Peter Hillary) First across Devil's Paw: the Roof of the World, 89240 1st asc. of S couloir, 83242 Dir Gol Zorn: asc., 75 166; 79 201 Devil's Thumb: 3rd asc., 77251 Little, 1st asc., 75 166 Devonshire, Georgiana Duchess of: Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1st British 89141 asc. by N face direct, 76 105, 201 Dewison, A.J.: death, 79255,279 Distaghil Sar: obit. 80301 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Dhampus Pass: ascs. above, 79 194 Djurdjura Mts: ascs. in, 77 243 Dharmsura (White Sail): Doake, e.S.M.: 3rd asc., 76 225 'Ice on the Move', 82 65 Dhaulagiri: book on American Dodds, D.A.: his book: A Cradle of expeditions of 1964 & 1973, Rivers - the Natal , 82262 82262 DI: American attempt, 75 197 Dogs: use in search & rescue, 74309 2nd asc., 76 228 attitude towards, 81 258 3rd asc., 79 255 Doldenhorn: by N face, 74 176 Spanish asc., 85 190 asc., 79203 Yugoslavian, 1st asc. by S face, Dole, H.W.: death, 79270 88182 Dolent, Col: 1st asc. in 1878, 83 217 DII: 1st asc., 77 168 Dolomites: paintings of, 74 148 DIll: 1st & 2nd ascs., 79255; notes, 74 179; 77 242; 78 233 80198 Italian edition of 1864 British DIV: Austrian attempt, 75 196 travel book, 88 245 Japanese attempts, 76228; guide books to: Via Ferrata 78241 88 248; Brenta Dolomites Austrian & British attempts, 88249 79 255 1st & 2nd ascs. by Dome de Rochefort: 1st asc., 86218 Japanese, 81 241 Donaldson, J.e.: his book: DV: Japanese attempts, 77 248 Munro's Tables, 80291 Japanese asc., 81 242 Donkin, W.: death, 75285 DVI: 1st & 2nd ascs. by Japanese, Douglas, T.: his place in Canadian 76 228; Japanese asc., 78 241 mountaineering, 78 1 Dibibokri Pyramid: 1st asc., 85 117 Drakensberg: description & climbing Dickinson, L.: history, art. 78 27; 87 110 'Filming on the Nordwand', 77 144 notes, 87 219 films: Everest Unmasked - the first Drasdo, H.: ascent without oxygen, 85255 'Margins of Safety', 74 159 Sailing above the Alps, 85 256 Dravers, M.: 'The Opening of Eiger, 89 257 Ladakh - five years on', 85 129 his book: Filming the Impossible, Dreyfus, P.: his book: 88233 Sylvain Saudan, 76 303 Dickson, B.T.: obit. 82271 Droites, Les: Diemberger, K.: 'Under the Spell of winter attempt by N face, 78 8 K2 and Gasherbrum', 89 16 Droyer, J.e.: ' - some 'A Sortie on Broad Peak', 90 54 ideas for a more rigorous conception', 83 144 GENERAL INDEX 19 Dru, Aig. du: Echevarria, E.: 'Triennial Report Dru Petit: by Bonatti pillar, 1971-3The Andes', 79228 74175 'The Central Cordillera of 2nd solo (British) asc. of Bonatti Colombia', 82 49 pillar, 75 140 'Events and Trends 1974-6The by SW pillar, 76 194 Andes', 82219 1st solo asc. by N face, 76 194 'The Cordillera Blanca of Peru as Dru Grand: S pillar, 2nd British a national park', 85 200 asc. by Bastien-Contamine 'Legends of the High Andes', route, 75 140 8885 1st asc. in 1878, 83 217 'South America 1982', 88 208 Drummond, P.: 'South America 1983', 89 224 'Bolivia's Royal Range', 90 172 'South America 1984', 90 237 Du Toits Peak: N by NW route on, 'South America 1985', 91 218 7794 'Early British Ascents in the Duff, D.: obit. 75341 Andes', 92 61 Duff, M.: 'Riders of the Storm - The 'South America 1986', 92 226 West Ridge of Thamserku', Ecuador: 8947 triennial report 1971-3, 79229 'The Second Ascent of the events & trends 1974-6, 82 220 Mustagh Tower', 90 74 Edmundson, D.: obit. & port., 'A Dangerous Day', 91 76 85260 'The Other Side of the ', Education: and mountains, art. 9289 86201 Duffield, D.B.: Edwards, H.: 'A Grand High Level Route', his book: (with 1. Spring) 100 8741 Hikes in the Alps, 85252 Dunagiri: new route, 81 241 Egeler, Prof Dr C.G.: obit. 89273 asc. by SE spur, 82 23, ill. 82 21 Eiger: an asc. in 1883, 86 116 1st asc. of N face, 83 238 attempt in 1st Alpine season, Dunn, B.J.: 8732 'Mountaineering ropes', 84 43 Eiger, North Wall: events leading to Dunsheath, Joyce: obit. 84266 1st asc., art. 7447, ill. 74 52 Duphao Jot: 1st asc., 75 40 accident on, 74 67 2nd asc., 7925,27 new routes on, 74 177, 75 143 Durand, Col de Fenetre du: crossed, 3rd British asc., 75 143 7490 various ascs., 76 196-8; 90 140-4 Dutton, G.J.F.: his book: attempt by Lauper route, 77 143 The Ridiculous Mountains, 90277 filming on, 77 144 Dyhrenfurth, Dr G.O.: obit. 81268 winter asc., art. 81 48 film: Eiger Sanction reviewed, EALES, C.M.D.: obit. 89258 81267 Earle, J.: review of TV film of 1st solo 'Tierra del Fuego 1979', 85 141 British asc., 89 257 his book: The Springs of ref. to in art. 92 165 Enchantment, 86253 Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld: Earthquakes: notes, 80 279-80 problem of asc., 75 239 East Africa: new climbs, 82 235 1st asc., 76 250 Eastern Cape: events & trends El Gran Trono Blanco: 82 102 1974-76, 82 230 Elbruz: comments on 1st asc. in Eastwood, F.: (with R. Crossley) 1829, 78265 'Climbing in ', 85 69 summit reached, 86 129 Ebnefluh: NW face, 1st British asc. Elbsandsteingebirge: by Aschenbrenner-Mariner route, climbing in, 83 140 75143 Elburz Mts: expedition to, 75 157 20 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Electrical phenomena: recent Evans, R.B.: his book: Scrambles in developments, 82253; 83 250 the Lake District, 88 248 Elephant Island: Joint Services Everest, Mt: expedition to, 76251; 77204 and personalities (study on 1963 map 77 207 American expedition), art. Ellesmere Island: 74101 expedition to, 79 174 Japanese ascs. & attempts, 75 199; Elliott, Sir c.A.: 76231; 79255; 86226; 87223 obit. 79 280; 80 295 preparations for 1921 expedition, Elliott, F.: art. 7643 'Climbing in Namibia', 84 113 international expedition 1971, art. Ellis, c.: 779 'Gliding and Mountains', 79 91 reporter's view of, art. 77 116 Ellis, D.: 'Triennial report 1970-2 attempt by SW face, 78 242 British Isles', 78 220 Mallory & Irvine's last climb, obit. 82271 comment, 78 266 Ellsworth Mts: 89 97 Italian asc., 79 255 Elwood, H.: height of, 80 285 'The Taurus Mountains', 76 119 British SW face expedition 1975, Enderlin, F.: guide, 90201 art. 81 3 English Lake District: Jackdaw publication: The ascent of climbing in, art. 82 42 Mt Everest, 81 266 Equipment and Technique: notes: Ski-ing down Mt Everest - a 74315 81252 television film, 81 267 75 272 82 148, 247 accident to French expedition, 76274 83248 8230 77265 84 244 British-Nepalese army expedition, 78255 85235 1976 asc., 82 239 79265 86237 American Bicentennial expedition, 80277 asc., 82239 Erebus, Mt: asc., 74239 native name of, 82 258 Erosion in mountains: art. 83 198 protection from large expeditions, Eryl Pardoe Memorial Hut: comment, 82 258 note on, 78249 stamps, covers & cachets, art. Escudier, J.: his book: 84 53 L'Aneto et les Hommes, 84261 twenty-fifth anniversary of 1st asc., Estcourt, N.: obit. 84 267 84250 Ethiopia: note, 74 182 Yugoslavian asc. by W ridge, Polish expedition to, 75 149 85223 Etna, Mt: German asc. by S Col, 85 223 1971 eruption of, 77 66; 78 137; 1st winter asc. by Polish map, 78 138 expedition, 86 225; art. 89 50 1979 eruption of, 85 238 solo ascs., 86 226 Etrier: early application of the book: The Unclimbed Ridge, principle, 76 278 89237 Europe: new guide books, 80258-9 book on Chinese asc., 89 249 climbers' playgrounds, art. book on geology, flora etc. 89250 84 139-144 N face - a doctor's view, art. see also Area Notes in Alpine 90 110 Journals book on Russian expedition 1982, Evans, c.: as President of Alpine 90 262 Club, Valedictory address, 767 Russian asc. by W ridge 1984, art. Evans, H.: 90113 his book: (with others) We learned Seligmann Harris expedition to to ski, 81 263 NE ridge, 92 92 GENERAL INDEX 21 Everest, Mt: Faur, Freda du: her book: books: Everest the Unclimbed The Conquest of Mt Cook and Ridge, 92 262 other climbs, 84 262 The Everest Years: A Climber's Faux, R.: 'Everest NE Ridge - The Life, 92266 Seligmann Harris Expedition', Everest Grand Circle, 92267 9292 The Windhorse, 92273 his books: High Ambition, a biog. climbing guidebook, 92 277 of R. Messner, 88 245 Everest, Mt, Foundation: notes: Everest - Goddess of the Wind, 1980-81, 87238-44 86257 1981-82, 88212-16 (with J. Fleming) Soldiers on 1982-83, 89 188-90 Everest, 83 260 1983-84, 90 247-50 Fawcett, R.: 1984-85, 91 227-30 extreme rockclimber, 83227-31 1985-86, 92 238-43 Fedden, H.R.R.: General guidelines & notes for 'Pindos range: Timfi massif', 78 25 expeditions, 89 200-6 'Peru: Cordillera Vileabamba Expedition medicine: planning guide, 1971',7883 90274 obit. 83268 Expeditions: small, art. 82 21 Ferber, Peggy: her book (editor): small, proceedings of seminar on Mountaineering - the Freedom planning, 88 246 of the Hills, 86 260 Advisory Centre, 88 286 Ferenski, J.: (with K. Glasek) Lightweight, book, 90 275 'Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak', 82 129 F., K.C.: 'Climbers', 7796 Ferro, Pizzi del: Fabrics: by N faces of pillars, 75 143 for mountain clothing, 86 140 Fex-Scerscen, Fuorcla: Fafler Alp: 50 years ago, 86 190 crossed, 78 139 Fairley, J.: Fiala, I.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 87237 his book: Makalu 1976, 84263 editorials: 'To a Louse', 899 Fiction: in mountaineering 'Blanks on the Map', 909 literature, art. 85 121 Fairweather, Mt: 3rd asc., 74241 Field, E.S.: death, 75285 Falak Sar: 3rd asc., 74 193 Fiero, Cerro: asc., 75225 from N, 76 218 Films: Falling, Technique of: art. 83 48 Matterhorn, North Face, 82265 Fanshawe, A.: 'Walking Conway's Morte d'un Guide, 82 265 Great White Roof' - the first Finch, G.I.: death, 76291 traverse of Chogolisa, 9274 obit. & port., 77287; 78283 Fantin, M.: his books: Finlaison, J.: early Alpinist, 8713 Montagne Di Groenlandia, 75 302 : winter asc., 89 129 Alpinismo 1taliano nel Mondo, Finzi, N.S.: obit., note on, 74392 79248 Fiorentina, Sezione (C.A.I.): Himalaja e Karakorum, 85 250 centenary book, 75 313 Le Ande, 86 255 Firn und Eis der Schweizer Alpen: obit. 86262 book on Swiss , 82 263 Farr, M.: his book: First Ascents of the Fifty Highest The Darkness Beckons, 86 255 Mountains: listed, 89 184-6 Farrar, J.P.: Fischesser, B.: his book: Editor of Alpine Journal, 80120-7 La Vie de la Montagne, 89246 Fatti, P.: Fisher, J.: death, 77272 'The E ridge of San Lorenzo', Fishwick, c.: his paintings of the 9248 Dolomites, 74 148 22 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Fitzgerald, K.: 'The other side of the France: climbing rocks in NW, hill', 81 175 78117 intro. to 'In Memoriam', 82 265 rock-climbing in, 8775-8, 135-7 'Mr Sherlock Holmes as rock- guides to non-mountain climbing climber and all-round sites, 88 242, 245 mountaineer', 83 99 Franco, J.A.: death, 77272 'Mountains in the Strand', 84 144 obit. 78281 'Whatever happened to Franconian Jura: climbing in, 83 139 mountaineering', 86 35 Franczuk, J.: death, 7724 Fitzroy: 3rd asc. and 1st by SW Frank, D.: his book: buttress, 74 131, 274 Traumland Nepal, 82264 attempts, 75 234; 79 259 Fraser, e.: his books: E pillar, ill. 84 116 L'Enigma Delle Valanghe, 76311 Fleming, J.: 'The Army A valanche and Snow Safety, Mountaineering Association 84260 Himachal Pradesh Expedition Fraser, S.: 'A Himalayan Pass in 1973', 7921 winter - Tashi Lapcha La', 'Nuptse 1975', 81 107 8696 his book: (with R. Faux) Soldiers 'The exploration of the Antarctic on Everest, 83 260 Peninsula', 8997 Fleming, R. & L.: their book: 'Puna de Atacama, Chile', 90 177 Kathmandu Valley, 85252 'Mountains of the Snow Leopard', Fletschhorn: 1st British asc. by N 9165 face, 76 199 Frass, H.: his book: Dolomites - asc., 7968 Mountains of Magic, 83264 Flower, R.: his book: The Story of Frattero Zorn (Pechus Glacier): Ski-ing & other winter sports, 1st asc., 74 217 83261 Frazier, e.: Fluchthorn: ski asc., 75 128 his book: (with D. Secreast) Fontainebleau: climbing area, 85 208 Adventuring in the Andes, Fontanet, J.e.: his book: 91252 La Montagne, 76310 Free-climbing: Foot, A.E.: obit. 74395 ethics of, art. 83 144 Fora, Piz: asc., 78 139 Freeman, G.: 'Ski-mountaineering in Foraker, Mt: 4th asc., 74240 the Eastern Alps', 85 176 central spur, 1st asc. of S face, French Alpine Club: centenary, 83241 79271 Forbes, Mt: 1st winter asc., 77 251 Freshfield, D.W.: Fordham, D.: 'Triennial Report 1973-5 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 168 Greenland', 81 206 Frey, W.: his book: Zwischen 'To the Place of Graves', 89 108 Munjan und Bashgal Pt./I, 'Greenland 1983', 89 222 74380 (with R. Hoare) 'Failure on 'Climbing in the Swabian Alps in Forel', 90 161 SW Germany', 80 211 'Arctic 1984-5', 91 213 Friends: rock climbing device, 85 235 Forster, R.P.: obit. 79281 Friga, Mt: 1st asc. of W face, 83 246 Foster, J.: 'An 18th century Swiss ill. 83 244-5 Journey', 86 57 Frostbite: Fourche, La: story, 90 127 treatment of, 74 347; 76 70 Fowler, M.: information on, 87 234 'Games in a private world', 87 67 Friindenhorn : Fowler, Mick: 'Bojohagar', 9077 note re NW ridge, 75 142 Fraenkel, P.: his book: asc., 79203 Overland, 82261 Fiihrerbiicher: in the Alpine Club Library, 76 287 GENERAL INDEX 23 Fujii, M.: Gasherbrum II: summit reached by 'Kanjut Sar West Face', 88 179 Chilean expedition 1979, Fuorikante: struck by lightning in 85153,231 the Badile, 90 145 art. 89 16 Furchetta: by N face (Solleder- Gasherbrum III: Scottish expedition Wiessner route), 76202 to, 1985, art. with photos, 91 41 Furka Tunnel: opened, 87 235 Gasherbrum V: 1st asc. by Japanese Furse, C.: his book: expedition 1978, 85 222 Elephant Island, 87 255 Gasherbrum Group: Fyffe, A.: 1st ascs. listed, 89 184-5 'From Zero to Astronomy', 80 185 Gasparini, L.: (with F. Della Beffa) his book: (with A. Nisbet) 'Grigna', 83 106 Climbers Guide to the Gattlen, A.: Cairngorms, 91 260 his book: (with others) Das Matterhorn im Bild, 85 253 GAETA (): Gaulis, L.: sea cliff climbing, 84 139 his book: (with R. Creux) Swiss Gaetani, L.: 'Expedition to the hotel pioneers, 84 259 Millpo Group (Peru)', 81 63 Gaurishankar: 1st asc. of main Gajewski, J.W.: 'Poland', 90245 summit, 85 223; 86 39 Galenstock: 1st asc. of S summit, 86 46 1st asc. (1884), art. 8758 Gavamie, Cirque de: Gallas, F.E.: his book: climbing in, art. 81 55 Land Search and Rescue, 89 252 ski-ing, 86 76 Ganesh II: climbed, 9073 Geddes, M.G.: obit. 91286 Ganga Puma: Gele de Durand, Mt: by N face, by Sanctuary W ridge, 77249 74176 Gangchentak, Bhutan: ill. 83 189 Geniskaya: Gangotri: by new route on N face, 7839 asc. of Pt. 19,690ft., 74228 Geology: new findings in, 8043; 2nd & 3rd ascs. of Gangotri III, 83251 75 194 Geophysical terms: glossary of, 80 62 1st asc. of un-named peak, 75 195 George, H.B.: views on, art. with photos, 91 57 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79166-7 Gaping Gill: 80 110-8 George, D.: his book: In the Deserts Garagai: natural rock tunnel in of this Earth, 85 255 Provence, 80 192 Geothermal energy: 84 248 Garhwal: notes & new climbs: Gerlachovsky (Tatra): asc., 74 98 74228 83238 Ghochkar Sar: 2nd asc., 74 216 78240 84229 Ghul Lasht Zorn: 82238 85222 asc. of Speak, 78 183 climbing in, art. 82 168 E peak by S ridge, 78 183 travels in (art. 'In the steps of Ghustung North: 4th asc., 75 22 Shipton'), 84 154 Gibson, J.: 'An introduction to expedition to, art. 90 100 Mountains',91179 Alpine Club meet 1986, 9285 Gifford, N.: his book: Expeditions see also Special Districts p. 72. & Exploration, 89240 Garmo Peak: recovery of note left Gigantopithecus: 80 104 in 1962, 75 162 Gilbert, L.: Garobbio, A.: 'Peter Botte's Mountain', 78 161 his book (editor): Il Grande Libro 'Before Everest', 81 74 delle Montagne, 82261 Gilbert, R.: Garrod, Marjorie: obit. 87262 'Schoolboys on Kolahoi', 83 174 : his books: Memorable Munros, SW ridge, 1st asc., 83 237 83 263; 89 252 24 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Gilbert, R.: Gouter hut: best route to, 76 192 Young Explorers, 86 258 Graham, Bob, round: Lake District Mountaineering for All, 88 250 fell running record, 81 41 (with K. Wilson) compilers of : history, 82 133-5 book: Classic Walks, 88234 asc. & traverse, 82 137-8 Gilgit: a summer in, art. with map, Grand Canyon: 87 122-6 82158; 8364 Grant, Lt.Col. R.H.: obit. 87263 problems with porters, 82 162-4 Gray, D.: poems, 7435, 123; 75282; Gill, M.: his book: 9086; 92 84 Mountain Midsummer, 75 304 'The Himalayan Ethic', 76 156 Gillette, N.: 'The future of British climbing in his book: (with J. Reynolds) the 1970's', 78 89 Everest Grand Circle, 92269 'Some psychological aspects of Gillman, P.: his book: advanced rock climbing', 82 88 Fitness on Foot, 85 254 'Climbing and competition', 83112 Gizycki, P. von: 'The Munich 'Competition Climbing', 91 198 Karakoram expedition 1970', his book: Rope Boy, 76299 76186 Greece: (with K. Schreckenback) guidebook to mountains, 88 244 'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198 climbing in, art. 92 136 Glaciers: guidebook notes, 92 250 advance & retreat of Alpine, 7975 Green, W.S.: his book: study of Cordilleran, 79 272 High Alps of New Zealand, 82 264 movement of, art. 82 65 Greene, R.: his book: an early view of, 86 65-8 Moments of Being, 80290 variations & volcanic eruptions, obit. 88280 87228 Greenland: notes & climbs: see also Science Notes 74276 79260 Glasek, K.: (with J. Ferenski) 75237 80271 'Victory & Tragedy on Broad 76249 89222 Peak', 82 129 77254 Gleckstein hut: 86 118-9 asc. of Majorteqe, 80203 'Gliding and mountains': art. 7991 Triennial Report 1973-5, 81206 Glockner Gross: 1st & 2nd ski climbing in, art. 89 104 descents of Pallavicini Couloir, climing in E, art. 90 161 74349; 7532 expedition to Milne Island, art. winter asc. in 1875, 80231 92189 history of & ascs., art. with M.E.F. notes, 92 238 photos, 82 189 Greenwood, A.: 'Round Gluschaint, Piz: an octogenarian asc. Annapurna - the Climbing of, art. 83 178 Party', 87 193 Gobbi, T.: death, 75285 'AC Garhwal Meet, Sept-Oct obit. & port., 76 226 1986', 9285 Golash Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 Greenwood, B.: Geill: 1st ski descent of whole of E 'Calgary Climber', 75 101 face, 75 33 Greenwood, H.D.: obit. 86263 Goodfellow, B.R.: Greig, A.: his books: Summit Fever obit. & port. 78 285 and Kingdoms of Experience - art. on with photos, 82 199 Everest the Unclimbed Ridge, Goodwin, B.: his book: 92262 Life among the Pathans, 85 253 Greig, J.: 'Silvanus Thompson - Goodwin, Col. E.R.: his Alpine painter', 81 116 reminiscences available, 75 186 Greitbauer, K.: his book: Das Ganze Gore, J.: 'A Calling', 9243 der Alpinen Idee, 81 266 Gore-Tex: assessment of, 84245 Grepon, Aig. de: 1st asc. in 1881, 86214 GENERAL INDEX 25 Grey-Wilson, c.: 'A Botanical Gunnbjorns Fjeld: 2nd asc., 77 255 Expedition to the Wakhan Gurja Himal: 1st asc., 75 17, 196 Corridor', 8897 2nd asc., 78 242 Griffin, A.H.: his book: Gurkha Parbat: 1st asc., 7925,27 Adventuring in Lakeland, 89 246 Gurung, H.: his books: Griffin, L.: 'Wakhan 1977', 84 36 Annapurna to Dhaulagiri, 75310 'Events and trends in the Alps', Vignettes of Nepal, 86254 84 211; 88 185 Gwynne, H.A.: 'Mountaineering in 'The High Atlas', 88 206 Winter; some expeditions in the 'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 88217 Lake District', 84 177 'The Traverse of Kangde Shar', Gyatso, S.: death, 74395 8940 'Twenty four hours in Trevelez', HABELER, P.: his book: Everest- 89116 Impossible Victory, 85 250 'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 89230 Hagen, T.: his book: Report on the (with J. Brailsford) 'Ten Dauphine Geological Survey of Nepal, Ice Climbs', 87 180 75300 'The Sosbun Glacier Region', Haggsta: climbs on, 77 187 9149 Hagshu Kishtwar Himalayan 'The Sierra Nevada de Merida', Expedition 1983: 89 189 9220 Haig, I.: compiler: 'Guidebook Notes', 'A Journey through ', 91231; 92 244 88139 Griffiths, B.W.J.: 'Epicures on the 'A Winter Journey through East Lauper route', 77 139 Nepal', 91 103 Griffon, P.: his book: Randonnees obit. 92306 Pedestres dans Ie Luberon, 90 263 Hall, B.: 'British 1980 Expedition to Grigna: description of, 76 169 Baltoro Kangri', 86 198 art. on Italian climbing, 83 106 'Nepal 1983', 89 197 Grindley, E.: his book: Winter 'Nepal 1984', 90 216 Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glencoe, 'Nepal 1985', 91 203 87257 'Nepal 1986', 92203 Grivola: asc. of N ridge, 81 198 Hall, D.O.W.: death, 78264,281 decapitated, 86 245 Hall, V.: his book: A Scrapbook of Grossen, H.: his book: Snowdonia, 88 238 L'Oberland Bernois, 89250 Hankinson, A.: Grosshorn: 1st British asc. by N 'The Keswick brothers', 7955 face direct, 76 198 his books: Camera on the Crags, Grossman, R.: obit. 81269 81230 Groughs: description of, 80 72 The Mountain Men. An early Guardian, El: asc.;78 81 history of rock climbing in Guha, Mrs S.: death, 76224 North Wales, 83264 Guichon, Francoise: her book: Hannibal: comment on his route in Montagne Photographs 1845-1914, the Alps, 82 257 90 278 Hannigan, c.: Guide Books: 'Winter on Annapurna IV', 88 177 a publisher's comments, 74347 Hanuman Tibba: ascs., 75 193; comment about Italian 76225 guidebooks, 76 203 Hanwell, J.D.: 'Eighty years of review of, 92 275 British caving', 80 111 see list on pp. 75-81 Hara, M.: (with M. Asami) Guides Books (Fiihrerbiicher): 'Makalu - the first ascent by the in archives of Alpine Club, 7876-7 SE ridge', 76 35 Gumachi: summit reached, 86 130 Haramukh: asc., 75 186 Gumbaz-e-Safed: by NW face, Haranboi Zorn: 1st asc., 74 187 75172 26 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Harber, M.; 'The South West Ridge Hastenrath, S.: his book: of Huascaran Sur', 88 157 The Glaciers of Equatorial East obit. 91 285; 92 281 Africa, 91 254 Harding, J.G.R.: 'Antipodean Haston, D.: his books: In High Ventures I. Western Australia', Places, 78 272 7928 The Eiger, 81 264 'Antipodean Ventures II. The novel: Calculated Risk, 85257 Snowy Mountains', 81 100 (with D. Scott) 'South Face of Mt 'Antipodean Ventures III. Mt McKinley 1976', 82 173 Cook', 82 55 a tribute, 83 132 'Mountains of Paradise', 82 133 Hauck, W.: death, 79256 'Cirques and Caftons of the Hauser, G.: his book: (with M. Klotz) Pyrenees', 86 71 Die Hiitten des Deutschen his book: (editor with others) Alpenvereins, 75316 Avalanche, 87 258 Haute Route: on ski, art. 87 20 'Olympian Triad', 92 236 Hauteroche: crag near Paris, 86 157 Hardy, L.; 'The British-Indian Police Hawksley, J.C.: Himalayan Expedition 1986', 92 79 'Guide book on the shelf', 77 160 Harford, D.: 'Oberland Climbs in 'A note on the mountains of the 1880's', 86 115 Sinai', 80145 Hargreaves, A.J.: Hayden, D.E.: his book: 'Women on the Rocks', 88 128 Wordsworth's Walking Tour of 'Small Faces, Big Dreams', 89 126 1790,90264 Harper, A.; his book; Walking Hayes, Mt: Guide to the Tour of Mont 1st asc. of SW face, 83242 Blanc, 85253 Hazard, J. de V.: death, 74350 Harper, F.: 'First ascent of Ali Heath, C.M.: 'The Colombian Ratni Tibba 1969', 75 9 Andes - Nevado del Huila - Harries, J.: 'Optical phenomena for Pico la Cresta', 88 161 Mountaineers', 77 39 Heckmair, A.: 'Main German & Harris, S.L.; his book;'Fire and Ice Austrian Climbs since 1930', - The Cascade Volcanoes, 87250 7447 Harriss, Barbara: his books: My Life as a 'The Theodulpass: a history', 75 87 Mountaineer, 80289 'The Monte Moro Pass and the Bergsteigen fiir Anfanger und Col d'Herens', 76 127 Fortgeschrittene, 82262 'Travel and Trade in the Pennine Hederatus: his book: Alps', 77 175 Cambridge Night-climbing, 76308 Hart, J.L.J.: obit. 92314 Helburn, Margaret: Hart-Davis, D.: his novel: The obit. & port., 86 265 Heights of Rimring, 87 258 Heller, M.: Hartley, H.K.: obit. & port., 92311 his book (editor): The Illustrated Hartley, N.: his book: Encyclopaedia of Ice Skating, The Viking Process, 83 262 85255 Hartog, J.M.: obit. 92301 Helmets: British Standard for Harvard, A.: climbers, 74 319 his book: (with T. Thompson) difficulty of hearing with a Mountains of Storms, 82262 climbing, 75 274 Haskett Smith, W.P.: Hemming, G.: obit. & port., 75342 'The Napes Pinnacle', 81 53 Hensler's Passage: major 'Cragwork in Cumberland', 82 42 breakthrough in caving, 80 115 Hasse, D.: 'Climbing in the Elbsand- Heppenstall, A.; 'Outcrop climbing steingebirge (East Germany)', from Rome', 77 188 83140 'In Terra de Romagne', 78 121 GENERAL INDEX 27 Hepper, c.: 'Stamps,-covers and Himalaya: cachets from Mount Everest', the expedition ethic, 76 156 8453 winds of change in, art. 78 57 'Stamps, covers and cachets from new climbs in Indian, 80264 Mount Everest Part II', 85 110 and power politics, 80 285-6 Hepplewhite, W.: obit. 78289 small expeditions in, art. 84 166 Herbert, H.R.: obit. 88258 winter climbing in, 89 207 Herbert, W.E.: obit. 82266 Indian, historic appraisal, art. with Herens, Col d': history, 76 130 photos, 89 208 Hetman, K.: 'Sandstone rocks in index gazetteer of place names, Czechoslovakia', 78 116 mountains etc., 90 274 Herrligkoffer, Prof. Dr.: 'The East area notes, Nepal 1985, 91203 Pillar of Nanga Parbat', 89 21 M.E.F. notes: 88 213; 89 189; Hervis Peak: 1st asc., 79 17 90 247; 91 228; 92 240 Hewitt, N.: 'The first ascent of Alpine Club Garhwal meet 1986, Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978', 9285 85115 see also Special Districts pp. 69-74 River Mtns: ascs. in, 75 74 Himalayan Club: Hidden Valley, the: golden jubilee, 83255 expedition to, 79 189 Hinchliff Memorial: 84253 Hielo Patagonico del Norte: Hindu Kush: first N-S crossing, 79 143 notes, new climbs & expeditions: High altitude: 74 195 80263 a study of the effects of, 83 158 75165 81239 High-level route: 76210 82237 variation on, 76 200 77 245 83 236-7 Higuchi, H.: 'The first ascent of 78238 84224 Yalung Kang', 8017 79254 85221 Hillary, E.: his books: Nothing maps, 74 196; 77 170 Venture, Nothing Win, 84 262 British expedition to Central, From the Ocean to the Sky, 85 252 1971, 77 170 (with P. Hillary) Two Generations' youth in the, 78266 90276 winter in the, 79 11 Hillary, P.: his books: A Sunny Day Alpine style, 79 111 in the , 88247 Spanish expedition, 79 199 (with G. Dingle) First across the Shkawr and Koh e Nadir Si'ih, Roof of the World, 89240 traverse of & new route, Hillman, P.: 82211; 'La Grande Dixence', 81 78 ill. 82 210, 212 'Big Science in the Pyrenees', Anglo-Polish expedition, 84 137 84201 Hindu Raj: ascs. in, 76218 'The ', 87 121 climbs in the Thui range, 82 115; Hilton-Jones, B.: obit. 76 329 ill. 82 117 Himachal Pradesh: Indo-Japanese Hinings, R.: Ladies expedition 1968, 74 226 'South African Days', 87 109 AMA expedition to, 1973, 79 21 Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 77 249 summary of ascs. by AMA, 79 26 Hjortsberg, W.: his book: Himal Chuli: ascs. of NE Peak, Alp, 80292 76229 Hoare, R.D.: 'Majorteqe (Peak 1st asc. listed, 89 185 BOOm) 1974', 80203 Himalaya: seen from Apollo 7, 75 65 'Karakoram inflation', 83208 rules governing expeditions, Hoare, Rick: 74230-3; 75 199 'Blubber and Boats', 89 104 definition of peak for records, Hoare, Rupert: (with D. Fordham) 75280 'Failure on Forel', 90 161 28 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Hobbs, P.V.: his book: Huagaruncho: Ice Physics, 82261 2nd asc. & traverse, 76 243 Hockenhull, H.K.: obit. 86266 Huallanca, Cordillera: Hodgkin, R.A: poem, 75 70 expedition, 74 253 his book: Reconnaissance on an Huandoy: asc., 82 167 Educational Frontier, 76310 Huandoy Sor: 'Mountains and Education', 86 201 attempts by S face, 74250; 79 139 Hoeman, G.: death, 77 297 ill. 74251; 79 140 Hoeman, J.V.: obit. 75332 1st asc. by S face, 83243 Hogan, J.M.: his book: Impelled Huascanln: into Experiences: the Story of 1st asc. by W arete, 75 131 the Outward Bound Schools, by E face direttissima, 79 39 74372 by SW ridge, 88 160 Hoggar: new routes in, 76 207; Huayhuash, Cordillera: 87216 ascs. by NZ expedition, 74 255 correction re Garet-el-Djenoun, Huber, F.: 'Dhaulagiri 2',77 168 77 243 Hudson, J.: death, 75 343 descriptive art. 79 103; 83 43 Huila, Nevado del: attempt, 75 210 notes, 79227 asc., 76241 Holland, G.S.: Map of Mt Everest height questioned, 82 51 Region (Scale 1:100,000),82261 Humble, B.H.: his book: Holloway, J.T.: obit. 83269 The Cuillins of Skye, 92267 Hopkins, D.: 'Kusum Kanguru, a Hunt, AS.: Lightweight Expedition', 90 105 'Climb High Down Under', 91 133 Hopkirk, P.: his book: Trespassers Hunt, J.: on the Roof of the World, 89248 'Mountaineering and Risk', 86 3 Hornbein, T.F.: his book: 'Round Annapurna - Hamish Everest - the West Ridge, 86 256 Nicol's Group', 87 195 Horniblow, P.J.: 'Protection of the Himalayan 'In the steps of Shipton', 84 154 Environment' - a paper read to Houston, C.S.: 'Long-lasting effects the U.I.A.A Commission, of high altitude climbing. Fact 8857 or fancy?', 83 158 (with D. Gray) 'The 50th his books: (with R.Bates) K2 - the Anniversary Celebration of the Savage Mountain, 85 252 Union Internationale des Going High (the story of man & Associations d' Alpinisme', altitude), 87 252 8855 (editor) High Altitude Physiology his books: Life is Meeting, 85247 Study - Collected Papers, 87 255 My favourite Mountaineering Going Higher, 90 266 Stories, 85 252 Houston, 0.: death, 75 344 Hunter, Mt: attempt, 74244 Howard, T.: his book: Walks and 1st asc. of N face, 83241 Climbs in Romsdal Norway, Hunter, R.: his book: 76315 Walking in France, 88242 'The Mountains of Wadi Rum', Huntford, R.: his book: 91109 Scott and Amundsen, 86256 Howell, I.: Hunza: 'Return to the Alps', 76 105 problems for travellers, 82 158 'After Everest: de-acclimatisation Husbands, A.: climbs in East Africa', 77 80 ' Interlude', 92 163 Howick of Glendale, Lord: Hut statistics: obit. 79281 from , 83 256 Howser, North: by SW face, 76240 Hoyle, F.: ICE AGES: 'On men and mountains', 74 23 in the British Isles. 86240 his book: Ice, 88 245 GENERAL INDEX 29 Ice-axes: weakness of wooden shafts, Ireland: notes, 74 304; 80275 74332-8 mountaineering in, art. 85 162 newall-metal, 76 274 guidebook to rock-climbing in, failures, 85 237 91262 Ice-climbing: new techniques & Irghil M'Goun, Morocco: equipment, 77 75 mountaineering on, art. 843 in N America, history of, 88246 Irvine, A.c.: guide to ice climbs in his diaries published, 85 249 Canadian Rockies, 88244 Irving, F.G.: 'Memories of Arolla Iceland: volcanic activity, 85239 and Fafleralp', 86 188 ski-touring, 86 121 Irving, R.L.G.: obit. & port., 75333 snow & ice climbing, 86 123 Ishak, H.: 'Mountaineering in M.E.F. note, 92 239 Indonesia', 81 35 Ice-: Isherwood, R.J.: 'Direttissima on the date of first use, 74 324; 75 31 Piz Badile', 74 1 Ikerasagssuag Fjord: 'The Dugundugoo', 78 188 climbing opportunities, 89 106 'Lamjung Himal', 80 37 Illampu: 1st asc. by S ridge, 75 222 'Kanjiroba', 83 37 by E face, accident, 78 204 'Buni Zorn', 85 147 Illimani: 1st asc.by N ridge, 75222 Ishinca, Nevado: asc., 7441 Illingworth, R.N.: his book: Ishmurg Valley: Expedition Medicine, 90274 expedition to, 75 177 Inada, S.: Ishpel Dome (Pechus glacier): 'A month on ', 85 193 asc., 74217 Indar Kila: 1st asc., 75 193 Istor-o-Nal: India: an historic appraisal of the 2nd & 1st women's asc., 74 196 Indian Himalaya, 89 208 1st ascs., 75 166 ill. 89 between 208 & 209 amendment of earlier reports, Triennial report 1972-74, 80 239 75168 mountaineering in: by new direct route on S face, 1983-84, 90 226 77245 1985,91206 Italian climbing: 1986, 92208 between the wars, 77 149 Indo-Tibet Border Police: 80239-41 Italy: mountaineering in central, art. Indonesia: mountaineering in, 81 35; 78121 map, 81 36, 37 major mountain groups, 78 122 Indrasan: 2nd asc., 1st by W ridge, Ives, J.D.: art. 7734 his book: (editor with R.G. Barry) 3rd asc., 2nd by W ridge, 7738 Arctic and Alpine Japanese asc., 78240 Environments, 82262 1st & 2nd ascs. by E ridge, 79 21, 27 Infanti, de, S.: his book: JACKSON, J.A.: Daile Ferrate al 6° Grado, 84263 'Sherpas & Skis', 91 101 Ingolfsfjeld: 1st asc., 77 255 'Meconopsis', 91 160 attempt by S face, 79260 Jaeger, N.: obit. & port., 87264 asc. of SW outlier of, 79 260 Jagatsukh: asc., 7922,27 International Directory of Mountain- Jager, F.: death on Manaslu, 7920 eering Clubs and Organizations: James, R.: his book: 85253 Rock climbing in Wales, 76316 Intervisibility: Jannu: 1st asc. of N face, 82 241 explanation of, 77 172 asc. in 1978, 85 77; ills. 85 78, 80 extreme examples of, 79275; 1st asc. listed, 89 185 80284-5 Japan: Iran: 4000 metre peaks in Southern, mountaineering in, 79 128; 81 59 art. 84 187 mountains of, map, 79 130-1 women's lib in reverse, 87 233 a social visit, 87 231 30 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Japanese Journal of Mountain Jones, R.B.: obit. & port., 91 283 Medicine, 88 243 Jones, T.: Japanese Railway Workers Karak- his book: (with G. Milburn) Welsh oram Expedition: 'A first ascent Rock, 92257 of Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m)', Jorasses, Grandes: 84118 1st asc. by N wall in 1935, 74 50 Jardine, M.: 'An Electrifying 1st solo asc. of Walker spur, Experience', 92117 74175 Jarvis, E.C.L.: death, 78 264 Pte. Croz: 1st British asc. by N obit. 79282 face, 75 138 Jatunhuma I: Pte. Helene: 1st asc. by N face, 1st asc. of W face, 89 188 77 61, ill. 77 62 Jean Bernard Cave, Haute Savoie: Journals: review of 1971, 77 283 deepest in world, 87 233 South American Mountain, 86 250 Jeannette, Mt: 1st asc., 74 214 Jouty, S.: Jenkinson, B.: death, 79256 'The history of altitude', 86 90 Jeong-Tai, K.: 'Mountains & Jugoslavia: guidebook to traverse of Mountaineering in South Korea', Siovenian Mts., 88 245 8355 history of climbing in, art. with Jerome, J.: his book: On Mountains photos, 92 182 - thinking about terrain, 85 251 Julian Alps: visit to, & description Jeudwine, W.R.H.: obit. 90281 of, 82 95, ill. , 82 94 Jiazi: attempt, 87 117 Jumars: accident, & safety problems Jirishanca: 1st asc. by W face, 75 8 with, 74307 ill. 75 2, 5 Jiingfraujoch: by SE wall, 79258 Palais de Cristal on, 84252 Jogin I: 1st & 2nd ascs., 76 225 Junction Peak (Dhaula Himal): Jogin III: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76225 asc., 78241 Johchi, University A.c., members Jura: description of, & climbs in, of: 'Patagonian Ice Cap 1971- 78146 72',79237 Jurak, J.: 'Mountains & rocks in John, B.S.: his book: The Ice Age - Czechoslovakia', 8273 past and present, 83262 'The Palava Rocks', 82 143 Johnson, A.: 'Indrasan West ridge Expedition 1971', 77 34 K2: attempt, 82 237 Johnson, B.: Polish expedition to, in 1976, art. his book: (with O. Skjerren) 838 Lyngsalpene, 90263 2nd asc., 83 237 Jones, Barbara: ', an asc. by American expedition in expedition to the Garhwal', 90 100 1978, art. 84 52 Jones, c.: 'Yerupaja, the Amazon British expedition abandoned face: the British-American 1978, 84225 expedition', 74 15 climbed by R. Messner, 85 221 'Fitzroy 1968', 74 131 filming on N face of, 89 18 'The Salathe Wall', 75 25 1st asc. listed, 89 184 his book: Climbing in N America, book review, 89 247 82 260; 85 252 ill. 82 129;83 10; 89 between 16 & 17 Jones, D.: his book: K6: 1st asc., 76 149 Rock Climbing in Britain, 90 272 Kackar: attempt, 86 165 Jones, J.H. Emlyn: as President of Kaghan: expedition to, 78 185, 240 Alpine Club, Valedictory Address, Kailas Parbat: asc., 74 226 889 Kakhari: asc., 74 188 Jones, M.: his book: Kalanka: attempt, 81 74 Canoeing down Everest, 85251 : 3rd asc., 79 254; 80 242 Jones, O.G.: his death on Dent 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Blanche 1899, 87 16-17 GENERAL INDEX 31 Kanai, H.: his book: Index Karakoram: Gazetteer of the Himalaya, 90 274 accident, 83 7 Kangbachen: attempt, 79 255 heights questioned, 83 11 climbed, 80 36 costs of travel in, 83 208 geology of Massif, 8030-31; map, highway opened, 84252 80 28; ill. 80 33, 35 British expedition to Baltoro : Kangri 1980, art. 86 198 1st asc. of W peak, 79 255 International Project, 86 240 heights of local mountains, 79 256 British West Karakoram 2nd asc., 83 240 expedition 1981, 87 132 Polish expedition 1978, art. 85 43 attempt on Thaime Chish, 87 133-5 1st asc. of S summit, 85 48 West of the Baltoro, art. 88 194 1st asc. of central summit, 85 48 maps, 89 76; 90 65, 66, 68 British expedition 1979, art. 8549 ill. 90 between 64 & 65 main summit ascended by new history of climbing in Eastern, art. route, 85 57, 224 9133 Spanish expedition 1978, art. excursions & climbs from the K. 86177 highway, art. 91 46 1st asc. listed, 89 184 Alpine Club meet to, 1985, art. ill. 85 45; 86 181 9153 Kangchungtse (Makalu II): M.E.F. notes, 88 216; 90 249; 1st asc. listed, 89 186 91 229; 92 242 Kangde Hiunchuli: 2nd asc., 78 241 Alpine Club symposium, 92317 Kangde Shar: traverse of, art. 89 40 1st traverse of Chogolisa, art. Kanjiroba Himal: 9274 expedition to, 75 114 see also Special Districts pp. 69-74 1st asc. of highest summit, 76 227 Karatash Peak: climbed, 86 16 1st asc. in, 77 248 Karposhte-Yakhi: asc., 76216 2nd asc. of highest summit, 79 255 ski asc. from W, 77 111 1st asc. of un-named peak, 79 255 Kashmir: notes & new climbs: asc. of highest summit, 82240; 74225 83238 83 42; ill. 83 39, map, 83 38 75186 84225 Kanjut Sar: climbed, 88 180 76219 86225 1st asc. listed, 89 185 77247 87222 Kapadia, H.: 78240 89189 'The Eastern Karakoram', 91 33 82238 'India 1985', 91 206 a walk in, art. 76 222 'India 1986', 92 208 Keay, J.: his books: Karabiner: its in Alpine When Men and Mountains Meet History, 74320 and The Gilgit Game, 85254 Karakol Lakes: 86 12 Keenlyside, F.: Karakoram: notes & new climbs: 'The Heart of the Matter', 78 168 74225 84225 'To Silver Turn'd', 84 157 75185 85221 his book: Peaks and Pioneers, 76219 86224 81232 77246 87241 Keighly, J.H.: (with G. Steele) 'The 79254 88192 functional and design requirements 80263 89212 of clothing 1', 86 138 81239 90222 'The properties and performance 82237 91208 of Mountain Rescue Bags', 83237 92210 88153 expedition to NW, 1970, 76 163 Kekus, N.: Polish expedition 1975, 82 129 'Kalanka, Alpine Style', 88 135 British Ogre expedition 1977, 833 'Annual Leave - Ganesh II South 1st asc. of Ogre, 83 7 Face', 9071 Kellas, A.: 'Rokapi 1974', 80 219 32 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Kelly, H. M.: obit. 86 263 Kilimanjaro: Kelsey, M.R.: his book: Guide to buttress of E face, 75 150 the World's Mountains, 91254 complete S-N traverse, 76 138 Kemp, C.: 'Triennial Report 1971-3. by E face, 76 209 Africa', 79 219 W-E traverse of Kibo & Mawenzi, 'Summers in and around the Swiss 7782 Pre-alps', 84 92 1st asc. of N icefield, 78 166 Kemsley. Freda: obit. 84268 Kibo: new routes on, 78236 Kenai Range: ascs. in, 74240 by Kersten glacier, 82 171-3 Kennedy, Mt (Yukon): glacier recession on, art. 87 54 by N face, 74 242 Kimball, Mt: 5th attempt on, 74 243 Kenya, Mt: notes & new climbs: Kimbrey, J.: 'Joint Services 74182 82235 expedition to Brabant Island', 75149 83236 91139 76208 84223 Kinabalu, Mt: big wall rock climbing 77244 85220 possibilities, 89 190 78235 86223 Kinder Scout: 80260 87218 marathon walks on, 8071-82 81236 King, J.: 'Avalanche on Ben Nevis', Triennial report 1971-73, 79225 86146 1st asc. of Diamond Couloir, King, T.: his book: In the Shadow 7783-5 of the Giants, 88250 1st winter asc. of S ridge, 77 244 King, W.: definition of Grand Traverse of, 'New Zealand 1984-5', 91225 85220 'New Zealand 1985-6', 92 236 1st complete asc. by Diamond Kingman, H.S.: obit. 74392 Couloir, 79 225 Kirstein, W.: Cambridge expedition to, 86 242 'Sixty years off-piste', 75 124 'Through the Ice Window to 'Piz Badile for the over-seventies' Nelion', art. 91 116 7748 M.E.F. note, 92 243 'Once again, Engadine and Kerr, Faye: obit. 88283 Bregaglia', 78 133 Kersten Glacier: 'Three times lucky', 79 65 asc. of Kilimanjaro by, 82 171-3 'One of the geriatric eccentrics', Kesch, Piz: asc., 78 135 81 125 Keswick brothers: art. 79 55 'Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia', 82197 note on the Abrahams, 80 284 'Too much snow on Piz Khandut Valley: ascs. from, 75 177 Gliischaint', 83178 Khanna, yc.: his book: 'Albigna Valley - 1978', 84183 Saser Kangri, 87 255 'Cacciabella', 85 199 Kharkhyra Peaks, Mongolia: ' Danger', 86 183 ref. to & map, 86 104-5 'For how much longer', 87 6 Khergiani, M.: death, 75 344 obit. & port., 89 269 port. 75345 Kishmi Khan: Khinyang Chhish: 1st asc. by SSW buttress, 75 174 1st asc., 77 21; 89 185 Kishtwar: expedition to, art. with ill. 77 25 photos & map, 75 186 Kholi: asc. of Pt. 19,879ft., 74229 British women's expedition to, Khumbu Himal: map of, 74 235 1970, 76223 Khwaja Muhammad Group: 1971 expedition, art. with photos, ascs. in, 75 178 77164 Kilimanjaro: ascs., 74 182; 79225 exploration, art. incl. two new notes, 84 223; 85 221 peaks climbed, 83 206 asc. by blind boys, 74 182 notes & new climbs, 85 223 Mawenzi: 1st asc. by middle British expedition 1979, art. with GENERAL INDEX 33 Kishtwar: Kolahoi: ascs., 74226; 83175 map, 86181 schoolboys expedition to, art. asc. of Kishtwar-Shivling, art. with 83174 photos, 89 34 Kommunizma, Pik: see Communism traverse of Kishtwar-Himalaya Peak with asc. of Peak 6240m, art. Komprej, Irena: 8935; maps, 8936, 38-9 'Aconcagua South Face', 89 157 Klotz, M.: his book: (with G. Hauser) Kongen: Die Hutten der Deutschen 1st asc. by E face direct, 74 150 Alpenvereins, 75 316 Kongur, Mt: expedition to, art. with Knowles, D.: obit. 80304 photos & map, 867 Koblmiiller, E.: 1st asc., 87 224 'The ascent of K6', 76 149 historical background, 88 65 'Huascaran, E face direttissima', 1st asc. listed, 89 185 7939 Korea, South: Kodama, S.: mountaineering in, art. 8355; 'Rakaposhi from the North', map, 8355 86185 expeditions overseas, 83 63 'Bogdo Ola Group Survey', 88 70 Kotgaz-Chhutidum Glacier: Kogan, Claude: 1st asc. of Pt. 5681m, 74 205 climbing career, 83 82-5 Kotgaz glacier: Koh-e-James: 2nd asc., 74215 ascs. from & maps, 74 203, 204-5 Koh-i-Andaval: asc., 74212 Koyo Zorn: correct height, 74216 Koh-i-Bandaka: 1st asc., 74 217 asc. & accident, 74 196 2nd asc., 75 179 attempts, 76 214 Kramarsic, J.: his books: ascs., 79254; 84 139; ill. 84 138 Bibliography of Colorado Koh-i-Bandaka Zeraghan: Mountain Ascents 1863-1976 1st asc., 79 254 Bibliography of Colorado Rock Koh-i-Hevad: 2nd asc., 74213 Climbs and lee Climbs 1863- Koh-i-Jashin: asc., 74213 1976', 90 267 Koh-i-Kesnikhan: asc., 76215 Krawczyk, c.: his book: Koh-i-Khaiik: by N face, 79 111 Mountaineering - A Bibliography Koh-i-Laksh: 1st asc., 74216 of Books in English to 1974, Koh-i-Mina: 83264 now known as Kohe Dusti, 75 179 Kristians glacier: ascs. from, art. Koh-i-Mondi: by N face, 79112 with photos & maps, 74 276 Koh-i-Murchech: Krog, W.: 1st asc. by W ridge, 76 213 'Climbing in Rhodesia', 77 86 Koh-i-Myiani: 2nd asc., 74213 Kuffner, S.: obit. 83 269 Koh-i-Ogaki: asc., 74 195 Kulu: notes, 74 226; 84 225 Koh-i-Stara: asc., 74226 1st asc. of Mukar Beh, 74 58 Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha: 1st asc. of Ali Ratni Tibba, 75 9, 2nd asc., 74 195 193 Kohe Mandaras: 1st asc. of Parvati Peak, 75 56; asc." 84 138; ill. 84 136 map 75 54 Kohe Skhawr: 1st asc. of two rock peaks, Pt. new routes, art. 84 172 5711m & Pt. 5692m, 77 38 Kohistan: ascs., 78240-3; 82 85-7 expeditions, with map, 74 187 Kumar, Col. N.: his books: Kohli, Capt. M.S.: his books: Kangchenjunga - First Ascent from The Himalayas. Playgrounds of the North-East Spur, 85254 the Gods, 89241; 91 257 Nilakantha, the first ascent, 88 243 Trek the Himalayas, 91257 Kunde Hospital, Nepal: cases at, 89 80 34 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Kurczab, J.: Langar: 'Shispare climbed', 80 223 2nd asc. of highest summit, 74 203 'Polish K2 expedition 1976', 838 Langmuir, E.: his books: Kus, A.: 'The Polish Karakoram Mountain Leadership, 75 310 expedition 1969', 76 181 Mountaincraft and leadership, 'The Battle for Khinyang Chhish', 90275 77221 Languedoc limestone: 80 218 (with J. Nyka) 'Note on the Lapuch, K.: history of Polish Alpinism', 'Some extreme ski runs', 7531 78107 Latok Peaks: 'British Alpinists in the Tatra', Latok II: attempted, 83 114 79153 ill. 83 119 1st asc., 83 238 Kusum Kanguru: 1st asc. of NE Latok I: climbed by new route, ridge to E summit, 89 189 85222 expedition, art. with photos & Latok III: 1st asc., 85222 map, 90 105 Latok IV: accident on, 86 194 Kuthi Valley project 1968: 74230 Lauge Koch, Mt: asc., 75 237 Kuzel, de: death, 76 193 Lauterbrunnen Breithorn: Kvandalstind: in winter, 81 48 1st asc. by NE face, 74172 Lauterbrunnen Valley: in the 18th century, 8661-3 LA CHAPELLE, E.R.: his book: Lavaredo, The Cima di: The ABC of A valanche Safety, Cima Grande: by direttissima & 85250 superdirettissima, 74 55 Labande, F. : his books: by Saxonweg, 74 179 100 Sommets, 83262 Cima Ovest: N face, 1st asc. over Grandes Courses, 87 256 the roof, 74 56 Lachenko, c.: 1st British asc. by Rudolf-Baur his book: (with others) Escalades route, 75 59, 146 en Vallee de ['Anglin, 83234 1st asc. (1879), 84 207 Ladakh: travelling in, & topography, Lawrie, R.: obit. & port., 88 260 art. 85 129; maps, 85 131, 135 Le Blond, Mrs Aubrey: Ladies Alpine Club: merger with climbing career, 81 97 Alpine Club, 81 257; 83 89 Leahy, E.P.: Lahul: 'On the Juneau Ice-field', 92 192 1st asc. of Peak 18,977ft., 75 43 Leclerq, B.: his book: La Montagne. Lake District: new climbs, 80275 Bibliographie Belge, 90 263 fell running, art. 81 40 Lee, c.: his book: On Edge - the winter mountaineering in (1892 life and climbs of Henry Barber, art.), 84 177 91246 The Lake Dis~rict Discovered Lee, Dorothy: obit. 88256; 89 260 1810 -1850, catalogue of Leeming, P.: exhibition, 89 252 'Salcantay: SW Face', 9227 Lalana (Bara Shigri): Lefebure, Molly: her book: 1st asc., 76224 Cumberland Heritage, 76309 Lall, J.S.: Legless Climber in Peru: 84 255 his book (editor): The Himalaya, Leith, Hon. E.: obit. & port. 88283 90 262 Lenin, Peak: international meet in Lambley, D.G.: obit. 88279 area of, 75 162; 80 89 Lamjung Himal: 1st asc., 8042 asc. by new route, 75 163 ill. 80 38, 40 Leopold III, King of Belgium: Lampak Group: obit. 89260 ascs. in, 74230; 75 195 Lepidoptera: of the Northern Andes, Lamtrang Lirung: 1st asc., 84 232 ill. art. 89 90 Lancaster, R.: his book: Leppert, Z.: his guidebook: Plant Hunting in Nepal, 87 259 O,l?wen,88 251 GENERAL INDEX 35 Lesniak, E.: (editor) guide book: Logan, H.: his book: Yorkshire Gritstone, 89 255 The Mt Cook Guidebook, 89255 Lester, J.T.: Logan, Mt: climbed, 81 31 'Personality and Everest', 74 101 centennial ridge, 1st asc., 83 242 Levy, H.B.L.: obit. 84268 Logan Mts: ascs. in the Southern, Lewis, J.E.L.: obit. 87265 with map, ill. art. 74 109 Lewis-Lloyd, Emmeline: Logistics for expedition leaders: climbing career, 81 96 problem, 86 244 Lhakpa Tsering: death, 76 229 solution, 87 233 Lhotse: 1st attempt on S Wall, Long distance walks: 79255 Peak District, 8074-9 winter attempt, 81 241 Longacre, J. K. : Polish expedition 1974, 82 28; ill. 'On foot in Nepal', 84 181 8229, 31, 33 Longevity among climbers: 84 255 2nd asc., 83 240 Longland, J.: as President of Alpine 1st asc. listed 89 184 Club, Valedictory Address, 823 attempt on W face, 89 59, 189 Longstaff, T.: advice quoted, 8652 Lhotse Shar: 1st asc., 76 232 Lord, D.: 'The Coming attempt, 77 249 Disintegration of Lightning: effects of, art. 80 173 Mountaineering', 86 32 literature on, 80174 Lorry: to by, 74 327 protection from, 80 180 Lortscher, F.: 'Mawenzi - a complete Ligoncio, Pizzo: 1st British asc. by traverse from S to N', 76 138 WNW face direct, 76 107, 202 'Kilimanjaro - first ascent of the Lines of sight: longest on surface Northern Ice-field', 78 166 of earth, 82 257 'Twenty years of glacier recession Linsbauer, A.: death, 75345 on Kilimanjaro', 87 54 Lisney, S.: 'Dental emergencies in Lost Arrow Chimney: asc., 74 92 the mountains', 8246 Lotschenliicke: crossed on skis, 74 89 Literature, mountaineering: Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mts): 8115-19,175-9 by SE face, 74 242 Litter: in the Alps, 79 272 Lovelock, J.: his book: Littlejohn, P.: A Caving Manual, 87 258 his book: (with M. Harber) Lucas, J.P.: obit. 86262 Pembroke, 87 256 Lucchesi, A.: 'The Calanques', 8521 Livesey, P.: his book: Escalades a Sugiton. St- extreme rock climber, 83 227-32 Cyr, 90265 his books: French Rock Climbs, Lucock, P.: 'The 86220 1976-7', 8343 Rock Climbing, 86 257 Lukan, K.: his book: L1ihirini (Cordillera Real): The Alps and Alpinism, 74367 1st asc. of S face, 89 188 Lung damage: and freezing air, Lloyd, P.: (with C. Putt) a tribute to 87227 H.W. Tilman, 84 132 Lunkho group: 'Twenty fifth anniversary of first photos & maps, 74208-11 ascent of Mt Everest', 84 250 Lunkho-i-Dosare: 1st asc., 74213 as President of Alpine Club, 2nd asc., 74 178 Valedictory Address, 853 Lunkho-i-Hawar: 1st asc. of W & Lobi, R.: W central peaks, 74213; 75 179 his book: (with H. Merrick) The 1st asc. of E & E central peaks, Alps in Colour, 76 306 75179 Loewy, R.: 'Unveiling of the new Lunn, Sir A.: 'The Playground of Bernard Biner Plague at Zermatt Europe 1871 to 1971',77 1 (19 August 1986)', 92 175 obit. 80298 Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 74 169 his book: The Enchanted Lakes, climbing possibilities, 87 52 83261 36 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Lunn, P.: his book: The Guinness MacMillan, J.: his poems: Book of Ski-ing, 89 252 Eye to the Hills, 88247 Lykeri, Mt: climbed, 83 211 McMorrin, I.: Lynam, J.P.O'F.: his book: (with C.W.F. Noyce) 'Mountaineering in Ireland', The World Atlas of 85162 Mountaineering, 75298 his guidebook:'Irish Peaks, 89255 Macquarie, C.: ' of Lyngen Peninsula: mountains of, Mt Deborah', 83 50 8067 Madeira: asc. of Pico Ruivo, 92 263 Lyon: rock climbing near, 87 136 Maden, E.: 'Southern Logan Lyskamm: the 1877 accident, 82217 Mountains 1968', 74 108 Madri dei Camosci, Torre delle: M7 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 75 173 1st asc. by NW face, 76 204 McAndrew, Beatrice M.: obit. Maeder, H.: his book: The 75345 Mountains of Switzerland, climbing career, 82 108-9 75306 MacAndrews, S.: death, 79 259 Mahli-ka-Parbat: asc., 78 186 McArtney, J.: obit. & port., 75 346 Majorteqe: summit reached, 80 207 McClymont, W.G.: death, 76291 Makalu: McDermott, P.: obit. 75346 1st asc. by SE ridge, 7635, 232 Machail: 8935 3rd asc. & 1st by W ridge, 77 249; McInnes, B.: 7844 'Astronomy from Mountains', attempts, 7845; 79255 89173 ascs., 82 240 McInnes, H.: 'British-Soviet 1st ascs., 89 184, 186 Caucasus Expedition 1970', ill. 78 53 76 111 Maladetta: art. 8984 his books: Malana glacier, South: Climb to the Lost World, 80 290 1st ascs. in area, 77 248 Look Behind the Ranges, 85 256 Malatynski, M.: 'Kangchenjunga Scottish Winter Climbs, 89255 South and Central 1978', 85 43 International Mountain Rescue Malawi: climbing in, art. 85 69 Handbook, 90 275 : new climbs & notes, Beyond the Ranges, 90275 83240 Sweep Search, 92270 Mallory, G.L.: biography, 74365 McIntyre, A.: obit. & port., 88 276 Malubiting: attempt, 74 218 his book: (with D. Scott) The 1st asc. of N peak, 75 185 Shishapangma Expedition, various expeditions, 76 180-9 91243 1st asc. of W (highest) peak, McIver, K.: death, 79 256 77 247; 7854; ill. 78 54 McKeith, 'Bugs': obit. 84265 Mammals: MacKenzie, J.R.: his book: Rock of E African Mts, art. 79 179 and Ice Climbs in Skye, 88250 ill. 79 181-3, 186 McKinley, Mt: 2nd asc. by W rib of Man and the mountain environment: S face, 75 206 art. 74133 1st solo & other ascs., 76 239 Mana Parbat (Gangotri): asc., 76225 new route on S face, 82 180-1 Manang: map of Chulu peaks, 90 98 ill. 82 174-5 Manaslu: problems of inexperienced 2nd asc. & 1st by W wall, 77 26; climbers, 82 182-3 ill. 77 27; map, 7728 ref. to in art. 8464-78 3rd asc. & 1st by S face, 78 241; ill. 83 opp. 24; 84 68 7915 MacKinnon, T.D.: accident on, 78241 obit. & port. 87 266 4th asc., 79 255 MacLeod, R.: his book: Japanese Women's asc., 8098 Path of Ghosts, 82262 GENERAL INDEX 37 Manaslu: Mauritius: climbing in, 78 161 accident, 80 99 Mawenzi: see Kilimanjaro 1st asc., 89 184 Mayo, F.e.: obit. 83270 Mandaras Glacier: Mazeaud, P.: his book: Naked before 1st asc. of Peak 141 from, 75 174 the Mountain, 80 253 Manikaren Spires: ascs. in, 7841 Meade, e.: obit. 81 269 description of, 78 43 Mear, R.: 'Kalanka 1974', 8169 1st asc. in, 79 254 Meconopsis: 91 160 Manresa Zorn: ascended, 79201, 25· Medical: problems of high altitude, Many Peaks Mt (Australia): art. 78 153; 83 158 ascended, 79 33 symposium, papers read, 82 257 Maps: indexed under subject research on Mt Kongur, art. 8765 headings and listed under lung damage & freezing air, 87 227 Special Districts at end aspects of small expeditions, March, W.: his book: Modern Snow 87237 and Ice Techniques, 90 276 sherpas & sickness, 89 80 (with J. Cunningham) 'New ice- acute mountain sickness, art. climbing techniques and 81217; 8968 equipment', 77 75 notes, 90 257 Marcus, P.: 'Metallized plastic 'Does the lung pump oxygen?', sheeting for use in cold climate art. 91 171 survival', 82 126 see also entries under Oedema Marriott, E.H.: Medicine: books: Medicine for obit. & port. 91 286; 92 282 mountaineering, 75 311 Marriott, M.: his book: Mountains Japanese Journal of Mountain and Hills of Britain, 88246 Medicine, 88243 Marsh, J.: his book: Climbing in Mountain Data Centre Southern Ontario, 87260 information, 91 263 Marsh, T.: his book: Medlycott, T.A.H.: The Summits of Snowdonia, 90 261 death, 76 291; 77296 Marshall, J.: 'Dougal Haston - a obit. 78289 tribute', 83 132 Mehrbani: summit reached, 83 69 Martel, E.A.: ill. 83 68 doyen of European caving, 80 111 Mehta, S.S.: 'Triennial Report Martin, S.: 1972-74 Indian Himalaya', 80239 'Everest - Pre-monsoon', 90 113 Meije, the: 1st asc. (1877), 82216 Martinelli, M.: Meikle, A.H.: obit. 90 282 his book: (with R.I. Perla) Melzer, B.: death, 76 189 Avalanche Handbook, 85251 Menthosa: reconnaissance, 75 41 Masherbrum: attempt, 75 43 in list of first ascs., 89 185 1st asc., 76 225 Mason, Lt. Co!. K.: obit. 82271 other ascs., 79 22, 26 Matas, J.: death, 77246 summit reached by new route, Matsuda, T.: 85155 death on Yalung Kang, 8026-7 Merle d'Aubigne, R.: his book: Matsukata, S.: obit. 79 282 Secourisme en Montagne, 75312 Matterhorn: N face, attempt, 7467 Merrick, H.: his books: by N face, 75 141; 92 167 (with R. Lobi) The Alps in Colour winter attempt by W face, 78 8 76306 queues on, 80286 Companion to the Alps, 80 252 1st guideless asc. (1876), 81225 Merrick, Mary H.: obit. 84 269 North Face film, 82265 Messner, G.: death, 76 221 accident on, 83 234 Messner, R.: his books: image of, art. 89113 The Seventh Grade, 80 289 Maudit, Mt: by SE face, variation to Mountain People of the World, Kagami route, 75 138 82264 38 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Messner, R.: Milner, e.D.: The Challenge, 84 258 his book: The Photoguide to The Big Walls, 85251 Mountains, 83259 Everest, Expedition to the Milsom, Mrs M.G.: obit. 91268 Ultimate, 85 255 Minapin (Diran): K2 Mountain of Mountains, 1st asc., 74 217; 75 185 87259 attempt, 76 219 Solo Nanga Parbat, 87 260 Minapta Valley: 74 253 subject of art. by O. Oelz, 92 100 Minivielle, P.: his book: A la Metcalfe, Sir R.I.: obit. 84269 Decouverte de la Sierra de Guarra, Meteorology: notes, 80 281 80291 see Science notes Mir Samir: Metric conversions: by new routes, 76 218; 77245 difficulties of, 82 259 1st asc. of SW summit, 79 254 Meyers, G.: (compiler) his book: Mitchell, R.L.: obit. 88257 Yosemite Climber, 85257 Miyar Nullah: King's School, Ely Miangul Sar: expedition to, 85 154; map, 1st, 2nd & 3rd ascs., 74 188 85 155 Midgley, J.e.: obit. 90286 summary of peaks ascended, Midi d'Ossau, Pic du: 85157 description of, 80 132-3 Mjelva Crag: 1st ascs. of central Milburn, G.: 'Events & Trends 1978-81 diedre & N edge, 74 172 Rock climbing in Britain', 87 175 Modi Peak: 2nd asc., 76 229 his books: Llanberis Pass, 87257 Moffat, Gwen: her books: Stanage Millstone, 89253 Hard Option, 81 264 Derwent Gritstone, 91 255 Over the Sea to Death, 82 262 Helyg, 92261 Hard Road West, 87 254 (with T. Jones) Welsh Rock, Die like a Dog, 89 247 92257 Grizzly Trail, 90275 Miles, G.e.: obit. 82272 Mojon Rojo: 2nd known asc., 74 273 Mill, D.N.: obit. 87267 Molnar, P.: 'Ulugh Muztagh', 92104 Millar, T.G.: his book: Long Manch: Distance Paths of England and NE ridge, 1st asc. (1877), 82 215 Wales, 83262 climb on, 1st Alpine season, 8730 Milledge, J.S.: Mongejura: 'Acute Mountain Sickness', 89 68 1st asc. of W diedre, 74 154, 171 'Does the lung pump oxygen?', Mongolia: 91 171 review of mountains, art. 86 104; Miller, K.J.: 'Traverse of the map, 86 104-5 Staunings Alps', 81 143 Mont, e.: 'Montserrat', 79210 his book: Continents in Collision, 'Languedoc Limestone', 80218 88235 The Caroux', 81 212 Mills, A.: 'Walking and climbing in 'Mountain landscape - erosion Botswana', 84 38 landforms', 83198 'Additional notes on Namibia', 'Outcrops in Vaud', 84141 85 197 'Some more lists of mountains', Milne, M.: his book: The Book of 84197 Modern Mountaineering, 74369 'Fontainebleau', 85 208 Milner, e.D.: 'Basil Goodfellow - 'More rocks in central France', mountain photographer', 82 199 87135 'Shots from the backwoods', 84 78 'Freyr', 88 134 'Samivel - an appreciation', 8559 Monteath, e.: Triennial Report 'Sydney Spencer - mountain 1969-71Australasia', 77 219 photographer', 86 132 Montfort, J.M.: 'Spanish expedition Hindu Kush 1973', 79 199 GENERAL INDEX 39 Montmirail, Dentelles de: Mould, P.: ' - the climbs on, 79207 Bhillangana valley', 82 168 Montserrat: 'Mountaineering in Bhutan', 90 21 climbs in the Massif, 79210 'Dear Dad', 90 140 Monzino, G.: his book: La Mountain(s): use of a, to find the Spedizione ltaliana mass of the earth, 78 96 All'Everest 1973, 82261 building & , notes, Moore, T.: 80279 (with K. Andrasko) 'Shining films, 80 167 mountains, nameless valleys: gorilla, compared to Yeti, 80 104 Alaska and the Yukon', Pt.I geological definition, 80 56; 83 198 8119; PUI 8323; PUll 84 64 heights, list of principal mountains 'Sangay Survived - the first time', in world, 81 75 8628 artists & paintings, art. 85 33 his book: Mount McKinley: the paintings exhibited at Alpine Pioneer Climbs, 74375 Club, 85243 Moores, P.: 'Five Miles High in early history, 86 90 without oxygen', 89 59 clothing, 86 138, 237 Moran, M.: Mountain and cave rescue: 'Views on the Gangotri', 91 57 handbook, 91 258 his book: The Munros in Winter, Mountain, R.W.: obit. 87261 92273 Mountaineering: Moravetz, B.: his book (editor): The as an Olympic Sport, 80 90 Big Book of Mountaineering, and war, 84 256 88247 Mountaineering Journals: reviewed, Moravia: climbing areas, 8277 74383; 75318; 76317; 78277 Mordecai, D.: his book: available at Alpine Club, 7927; The Himalaya (an illus. 80292 summary), 75 317 Mountaineers, USA (publishers): Morgan, G.: book: 'China's Highest Mountain', 88 65 Medicine for Mountaineering, Morin, Micheline: obit. 78 294 75311 Morin, Nea: climbing career, 82 114; Mountaineers and Scientists: 8379-81 distinction between, 86 247 obit. & port., 92 290 Mourti, Pointe de: by new routes on Moro Pass, Mte: history of, 76 127 N & S summits, 74 176 visited, 79 69 Mroz, A.: 'Winter 1971-72', 788 Morocco: death, 78 8 (f.n.) expedition to High Atlas, 78236 Muhi Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169 art. with photos, 'The Ridge of Mukar Beh: 1st asc., 74 58, 227 Dreams', 92 150 Mulhacen, El: guidebook notes, 92 250 's highest mountain, 89 119 guidebook, 92 274 Mulkila: asc., 76 224 Morris, J.: obit. & port., 87268 attempt, 78 180 Morse, R.G.: his books: Muller, F.: The Mountains of Canada, 84 260 his book: (with others) Firn und The Naked Mountain, 89 249 Eis der Schweizer Alpen, 82263 'Morte d'un Guide: film, 82265 Munns, D.J.: obit. 79282 Mortimer, M.: 'The North Face of Munos Gamero Peninsula: Monte Agner', 74 36 visited, 80 1, 3 Motorbikes: & mountaineering, Munoz-Tebar, R.A.R.: 82248 his book: Nieves y Riscos Moulam, T.: his book: Meridenos, 87253 Dartmoor, 83 247 40 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Munro's Tables of the 3000-foot Nanga Parbat: Mountains in Scotland: traverse, 76 219 1969 edition, 75 317 4th asc. & 1st of SE & Fore 1981 edition, 88 246 Peaks, 77 247 SMC Guidebook, 92 256 6th asc. by new route on S side, Munros in Winter, book by M. 82238 Moran, 92273 account of 1978 Czech expedition, Munsey, D.T.F.: obit. 86268 88244 Muongia, La: ski asc., 75 129 asc. by E pillar, art. 89 21 Murarata: map, 76221; 8922 1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221 ill. 89 between 24 & 25 Murphy, B.: Nangeroni, G.: 'AC Karakoram Meet', 91 53 his book: (with R. Cassin) Lhotse Murphy, Dervla: her book: Where 75, 83263 the Indus is Young, 84 262 Napes Needle: art. 81 53; ill. 81 54 Murray, Edith A.: obit. 92 303 Napier, J.: his book: Murray, W.H.: Big Foot, 87258 'Present Moments', 86 47 Naranjo de Bulnes: 86175 his books: Natal: The Scottish Highlands, 83263 events & trends 1974-76, 82231 Mountaineering in Scotland, Navarette, R.: his book (with J 85252 Anhalzer) Par los Andes del Undiscovered Scotland, 85252 Ecuador 90 273 Mustagh Ata: ref. to in art. 86 9 Navy Mts (Ellesmere Island): ill. 86 11 79174 asc. on ski, art. 88 29 Naylor, J.: ill. 88 between 32 & 33 Lake District runner, 81 40, 43-4 successful expeditions to, 89 195, Neal, K.: 'Fuorikante', 90 145 196 Neate, W.R.: his book: electrifying experience, art. with Mountaineering and its Literature photos, 92 117 85249 Mustagh Tower: climbed, 90 76 Nelson's Mts: 1. Thomas Douglas, 781 NAGRA TAU: attempt by N face, 2. Goodwin Purcell, 79 34 76112 Nepal: regulations governing Nairz, W.: 'Manaslu 1972',7915 mountaineering expeditions, Nakaseko N.: 'Japanese Women's 74 230; 80 264; 83 226; 84 229 Expedition - Manaslu 1974', 80 94 notes and new climbs: Nally, B.: 'Suddenly all hell broke 1969, 75 196 1978, 84 231 loose', 74 67 1970, 76227 1979, 85 223 Namibia: climbing in, 84 113; 85 197 1971, 77 248 1980, 86225 Nampa: attempt, 76 227; 77 126 1972, 78241 1981, 87222 1st asc., 78 241 1973, 79255 1982, 88 199 Nanda Bhanar: attempt, 75 196 1974, 80264 1983, 89 197 : attempt, 76 227 1975, 81 241 1984, 90 216 ill. & ref. to, 80 158 1976, 82 239 1985, 91 203 climbed by N ridge, 82 239 1977, 83239 1986, 92203 traverse from Nanda Devi E, events & trends 1970-6, 83218 82238 running in, art. 84 181 spy devices on, 84 253 thoughts on climbing, art. 88 201 Nanda Khat: attempt, 76 227 guidelines & notes for Nanda Pal: 1st asc., 79 255 expeditions & travellers, Nanga Parbat: 89200-6 attempt by Rupal face, 74225 winter journey in Eastern, art. 3rd asc., 1st by Rupal face, 1st 91 103 GENERAL INDEX 41 Nepal: North America: notes: guide to trekking in, 91 259 74240 82242 asc. of Mera, art. 9289 75206 83241 Nevada, Sierra (Spain): 76239 84 234 ski-touring in, 74 179 77250 85226 Nevado Huascaran Sur: 78247 86229 traverse by SW ridge, 88 159-60 79257 88207 ill. 88 between 160 & 161 80268 90229 New Guinea: expedition to Carstensz 81243 Massif, 78 188 triennial report 1969-71, 77229 M.E.F. note, 92 243 climbing trends 1972-74, 80238 New Zealand: mountaineering rock climbing, art. 90 153 developments in, art. 7471 ill. 90 between 152-3, following notes: 160 74237 81243 M.E.F. notes, 92 238 75203 82241 North Pole: reached solo, 84 253 76238 84233 North Wales: new climbs, 80274 77225 85225 Norway: 78243 86229 climbing in Romsdal, art. 74 150 79256 91225 note, 74 171 80267 92236 Lofoten islands, 74 169 plate tectonics in, 85 239 ski traverse of Haute Route of climbing in, art. 91 133 central, 75 136 Newby, E.: his book: Great Ascents new climbs 1972, 78 233 - a narrative history of rock climbing in, Northern, art. mountaineering, 83 259 87246 Ngga Poloc: asc., 78 192 : ascs., 75172,173; 76215; Nicholls, C.R.: obit. 92307 78 184; 82 28; 84 139 Nichols, K.: his book: Traprock. 1st winter asc., 79 11, 24 Connecticut Rock Climbs, 88 249 Nowill, S.: 'Turkey 1980 - Torasan, Nicol, D.: 'Kinabalu - Northern Kackar and mountain rescue', Borneo', 90 187 86159 Nicol, H.G.: 'Paldor', 9178 Noyce, C.W.F.: Niger: ascs. in, 77 243 his book: (with I. McMorrin) The Niligata Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203 World Atlas of Mountaineering, Nisbet, A.: 'Winter Climbing on the 75298 Peigne, Scottish Style', 89134 Nun Kun: ascs., 78 240 his book: (with A. Fyffe) descent of Nun on skis, 83238 'Climbers' Guide to the Nunn, P.: 'A hundred days in the Cairngorms, 91 260 Himalaya 1977. Pt.I Latok II', Nixon, J.: 'British West Karakoram 83114 Expedition 1981', 87 132 'A hundred days in the Himalaya 'The British Andean Climbing 1977. Pt.II Baleful Barnaj', Expedition 1986', 92 67 8487 Nogare, R.D.: obit. 84 265; 85261 'The Karakoram 1982', 88 192 Noghor Zorn I & II: 1st ascs., 74 204 'Karakoram 1983', 89212 Nohbaisnom Zorn: 1st asc., 74 200 'Karakoram 1985', 91 208 Norande, S.: his book: (with Samivel) 'Karakoram 1986', 92210 La Grande Ronde autour du Mont Nuptse: British Nepalese Army Blanc, 87 248 Expedition to, 81 107 Nordeifel: climbs in the, 86 153 attempt, 81 107, 241 Nordic Ski-ing: 1st asc. of NW ridge, 83 240 developments in equipment, climbed, 85 223 84245 Nuts: protection devices, 84 244 Norte, Cerro: 1st asc., 75234 Nyka, J.: (with A. Kus) 'Note on the history of Polish Alpinism', 78 107 42 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Nylon garments: 6sterreichischer Alpenklub: waterproof outer, 74326 centenary, 83 254 Ostrava, Cerro (Patagonia): OBERALPSTOCK: asc. on skis, 1st asc., 75 236 7486 Otten, P.F.S.: obit. 74395 Oberland, Bernese: British ascs. in, Ovchinnikov, A.: 'The first ascent of 1971, 77240; 1972,78232 the S face of Peak Communism, climbs in the 1880's, art. 86 115 1968' 7425 Oberreintalturm: Owens, Major G.: obit. 81270 by Gonda diedre, 74 179 Owir I: see Ausher climbing in the area of, art. 91 122 Oxford English Dictionary: O'Brien, Miriam: see Underhill, M. on clubs, 86 247 Observatories: Oyarzun, G.: 'The Chilean in the mountains, art. 89 173 Karakoram expedition 1979', O'Connell, K.: 85 151 'The Way to Chulu', 9097 obit. 90289 PADME HUM PEAK: 85 136 O'Connor, W.: Paglia Orba: by E face, 74 181 'Last Virgin in the Khumbu', 88 21 Paiju: climbed, 82 237 Odell, Mrs G.M.: obit. 83270 Pain de Sucre: O'Donovan, R.: 'The South Face of by SE ridge direct, 76 193 Mount Dan Beard (3127m) Paine, Cordillera del: 1st ascs. of Alaska', 80 63 Cerro Blanco & Principal Oedema: field study, 81 217 Cuernos, 74276 art. 85 168 attempt, ascs. & prospects, 75 234-6 pulmonary & cerebral, 8968 Central Tower, attempt by E face, Oelz, 0.: ': the 78199 asc. by E face, 805-15 Phenomenon', 92 100 Mummer, the, 1st asc., 84 117 Ogi, F.: obit. 86263 Pakistan Alpine Club: Ogre (Karakoram): attempt, 77 247 founded, 79 272 1st asc., 83 3; ill. 83 117 Pala di San Martino: Okasawa, S.: his book: Crags of the 1st asc. (1878), 83 213 Swiss Bernese Alps, 83 236 Palanganayoc Range: 74 270 Olan L': 1st asc. of middle summit Palava rocks: art. 82 143 by NW face direct, 76 194 Paldor: Olech, K.: 'The first ascent of trek to & asc. of, art. 91 78 Kangbachen', 80 29 Pallavicini Couloir: One ht:ndred years ago: account of, 82 193-5 74340 83211 Palmer, J.: 75278 84204 his book: (with A. Burgess) 76175 85211 Everest, the Ultimate 77215 86212 Challenge' 90 267 78206 87 158 Palmer Land, Antarctica: 89 87 79213 8880 Palmowska, Krystyna: 80231 8963 'Broad Peak', 89 11 81220 90121 Palii, Piz: asc., 75 129 82 213 91 192 by W pillar of N face, 76 105, 200 92198 by E pillar, 79 65 One-man expeditions: art. 89 168 Pamiagdluk Island: 80 203 Orienteering: getting fit for the Pamirs: Alps, 74345 summary of major peaks, 78 177 Orolin, M.: his book: Strme Cesty new climbs & notes, 83237 k Himalajam, 87 260 topography & climbing Oropolitics: 89 74 background, art. 85 83 Ossa, Mt (Tasmania): 86 18 see also Special Districts p. 74 GENERAL INDEX 43 Panch Chuli: attempt, 76227 Patey, T.: death, 75 285 1st asc., 79 254 obit. & port. 76331 Papsura: 2nd asc., 78 240 his book: One Man's Mountains, climbed, 83 151; ill. 83 150, 151 77278 Paptula: asc., 7841 Patrasi Himal: Papua, New Guinea: 89 190 1st asc. of Pt. 5967m, 77 248 Parachuting: from mountains, Pause, W.: his books: 74349; 1m Extremen Fels, 76311 75 280; 76 99; 87 233 (with J. Winkler) 100 Sealate Paradiso range: description, 82 133 Estreme, 85253 ill. Gran Paradiso, 82 135, 139 Payne, R.: 'Three excursions in the Paragot, R.: (with others) 'The Peruvian Cordilleras', 92 37 French expedition to Makalu Peacocke, T.A.H.: West Ridge 1971', 7844 'The Circuit of Andorra', 83 160 his book: (with L. Berardini) Vingt Peak 29 (Dakura): attempt, 75 199 Ans de Cordee, 80 290 possible 1st ascs., 76229; 85223; Parbati Group: 1st & 2nd ascs. of 89185 highest peak, 74226; 75 53, 194 Peak 141 (Mandaras glacier): ill. 75 56, 57; map, 75 54 1st asc., 75 174 Parbati South, attempted, 79 115 Peak 18,977 ft. (Lahul): climbed; 79 124; ill. 79 116-7, 1st asc., 75 43 119, 122, 123, 125, 126; map, Peak 20,684 ft. (Chaturangi glacier): 79120 1st asc., 75 195 Pardoe, E.: obit. 76330 Peak District: Parker, J.W.: his book: walking in, art. 80 71; map, 80 70 Scrambles in Skye, 89253 Peaker, G.F.: obit. &' port. 89264 Parmentier, M.: Pearl, Susan Warren: obit. 89268 his book: (with M. Berruex) Les Pearse, R.O.: Grands Raids a Ski, 90274 'The Natal Drakensberg', 78 27 Parque Nacional los Nevados, his book: Barrier of Spears, 80 254 Colombia: 82 54 Peascod, W.: his book: Pasteur, F.M.: obit. 86269 Journey after Dawn, 91 248 Pasteur, H.W.: obit. 91269 Peck, E.: 'Mt Everest Foundation Pasteur, M.: obit. 87261 Notes 1980-81', 87 238 Pasu Peak: 89 186 'Round Annapurna - the Trekking Patagonia: asc. of SW buttress of Party', 87 186 FitzRoy, 74 131 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes notes & new climbs 1968, 74273 1981-82',88212 notes & new climbs 1969-70, 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 75225 1982-83', 89 188 Southern ice-cap: 1st crossing of 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes central part, 79 237 1983-84', 90 247 map, 79 239; ill. 79 242-3 'An October Trek in Bhutan', new climbs 1973-74, 80 270 9194 history & prospects, 81 194 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes and Tierra del Fuego: events & 1984-85', 91 227 trends 1974-76, 82226 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes new climbs 1978, 84241 1985-86', 92 238 E ridge of San Lorenzo, art. 9248 Pedgley, D.: his book: Cordillera Darwin, art. 92 54 Mountain Weather, 86258 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 Pedriza del Manzanares, La: Patel, N.: death, 76226 art. 82 145 Paterson, Grizel M.S.: obit. 90 288 Pegish Valley: 1st ascs. from, 75 177 44 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Pegish Zorn I & II: Peters, E.: his book (editor): 1st ascs., 74 203-4 Mountaineering, the Freedom of Peigne, Aig. du: couloir dangerous the Hills, 88 247 in descent, 74 173 Peters, I.: 'Beyond Patagonia', 92 54 asc. of N ridge, art. 82 186 Pettifer, M.: obit. 83 271 Peigne, Col du: Pettigiani, G.: his book (with G. winter asc., art. 89 134 Agnolotti) ill. 89 following 144 "Cordigliera tra cielo e Peilstein: climbs on, 79208 ghiaccio" 86 255 Peissel, M.: his book: The Great Peuterey, Aig. Noire de: Himalayan Passage, 81 264 by S ridge, 75 138 Pembroke: 2nd asc. of W face by Boccalatte geology & accident hazards, route, 76 193 90 148 key to start of S ridge, 76 193 Pennine Alps: 1st asc. (1877), 82 216 travel & trade in, art. 77 175 Peuterey, Aig. Blanche de: British ascs. in 1971, 77 241 1st British asc. by N face, 75 138 British ascs. in 1972, 78231 Phabrang: reconnaissance & attempt Penning, A.: his guide: on, 7541-7 Wyndcliffe, 89255 1st asc., 78 240 Pennisi, F. & L.: their book: Phenomena, optical: L'Arrampicata Sportiva, 90262 for mountaineers, art. 77 39 Pepper, L.R.: Phipps, Mt: climbed 82 56 obit. & port. 88 256 Phola Gangchhen: 1st asc., 90299 obit. 89259 Photography: 'Tairraz family of Perdu, Mt: 86 77 Chamonix -four generations of Perla, R.I.: mountain photographers', ill. his book: (with M. Martinelli) art. 80 161 Avalanche handbook, 85251 'Basil Goodfellow - mountain Perrin, J.: his books: photographer', art. 82 199 (editor) Mirrors in the Cliffs, the Tempest Anderson collection 90260 at the Yorkshire museum, The Life of J.M. Edwards, 92253 85258 On and Off the Rocks, 92 265 from the Alpine Club Archives, Perry, R.: his book: 85192 Mountain Wildlife, 87259 early mountain, art. 86 132 Personality tests on climbers: 74 101 by Vittorio Sella, 88 following 224 Peru: notes & new climbs: Vittorio Sella, catalogue of his 74247 85229 photographs, 89 250 75210 87224 Mountains and Mountaineering 80269 89226 1883-1983, an exhibition of 84239 photographs by Alpine Club triennial report 1971-73, 79229 members, 89278 events & trends 1974-76, 82220 book: Montagne - a collection of climbs in Cordillera Apolobamba, mountain photographs, 90 278 art. 91135 Phu Dorje: death, 75 341 Andes guidebook, 91 252-3 Phukpoche glacier: Three excursions in the Cordilleras ascs. of unnamed summits, 76 224 art. 9237 Phunangma: ascs., 76 224 M.E.F. notes, 91 228 Phuparash Peaks: photo, 74223 Peskett, N.: obit. 92286 Physiology: new developments in, Peter Botte Mt: 1st asc., 78 161 81 254; 82252; 83 158, 251 Peterka, H.: 'Peilstein - a well Picos de Europa: known Viennese training climbs, 86175; 87254 mountain', 79 208 history, 86 172 GENERAL INDEX 45 Pierre, B.: his books: Le Petit Sherpa Poland: aux yeux bleus, 75 312 history of alpinism in, art. 78 107 Victoire sur les Andes, 82 262 training rocks in, 81 213 Ils ont conquis l'Himalaya, 85257 mountain rescue in, 90 245 Phuti et l'homme des Neiges, Polar regions: 1971 ascs. in, 77 254 87258 triennial report 1970-72, 78213 Pigeon Sisters: new climbs: climbing career, 81 94 81250 85231 Pigott, AS.: obit. 85262 82244 86235 Pilier d'Angle, Grand: Polish asc. by 83246 89220 new route on S face, 75 95, 137 84242 Pilkington, J.: his book: Polish climbers: Into Thin Air, 92272 personality of, art. 79 87 Pillar Rock: 82 44-6; ill. 8243, 45 Pollitt, A: his books: Pilley, Dorothy: N Wales. New Climbs, 89253 climbing career, 82 110-11 N Wales Limestone 1983, 90263 see also Richards, Dorothea Pollution in the Alps: art. 81 160 Pillwax Couloir: 82 195 Pontic Alps (Turkey): expedition to Pindos range: traverse of, 78 25 Kackar Karron group, 75 153 Pines, A: obit. 87 269 Porongorups (Australia): Piotrowski, T.: 'Trollryggen North ascs. in, 79 32 Face in Winter', 81 172 Porte P.: his book: (with Z. Arbez) Pisco: climbed, 82 165 Vos Premiers Pas en ski de Fond, Pithoragahr: regional notes & new 82263 climbs, 85 223 Porter, Doris S.: obit. 86269 Piuquenes area (Andes): Porter, H.E.L.: obit. 79283 ascs. in, 75 223 Porters, Himalayan: Planchon, Cerro: 1st asc., 75 236 regulations for hiring, 90 208 Plateriyayoc Group: Postcards, mountain: 84 110 Bangor expedition to, 74 263 Potter, A.: obit. 81 270 Playgrounds, climbers': 76 169; Potter, S.: 'The art of not rock 77 183; 78 116; 79207 climbing', 84 107 Pleydell, Susan: her novel: Poucher, W.A: his books: Brighouse Hotel, 85 251 The Lake District, 88 256 Pogacnikov Hut, Julian Alps: The Highlands of Scotland; The 8295, 98 Alps, 89251 Poincenot, Aig.: 2nd asc., 74274 The Yorkshire Dales and the Peak Pt. 19,690 ft. (Gangotri): District, 90 264 asc., 74228 Pousset Chalets: 82 138-40 Pt. 19,879 ft. (SSE of Kholi): Powell, P.: his book: asc., 74229 Men Aspiring, 74 373 Pt. 21,390 ft. (E of Deoban): Powers, D.F. de Y.: death, 77272 2nd, 3rd & 4th ascs., 74 228, 229 Pra See, Aig. de: Pt. 23,080 ft. (W of Tirsuli): 1st asc. by E face, 75 139 attempt, 74 229 Prabhu, R.S.: death, 76227 Pt. 5681 m. (Kotgaz-Chhutidum): Pravda, Peak: by a new route, 74 29 1st asc., 74 205 Pre-Alps of Switzerland: art. 84 92 Pokorny, G.: 'Fiction in Preston, L.J.G.: Mountaineering Literature', 'Memories of a first season', 87 30 85121 'A Long Day on the Schreckhorn', his book: (with others) The 88170 International Directory of Pret-Roose, Count M. de: Mountaineering Clubs and obit. & port. 86 270 Organizations, 85 253 Price, L.W.: his book: Mountains and Man, 87254 46 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Price, T.: 'Short of the Folding Pyatt, E.C.: Stuff', 91 183 'Some pioneers of coasteering' , Prisojnik: 82 99 83 191 Prosser, J.: 'Mountains - the lighter side', 'Parbati South, 1972', 79 115 84107 Prunes, J.: 'The Spanish expedition (with T. Connor) compilers towards Central Kangchenjunga 'Science Notes', 84 246; 85 238 1978' 86 177 'The Matterhorn Image', 89 113 Pruppoo-Brukh: 1st asc., 84118 'Climb an Eponymous Mountain', Prusiking: new method, 84 244 91146 Psychological behaviour at altitude: his books: A Climber in the West art. 80244 Country, 74 377 Pumasillo group: Climbing and Walking in South- with map & photographs, 74 256 East England, 76307 Australian expedition to, 75 212 The Guinness Book of Pumori: 2nd asc., 78 242 Mountains and Mountaineering ascs., 81 241 Facts and Feats, 86251 Purace Group, Colombia: 82 51 The National Physical Purcell Range: Laboratory - a History, 89 247 description of & climbs in, 79 34 The Passage of the Alps, 91 244 Puskas, A.: obit. 91287 his book: (with I. Urbanovic) Pyrenees: Western National Park, Nanga Parbat 8125m., 82264 art. 80 129; map, 80 138 Putha Hiunchuli: climbing history, art. 8421 2nd & 3rd ascs., 78241 ski-tour in, 8671 attempt, 79 255 glacier incident, 87 28 Putnam, W.L.: 'Nelson's Mountains. travels in, arts. 88 145; 89 84; 1. Thomas Douglas', 78 1 90 166 'Nelson's Mountains. 2. Goodwin high level route guidebook, 88244 Purcell', 79 34 art. 'Packe of the Pyrenees', his book: The Great Glacier and 92156 its house, 88 248 Putt, c.: (with P. Lloyd) a tribute QAZI DEH: to H.W. Tilman (1898-1978), Austrian 1st ascs. in, 75 169 84 132 American expedition to, 75 173 Pyatt, E.C.: Editor of Alpine Quala Panja Valley: ascs. by French Journal 1971-82 expedition from, with map, 74215 'Chalk climbing in France', 76 173 Quimsa Cruz, Cordillera: ascs. by 'Intervisibility', 77 172 Japanese expedition to, with 'Mountain landscape - the map, 74271 Auvergne' 77 190 German expedition to, 75 173 'Bicentenary 1972', 78 96 Quitaraju: 'North-Western France', 78117 1st asc. by S ridge, 75 212 (with M. Brandt) 'Mountain Qungur Massif: landscape - the Jura', 78 146 climbing history, 75202 (with J. Russell) 'Mountain landscape - the Vosges', 79 149 RADAR mapping: 80226 'The Dentelles de Montmirail', Radcliffe, P.: his book: Land of 79207 Mountains - Hiking and Climbing 'Burgundy - the Cote d'Or', 80 213 in New Zealand, 87257 'The mapping of mountain terrain Rahozon Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169 by side-looking airborne radar', Railways: alpine, 77 129; 84 122 80226 Rainier, Mt: ill. 82 66 'Notes 1974 Equipment and Rainoldi, L.: his books : Antrona, Technique', 80 277 Bognanco, Sempione, 84263 Alpe Veglia, 86257 GENERAL INDEX 47 Rakaposhi: Rescue equipment: climbed, 85 222; 86 188; 89 185 advances in, in Britain, 75 267 N ridge route, diagram, 86 186 Resort building: Rakhe Myani I & II: 1st ascs., in the Alps, 77 274; 79 274 76215 Revolution Peak: 8585-7 Ramchukor: asc., 7922,27 Rey, A.: death, 75 347; obit. 76339 Ramond de Carbonnieres, L.-F.: Reynolds, Jan: life & writings of, art. 86 147 his book: (with N. Gillette) Ranitz, de, Dr C.J.A.: obit. 89263 Everest Grand Circle, 92269 Ranrapalca: asc., 7441 Reynolds, K.: 'Because its there - Ras Dashan: and all that', 83 17 1st asc. by NW pillar, 75 149 'A progress in Pyreneisme', 8421 Rasac: 1st asc. of S face, 83 243 'The life and writings of Ramond', Rasica, Pta: asc., 75 48 86147 Raura, Cordillera: 'That sinking feeling', 87 27 Italian expedition to, 74 255 'Across the High Pyrenees', 88 145 ascs. in, 75 212 'Not the Accursed Mountain', Rawlinson, Sir A.K.: President of 8984 Alpine Club, obit. 91 1 'A Very Proper Enthusiasm', Reader's Digest books: 90166 Les Alpes, 76 306 his book: Mountains of the Guide des Plantes Sauvages, Pyrenees, 89242 76311 'Packe of the Pyrenees', 92 156 Real, Cordillera: Rhodesia: climbing in, 77 86-9; expeditions to, 75221; 78201 78235; 79223; 80260 1972 expedition to, 78 201 map, 7789 list of ascs., 78 205 Rice, N.R.: 'A guide to the archives art. with photos, 90 172 of the Alpine Club', 78 71 Rebiffe, Monique: death, 79279 'Hauteroche', 86 157 Richard, G.: 'The Valleys of the 'Climbs in Champagne: Vertus', Creuse and the Anglin', 81 217 88133 'The Rocks at Surgy (Nievre, Rebuffat, G.: his books: France)', 83143 Glace, Neige et Roc, 76 305 Richards, Dorothea: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 obit. & port. 92 308 finest routes, 81 228 see also Pilley, Dorothy Les Horizons Gagnes, 81265 Richards, LA.: 'Mountains and Gli Orizzonti Conquistati, 83 262 Mountaineering as Symbols', Calanques, Ste Baume, Ste 82235 Victoire, 86 259 obit. 85263 Chamonix Mont Blanc 1900, poems: 'Soldanella's Song', 88 64 87250 'Finhaut', 88 152 Le Massif des Ecrins, 89 250 Richards, R.: 'International Meet to Cervin, 89 251 Transalai Pamir', 80 89 (with others) a collection of 15 Richards, Ronnie: (with P. books of Belles Courses etc., Boardman) 90 268 'British Everest expedition SW obit. & port. 91 281 face 1975', 81 3 Rees, LB.: his book: Richardson, Dorothy: her book: The Mynyddoedd, 82263 Quest of Simon Richardson, a Rees, Lucy: Biography, 92 269 her book: (with A. Harris) Take it Richardson, S.: to the limit, 87254 'Andes Adventure', 90 184 Renner, G.: his book: Biwak auf 'Hunter's S Ridge - Alpine Style', dem Dach der Welt, 87 260 9210 48 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Ridgeway, R.: his book: Rodda, R.: 'Mountains and Climbs The Last Step, 87 252 in Tasmania', 86 17 Ridley, N.M.: his book: Expedition Roer, H.H.: obit. 92296 to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Roger, G.: obit. & port. 89274 Marta of Colombia, 81 265 Rogers, B.: death, 75 346 Rieffel, R.: his book: Rogers, N.A.J.: 'Climbs in the Nepal Namaste, 89 250 Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia', 7548 Ripley, B.: death, 74224 Rogerson, F.: obit. 74393 'In quest of the Ultimate', 81 40 Rishi Gorge: 8652 Rodwell, R.W.: obit. 88275 Risks in mountaineering: 86 4, 210 Rolleston, Mt: climbed, ill. 82 64 Rittman, A & L: Rome: outcrop climbing from, their book: Volcanoes, 83262 77188 Rivetti, Count G.A.: obit. 84265 Romero, R.A.: his book: Road building: in the Alps, 77 273 Nievesy Riscos Meridenos, 83246 Robbins, D.W.: obit. 92312 Romsdal: historical notes, 81 174 Roberts, D.: his book: Rondoy: W face, 1st asc., 83243 The Mountain of my Fear, 75308 Rope, mountaineering: tests & life Roberts, David: obit. 80 302 span of, 74315, 316; 75 274; Roberts, E.: 'The Grosslockner, its 78 62; 82 156; 8443, 245 climbs and pioneers', 82 189 Roper, S.: obit. 85265 his books: his books: Welzenbach's Climbs, (editor with A. Steck & ors.) 86254 Ascent - the Mountaineering High Level Route, 90265 Experience in Word and Image, Roberts, M.: his book: 82262 Selected Poems and Prose, 86 252 (with A. Steck) Fifty classic Robertson, D.: his book: climbs of North America, , 74 365 85257 Robertson, E.: obit. 81 271 (editor with A. Steck) Ascent, Robinson, B.D.: 90272 his book: (with D. Harmon) Rosa, Mte: ski descent of Marinelli Columbia Icefield - a Solitude couloir, 75 35 of Ice, 87 257 the Marinelli accident (1881), Robinson, M.: 'The Profit of Impurism 86218 - the Shawangunk scene', 8681 Rosser, M.: 'Gwent Andean Robinson, Sir R.: obit. 81 271 Expedition 1983', 89 161 Robson, Mt: Rosso, Cima di: 2nd asc. by N face, 75 208 1st asc. by N pillar, 75 145 Robson, P.: his book: Rotenfels: rock-climbing, 87 139 Mountains of Kenya, 75 316 Roth, A.: his book: Roc Noir: 1st asc., 75 197 Eiger, Wall of Death, 88250 Rocca Sbarua: Rother, R.: death, 75 347 climbs near Turin, 86 152 Rothorn, Zinal: Roccheta Alta: ascs., 75 146 1st winter asc. by E face, 78 232 Roche Melon: storm on the, 80 173 Rouge de Peuterey, Mt: Rochefort, Mt de: by new route on S face, 74 173 1st asc. by SW face, 74 174 Rouge de Rochefort, Aig.: 1st asc. Rock climbers: by S wall & SE an~te, 74173 motor aptitude of, 75282 Rouse, A.: 'Jannu', 85 77 Rock climbing: in France, art. 87 75 'Changing Values', 90 116 in Britain, art. 87 175 obit. 92304 Rockies: notes & new climbs, Rowe, I.: 'The North face of Les 75 101, 208; 78247; 80236-7; Courtes', 78 23 82243 GENERAL INDEX 49 Rowe, J.: his book: Ryan, T.: his guide: (Ireland) New The Ice Experience, 88246 Climbs 1982, 89254 Rowell, G.: Ry]?at, P.: his book: his books: (editor) The Vertical Celenka Matky Zeme, 87260 World of Yosemite, 84260 Ryn, Z.: 'Remarks on the In the Throne Room of the personality of Polish Climbers', Mountain Gods, 85249 7987 Many people come looking, 'Mental disturbances at high looking' 86 259 altitudes', 80 244 Mountains of the Middle Kingdom, 90258 SAFETY: margins of, 74 159 Royal Observatory, Edinburgh: Sahara: book on mountains of, 89 173 92271 Rozes, Pilastro di: St Elias, Mt: 5th asc., 74241 by S face direct, 75 146 attempt by E ridge & asc., 77 250 Rozman, K.: 'The British, Kugy and climbs 1972-4, 80236 W Slovenia', 92 182 climbing possibilities, ill. & map, Rubens, D.: 'The Scottish 81 19-27 Gasherbrum III Expedition', Saint-Exupery, Aguja: 9141 1st asc., 74 273 Rucksack Club: 80 75-82 St Helens, Mt: Ruiz-Tolima Group, Colombia: effects of 1980 eruption, 86246 8249 St Julien, the Rocher: art. 82 144 Rumbold, T.A.: death, 78264 Sajama: ascs., 76 248 Russell, c.A.: 'One hundred years Salbitschijen: complete traverse of ago', W ridge, 76 200 76175 85211 Sa1cantay: 77215 86212 1st asc. by N face, 74 262 78206 87158 by new route on S ridge, 74262 79213 8880 height, 76 244 80231 8963 Sale, R.: 'Climbing - the wrong 81220 90 121 route', 85 158 82213 91 192 Sales, H.: 'Transcending in Devon 83211 92198 and Cornwall', 79 145 84 204 Sales, M.: 'Greenland: The Russell, Prof. I.c.: Experience', 92 189 his explorations in Alaska, 81 24 Saleve, Mt: 80 214 Russell, J.M.: 'The National Park of Salter, J.: his book: the Western Pyrenees', 80129 Solo Faces, 86 256 (with E. Pyatt) 'Mountain Samivel: French mountain artist, Landscape - the Vosges', 79 149 cartoonist & writer: Russell, John: ill. art. 85 59 his book: (with A. Walton) Turner his books: in Switzerland, 83 260 Hommes, Cimes et Dieux, : notes, 74 184; 75 159 80293 Ruwenzori: new routes in, 77244 Cimes et Merveilles, 81 265 ill. art. 82 12 L' Opera de Pies, 86 256 Mt Speke traverse, 82 14 (with S. Norande) La Grande Stanley Massif: Pte Albert, 82 15 Ronde autour du Mont Blanc, Pte Margherita, 82 14 Pte 87248 Elizabeth, 82 15 Moebius Samivel des Cimes, book of Glacier, 82 16 Pte Alexandra & mountain ills., 91 253 glacier, 82 17 San Lorenzo: Mt Baker traverse, 82 20 possible 3rd asc., 78 252 ill. colour supplement, 82 between 16 & 17 50 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 San Roman, G.: his book: Guia de Saysse-Tobiczyka, K.: . Excursionismo para Ie Cordillera his book (editor): W Skakach I de Santiago, 83246 Lodah Swiata. Himalaje- San Valentin, Mt: 2nd asc., 75225 Karakorum, 84261 attempt, 79 44 Scandinavia: Sanderson, Rosemary E.: obit. practice crags in, 78 119 85266 ski-ing in, 83 91-7 Sandstone towers: Scerscen, Piz: of the American SW desert, 84 10 1st asc. (1877), 82 219 ill. 8410-19 Schaller, G.: his book: Stones of Sangay: 1st asc., 86 31 Silence, 87 257; 88 250 Sanseverino, J.: Schindlbacher, H.: 'Malubiting - 'The Inexhaustible Alps', 89 121 snow peak above desert Sansom, G.S.: his book: Climbing at valleys', 78 53 Wasdale before the First World Schipper, R.: 'The unconquered War 88 237 South face of Huandoy', 79 139 Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de: Schlick, A.: death, 7920 expedition to, 7878 Schneider, J.: 'Climbing in the Black Santa Valley (Peru): Forest', 84 142 earthquake disaster in, 76 241 'Siidpfalz (South Palatinate)', Santander, Pico: asc., 89 78 85209 Santorini: volcanic eruption, 85 238 'Nordeifel', 86 153 Saraghrar: 1st asc. of Speak, 74 202 'Rotenfels', 87 139 2nd asc. of central peak, 74 203 'The Bruchhauser Steine', 88 130 ill. 74 202 Schreckenback, K.: (with P. von attempted, 83 210 Gizycki) 'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198 Sarakyaguqi Peak: climbed, 86 14 Schreckhorn: an ascent, 88 172 Sark: Schreebeli, W.: climbing possibilities, 83 197-8 his book: (with F. Rothlisberger) Saser Kangri I: attempt, 76 224 8000 Jahre Walliser 1st asc., 79 254; 80 239 Gletschergeschichte, 85 253 Sass Maor: by E face, 74 179 Schulman, M.: 1st asc. (1875), 80 232-4 his book: (with others) Sasso d'Italia, Gran: 78 124 Fontainebleau escalades et map, 78125 randonnees, 89 245 Sat Dag: ascs. in, 75 157 Schwabe, U.: 'Noshaq on skis', Satellite mapping: 84 248 77110 Satellite pictures of mountains: Schwartz, G.T.: obit. 90281 83 28-36; 86 238, 242 Schwartz, K.: 'Advance and retreat Satopanth: attempt, 74 228 of Alpine Glaciers', 79 75 Saunders, A.V.: 'British Conway's Science notes (cover such subjects as Ogre Expedition 1980', 86 191 climatology, glaciology, biology, 'The British Caucasus Expedition physiology, geology, zoology etc.) 1986', 92 129 77269 83250 Saussois: climbing in, 77 183 78259 84246 Sauvy, Anne: 'La Fourche', 90 127 79268 85238 her book: Les Flammes de Pierre, 80279 86238 88238 81253 87227 Savenc, F.: 'The South Face of 82251 88221 Dhaulagiri', 88 181 Scotland: notes, 74 288 Sayan Mts: meet in, 75 164 new climbs, 80 275 Sayle, M.: 'Everest - a Reporter's winter climbs 1981-83, art. 89216 View'. 77 116 winter climbs 1985-86, art. 92 229 Scott, A.J.: obit. 87 261 GENERAL INDEX 51 Scott, D.: 'A big leaning wall - Cima Secreast, D.: Dvest in Photos', 75 59 his book: (with C. Frazier) 'Mount Asgard', 7885 Adventuring in the Andes, 'Changabang', 80 155 91252 (with D. Haston) 'The South Face Sefton, Mt: of Mt McKinley 1976', 82173 1st asc. by E face direct, 77 226 'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132 Seigneur, Y.: his book: A la (with M. English) 'The Anglo- Conquete de ['Impossible, 85253 Indian Gangotri Sanctuary Seligman, G.: death, 79279 expedition', 87 3 Selkirks: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239 'Multi Peak - Alpine Style', 9088 generally, art. 78 1 'Excursions & Climbs from the Sella Pass: crossed, 78 140 Karakoram Highway', 91 46 Sella, V.: his book: Dal Caucaso al his books: Big Wall Climbing, Himalaya, 88225 80250 catalogue of his photographs, (with A. McIntyre) The 89250 Shishapangma Expedition, Semyen: 91243 ref. to new map of High, 74 182 Scott, M.: 'The North by North-West Sentiers de Grande Randonnee, les: route on Du Toits Peak', 77 94 guide books, 78 268 'The Sword and others', 78 195 Sentilo, Pico: 'Toverkop (Witch's Head)', 7999 1st asc. by W face, 75 211 'At the eleventh hour', 805 Sentinel, the (NW Karakoram): 'The Cedarbergen', 81 128 asc., 76 167 'Events and Trends 1974-76 South Seoul: climbing near, 83 55 Africa', 82 227 Sesiajoch: crossings of, 82 256 'A Mountaineer's History of Table Setnesfjell: Mountain', 83 120 by new routes on SE face, 76 191 'Baffin Island adventure', 83 153 Shachiokun Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 'Modern hard climbing in South Shadbolt, L.G.: Africa', 85 182 obit. 79274; 80 302-3 'The South African Cordillera Shahgologh Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 Blanca Expedition 1982', 88 173 Shai-i-Anjuman: 1st asc., 74 195 'South African Rock Climbing', Shakhaur: 1st asc. by N buttress, 88203 75 175 'Africa 1983 - South African Rock Shani Snow Dome: attempt, 76 165 Climbing', 89 228 Sharp, P.: 'Some Swiss mountain 'South Africa 1985', 91 223 railways', 77 129 'South Africa 1986', 92 233 'Tunnels through the Alps', 84 122 Scott, R.: 'British Central Hindu Shawangunk (E coast of USA): Kush Expedition 1971', 77 170 climbs, 86 81 Scroggie, S.: collected poems: Shchurovsky, Pik: by N face, Give me the Hills, 90267 centenary climb, 76 114 Scull, R.: death, 78 204 Sheldon, J.H.: obit. 78290 Sea stacks: 79 47 Shepherd, E.: 'The Calanques', Sea-cliff climbing: 77185 in Cornwall, art. 87 67 'Montagne Sainte-Victoire', 80 189 generally, art. 83 191 'A first impression of Biokova', Searle, M.: 'Langtang Lirung South 81203 Face 1980', 88 106 Sheridan, G.: Secor, J.: his book: 'Across Zagros on skis', 83 102 Mexico's Volcanoes, 87258 'Some 4000 metre peaks of Secord, C.H.: obit. 86271 Southern Iran', 84 187 'A Winter Journey through the Western Himalaya', 87 167 52 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Sheridan, G.: Ski-ing: 'Yukon - a Winter Excursion', in the Western Himalaya, 87 167 91120 in Kashmir, 87 222 Sheridan, J.M.G.: in China, 88 29 'Winter Climbing in Lyngen', and Sherpas, 91 101 8067 Slatter, Enid M.: Sherlock Holmes, mountaineer: 'Mont Blanc Bi-centenary', 91 150 8399 Sleeman, C.M.: death, 77 296 Sherman, P.: 'Huascanin: the W obit. 78290 AfI~te 1969', 75 131 Sleeping-bags: paper, 76278 Sherpas: and ski-ing, art. 91 101 Sleeping-pad: new waterproof, Shiga I and II: ascs., 78 240 74323 Shimbun, A: (compiler) book: The Slovakia: climbing areas, 82 79 Magnificence of the Himalaya, Smith, C.D. & G.A: 84261 their book: The Armchair Shingeik Zorn II and III: Mountaineer, 74 376 1st ascs., 75 172 Smith, F.E.: obit. 88259 Shipton, E.E.: his book: That Smith, R.: 'Mountaineering in Untravelled World, 75 294 Iceland - a personal appraisal', 'Mount Burney', 80 1 86119 obit. 83271 his book (editor): The Winding his Six Mountain Travel Books, Trail, 87 254 91245 Smith, W.P. Haskett: his book: Shipton: in the steps of, art. Climbing in the British Isles, (in the Garhwal), 84 154 92264 Shirakawa, Y.: his books: Smythe, A.: 'Excursions to Bara Alps, 76106 Bangahal and Lahul', 78 179 Himalayas, 82264; 85253 Smythe, F.S.: Shisha Pangma: account of German books on, 81 180; 91 249 expedition to, 1980, 88244 Smythe, Nona: 'Francis Sydney Shispare: summit reached, 80 224 Smythe: mountain photographer Shivling: climbed, 80 240; 87 4 (1900-49)', 81 180 Sia Kangri: climbed, 80 152 Snailham, R.: his book: ill., 80 150 Sangay survived, 85251 Siachen: expedition to, 1985, art. Snellgrove, D.: his book: 91 19 Himalayan Pilgrimage, 89239 Sikkim: area notes, 82241 Snoswell, D.M.: 'The Sierra Nevada new climbs & notes, 83 240 de Santa Marta', 78 78 Silvretta Pass: crossed, 74 84 Snow-caves: in New Zealand, 74 79 Sinai: mountains of, 77 160; 80 145 Snow-crystals: note on, 79274 Siran I: 1st asc., 78 187 Snowdonia: despoilment of, 78 268 Siran II: asc., 78 186 SOderberg, E.A Bo: Sircar, J.: his book: The Himalayan 'Mountaineering in Sweden', 77 54 Handbook, 81 265; 85 254 'Haggsta', 77 187 'Oropolitics', 8974 Solar energy: giant furnace in the Sisne: attempt & accident on, 83 78 Pyrenees, 84 201 Ski-ing: Solari, Mary Elizabeth: obit. 92298 from Austria to France, 7483 Solimana, Nevado: history & 1st asc. extreme ski descents, 74 349; of highest summit, 76 244 75 31, 33, 38; 76 192; 85 218 Somervell, T.R.: obit. 81272 early, in Scotland, 76 279 Sondheimer, E.: 'Local knowledge is British Alpine traverse 1972, 78 13 important: How not to cross resorts in the Alps, 78 267 from Rhum to Skye', 88 77 mountaineering, 75 124; 8391, Editor of Alpine Journal, 91 298; 102; 85 176; 8720; 88 33,92; 929 90 193 GENERAL INDEX 53 Sondre Trolltind: 2nd asc. of Stelbox, D.: Hoibakk's chimney', 76 191 his book: (with C. Torrans) Rock Sonnier, G.: his book: Climbing in Ireland, 91 261 La Montagne et ['Homme, 76309 Step-cutting: early, 76 280; 80 277 Soray (Humantay): Stephen, L.: new route by S ridge, 74262 centenary tribute to, 77 1 Sosbun Glacier: explorations, 91 49 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 167 map, 91 50 Steuri, E.: South America: notes & new climbs: mountain guide, death, 77 297 81245 88208 Steven, c.R.: his books: The Central 83243 89224 Highlands, 74381 85228 90237 The Story of the Scottish Hills 86231 91218 81267 87224 92226 Stighorn: M.E.F. note, 92 239 1st asc. by SW buttress, 74 172 South Atrak Zorn: Stirling Range (W Australia): correct name of, 75 169 climbs in, 79 30 South Greenland: new climbs, Stobart, R.E.: obit. 85 267 80271 Stocken, C.M.: his book: Andalusian South Parbati Range: flowers and Countryside, 74 378 expedition to & ascs., 79 121 Stor Skagast0lstind: centenary climb, South Pembroke: 82233; 83 109-11 rock climbing hazards, 90 148 Strand magazine: mountains in, ill. 90 144-5 84144 South West Africa: Strath, Sir W.: obit. 81 274 events & trends 1974-76, 82232 Stretchers: motorised, 74 312 South West England: comparison of mountain rescue, new climbs, 80 273 74314 Soviet mountaineering: 80 89 Strutt, E.L.: his rescue of Austrian Space science: Emperor, 74343 recent developments, 83 252 Stubaierspitze: 1st asc., 79 17 Spain: area notes & new climbs, Stubbs, P.: 'Science Notes': 74 179; 87 216 1975 81 253; 1976 82 25; 1977 Spitzmeilen: asc., 74 84 83250 Spring, I.: Stuck, H.: his book: his book: (with H. Edwards) 100 The Ascent of , 84 257 Hikes in the Alps, 85252 Sturm, G.: his book: Stamps: covers & cachets from Erfolg am Kantsch, 82264; 84261 Nepal Himalaya, art. 85 110 Styles, S.: his books: Starkey, G.: obit. 80 301 Backpacking, a comprehensive guide Staunings Alps: art. 81 143 Backpacking in Alps and Pyrenees, Steck, A.: 82260 his book: (with S. Roper) Ascent, Sucai Zorn: asc., 74 203 86260 Siidpfalz: climbing area, 85 209 Steel, D.: death, 78204 Summers, G.: obit. 78292 Steele, Mt: by SE ridge, 74 242 Summerton, Capt. R.: obit. 81 270 Steele, P.: 'Pierre Vergez', 81 55 Sun Kosi river: his books: Two and two halves to jet-boat expedition to, 74 233 Bhutan, 76 307 Sunday Peak (Carstensz): Medical Care for Mountain 1st & solo asc. by N face, 78 193 Climbers, 82263 Sundt, E.: obit. 79 285 Stefan, W.: 'ChitraI1971', 78 183 Surgy: climbs at, 83 143 'Kaghan 1972', 78 185 Sutton, J.: 'Medical problems of 'Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974 Diary', high altitude', 78 153 80151 Swabian Alps: 80 211 'Huandoy - Chopicalqui', 82 165 54 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Swargarohini: 1st asc., 80 197 Tasker, 1.: 'Techniques and map, 80195 equipment for winter ice', 81 48 Swat Kohistan: ascs. in, 76218 'Small expeditions', 8221 Swat-Chitral watershed: 'Kangchenjunga North Ridge account of travel in, 82 161 1979', 8549 Swaziland: his books: Everest the Cruel Way, events & trends 1974-76, 82232 87259 Sweden: mountaineering in, 77 54 Savage Arena, 88230 map, 77 55 loss of, 88 263 Swift, H.: his book: The Trekkers obit. & port. 88 270 guide to the Himalaya and Tasman, Mt: ascs., 74 237 Karakoram 88246 ill. 8262 Swindin, Barbara: Tasmania: mountains, 86 17 'Perpetual second', 85 102 sea cliffs, 86 27 Swiss Alpine Club: book: Nos Carte5 map, 8618 Nationales, a history of map- Tasuit Tower: ill. 83 152 making in Switzerland, 8S 254 attempted, 83 153-8 Swiss National Tourist Office: book: Tatra: Sights and Scenes of Switzerland, visit to the Slovak High, 74 95 85253 British alpinists in the, 79 153; Switzerland: notes, 74 176-9 80286 1971 British ascs. in central, ill. art. 81 121 77 241 description of, 82 81 in the 18th century, art. 8657 ill. 82 81-2, 233 Sword, the (Patagonia): notes on traverse of main ridge, 1st asc., 78 196 82233 Taurus Mts: notes, 7S 151 TABLE MOUNTAIN: description of, 76 119 history of, 83 120-7; 85 182-9 Taweche: 1st & 2nd ascs. of Basa's ill. 83 120 Gully, 77 11 Tafelberg: 81 129 Tayapampa: 2nd asc., 74248 Tafonato, Capo: traversed, 74 180 Taylor, C.H.: Tah Ratum: 1st asc., 83 237 'Alpine Thunderstorms', 80 173 Tairono, Pico: asc., 7882 obit. 81 274 Tairraz, G. (fils): 'The Tairraz Taylor, E.E.T.: death, 77 296 family of Chamonix', 80 161 obit. 78293 Takahashi, A.: Taylor, 1.L.: obit. 84 265 'Manaslu West Wall 1971', 77 26 Taylor, R.: Takushi, Y.: his book: his book: The Breach, 91 246 Gurja Hima11969, 76 310 Techado Negro: 2nd asc., 74 274 Talbot, 1.0.: his book: Temple, 1.: Central Switzerland, 75 315 his book: (with A. Walker) Talefre, Aig. de: 1st asc., 84 207 Kirinyaga, 80 291 Tambillos, Nevado: Temple, P.: Indian remains on, 76 248 his book: Castles in the Air, 89249 Tan Hill Inn: 80 79 Tenerife: 89 174 Tangley, Lord: obit. 79286 Tenzing, Dawa: Tanner, Col. C.H.B.: Victorian obit. & port. 91 270 surveyor-artist, art. 83 12 Tenzing, Norgay: his book: After Tapes: breaking strain of, 80 278 Everest, 83 265 Tararua, Cerro: asc., 75 225 obit. 92287 Tiischhorn-Dom traverse: 85 106-7 Terijuay group: Tasermiut fjord: 74 284 climbing notes & map, 74 264 Tashi Lapcha La: crossed, 86 99 ill. 74 268-9 Terrordactyl: note, 76274 GENERAL INDEX 55 Teton, Grand: by N face, 77 157 Tiquimani, Cordillera Real: by Black Ice Couloir, 77 158 1st asc. of W ridge, 83245 Teves, M.C.: obit. 88256 Tirich Mir: 4th asc., 75 81, 165 Thamserku: 89 47 Japanese attempt from N, 75 166 W ridge, 89 189 asc. by Spanish expedition, 79199, Thank God glacier: 74 282 254; ill. 79 199, 200 Tharkot: attempts, 75 195 1st asc. listed, 89 186 art. 90 100; map, 90 101 book: Sette Anni Contra II Tirich, ill. following 90 104 history of mountaineering & Theobald, E.L.: obit. 90281 exploration in region, 84263 Theodulpass: history of, 75 87 Tirone, A.: Thesiger, W.: his book: Desert, his book: (with L. Bersezio) Mont Marsh and Mountain, 87 251 Blanc, 90266 Thexton, P.: obit. & port. 89249 Tobias, M.: Thompson, A.J.: his book: his book: (editor with H. Drasdo) Alps, 74 380 The Mountain Spirit, 85255 Thompson, B.: 'Two new routes in Tocclaraju, Nevado: asc., 7443 Romsdal: Kongen and Tofana di Mezzo, Pta Anna: 1st asc. Mongejura', 74150 by SW diedre (via Julian), 76202 Thompson, C.W.H.: obit. 75338 Tombazi, N.A.: obit. 92296 Thompson, Silvanus: alpine painter, T0nsberg, H.: obit. 92 302 art. 81 116 Torasan: climbed, 86 162 Thomson, Sir L.: obit. 83 273 Toro, Colle el: 1st crossing, 75 4 Thornhill, P.: Toro, El: attempt by W face, 76 143 'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165 Torrans, C.: Thorpe, T.A.: obit. 89258 his book: (with D. Stelfox) Rock Three Peaks yacht race: 86 236 Climbing in Ireland, 91 261 Thui I & II: correct hts. of, 74 216; : 86 172 76216 Torre, Cerro: cancellation of French Thui II: 1958 expedition, 74274 attempt from Shetor glacier, Torre di Brenta: 1st asc., 87 162 75179 Torrone Peaks (Bregaglia): climbed, 84 58 1st ascs., 87 167 ill. 8459, 62; map, 8460 Tortolas, Cerro: discovery of Indian Thunderstorms & lightning: remains on, 74 273 behaviour in, 80 174, 183 Totem Pole, Monument Valley: Tibet: exploration in, 8784-6 8413 table of mountains, 87 97-9 Toubkal massif: topography, art. 91 84; map, 91 85 new ascs., 75 148; 76 204 asc. of Tibet's highest peak, art. Tour, Col du: crossed, 7490 92104 Toverkop: history of, 7999 Tieing-on: standardized method of, Town, J.: 'Back in the USSR', for mountain centres, 74338 86126 Tierra del Fuego: expeditions to, 'Ararat Revisited', 89 145 85141 'In the Altai', 90 47 maps, 85 140, 143 Towne, F.: mountain painter, 85 38 Tilman, H.W.: his books: Ice with Townshend, E.V.: death, 75285 Everything, 81263 obit. 76336 Triumph & Tribulation, 83263 Trango: attempt, 8145; ill. 81 46 selected writings: Adventures art. 82 184 under Sail, 88 236 climbed, 82 184, 237 The Seven Mountain Travel main tower, 1st asc., 83 237 Books, 89 238 Trans-Alai Pamir: a tribute, 84 132 Polish expedition to, 75 162 new climbs, 80 263 56 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Transcending: Turin CA.!.: 'Climbs near Turin - in Devon & Cornwall, 79 145 Denti di Cumiana', 87 137 Transvaal: Turkey: new climbs, 80 263 events & trends 1974-76, 82232 accident & rescue in, 86 165 Tremonti, M.: 'The first ascent of mountaineering in, 92 140-5 Parvati Peak, Kulu 1968', 7553 Turmelle, R.: Trevanian: his book: 'A mile in the sky', 8734 The Eiger Sanction, 80 291 Turnbull, R.: 'Northern Norway - a Triglav: ill. 82 94 personal view', 87 46 Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 74 175 Turner, J.M.W.: Alpine painter, Trisul: ascs., 74229; 76226 ill. arts. 84 31; 8541 1st asc. of S face, 83 238 Turner, L.: his book: (with J. Ash) Japanese expedition to, 85 193 The Golden Hordes, 82261 map, 85195 T.V.: climbing films on, 86256 Tritton, N.P.: : by-ways of South, 74 343 'The Ascent of Thui II', 84 58 Tyson, Diana: 'Fortunat Enderlin - Trivor: 1st asc. listed, 89 185 letters to a Client', 90 201 Trollope, A.: mention of Alpine 'Climbing in the Swiss Alps 1893', Club in his novel Can you 92176 Forgive her, 74342 Tyson, J.: Trollryggen: 'Return to Kanjiroba', 75 114 ascs. of E pillar, 74 172 'Exploring Bhutan's North-West', by Rimmon route, 76 190 83183 by French route, 76 191 Tyssen-Gee, R.: obit. 89 271 winter asc. of N face, 81 172 Trolltind wall: UCCELLO, PIZZO D': asc., 78 129 'Archwall' 1st asc., 78233 Udren Zorn: 1st asc. of Speak, Trono Blanco (Patagonia): 74200 1st asc., 75 236 asc. from W, 77 246 Truuli Peak (Kenai Range): 1st asc. of Central peak, 83 237 1st asc., 74243 Uganda: new climbs, 80260 Tscherner, Dr von: obit. 90289 Uhrig, Dr J.: (with Dr P. Dawson) Tuchal: ski asc., 75 157 'Sherpas & Sickness', 89 80 Tuckett Hut, Dauphine: U.LA.A.: meeting of Commission re-opening as museum, 92 317 de Material de Securite, 74316 Tufnell, L.: his book: 1968 Assembly, 74359 Glacier Hazards, 90265 election of new President, 74 360 Tukucha (Tukche): meeting in Prague, 75290 1st authorised asc., 75 197 meet of young alpinists in asc. of W peak, 76 229 Belgium, 75 290 early ascs., 79 191 notes, 76 297 attempt, 79 194; ill. 79 193 standard for climbing equipment, Tullis, Julie: 85236 mentioned in art., 89 18 50th Anniversary Celebrations, (with K. Diemberger) 'A Sortie on 8855 Broad Peak', 90 54 book: De Chamonix a Kathmandu her book: Clouds from Both Sides, (the first 50 years of 92268 U.I.A.A.) 88247 Tunnels, in the Alps: art. 84 122 Ullman, J.R.: his book: note, 86247 And not to Yield, 76310 Tunuyan Valley (Andes): Ulugh Muztagh: Tibet's highest peak ascs. in, 75 223 ascended, 92 104 Tunzelmann, von, N.: 'Recent New Underhill, Miriam: Zealand Developments', 74 71 climbing career, 82 112-3; 83 81 Tupungato: asc., 74 273 obit. 82272 GENERAL INDEX 57 Underhill, R.L.M.: obit. 89266 Venables, S.: : new climbs & notes: 'West of the Baltoro, a Personal 83242; 84235; 85 227; 86 230 Appraisal', 88194 University reading parties: 80 285 'Kishtwar-Shivling', 89 30 Unsoeld, Nanda Devi: death, 82239 'Finsteraarhorn, a Winter Unsoeld, W.: obit. 85268 Expedition', 89 129 Unsworth, W.: his books: 'India 1983. The Indian The Book of Rock Climbing, Himalaya - An Historic 74 370 Appraisal', 89 208 North Face, the second conquest of 'Autumn in and Naltar', the Alps, 75309 9064 Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering, (with D. Wilkinson) 'Siachen 81 266; 83 264 Expedition 1985', 91 19 Everest, 87245 his book: Painted Mountains, (editor) Peaks, Passes and 92255 Glaciers, 87251 Venezuela: This Climbing Game, 90277 triennial report 1971-73, 79228 Classic Walks of the World, events & trends 1974-76, 82220 91262 new climbs, 84237 Savage Snows. The Story of Mont the Sierra Nevada de Merida, art. Blanc, 92 260 92 20 Unwin, D.J.: his book: Mountain Ventoux, Mt: art. 83128-32 Weather for Climbers, 84260 Venus: surface topography, 87229 Urgunt (Urgend): Verdon Gorge: climbing in, 83234 2nd asc. by Swiss route, 75 178 Veron, G.: his book: Haute Urubamba, Cordillera: Randonm?e Pyrem?enne, 80291 Irish expedition to, 74262 Verte, Aig.: ski descent of Whymper ascs. in, 76 244; 77 253 Couloir, 74 349 Urus, Nevado: asc., 7443 Veyret, P. & G.: their book: Atlas et Ushko Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203 Geographie de la France Uzum Brakk (Conway's Ogre): Moderne - Les Alpes Francais, attempt, 86 191 86 260 Vibrams: origin of, 74 324; 75 274 VAILL, E.E.: Viereselgrat: 87 15, 64 'Mountaineering in China', 90 23 Vignemale: 80 135 Valais: new climbs, 87 212 Vilcabamba, Cordillera de: Valette, L.G.: 'The phenomenon of NZ expedition to Pumasillo area, 14th July on the Cervin', 85 97 74257 Valla, F.: ascs. in, 74 260; 76 243; 78 83 his book: (with J-P Zuanon) Vilcanota, Cordillera de: Pamir, 82262 ascs. in, 75 219; 76 245; 77 253 Vallepiana, Count U. di: obit. Villar, R.: 'Everest North Face- 84270 a Doctor's View', 90 110 Valuga: asc., 75 124 Viso, Monte: 1st asc. from NE, Vancouver, Mt: 86213 asc. of S peak by SW ridge, 74 242 Vogler"R.: his book: Vatna J6kull: Les Etats Unis, 90 277 1st crossing 1875, 80 234 Volcanic eruptions: ski-touring possibilities, 86 122 forecasting of, 84 247 Vaud: outcrops in, art. 84 141 Vosges: description of & climbs in, Venables, Ann: 79149 'Ski-touring at fifty', 88 92 Vychodny Vysoka: traversed, 74 100 Venables, S.: 'Some climbs in Peru and Bolivia', 88 44 WADDINGTON, MT: 1st winter asc., 75 207 58 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Wade, H.W.R.: Warren, c.: 'A visit to Japan', 81 59 'A Whymper Pilgrimage', 84 175 Wadi Rum: mountains in Jordan, 'An Alpine Bibliographical art. 91109 Curiosity', 89 141 Wainwright, A.W.: his book Fell 'The Children's Corner in the AC Walking with Wainwright, 90275 Library', 91 145 Wakhan Gol: 1st ascs. around, (with P. Bicknell) 'Homage to 76215 J.M.W. Turner', 91161 art. & climbing possibilities, 84 36 Washington, Mt: Wala, J.: 'Routes leading to Pik climbing history, art. 87 34 Kommunizma', 78 173 Watanabe, H.: death, 76229 Wales: notes, 74295; 80274 Water: drinking, on expeditions, Welsh Rock, book on history of 74326 Welsh rock-climbing, 92257 Waterberg Mts: ascs. in, 75 71 Wales, Prince of, H.R.H.: his book: , climbing on frozen: The Old man of Lochnagar, 8360,242 88 243 Waterman, J.: his book: Walker, J.P.: death, 75285 Surviving Denali, 90 266 obit. 76337 Watson, A.: (with others) his book: Walker, Lucy: The Cairngorms, 74381 climbing career, 81 93-4 Watson, Sir N., Bt: obit. 89272 Walker Spur: Watts, N.H.L.: obit. 75339 art. 'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165 Weber, K.: death, 79279 Walkers' Guidebooks: obit. & port. 80 303 The Munros, 92256 Webster, E.: The High Mountains of Britain and 'North American Assortment', Ireland, 92 256 90 153 Walters, B.: his book: Wegener, A.: meteorologist, Piste Again, 90 264 8043, 62 Waltham, A.C.: his book: Weibel, M.: his book: Die The World of Caves, 86259 Mineralien der Schweiz, 85252 Walton, A.: Weissfluh: ski descent, 75 125 his book: (with J. Russell) Turner Welch, Ann: her book: Accidents in Switzerland, 83 260 happen - Anticipation, Avoidance, Wangyal's Peak (Bara Bangahal): Survival, 84 260 1st asc., 78 180 Wenck, R.: death, 75347 ascended, 7922, 27 West Irian (New Guinea): Wannehorn, Gross: asc., 75 128 notes, 82241 Ward, E.D.: obit. 88256 Western Cape: Ward, M.: 'Man and the Mountain events & trends 1974-76, 82 227 environment', 74 133 Westmacott, Sally: 'Frost-bite', 76 70 'The Obsessional Journey', 90 193 his books: In this Short Span, Westmorland, Lt.Col. H.: obit. 78270 Mountain Medicine, 90 291 81231 Wetterhorn: an asc. in 1884, 86 118 'Mountain literature - then and an early winter asc., 86 212 now',8115 Whalley, E.: Canadian Arctic & 'Exercise oedema & mountain Alaska, notes: 89221; 91215; sickness', 85 168 92223 'The Kongur Massif in Southern Wheaton, A.: 'Brammah 1978', Xinjiang', 86 7 84 103 'Science on Mount Kongur', 87 65 'The British Kishtwar Himalayan 'The Eastern Himalaya', 90 10 expedition 1979', 86 181 Ward-Drummond, E.: 'Out of the Whillans, D.: quoted, 86205 midday sun: the Lost Arrow obit. & port. 91 273 Chimney', 74 92 GENERAL INDEX 59 Whillans box: construction & uses Wilson, K.: his books: of, 74 324; 76 278 86 253 Whitehouse, Millicent: obit. 90 285 (compiler with R. Gilbert) Classic Whiteley, E.J.: obit. 91281 Walks, 88 234 Whittow, J.: his book: Disasters - (with D. Alcock & J. Barry) Cold the Anatomy of Environmental Climbs, 89 244 Hazards, 86257 Wilson, M.H.: obit. 92293 Whymper: his 'crosses in the sky' Wilton, A.: his book: William Pars. art. 8597 Journey through the Alps, 85255 a pilgrimage, art. 84 175 Wind chill: 86 139 Whyte, J.S.: Wind River Range: 1st ascs., 83 217 'The Ladder of Life', 86 110 Winds: Wiedman, M.: poem 'Ultima Thule effect in mountains, art. 81 81 Everest', 92 98 Winkler, J.: Wielicki, K.: 'Broad Peak climbed in his book: (with W. Pause) 100 one day', 90 61 Sealate Estreme, 85 253 Wiesbachhorn, Gross: Winter, J.: 'A field study of acute ski descent of NW face, 75 34 mountain sickness', 81217 Wife Peak (Hindu Kush): Winter climbing: in 1971-72, 788 1st asc., 75 166 in New Zealand, 78244 Wilberforce, W.: his diary: Journey Winter Sports statistics: 83 257 to the Lake District from Wiren, S.A.: death, 77 272 Cambridge 1979, 90 270 Wojcik, W.A.: his book: Wierchy - Wilberforce Smith, B.: The Jubilee Issue, 91 251 'Bernina Bummel', 78 139 Wolf, J.: his book: Reka Jmenem Wilderness areas: in Britain, 79 274 Cervanky (River of Dawn), 82264 : ski asc., 75 127 Wolfe, J.: Wilkinson, D.: (with S. Venables) his book: (with B. Dominick) A 'Siachen Expedition 1985', 9119 Climbers Guide to Joshua Tree Williams, Cicely: her book: Women NM, 83242 on the Rope, 79251 Women: 'The Feminine Share in Mountain highest summits climbed by, Adventure', 81 90; 82 103; 75173 8379 Women climbers: obit. 91285 arts. 81 90; 82 103; 83 79 Williams, H.: obit. 77 293 Woodgate, Amy: death, 74 396 Williams, P.: his book: Wookey Hole: diving in, 83 172 Snowdonia Rock Climbs, 88 250 Worthington, W.G.: obit. 88256 Williams, R.: obits. 85 268; 86 271 Wroe, Marjory: 'With young folks Willis, Phyllida: 'Ti}e Appalachian on the Haute Route', 87 20 Trail Pt. 2', 88 118 Wroe, S.: his book: Wilmott, A.: death, 78 264, 281 Rock Climbing, 85 255 Wilson, Jim: his book: Aorangi: the Wyllie, P.J.: his book: The Way the story of Mount Cook, 74 374 Earth works - an introduction to Wilson, John: 'A long Haute Route the New Global Geology and its 1968: from Austria to France on Revolutionary Development, Ski', 7483 82263 his book: (with D. Hope) Wye Wyn-Harris, Sir P.: Valley, 83 248 obit. & port. 87 270 Wilson, K.: his books: Wyss-Dunant, Dr. E.: obit. 89262 Hard Rock, 80 249 Classic Rock, 84 257 YAKUSHI, Y.: 'Gurja Himal: first (editor) Games Climbers Play, ascent 1969', 75 17 85248 (with R. Gilbert) The Big Walks, 60 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Yalung Kang: 1st asc., 8025 ZAGROS MOUNTAINS: new route, 81 242 ski-ing in, 83 102 1973 Kyoto University Expedition, pipeline, 86241 82264 Zanskar: Yamamoto Ryozo: 'First Ascent of a journey through, art. 88 139 Churen Himal', 77 105 Zapelli, C.: his book: Sulle Yamnuska: climbs on, 75 104 Montagne degli Incas, 86255 Yarigatake: 8161-2 Zawada, A.: his book (with others): Yeld, G.: Editor of A.J., 80120-7 Gipfelsturm in Karakorum, Yerupaja: 1st asc. of N summit, 84261 7411 'Noshaq in winter', 79 11 main & S summits ascended, 'Winter at 8,250 metres', Polish 7412, 13 expedition to Lhotse 1974, traverse, 74 13, 14 8228 1st asc. & descent by NE face, 'Mount Everest, the first winter 7415 ascent', 89 50 1st asc. by a woman, 74 12 Zermatt: centenary of the English climbing history, 74253 Church, 75 279 1st asc. by E ridge, 75 212 development of, 81 262-3 1st asc. by S face, 83 243 Zhang, R.: his book: Yerupaja Chico: Mount Qomolangma - the highest 1st asc. by SW face, 75 212 in the world, 89 250 Yeti: Zocca, Piz: 1st asc. of WSW reports, 80 101; 83256; 84254 antecima by ESE ridge, 74 177 Yomemoto, T.: death, 76229 art. 75 48-52 Yorkshire: new climbs, 80275 Zoology: see Science Notes Yosemite: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239; Zuanon, J.-P.: 'An invitation to 78 247; 80237 Mont Aiguille', 80 83 climbing, arts. 74 92, 125 'The Chartreuse', 82 120 Yoshizawa, 1.: his book: (with F. Valla) Pamir, 'Mountaineering in Japan', 79128 82262 Young, J. & G.W.: Zululand: 87 111-13 'Norwegian Centenary', 83 109 Zurcher, A.: obit. & port. 85269 Yugoslavia: see Jugoslavia Yukon: climbing history, 83 25-8 new climbs, 85 226 a winter excursion, art. with photos, 91 120 Yukon river: descent of, 74 244 GENERAL INDEX 61 SPECIAL DISTRICTS

A list of articles and maps (but not Regional or Area notes) which describe mountain areas and expeditions, explorations or climbs in them.

EUROPE

1. British Isles Sea Stacks. By J.S. Cleare, 7947 Transcending in Devon and Cornwall. By H. Sales, 79 145 Moorland Marathons. By P. Brockbank, 8071 From Zero to Astronomy. By A. Fyffe, 80185 In Quest of the Ultimate. By F. Rogerson, 81 40 The Napes Pinnacle. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8153 Cragwork in Cumberland. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8242 Mountaineering in Winter. Some expeditions in the Lake District. By H.A. Gwynne, 84 177 Mountaineering in Ireland. By J.P.O'F. Lynam, 85 162 Avalanche on Ben Nevis. By J. King, 86 146 Games in a private world. (Sea cliff climbing in Cornwall) By M. Fowler, 87 67 Loc?1 Knowledge is Important. How not to cross from Rhum to Skye. By E. Sondheimer, 88 77 Cold Climbing in Cymru. By J. Barry, 89165 South Pembroke Hazards. By R. Brown, 90 148 Winter Climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh. By K. Crocket, 91 129 Maps: The Peak and South Pennines, 80 70

2. France Corsica. By T. Connor, 78 144 Mountain landscape - the Jura. By E. Pyatt & M. Brandt, 78 146 Mountain landscape - the Vosges. By E. Pyatt & J. Russell, 79149 An invitation to Mont AiguilIe. By J.-P. Zuanon, 8083 Montagne Saint-Victoire. By E. Shepherd, 80 189 The Chartreuse. By J.-P. Zuanon, 82 120 Mont Ventoux. By M. Craig, 83 128 The Calanques. By A. Lucchesi, 85 21 Corsica mountains. By R.G. Collomb, 87 100 Maps: The Calanques, 85 24-5 Corsica, 87 101 The Cinto Massif, 87 102

3. Scandinavia Two new routes in Romsdal: Kongen and Mongejura. By B. Thompson, 74150 Mountaineering in Sweden. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 54 Winter Climbing in Lyngen. By J.M.G. Sheridan, 8067 Trollryggen North Face in Winter. By T. Piotrowski, 81172 Scandinavian Ski trave'rse. By A. Blackshaw, 8390 Norwegian Centenary. By J. & G. Winthrop Young, 83 109 62 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Northern Norway - a personal view. By R. Turnbull, 8746 Maps: Scandinavian Ski traverse, 83 90 North Norway, 8746

4. Caucasus British-Soviet Caucasus Expedition. By H. McInnes, 76 111 Back in the USSR. By J. Town, 86 126 The International Mountaineering Camp 1984. By D.J. Broadhead, 92 122 The British Caucasus Expedition 1986. By A.V. Saunders, 92 129

5. Tatras A flying visit to the Slovak High Tatra. By 1. Clough, 74 95 British Alpinists in the Tatra. By A. Kus, 79 153 The Tatra Mountains. By M. Brniak, 81 119 6. Turkey The Taurus Mountains. By H. Elwood, 76 119 Turkey 1980. Torasan, Kackar and Mountain Rescue. By S. Nowill, 86 159 Ararat Revisited. By J. Town, 89 145 Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 141 Maps: Taurus Mountains, 76 119 7. The Pyrenees and Spain The National Park of the Western Pyrenees. By J.M. Russell, 80 129 Pierre Vergez. By P. Steele, 81 55 A progress in Pyreneisme. By K. Reynolds, 84 21 Cirques and canons of the Pyrenees. By J.G.R. Harding, 86 71 The Picos de Europa. By L.c. Baume, 86 171 Across the High Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 88 145 Not the Accursed Mountain. By K. Reynolds, 89 84 Twenty-four hours in Trevelez. By L. Griffin, 89 116 A very Proper Enthusiasm. By K. Reynolds, 90 166 Short of the Folding Stuff. By T. Price, 91 183 Packe of the Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 92 156 Maps: The National Park of the Western Pyrenees, 80 138 Sierra Nevada, 89 119 8. Other Districts The 1971 eruption of . By B. Booth, 7766 Pindos Range: Timfi Massif. By R. Fedden, 78 25 In Terra de Romagne. By A. Heppenstall, 78 121 Recent activity on Mount Etna. By B. Booth, 78 137 A first impression of Biokova. By E. Shepherd, 81 203 Mountains and Rocks in Czechoslovakia. By J. Jurak, 8273 The Julian Alps - Kugy's Kingdom. By H. Brown, 82 95 Grigna. By L. Gasparini & F. Della Beffa, 83 106 The Circuit of Andorra. By T.A.H. Peacocke, 83 160 Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 136 Pic Ruivo Interlude (Madeira). By A. Husbands, 92 163 The British, Kugy and Western Slovenia. By K. Rozman, 92 182 GENERAL INDEX 63 Maps: Italy - major mountain groups, 78 122 Gran Sasso, 78 125 Mount Etna, 78 138

Climbers Playgrounds - Europe Grigna. By J. Cleare, 76 169 Chalk Climbing in France. By E. Pyatt, 76 173 Saussois. By C. Davies, 77 183 The Calanques. By E. Shepherd, 77 185 Haggsta. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 187 Outcrop Climbing from Rome. By A. Heppenstall, 77 188 Sandstone rocks in Czechoslovakia. By K. Hetman, 78 116 North-Western France. By E. Pyatt, 78 117 Practice Crags in Scandinavia. By R. Barley, 78 119 The Dentelles de Montmirail. By E. Pyatt, 79 207 Peilstein - A well-known Viennese training mountain. By H. Peterka, 79 208 Montserrat. By C. Mont, 79 210 Climbing in the Swabian Alps in SW Germany. By W. Frey, 80211 Burgundy - The Cote d'Or. By E. Pyatt, 80 213 Climbing on the Saleve. By P. Bossus, 80214 Languedoc Limestone. By C. Mont, 80218 The Caroux. By C. Mont, 81 212 Training grounds of Poland. By M. Brniak, 81 213 Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux-Claires. By T. Connor, 81215 The Valleys of the Creuse and the Anglin. By G. Richard, 81 217 The Palava Rocks. By J. Jurak, 82 143 The Rocher Saint-Julien. By M. Craig, 82 144 La Pedriza del Manzanares. By M. Redondo de la Puz, 82 145 The Rocks of the Aveyron Gorge. By T. Connor, 82 147 Climbing in the Franconian Jura in South Germany. By R. Buchner, 83 139 Climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge (East Germany). By D. Hasse, 83140 The rocks at Surgy (Nievre, France). By G. Richard, 83 143 Sea Cliff Climbing at Gaeta. By G. Battimelli, 84 139 Outcrops in Vaud. By C. Mont, 84 141 Climbing in the Black Forest. By J. Schneider, 84 142 Fontainebleau. By C. Mont, 85 208 Sudpfalz (South Palatinate). By J. Schneider, 85209 Climbs near Turin. (1) Rocca Sbarua. By CAI-Turin, 86 152 Nordeifel. By J. Schneider, 86 153 Hauteroche. By M. Rebiffe, 86 157 More rocks in Central France. By C. Mont, 87 135 Climbs near Turin. (2) Denti di Cumiana. By CAI-Turin, 87 137 Rotenfels. By J. Schneider, 87 139 The Bruchhauser Steine. By J. Schneider, 88 130 Climbs in Champagne: Vertus. By M. Rebiffe, 88 133 Freyr. By C. Mont, 88 134

Alps - general Italian Climbing between the Wars. By R. Cassin, 77 149 A married man's Alpine holiday. By R. Brooke, 81196 Summers in and around the Swiss Prealps. By C. Kemp, 84 92 Perpetual second. By B. Swindin, 85 102 A grand high level route. By D.B. Duffield, 8741 64 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 An Introduction to Mountains. By J. Gibson, 91 179 The Big Triple Tick or Scrambles in the Nordwands. By P. Thornhill, 92 165

Eastern Alps Climbs in the Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia. By N. Rogers, 7548 Return to the Alps. By 1. Howell, 76 105 Piz Badile for the Over-seventies. By W. Kirstein, 77 48 Once again, Engadine and Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 78 133 The : its climbs and pioneers. By E. Roberts, 82 189 Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 82 197 Too much snow on Piz Gliischaint. By W. Kirstein, 83 178 Albigna Valley 1978. By W. Kirstein, 84183 Cacciabella. By W. Kirstein, 85 199 The Biancograt. By M. Baldwin, 89 138 Fuorikante. By K. Neal, 90 145 The Oberreintal. By 1. Chrystal, 91 122

Mont Blanc Brenva ice. By D. Gray, 74 123 New route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle. By E. Chrobak, 7595 Pointe Helene. By E. Chrobak, 77 61 Winter Climbing III the Mont Blanc Massif. By H. Agresti, 77 197 The North face of Les Courtes. By 1. Rowe, 7823 Les Courtes solo. By M. Coleman, 80 141 Grands Charmoz in Winter. By R. Collister, 8165 A Day on the North ridge of the Peigne. By C.V. Beechey, 82 186 Mont Blanc again after 28 years. By C. Beechey, 85 17 Winter Climbing on the Peigne, Scottish Style. By A. Nisbet, 89 134

Pennine Alps The Theodulpass: a history. By B. Harriss, 7587 The Monte Moro Pass and the Col d'Herens. By B. Harris, 76 127 Travel and Trade in the Pennine Alps. By B. Harriss, 77 175 Memories of Arolla and Fafler Alp. By F.G. Irving, 86 188 The Dent Blanche. By M. Craig, 87 9

Bernese Alps Suddenly all Hell Broke loose (Eigerwand). By B. Nally, 7467 Specialists on the Eiger. Epicures on the Lauper route. By B.W.J. Griffiths, 77139 Filming on the Nordwand. By L. Dickinson, 77 144 Lauterbrunnen Breithorn - North face. By R. Barton, 79 71 One and a half in the Alps. By D. Challis, 79203 Memories of a first season. By L.J.G. Preston, 8730 First ascent of the Galenstock (1845). By E. Desor, 87 58 A Long Day on the Schreckhorn. By L.J.G. Preston, 88 170 Finsteraarhorn. A Winter Expedition. By S. Venables, 89 129 Dear Dad. (Eigerwand) By P. Mould, 90 140 Maps: Concordiaplatz, Aletschgletscher & Finsteraarhorn, 89 130

Dolomites The North face of Monte Agner. By M. Mortimer, 7436 GENERAL INDEX 65 A big leaning wall - Cima Ovest in photos. By D. Scott, 75 59 Western Alps Mountains of paradise. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 133 Ten Dauphine ice climbs. By L. Griffin & J. Brailsford, 87 180 Ski-ing in the Alps A long Haute Route 1968. By J. Wilson, 74 83 Some extreme ski runs. By K. Lapuch, 75 31 Sixty years off-piste: reflections of a ski-mountaineer. By W. Kirstein, 75 124 Ski Descent of Mont Blanc. By D.St.J. Brightman, 77 136 British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972. By P. Cliff, 78 13 Bernina Bummel. By B. Wilberforce Smith, 78 139 Ski-mountaineering in the Eastern Alps. By G. Freeman, 85176 With young folks on the Haute Route. By M. Wroe, 87 20 A Winter Diary 1925-26. By J.A.H. Bell, 8837 Ski touring at Fifty. By A. Venables, 8892 The Obsessional Journey. By S. Westmacott, 90 193 NORTH AMERICA 1. Alaska and Yukon Southern Logan Mountains 1968. By E. Maden, 74 108 The South face of Mount Dan Beard (3127m) Alaska. By R. O'Donovan, 80 63 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon. By K. Andrasko & T. Moore, 8119 The South Face of Mount McKinley 1976. By D. Scott & D. Haston, 82 173 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUI. By T. Moore & K. Andrasko, 8323 The North Face of Mount Deborah. By C. Macquarie, 8351 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUll. By K. Andrasko & T. Moore, 8464 Yukon - A Winter Excursion. By Guy Sheridan, 91 120 Hunter's South Ridge - Alpine Style. By S. Richardson, 92 10 On the Junean Ice-Field. By E.P. Leahy, 92 192 Maps: Alaska and the Yukon, 81 20 Mount Hunter, 92 11 Junean Ice-field, 92 193 2. Canada (except Yukon) Calgary Climber. By B. Greenwood, 75 101 Nelson's Mountains. 1. Thomas Douglas. By W.L. Putnam, 78 1 Nelson's Mountains. 2. Goodwin Purcell. By W.L. Putnam, 79 34 The Chief. By R. Culbert, 80 105

3. Other districts Out of the mid-day sun - the Lost Arrow Chimney. By E. Ward-Drummond, 7492 Vertical Desert: the nose of El Capitan. By M. Burke, 74 125 The Salathe Wall. By C. Jones, 7525 North face of the and Black Ice Couloir. By J. Noble, 77 157 El Gran Trono Blanco. By I. Agresti, 82 99 66 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Sandstone towers of the American south-west Desert. By E. BjllJrnstad, 84 10 The profit of impurism - the Shawangunk scene. By M. Robinson, 86 81 A mile in the sky. By R. Turnelle, 8734 The Colorado Plateau. By P. Hillman, 87 121 The Appalachian Trail Pt. 1. By P. Willis, 87 197 The Appalachian Trail Pt. 2. By P. Willis, 88 118 North American Assortment. By E. Webster, 90 153 SOUTH AMERICA

I. Andes Yerupaja traverse: the New Zealand expedition. By D. Adcock, 747 The Amazon face of Yerupaja: the British American expedition. By C. Jones, 7415 A Visit to the Ishinca Valley, Cordillera Blanca, 1968. By W. Amstutz, 74 39 The West face of Jirishanca 1969. By R. Cassin, 75 1 Nevado Chopicalqui, South East Ridge. By M. Clarbrough, 75 13 Huascanin: the West arc~te1969. By P. Sherman, 75 131 El Toro. By J.V. Anthoine, 76 143 Cordillera Carabaya Expedition 1971. By K. Dilworth, 77211 The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. By D.M. Snoswell, 7878 Peru - Cordillera Vileabamba 1971. By R. Fedden, 78 83 Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition 1972. By P. Bunting, 78201 Huascanin, East face diretissima. By E. Koblmiiller, 7939 The unconquered south face of Huandoy. By R. Schipper, 79 139 Expedition to the Millpo Group (Peru). By L. Gaetani, 81 63 Huandoy Chopicalqui. By W. Stefan, 82 165 The Central Cordillera of Colombia. By E. Echevarria, 82 49 The Cordillera Blanca of Peru as a National Park. By E. Echevarria, 85 200 Sangay survived - the first time. By T. Moore, 8628 Some Climbs in Peru and Bolivia. By S. Venables, 8844 Legends of the High Andes. By E. Echevarria, 88 85 The South-West Ridge of Huascanin Sur. By M. Harber, 88 157 The Colombian Andes, Nevado del Huila-Pico la Cresta. By C.M. Heath, 88161 The South African Cordillera Blanca Expedition 1982. By M. Scott, 88 173 Northern Andean Butterflies - Search and Research. By M. Adams, 8990 Gwent Andean Expedition 1983. By M. Rosser, 89 161 Bolivia's Royal Range. By P. Drummond, 90172 Andes Adventure. By S. Richardson, 90 184 Cordillera Apolobamba - the First Ascent of Palomani Tranca. By J. Curran, 91135 The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By L. Griffin, 92 20 Saleantay: South West Face. By P. Leeming, 9227 Three Excursions in the Peruvian Cordilleras. By R. Payne, 92 37 A Calling. By J. Gore, 9243 Early British Ascents in the Andes (1831-1946). By E. Echevarria, 9261 The British Andean Climbing Expedition 1986. By J. Nixon, 9267 Maps: Colombia, 82 50; 89 96 Huascanin Sur, 88 159 Nevado del Huila - Pico la Cresta, 88 163 Sierra Nevada de Merida, 92 21 Saleantay, Cordillera Vileabamba, 92 28 GENERAL INDEX 67

2. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Fitzroy 1968. By C. Jones, 74 131 The Sword and others. By M. Scott, 78 195 Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del Norte. By Capt. C.H. Agnew, 79 43 Patagonian Ice-Cap 1971-72. By Members of the Johchi University A.C., 79237 Mount Burney. By E. Shipton, 80 1 At the eleventh hour (the first ascent of the longest rock climb in the world). By M. Scott, 80 5 Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, Patagonia. By B. Campbell-Kelly, 81191 Tierra del Fuego 1979. By J. Earle, 85 141 The East Ridge of San Lorenzo, Patagonia. By P. Fatti, 92 48 Beyond Patagonia. By I. Peters, 92 54 Maps: Tierra del Fuego, 85 140 Patagonian Ice Cap, 79239 3. Other (South American) districts The Mummer - Cordillera del Paine, Chile. By D. Cheesmond, 84117 Aconcagua South Face. By I. Komprej, 89 157 Puna de Atacama, Chile. By S. Fraser, 90 177 Maps: Puna de Atacama; OJos del Salado, 90 178

ANTARCTIC AND ARCTIC, GREENLAND & ICELAND 1. Greenland Majorteqe (Peak BOOm) 1974. By R.D. Hoare, 80203 Traverse of the Staunings Alps. By K.J. Miller, 81143 Blubber and Boats. By R. Hoare, 89 104 Greenland: The Experience. By M. Sales, 92 189 Maps: Parts of Greenland, 89 105, 106 2. Iceland Mountaineering in Iceland - a personal appraisal. By R. Smith, 86 119 Failure on Forel. By D. Fordham & R. Hoare, 90 161 Maps: Iceland, 86 120 3. Arctic Mount Asgard. By D. Scott, 78 85 The Uttermost North. By M. Banks, 79 174 Baffin Island adventure. By M. Scott, 83153 To the Place of Graves. By D. Fordham, 89 108 4. Antarctic Elephant Island. By C.H. Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., 77 204 The Exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula. By S. Fraser, 89 97 Joint Services Expedition to Brabant Island, Antarctica. By J. Kimbrey, 91139 Maps: Elephant Island, 77 207 Antarctic Peninsula, 89 100 68 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 AFRICA 1. Central and South Some new routes in South Africa 1969. By R. Barley, 75 71 Mawenzi - a complete traverse from South to North. By F. Lortscher, 76 138 After Everest. De-acclimatisation climbs in East Africa. By I. Howell, 77 80 Climbing in Rhodesia. By W. Krog, 7786 The North by North-West route on Du Toits Peak. By M. Scott, 7794 The Natal Drakensberg. By R.O. Pearse, 7827 Kilimanjaro: first ascent of the Northern Ice-field. By F. Lortscher, 78 166 Peter Botte's Mountain. By L. Gilbert, 78 161 Toverkop (Witch's Head). By M. Scott, 79 99 Mammals of the East African Mountains. By R. Bere, 79 179 The Cedarbergen. By M. Scott, 81 128 The Ice Desert of Kilimanjaro. By I. Allan, 82 171 Ruwenzori. By J. Cleare, 82 12 A mountaineers' history of Table Mountain. By M. Scott, 83 120 Walking and climbing in Botswana. By A. Mills, 84 38 Climbing in Namibia. By F. Elliott, 84 113 Climbing in Malawi. By R. Crossley & F. Eastwood, 85 69 Modern hard climbing in South Africa. By M. Scott, 85 182 Twenty years of glacier recession on Kilimanjaro. By F. L6rtscher, 8754 South African days. By R. Hinings, 87 109 Through the Ice Window to Nelion. By R. Allen, 91 116 Maps: Rhodesia, 77 89 Drakensberg, 78 129 Table Mountain & Devil's Peak, 83 122 Southern Malawi, 85 68 The Mulanje Massif (Malawi), 8572

2. North In the heart of the Sahara: the Hoggar. By 1. & H. Agresti, 79 103 The Hoggar Mountains. By P. Lucock, 83 43 About Irghil M'Goun and the Bou Goumez. By H. Brown, 84 3 The Ridge of Dreams. By H. Brown, 92 150

AUSTRALASIA (inc. New Guinea & Indonesia) Recent New Zealand developments. By N. von Tunzelmann, 7471 The Dugundugoo. By R. Isherwood, 78 188 Antipodean Ventures. I. Western Australia. By J.G.R. Harding, 7928 Antipodean Ventures. II. The Snowy Mountains. By J.G.R. Harding, 81100 Mountaineering in Indonesia. By H. Ishak, 81 35 Antipodean Ventures. III. Mt. Cook. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 55 The Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya. By H. Collins, 85 118 Mountains and climbs in Tasmania. By R. Rodda, 86 17 Kinabalu - Northern Borneo. By D. Nicol, 90187 Climb High Down Under. By A.S. Hunt, 91 133 Maps: Indonesia, 81 36-7 New Guinea-West Irian, 82242 Tasmania, 86 18 Mount Kinabalu, 90 188 GENERAL INDEX 69 MIDDLE EAST A note on the mountains of Sinai. By J.e. Hawksley, 80 145 Across Zagros on skis. By G. Sheridan, 83 102 Some 4000 metre peaks of southern Iran. By G. Sheridan, 84 187 The Mountains of Wadi Rum. By A. Howard, 91 109 Maps: Zagros Range of SW Iran, 83 103 Peak of South Iran, 84, 188, 191, 193 Wadi Rum, 91 110

FAR EAST: JAPAN, KOREA, TIBET & CHINA Mountaineering in Japan. By I. Yoshizawa, 79 128 A visit to Japan. By H.W.R. Wade, 81 59 Mountains and Mountaineering in South Korea. By K. Jeong-tai, 83 55 The Kongur Massif in Southern Xinjiang (Sinkiang). By M. Ward, 867 Science on Mont Kongur. By M. Ward, 8765 The Mountains of Tibet and the Tibet/China border. By F. Boothman, 8783 Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China. By H. Day, 87 117 Ski Mountaineering in China. The Ascent of Mustagh Ata. By J. Cleare, 88 29 China's Highest Mountains. By G. Morgan, 8865 Bogdo Ola Group Survey. By S. Kodama, 8870 Mountaineering in China. By E.E. Vaill, 9023 A Mountain in China. By Dora H. de Beer, 9035 Across Tibet. By M. Ward, 91 84 Ulugh Muztagh: The Highest Peak on the Northern Tibetan Plateau. By P. Molnar, 92 104 An Electrifying Experience (on Muztagh Ata). By M. Jardine, 92 117 Maps: Mountains of Japan, 79 130-1 Kongur, 86 10 Da Xue Shan, 87 118 The Chinese Pamirs, 8830 China, 9026-7 Tibet, 91 85 Northern Tibetan Plateau, 92 105

ASIA

1. Himalaya and Karakoram (a) 8,OOO-ers The first steps towards Mt Everest. By T.S. Blakeney, 7643 Makalu - the first ascent by the SE ridge. By M. Hara & M. Asami, 7635 Annapurna - North face route. By H. Day, 7689 Annapurna South face. By e. Bonington, 76 19 Everest - A Reporter's View. By M. Sayle, 77 116 Manaslu West Wall 1971. By A. Takahishi, 77 26 Thirteen nations on Mount Everest. By J. Cleare, 779 The French expedition to Makalu West ridge 1971. By R. Paragot & others, 78 44 Manaslu 1972. By W. Nairz, 79 15 The first ascent of Yalung Kang. By H. Higuchi, 80 17 Japanese women's expedition - Manaslu 1974. By N. Nakaseko, 8095 70 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 British Everest Expedition, South West Face 1975. By P. Boardman & R. Richards, 81 3 Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak. By K. Glasek & J. Ferenski, 82 129 Polish K2 expedition 1976. By J. Kurczab, 838 1978 American K2 expedition. By H. Adams Carter, 84 52 Kangchenjunga South and Central 1978. By M. Malatynski, 85 43 Kangchenjunga North Ridge 1979. By J. Tasker, 8549 The Chilean Karakoram Expedition 1979 (Gasherbrum II). By G. Oyarzun, 85151 The 1979 Spanish expedition to Dhaulagiri I. By R. Bramona, 85 190 The Spanish Expedition towards Central Kengchenjunga 1978. By J. Prunes, 86177 The South Face of Dhaulagiri. By F. Savenc, 88 181 Broad Peak. By K. Palmowska. 89 11 Under the Spell of K2 and Gasherbrum. By K. Deimberger, 89 16 The East Pillar of Nanga Parbat. By Prof. Dr. H. Koffer, 89 21 Mount Everest. The First Winter Ascent. By A. Zawada, 89 50 Five Miles High Without Oxygen. By P. Moores, 8959 A Sortie on Broad Peak. By K. Diemberger, 90 54 Broad Peak Climbed in One Day. By K. Wielicki, 90 61 Everest North Face - A doctor's view. By R. Villar, 90 110 Everest Pre-Monsoon. By S. Martin, 90 113 A Dangerous Day. By M. Duff, 91 76 Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition. By R Faux, 92 92 Maps: Annapurna 1970, 7620 Manaslu, 7919 Nanga Parbat, 76221; 8922

(b) Nepal Gurja Hima!: first ascent, 1969. By Y. Yakushi, 75 17 Return to Kanjiroba. By J. Tyson, 75 114 The first ascent of Kangbachen. By K.W. Olech, 8029 Lamjung Hima!. By R. Isherwood, 80 37 Dhaulagiri 2. By F. Huber, 77 168 First ascent of Churen Hima!. By R Yamamoto, 77 105 Attempt on Nampa 6755m. By J. Allen, 77 126 The Hidden Valley. By R. Collister, 79189 Dhaulagiri III. By K. Schreckenbach & P. von Gizycki, 80 198 Rokapi 1974. By A. Kellas, 80 219 Nuptse 1975. By J. Fleming, 81 107 Kanjiroba 1976. By R. Isherwood, 83 37 Avalanche on Sisne - 1977. By RA.L. Anderson, 8373 On foot in Nepa!. By J.K. Longacre, 84 181 Come on lads - its no worse than the MidiPlan (Gauri Sankar S. Peak). By J. Barry, 8639 A Himalayan pass in winter - Tashi Lapcha La. By S. Fraser, 8696 Soldiers on Api. By C. Agnew of Lochnaw, 86 167 Round Annapurna. AC meet October-November 1981. 87 186 Last Virgin in the Khumbu. By W. O'Connor, 8821 Langtang Lirung South Face 1980. By M. Searle, 88 106 Winter on Annapurna IV. By C. Hannigan, 88 177 The Traverse of Kangde Shar. By L. Griffin, 8940 Riders of the Storm. The West Ridge of Thamserku. By M. Duff, 8947 GENERAL INDEX 71 Annual leave - Ganesh II South Face. By N. Kekus, 9071 The Way to Chulu. By K. O'Connell, 9097 Kusum Kanguru, a Lightweight Expedition. By D. Hopkins, 90 105 Paldor. By H.G. Nicol, 91 78 Sherpas and Skis. By J.A Jackson, 91 101 A Winter Journey through Eastern Nepal. By I. Haig, 91 103 The Other Side of the Mera. By M. Duff, 92 89 Maps: Gurja Himal, 75 17 West Nepal, 75 115 Kanjiroba Himal, 75 117 Makalu 1970, 76 34 Dhaulagiri Group, 76 228 Kangchenjunga (routes to Yalung Kang), 8029 Kanjiroba Himal, 83 38 Tashi Lapcha La, 8697 Langtan-Ganesh-Jugal, 88 109 Kusum Kanguru, 90 106 Chulu, 9098 Paldor, 91 80 Eastern Nepal, 91 104 (c) Karakoram The ascent of K6. By E. Koblmiiller, 76 149 North West Karakoram. By T. Braham, 76 163 Two expeditions to Malubiting. By A Kus & P. von Grzycki, 76 186 The Battle for Kinyang Chhish. By A Kus, 77 21 Malubiting - snow\?eak above desert valleys. By H. Schindlbacher, 7853 Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974 Diary. By W. Stefan, 80 151 Shispare Climbed. The Polish-German Karakoram expedition 1974. By J. Kur- czab, 80223 Trango Tower. By J.V. Anthoine, 8145 A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.1. By R. Collister, 82 158 Trango Conclusion. By J.V. Anthoine, 82 184 The British Ogre Expedition 1977. By J.V. Anthoine, 833 A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.II. By R. Collister, 83 64 A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.1. Latok II. By P. Nunn, 83 114 Spanish expedition to Saraghrar 1977. By R. Bramona, 83 210 A first ascent of Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m). By Japanese Railway Workers Karakoram Expedition, 84 118 Rakaposhi from the North. By S. Kodama, 86 185 British Conway's Ogre expedition 1980. By AV. Saunders, 86 191 British 1980 expedition to Baltoro Kangri. By B. Hall, 86 198 British West Karakoram expedition 1981. By J. Nixon, 87 132 Kanjut Sar West Face. By M. Fujii, 88 179 Oropolitics. By J. Sircar, 89 74 Autumn in Shimshal and Naltar. By S. Venables, 9064 The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower. By M. Duff, 90 74 Bojohagar. By M. Fowler, 90 77 The Siachen Indo-British Expedition 1985. By S. Venables & D. Wilkinson, 91 19 The Eastern Karakoram. By H. Kapadia, 91 33 The Scottish Gasherbrum III Expedition. By D. Rubens, 91 41 Excursions and Climbs from the Karakoram Highway. By D. Scott, 9146 The Sosbun Glacier Region. By L. Griffin, 91 49 72 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 The Alpine Club Karakoram Meet. August 1985. By B. Murphy, 9153 Walking Conway's Great White Roof - the first traverse of Chogolisa. By A. Fanshawe, 92 74 Maps: K6 1969-70, 76 152 N.W. Karakoram, 76162 Malubiting 1969, 76 180 Gilgit, 82 160; 83 65 Thaime Chish, 87 132 East Karakoram, 8976 West Karakoram, 9065 Malangutti Glacier 1984, 90 66 Naltar Region, 90 68 Siachen, 91 22-3 Gasherbrum Group, 91 43

(d) Garhwal Himalaya Changabang. By D. Scott, 80 155 First ascent of Swargarohini (6247m). By C. Clarke, 80 195 Kalanka 1974. By R. Mear, 8169 Garhwal Himalaya - the Bhillangana Valley. By P. Mould, 82 168 In the steps of Shipton. By P.J. Horniblow, 84 154 A month on Trisu!. By S. Inada, 85 193 The Anglo-Indian Gangotri Sanctuary expedition. By D. Scott & M. English, 873 A short walk in the Pilgun Gad. By G. Cohen, 8779 Bhagirathi III. By R. Barton, 88 49 Kalanka Alpine Style. By N. Kekus, 88 135 Tharkot, an Expedition to the Garhwal. By B. Jones, 90 100 Views on the Gangotri. By M. Moran, 91 57 The British-Indian Police Himalayan Expedition 1986. By L. Hardy, 92 79 Alpine Club Garhwal Meet. Sept-Oct 1986. By A. Greenwood, 9285 Maps: Trisul, 85 195 Nanda Devi Northern Sanctuary, 88 136 Tharcot, 90 101 Gangotri, 91 58 Gangotri W., 92 80

(e) Punjab (Kulu, Lahul, Spiti, Ladakh, Zanskar, Kashmir) The first Ascent of Mukar Beh. By J. Ashburner, 74 58 First ascent of Ali Ratni Tibba 1969. By F. Harper, 759 First ascent of Parvati Peak. By M. Tremonti, 75 53 Three peaks in Chamba-LahuI1967. By D.H. Challis, 7539 The Kishtwar Himalaya Expedition 1971. By C. Clarke, 77 164 Indrasan West Ridge Expedition 1971. By A. Johnson, 77 34 Excursions to Bara Bangahal and Lahu!. By A. Smythe, 78 179 Himalayan Sojourn. By G. Clark, 78 38 The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973. By J. Fleming, 7921 Parbati South, 1972. By J. Prosser, 79115 Parbati South, 1973. By R. Collister, 79 121 The North of England Himalayan Expedition 1975. By P. Bean, 8283 Schoolboys on Kolahoi. By R. Gilbert, 83 174 GENERAL INDEX 73 Kishtwar from the other side. By R. Collister, 83206 East Kulu 1977. By P. Bean, 83 149 A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.2. Baleful Barnaj. By P. Nunn, 8487 Brammah 1978. By A. Wheaton, 84 103 The first ascent of Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978. By N. Hewitt, 85 115 The opening of Ladakh - five years on. By M. Dravers, 85 129 Forty-four and a half in the Himalaya. By D. Challis, 85 154 The British Kishtwar Himalaya expedition 1979. By A. Wheaton, 86 181 A winter journey through the Western Himalaya. By G. Sheridan, 87 167 A journey through Zanskar. By I. Haig, 88 139 Over the Kangla Jot. By M. Baldwin, 88165 Kishtwar-Shivling. By S. Venables, 89 30 A traverse of the Kishtwar Himalaya. By A. Hunt, 89 35 Reflections of a First Trip to the Himalaya. By N. Barrett, 9084 Mountains of the Snow Leopard. By S. Fraser, 91 65 Maps: Approach to Mukar Beh, 74 59 Miyar Nullah, 75 38, 42; 85 155 Parvati Peak, 75 54 Siran Peaks, 78 185 Parbati South, 79 120 Ladakh, 85 131 Kang Yisay area, 85 135 East Kishtwar, 89 36 Kishtwar Region, 89 38-9 Ladakh, 91 66

(f) Hindu Kush Tirich Mir 1969. By H. Day, 7579 Noshaq on skis. By U. Schwabe, 77 110 British Central Hindu Kush Expedition 1971. By R. Scott, 77 170 Ka~han 1972. By W. Stefan, 78 185 ChltraI1971. By W. Stefan, 78 183 Noshaq in Winter. By A. Zawada, 79 11 Hindu Kush - Alpine style. By P.D. Boardman, 79 111 Spanish expedition Hindu Kush 1973. By J.M. Montfort, 79 199 Skhawr 1975. By M. BaJa, 82 210 Mountains of the Thui Gol. By D. Broadhead, 82 115 Wakhan 1977. By L. Griffin, 84 36 The Ascent of Thui II. By N.P. Tritton, 84 58 Anglo-.Polish Hindu Kush expedition 1977. By M. Brniak, 84 137 Kohe Skhawr. By M. Brniak, 84172 Buni Zorn. By R. Isherwood, 85 147 Maps: Tirich Mir, 7579 Hindu Kush Shkurigal Valley, 77170 The Thui Group, 8460

(g) Bhutan and Sikkim Exploring Bhutan's North-West. By J. Tyson, 83 182 Jannu. By A. Rouse, 85 77 Mountaineering in Bhutan (1). By Capt. M.S. Kohli, 90 18 Mountaineering in Bhutan (2). By P. Mould, 90 21 The Lama and the Laser. Two Years in Bhutan. By N. Barrett, 91 90 74 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 An October Trek in Bhutan. By E. Peck, 91 94 Maps: N.W. Bhutan, 83183

(h) Asia - General articles· Himalaya and Karakoram The Roof of the World from Apollo 7. By T.S. Blakeney, 7565 The Himalayan Ethic - time for a rethink. By D. Gray, 76 156 The Himalaya - Winds of Change. By T. Braham, 7857 The Eastern Himalaya - An Introduction. By M. Ward, 90 10 Multi Peak - Alpine Style. By D. Scott, 90 88 Maps: The Eastern Himalaya, 90 12-13 2. Pamirs Routes leading to Pik Kommunizma. By J. Wala, 78 173 International Meet to Transalai Pamir. July/August 1974. By R. Richards, 80 89 International Alpine Camp, Pamirs 1978. By M. Brniak, 85 83 A Botanical Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor. By C. Grey-Wilson, 8897 Maps: Peak Communism, 78 173 The Jazgulem glacier, 8554 Wakhan Corridor, 88105

3. Mongolia The Mountains of Mongolia. By J. Baryla & M. Brniak, 86 103 In the Altai. By J. Town, 9047 Maps: Mountains of Mongolia, 86 104-5, 106 Altai Bielukha, 90 50 GENERAL INDEX 75 GUIDE BOOKS

Guidebooks published between 1969 and 1987 and reviewed or noted in Vols. 74-92

British Isles Rockclimbing in the British Isles 1894-1970. A bibliography of guide books. 77264 Sea Cliff Climbing in Britain. 78 253 The Mountains of England and Wales. 79264 England South Devon Climbers Guide. 77 264 Climbing in Cornwall. 79 264 Great Langdale. 79 264 The Kinder Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 7). 80276 The Staffordshire Gritstone Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 9). 80276 Scafell Group. 80 276 Lundy Rock Climbs. 80 276 Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 81 251 Rock Climbing in the Lake District. 81 251 Chair Ladder and the South Coast. 81 252 The Western Outcrops. 81252 Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West. 81252 Ramblers Cheviot. 82 246 Dartmoor. 83 247 Dorset. 83247 Climbs in the South West. 1. Wye Valley. 2. Cheddar. 83248 Borrowdale. 84 244 Rock Climbs in the Peak - Recent Developments. 84 244 Lake District North. 84244 Recent Developments in the Lake District. 84 244 Helsby and the Wirral. 84 244 South West Climbs. 85 235 Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West - Supplement. 85235 Rock Climbs - Isle of Man. 85 235 Froggatt Area. 85 235 Devon Rock Climbs. 85 235 Devon New Climbs 1980. 86236 Lundy Rock Climbs. 86 236 Northern Limestone - Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 4. 86236 Great Langdale. 86236 North of England: Eden Valley, North Lakes Limestone etc. 86236 Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 86 236 Buttermere and Eastern Crags. 86236 The Peak and Pennines. 89 254 Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 89 254 Cornwall, West Penwith. 90264 Scafell, Dow and Eskdale. 90274 Derwent Gritstone. 91 256 Yorkshire Limestone. 91263 South Devon and Dartmoor. 92 276 76 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Lundy Rock Climbs. 92 276 Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 92 277 Swanage. 92 279 Borrowdale. 92 279

Wales RockcIimbing in Wales. 76316 Snowdon Range. 79 264 The Three Cliffs. 80 276 Central Wales. 80276 Rock Climbing in Wales. 81251 Cwm Idwal. 81 251 Dolgellau Area - Cader Idris & the Rhinog Range. 81 251 Winter Climbs in North Wales. 81 252 Carneddau. 82245 Clogwyn du'r Arddu. 82 246 Climbs on North Wales Limestone. 82 246 Climbers' Club Guides to Wales - 3. Llanberis Pass. 84244 Gogarth. 84244 Tremadog and the Moelwyns. 85 235 Scrambles in Snowdonia. 86 236 Aran-Cader Idris Climbers Guide Supplement 1980. 86 236 North Wales, New Climbs. 89 253 Tremadog. 89 253 The Summits of Snowdon. 90 261 North Wales Limestone 1983. 90 263 A Cambrian Way. 90 267 The Mountains of Wales. 91 261

Scotland The Cairngorms. 74 381 The Central Highlands. 74 381 Munro's Tables. 75 317 The Islands of Scotland. 77 264 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. V. Creag an Dubh Loch, Glen Clova. 77 264 Scottish Climbs. Vol. 1. South and West. Vol. 2. North East. 77 264 The Southern Uplands. 78 254 Rhum. 79264 The Northern Highlands. 81252 The Island of Skye. 82 246 Sea Cliff Climbs in the Aberdeen Area. 84 244 Climbers Guide to Arran. 8S 234 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. IV-V. 85 235 Climbers Guide to Ben Nevis. 85235 Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis - Poldubh and other crags. 85 235 Glencoe and Glen Etive - Rock and Ice Climbs. 86 236 Black Cuillin Ridge - Scrambler's Guide. 86 236; 92 278 Scrambles in Skye. 89 253 The Western Highlands. 89253 Creag Dubh and Craig-A-Barns. 89 254 The Central Highlands. 90 265 Munro's Tables. 90 273 North-East Outcrops of Scotland. 91258 GENERAL INDEX 77 Rock Climbs: Glen Nevis and the Lochaber Outcrops. 91260 Scrambles in Lochaber. 91 260 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms. 91 260 The Southern Highlands. 92 278

Ireland Wicklow Rock Climbs. 82 246 Antrim Coast Rock Climbs. 82 246 Mountaineering in Ireland. 82 246 Mourne Rock-Climbs. 82 246 Irish Walk Guide. 3 - North West. 85234 New Climbs (in Ireland) 1976, 1977 & 1978. 85 234 Bray Head and Minor Crags around Dublin. 85 235 Malinbeg and Other Sea Cliffs. 85 235 Burren Seac1iff. 85 235 Dalkey Rock Climbs. 86 236 Rock-Climbing in Ireland. 91 262

Alps Selected Climbs in the Bernese Alps. 74 379 artIer Alps. 74 380 Le Massif des E/crins. Vol. 1. Meije-E/crins. 75313 Graians East. Gran Paradiso Area. 75314 Zermatt and District: Alpine Guide II. 75 314 Central Switzerland: Grimsel-Furka-Susten. 75 315 Die Hutten des Deutschen Alpenvereins. 75316 Bernese Alps West. 76317 Karwendel. 77 242 Bregaglia East. 77 242 Kaisergebirge. 77 242 Mountains of the Alps Vol. I. Western Alps. 77242 Berner Alpen III - Bietschorn-Aletschorn. 78 233 Guide du Massif des E/crins. Tome II. 78 233 La Chaine de Mont Blanc. 1. Mt. Blanc-Trelatete. 79253 Ski-Guide to Austria. 79 254 High Level Route. Chamonix-Zermatt-Saas (Ski-mountaineering). 80258 Mittel Switzerland. Lepontine-Ticino-Adula Alps. 80258 Bregaglia West. 80258 Les Aiguilles Rouses. 80 258 La Chaine du Mont Blanc: Aig. Verte-Triolet-Dolent-Argentiere-Trient. Guide Vallot Vol. 3. 81 235 Pennine Alps East. 81 236 Pennine Alps Central. 81 236 Mont Blanc Gruppe. 81 236 Le Massif des E/crins. 82234 Glockner Region. 82 234 Mont Blanc Range. 82 235 Crags of the Swiss Berne Alps. 83 236 Le Massif des E/crins III - Ailefroide, Pelvoux, Bans and Sirac. 84 221 La Chaine de Mont Blanc I - Mont Blanc and Trelatete. 84 222 Bernese Alps Central - BlUmlisalp, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfrau, Lotschental, Baltscheider-Ober Mittelaletsch. 84 222 Masino, Bregaglia, Disgrazia I. 84 222 Mont Blanc Range Vol. II. Chamonix Aiguilles-Rochefort-Jorasses-Leschaux. 84 222 78 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Le Mont Viso - Guide d'Escalades. 85219 Bernese Alps East and Bernese Alps West. 85219 Ski Alpin Vol. 3 - Alpes Valaisannes. 85220 Guide Vallot - La Chaine du Mont Blanc IV. 85220 Ski Alpin III: Alpes Valaisannes. 86220 Val Vigezzo (Itinerari Alpini 28). 86 221 Valmalenco Itinerari. Scetti I: Disgrazia-Vazzeda. II: Bernina-Scalino. 86221 Ski Alpinismo in Adamello e . 86 221 Mont Blanc Range III: Triolet-VerteDrus-Argentiere -Chardonnet-Trient. 86221 Del Lago Segrino a Canzo: Itinerario Geomorphologico,Geologico e Botanico. 86221 Presanella. 86 221 L'Oberland Bernois. 89 250 Le Massif des E/crins. 89 250 Le Grand Paradis et les Vallees du Lanzo. 89250 Ortles Cevedale. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. 90 259 Zermatt area including Saas Fee. 90265 High Level Route. 90 265 Mont Blanc, les grandes traces. 90 266 Belles Courses - series of guidebooks listed. 90 268 Adamello Vol. I. 91 255 Haute Randonnee Alpine. 91257 Bergell, Disgrazia, Engadine De Badile a la Bernina. 91 258 Le Massif Central. 91 258 The Kalkalpen Traverse. 92 275 Tour of the Oisans. 92276 A Topo Guide to the Rock Climbs of the Mont Blanc Area. 92 277 ryIercantour Park, Maritime Alps. 92 277 Ecrins Park, Dauphine Alps. 92 278

France Escalades a Surgy. 80 259 Escalades Fixin Brochon. 80 259 Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence. 81 235 Escalades dans Ie Massif du Luberon-Falaises de Buoux. 81 235 L'Ecole d'Escalade des Eaux Claires. 81 235 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Sainte-Baume-Bartagne-Beguines. 82234 Guide de Escalades du Baou de Saint-Jeannet. 82235 Escalades en Vallee de I'Anglin - Rochers de la Guignoterie. 83 234 Guides des Montagnes Corses. 83236 Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence - Verdon, Cadieres, Teillon and Aiglun. 84221 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Saint Victoire-Les Deux Aiguilles Ie Signal. 84 221 En Chartreuse et Vercors - Escalades et Randonnees. 84222 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques. 84 223 Falaises de la Seine - Les Andelys. 85 220 La montagne et Alpinisme 116. 85 220 French Rock Climbs. 86 220 Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Luberon. 90 263 Gites et Refuges en France. 90 263 Rock Climbing in France. 90 263 GENERAL INDEX 79 Escalades a Sugiton, Saint Cyr. 90 265 Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Baume. 91 257 Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Victoire. 91259 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Chartreuse. 92 276 Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Centre Varois. 92278 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - en Van. 92278 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - Les Goudes, Saint-Michel. 92 278 Escalades dans la Chaine de l'Etoile. 92 278 Escalades dans Ie Massif du Vercors. 92278

Switzerland Ecoles d'Escalades Vaudoises. 82235 Kletterfiihrer Klausen - Urnersee. 85 219

Pyrenees and Spain Pyrenees East - East of Gavarnie Cirque. 81 235 Pyrenees West - West of Gavarnie Cirque. 81235 Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees. 84 221 Guide des Pyrenees Basques. Promenades-Ascensions-Escalades. 84222 Pyrenees, Andorra, Cerdagne: A Guide to the Mountains for Walkers and Climbers. 86 220 Randonnees et Ascensions choises dans Ie Parc National des Pyrenees Occiden- tales et ses Environs. 86 221 Randonnees dans les Pyrenees Ariegeoises. 86 221 Sierra Nevada: Itinerarios de Esqui de Monten. 86 221 Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. 89254 80 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Dolomites Dolomites West, Dolomites East. 76313 Excursioni in Val d'Ansiei - Le Dolomiti di Amonzo di Cadore. 84222 Alta Via - High Level Walks in the Dolomites. 92 275

Norway Walks and Climbs in Romsdal. 76315; 84222 Klatref~rer for Norge (Climbing guides to Norway). 80258

Greenland The Staunings Alps. 78 253

Italy Rocca Sbarua e Monte Tre Denti. 81 236 Scalate nelle Grigne. 82 235 Alta Via No.7 - delle Prealpi Bellunesi e dell'Alpago. 84222 Valmalenco. 84222 Gran Sasso. Le piu belle ascensioni dal 3 al 7 grado. 92 278

Yugoslavia Alpes Juliennes. 81 236 Julian Alps. 84 222

Greece Meteora Felsen - Nordgreichland. 83 234 The Mountains of Greece. A Walker's Guide. 92 276 Greece on Foot. Mountain Treks. Island Trails. 92 277

North America Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Colum- bia. 78250 White Mountain Guide. 78250 A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Cascade Climbing Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Columbia River and Stevens Pass. 79 257 Shawangunk Rock Climbs. 79 257 A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley. 80 268 Climbers Guide to the of Canada - North. 81 244 Alpine Guide to South Western British Columbia. 81244 Rock climbing in Ontario. 81244 Rock Climbs in Yosemite. 81244 Climbing . 81244 Shades of Blue (Guide to ice-climbing in New England). 83242 A Climbers Guide to Joshua Tree National Monument. 83242 Alpine Guide to Southern British Columbia. 84 236 A Climbers Guide to Devil's Tower National Monument. 84236 Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. 84 236 A Climbers Guide to Yamnuska. 84 236 Yosemite Climbs. 84 236 Climbers Guide to Yosemite Valley. 84236 A Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks, Beacon Park and Steins Pillar. 85 228 A Climbing Guide to Colorado's . 85 228 GENERAL INDEX 81 Cascade Alpine Guide - Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass. 85 228 Parios d'Escalade au Quebec. 85 228 Cathedral, Humphreys and Whitehorse: a Rock Climbers Guide. 85 228 Climbers Guide to Devil's Lake. 85 228 Rock - The Climbers Guide to Palisades - Kepler State Park. 85 228 A Climbing and Hiking Guide to the Wind River Mountains. 86 231 Climbers Guide to the Olympic Mountains. 86231 Climbers Guide to the Kankakee River State Park. 86231 Devil's Tower National Monument. A Climbers Guide. 92277

South America Guia de Excursionismo para la Cordillera de Santiago. 83 246 Nievesy Riscos Meridefios. 83 246 The Southern Cordillera Real. 84 241 Guide to the Peruvian Andes. Part I. Cordillera Blanca and Rosko. 84 242 Practical Guide and Routes of Ascension on Mount Aconcagua. 86 234 Peruvian Trail Guides: Cordillera Blanca North; Cordillera Central; Cordillera Huayhuash. 86 234 The Southern Cordillera Real - Mountaineering and Ski-ing in Bolivia. 86 234 Reise und Trekkingfiihrer fur Bergsteiger. 86 234 Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 86 234 Backpacking in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador. 86234 Backpacking and Trekking in Peru and Bolivia. 86 235 Backpacking in Chile and Argentina plus the Falkland Islands. 86 235 Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 90 266 Die Scheeberge Ecuador. 90 273 Por Los Andes del Ecuador. 90 273

Africa Mountains of Kenya. 75 316 Guide to the Ruwenzori, the Mountains of the Moon. 78236 Guide Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. 78 237 Guide to the Mulanje Massif. 85 221 Morocco. 86 224

Himalaya Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal (Hindu Kush). 74380 The Himalaya: An Illustrated Summary of the World's Highest Mountain Ranges. 75317 Trek the Himalayas. 91 257 The Himalayas. Playground of the Gods. 91 257 Mount Everest. Massiv Nord. Himalaya - Handbuch Band 1. 92 277