Index

A apparel production, 34 Abaca fibers textile manufacturing, 33 automotive industry, 23 textile production, 34 chemical structure, 14–17 patternmaking impacts, 35 composite structures, 14, 25 production, 32 designed applications, 20, 25 professionals, 33 fashion and design, 26 zero waste patternmaking, 33 groups, 8 Applications, UV technology industrial applications, 23 coloration process, 172 Mercedes-Benz A-series vehicles, 24 decolorization and purification, 174, 175 plant (see Abaca plant) pilling problem, 181, 182 production methods (see Production pretreatment and surface methods, abaca fibers) modification, 176–179 properties, 2, 3, 17, 18 rapid oxidation, 173 roofing materials, 24 surface treatments, 172 textile design contribution, 19, 20 sustainable process design, 173, 174 usage applications, 3 UV curing, 179–181 Abaca plant Arecaceae, 69 cultivation and agriculture, 7, 8 Aspergillus niger, 121 FAO, 6 AutoCAD, 284 humid tropical regions, 4 Manila hemp, 4, 6 nonedible banana, 5 B plant age, 5 Bacteria, 110, 111, 114, 115, 117, 119, 122 production, 6 Bacterial cellulose, 110 Accenture Strategy Report (2018), 244 advantages, pigments, 118 Acetobacter xylinum, 112, 113 agricultural plant products, 115 Additive repurposing autogenic textile design, 120 Altered, 209, 210 BioCouture, 111 comparative analysis, 212, 213 chemical and natural mordants, 121 GREEN, 210, 212 chemical structure, 113 Adsorbable organohalogens (AOX), 165, 181 commercial applications, 114 Apparel industry detection and synthesis methods, 111 challenges, 35 garments, 115 environmental problems, 33 industrial scale, 118

© Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020 313 S. S. Muthu, M. A. Gardetti (eds.), Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-37929-2 314 Index

Bacterial cellulose (cont.) deconstruction and sorting industry, 117 processes, 92 innovative applications, 116 design and construction decisions, 91 intermolecular and molecular hydrogen design planning, 90 bonds, 112 design properties and aesthetics, 92 lignin/hemicellulose, 116 fabric-driven design method, 91 mechanical properties, 112, 113 guidelines, 91 microorganisms, 117 laser etching and cutting, 92–94 natural plant dyes, 117 materials, 91 natural resources, 117 post-consumer waste, 91 oil-based fibers, 111 post-industrial waste, 91 organisms, 112 product development model, 90 pH values, 121 sustainable design framework, 91 pigment-producing bacteria, 117 upcycling process, 90 plant materials, 111 redesigning practices, 88 porous structure and width, 112 role of designers, 88 prodigiosin, 118 surface designs and modifications, 88 red and purple bacteria, 120 sustainable redesign framework, 88 red and purple pigments, 117 textile and clothing industry, 88 silk fiber fabrics, 120 textile waste, 89, 90 sustainable application, 116 upcycling process, 89, 90 textile applications, 116 Computer-aided manufacture (CAM), 61, 62 Bibliographic compilation, 242 Conceptualized model, 295 Biodegradable fibers, 299 Conscious fashion, 250 Biodegradable resources, 68, 69, 78, 82 Consultancy services, 248 Bleaching, 264 Consumer awareness, 248, 249, 256 Brushing, 264 Consumption of natural resources, 264 Business model, 244, 245 CorelDRAW, 284 Cotton, 265 Cotton fabrics, 265, 270, 276, 277, 283 C Cradle-to-cradle concept, 308 Capsule wardrobe, 304–306 Cradle-to-cradle system, 129

Carbon dioxide (CO2) laser, 282 Cross-case analysis, 218, 219 Cellulosic substances, 72 Cutting room waste, 301–303 Child labor, 246 Chromobacterium violaceum, 119 Circular economy (CE), 242–244 D Circular supplies business model, 244 Dead stock clothing waste, 303, 304 Circularity, 245 Denim fabrics Clean and dry technologies, 269 advantages, 278 Climate changes, 264 characteristics, 280 Clothing swap, 132 coating methods, 281

CO2 laser processes, 265, 267 color and mechanical properties, 281 Computer-aided design color changes, 283 (CAD), 61, 62 color fading effect, 281 designers and educators, 88 fabric properties, 280 digital patternmaking, 93–96 fading mechanism, 279, 280 digital textile printing, 95–97 flexibility, 279 micro and macro levels, 89 forms and designs, 284 pattern digitizing, 93–96 indigo, 277 practical growth and development, 88 laser engraving, 281 redesign, 88–90 manual design, 280 redesign activities, 88 Nd:YAG laser, 279 redesign process and framework non-reproducibility, 280 applications, 92 parameters, 281 Index 315

pigment printing, 280 design process, 251 production, 277 material sourcing, 250 pulse energy, 280, 282 production, 251 resolution and pixel time, 279 research, 250 sandblasting method, 280, 281 retail, 251 sanding, 278 single-use economy, 252, 253 seam types, 282, 283 unethical practices, 253 stone washing method, 282 upcycled fashion, 250 surface engraving, 281 Downcycling, 132, 194, 223 visual aspects, 278 Dye adsorption, 265 workflow, 278 Dyeing, 264 Design education, 306, 308 Dyes, 110, 115, 117, 118, 123 Design for disassembly (DfD), 219, 223, 229 description, 139 design concept, 139 E environmental impact, 140 Eco-design, 294, 299–302 factors, 140, 141 Ecological consistency, 247 guidelines, 140 Ecological impact, 293 stages, 141 Economic development, 78 types, 141 Economic Structural Adjustment Program use of, 141 (ESAP), 58 Design practices, 296 Education for sustainable development Design process, repurposing (ESD), 291 additive repurposing, 209–213 Educational institutions, 292, 293 intentional patternmaking, 213–218 Electromagnetic spectrum, 167 purpose, 197 Electromagnetic waves, 167 re-style to repurpose, 198–203 Embroidery, 264 subtractive repurposing, 203–207 End-of-life (EoL), 305, 306 Design strategies definition, 149 capsule wardrobe, 304–306 direct recue, 150 categorization, 294 remanufacturing strategy, 150, 151 conceptualized model, 295 repurposing, 151 cutting room waste, 301–303 types, 150 dead stock clothing waste, 303, 304 Environmental conscious strategy, 296 eco-design, 299–302 Environmental consequences, 290 life cycle, 293 Environmental pollution, 2 product design innovation level, 294, 295 Environmentally friendly product life cycle, 295, 297–298 fast treatment, 179 product-service system innovation fibers, 164 level, 295 product functionality, 173 reconstruction technique, 306, 307 substances, 164 redesign technique, 306, 307 technologies, 164, 165 Rs’ approach, 293 textile wastewater treatment, 165 socio-technical system innovation UV treatment systems, 174 level, 295 European Nature Heritage Fund spatio-social innovation level, 295 (EURONATURE), 4 SPSD, 295, 296 Excimer lasers, 279 Digital textile printing, 95–97 Disposable clothing, 290 Doodlage F CE practices, 257 Fabindia, 253, 254 collaboration and innovation, 253, 254 Fabric conscious fashion, 250 circular-shaped wasted, 43 consumer awareness, 254 cutting efficiencies, 34 consumers, 251 designs, 41 316 Index

Fabric (cont.) The Four Actions Sustainable Fashion Value production, 34 (FASFV) framework, 242, 256 waste challenges, 32 audit instrument, 249 waste reduction, 35 collaboration and innovation, 247, 248 Fading applications, 276, 277 consumer awareness, 248, 249 Fading effect, 276 single-use economy, 245, 246 Fading mechanism, 279, 280 unethical practices, 246, 247 Family and Consumer Science (FCS), 221 Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR) Fashion technologies, 247 bibliographic compilation, 242 business model, 244, 245 business models, 243 G CE, 243, 244 Garments’ life cycle, 137, 298 consumers, 243 Glass fabrics, 274 definition, 242 Global warming, 264 and design, 264 Gluconacetobacter xylinus, 113 fast fashion, 243 Green design, 294 linear model, 242 Green dry-cleaning, 255 methodological approach, 242 and sustainability, 264 and textile sector, 264 H Fashion economy, 244, 245 High-power lasers, 267 Fashion industry Hot lasers, 267 clothing swap, 132 consumer interest/purchase behavior, 131 I cotton, 130 Incineration, 275 design, 134 Indigo, 277 drawbacks, 133 Industrial sustainability (IS), 54 focus, 132 Industrialization, 264 human phenomenon, 135 Intentional patternmaking issues, 129, 132 comparative analysis, 217, 218 localism, 131 Repurposed Bustier, 213, 214 production phase, 131 Suit of the Youth, 215–217 recycling and reusing, 132 International Institute for Sustainable sustainability, 134 Development (IISD), 130 sustainability prism, 135 International Wool Secretariat sustainable fashion, 130 (IWS), 178 sustainable practices, 134, 136 TBL, 135 terminologies, 130 J vintage clothing, 133 Jigsaw method, 41 Fast fashion, 243, 290–293, 303–305, 308 Jusi, 21 apparels, 129 attributes, 131 environmental impact, 133 K focus, 131 Knitted plush fabrics, 275 issues, 132 Korean Institute of Materials Science planned obsolescence, 133 (KIMS), 24 products, 129, 132 raw material, 130 trends, 129, 133 L Flax, 265 La Courtepointe, 203–205 Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), 6 Lapped seam type (LSb), 283 Index 317

Lapped seam type (LSc), 283 M Laser Manila hemp applications, 267 commercial usefulness, 6 characteristics, 267, 268 cord fibers, 2 classification, 267, 268 EURONATURE, 4

CO2, 267 Philippine islands, 4, 6 definition, 266 tensile strength, 18 electromagnetic spectrum, 266 See also Abaca fibers light amplification, 266 Manipal Academy of Higher Education low-energy, 266 (MAHE), 295, 296, 299, 301, 303, principle, 266 305, 306, 308 regularity, 267 Mechanical fiber extraction methods, 71–72 in textile sector, 267 Mechanical methods, 72 Laser cutting, 88, 92–94, 99, 103 Microbial cellulose, 110 Laser cutting technology, 274–276 Modern art museum (MOCA), 120 Laser engraving, 274–276 Multifiber Arrangement (MFA), 58, 61 Laser etching, 88, 92–94, 99, 100 Laser marking, 274–276 Laser printing process, 275 N Laser technology Natural fibers, 68, 76, 83 automatic control, 284 abaca fibers, 3, 9, 17, 18 cutting, 265 biocomposite structures, 24 definition, 267 industrial raw materials, 3 denim production, 265 leaf fibers, 2 high- and low-power laser, 265 mechanical properties, 23 low cost and low environmental, 265 plant-based textile fibers, 2 marking, 265 PP composite structures, 25 mustache, attrition, fading and design Nature-inspired design, 294 effects, 282 Nd:YAG laser, 279 textiles NEXT, 206, 207 advantages, 269 clean and dry technologies, 269 cotton fabrics, 270 O denim fabrics, 277–284 On the Fringe, 198–200, 202, 203 dyeing and printing processes, 270 environmental awareness, 269 P fabric cutting and Pattern digitizing, 88, 92–95, 103 engraving, 274–276 Patternmaking technique study and application fading applications, 276, 277 (PMTSA), 37, 39 glass fabrics, 274 Permonosulfuric acid (PMS), 178 pollution reduction, 270 Person product attachment (PPA), 60 polyamide fabrics, 273 Petroleum-based fibers, 110 polyester fabrics, 272, 273 Photo-initiated polymerization, 180 usage areas, 269 Photo-modification, 177 wool fabrics, 271, 272 Photon energy, 266 water-free method, 265 Photoshop, 284 Laser-assisted dyeing technology, 271 Pigment printing, 280 Laser-irradiated wool fiber, 271 Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), 280 Levis life cycle analysis data, 264 Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT), 166 Light amplification, 266 Polyamide (nylon), 280 Localism, 131 Polyamide fabrics, 273 Low-energy laser, 266 Polyester fabrics, 272, 273 Low-power laser, 267 Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), 280 318 Index

Polypropylene (PP), 24, 280 consumption, 68 Population growth, 264 cultivation, 69, 71 Post-consumer textile waste, 209 designed products, 69 Power densities, 279 designs, 69, 78, 82 Power of cascaded use, 244 environmental pollution, 68 Power of circling longer, 244 food sector, 68 Power of pure circles, 244 habits of settlement, 68 Pre-consumer textile wastes (PrCTW), 209, mechanical properties, 77, 78 222, 223, 301 physical and chemical Pretreatment and surface modification structure, 74, 76 commercial applications, 179 physical properties, 76, 78 cotton bleaching, 176 production methods environmentally friendly, 179 gum removal, 73, 74 photo-degradation, 177 hypodermis, 71 photo-modification, 177 leaf fibers, 71 premodification, 176 mechanical methods, 72 radiation curing applications, 176 retting method, 72, 73 Siroflash process, 178 Raphia hookeri species, 69 UV radiation pretreatment, 178 regions, 69

UV/O3 treatment, 177 sustainability, 68 UV/ozone irradiation, 178 textile sector, 68 UV-irradiated fabric, 177 Raffia taedigera, 78–79 Printing, 264 Raphia farinifera, 71 Prodigiosin, 118 Raphia hookeri, 71 Product as a service business model, 245 Raphia vinifera, 71 Product design innovation level, 294 Re Fab, 254 Product life extension, 244 Ready-to-wear (RTW) clothing, 89 Product swapping, 248 Renewable, 2, 8, 20, 25, 68, 82, 83 Production methods, abaca fibers Repurposing gum removal process, 13 C2CAD model, 195 mechanical process, 11, 12 cross-case analysis, 218, 219 retting process, 9, 10 data collection, 228 Product/service systems (PSS) education, 222 categories, 148 in-depth description and analysis, 192 definition, 148 interpretation, 228 designers, 148 interviewprotocol, 230 environmental-oriented system, 148 levels (see Design process, repurposing) guidelines, 148, 149 operative process, 222 market-driven consumption pattern, 147 research and consideration services, 148 consumer mindsets, 219, 220 Pulse energy, 280, 282 donation process, 220 education, 220, 221 research design, 225, 227 Q research plan, 226 Q-key scanning, 280 reuse and redesign, 194 Quick response (QR) manufacturing sustainability, 193 methods, 291 sustainable apparel, 194 sustainable fashion, 222 textile products, 221 R Resource recovery, 244 Raffia palm fiber Resource-efficient society, 247 applications areas, 78–82 Re-style to repurpose chemical properties, 76, 78 comparative analysis, 202, 203 composite structures, 68 On the Fringe, 198–200 Index 319

Upside-Down Jean Crop Top, 200–202 student projects, 306, 308 (see Sustainable Retting method, 72, 73 textile design) Sustainability prism, 135, 136 Sustainability research, 242 S Sustainable Sandblasting, 264, 280, 281 abaca fibers, 4, 19, 20 Sandpapering, 264 fashion (see Fashion) Scraping, 11 habitat conservation, 4 Secondhand textile designs, 2 clothing items, 202 Sustainable apparel, 194, 195 clothing markets, 192 Sustainable design, 269 clothing stream, 207 Sustainable design framework fashion items, 195 CAD application, 99–102 market stream, 217–219 extraction and concept, 98–101 products, 201, 222 material collection, 98–101 retailer, 210, 215 Sustainable design strategies Semi-structured interviews, 242 challenges, 151, 152 Serratia Marcescens, 119, 121 DfD, 139–142 Sharing platform business model, 245 environmental principles, 137 Silk, 265 EoL, 149–151 Single-use economy, 245, 246, 252, 253, 256 garment design, 137 Siroflash anti-pilling process, 166 PSS, 147–149 Siroflash process, 178 slower consumption/longevity, 142–144 Slower consumption/longevity social well-being, 144, 145 design stage, 142 user participation, 146, 147 design theory, 143 waste minimization/zero waste, 138, 139 fast fashion consumers, 144 Sustainable fashion, 20, 194 principles, 143 Sustainable fashion design semi-tailored garments, 143 fashion industry (see Fashion industry) strategies, 144 strategies (see Sustainable design WRAP, 143 strategies) Societal consequences, 290 Sustainable fashion practices, 151, 153–155 Socio-technical system innovation level, 295 Sustainable product and service development Soft laser, 267 (SPSD), 295, 296 Soil fungi, 72 Sustainable textile design South-West Democratic Republic of application of, 54 Congo, 80 bacteria, 110 Spatio-social innovation level, 295 consumers’ consumption, 59, 60 Stone washing method, 282 conventional dyeing processes, 110 Streptomycetes, 122 cooperation, 59 Subtractive repurposing cost of labour, 60, 61 comparative analysis, 207 environmental burden, 53 La Courtepointe, 203–205 fabric designs, 61 NEXT, 206, 207 fabrics, 111 Superimposed seam type (SSa), 282–283 implementation, 60 Surface engraving, 281 industrial sustainability (IS), 54 Sustainability, 2, 19, 25 industry, 59 clothing and textile industries, 128 internal and external functions, 59 definition, 128 Kadoma, 57 design strategies (see Design strategies) laws and policies, 58, 59 educational institutions, 292, 293 microbial dyes, 111 and fast fashion, 291, 292 natural/synthetic fibers, 110 goals, 128 number of factors, 54 principle of creating, 250 petroleum-based fibers, 110 320 Index

Sustainable textile design (cont.) UV curing process, 62 acrylate-based resins, 180 product sustainability, 54 conventional cellulosic substrates, 181 production processes, 54 conventional thermal hardening product-service system, 55 techniques, 180 recommendation inkjet printing, 181 adaptation of sustainable initiatives, 64 light-dependent polymerization, 179 collaboration, 64 photo-initiated polymerization, 180 consumer consumption, 64, 65 radical-type systems, 180 strategies, 63 water and oil repellency, 181 recycling, 55 UV technology resources, 57, 58 advantages, 166 social and economic development, 54 applications (see Applications, UV social responsibility, 55 technology) upcycling, 56 environment friendly, 176 Sustainable textile material, 54–56, 60, 64 forensic analysis, 171 Synthetic fibers, 96, 280 purposes, 166 surface modifications, 172 UV/ozone irradiation, 178 T Tessellation, 43 Textile, 68, 72, 78, 81–83 V applications, 264 Value-added products, 284 and fashion industry, 164 Value-generating principles, 244 Textile sector, 68 Vancomycin-resistant Staphbacteria variant Throwaway culture, 290 (VRSA), 119 Time-saving technologies, 164 Vintage clothing, 133 Torque-free ring-spun yarn, 282 Traditional ring-spun yarn, 282 Transformational Reconstruction (TR) W method, 42 Water-free method, 265 Triple bottom line (TBL), 135 Wool fabrics, 271, 272

U Z Ultraviolet (UV) Zero- and minimal waste design, 194 “beyond violet”, 167 Zero material wastage, 250 electromagnetic spectrum, 164 Zero-waste, 247, 251 history, 170 Zero waste design approaches long-wave UV (UV-A), 168, 169 analysis, 39, 40 middle-wave UV (UV-B), 169 apparel design process, 46 radiation, 168 rectangular cuts paradigm, 39–41, 45, 46 short-wave UV (UV-C), 169 tailoring matrix paradigm, 41, 42, 46 UVR, 168 Zero waste fashion design, 36 Vacuum UV, 170 Zero waste patternmaking Ultraviolet radiation (UVR), 168 analysis method Unfair wages, 246 content analysis, 38 Unhealthy working environment, 246 Lindqvist’s two paradigms of United Nations World Commission on clothing, 38 Environment and Development apparel industry professionals, 33 (2018), 54 apparel manufacturing process Upcycling, 132, 194, 223, 224, 242, 245, 250 benefits, 47 Upside-Down Jean Crop Top, 200–203 challenges, 47, 48 Use-oriented economy needs, 248 benefits, 35, 44 Index 321

challenges, 44, 45, 49 PMTSA, 37, 39 data collection principles, 35 class part, 36 research questions, 32 publicly available collected stages, 36 examples, 36 strategies stage 1, 36 body openings, 43 definition, 35 cutout pieces usage, 43 garment outcomes merge seams, 43 loose and boxy silhouette, 43, 47 tessellation, 43 shoulders, 44 wrapping, 43 implications, 33, 45 zero waste design approaches (see Zero organizational scheme, 49 waste design approaches)