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Volumes 74 to 92 1968 to 1987

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Volumes 74 to 92 INDEX The Alpine Journal 1969-87 Compiled by J .R. Murray The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London Wl Y 5FF ISBN 0 900523 56 5 Printed by Titus Wilson & Son Ltd., Kendal, Cumbria. Foreword This index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume. The only illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those of single mountains or ranges which are likely to be helpful or of interest. Now that there are more articles about the Greater Ranges than the Alps, the Special Districts section in this index has been expanded to include Alpine articles. I am grateful to Mr W.L. 'Robin' Robinson for his practical help and very useful advice in compiling this index, and to Sheila Harrison for her work on the typescript and for coping with my hand-writing. The following abbreviations have been used : art. = article M.E.F. = Mount Everest Foundation Aig. = Aiguille Mt = Mount, Mont asc. = ascent Mte = Monte C.A.F. = Club Alpin Francais obit. = obituary c.A.1. = Club Alpin Italiano port. = portrait ed. = editor Pt = Point exped(s) = expedition(s) Pta = Punta Ln. = footnote Pte = Pointe ill. = illustration U.I.A.A. = Union International I.M.F. = Indian Mountaineering des Associations Federation d' Alpinisme John Murray GENERAL INDEX 3 ABALAKOV, V.M.: obit. 92289 Accidents: Abi Gamin: 4th asc., 75 195 Transalai Pamir, 80 263 Abominable Snowman: Tukucha West, 76229 investigation, 80 101-4 Unnamed (Himachal Pradesh), notes, 80 285; 85 247 74226 Abraham, A.P. & G.D.: Vancouver, Mt, 74242 their careers, art. 79 55 Aconcagua: new route on, 84241 note on, 80284 guidebook, 88 244 Access problems: in Britain, 83256 asc. of S face, 89 159 in USA, 83 257 ill. 89 following 160 Accidents: statistics, 74 145 Acute mountain sickness: and equipment, 74307-8 pulmonary & cerebral oedema, and rescue, 75 265 art. 81 217; 89 68 Alpine 1968, 75 265 see also Oedema Alpine 1969, 75 137 Adam Smith, G.: Survey of British 1959-68, 75 265; early Alpine Club member, 87 142 87234 Adam Smith, J.: 'A family century IMF concern about Himalayan, in the Alpine Club', 87 142 87234 Adams, M: Annapurna, 7632; 79 255; 84231; 'Northern Andean Butterflies - 85223-4 Search and Research', 89 90 Atrak Zorn South, 74 197 Adcock, D.: 'Yerupaja traverse: the Bethartoli Himal, 76 226 NZ expedition', 747 Blanc, Mt (1870), 76287 Adesfjell: Blanc, Mt, Massif, 76 193 1st asc. by SE cracks, 76 191 Broad Peak, 82 132-3 Adiabatic Lapse Rate: 81 82 Buchaille Etive, 76 337-8 Aerosols: Chomolhari, 76223 effect on atmosphere, 84247 Cook, Mt, 78 244 Africa: see also Atlas, Ethiopia, Dhaulagiri, 75 197 Hoggar, Kenya, Kilimanjaro, Dhaulagiri IV, 75 196; 79 255; Niger, Rhodesia, Ruwenzori, 80264 Uganda Eiger Nordwand, 74 67 East: triennial report 1971-3, Everest, Mt, 80266; 81 13; 82 30, 79225 34; 85223 notes: Everest, Mt, NE ridge, 88 262-5 1975, 81 236 1979, 85220 Fitzroy, 79 259 1976, 82235 1980, 86223 Frundenhorn, 75 142 1978, 84223 Grand Capucin, 76 193 North: triennial report 1971-3, Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur, 79226 75139 South: triennial report 1971-3, K2, 92215-7 79219 Kenya, Mt, 76 208 notes: Khinyang Chhish, 7724 1968, 74182 1981, 87219 Koh-i-Bandaka, 74 196 1969,7571,150 1982, 88203 Lamtrang Lirung, 84 232 1972, 78234 1983, 89228 Malubiting, 74 224; 76 189 1974, 80261 1984, 90240 Manaslu, 79 18-20; 80 99 1975, 81236 1985, 91 223 Manaslu E face, 78241 1978, 84223 1986, 92233 Matterhorn, 74 67 1980, 86221 Nanda Khat, 76 227 events & trends 1974-6, 82 227 Nanga Parbat, 76 221 climbing scene, art. 85 182; 87 109 Peak 29, 76229 Table Mountain, history of, 83 120 Picos de Norte, Cordillera Real, guidebook to Mulanje Massif, 78204 85221 Shispare, 80225 guidebook to Atlas Mts, 86 224 4 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Agner, Mte: 1st British asc. of N Algeria: face, art. 74 36 Djurdjura mountains, note, 77243 by N ridge, 75 146 Algie, Sir R.M.: obit. 85 259 Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., Sir C.H., Ali Ratni Tibba: 1st asc., 75 9 Bt.: 'Elephant Island', 77 204 by S face, 78 42 'Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del local name of, 7843 Norte', 7943 4th asc., 79 22, 27 'Soldiers on Api', 86 167 Allalinjoch: crossed, 74 89 Agnolotti, G.: his book: (with G. Allan, I.: 'The ice desert of Pettigiani) Cordigliera tra cielo e Kilimanjaro', 82171 ghiaccio, 86 255 his book (editor): Guide to Mt Agresti, H.: 'Winter Climbing in the Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 88241 Mont Blanc Massif', 77 197 Allen, c.: his book: A Mountain in (with I. Agresti) 'In the heart of Tibet, 89 248 the Sahara: the Hoggar', 79 103 Allen, J.: Agresti, I.: 'Attempt on Nampa 6755m', 'El Gran Trono Blanco', 82 99 77126 Ahluwalia, Major H.P.S.: his books: Allen, R.: 'Through the Ice Window Higher than Everest. Memoirs of a to Nelion', 91 116 Mountaineer, 84262 Allievi cirque: Faces of Everest, 85253 climbs in, 75 48, 144 Aiguille du Midi: by SE face, 89 126 Allsup, W.: obit. 75331 Aiguille Verte: Cordier Couloir, Alpamayo: asc., 74 248 1st asc., 81 223 by E ridge, 75211 Ainley, R.: obit. 79279 height determined, 75 212 Aioui: 1st ascs. on, 75 148 Alpine Climbing Group: Alam Kuh: 1st asc. by central pillar proceedings: of N face, 75 158 74 352; 75284; 76290; 78 264; Alaska: notes & new climbs: 89279 74240-4 83241 Alpine Club: Alpine Climbing 75206 84234 Group, union with, 78264 76239 85226 Annapurna Trek 1981, 87 186 77 250 86229 Avalanche symposium, 85241, 242 78247 88207 archives, guide to, 78 71; 91 293 80268 89221 exhibition of photographs, 89 277, 81243 91215 278 82242 92223 exhibition of watercolours, 85 243 triennial report 1972-74, 80 235 Garhwal meet 1986, 92 85 climbing history, art. 81 19; 83 23; guidebooks, 74 355; 75 288 84 64 joint meeting with R.G.S., 85241 mountains listed, 81 33; map 81 20 Karakoram meet 1985, 91 53 ill. 81 between 24 & 25 Karakoram symposium 1986, ill. 83 between 24 & 25 92317 Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192 Honorary members, 75 283; Hunter's S ridge, art. 92 10 76 289; 88 289; 89 281 Alberta, Mt: honours & awards, 75 283; 76 289 1st asc. by N face, 78 247 Alpine Journal: a check list, Albigna, Pta d': asc., 78 133 86248-9 Albigna Valley: climbing from, art. new form of, 74351, 75287 84 183 editorial staff, 75 283 Alburni range: climbs in, 78 131 editors: 1863-95, 79 166; 1896- Alcock, D.: his book: (with K. 1926, 80120 Wilson & J. Barry) Cold review of vols 18-38, 80 125-7 Climbs, 89 244 corrections to, 86244; 89281 GENERAL INDEX 5 Alpine Club: Alps: Library, re-organisation & geology of, 80 56~61 cataloguing, 74 356; 82255; events & trends 1975-7, art. 84211 83 255; 84252; 88 285; 89279; a high level mountaineering route, 90 298; 92 318 art. 87 41 children's books, 91 145 picture book: Les Alpes, Coeur de Himalayan Index, 92 318 l'Europe, 88 243 management of Alpine Club, 'The inexhaustible', art. 89 121 83254 report of 25th International membership anniversaries, 77271; Congress, book: Les Alpes, 79271 90263 membership rules, 80 283 'The Big Triple Tick' membership survey, 91 291 (Nordwands), 92 165 merger with Ladies Alpine Club, 'Climbing in the Swiss Alps in 81257 1983',92176 obituaries: see also Special Districts pr. 63-65. 74353,391 84265 Alpine ice routes: re-appralsal of 75285,331 85259 grades of, 87 207 76291, 323 86262 Altai: climbing in, art. with map 77272,287 87261 & photos, 9047 78264, 281 88255 Altimeters: use of, 84246 79270, 279 89258 Altitude: 80282, 295 90279 history of, art. 8690 81257,267 91264 medical problems of high, art. 82255,265 92280 78153 83254,266 Alto de los Leones: meetings & meets: by new routes, 76247 74351 84259 Ament, P.: 75283 85241 his book: Master of Rock, 86 258 76289 86243 America, North: see North America 77271 87231 America, South: see South America 78263 88297 Amstutz, W.: 'A visit to the Ishinca 79270 89277 Valley, Cordillera Blanca 80282 90297 1968',7439 81256 91291 'Turner - Promethean of Alpine 82254 92316 Painting', 84 31 83253 Amy, B.: his book (editor): Technique role of, 74353; 75285 de l'Alpinisme, 83264 treasures, rare books & pictures, Anderson, J.R.L.: his books: 88 111; ill. 88 112-3 The Ulysses Factor, 76 305 Valedictory addresses by High Mountains and Cold Seas, Presidents: Evans, 767; Cox, 86251 79 1; Longland, 82 3; Lloyd, Anderson, R.A.L.: 'Avalanche on 853; Jones, 889; Chorley, 919 Sisne - 1977', 83 73 Alps: notes & new climbs: Andes: notes & new climbs: 76241; 74172 84220 77 252; 78252; 90 237 75136 85217 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 76192 86219 triennial report 1971-3, 79228 77235 87207 events & trends 1974-6, 82 219 78228 88 185, 217 legends of the high, art. 88 85 79253 89230 expeditions, arts., 89 161; 92 20, 80256 90251 27, 37, 43, 67 81234 91231 'Andes adventure', art. 90 184, 82233 92244 ill. 90 between 184 & 185 83233 travel book: Adventuring in the road & resort building, 77 273-5 Andes, 91 252 6 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92 Andes: Anthoine, J.V.: early British ascs. in, 92 61 'Trango Conclusion', 82 184 see also South America, Bolivia, 'The British Ogre Expedition', Peru, Cordilleras Blanca & 833 Real, Ecuador & arts. by Apennines, Central: climbing, art. Echevarria, E. with map & photos, 78 121 see also Special Districts p. 66. Api: attempt, 77248; 86 170 Andorra: circuit of, art.
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