Club Activities

EDITEDBY FREDERICKO.JOHNSON

A.A.C.. Cascade Section. The Cascade Section had an active year in 1979. Our Activities Committee organized a slide show by the well- known British climber Chris Bonington with over 700 people attending. A scheduled slide and movie presentation by Austrian Peter Habeler unfortunately was cancelled at the last minute owing to his illness. On-going activities during the spring included a continuation of the plan to replace old bolt belay and rappel anchors at Peshastin Pinnacles with new heavy-duty bolts. Peshastin Pinnacles is one of ’s best high-angle areas and is used heavily in the spring and fall by climbers from the northwestern and Canada. Other spring activities included a pot-luck dinner and slides of the American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to I by Joan Firey. In November Steve Swenson presented slides of his ascents of the Aiguille du Triolet, Les Droites, and the Grandes Jorasses in the Alps. At the annual banquet on December 7 special recognition was given to sec- tion members Jim Henriot, Lynn Buchanan, Ruth Mendenhall, Howard Stansbury, and Sean Rice for their contributions of time and energy to Club endeavors. The new chairman, John Mendenhall, was introduced, and a program of slides of the alpine-style ascent of Nuptse in the Himalaya was presented by Georges Bettembourg, followed by the film, Free Climb. Over 90 members and guests were in attendance. The Cascade Section Endowment Fund Committee succeeded in raising more than $5000 during 1979, to bring total donations to more than $12,000 with 42% of the members participating. The Cascade Section currently has 203 members, with many planning future climbs in , South America, and the Himalaya.

CLARK GERHARDT, Chairman

A.A.C., New York Section. The slide lecture program for members and guests of the Club continued to be popular, with excellent presenta- tions by Vern Klevenger about Yosemite wall climbing and the High Sierra, and by Arlene Blum on the ascent of Annapurna I by the Amer- 700 CLUB ACTIVITIES

ican Women’s Expedition in 1978. The net proceeds of such programs are used to finance a generous contribution to the Club’s Fellowship fund. This year the section also made a significant donation to the Mohonk Trust to aid the Trust in repulsing a legal threat to climb- ing in the Shawangunks. Our annual reception and dinner was the largest social gathering of the section in recent years.

JOHN THACKRAY, Chairman

A.A.C., Section. In addition to the usual dinner meetings, the Section’s activities were concentrated in four areas. Once again Jim Angel1 did an excellent job in putting out the newsletter, which keeps our mem- bers, plus many national members and friends, in touch with the Section and informed of its activities. RARE II (Roadless Area Review and Evaluation) and the potential new wilderness areas which these roadless areas represent were of much concern to the Section. Nick Dodge and Jim Angel1 burned many hours of midnight oil analyzing RARE II and following through with detailed information to our members as to what it really says and proposes to do. Smith Rock State Park, the best rock climbing area in Oregon, was again the Section’s pet project. After more than five years of meetings with the State and much individual effort by members and non-members, we have succeeded in obtaining approval of a greatly needed overnight camping area within the park. At our November meeting, Jerry Lucus of the State Park Bureau, was given the “Friend of the Oregon Section Award” for his understanding and help in achieving our goals for Smith Rock. The A.A.C. Smith Rock Invitational Work Day was held March 31. Over 45 persons showed up with tools and willing hands to stem the tide of erosion, caused by so many making their own personal trails. Improvement of the most logical trail system and blockage of unneeded trails will, it is hoped, help solve the problem. This event will be held annually on the last Saturday in March. Finally, the Section was host to the Club’s 78th Annual Meeting with the Annual Dinner and Program, held at Timberline Lodge on under the capable chairmanship of Chuck Adams. Judging from comments of those in attendance, we had a most successful and enter- taining meeting. A more detailed description of the meeting appears else- where in this Journal. GARY KIRK, Chairman

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The year 1979 was an active one for our section’s 196 members. Sixteen section-sponsored events were held, including three traditional section meetings, seven organizational 702 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL meetings, three outings, one service project, one new-membership pro- gram, and a national directors’ meeting. The section meetings were family-style gatherings with over 70 mem- bers at each meeting. The winter meeting was in Palo Alto at the home of Nick and Betsy Clinch. The program featured Dick Irvin’s narration of his recent ascent of Mount St. Elias. The section met in June at the home of Gus and Emily Benner. In addition to a fine steak dinner, Marge Farquhar, Jules Eichorn, Lewis Clark, Hermann Ulrichs, Eleanor Bartlett, and Raffi Bedayn entertained the gathering with tales of their early climbing adventures in the Sierra and Canada. In October we met at the Orinda home of Raffi and Barbara Bedayn, and the program in- cluded slides of the summer activities of many of the members. These enjoyable meetings raise money for the section’s projects. Business announcements are brief, as organizational details are handled in monthly meetings attended by about 10 members. Money raised at the meetings helped to make possible three outings and two service projects. In February Brock Wagstaff led 12 ice climbers to Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake on the east side of the Sierra. Thanks to Brock, we learned about waterfall ice climbing without injury. In March Gene and Betsy White led a group of 40 nordic ski mountain- eers of all ages on the ascent and descent of Mount Tallac and Rubicon Peak overlooking Lake Tahoe. In July Tom Higgins guided 15 of the chosen few to climb and enjoy themselves at a climbing area near Yosem- ite called “The Balls.” These trips enable members to become better acquainted with one another in mountain activities. At least one expedi- tion which climbed four peaks in Peru was a direct result of such activity. Our service project, led by Greg Donaldson in September, was a clean-up of the base of the northwest face of in Yosemite. Seventeen large trash bags were filled and later removed by the Park Service, thanks to Hal Grover and John Dill of the Yosemite Search and Rescue Group. This trip was especially satisfying as it was the result of a section-sponsored program moderated by Chris Jones during the April meeting of the Club’s directors in Yosemite. At the meeting a number of issues were discussed with Greg Donaldson, John Dill, Pres- ident Jim Henriot, and Park Superintendent Les Arnberger on the panel. Club members and Park Service officials agreed to begin working to solve problems in which both are concerned, such as litter at the base of climbs. Confirming Raffi Bedayn’s previous efforts, the section is now advertising that problems can be tackled through joint efforts and hopes to contact other government agencies with similar concerns. Another successful event was our new-membership program, which was held at the College of Marin in March. Thanks to Bruce McCubbrey and Mary Strudwick, over 175 persons came to see slides of K2, Latok, and Annapurna, narrated respectively by Lou Reichardt, George Lowe, CLUB ACTIVITIES 703

and Irene Beardsley. It was an opportunity for the Section to make known the Club’s membership requirements and to inform the interested public of the nature of the A.A.C., its services, and activities. Other accomplishments by our members involved the Club’s response to the Yosemite Masterplan prepared by Armando Menocal and his committee; a section survey on honorary membership conducted by Tom Higgins; and an endowment drive “second effort” by Leigh Ortenburger, which has brought our Section’s participation of members to 70%. Extraordinary personal contributions to the Section’s activities were made by Mary Strudwick, Gene and Betsy White, and Bev Belanger, as well as many relatives and friends of members who gave freely of their time and talent when needed. As for the year’s climbing report, our members were active on every continent except Antarctica. At the annual dinner in Portland, Oregon, members appeared as participants in every climb highlighted in the slide programs. On a sadder note, the Section regrets the loss of its active members and good friends, Margaret Young, Toby O’Brien, Phil Bettler, and Rick Mosher. R.D. CAUGHRON, Chairman

A.A.C., Southern California Section. The Section held two official meetings during the year. Our main program has been the establishment of the Arkel Erb Memorial Library. Club members helped prepare and move the books to the Los Angeles County Library at Malibu, where the library staff is processing them. The Erb Library will be a valuable addition to mountaineering literature on the West Coast. Our members have been particularly concerned about the Forest Ser- vice’s proposed restrictions on climbing at Tahquitz Rock. Chairman Pete White had several talks with the Forest Service and presented our philosophy of opposing all restrictions on climbing. His written comments were included in the evaluation of the master plan proposed for the area. A group of former instructors of the Sierra Club’s basic mountaineer- ing training course suggested to the Section that the A.A.C. operate a mountain training program. After considerable discussion among our members and a presentation to the Club’s Board of Directors, it was decided that the Club should not sponsor or operate a training program. The fate of our local climbing practice area, Stoney Point, remains uncertain. It is under pressure by land developers, and the city of Los Angeles is considering acquiring it for a park. The city would be con- cerned about accident liability if climbing were allowed there. Ted Vaill and others are presenting the position to the city that it would not be liable for climbing accidents or injuries sustained at Stoney Point. 704 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

The Section lost an outstanding climber when Rick Mosher was killed in a plane crash in the Sierra. We shall miss him.

PRITCHARD “PETE” WHITE, Chairman

Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club is an orga- nization of 12 Groups, located throughout Colorado, with a membership exceeding 6,000. Over 2,000 trips of various kinds were scheduled in 1979. The major outings included three two-week trips, one to the San Juan’s Yankee Boy Basin, where members hosted 14 visitors from Eng- land and France; a backpack trip to Mount McKinley National Park in Alaska; and a work trip to , sponsored by the Forest Service in building a few miles of new trail. We also ran two one-week trips, one to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming, and the other to the Canadian glaciers for an ice-climbing seminar. The club is committed to promoting mountaineering safety. Many of the groups have conducted mountaineering first-aid classes, as well as mountaineering schools, technical-climbing schools, ski-touring classes, avalanche-awareness seminars, and both winter and summer leadership schools. We are proud of a record with no fatalities or major accidents in 1979. Our members have worked with those studying, evaluating, and promoting wilderness for the roadless areas in the national forests of Colorado. There are 164 potential wilderness areas in the state, and a large percentage of the letters to the Forest Service have urged substantial wilderness for these. We have been active in the RARE II program concerning wilderness, along with other wilderness programs and mining operations. In 1980 we have scheduled two five-day outings, one to Yellowstone National Park and the other to Grand Canyon National Park.

FRED RUCKHAUS, President

Zowa Mountaineers. The club membership has grown to 1200. Once again the year was an unusually active one. Many of our courses and mountain camps were again offered for credit by the University of Iowa. Under the instruction of John and Jim Ebert, seventy members completed the five concentrated one-week basic rock-climbing courses held at Devils Lake State Park, Wisconsin. One hundred members completed the three- day weekend rock-climbing classes. Three general weekend outings were held at popular Devils Lake, with an average attendance of 30 members. In January 40 members participated in a nine-day cross-country skiing and winter survival camp held at 10,500 feet in the Collegiate Range in CLUB ACTIVITIES 705

Colorado. A winter backpack trip to Arizona’s Grand Canyon involved two groups of 15. The professional film-lecture series had an average attendance of 450, while the annual banquet in April attracted 150 per- sons from nine states. John Bragg presented an outstanding program on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. There were three groups afield during the summer. John Ebert headed a group of nine up the Alaska Highway for climbing and hiking in June and July. Two other major camps were sponsored in July and August with Jim Ebert as leader. Thirty-seven members attended a lo-day snow- and-ice course in the Purcell Range of British Columbia. Over 100 in- dividual ascents were made by the participants. Twenty-seven climbed Commander (12 making a grand traverse), 20 the Cleaver, 14 Maye, nine the Delphine, four the Eastern Guardsman, seven Jumbo, while 19 ascended the unnamed peak at the head of the Farnham Creek valley. The climbing staff included John Filsinger, Frank Mohling, Mike Bogart, Dennis Turville, and Jim Ebert. This was followed by an 11-day, 45- member camp in the Chimney Rock area in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. Considerable climbing and hiking was enjoyed before the weathered deteriorated. The 1980 foreign expedition will be to the European Alps from June 28 to July 20 or 27. The in-states summer camp will be in the Sawtooth Range of Idaho from August 5-15.

JIM EBERT, Vice President

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The last four years have been active ones for the Harvard Mountaineering club, both in local climbing and in small expeditions. A new issue (Number 21) of the club’s journal, Harvard Mountaineering, has just been published. The club has been at the forefront of the explosion in ice climbing in New England, particularly on the cliffs overlooking Lake Willoughby in Vermont. This activity has culminated in a Lake Willoughby ice climbing guide which appeared in the club journal. We were also active in winter mountaineering on Mount Katahdin in Maine, making three week-long trips there, and in New Hampshire’s Presidential Range. Club members have been active as always in rock climbing at crags in New Hampshire, Connecticut, and New York, but in addition there has been an increase in interest in climbing walls and top-roping in the Boston area. In the age of the gas shortage, we have ranged further afield to just about every major cliff in the country. Rainsford Rounder and others climbed the Salathe Wall and Wall of Early Morning Light, to name a few. Bob Palais was seen over the lip of Foops as well as on long climbs in Eldorado and Devil’s Tower. The club has sponsored about eight slide shows each year, and it 706 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL continues to run the cabin in Huntington Ravine on . The club will be publishing a guidebook to central Connecticut rock climbing in conjunction with Ken Nichols. This should be available in August. During the last four years, the Harvard Mountaineering Club has established an impressive list of failures on large climbs. In our eagerness to apply techniques learned in New England’s rock and ice to more sus- tained challenges, members have failed (twice) on Mount Robson’s north face, Mount Silverthrone in the , Mont Blanc (although the climbers did accomplish the Brenva Spur, but were not able to walk to the summit), and ’s north face (which convinced the climbers to ascend Mount Hess). Occasionally members put their desire for personal gratification over their loyalty to the club policy of failure and succeeded in an ascent. Gus Brillembourg, Nancy Kerrebrock, and others accomplished the first ascent of the southwest face of Nevado Chinchey in 1976. Also that year, David Coombs, John Imbrie, and George West climbed the Carp6 ridge of in Alaska; Carl, Michael and Peter Lehner made several early ascents in McKinley Park and in the Arrigetch Valley. Andrew Embick, Alan Long, and others made several trips to the Kichatna Spires from 1976-79. A few of their climbs include Middle Triple Peak, Citadel, and . Alan Rubin and others climbed in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Northwest Territory. Also far north, William Graham and others ac- complished ascents on Ellesmere Island during the spring of 1979. Last summer, Carl, Michael and Peter Lehner, Karen Messer, James Wuest, and Brinton Young made the first ascent of the west face of Nevado Huant& in Peru (see elsewhere in this journal for details of this climb).

JOHN IMBRIE and PETER LEHNER

The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee took a very positive stand on educating and upgrading its climbing leaders and members this year. The Basic Climbing School enrolled 270 people and graduated 163 in a course consisting of four lectures, three field practices, and a graduation climb of Mount Hood or Mount St. Helens. Group leaders carried through with groups of 15 students and three-to-five sub-leaders, starting with an indoor knots-and-belay practice, and continuing with a snow practice above Timberline Lodge at Mount Hood and a rock practice on the basaltic cliffs of Horsethief Butte up river from The Dalles. The Intermediate School enrolled 42 students and the Advanced School 21. Instruction included six lectures, an accident management session, and a mountain first-aid weekend at Mazama Lodge at Mount Hood. Advanced students had sessions at Smith Rocks on the Crooked River, Beacon Rock, French’s Dome, Leavenworth in Washington, three CLUB ACTIVITIES 707

weekends on snow and ice, and two full weeks on that wonderful granite in . Ninety leaders scheduled 259 climbs for the year, many of them midweek. Accent was placed on climbing lesser known peaks of the Northwest rather than on the 16 major peaks to which Mazamas give so much attention. Of the 259 climbs schedules, 175 survived the capricious Northwest weather to put more than 2000 successful ascents on the club records. The club lost one climber, young John Savage, in an accident not involving a club climb. At the suggestion of his parents, a memorial fund has been established, to be administered by the Climbing Committee. The Mazamas’ banquet at Portland State University’s Smith Hall featured Arlene Blum with a slide show and lecture of her all-women’s expedition which climbed Annapurna I in 1978. Arlene’s appearance was most appropriate. As one of America’s foremost women mountaineers, her presence was heightened by the fact that in October Lois Gibbons succeeeded Paul Herner as Mazamas president. Lois is the second woman to hold the post.

JACK GRAUER

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers have grown to over 10,000 members in 1979, with the attendant problems of meeting the needs and desires of so many. As the club has grown, new interests have developed. A few years ago we instituted additional winter activities, which have now grown to the same proportions as the summer ones. Besides the club’s four ski lodges in the Washington Cascades, we now have courses in snow- shoeing, Nordic skiing, and ski mountaineering, which begin at first snowfall and continue through to spring. The climbing courses continue as popular as ever, so popular that in all fairness to those who want to take the courses, we have established eligibility based on length of membership in the club. A few years ago we developed an “Alpine Scramblers” course, which takes the student up to the use of the rope. We begin these courses with 250 students. This past season we graduated 126 basic climbing students, 93 alpine scram- blers, and another 17 from the Intermediate (advanced) course, which requires a minimum of two years and a maximum of five for graduation. In addition, we offer courses in camping and backpacking, which take the absolute novice into competence in the mountains. We also offer outings for the members, from a week or more in the United States for climbers and backpackers to a month in a foreign out- ing. In 1979 we had five backpacking outings, three climbers’ outings, and three foreign outings to Austria, Iceland, and New Zealand.

HOWARD STANSBURY THE AMER1CA.N ALPINE JOURNAL

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. As in previous years, club activities in 1979 were centered in the Chugach, Talkeetna, and Kenai Ranges. These ranges are virtually a stone’s throw from Anchorage, which makes them very accessible and convenient to visit. Many members climbed on non-club sponsored trips in the Alaska and Wrangell ranges. One group attempted (16,421 feet), but was beaten back by bad weather. Other members were on (16,237 feet). Another member participated in the first ascent of the north face of Amulet (8290 feet). The club sponsored two ice-climbing schools and two winter-camping and climbing-orientation classes. Numerous weekend and one-day climb- ing, cross-country skiing, and hiking outings were also sponsored. Club membership grew to 275 in 1979. TIM NEALE, President Proceedings of the Club

SECRETARY’S REPORT FOR THE YEAR 1979 ANNUAL MEETING AND DINNER

Minutes of the 78th Annual Meeting and Dirmner Of The American Alpine Club Held at the Timberline Lodge, Mount Hood, Oregon on December I, 1979

President James F. Henriot called the meeting to order at 11:00 A.M. and welcomed Club members to the meeting. Approximately 150 Club members attended. Upon duly seconded motion, the minutes of the 1978 Annual Meeting, held at YMCA of the Rockies in Estes Park, Colorado, were approved. Secretary Edward E. Vail1 reported that the Club now has 1357 active members, and 11 inactive honorary members, for a total membership of 1368, and that the following members have died since the last Annual Meeting: Harold William Tilman, Honorary (not reported in 1978), Philip C. Bettler, Orrin H. Bonney, Maynard Cohick, Dyson Duncan, Mary Lou Dunker, Gilbert V. Harder, William R. Latady, Rick L. Mo- sher, Turlough O’Brien, Phil D. Smith, Nicholas W. Spadavecchia, Willi Unsoeld, Shirli L. Voigt, Margaret H. Young. President Henriot re- quested the membership to stand and observe a moment of silence for the deceased, who will be deeply missed. Treasurer William L. Putnam reported that the Club operated at a deficit of $29,623 for the 1979 fiscal year. Income in 1979 was $120,375, compared with $119,391 for 1978. Publications expenses increased from $37,285 in 1978 to $64,894 in 1979, which accounted for much of the deficit. Vice President Joseph E. Murphy reported that 506 Club members had contributed about $110,000 to date to the Endowment Fund Drive, and announced that a plaque will be established in the Clubhouse listing all contributors of $300 and over. Membership Committee Chairman Lynn Buchanan expressed pleasure at the Section approval process for membership, and announced the selec- tion of Nick Clinch, Yvon Chouinard and as honorary members. President Henriot announced the establishment of the endowed life membership category. Expeditions Committee Chairman Glenn Porzak announced that dur- ing the 1979 fiscal year the following expeditions were endorsed by the 709 710 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

Board: 1982 American Women’s Ama Dablam Expedition, 1980 East- em Sierra Himalayan Expedition to Baruntse, 1980 Makalu West Pillar Expedition, 1981 California Himalayan Expedition to Pumori, 1980 Ber- keley Makalu II Expedition, 1980 Gasherbrum IV Expedition and 1983 Yosemite Alpine Club Everest Expedition. The following expeditions were granted sponsorship: 1980 American Women’s Expedition to Dhaulagiri, 1980 American Gasherbrum IV Expedition and 1979 Amer- ican Himalchuli Expedition. Publications Committee Chairman Andy Harvard announced that the following had been published by the Club in 1979: The American Alpine Journal Index, a reprint of Where the Clouds Can Go by Conrad Kain, A Climber’s Guide to Tahquitz and Suicide Rock and A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada-South. Publications in 1980 will include A Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunks, Mountain Sickness by Peter Hackett, M.D., and A Climber’s Guide to the Black Hills. He com- mended Ad Carter, Ruth Mendenhall and Jed Williamson for their work on Club publications during the past year. Nick Clinch presented Library Committee Chairman Horst Von Hen- nig’s report, noting that 450 items were processed during the year, of which 115 were distributed to the branch libraries. The total number of books and periodicals in Club libraries is 11,600, with the branch libraries containing the following numbers of volumes: Denver (266), Seattle (451), Sierra Nevada (264), Southern California (2223; the Arkel M. Erb Memorial Collection), Tetons (236). The Club is indebted to AAC member Lawrence C. Coveney for his generous gift of books and period- icals in 1979. Committee reports were also received from the Legal, Safety, and Conservation and Use Committees, and Price Zimmermann, Chairman of the Ad Hoc Committee to Review the Long Range Goals and Plans of the Club, summarized the committee report and Board actions on the re- port for the Club membership. Secretary Vail1 gave the report of the Nominating Committee, which nominated Directors James F. Henriot and Edward E. Vail1 for second three-year terms, and members Tom Frost, Richard Ridgeway and Phillip R. Trimble for initial three-year terms, commencing December 2, 1979, and there being no other candidates, he acclaimed these nominees elected pursuant to the By-Laws. It was noted that Directors Glenn Porzak, Lynn Buchanan and Jed Williamson were retiring, and the Club member- ship thanked them for their efforts on behalf of the Club. Past President Nick Clinch moved that the acts of the officers and di- rectors for the preceding year be approved, and upon seconding, the mo- tion was approved. Outgoing Director Glenn Porzak moved that the membership commend the fine efforts of Jim Henriot as President of the Club for the past three years, and the membership warmly showed their PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 711 appreciation. The Oregon Section was also thanked for hosting the An- nual Meeting, and there being no further business, the meeting adjourned at 12:05 P.M.

FILMS, SLIDE PRESENTATIONS AND ANNUAL DINNER

On November 30, 1979, Andy Embick presented a slide show of the second ascent of Kitchatna Spire in Alaska, by the northwest face, which he completed with Jim Bridwell in August, On Saturday, December 1, Jim Bridwell gave a slide presentation of his daring alpine-style ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia with Steve Brewer, R. D. Caughron shared his experiences with Gerry Dienel on their ascent of Mt. Alberta in the Cana- dian Rockies, and Tom Frost presented film and slides of the ascent of 22,500-foot Ama Dahlam in the Himalaya by all eight members of his expedition, as well as taped sounds from the expedition and taped com- ments by climbers during the ascent. Of particular note was Jeff Lowe’s solo ascent of the South Face of Ama Dablam during this expedition. On Saturday evening, at the Annual Dinner, the fourth annual Angelo Heilprin Award was presented to Charles S. Houston, M.D., and it was announced that Willi Unsoeld was elected to honorary membership post- humously. Newly-elected honorary members Nick Clinch, Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard also were honored, and Don Onthank was presented with the first endowed life membership. Following the dinner, Al Read, Pertemba and John Roskelley presented slides of their successful first as- cent of Gaurishankar in the Himalaya with a combined American-Nepa- lese team. John Roskelley also showed slides of his impressive Grade VII climb of Uli Biaho Tower in Pakistan with Kim Schmitz, Bill Forrest and Ron Kauk. EDWARD E. VAILL, Secretary AAC PUBLICATIONS

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, annually from 1929, illustrated. Many back issues still available, as well as indices for many volumes. $12.50

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL INDEX 1929-1976, edited by Earlyn Church. A cumulative index covering the first fifty issues of The American Alpine Journal. $8.50

ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING, published every June since 1948 by the AAC Safety Committee. Accounts of mountaineering accidents with an analysis of each. Many back issues available. $2.00*

CLIMB!, by Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chelton. A chronicle of rock climbing in Colorado from 1870 to present. 275 pages, 150 photo- graphs. 1977. $14.95

A CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO THE INTERIOR RANGES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA-NORTH, by William L. Putnam. Basically a reissue of the 1971 edition. Covers the Monahee and Cariboo ranges, and those portions of the Selkirk range north of the Arrow Lakes. Re- vised index, appendix of passes, brief summary of new material, and maps. Sixth edition, 1975. $8.00

A CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO THE INTERIOR RANGES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA-SOUTH, by William L. Putnam and Robert Kruszyna. A complete revision of the portion of the 1971 edition covering the northern and southern Purcells. Index, appendix of passes, maps, photos. Sixth edition, 1977. $10.00

A CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF CANADA- NORTH, by William L. Putnam, Robert Kruszyna and Chris Jones. A complete revision of earlier editions by J. Monroe Thorington. This edition covers the range from Howse Pass northward. Sixth edition, 1974. $9.50

* 1980 issues subject to change. 712 AAC PUBLICATIONS 713

A CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF CANADA- SOUTH, by Glen W. Boles with Robert Kruszyna and William L. Putnam. Covers the range from the International Boundary north- ward to Howse Pass. Completely revised from the earlier editions by J. Monroe Thorington. Seventh edition, 1979. $10.50

A CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO TAHQUITZ AND SUICIDE ROCKS, by Chuck Wilts. A new edition of this popular guide. Includes many revisions and new material. Sixth edition, 1979. $8.00

CLIMBING ICE, by Yvon Chouinard. The definitive work on the art and craft of ice climbing. 192 pages, 16 pages color, 175 black and white photographs. 1978. Paper $9.95, Cloth $15.00

CLIMBING IN NORTH AMERICA, by Chris Jones. The first comprehen- sive history of mountaineering in North America. 360 pages, 200 illustrations. 1976. Paper $9.95, Cloth $19.95

MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, by Peter H. Hackett, M.D. Prevention, recog- nition, and treatment of mountain sickness is discussed in this concise, handy guide. A must for high altitude climbers. **

SHAWANGUNK ROCK CLIMBS, by Richard C. Williams. A new edition with many new route descriptions on The Trapps, Near Trapps, Sky Top and Millbrook Cliffs. 97 new photographs. **

STORM AND SORROW IN THE HIGH PAMIRS, by Robert W. Craig. A spellbinding story of the 1974 American Pamirs/USSR Expedition. 176 pages, 56 color photographs, sketch maps. 1978. $6.95

WHERE THE CLOUDS CAN GO, by Conrad Kain; edited, with addi- tional chapters by J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition of the classic autobiography of the internationally famous guide. 502 pages, 29 photographs. 1970. $17.50

YURAQ JANKA-THE CORDILLERAS BLANCA AND ROSKO, by John F. Ricker. First volume of Guide to the Peruvian Andes. An impor- tant source book for anyone planning to climb in the areas covered. 176 pages, 40 pages of black and white photographs, folding maps. 1977. $11.50

Several books from other publishers also available. Complete publications list and order form upon request from The American Alpine Club, 113 East 90th Street, New York, N.Y. 10028.

** Spring 1980 publication.