IARCH, 1914. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY

VoL. VII. HONOLULU, HAWAII. •

Several times a week the Inter-Island steamers call at Maui island ports. Almost from the decks may be had a view of Iao Valley, showing the sheer 5000 foot precipice at the upper end of the valley over which a native trail once led from Wailuku to Lahaina, a port of frequent steamer call on the other side of the island.

JA/14,15:JP,1141PtIllZ 1 .,10.,•14t.• • • •441,4X•V•iMMIIMP/47 The glid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor NUMBER 3 VOLUME VII CONTENTS FOR MARCH, 1914.

Our Art Gallery. 217 Americanizing Hawaii - - - - By Henry B. Restarick, D. D. - 225 The Cities of New Zealand By S. S. Mills - 231 Motoring In Hawaii - - By Geo. F. Henshall - 237 A Trip on the Sydney Trams By H. A. Parmalee 243 The Cultivation of Sugar Cane - - By Royal D. Mead - 249 Palolo Day - - - - By Oscar Vojnich 255 Lahaina Days - - - By James W. Girvin - 261 From the Philippines to Japan By Chas. Lobingrer 267 A Midnight Vigil in a Volcano - By Geo. B. Thayer - 273 Columbus in Pacific Statuary - - - - By a member of the Pan-American Union Staff 279 Old Home Ware in Hawaii - - From Memoirs of the Bishop Museum. Motoring Through California's Riviera 285 By R. J. Baler 291 A Day in the Kauai Forests - a • • • By J. M. Lydgate Guide Book and Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.

The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the Usited States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given ■ ■ ■ ■

A quiet sunset at Pearl Harbor, the Waianae mountains in the dis- tance. The country about Pearl Harbor is as level as a billiard table, so that at first sight those who expect beetling cliffs at the "Gibraltar of the Pacific" are somewhat disappointed. •

■ ■

California has her great national park, Yosemite, but there are many views throughout the cascade range of unexcelled beauty. The picture is but a type of what mountainous California has in store for the climber of hills. •

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

At dawn the clouds from the sea come tumbling down over the rim of Haleakala into the great seven-mile-wide crater, drowning in its fleecy foam the mountain ruggedness of the great quiescent caldron. It is one of the wonder sights of the world. •

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ •

New Zealand has named her most attractive glacier after the ener- getic Minister who created and carried to success her Government Tourist Bureau. A party of tourists is here seen crossing Donne Glacier, named after the Hon. T. E. Donne. •

■ ■ ■ ■

It is now a quarter of a century ago that the Oahu railroad from Honolulu was built to haul sugar. Today much more freight of other kinds is hauled, and this railroad has developed a rich tourist traffic. •

Australia has become the country ideal for the tourist. Everything is done for his comfort; New South Wales and South Australia particularly vying with each other to entertain him. The picture is of a road through the Mt. Lofty range. •

■

The ruins of Mitla, in Mexico, speak of romance, and here the de- scendants of those who peopled the ancient stone city of Mexico meet, love, marry and pass away. The ruins speak of as high a degree of culture as that of ancient Egypt. •

II • • • as •

The reefs about Honolulu are still a paradise to the native fishermen, who use the old Hawaiian spear for impaling the fish and eels they find in the crevices of the coral. Even the white boys are some- times clever at this sport. •

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ •

The older Hawaiians still use the old native nets with which to cast for fish near the beach, and they know as if by some occult power just where to cast the net to reap a rich reward in brilliant tasty fish. •

A cruise to Alaska is now one of the attractive summer jaunts of those who can get away for the hot months to tramp over the ice fields about Nome or the mouth of the Yukon. •

This is not a butte or mesa in Arizona, it is one of the mountains on Kauai, the Garden Island of Hawaii. Many of these moun- tains still hold prizes for the scientist and the climber. •

■ ■ ■ ■ ■' ■

The Japanese woman today is often highly educated and either in native or foreign dress charmingly entertains her husband's guests. As a student she is capable of high attainments and by her own intellectual work is raising her standard in the land of Nippon. •

■ ■ ■ ■

The coconut tree in Hawaii Mark Twain likened to a inverted feath- er duster, and to an umbrella struck by lightning. Wherever in the old days a chief rested for the night he planted a coconut, the result of the chiefs' pilgrimages being seen everywhere. •

■ •

The Micronesian may be known by his wiry hair that stands straight out from the head; he likes to have his picture taken if you let him dress for the occasion, and as a single garment is full dress, it does not take long. •

•

The Mid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VoL. VII. MARCH, 1914, NUMBER 3.

Queen Liliuokalani reviewing American soldiers.

Americanizing Hawaii

B.y HENRY B. RESTARICK, D.D.

HE United States has had, for when the men and women sent out by the over ninety years, men and wom- American Board landed in 1820. No T en here who represented all that one can understand, in even a faint way, is best in American life. While the history of these islands who is not there had been American traders coming familiar with the story of these mission- and going for some years before, yet the aries and their consecrated service for Americanizing of Hawaii really began the people.

2-M. P. 217 •

218 THE MID-PACIFIC

There were other influences here, but that in sending letters he directed them the chiefs and kings selected mission- to his father, who forwarded them to aries as their friends and advisers. The Washington. He said that he believed missionaries have been blamed for tak- that the purchase could have been ac- ing an interest and part in civil affairs, complished at this time, but that Se- but the situation was peculiar, and the ward had been so criticised for the ac- chiefs showed that they had at heart the quisition of Alaska that he decided that good of their people when they selected the American people were not prepared missionaries instead of adventurers. for another addition of territory at that Hawaii was most fortunate also in the period, and so the matter dropped. Se- men who went into business in the isl- ward had a vision of the development of ands. They were not all Americans, the Pacific, but he was ahead of his but they were men who in a remarkable time. But at last the inevitable hap- way were interested in the development pened and Hawaii was annexed and be- of the islands and in the raising of the came a Territory of the United States. social life of the people, and so far in The Hawaiians have become thoroly sympathy with the missionaries. In the American in their practice of politics, period of the forties and sixties men and the idea seems often to be that one came whose names stand at the head of chief function of government is to pro- large business houses, and they, with the vide offices for as many as possible and missionaries' sons, who went into plant- provide work at good pay on roads and ing or merchandise, have for ability, public works for voters. But, then, I foresight and integrity put the business have seen that idea prevalent on the of the islands upon a high level. Among mainland, and perhaps it is a part of those who came were Charles R. Bishop, the Americanism they have adopted. American ; Paul Isenberg, German ; It is true that many Hawaiian officials Theodore H. Davies, Englishman. Long have proved defaulters ; it has been in ago, since 1826, the American house of part the result of loose methods of the Brewer & Co. and other firms had car- past, but even this feature with accom- ried on trading business, but now came panying graft they may have learned the opening days of the sugar industry from reading that such things exist or and the coming in of the alien popula- have existed in various parts of the tion. United States. Speaking one day of the There was strife in all these years as men who had brought Hawaii thru to whether British or American influence troublous times, men who had the genius should prevail, but the Americanizing of of government and the ability to or- Hawaii went on. Hawaiian born Amer- ganize, men who were associated with icans kept up their patriotism, and the Sanford B. Dole, who, however much Fourth of July was, in the boyhood of the objects of party dislike, yet were men now old, kept as a holiday in the known to be upright, strong and cap- old-fashioned way, and Thanksgiving able, the gentleman to whom I was was celebrated with turkey and pumpkin speaking said : "They have , no idea of pie. Americanism. This country will be In 1854, in order to protect himself good for nothing until it is American- against foreign aggression, the King ized." I said : "In what way do you Kamehameha sought annexation, and want it Americanized ? If you mean by for a while it looked as if it were to be Americanizing that we should be better brought about. At the close of the by getting under the control of corrupt Civil War the great Secretary Seward political bosses, instead of under the in- sent a secret agent here to make in- fluence of men who were born here and quiries as to the purchase of the islands have built up the country ; if you mean by the United States. This gentleman the inauguration of graft and the con- told me that so secret was the matter trol of corrupting methods of great cor- •

THE MID- PACIFIC 219 porations ; if you mean the importation mising. As wives, mothers, teachers, here of methods which have prevailed in etc., they become a credit to their train- San Francisco ever since I have known ing and race. it, then I would rather go on as we are, The expectation that Hawaiians should with men in politics who are not after regulate their lives by Puritan standards place or graft." was hard on a primitive people. The No one can study the question with- Roman Catholic Church, with long ex- out coming to the conclusion that the perience in dealing with such races, was Americanism of the men who made more "human," if I may express my these islands has been the Americanism idea by that word. I mean, they had no of Washington rather than that of Boss commandments such as "Thou shalt not Buckley or the Philadelphia Ring. smoke," and made greater allowance in Mark Twain said of the Hawaiian their discipline of their Hawaiian chil- monarchy that it reminded him of the dren. The missionaries had a great re- machinery of the "Great Eastern" in a vival, but the Roman Church went on sardine box. In Americanizing Hawaii its way training the people, and made they have crowded more machinery into large gains. the sardine box. Under the conditions When, in 1863, the American Board existing here I believe that a commis- partially withdrew, and the churches sion of three or five business men, as in were gradually handed over to native Washington or Galveston, could man- pastors, the Roman Catholics, with their age all affairs and give a better and far hard-working white men, their attractive cheaper government than this compli- service and their assertion of authority, cated system, with its many officials, had a great advantage, and the churches now in vogue. which had been under the American As one who has the privilege of being Board began to decline. This was accel- on terms of delightful friendship with erated by the overthrow of the mon- the descendants of the missionaries I archy, in which many sons of the mis- wish to say something, and any criticism sionaries were naturally implicated. The which I make will be known to be Congregational system was not favor- friendly. able to the discipline of the native pas- There is a feeling of despondency tors, and the Island "Associations" have among many who have been or are en- really exercised the powers of presby- gaged in Hawaiian religious work. They teries. Still, it was hard at times to en- do not see the results for which they force discipline on a stubborn congre- hoped. In that feeling I do not share. gation. There are many disappointments, but Then the Mormons, who had been when I consider that Christianity was working here for some time, had white brought here only a little over ninety elders who lived with the Hawaiians. years ago, I constantly marvel at what They were not hard upon "Kahunaism" I see. It is true that "Kahunaism" is and are supposed to have quietly favored believed in, and that the moral ideas of a plurality of women for one man. many are not ours. But there is super- Mormonism was more like the old relig- stition in the States of the Union and ion of their fathers, as a Hawaiian said there are classes whose moral ideas are to me, and so the seed grew, not by ap- low on the mainland. pealing to the highest, but by pandering The hope is with the generation now to weakness. It has drawn from the growing up, which has advantages which Protestants largely, but two Roman their parents had not, and in hundreds Catholic priests have told me that they of homes you see the result. Speaking believe that half of the Mormons in Ha- of those whom I know most intimately, waii had been Roman Catholics. Again, because so many are under my care, the the Hawaiian Board finds it hard to get part-Hawaiian girls are particularly pro- Hawaiian pastors. I must say that I do •

220 THE MID-PACIFIC

not wonder at that. On Kauai, for ex- In the public schools, in which are the ample, a sustentation fund assures the large majority of Hawaiian, Chinese and pastors $25 a month. .This is not suffi- Japanese children, the "Americanizing' cient to support a man who is to be a goes on, and here is one of the most leader of his people. interesting phases of the matter. The As a friend, I would say that it has Chinese children are being saturated seemed to me that my brethren have, in with American ideas. The theory that putting so much of their money into the Oriental mind is essentially different Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese work, from the Occidental mind no one who left the original work somewhat a prey teaches in Hawaii would consider for a to other influences. This, however, the moment. The environment being Amer- Hawaiian Board is seeking to remedy by ican and the teachers so largely Amer- renewing white supervision and other icans, the children have become pos- energetic means. sessed with a patriotic spirit, and curi- The Anglican communion came here ously enough this, lighted by American in 1862, and, severely criticising the patriotism, then burns for the enlighten- Protestant work, set forth a purpose to ment and progress of China. The offi- show those here just why there had been cers of these Chinese institutions write failures and how to deal in the right back : "Your boys are leaders in studies, way with the natives. Its schools did in sports and societies for advancement good, but it never had a large work of religion and civil life. They burn among the natives. For the forty years with zeal for China and they impart of its existence here, before the Ameri- their spirit to others." They are Amer- can Episcopal Church took its place in icanizing the Orient. The Chinese here 1902, it was so engaged in unhappy dis- get ideas of the treatment of women putes that aggressive effort was im- and of Christian ideals of life. Last possible. How far these various reli- night I left a room where a hundred of gious influences have aided in American- our Hawaiian boys and girls, well man- izing Hawaii depends upon what one nered and perfectly at ease, were en- thinks. The Roman Catholic priests— joying a Thanksgiving party. I walked devoted men—are all from the Con- over the Cathedral grounds, and seeing tinent of Europe. The Utah Mormons lights in our Chinese Sunday school are not, I judge, enthusiastically Amer- room, I went in. There, with the young ican in the sense we use it. Yet for minister and the young warden present, all this, the strong influence affecting all were thirty or forty Chinese young wo- others has been that of the American men and men playing games. They and Hawaiian Boards. were laughing at the efforts of a blind- But there are other people than the folded girl trying to pin the tail on the Hawaiians to consider. Many of the donkey. Could such a scene be wit- Scotch, English, Colonial and Germans nessed anywhere else in the world ? here are not naturalized American citi- Chinese young women and men of mar- zens, nor do they intend to become such. riageable age enjoying themselves to This is unfortunate in many ways ; still, gether ! In China never speaking to the children of numbers of these are each other until married, here getting- Americanized by birth, and I have heard to know each other, and, I presume, to lively discussions in families between love each other in a rational way ! One Americanized children and foreign par- couple there I knew were engaged. In ents. A curious feature of these islands the rear room I saw preparations for is the number of children in private refreshments. American ice cream and schools, the number amounting to about cake ! Americanized indeed ! Why, I 30 per cent. of the whole. A large was at a Chinese home the other day number of these are in Roman Catholic and saw a young man call and hand a schools, and the lay teaching orders are girl a box of American candy. We all American. know that the Chinese girl is chaste and •

THE MID- PACIFIC 221 modest, and she is so when she gets out point, having a Latin peasant class here of seclusion as well as when in it. will not mean Americanizing the Islands. The Japanese are not so readily influ- The Roman Catholic priests on the Isl- enced by American ideas and life. In ands are a fine set of men ; I admire the first place, they are, when they come their devotion, and I like them person- here, intensely patriotic, while the Chi- ally, but I am simply stating facts when nese have little idea of any patriotic I say that the Roman mission here is feeling. Then the Japanese use every carried on by the Society of the Sacred means to keep their children Japanese in Hearts, whose priests are chiefly Bel- spirit. After the public schools close at gians and French. The coming of the 2 p. m., Japanese children are sent, if Italians and Portuguese to take the possible, to a Buddhist priest and taught place of the Orientals, who number the Japanese language and patriotic three-fifths (perhaps now three-fourths) principles. In order to hold the Japa- of our population, with the children at- nese, the Buddhists adopt the Christian tending, as far as could be provided, methods of Sunday schools and Sunday parochial schools, would this solve the preaching services, besides night schools. problem of Americanizing these Islands ? Still the Japanese are influenced, the Or would it long solve the labor pro- women especially being impressed with blem? We should educate the children of the conditions of women here. "I like these people as far as we could in the Hawaii," I heard our Japanese woman American way, and then they would not say to my wife. "In Japan, man he up want to work on the plantations. They high, woman down low ; in Hawaii, would want to go into a store or get a woman she up high too all same man." political job. The old Portuguese know The children also, when they go back to this, and they, themselves illiterate, say : Japan, as perhaps most of them do, will "If the children are taught too much take some of the Americanizing which they won't work." As laborers, they they have gained here, and it will not mean, and, judging by the effect of our be lost. What makes all our work so education on other races, their opinion, important here is that under peculiarly I believe, is correct. favorable conditions we have an oppor- In talking of Americanizing these tunity of teaching the Orientals some- Islands, we must remember that the thing which they could not gain in their staple product is sugar. A large capital own land. It will all tell, and is telling, is required to carry on a plantation, and ih the uplifting of the race. there are years of loss as well as of The Portuguese young people take an gain. To start a plantation takes mil- interest in politics, and are learning lions of dollars, some plantations employ American ideas. The Portuguese are a over 2,000 men, and there are others on frugal and industrious people, and have which the expense to pump water is a desire to vote for the best as far as $1,000 a day. Large irrigation systems they understand it. cost hundreds of thousands. If sugar President Roosevelt was decidedly could not be grown here there would in against Orientalizing American terri- a very short time be not one thousand tory. That is all very well ; Hawaii white people here and few of any other was Orientalized long before it became races on the Islands. Many of the Ha- American territory, but will the problem waiians would leave, as they would not be solved by Latinizing, and incidentally be content to go back to primitive con- Romanizing, American territory ? The ditions. There must be care lest Ameri- Portuguese, we know, are industrious canization means depopulation. Leases people ; they are law abiding, and their of large bodies of land soon expire. women are chaste. The Italians may be What is to be done with the lands? good ; but to fill the Islands with them, "Divide them up as homesteads," said a whatever it may do from a labor stand- visiting Congressman to me. "What 222 THE MID -PACIFIC would the people grow on the land ?" I a witness of the act which first suggest- asked. He did not know, neither does ed the boycott. I saw the look on de- any one else. Nearly all the land now termined faces as they said to me, "We in sugar cane was previously cattle will, write to Hong Kong and Canton ranges, of which it took several acres and Shanghai about this." And another to supply feed for one cow. Costly said, "We will urge them to buy no irrigation has made the change ; des- more American goods." Many of us troy plantations and the land would re- here know that a Hawaiian-born Chi- vert to its former condition. nese, educated and Christianized, will As to small farming, the Chinese and make as good a citizen as a man of any Japanese can make a living on land race. Only Eastern people who do not where no one else can. They are here know put the Japanese as superior to putting the lava rock in piles and grow- the Chinese in mental or moral qualities. ing crops between. If white people go I hope that in Americanizing Hawaii into small farming they have to compete we shall not do as we have done in with Orientals now here who do not in- Americanizing the Indian. However, let tend to move. On the slopes of Halea- it be understood that true Americanism kala are some hundreds of families rais- exists here in true American hearts, and ing corn ; here is the only successful yet many of us do not believe that, be- small farming which I have seen on the cause a system works well in New Eng- islands, but no white man other than land, it should be forced upon Ha- Portuguese, and few of these, can make waii or the Philippines, or that it will be a living there. I have for years lived forced upon them. If Britain adapts on American farms and I know of what her government to conditions and races, I speak. why should not we? We have here In Americanizing the Islands we American labor laws, exclusion laws, should show true American fairness to tariff laws, etc., and if any one suggests those who were brought here and who that these are not applicable here, his have by their labor so largely made the talk is said to be un-American. If Bri- islands what they are. We should show tain adapts her regulations to local con- that Americanism means justice and ditions under the great principle of fair- fairness in our treatment of all men. I ness, justice, expediency, why should was in the family of an educated Chi- not the United States do the same ? The nese the other day, and two men, very Americanization of Hawaii may be made intelligent, said : "How is it, Bishop, to mean the ruination of Hawaii. Why that Americans who believe in Jesus is it American to have laws here put Christ can be so unjust and unfair in upon the Islands by Congress in the their treatment of the Chinese? There Organic Act which mean disaster? One are men on these islands who came here law permits planters to lease Govern- in good faith before annexation and ment land for only five years, and yet left their wives and small children in it takes nearly two years to mature a China, intending to send for them later. crop, and as crops come on and are Do you think it Christian to separate harvested for nine to twelve months of families, to subject us to humiliation, to the year, they have to be prepared for disregard the Constitution and compel on the land for years ahead. Why is it Hawaiian-born Chinese-American citi- American to prohibit corporations from zens to get expensive papers before they acquiring over 1,000 acres of land when can go to the mainland?" I told them, that acreage is not sufficient with which as they talked of these things, that some to conduct a plantation as things go to- day the United States would suffer for day ? These laws only invite schemes this injustice. Some day China will to get around what would otherwise have a navy and she will not forget. mean ruin to the industry. The boycott originated here and I was If the United States is going to hold THE MID -PACIFIC 223

foreign territory, let the Americanizing which our fathers rebelled in the thirteen embrace great principles and their just colonies. application, and not the imposition of I do not believe that people in Wash- restricting laws and regulations, sug- ington who never saw the Islands and gested by statesmen from the labor were never in the tropics, who know unions, or by men from Arkansas or nothing about Orientals, nothing of our sole industry, nothing of our labor prob- Oklahoma, who know as much about lems—I do not believe it is American Hawaii as they do about the moon. that they should try to solve problems Let Hawaii be Americanized by the of which they have no conception and application of great principles rather who put forth theories instead of re- than by the application of selfish regula- cognizing facts. I believe that the Isl- tions such as the coastwise shipping law ands would be best Americanized if, applied to these Islands 2,000 miles out under the control of the United States, in the ocean, and the tariff regulations we could work out our own salvation, made to protect industries in Pittsburg and have the $1,000,000 or more a year or in Lowell. The people here are all which we now send to the United States susceptible to true American principles. from duties collected here over and I am not pointing out a plan ; I am de- above what is returned for salaries, etc. scribing conditions. Professor Willis, I believe that Hawaii can best be Amer- icanized by the Americans here, who of Chicago, once wrote of the gov- have made Hawaii a delightful place in ernment of island territory: "The Amer- which to live, where there was no need ican people seem prepared to accept for a poorhouse, no beggars ; where, as hope rather than exzediency as the basis in no other land, races have lived to- of their policy." I believe that the peo- gether on good terms of sympathy and ple here who have brought this country respect ; where law was administered to its present state could best solve its justly and without delay ; where life problems if given power to do so. At and property were safe. This was Ha- present laws are passed for us, impos- waii as Americans made it and as they ing upon the Islands conditions against handed it over to the United States. •

974 THE MID-PACIFIC

Wellington, the Capital cf New Zealand.

Dunedin, the Southern City of the Commonwealth. •

Auckland f rom the harbour front.

The Cities of New Zealand

By S. S. MILLS

' EW ZEALAND with more than bours of the great Hauraki Gulf, itself a million population has her four one of the finest sheets of water in the ..41.- great cities, and a number of world. As the steamer, after a run of lesser cities that will sooner or 300 miles from Gisborne, sweeps past later assume first rank. Rangitoto Island and rounds the North Although Wellington is the capital of Head, the entrance to the inner harbour, New Zealand, it is Auckland, the north- the panorama that opens up before the ern port, that claims the honor of being visitor's eyes is wondrously beautiful. the metropolis of the Island Dominion. The city is built on the southern shore of Auckland is cosily situated on the the harbour on a series of sloping hills, southern shore of Waitemata ("shining rising gradually from the water's edge. water") Harbour, one of the many har- Beautiful as the city looks bending to-

225 •

226 THE MID-PACIFIC

wards the water, with houses and gardens wide as the "Father of Auckland." Over nestling in cosy nooks in the numerous 70 years ago he stood with a companion bays that indent the shore, the height of on the summit of what is now known as the hills, the extent of the country, and One Tree Hill, which forms part of the the extreme beauty of the suburbs are not gift, and looked down upon the site of fully understood until the visitor has the future city, the only two white men spent days in exploring them. He should there. Sir John's was a unique exper- lose no time in making his way to Mt. ience surely. Eden, an extinct volcano distant about Tn public buildings and institutions three miles from the wharf and the most Auckland is rich, and beyond all other prominent feature of the landscape. towns in New Zealand is indebted to Access to it is easy. He can walk all the princely magnificence for institutions of way, or he can take a tram to its foot which it is justly proud. The splendid and climb the hill, or he can drive right public library and art gallery owe their to the top. The height of the Mount is existence to the generosity of one citizen, about 640 feet, and there is a good road and the fine collection of pictures which all the way up. Arrived there he has but line the walls of the latter is the gift of to look around to appreciate and to ex- another. cuse the feeling of pride which swells the The business portion of the city com- breasts of all Aucklanders when one mences at the wharves, now in course of speaks to them of their beautiful city. remodelling on a comprehensive scheme What a view ! On either hand a sea, in ferro-concrete, and continues in a and apparently separated one from the straight line up Queen street, the main other merely by the ground on which he street of Auckland. It bisects the busi- stands. A harbour on the right hand, ness centre and is a wide and animated and another on the left, the city is like a thoroughfare. On each side are many queen as she sits aloft receiving the hom- handsome piles of buildings, and on the age of her subjects. All New Zealand higher ground of the city and Public lies stretched out at her feet, and she Hospital, the Supreme Court House, the commands alike the commerce of the great Cemetery Bridge, St. Matthew's east and of the west. Church with its conspicuous tower, and Those fond of outdoor life need never other buildings stand out prominently weary in Auckland. The climate is one from the greenery which appears to sur- which tempts one to linger in the open. round them. The city is liberally supplied with pleas- Auckland is rich, also, beyond any ure grounds. There is the Domain, a other New Zealand city in historical as- noble park of 200 acres in extent, which sociations. The early history of the offers attractions for all sorts and con- province is to a great extent the history ditions of men. of the Dominion. It was in Auckland Auckland is •rich in the possession of that the first emigrants from Hawaiki numerous parks and reserves, but the landed ; in days long past it was the finest of all, without question, is Corn- scene of terrible tribal wars, and to this wall Park (300 acres), a magnificent do- day, as already mentioned, Mt. Eden main presented to the city by Sir John and other cones show traces of their oc- Logan Campbell, who was known far and cupations in their terraced and pitted •

THE MID- PACIFIC 227

sides ; it was the first theatre of mission- stores, and even its Government build- ary enterprise; the British flag was first ings. Looking up from the harbour one set up in Auckland ; in the province a thinks of the hanging gardens of Baby- British Governor first resided, and the lon. The houses are built on tiers on the site on which the city stands was chosen hill face and seem to cling to their nar- by the first Governor for the capital of row foothold, as if fearing a catastrophe. New Zealand. It was a scene of bustle Contracted as the space is, however, and excitement in the early days of the many of the houses built on the hill slopes Waikato War, when the citizens lived in are handsome and picturesque in appear- daily expectation of an attack, and set- ance, and the grounds attached to them tlers from the suburbs and outlying dis- are as attractive as skillful gardening can tricts crowded into the town for safety. make them, while all command a mag- The seat of government was removed nificent view of the harbour and its sur- from Auckland to Wellington in 1865, roundings. After its harbour, Welling- and Auckland has never quite forgiven ton glories in being the Seat of Govern- the transfer. Wellington, however, ment, and the home of the Vice-Regal seems designed by Nature to be the Court. It is also proud of the distinction chief town of New Zealand. It is the of possessing the largest wooden build- oldest city in the Dominion ; it is the ing in the world—no description of Wel- centre of the Islands, and is easily ac-. lington would be complete that neglected cessible from all points, while its har- to emphasize this fact. Wherever the bour is the finest in New Zealand. Auck- eyes turn on the northern end of the city, land need not repine, for it possesses they rest upon huge piles of buildings, what Wellington cannot take from it— housing Government departments of the distinction of being the most beauti- some kind or another. fully situated city in the Dominion. Wellington is the starting point of As the steamer enters Port Nicholson, several overland routes to ports on the at the head of which Wellington is sit- East and West coasts of the North Isl- uated, there opens up a noble expanse and. It is also the starting point of the of water about 20,000 acres in extent Main Trunk Railway, which runs and completely sheltered. Wharves and through to Auckland, the journey oc- jetties spread out in front of the main cupying nineteen hours. streets of the city—busy workers are From Wellington to Christchurch the seen loading and unloading ships almost trip must perforce be made by ocean at the warehouse doors, for there is deep steamer. water right up to the city streets, the Christchurch, or, as it is called, the "City of the Plains," is situated on the most modern appliances are everywhere banks of the Avon, and is eminently available—so that one can well believe English in its appearance, architecture, that its harbour and position will be the and surroundings. Christchurch is the two principal factors which will make stronghold of Anglicanism in New Zea- "Wellington what its citizens predict, the land. The settlement was formed under chief commercial centre of New Zealand. the auspices of the Church of England in The city lies at the foot of a range of 1850. The first arrivals have passed hills, and like its sister city, Dunedin, it into history as the "Canterbury Pil- • has had to reclaim from the sea the sites grims," and in the nomenclature of on which stand its warehouses and Christchurch streets, named for the most •

228 THE MID-PACIFIC

part after English Bishoprics, the ecclesi- The crowning glory of Christchurch is astical origin of the settlement is pre- the river Avon. Winding through the served, while the city itself is proud to city, here hemmed in between lines of be known as the "Cathedral City." drooping willows, there flowing gently With the exception of being favoured under graceful bridges and beneath the by the presence of the beautiful stream leafy branches of overarching trees mir- Avon, named, not after Shakespeare's rored in the clear water below, at other Avon at Stratford, but rafter a little places gliding past grassy banks and stream in Lanarkshire which ran through flower-girt meadows, wherever it ap- the property belonging to the family of pears it is a thing of beauty and glorifie s one of the earliest Canterbury settlers, all its surroundings. Christchurch is re- Christchurch owes but little of its present markable in that it is built over a lake attractions to nature. Built on a bare of pure water which is easily reached by level plain, unrelieved by hill or forest, tapping artesian welts. Nearly every the hand of man has transformed the household has its own well sunk from site into one of sylvan beauty. Skill and which it draws a constant supply, and taste combined have enfolded the city in the sound of the tap, tap, tap of the a bower of trees and hedges, and the pumps is quite a feature in Christchurch wealth of foliage to be seen everywhere streets. Good fishing and shooting can goes far to compensate for the absence always be had within a few miles of of more striking features. Having un- Christchurch. limited room for expansion, one does not Dunedin, New Zealand's fourth city, is experience the sense bf crowding which reached by either rail or ocean voyage is felt in other places where the hillsides from Christchurch. stop the extension of the town—here, Otago, the provincal district of which comparatively speaking, boundless space Dunedin is the capital, was purchased only waits to be occupied. The most from the New Zealand Company by the attractive portion of Christchurch City Otago Association, a body of lay mem- lies in the corner where are collected to- bers of the Free Church of Scotland gether 'the Museum and educational in- who made the purchase with the distinct stitutions—Canterbury College, Christ- end in view of founding a settlement to church College, Boys' and Girls' High which only members of that church Schools. The ecclesiastical side of the should be sent as emigrants. The first setlement is preserved in the architecture ship arrived in 1848, and the present ap- of these buildings, and an air of schol- pearance of the city of Dunedin and its arly quiet pervades the neighbourhood, surroundings shows the strides made in deepened by the presence of a long ave- the way of progress in sixty odd years. nue of English trees which lines the Although now a town of nearly 65,000 streets leading to this quarter. inhabitants, including suburbs, Dunedin Christchurch is very proud of its Mu- has retained much of the character of its seum. The collection is rich and varied, founders, and is distinctly a Scottish and is arranged in a manner to give both community. Its name is the poetic name pleasure and profit to the spectator. It of Edinburgh, the headquarters of the is not simply an array of inanimate ob- association which promoted lts, settle- jects calculated to tire or confuse the ment. Dunedin is situated on one of the visitor, but the various exhibits are fairest spots on the globe, and one will grouped in such a way as to convey some travel far before finding its equal. The idea of their natural surroundings. The city proper lies at the foot of a range of Museum contains the most complete col- hills, the business portions being built, lection of Moa Skeletons to be found for the most part, on land reclaimed anywhere, and it is said to be the best from the sea. The residential portion equipped institution of its kind in the occupies the flat land behind, and extends colonies. up the hillsides in a series of terraces •

THE MID-PACIFIC 229 rising upwards toward a broad belt of fond of climbing the visitor has only to trees which surrounds the town at its make choice of one of the several hills higher levels, and beyond which again at the foot of which Dunedin lies, and are suburbs connected with the city by from the summit of which he can obtain cable trams. How shall we spend our a view embracing mountains, plains, time here to the best advantage is the lakes and seas. There are walks In first question of visitors. Well, there are plenty that will charm the visitor. the usual public institutions and places These are today the four large cities of interest already named to visit, but of New Zealand, but there are other after all it is the walks and drives about Dominion cities with ambitions to Dunedin that are its greatest charm. If gratify.

Christchurch on Canterbury plains. 230 • IN ■ • •

• THE MID-PACIFIC

- ,

44: ,

.,;,* •

Here the auto is speeding along the windw and shore of Oahu. •

Down the Pali road.

Motoring in Hawaii

By GEO. F. HENSHALL

HERE are few places under the cyclometer ticks its register of thousands flag where automobiling is more of miles, and not many nor lengthy are T generally enjoyed than in far-off the stretches of straight road on which Hawaii. In the Hawaiian Isl- the sixty-mile-an-hour man can yield to ands, which since Arizona and New Mex- his speed mania. ico were admitted to the Union, constitute But there are hundreds of miles of except Alaska, the only remaining Ameri- splendid roads, mountain and lowland, can Territory, automobiling has been a beach and cliff, and they take the rambler strong influence towards the construction to a wonderful variety of scenes and of good roads, until now a very large part climates. The trip most frequently taken of the best scenery in the group can be is the one known as "round the island" seen from roads as smooth as those of of Oahu, which, as a political division, America's most fashionable driveways. constitutes the city and county of Hono- Of course there are no long speedways lulu. The way does not lead really round in the islands, no trips in which the the whole island, for it cuts off some 231 232 THE MID-PACIFIC

large slices. These, however, can be ter a rocky gorge, steer our machine on visited by short trips from the city cen- to a small open level space amid the ter. They include the great Pearl Har- boulders and ridges, and find ourselves bor Naval station and the military forts looking over a precipice a thousand feet on the other side of the city. high and twenty miles in length. Below The round-the-island trip can easily be is a vast stretch of level land, dotted made in a day—the actual driving can be here and there with plantations and set- done without undue speeding in about tlements, and bright green of rice fields six hours. But there are places where showing with special brilliance, and in the leisurely traveler finds it worth the distance is the surf line of the Pacific while to make stops, and, as good ac- ocean where it beats on the shores of commodations are obtainable at various Oahu on the opposite side of the island places, some parties remain over night from Honolulu. A few tiny islands, at the northern end of 'the island. mere rocks a little way out to sea, break On leaving the business center one the ocean space. One of them is Rabbit passes through one of Honolulu's oldest island, on which a few years ago the and most beautiful residence streets- great steamer Manchuria lay stranded Nuuanu avenue. Here every home has for several weeks. As with all "wrecks" a park-like garden, and many of them in Hawaii's smooth waters, the passen- were laid out with the most beautiful gers were easily landed, and they were trees and flowers of the trade-wind taken to the city in automobiles. The tropics more than half a century ago. steamer lay little damaged, until engin- The symmetrical royal palm, the date eers secured from San Francisco the palm, the strangely twisted coconut palm necessary machinery to float her, and and many others are seen at their best then she was brought into the harbor, here, while brilliancy is given by the re- able to proceed under her own engines splendent bougainvillea, golden shower, to the coast, for repairs. poincetta, ponciana regia and hibiscus, This precipice is the famous Pali, one not to mention numerous creepers, and of the most beautiful and striking moun- flowers that grow on smaller plants. The tain scenes anywhere to be seen. A tab- lawns remain the same pure green all let in the side of the mountain bears a the year around, and there is no month legend marking it as a historic spot,— when the flowers are not in bloom. the scene of the final tragedy in the con- The road is a slight ascent, passing quest of Oahu by Kamehameha the the Nuuanu cemetery and the royal mau- Great, first ruler of the Hawaiian group. soleum, in which rest the remains of It was here that his last Oahu battle former monarchs of Hawaii, in massive ended when he drove his beaten foes up vaults which contain spaces some day to the valley, mile after mile, up to the contain the ashes of present survivors of Pali—and over it, and their bones still lie the dynasty that was overthrown by the amid the rocks and vegetation below. revolution of 1893. Passing the grounds There was little mercy in Hawaiian war- of the Oahu Country Club, we ride on a fare in those days. perfect roadway, between two rugged Today, there is a fine roadway down ranges of hills, branches of the main the other side, and we can continue our range which we are crossing. The hill- journey, zigzagging to the lowland sides are almost perpendicular, but slop- Crossing a forest of wild guava and ing enough to have permitted the growth passing numerous settlements and small of thick forests of kukui, a mountain plantations, we soon reach the ocean and tree rugged as any oak and having circuit the island near it, now under the leaves of a very beautiful and unusual foothills at sea level, and now at slight tint. elevation. At Hauulu, thirty-one and a Six and a half miles from Honolv half miles from Honolulu is a good hotel about 1,200 feet above sea level, we en- and a good bathing beach. The road- •

THE MID -PACIFIC 233 way continues near the ocean, passing structing his di ydock and other features the lofty pole of the Kahuku wireless of the naval station. The main road station, which "talks" through the air to leads past it at a distance, but there is a San Francisco, and to coming and going side road leading to the scene of opera- steamers in all directions. Then it strikes tions. across the island, through the Mormon Just before Honolulu, Moanalua is village of Laie. The way is now through reached. This is a large private park, the canefields of Kahuku plantation and the property of Hon. S. M. Damon, who along the shore, to the Haleiwa (house- has for years opened the grounds to the beautiful) hotel. It is a rough shore- public. The planning and cultivation of line, a great part of it sharp, broken, this estate represents a lifetime of efforts black rock—the lava flows of a million by Mr. and Mrs. Damon, aided by ex- years ago, beaten by steady relentless pert gardeners, and to the lover of flow- surf into all sorts of jagged shapes. As ers and trees, this park is worth a long the waves dash against this black shore, visit. breaking up in angry snow-white foam, Immediately after the Damon grounds the scene is one of great beauty. The comes Fort Shafter, another large mili- water is limpid green, deepening and tary station, and then we enter Hono- changing in color towards the horizon, lulu, passing through her Asiatic section with all the indescribable shades of blue, to our starting point. green, emerald and violet that tropical The other islands of the Hawaiian oceans show under the rays of the sun. group also have their fine roads and There are some stretches of white sand scenic trips. The Kauai and Maui roads and numerous little coves that look are practically perfect over nearly all tempting to bathers, but the surf is their lines of communication, and their dangerous here. scenery is most magnificent. Maui has Haleiwa hotel is a stopping place for Iao valley—a second Yosemite, it has an hour, a. day or as long as fancy dic- been called, though of course it is not tates. It has golf links, tennis, etc., and comparable in size to the great valley of a good beach for bathing. Close by it the Sierras. That the roads on these are the cane fields of Waialua plantation, islands are not more used by private and the plantation mill. Behind it is the machines is due in part to the difficulty mountain ridge we have rounded at the of transporting machines from Hono- northern end. lulu, especially in the case of Kauai, th, The start back takes us inland, not to trips being regarded by many as too see the ocean again until we sight Pearl short for the expense of lightering autos Harbor, America's greatest Pacific naval to the shore. This is necessary because base, probably destined to be the greatest there are no docks for large steamers. naval station under the flag. Through On each island, however, there are plenty a part of Waialua plantation, we rise to of machines for hire. a plateau over which a straight and level The larger island of Hawaii has wharf- road leads to the pineapple lands and age facilities, and autos can be landed as Schofield barracks, the largest military easily as at Honolulu. Hawaii is an encampment in Hawaii. There are thou- island of longer distances and greater sands of acres of pineapples, set in long elevations. The trip most taken is from straight rows, and we may see trainloads Hilo, the principal port, to the Volcano of twenty cars and more, on their way to of Kilauea. The road is an excellently Honolulu. Descending several gulches finished one over nearly all the distance, and ascending on the other side, and and at no part is it a difficult road. It passing more sugar carte, sugar mills and leads through the thirty thousand acres villages, we soon see Pearl Harbor and of Olaa Sugar Company and then in the distance can sight some of the through dense forests to the Volcano machinery with which Uncle Sam is con- House, at an elevation of 4,000 feet.

3-M. P. •

234 THE MID-PACIFIC

There is a marked change in climate as roads bad in wet weather. Those who one rises from the ocean level, and over- keep on beyond the volcano should take coats are donned before the stop in front at least two days to the trip. They will of the old Volcano House. The scenery enjoy scenery and natural wonders which and the forests are different from the they will not forget. There are some other islands—geologists say that the stretches of unfinished road, but this is island is younger. Thousands of acres the dry side of the island, and excepting of Kukui trees cover the lower lands. a few short sections crossing old lava Their trunks rise from an impenetrable flows on the slopes of Mauna Loa, there undergrowth of vines and ferns and is no difficult road. The widest of these creepers. Ferns and wild bananas seem flows is about seventeen miles. Standing to thrive amid the tangle of smaller in the middle of it, one is in a vast field vegetation and among the mixture a of black boulders and equally black sort of wild strawberry, often served at frozen streams, petrified bubbles and gi- the table in the Volcano House, holds gantic cinders. Except on the road, no its own. A small wild rose maintains a horse or mule could travel on this deso- precarious existence, and, near Olaa hun- late land. However, a road has been dreds of coffee trees being choked out hammered through it, it is always per- by the riotous growths that quickly re- fectly dry, and it is worth the trip to see claimed the land when the coffee trees it, bumps nothwithstanding. Beyond, were abandoned, are a sad reminder of one enters again the splendors of Ha- the fact that overtook a lot of home- waii mountain roads, in the district of steaders who cleared the land and started Kona, where are to be seen the Hawaii- coffee raising a dozen years ago. Some ans who are more nearly like the primit- claim that with a tariff on coffee, which ive hut-dwelling Hawaiian of olden times was much agitated for without success, than any others in the group. The road these little farms would have paid. Their here is on the mountain side, far above owners established some beautiful homes, the ocean and miles away from it, but most of which have gone to ruin. it is visible nearly all the way, except From the hotel to within a few min- when forests shut out the view. At Kai- utes' walk of the active crater's edge, lua, the principal port on this side of the there is a perfect automobile road. It island, one may embark on an inter-island circuits an old dead crater, and ends on steamer. It is necessary to lighter the the floor of Kilauea itself. A remark- auto, as there is no wharf at which a able evidence of the progress of the isl- steamer may dock, but this is the lee side ands, is the sight of twenty or thirty of the island and the water is always automobiles lined up in the space levelled smooth. Here and at Mahukona, farther off for them in the dead lava, brought on, machines are landed and embarked into red relief (at night) by the glare all the year round. from the stormy lake of fire close by. The rest of the island-rounding trip Steps are being taken to make the entire includes a run across to the other side of region of Kilauea, including the snow- the island, through the 300,000 acres of covered summit of Mauna Loa (13,625 the Parker cattle ranch, one of whose feet) a National Park. cowboys recently won the world's champ- Beyond the Volcano House, the way ionship in steer-roping, contesting in leads to the ocean on the south side of Wyoming's big annual show against all the island. Most visitors return to Hilo the cowboys of the West. The Hilo side after the Volcano trip, and there are of the island is reached at Kukuihaele several shorter trips in and about Hilo plantation, fifty-eight miles from Hilo. district which are of great interest. The The ride into Hilo is one of great beauty. comfort with which they may be made It is near the shore all the way. The depends upon weather conditions, the whole fifty-eight miles is a continuous coast here being a rainy one and the stretch of sugar plantations. •

THE MID-PACIFIC 235

All of the routes that have herein been gator pear), roselle, grapes, coconut, va- briefly described have been taken by large nilla, papaya, sweet potatoes and other parties of American Senators and Repre- vegetables, broom corn, forage plants, sentatives, invited to Hawaii as guests of Bermuda onions, and other smaller the Territory and the Delegate to Con- crops. gress, to study her needs at first hand. Except for the longer trips, on the isl- All of the members, the married ones ac- and of Hawaii, no preparations or tak- companied by their wives, traveled in ing of stores are necessary. Machine automobiles, and many of them enjoyed supplies are obtainable at short intervals, side-journeys on horseback and on foot along the trails that lead to the mountain and one is never far from reasonably heights. Stopping at various points, they good accommodations—on the island of saw something of the diversity of Ha- Oahu never far from first class hotel waii's products, for on the travels just fare. However, even the Hawaii trip described one may see growing crops of totals only 255 miles, and has been made sugar, rice, sisal, rubber, tobacco, coffee. in less than a day. There is a large and cotton, cassava, castor oil beans, Manila well equipped garage at Hilo, and fuel hemp, pineapples, bananas, avocado (alli- and water are to be had at many points.

Motoring under the tree ferns, Volcano road. 236 • •■ III •

4- 4- 4- • ' - ,V f.-; • - . s. ' .., -•-. ,..".;', 1,-

• THE MID-PACIFIC _,., , ,,,..„ --;•.: . 1,.. ,:„.. .; ,`' — — t ,„ ' 2.v::-.4.,M11 ,, 1!"111, "'"- '-- - 4:-.7. „,. 4.-,4-t7VIFIkt 4:-., 4!' - A-,1,- *:: .-t„;.:•--° '''''. *Ci-44 ; -,-°:*. "-`: - .. ." 't- - ''''`' ..,, —4, -'-t--- . ''• .,. t ,s:6;2.k., tvi....,,t , t. . _ '" . . ;,..-, ...:-:"v•I''''''''',, - '-' *°:.. 12"1 t•wt :„ Ne. : '''.-;! !, ,-, '.::...::''-. . 1 7:•;' ' ' 41 '''./. 'It A.„ --,-01----_ - ti , ::--- -,.,..------, „_--, 1.----- ...-.,,,,,t,.., ..- , ,:, ,- iii. : :.; . _,,,,, .... :-'',' -- ..4-, "'''.,,,,,:::14.-1._ ,,,,,,_:;:z,,,,

There are a scscore of beaches near Sydney that are r eaeac _ hedby r the electric tram system. •

George Street, Sydney.

A Trip on the Sydney Trams

By H. A. PARMALEE

- E had been studying the Guide the style of cars, (you may call them Books and concluded that this coaches, wagons or most anything, all of W day we would try the Watson which will be correct, but here they call Bay trip, take a look at the them cars mostly, the same as we do.) Ostrich Farm and the celebrated South They have numerous styles. The first is Head Light House. that abomination, the compartment car. Now before going further I think I Now because I do not happen to like them might as well devote a little time to the is no reason that others should not prefer street tramways. Taking it as a whole I them, for doubtless for cold rainy weath- think that they have an excellent system, er they would be very comfortable, and in some respects, superior. The first for residents who do not care to see out, thing that will strike a Yankee will be would be right enough, and in expressing

237 •

238 THE MID -PACIFIC

my antipathy for them I may be losing auxiliary hand brake. The air must be sight of the fact "that there are other a great blessing to the motorman, for if "pebbles upon the beach." Then there is you watch a motorman for a few mo- the style that has an enclosed compart- ments you can see how much physical ment in the center, seats on the side run- exertion is required constantly. Then I ning fore-an-aft, and an open space at noticed that when the car arrived at the each end with seats running the same suburbs, there was a little seat that could way. This has the advantage that in unfold, and there he could rest himself pleasant weather one can sit on the out- and handle the car just as well, all on side and see something, also shows some account of that little lever controlling the consideration for the poor guard who airbrake. can have some shelter. Then there is the subject of fares, I I should say, however, that these think that they have a just and equitable seats on the outside are so arranged that system. "Pay as you go." Fare is penny the backs can be turned over and so re- a section and the sections are good gen- versed that the occupants in bad weath- erous long ones. For instance ; we could er can sit facing one another and can ride from the Circular Quay to the Rail- have their backs to the storm and have way station for a penny, (about two the lower part of the body covered. cents.) This section was at least 172 Then there is another kind similar to miles through the busiest part of the the above excepting that the seats on the city. Should say that most all of the outside run athwart-ships so that one sections are at least a mile long. With can see on both sides. In this case the us, we pay a nickel for a ride be it either guard has to stay on the outside. Then long or short, and we give "transfers" there are observation cars which are run that allow a passenger on one continuous on certain days from some particular trip to go as far as the rails are laid. At point, previously advertised, making the the same time should I wish to ride a grand tour of the city and suburbs, es- block down town I must pay five cents. I pecially for the pleasure of visitors. have never studied tramway finance, but These are quite large and open and the I have heard it argued that most of the seats run athwart. These are very nice fares were short rides in the crowded and we took advantage of them several part of the city, but my observation times. Then every car has its smoking causes me to believe that the greatest compartment, which is very important, number of patrons of our road are the as almost every man here is a smoker, suburbanites. of a pipe. I do not wonder at that. I The guard comes round with a big bought but one cigar while I was away, leather bag strapped to him, containing that was the first day in Sydney, and his pounds, shillings, sixpences, thrip- that ended my cigar smoking. I noticed ences, pennies, ha'pennies, two-shilling that almost every other man on the pieces, crowns, and 'alf-crowns, florins streets had a pipe in his mouth. Never and the equivilent for guineas, etc., all considered it quite good form you know, too numerous to mention and you tell to be seen on the street with pipe in him where you want to go. He names mouth, but here it is almost universal. the amount and pulls out of his bag a Sometimes these smoking compart- long, narrow and thick book of tickets ments occupied at least half of the car. of all kinds, tears off one for the right Ladies did not seem to mind it as many number of sections and the transaction sat in them. Doubtless tobacco was with is finished. them as tea had become to me, had to be At first I could not understand the use endured. of that ticket, but soon learned that it Another good thing to my mind was was wise to keep hold of it to the end of the use of the airbrake. Wherever the the trip. You are expected to get off airbrake was used however, they had an upon arriving at the point for which you •

THE MID- PACIFIC 239 have paid, but perhaps you can go on stop and chat, middle of pavement or further and escape the notice of the any old place, and it is all right. The guard, but the people seem to have great crowd good naturedly walks around respect for the law, and well they might, them. Why, one eve we had come in for they are not cursed here with the from some place in the suburbs or "law's delay" as we sometimes are. Just- somewhere, and had taken a line of ice is dispensed quickly, and if the trams that brought us a few blocks occasion seem to warrant no hesitancy in from home, and we found the pavements giving the "limit." The car being crowd- jammed with crowds of men, even ex- ed the guard may not be sure of all the tending far out into the streets. We passengers, and he may want to see that could not think what was the matter. I ticket, then like the Texan's pistol, you thought that there must be some great want it quick and want it bad. Likewise news or something of that sort. Very an inspector is liable to jump aboard at like some of our election nights, and any moment, and then tickets are in or- I looked for transparencies or bul- der. This does not occur very often letin boards, but could see none. On here in Sydney, but still I found it wise arriving home we asked our landlady to hold the ticket. At journey's end, you what was the matter? Told her about still have the ticket, now what to do with the crowds on the street. Oh ! she re- it? Throw it on the street or pavement? plied, "it is Saturday night, there is al- Nit ! nix ! ways a crowd on Saturday night." They You will find at every corner a wire were just visiting. basket on which is a sign saying: "For Now back to the tram-way subject. unused tram tickets." Streets are kept The cars running so close together in clean. passing, should you get off on the right Now there is a very important rule of side you run a good chance of being hit the road it is well to remember ; that is : by a passing car. always get on or off on the left side. Now we will start again for Watson The streets in the business part of the Bay. The tram would have taken us city are narrow, so the tram tracks are right to the spot, but we wanted to see close together (double tracks) and the the Ostrich Farm, and the guard said cars are as thick as bees in this part, he would show us where it was. fully as bad as Broadway, N. Y., it We were now out in the country, but seemed to me. Also another thing to re- on the left the city spread out over the member, that everything turns to the hills as far as one could see, while on left instead of the right. This part came the right was the vast Pacific. At a very awkward to me, not only at first, turn in the road the farm house was but all the time I was away nearly. Now pointed out, so we concluded to get off I must again digress. Why ! how time there and walk to if then. The road flies. We have not got started for Wat- was a typical country road, and about son Bay even. I must get a "move on" two miles to the farm. I thought we or we will never get there. I told you would never get there. The sides of at the commencement I was afraid that the road were lined with all kinds of my thoughts would not be expressed strange flowers, bushes and plants grow- consecutively. ing wild, and we loitered and picked I said that all turned to the left here. flowers. Will make an exception. On the streets The farm house is rather a small and of Sydney you will see frequent signs unassuming building, but a fine flower for pedestrians to "Walk to the Right." garden in front, and not seeing any one Do they do so ? Not always. Here they about we walked around the back, when walk just where their fancy leads them. a young girl came out and asked if we Up the sides and down the middle. wished to look at the birds? In receiv- Should a party of friends meet, they ing our affirmative reply, she took us •

240 THE MID-PACIFIC

back a little further where we saw a home. Here they will run all over the number of paddocks, and birds galore. side of a house, and bear great large She told us the number, but I neg- and beautiful blossoms. lected to make a note of it and do not Then we walked down to the point now remember, but I know that it which is South Head. The south side mounted up into the hundreds. We saw of the entrance to the harbor. This en- in the paddocks over eighty. There trance is comparatively narrow and on were some with little chicks just hatch- the other side is the North Head. The ed, and they were about the size of full Heads are two towering precipitious grown hens. Then we were invited into cliffs, and with a few guns and tor- the house to see the plumes. pedoes could" hold the entrance against The wife of the owner, an elderly the combined fleets of the world. lady, attended to this department. The In walking along the road from the feathers were beautiful. They do their farm the Pacific is on our right, and own marketing and have no shop or the harbor on the left, and both sides agents in the city. Anyone that want can be seen as you walk along, and as plumes must come out to the farm for you approach the point of course they them. They are thus able to undersell are both to be seen. As we walked along the dealers in the town, and they can we noticed on our right large signs also compete with the African or Cali- several hundred yards away, reading : fornia feathers. We wanted some, but having the fear of the customs before "DANGER !" These we found were on the edge of the cliff which has a pre- our eyes, and not knowing what trouble cipitious side down to the ocean some and delay we might be subject to at the 300 feet below. These signs were erected Customs House in New Zealand, we made haste slowly. shortly before our fleet arrived and were intended for the vast, multitude that We walked back and arriving at the flocked to this point to witness their ar- tram could see the lighthouse about a rival. I do not think that there is any mile ahead, and as it was a good road, other place in the wide world where pleasant day and bracing sea air, and such a large army of people could have wishing to loiter and investigate shrubs gathered with such a grand panorama and flowers by the wayside, we con- before them. Miles and miles out at sea, cluded to keep on walking. then the narrow entrance to the harbor, Arriving at the lighthouse we found and then that vast inland sea called "the that it would be open to visitors at 2 harbor" or Port Jackson. It must have P. M. As it was toward noon we con- been one of the grandest sights pos- cluded to walk on to the point and get sible ; the whole combination, the sea, the some lunch. Finding a little teahouse fleet and the legions. I was told the es- we went in and had a very nice little timated number of people but have for- meal. Here, as we saw almost every- gotten ; but you .can imagine. The whole where, we found the rooms decorated large city and all its suburbs and thou- with the Australian and American flags ; sands and thOusands from all over the entwined, with Teddy Bears and Cocka- continent. The things they told us of toos perched side by side, and often in this grand reception were marvelous. embrace. These were the result of the There was one scene I should have liked visit of our fleet, of which the people to have witnessed. In the grand park could never tire of talking. We sat where the reception ceremonies took beside an open window which was en- place were 5000 children who were ar- bowered with sweet peas, all in gorge- ranged so as to represent the American ous bloom ; how these sweet . peas do and Australian flags. They were so grow here ! At home we can barely get dressed and arranged in the proper colors a blossom, and as I remember now, they and massed closely together so at a dis- never grew very tall at our childhood's tance they looked like a vast painting. •

THE MID-PACIFIC 241

And what a place to see them ! There world. The first on the coast of France was the whole multitude where everyone somewhere ; the second on the Isle of could see,—the flags on a sloping piece Wight. The light is 424 feet above the of ground—and there the beautiful green sea and can be seen forty miles distant. background, bands playing, etc. It must The light itself is an arc electric and have been as much as human feelings the current is generated on the'premises. could stand. Then the children sang ap- Two sets of machinery and two arcs in propriate songs that had been drilled the lantern. The cage containing the into them for weeks by the most skillful prisms is at least 8 feet high, for I stood band masters, and accompanied by large up in it and there was lots of room bands, etc. And to cap the climax, at a above me. Everything was so clean, given signal every child opened a basket even down below, and the winding stairs and let loose a flying white dove. I going up into the lantern. "Spic and should have collapsed I know. To "re- Span." It requires four men four hours soom." At the point we could see down each day just to clean the prisms. With on Watson Bay, and the pretty little one arc light it gives out one million suburb nestled among the cliffs, and em- candle power, and doubled when the two bowered in foliage, and the ferry boats arc are turned on. One cannot conceive going and coming. You can go almost what an amount of light that means. anywhere by ferry boat. They are as Taken all together the buildings con- thick as bees, and make frequent trips, stitute quite a village. Large grounds and run all night, and fare is cheap. We surround it and kept as a park would be, could have gone back by ferry by going with plenty of seats for taking in the down some winding paths, but by the view at ones leisure. From the tower time we got through we were tired en- ough to board a tram and get home. one can see the "whole business." Miles We walked back to the lighthouse. A and miles of city and suburbs. Coming massive stone building and when we down we were positive that we were per- went up into the lantern felt no nervous fectly acquainted with the lay of the fear, for everything looked so strong whole city and surrounding country. and substantial. We went home and were content to call This is the third largest light in the it a whole day and to bed early.

A part of Sydney Harbor. )4? • sl • •

,,:,,,,.... - , - ,--' ,.., . ,„ -47 ' , . , ,,,,„; - , 1, ., '. '---4' ,..i‘.-.Q,,,-; ,,,,,- '...,'7;. $1, t ..'7,...,.4. • 'sj,tf'. , - -. . -, ,' 1A '''.. ' t ,,,.,. ,, lA' A„ ' , ,,,,,, .• ,... „.,, . - . ‘, .,,:/ ,4„.''.„0 THE MID-PACIFIC A.,j lo, w?..'.-,' iky. '114 ;;,. "trt.*4. ..;;4:.;, ' i„7 .riAsp. ''C,4 1r. i4 7, -'''; ''- A'1";',Nr.- '' .'"•..F.3``'r•-•.. :1-'''..,`1:7i. s."4 :-.'74.--- - 4 •.11f. f :-: '4 i. ,,;ti,.-, S, -5„4".+ ;Jr'4'il, -ri •-, : Iiii , \;. 11411111 li ',, , P -litt,*; :. k il ',IT: t A'"‘t- .:,-. lkii. i ll .!elli'• :•-• , tt * *,,,, ' -,••,,X Ri t11111 'il nn-n, ' • ,,,t, ...1*. 14.., 41411+ • IL .1' e,.. .-s:-',:t. ,,,„ .4., ta i Vq- Ai ii ' ' t .;,i. -!, ,. , .; ,..' i.,.. . * : l-43119- '-:,. '..,- ,,,-;:::...., t. ,i4 ,;(1,:, i- - -,i,, , ,' " 7:. *14 '' ',. ' }4** it; 1 ' <°.:, :. ..,::'''', .-'' 0114t,,, °- ''.- :•:-t ‘: ,t i /41,;,iii'' , .. , , - / ' -'-ii • . ,....;,,,,:_, 7-. -f if '..:- ' r . .,_: / \ '■ / :: -',J'i:‘,, 1 -,"'- - ..,%. --, ,'+' , , : jes ‘,. ;_ t, "era --. '.. , , 4 . %' '' 7. ?'.3.-"'!," -.,-,: , :-.-It' ;,14,--;,. 'A , i ....- ° -t:'.4. 40,. ,..-i ;.,..,4. :,...N 1!'....i.,. , k 0i ir4, , 1-..-'.-.1 .'.. 7.s.-4,., ,.,,•`1 1", 4,, '.f.. :y, ..„:..r 1' :•,), ' ,,\ ). ,„,,„ .; . ' ,-,...,.. e.,- ,•v "2,..-. -4: ,,A , ,. ',:- --,.. .-:l, ...,. ,...; •, . li, .... , ...,, T:.-„,ii f ' . :;, ":,.'""•• -: ---" 1 !:!. .. .-Iii'i, i,`,.‘ ,, / %. - , - 4; 4,.--. ,,,,---14'rl ''''T : ,.,,‘"/-/.'',....*.-47. .? 'i ',- ::- 'k'`:-."'..■ 4" - . 4,1,A. Wi7. ,, ": -LAu- f. -'"I !„4. -...4„. y 4, '..."' '-• ••;- .,. ..-...L., ..,,,, '-i.I.7z..'F•;':1'2 '''' -„, ,, ,_., ."*' ' - . The Exper imen' t Station of tt he Hawaiian Sugar Planters Association. is' known the worldo ver—it 1i s in Honolulu.

• •

Sometimes if left too long Sugar Cane tassels.

The Cultivating of Sugar Cane

By ROYAL D. MEAD

N HAWAII improved methods of per acre was a fair average yield. After cultivation followed hand in hand fertilizers came into use and from 1882 I with improved sugar machinery. A to 1889 a yield of three to three and one- great deal of attention has been half tons of sugar per acre was the aver- given to the best varieties of cane to age. The highest average shown since plant. Climate and soil conditions var- accurate statistics have been kept was ied so much in different localities, or four and two-thirds tons, in 1897. even upon the same plantation, that a Improved agricultural implements have variety of cane which might do well at a been brought into use; steam plows were low elevation would give a small yield first introduced about 1880 or 1882, and at a higher elevation, and so while La- various kinds and makes of cultivators haina cane was the favorite cane for and horse-plows have been tried and in- many years and still remains so, in fav- stalled. The investment of the planta- ored localities, other varieties were tried tions in agricultural implements, most of and are yet being tried and experimented which come from the United States, with. reaches a very large sum, and the up- From 1835 up to 1850-1855 with the keep and replacement of such appliances methods of cultivation then in vogue it is a continual expense. was considered that one ton of sugar For many years the principal method

243 • 1

244 THE MID -PACIFIC

of transporting sugar cane from the added to render the best service consti- fields to the mill was by ox-cart or mule tutes a subject of equal importance. teams. As late as 1882 there were only When the Hawaiian Sugar Planters' eight plantations that used steam rail- Association established its experiment ways for transportation. Recent infor- station, in 1895, there began a systematic mation of the mileage of steam railways examination of soils, together with the on plantations is not available, but in collection of data as to rainfall and tem- 1905 there was a total of 534 miles of perature, which has been the basis of permanent track owned by • the planta- much of the fertilizing that has been done tions, eighty-eight locomotives and 7796 since that time. It is due in a very great cars. The investment in rail and rolling measure to these investigations of the stock is thus very considerable. conditions of each plantation that the Many labor-saving devices for use in fertilizers used in one district are so dif- cultivation and harvesting have come ferent from those used in another dis- into general use, but nothing has yet trict, and that there is a constant ten- been invented which will mechanically dency toward highgrade fertilizers which harvest the cane. Cane loaders are in are specially prepared for the planta- use on some plantations, but they do not tions where they are to be applied. greatly reduce the cost of operation. The amount of fertilizer sold in Ha- One of the most important factors in waii has increased tremendously, from the matter of increase of yield due to im- 30,000 in 1885 to 3,000,000 dollars a proved cultivation is the use of ferti- year at present. lizers. Fertilizers were first used on the When the growing of sugar cane was plantations here in 1879. In the Hilo first started on these Islands, the plant- district it became apparent that the soils ings were made on the windward side of were not yielding as well as they had, the islands to take advantage of the rain- and in that year various samples of soil fall, and it was not until some years after at Onomea were sent to New York and the inception of the industry that it be- analyzed, and fertilizers composed large- came evident that the rainfall was not ly of sulphate of lime were recommend- regular enough, excepting in some few ed. From this the question of fertilizer places, to produce the best results in cane grew. With the intensive agriculture culture, and hence the first attempts at practiced in these Islands in the culti- irrigation were accomplished by dam- vation of sugar cane, and, where rota- ming up the streams and leading the tion crops is not followed, it became a water out by means of ditches to the very important problem. Owing to the head of the cultivated lands. wide diversity of climate and soil, condi- One of the most striking features in tions which characterize the sugar lands connection with irrigation and the con- of the country, it became manifest that servation of mountain water is the ex- the subject of fertilization was one which traordinary productiveness of some of must be worked out in large measure for the island watersheds. The Waihee each individual plantation. Not only shed, on Maui, with an area of about must the needs of the crop be taken into four square miles, yields a daily mini- consideration and weighted with rela- mum flow of 17,000,000 gallons, and the tion to the quantity of plant foods stored Olokele shed, on Kauai, with an area of up in the soil, but the form in which the about eight square miles, yields a mini- various. fertilizer ingredients should be mum flow of 40,000,000 gallons and a •

THE MID -PACIFIC 245 mean flow of 70,000,000 gallons in 24 mountain sides percolating through an hours. Each of these watersheds is par- upper broken stratum and being retained ticularly and favorably situated for pre- by a lower stratum of impervious rock. cipitation, with brush-covered steep The machinery installed in the various slopes and with almost daily rainfall. pumping stations is of the most modern Nearly all the Hawaiian streams re- and complete make obtainable lat the spond very quickly to rainfall, rising and present day. The average height to falling quite steadily, while those with a which the water is pumped is, about 20 good, dense, brush-covered watershed feet. hold the volume in streams almost con- The yearly expense of these pumping stantly above a certain minimum. plants is enormous, but the figures are The first ditch for the irrigation of not available. cane was dug at Lihue, Kauai, at a cost Coal costs from $7 to $9 per ton de- of about $7000, in the year 1857. There livered at the furnace, although now a were no engineering difficulties. The large number of pumping stations are results were disappointing at first, due operated with California crude oil, which to ignorance in applying the water, but is provided at a price about equal in value later experience made Lihue one of the to coal at $6 per ton, and the economy in best-paying sugar plantations in the labor by using oil instead of coal is very Islands. marked. In 1882 the editor of the Planters' In 1906 the cost of irrigation systems Monthly issued a solemn warning against installed on 26 plantations was $14,069,- further boring. He stated "it would ap- 804. pear that the sources of supply to the The Planters' Labor and Supply Com- great subterranean reservoir have al- pany disincorporated in 1895, and the ready been taxed to their utmost, or Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Association, a more than that, that the demand is al- voluntary organization of persons and ready greater than the supply, and if corporations interested in the sugar in- artesian wells continue to be bored it will dustry, was formed. This association be but a few years before the wells at the and its predecessor have had for their higher levels will cease to give* forth objects and purposes the improvement of flowing water." the sugar industry, the support of an ex- Notwithstanding this warning the de- periment station, the maintenance of a velopment of artesian wells progressed very steadily, and in 1889 the borings on sufficient supply of labor and the devel- the Island of Oahu had reached the total opment of agriculture in general. The of 103 wells. activities of the two organizations have At the present time the daily amount been along very much the same lines, en- of water pumped from artesian wells on larging and broadening as the industry the Island of Oahu reached about 300,- they represented grew. 000,000 gallons, some being lifted up- In 1908 the capital of forty-six planta- ward of 500 feet. tion corporations nearly all being repre- The artesian supply as found in Oahu sented in the association, was $71,500,- does not appear to exist on any of the 000, and for the same year fifty planta- other islands in the group, and when tions (several being owned by individu- pumping is resorted to, open wells or als) paid taxes, on a combined valuation sumps are excavated, the underground of $69,236,000. In 1907 returns from supply resulting from rainfall on the forty-three plantation corporations and •

246 THE MID-PACIFIC

two private interests showed that these which local fertilizer recommendations interests were divided between 6712 are made. stockholders. Originally the experiment station of Among the achievements of the asso- the Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Associa- ciation, the Planters' Experiment Station tion was concerned only with agriculture in Honolulu stands near the head of the in its restricted sense, but in the early list. The history of this important in- years of the twentieth century it became stitution dates from 1894, when the apparent that economic entomologists Planters' Labor and Supply Company and botanists were equally necessary to determined to engage an experienced combat the insect and fungus pests of agricultural chemist to organize an ex- the field. The work of the station en- periment station and to act as technical tomologists has already become a classic, advertiser to the plantation managers of but will bear repetition. Probably in the archipelago. 1900, the leaf hopper, a small, hemipter- This choice fell to Dr. Walter Max- ous insect, was accidentally introduced' well. from Australia. For some time its pres- The tenure of office of Dr. Maxwell ence passed unnoticed till suddenly, in lasted from 1895 to 1900, during which 1903, the presence of this insect threaten- period time was found to make an ex- ed the existence of the sugar industry ; tensive soil survey of the Hawaiian Isl- and up to and including the year 1904 ands. The results of this study are to the damage done to the crop was esti- be found in "Lavas and Soils of the Ha- mated at approximately $3,000,000. The waiian Islands," a work which has now men controlling the planting interests become classic ; in addition, a detailed adopted the only possible means of ac- study of a number of cane varieties was tion and called in the aid of applied made and much valuable information of science. They were fortunate in having a basic character on plant transpiration at their disposal A. Koebele, who, years and the utilization of water in the pro- before, in California, had h4d the inspir- duction of a crop of cane, was accumu- ation of fighting insect against insect, lated. and R. C. L. Perkins, possessed of an Dr. Maxwell left in 1900 to undertake unrivaled knowledge of the fauna of the a post under the Queensland govern- Hawaiian archipelago. Under the direc- ment, and was succeeded by R. E. Blou- tion of these experts a mission to Aus- in, who, owing to ill health, only remain- tralia was successful in finding parasites ed one year in the Islands. Mr. Blouin of this insect and the introduction and was succeeded by C. F. Eckart, who had dissemination of these, with the assist- been associated with Dr. Maxwell from ance of Messrs. Kirkaldy, Swezey, and the early days of the station. Mr. Eck- Terry of the entomological staff, in a art's first years of office were occupied in short time placed the leaf hopper und( r carrying to completion irrigation and control and removed any danger of de- fertilization experiments along original struction to the industry. lines to test established theories of cane The success that this newly applied fertilization in order to bring about, if method for the control of the leaf hopper need be, a modification of the general pest has had led the sugar interests to practices in vogue. The important attempt a much harder task—that is to nature of these investigations may be say, the search for and introduction of realized when it is considered that prac- parasites of the borer beetle. This in- tically $3,000,000 are spent annually by sect, which is also an introduction from Hawaiian planters for commercial ferti- outside, does annually immense amount lizers. The final results of this latter of damage through the agency of the work, covering a period of nine years, grub or larvae, which eats into and de- yielded conclusions of exceptional value stroys the stalk of the cane. Before pars-. and form a great part of the basis on sites could be introduced it was neces• •

THE MID -PACIFIC 247 sary that the original home of the pest ing from Southern China to New Guinea be located. Two methods of attaining and including the Malay Straits, Java, this end were possible—one, the search Sumatra, and Borneo, F. Muir first through the museum collections of Eu- found the borer beetle in the small island rope and America in the hope of finding of Amboina, in the Dutch East Indies, a specimen with a record of its capture ; and afterward located it in the more ac- and, secondly, a systematized search cessible parts of New Guinea. As has through the tropics of the Orient. Both been anticipated, it was accompanied by methods were adopted, and eventually, a parasite whereby the extent of its dam- after a few years' investigation, extend- age was greatly restricted. .

The Japanese are now the cane loaders. •

248 THE MID-PACIFIC •

The Lagoon.

■ • Pablo Day

By OSCAR VOJNICH

N October 15, we sailed out of "balolo") belongs to the family of mar- the zigzag bay of Sydney on the ine annelids (Eunice virilis), lives on 0 way back to Samoa. After coral rocks, and, at pairing time, gen- staying for some time again at erally on two consecutive days once a the towns of Lautoka, Suva and Levuka, year, comes to the surface (the days are on the Fiji Islands, we arrived at Apia called great and little palolo days)., al- on October 27. On our arrival we were most without exception during the last greeted with the welcome news that the quarter of the moon. next morning there would be palolo- The "palolo" day for the most part oc- catching en gros. .. . But what is the curs towards the end of September at palolo? It is a long, wormshaped, the island of Sawaii (Samoan group), of headless marine creature: once every October at the island of Upolu, and of year it swarms on the surface of some November (occasionally in October) in bays in the Fiji, Samoan, and Gilbert the Fiji Islands—in 1885, "palolo" day Islands. was celebrated on December 25, at the According to observations made by Dr. island of Taviuni (Fiji group). Ac- Friedlander and others, the creature cording to the observations recently called the "palolo" (in the Fiji group made, the front third part of the "palolo"

4-M. P. 249 •

250 THE MID -PACIFIC

never leaves the coral rock : while the company of fishers. The men had come hinder, thin, string-like part which ap- in outriggered canoes ; the girls sat in pears on the surface on two days every boats in threes and fours, with the "ula" year, supplies the spawn for prop_agation. worn on festive occasions or while on The whole creature is about 40 centi- a voyage (malaga) round their necks. metres long,—of which length 10 centi- The "ula" is so essential a part of metres falls to the head and front part, Samoan costume, that it will be proper while the hind part ("palolo") is 30 cen- to devote some space to a short descrip- timetres long: the former part is 4, the tion of the same. The "ula" is made of latter 1 millimetres in diameter. the elongated claret-colored berries of At several islands of the Pacific too a the Eugenia shrub, or of the coral- palolo-like creature appears at intervals : colored clusters of the fruit of the pan- but no zoologist has yet determined danus. Generally either the one or the whether it is the Eunice virilis that is other is strung on a cord ; sometimes found everywhere. There must be some both : and then petals of flowers are put difference between the Samoan and Fiji- in between. an palolos,—at least that is the opinion Girls and women hang an "ula" on of connoisseurs ; who declare that the the necks of relatives and acquaintances former is more palatable. The natives about to set out on a journey : and new' without exception are palolo-eaters : and arrivals are also offered a similar com- many of the white men who have been pliment by their host. A girl in love for some time on the islands identify offers the man of her choice an "ula",— themselves with the taste of the native a gift reciprocated by her admirer. Con- islanders. For this reason, the day on sequently the "ula" is the emblem of which the sea worm appears is a day of courtesy, respect and devotion. And the general fishing. "ula" is of significance not only in the On October 28, about 4 A. M., I Samoan Islands, but also (in a similar rowed out from Apia to the spot fre- sense) in the other South Sea Islands. quented by palolos : notwithstanding the Until sunrise, the hind part of the sd- early hour, I found a few native boats called palolo (Eunice virilis) floats at on the watch for the appearance of the full length on the water. The largest creature. swarm coincides very nearly with the ris- The vanguard of the palolos appears ing of the sun: then the end of the about an hour before sunrise. Our boat swarming comes very rapidly. The was the first to make a catch. Our suc- earthworm-shaped, brown body, which cess was the signal for a lively shout swims in a long line or in serpentine followed by an outburst of cheering from fashion, now breaks up : the separated the other boats. Now everybody set to parts wriggle like rainworms, and when work catching palolos : the catching was the sun has fully risen, cover the wavy done with the hand or, for the most part, spots like greenish-yellow foam. with small butterfly nets, with which they At Apia, the palolo is caught close to hauled out the living spaghetti (palolo), the coral reefs in water a few metres —and every big catch was followed by deep : I did not see any floating about laughter and joking. When the sun had in shallow places. risen, I was better able to observe the The natives either eat the palolo at •

THE MID-PACIFIC 251 252 THE MID-PACIFIC once in the raw state, or boil it. Both S., and longitudes 169 and 171 E. The the dead specimens and the boiled parts aggregate population of the islands is are of a dark green hue. The animal estimated at 6000,—of which number when boiled tastes like boiled spinach. 4500 fall to the islands of Tutuila and The Eldorado of palolo-fishers is the Aunuu. The aggregate area of the western shore of the island of Upolu : islands is put at roughly 136 sq. miles. here the creatures swarm in such num- The only article of export is the "copra" bers over the water that a handkerchief (dried coconut). thrown into the sea is lost to sight a few On October 28, in the evening, I inches below the surface. started on the Maori, and on the next According to the observations I made, day, at dawn, we arrived at Pago-Pago, the palolos for the most part appear on the port of the island of Tutuila (Ameri- the surface of the water in large shoals, can Protectorate). The fjord of Pago- a fact that is perhaps due to the action Pago, which stretches far inland, is an of the waves. ideal harbour : the hills overgrown with I put a few whole palolos on my bush surround the bay so completely, handkerchief : on touching them, they that the sea water is as smooth as a mir- broke to pieces at once, and a thick yel- ror. To the right of the entrance, along low liquid issued from the broken parts. the foot of the steep hill, native houses On the "palolo" day, in warm calm lie scattered, while along the quay to the weather, huge waves of surf were break- left built at great expense, may be seen ine over the coral reef. According to the dwellings of the naval officials, the the ideas current among the Samoans, offices, the hospital, and the only hotel : this high swell is connected with the ap- to the left, on a projecting ridge, the pearance of the palolos : they believe palace of the Governor too has been that the arrival of the palolo adds to the built. The funnels of the warship size of the ocean. If we put it the other Annapolis were smoking lazily on the way round, we shall probably not be far calm, smooth water of the bay. off the truth : for the final development The United States possesses few colon- of the palolo, which is now ripe for ies of a more charming and cultivated propagation, in all probability there is nature. From the highest official down- need of a warm day, while the rising to wards, everybody comes to the assistance the surface of the creatures can be aided of travelers : and during my sojourn by the surf( ?). there of two days, I never once heard Apia and Pago-Pago are connected by things judged by the "money" standard, the S. S. Maori, of 400 tons burden. —a state of things which is a rarity The Maori is an old hulk ; but she is among Americans. quite seaworthy enough for a voyage of On the 28th, in sunny weather, the 70 miles, especially in the Samoan Isl- life in the bay was a delight to witness : ands, where the communication between but next day we had a dose of the Pago- the various islands is still kept up by Pago showers. The clouds chased each small sailing-boats and row boats. The other through the entrance to the bay, Tutuila, Aunuu, Manua and Rose group pouring their abundant fountains on the of islands under American supremacy peaceful colony which was already ac- are situate between latitudes 14 and 14.5 customed to weather of the kind. •

THE MID-PACIFIC 253

In the Pago-Pago Hospital I made group consisting of the islands of Tau, the acquaintance of an interesting indi- Oloosega and Ofu, but of the whole vidual,—Tuimanua, the king of the group of Samoan Islands. The island Manua islands, who resided on the isl- king was there with a large suite : his and of Manua, about 60 sea miles to the subjects visited him from time to time, east of the island of Tutuila, was a pa- coming from the Manua islands. Dur- tient in one of the wards. His ancestors ing my stay there, two boats arrived, of old ruled not only over the Manua laden with comestibles.

Getting ready for the Palolo. 254 THE MID-PACIFIC

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Lahaina, the old Capital of Hawaii, on the Island of Maui, is still the summer home of Queen Liliuokalani. No such coconut groves grow anywhere on the islands as they do here. •

The fish market, Lahaina.

Lahaina Days

By JAMES W. GIRVIN

ROM the anchorage, which is in houses lined the beach for a distance the roadstead, Lahaina appeared of more than four miles, from which it F to be embowered in trees, appeared that the inhabitants preferred amongst which the breadfruit, co- to live near the shore. On going ashore, conut, kukui and mango maintained the however, I was suprised to find that the supremacy. Situated at the base of a umbrageous foliage concealed the greater serrated range of mountains, which were part of the town. Streets there were clothed in verdure from the peaks to the along which adobe buildings, in every sea, it presented the most charming stage of decay or dilapidation, ranged aspect. Many grass huts and a few frame themselves.

255 •

256 THE MID-PACIFIC

The first impression the visitor gained the owners, who talked freely with me of was that when a building fell there it the news of the mainland. After assert- was a public improvement. Lahaina had ing my capabilities as a farmer, I made been the capital, and in its day boasted inquiry as to the possibilities of getting of the "halepiula," or palace of the king. employment. I was promptly answered Evidently the foreigner had brought that they had no work for me, firstly be- there, in earliest days, the art of build- cause I did not understand the work, nor ing houses from adobe, as practiced by the language, and could not therefore act the Spaniards in California. These as a luna or overseer, and they would buildings, when kept in repair and the not let a white man work in the fields as scoving or surface of plaster maintained, a common laborer. Neither could they present a handsome appearance, but when place me as a teamster or as a laborer in the thatched roof is allowed to fall off or the sugar house. They had natives for get out of repair, are very quickly de- teamsters, and Chinamen for dryers and stroyed by the fierce tropical rains. 'packers, and the only white men on the The coming of our schooner had ap- place were the overseers and mechanics. parently brought out all the inhabitants I told the planter that I was a practical of the town and the surrounding country, farmer, and could do any part of the and I was surprised to note the great agricultural work on the plantation. number of horses and riders dressed in That I was extremely anxious to get the gayest of colors. I afterwards learn- work, as I had a wife and two children ed that every man, woman and child in Honolulu to support, and that I would owned a horse, pasturing it on any one's be content with a very small salary until land. The natives appeared very friend- such times as my services were appre- ly, none failing to wish me a hearty ciated. The planter informed me that "aloha." I found lodgings in a house there were no accommodations on the surrounded with canefields, and after a place for a white woman, and they could bath and change of clothing proceeded to not employ me. find a restaurant. My first impressions Crestfallen I walked away down to- of Lahaina were extremely pleasant, and wards the beach, where I chatted with an I hoped to be able to find employment American storekeeper. On inquiry as to there. Chinese restaurants were numer- the consumption of vegetables and from ous, but I found an old Dutch baker whence they came, I was assured that who kept a coffee shop, and who had the they did not use much in that line, and reputation of making the best bread on that beef and Lanai mutton and taro the islands. Perhaps I did not do justice were the mainstay of Lahaina. Taro to that first meal? grew prolifically in the concealed valleys On the way up to the sugar mill to back of the town, and potatoes came seek employment, I did not fail to notice from Kula on the other side of the island. the thriftiness of the cane on either side I seemed to be balked at every turn. of the road, and the innumerable stalks I remarked that I saw overseers riding which sprang from one hill. It was all round herding Chinese and natives, and I under irrigation and grew in trenches reckoned I could do that kind of• work, where the water was permitted to settle or handle the plow. away. Arrived at the mill, I met one of "Ah, my dear sir," said the storekeep- THE MID - PACIFIC 257 er, "you cannot talk the language, and, employment as surveyors, and some went moreover, there is not a plow on the into law or the pulpit, the majority, how- plantation." ever, drifting back to their ordinary mode Was it possible this great crop of cane of life. was planted by hand labor ? Yes, the Lahaina appeared to have every ad- lands which aggregated this great plan- vantage for sugar culture, not only from tation were all trenched by shovel and its rich soil, abundance of water and mattock. The expense was enormous, proximity to the landing, but from the but I was informed that one planting was natural lay of the land, the cane getting sufficient from which to cut cane for five the benefit of the sun until the last minute years, and there was some that had not of the day. The heat at midday was been replanted in sixteen years. The something remarkable, but the mornings second and succeeding crops were called and evenings were delightful. In the rattoons, which, if well cared for and evening I met an old missionary, one of frequently irrigated, produced almost as the class I had read so much of in my much as that from the first planting. earlier days. I was invited to call and I reckoned I would have the proper met the missionary's wife and daughter. kind of plow at work if I was the owner. They chatted familiarly with me, and I suggested that I could learn the langu- could not realize the barrier which stood age and cane culture. between me and an opportunity to earn "No doubt of that," said the merchant, a livelihood. The house was one of those "but you will find that planters are not old adobe .or stone buildings, carefully breaking in white men." whitewashed, and having green blinds. Poor white men were looked at suspi- Standing back from the street it had the ciously, unless they were mechanics. appearance of comfort and home. There certainly seemed no show for me. In after years, in riding to Lahaina on I wandered around the plantation ob- jury duty or court business, it seemed to serving the manner in which the cane loom up as a place where true rest from was planted and studying the plant itself. the heat of the road or business cares was Also I ascended towards Lahainaluna, certain. They showed me many curios the college where native graduates from from the northern seas, presented by the common schools were finished off. I their whaling friends, and also many rare noted the source of the streams which ir- shells and curios from the south, which rigated the fields, and saw that Lahaina had been sent by brother missionaries. was most aptly situated for an immense They admitted that I was the stamp of a rich plantation. On calling at the col- man the country was in need of, and lege Lwas pleasantly entertained by the urged me to keep up my courage and I principal, and shown through the rooms, •would get an opportunity to show my and the nature of the studies of the worth. The old missionary remarked young men. The teaching was in native, "That Hawaii was a country where a and the scholars appeared very intelli- man found his level sooner than in any gent. They did their own planting of other." taro and sweet potatoes, and their friends How we do love sympathy? It ap- furnished them some fish and meats, and peared that the few words of sympathy altogether the tuition and living cost very extended to me by these old people had little. Many of the graduates obtained done me more good than anything that •

278 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID- PACIFIC 259 had happened since my arrival at Hono- would the result be if a little brains and lulu. They invited me to breakfast, but push were added ? I declined on the ground that I wished How delightful the early morning to make an early start for the other side hours are on the islands ! The road along of the island. They said their boys were which I walked was a path through the engaged as overseers on some of the Garden of Eden. The hedges on both plantations over there, but knew they sides of the road were covered with could be of no assistance, as they were vines of the wild nasturtium and convol- not sure of their own tenure of office, in vulus, and innumerable hibiscus and pa- that it had been decided to reduce the paia trees shed the fragrance of their number of employes. A kind farewell, blossoms on the morning air. Trees and an urgent invitation to make their loaded with mangoes, coconuts, papaias house my home wherever I might come and castor and croton oil nuts or beans, to Lahaina again, and I was gone. together with the mass of mimosa and At daylight I started with my roll of mesquite beans, proclaimed that nature blankets on my back on the way to Wai- was doing her best to make "life in the luku. As I tramped the roads at that tropics" easy for man. The sky was full early hour I noticed the laxity of disci- of light from the rising sun, which is in- pline amongst the laborers and the indif- visible here until quite late on account ferent manner in which the cane was of the height and proximity of the moun- cared for. tain. The eternal lap-lap of the wave- How my fingers itched to get a chance lets on the beach, together with the in- at improvements ? I was a true farmer, numerable sounds of awakening animal and knew that one hour's work at dawn life, united to produce a charming pic- was worth two at noon. I saw where I ture of an earthly heaven. As I strolled considered mistakes were made in laying along the Lahaina beach and out through out rows of cane, that they might obtain Olowalu and Ukumehame I remarked the best results from irrigation as well as that some day there would be a large full play for the circulation of the regular plantation established here. winds. I had an idea that, next to water, As I reached the top of the mountain air had most to do with the cultivation of at Manawainui and caught a view of the sugar. I enquired continually as to the Wailuku kula or plain, and got my lungs best season for planting, stripping, cut- filled with the invigorating trade winds ting, etc., etc., and also noticed a differ- I felt glad that I had failed in Lahaina. ence in canes as to color of stalk and size Here was scope for the imagination. Here of leaf. were thousands of acres of unoccupied Men did not appear to know much land covered with a magnificent robe of about sugar, or perhaps were not as ob- emerald. Could it be that men had failed serving as they should be. I recognized to obtain possession of this immense that the industry was in its infancy. My tract, or was there some obstacle in the time was not all lost I saw the abuse of way ? Here was room for an immense the animals on the plantation ; evidently plantation, probably 20,000 acres. Sugar they would not live out half the natural yielded two and one-half tons to the acre, work life. I saw the waste of time by and sold at $240 per ton, while the cost the employes, as well as of the animals. of raising did not exceed $100. My Carts with a wheelbarrow load, and carts Yankee brain was at work, and while overloaded, were being driven helter cogitating matters the ground passed skelter to the mill. I saw men and wom- behind me in such strides that I had en idling away their time in the fields, reached the Waikapu stream before I was and saw cane growing from roots so old aware of it. Slaking my thirst and bath- that it evidently had not produced its irig my head and face, I felt refreshed, maximum for the past four years. and pushed on to Wailuku, on the op- And yet the owners got rich. What posite side of the island from Lahaina. •

260 THE MID-PACIFIC •

•

The End of the Wall, Manila.

From the Philippines to Japan

By CHAS. S. LOBINGRER

HE United States government ward from Manila and visiting the provides its judicial servants in Asiatic .points en route. But when we T the Philippines with a vacation came to consider how much this would leave of five months every third delay our arrival in the homeland and year with the expectation that it be spent how it would bring us there in midsum- outside of the islands in recuperative mer when the weather would be least preparation for the next tour of service. tolerable and many of our friends would My first leave accrued in 1907, and as this be absent on their vacation we decided to was my first long absence from the reverse the route and visit the homeland homeland I naturally decided to spend first. my first vacation there. But long be- We left the Philippines on April 15, fore the second leave accrued in 1910 we thus escaping most of the hot season had planned to devote it to a tour of the which begins that month, but which came world which should include the realiza- on later than usual. The big army trans- tion of a long cherished dream of travel port Logan which bore us out of Manila through Europe. Our original idea was Bay had lain the night before at Mari- to follow the beaten track of travel and veles, the Quarantine Station, in full view take the European trip first, going west- of Corregidor Island, which is fast be-

261 •

262 THE MID-PACIFIC

coming Uncle Sam's Gibraltar. Indeed and surroundings even for Japan. The when the fortifications now in process of town, too, has an interesting history for construction are completed, Corregidor it was both the first and the last place will, in the judgment of military experts visited by Europeans under the old re- be even more impregnable than the fa- gime before our Commodore Perry came. mous fortress which Britain wrested from It was discovered by the Portuguese Spain in the eighteenth century. I had Galvao in 1542 and visited seven years held a special term of court at Corregidor later by the famous Jesuit missionary Island in the preceding July and was Francisco Xavier, who engaged in prose- amazed at the stupendous proportions of lying for a couple of years. By 1581 the its works and equipment. Any faint- Jesuits claim to have had 1,150,000 con- hearted American who questions the per- verts. But the progress of the new faith manency of our country's mission in the alarmed the ruling class and brought of- Orient should visit Corregidor and have ficial opposition. In 1624 Christianity his doubts dispelled by the frowning forts was prohibited, much as Freemasonry is and the giant guns which command the today, and in 1640 the Portuguese en- mouth of Manila Bay and render it im- voys who had been sent to seek a modifi- possible for the strongest fleet to enter cation of the policy were executed and against the will of Uncle Sam. the country closed to all foreigners ex- During that day and most of the next cept a few Dutch traders who were per- our ship steamed northward along the mitted to reside on a fortified island in Philippine coast, a tranquil sea and a de- Nagasaki harbor. Remains of the fort lightful breeze combining to make the are still shown and for more than two voyage pleasant and restful. On Satur- centuries its occupant$ were the 'sole day, April 7, about 6 A. M. we sighted medium of communication between Ja- Formosa (Portuguese for beautiful) pan and the western world with a few ceded to Japan as a result of the war exceptions like the shipwrecked English with China in 1894, and until about 3 in sailor, Will Adams, cast ashore in the the afternoon we were sailing near its seventeenth century (whom the Japanese eastern coast. This was my first view compelled to teach them certain branches of the island, though I had twice passed of shipbuilding and whose grave is shown off the west coast, at a distance. I found near Enoshima) or the German savant it interesting to compare the landscape Von Siebold who was allowed to live at with the Philippines and to note how Narytaki near Nagasaki early in the nine- much the lofty Formosan mountains, teenth century. Murray in his guide with picturesque valleys between, re- book of Japan says that the locality known sembling those of northeastern Luzon. as Urakami Onsen, about five miles from The natives, too, are said to be similar Nagasaki, and noted for its cold, saline to the head hunters of our Philippine spring and baths, is inhabited by Roman mountain region and have given their Catholics and adds "Christianity seems Japanese conquerors no end of trouble. never to have been entirely eradicated It seems that the Japanese Parliament here notwithstanding the ruthless perse- has only recently made a large appro- cutions of the faith in the first half of the priation for exterminating the Formo- seventeenth century." san "savages" although Japanese writers Curious to behold these descendants of had long been telling the world how persecuted victims of the old regime I thoroly subjugated and satisfied were the made the trip to Urakami Onsen while Formosans. our ship lay at anchor, but failed to verify A voyage of about five days from Ma- Murray. The inhabitants may be of the nila brought us to Nagasaki, the south- faith he mentions, but I saw no building ernmost town of Japan proper. It is which resembled a church and in no situated on the large island of Kyushu place, though I entered several, did I find and has an unusually picturesque harbor priest, cross or crucifix. The people and THE MID-PACIFIC 263 the houses appear to be no different from is northward along the east coast of those of the ordinary Japanese village, Japan's largest island, most of the time but the scenery is highly picturesque and in full view of the snow capped summit I felt well repaid for the walk, though of Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of the caught in the rain while returning. We Japanese. At Yokohama we are once also made the trip in jinrikashaws (sulkies more on historic ground for it was at drawn by coolies) to Mowgi the fishing this place, then an insignificant fishing village on the east side of the mountain. village, that Commodore Perry in 1853-4, I had made this journey on my first visit first broke the silence of more than two to Japan nearly six years before but that centuries and forced the Shogun to re- was in the Fall. Now the trip had a ceive him. Yokohama is now a large new charm for it was balmy Spring and and flourishing city. On the "bund" or the famous Japanese cherry trees were water front are substantial buildings, not yet out of bloom. mostly of foreign ownership, including A good point from which to view the fine, modern hotel. On the bluff, Nagasaki as a whole is from the site of where most of the foreign residents are the Shinto temples, themselves very in- situated, the United States government teresting, on the hill to the north. maintains a naval hospital—a fact which During both evenings of our stay I surprises most American civilians in as rode around the city in a rickashaw and much as the institution would be wholly was rather surprised at its orderliness useless to us in case of trouble with and quiet. The secret of this appears to Japan. There has been some talk lately be in the well regulated police system. I of removing this hospital to Baguio, the called on the chief of police and was summer capital of the Philippines where courteously shown over the station. I it would be in our own territory as well also called at the court building and was as in a cool, mountain climate and where invited by the presiding judge of the an army hospital is already maintained. court of appeal for the district (he From Yokohama it is only about a speaks considerable English) to witness half-hour by train to one of the most in- a session of the criminal branch. The teresting spots in Japan, Kamakura. It judges and lawyers all wear caps and was once the seat 'of the Shogunate and gowns after the fashion of continental there are various temples of the Shinto, Europe. Counsel for the accused read or primitive Japanese national religion, monotonously from a brief, never lifting and other structures including the stately his eyes to the court. Counsel for the arches for which Japan is famous. More Government sat on the bench with the attractive than all, however, is the won- judges and there was no attempt at ora- derful "Dai Butsu" or colossal bronze tory on either side. statue of the Buddha situated on an emi- From Nagasaki to Yokohama the route nence in a tiny park, a jewel with an is through the beautiful inland sea with emerald setting. The statue is of such picturesque scenery and highly cultivated size that its base constitutes a temple and landscapes on either side. The next im- pilgrims come from long distances to portant stop is Kobe situated about mid- worship there. In Japan as well as China way between the east and west coasts. the acceptance of one religion does not Like Nagasaki it has a fine English club necessarily require the rejection of an- and one of the points of interest for other and Buddhism flourishes side by tourists is a silvery waterfall in the hills side with Shintoism, which however is a considerable distance back of the town. little more than ancestor-worship, its rites Not far from Kobe is the important being observed even by Buddhists as a manufacturing town of Osaka where a matter of patriotism. As I stood in this Japanese exposition was held some years beautiful park watching the pilgrims and ago. studying the statue I could not but con- After leaving the inland sea the course trast the benign and placid countenance •

2(4 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID -PACIFIC 265

of the Buddha as there portrayed, with bility and adaption to the changed policy the rather repulsive representations of of the new regime. At Tokio we were him that one finds in the Chinese temples, hospitably entertained at luncheon at the and I could well appreciate the feelings American •embassy and later visited the that prompted Kipling's rapturous poem, Shiba temples (Buddhist) where we written after visiting (if not upon) this were required to remove our shoes be- very spot "Buddha at Kamakura." fore entering, and the Shinto temples in Returning to Yokohama we took the Ueno park. We also saw the emperor's train to Tokio, distant about one hour. place, the Imperial University and the The name Tokio means "eastern capital" law courts building. With the exception and is used in contradiction to Kyoto, the of the last there is nothing architecturally western or old capital, where the Mikado pretentious in any of these. In fact the lived in seclusion before the civil war of whole city of Tokio is rather disappoint- 1868 which overthrew the Shogunate ing to one who has visited the other and, after seven centuries of submerg- parts of Japan. It is populous, covers a ence, restored the Mikado to his ancient large area and is to a certain extent power. At the close of the struggle the modernized, with electric cars, wide Mikado moved his capital to what was streets, etc. But one misses the air of then the rather insignificant Yeddo, but antiquity, the curious architecture and which was renamed Tokio, the site being the historic spots that combine to con- chosen doubtless for its greater accessi- stitute the chief charm of the older cities.

5-M. P. •

266 THE MID-PACIFIC • • • E •

-

__

lauea. ,.. Ki t a •

, " '' f fire • -... o ke It, la t ■ ' - . + ' 7 he f t - : - - • 1 o • - . t : . . - ' 1

- - ou -

; va -. . ' ' . 1 .. . 1- la .. - -. 6 4 :1J lten 0

. ; .

23 _ . . .., -, • mo - .< .

up -

...... , ,. dip , may

r ou

fi, - - h y hen , w es im f t , are re

. _ .. - , The

y a er .. . . a . s r '

' .. .. . k. e Z • • The lake of fire at night.

A Mid-Night Vigil in a Volcano

By GEO. B. THAYER

OON after 3 o'clock on Thursday feet across and something like 400 feet afternoon, June 27th, I sat down deep. The approach to it is over a fairly S on the edge of the crater of Kila- level bed of dead lava and the sides of uea, the biggest active volcano in the pit are nearly perpendicular. At the the world, and I remained there for ten bottom the dead lava has crumbled down hours, till 1 o'clock the next morning. the sides, forming a shore around the The last two hours I never once moved sides of the pit some fifty feet wide and from my seat. And this is what I saw, enclosing a lake of live lava perhaps written down at the time, as I saw it : twenty acres in extent. - The volcano is on the island of Hawaii, By daylight the color of the lake, when the largest of our Hawaiian group, and is the melted mass is quiet, is like that of six days out from San Francisco. The melted lead, but, as the day begins to crater is more like a circular pit, 1000 darken down in the pit, the color, when

267 268 THE MID -PACIFIC

the lake is quiet, changes to a purple and into the cavern and against the shore, dull red. The supply of fresh lava seems the waves flowing up over the beach and to rise from the depths of the lake to the receding again. The increased flow into surface at a point, near the shore, al- the cavern seems to have lowered the most directly below where I sit. The level of the lake, for the beach seems to mass, as it slowly rises, quickly crusts overhang the lake some ten feet, the over and floats off across the lake, in waves dashing up under the beach and great sheets, towards a cavern on the dripping down again. shore directly across the pit from where The whole lake is now active, the cen- I am. The moving mass, as it approaches ter covering perhaps an acre in area, ex- the cavern, begins to crack open and ploding constantly and in four other wrinkle up and when close to the mouth spots eruptions are sending lava into the of the cavern, it is blown into the air, air in chunks. The sound is something splashing up over the roof and inside up like the swash of the sea, somewhat sub- against the ceiling of the cavern, dripping dued, not so thin, but the same deep con- down into a great well hole beneath. stant roar. The explosions make the pit as bright, Eight eruptions out in the lake are now almost, as day, for the lava, when thrown taking place, each disturbance being some into the air, is at a white heat. fifty feet in diameter. The lava is being The center of the lake has just ex- thrown into the air fully fifty feet in ploded, sending clots of lava into the air queer shaped clots and chunks. The some fifty feet or more. The flow, for a level of the lake is rising and breaking time, is now up against the shore to the out and overflowing the beach all around left of the cavern and the cavern itself is the shore. The heat where I sit is per- clogging up as the lava flows in, filling it ceptibly increasing. The dark shore back nearly to the ceiling. For a moment or some distance from the edge of the lake two there are no eruptions anywhere and is cracking and the ugly red beneath is so the flow into the cavern has ceased. A distinct, now that it is dark. The area of butterfly has just been blown out across the lake is constantly enlarging and the the pit. I wonder if it will reach the level, in places, has risen ten feet or other side? more. The explosions lighten up the An explosion has blown the cavern black sides of the pit vividly and the oc- clear again, plastering the ceiling, roof casional drift of steam clouds from the and shore on either side with a pinkish steam cracks a short distance back of white coating of lava and letting the flow where I sit have a pinkish tinge as they rush into the cavern again with increased float out across the pit. speed. The force of the explosion has The other tourists have gone. The sent a wave back towards the center of seven mile auto ride back and the good the lake, breaking up the crust into small dinner at the Volcano House had no at- cakes. The whole lake now seems bent traction compared to that of remaining on rushing into the cavern. The explo- longer, so I am alone. The pocket full sions are frequent and extend along the of raisins I have will do for supper and shore on each side of the cavern. The on the walk back, in the mud and perhaps rushing waves are constantly breaking up rain, does not stir up any dread. Occa- the crust and sending the lava dashing sionally some falling rocks down the side THE MID- PACIFIC 269 of the pit into the lake cause me to look plosions of gas from the depths of the around into the dark behind me, for I throat have continued now for half an have not yet accurately located the direc- hour, with scarcely any cessation. tion of all the strange sounds I hear. The shore on each side of the open Scarcely a minute of quiet all around mouth for a distance of four or five hun- the lake occurs now. In the center the dred feet is now in a constant state of eruptions take place practically once a explosions and the lava is being thrown minute. When the lake is quiet the sur- up on the beach and against the cliffs in face is seen dotted full of bright, red clots and masses that assume, while in spots, all drifting in one direction, like the air, the forms of animals, human constellations, across the lake. The heads, fruit, etc. The mass holds to- twenty acres, when it is allowed to re- gether till it strikes upon the beach when main quite long enough, cracks up into it spreads out flat and stiffens instantly. big, irregular shaped, black blocks, and Where it is thrown against the face of zigzag red edges reminding me of the the cliff, it continues to drip for a time wooden block puzzles I used, as a boy, to but in all cases it begins to cool and con- try and fit together. The lava is con- sequently soon assumes a different stantly crusting over when left to itself. shade of red. So, along the shore for It is 11 o'clock. The explosions down seven or eight hundred feet the beach in the throat of the cavern are increasing and cliffs are continually being plastered in violence. The whole lake is surging with clots of lava, changing in color, as in that direction and the lava has begun it cools, from pinkish white to bright, dull to flow into the fifty foot wide open and dark red till it assumes the black of mouth more rapidly. From where I am the walls of the pit itself. looking down into the throat through the A new feature begins now to present glasses, the river of red, as it enters the itself. Out near the center of the lake opening, seems to rush over a precipice floating geysers have begun to appear. and disappear down into a great, dark These fountains of fire, some twenty-five hole. Strong currents of gasses seem to feet high and fully twice as large in be rushing upwards, also, from this hole, area of eruption, keep up a constant state for the dark blocks or sheets of lava, as of activity as they float from the center they flow into the open mouth, remain of the lake towards the wide open mouth. for a time suspended over the hole be- As I write these words there are three fore breaking up. Then they fly into of these geysers slowly drifting towards hundreds of pieces and go down with their goal, the open mouth, and they al- the rest of the flood of fire. Frequently, ways make trouble when they reach it. however, the crust of lava is so thick The mouth seems to be changing too. that, as it flows into the opening, it floats A portion of the upper lip gum has been out over the hole and is blown up and out blown out, leaving two immense teeth like a black rubber blanket, holding to- hanging down. The level of the lava, as gether tenaciously till, like a balloon, it it flows into the mouth, is rising so that, nearly fills the great mouth. Then it as the explosions down in the throat oc- bursts and splashes over everything, in- cur, the lava is blown out through the side and out, leaving the roof of the openings each side of the teeth with such great mouth dripping with hundreds of force as to send chunks and a fine spray pinkish white stalactites and the upper of fire out nearly to the middle of the lip plastered over with clots of bright red. lake. This rush into the opening and the ex- Midnight—Something has given away 270 ' THE MID-PACIFIC

on the shore close to the other side of the Suddenly, up from the depths of that mouth. The shore looks as if it had been awful throat comes a terrific roar and undermined and had fallen in. For a instantly every one of the thousands of distance of four hundred feet or more the dazzling white stalactites, every dripping lava is rushing along the shore towards point or projection along the pinkish the mouth as if the whole lake was sud- white shore, every jagged crack in the denly bent on emptying itself. Waves surface of the purple, dark red crust out twenty-five feet high are dashing up into the lake, is painted with a border or against the banks. Three big floating fringe of rich green, and this, in turn, geysers are rapidly approaching from the with a band of blood red. center of the lake. Great sheets of black At 1 o'clock the next morning, when I crust are floating into the open mouth, finally turned away from the volcano, now nearly double the width it recently the full moon was hid behind clouds and was and as they are buoyed up and float soon the heavy mist turned to rain. I out over the great throat and swell up might have saved some four miles had I and burst, the lava is blown out over the known the trail across the lava but, as it lake nearly to its center. Still the boil- was, I had to take the road, seven miles, ing, bursting roaring flow of fire con- in the rain, back to the Volcano House. tinues on down the rapids towards the Suddenly, about 2 o'clock, while I was throat and explosion after explosion from splashing along in the mud and numer- the depths of that throat sends the lava ous puddles, pleasantly absorbed in re- back over the dark surface of the lake in calling what I had seen, some animal showers of fire. The level of the lake came crashing through the woods and has lowered, perceptibly, leaving, for a underbrush towards the road just ahead. distance of three or four hundred feet It was an ox, wild with fear but no more each side of the mouth, the shore line jut- filled with it than I was, for the moment, ting out over the flowing lava under- as the ox sprang out into the road and neath it. faced me. My pace I never slackened I must go. It is 1 o'clock. One last for an instant but, drawing a long breath, look! A river of dark, ugly red, some I expelled the night air again with all the four hundred feet wide, is flowing down lungs I had, yelling, "Shoo," with all my towards the enlarged, wide open mouth might. and bearing along on its surface three What else could I do, only make a big floating geysers, each sending liquid fire noise, as big as I could ; I had nothing in fountains some fifty feet into the air. else to defend myself with, except noise. As this river approaches the mouth it That was enough, however. The ox gave begins to break up and burst and dash up one snort, wheeled around and went against and along the shore in waves down the road like mad. For an instant twenty-five feet high or more. It begins I felt relieved but only for a time. In a to contract and clog up as it rushes into few minutes, as I splashed along, that the mouth and somewhat narrower throat same ox appeared in the dark just ahead, btit only for a time. Explosion after ex- standing squarely in the middle of the plosion down in the throat sends the road and, as before, facing and waiting pinkish white mass as it is coughed up, for me. Again my heart came up as far out of the mouth in all directions, plaster- as it could get and again I filled up with ing the shore and cliffs and sending a the night air. As a boy I was always tidal wave back towards the center of the told night air was dangerous and it lake. The under side of the projecting seemed the ox thought so too, for, when bank, for some six hundred feet along I again exploded, the ox turned once the shore of the lake and the under side more and disappeared. About half a of the roof of the big mouth, at each ex- mile further on, in the dark, I imagined plosion, is left dripping with thousands the ox had again halted and I exploded of white stalactites. at once. But this explosion proved pre- THE MID -PACIFIC 271 mature. In fact, I saw no more of the plain view of the inner or active crater. ox, though my ammunition was ever The floor of the outer crater is a black, kept ready till the hotel was reached. twisted, wrinkled, bulging, choppy sea, Thereafter, during the four days and crossed by numerous cracks too wide to the four nights, each till close to mid- jump over and sometimes too hot to look night, that the volcano drew me to it, I down into. Six times I crossed this sea followed the trail across the outer crater, till even, without the light of the moon, now a deep pit nearly 1,000 feet deep and perhaps five miles in diameter. A zigzag I easily found my way, though once, at path leads down from the Volcano House the hotel, they made me take a lantern I which is located close to the rim and in never lighted.

Boiling Pit of Kilauea. I

272 THE MID-PACIFIC

Statue of Columbus, Maracaibo, Venezuela. •

The Columbus Monument in Mexico.

Columbus in Pacific Statuary

(By a member of the Pan-American Union Staff)

HRISTOPHER Columbus was a ence of the vast continent to the north Latin, whether he be considered of the Caribbean Sea and the West In- as a native of Italy, where un- dia Islands. He had been to England C doubtedly he spent his early boy- and at one time in despair had applied hood, or serving under the flag of Portu- to the Court of England to help him in gal, where hig maturing manhood years his great ambition, but his experience • prepared him for the incomparable tri- and his fame were Latin. umphs he secured for the home of his Perhaps on this account the name final adoption, Spain, Latin America, Columbus is incorporated more promin- too, was the area over which his dis- ently in the nomenclature of Latin coveries were extended, for it is a fact America than in that of Anglo-Saxon that he had no knowledge of the exist- America. The Republic of Colombia

273 274 THE MID-PACIFIC

bears witness to the honor with which monuments to the respect and honor in he was held from the beginnings of in- which they hold Columbus. dependence in the Western World. To- The custom of preparing effigies in day the one-time insignificant little port stone, so that the names and achieve- in Panama, Colon, at the northern en- ments of a nation's heroes may be passed trance of the canal, indicates another on to posterity, finds its origin in most attempt to perpetuate the name of ancient times. It is but natural that this Columbus in a geographical way. Other custom should have been followed in the countries have districts or rivers, public case of Columbus. Today we find statues parks and theaters, with the name of erected to the Discoverer in Italy, Spain, Colon, and it would seem to be in Span- and France, and in nearly all of the ish, as its equivalent, Colombo, is in countries of the New World. Portuguese, a mark of affection as well as of honor for the discoverer of At Genoa, which city claims the honor America. or being the birthplace of Columbus, there has been erected a very magnificent The United States has given his name statue, which overlooks the bay. It was to the District of Columbia as soon as completed and dedicated on November the founders of this Republic could con- 9, 1862, although the foundation had sider designations apart from those in- been laid as far back as 1846. The in- herited from provincial days. As the scription it bears is : "To Cristopher country grew in area, towns were named Columbus, the Fatherland." Spain, Columbus, and the designation of the which country failed the Genoese during Federal District, which was to be the his lifetime, has been more generous to seat of government, shows that the dis- his memory, and here are many shafts coverer was not forgotten on the con- raised to record the greatness of his tinent that once might have been his. deed. Perhaps, however, the greatest compli- In the New World nearly every coun- ment to the memory of Columbus is that try has testified in recognition of the implied in the poetical appellation "Columbia," the allegorical name given deed of Columbus by the erection of to the United States. some character of monument. From the magnificent effigy which graces the cen- There can be no denying the fact that ter of Columbus Circle in New York to the recognition of the great achievement the simple shaft which marks the spot of the admiral has been tardy. It is well of the supposed first landing on Watlings known, however, that often the delayed Island, we find a great number of statues judgment of history alone awards to erected in honor of the discoverer. Even great men the honor they deserved. We the English have done honor to the are all so familiar with the story of navigator at Nassau in the Bahama Isl- Columbus, as it has been handed down ands and at Trinidad ; and the people of to us, that there is no need here to re- Santo Domingo have also raised splendid count the many injustices which he suf- monuments ; while in Cuba, where, in fered at the hands of his contemporaries. the Cathedral at Habana, the bones of The salient fact that he was shorn of his Columbus were so long interred, there honors and returned to Spain, an igno- are a great many representations of this minious prisoner, laden with chains, historic fire. The statue which is now proves conclusively the cruel contempt placed in the President's palace, Ha- with which the fearless navigator was bana, is an artistic piece of work, but the 'treated in his own day. Time rectifies most striking effigy of all in Cuba is Vall- many misjudgments, and it has done so mitjana's sculpture depicting Columbus in the case of the discoverer of America. in chains. It is to be regretted that this The wonder of his achievement is uni- beautiful work is only a clay model. The versally recognized and the Worlds, both representation is that of Columbus in his Old and New, have testified in many old age. He is seated on a coil of rope •

THE MID -PACIFIC 275 on the deck of the ship which is carrying been very carefully preserved. No at- him to Spain. He reclines against a cap- tempt was made to produce an effigy of stan, his fettered hands held before him. the admiral. The artist has caught a striking expres- It is unfortunate that there is no con- sion of resignation combined with mel- temporaneous painting or likeness of ancholy. The work is a masterpiece of Columbus extant. For this reason artists sentiment and expression. who have attempted to reproduce his Another historical group is that which lineaments in marble have been at a was presented by Empress Eugenie of great disadvantage. France to the Republic of Colombia. It As a matter of fact the accepted like- now stands at Cristobal, the Canal Zone. ness of the admiral is after the manner Throughout Latin America the ven- of being an idealistic conception. All eration for Columbus is universal, and are familiar with the strong clean shaven we find his memory honored in cities of face from which deep expressive eyes Mexico, Colombia, Peru, Chile, and oth- look out under a broad brow. The deep er Pan American States. lines from the nose to the corners of the It is curious to note that it was also a mouth are also characteristic of the pop- Latin, a Frenchman, who erected the first ular portraits of Columbus. Who would monument in the United States in honor recognize the discoverer depicted with a of the achievement of Columbus. In gray beard? Yet it is more than prob- Baltimore there still stands a monument able that he wore one when he planted erected over a century ago in honor of the banner of Spain on the shores of the the first discoverer. It is said to be the New World. pioneer monument erected on this con- The few descriptions of the personal tinent to commemorate the achievement appearance of the admiral which we of Columbus. The story of its erection have from those who knew him well tell is as follows : us "he was a man of sturdy statue, rather After the Revolutionary War several above the average height, of a very of the officers who had come to America ruddy complexion, with freckles and red with General Lafayette settled in Balti- hair when he was young. The latter more. Among these was Charles Francis soon turned white, which was also the Adrian le Paulmier, Chevalier d'Amour, color of his beard." Beards were the the first consul from France to the fashion of his day in Spain, and it is Colonies. This gentleman had a fine easy to believe that sailors wore them estate immediately north of the town. for protection. Here it was his custom to entertain The representations which we see to- largely, especially in honor of visitors day of Columbus can nearly all be traced from France. At one of his dinners in back to an engraving called the Paulus 1792 the conversation was directed to the Jovius cut, which was made from a paint- fact that it was the year marking the ing that has been lost. tricentennial of the discovery of America Even the lost painting was not an and that there was no monument in this original likeness, for it was painted on new land to him who had discovered it. what the lawyers would call "hearsay General d'Amour at once gave orders evidence." But as it was executed some for the erection of a suitable memorial time in the early years of the sixteenth on his own estate. The monument was century the features may be taken as erected of English brick, cemented on fairly correct. the outside, a graceful shaft over 44 feet In this cut Columbus is drawn with- high. On the west side of the base a out a beard, thus he is always clean marble tablet bearing the inscription shaven in effigy. So it is with the new "Sacred to the Memory of Cristopher Columbus statue unveiled in Washing- Columbus, October XII, MDCCXCII." ton on June 8. This marks the first great The monument is still standing, having memorial which the United States Gov- 276 THE MID-PACIFIC

ernment has erected to Christopher The globe which surmounts the shaft Columbus. indicates the contribution the discovery There has long been a feeling that this of Columbus was to the science of geo- country has not had a really worthy graphy. This globe is supported by four monument to the man who is primarily massive eagles with outstretched wings. responsible for the existence of the na- Upon it, in high relief, are cut the topo- tion. graphical features of the New World. The feeling took concrete shape when, At either side of the shaft there appear in 1906 Representative James A. Goul- figures portraying the sculptor's con- den of New York introduced a bill ap- ception of representative types of the new propriating the sum of $100,000 to be and old world. The figure of an Ameri- used for a Columbus memorial. Congress can Indian, energetic in pose, one hand passed the bill and it was signed in 1907 reaching over his shoulder and grasping by President Roosevelt. By the terms of an arrow from a quiver, represents the the bill a commission was formed to new world, while the statue of a patri- carry out its provisions, this commission archal Caucasian, of heroic proportions to be the chairmen of the Senate and and thoughtful mien, typifies the old House committees on the library, to- world. gether with the Secretary of State, the On the face at the rear of the shaft is Secretary of War, and the Supreme placed a medallion representing Ferdin- Knight of the Knights of Columbus, and and Isabella of Spain. which organization had been most active The plan of this memorial promises in promoting the plan. Senator Elihu to make it the greatest statue of its kind Root was then Secretary of State, and yet erected in .Washington. President Taft, Secretary of War. The The ceremonies attending the unveil- latter was made chairman of the com- ing were fitting in every way. Perhaps mission, and after a competition which the most notable feature was the impos- included the world's masters of sculpture, ing parade in which over 50,000 men the design submitted by Lorado Taft and participated. In line were forces of the Daniel H. Burnham was accepted. Army and Navy, members of the Knights The design is a combination of foun- of Columbus from various sections of the tain, shaft and statue. country, and representatives from other The fountain is semicircular, 70 feet organizations. The whole demonstra- wide and 65 feet from front to rear. tion was reviewed by the President, mem- The balustrade which half encircles it bers of the Cabinet, high foreign digni- bears the effigy of a heroic lion at either taries, as well as numerous bodies from extremity. The salient feature of the the Senate and House of Representatives memorial is a splendid stone shaft sur- and other distinguished men of the coun- mounted by a globe. Before this shaft, try. The ceremonies were closed by a which rises in the center of the fountain great public banquet, where it is esti- circle, is a statue.of Calumbus. mated 1,800 persons were united at din- The Admiral stands at the prow of his ner. At this banquet the President of ship, his eyes fixed for the first time on the United States, Cabinet members, the the world of which he had so long diplomatic corps, members of the Su- dreamed. The artist has tried to show preme Court, the Senate and House of in the expression all the surging thoughts Representatives, and the executive of- that must have filled the breast of the dis- ficers of the Pan-American Union were coverer at that prophetic moment. invited guests of honor, together with The figurehead of the vessel which is high officials of the church, including shown as carrying the navigator is an His Eminence James Cardinal Gibbons, allegorical portrayal of the spirit of Dis= the Cardinal Primate of the United covery. The bow of the ship is cleaving States, and the Archbishop Busoni, the the water in the great basin of the foun- personal representative of the Pope. tain, a pretty artistic conception. The following figures relative to the •

THE MID -PACIFIC 277

statue should be of interest. The great countries of the Pan-American Union marble lions, guarding the memorial, would unite in doing honor to Columbus. weigh 15,000 pounds each, equivalent to No part of the country is more favored seven tons of coal. The statue of than any other in this plan—North, South Columbus is 16 feet high, weighs 44,000 and Central America each having equal pounds ; and the marble group that sur- claims in the matter of honoring the mounts the whole weighs not less than 29 great navigator. Already "Discovery tons ; while each of the supporting eagles Day," as it has been called, is a legal weigh 6 tons. holiday in twenty-nine States of the Considerable engineering ingenuity has Union, and it is also observe a in an of- been displayed in placing the component ficial manner in the countries of Brazil, parts of the design in position. The Colombia, Costa Rica, Panama, and Peru. above given weights show that this has The principal reasons for inaugurating a been no easy problem to solve. holiday of this character are twofold : The only other occasion that the United First, to do honor to the fearless navi- States, as a nation, did signal honor to gator who discovered the Western Hem- the memory of Columbus was at the isphere; and second, to have a holiday fourth centennial anniversary celebration that would be common to all the Ameri- which took the form of a World's Fair, can peoples, thereby inaugurating a cele- held in Chicago in 1893. During the time of this exposition many exercises of bration which would help in many ways distinctive character were carried out to an even better feeling among the Pan- with the purpose of doing honor to the American nations. discoverer of our country. It is to be hoped that the Knights of The Pan-American Union has been been so active in bringing about the re- using every effort to promote the plan alization of the Columbus memorial whereby the independent nations of the statue, will continue its active movement Western Hemisphere would set aside a for a national holiday to be known as day, preferably October 12, when all the "Columbus Day."

Statue of Columbus at Santo Domingo. •

278 THE MID-PACIFIC •

Modern training-school work.

Old Home Ware in Hawaii

From the Memoirs of the Bishop Museum.

HE fruit of the Coco Palm served capacity of ninety-two ounces or nearly as the never failing food, and three quarts. Not less ancient was their T we may now examine some of use as drinking cups, and the Hawaiians the many uses this nut serves in made a distinction between ordinary the domestic economy of the Hawaiian. cups (apu niu) and those exclusively for Little was peculiar to this people, for the the use of the priest's, to which the name coconut is so widely spread through the olo was given. The former were cut at tropics that many other races have ex- right angles to the vertical axis while the hausted their ingenuity in devising im- latter were cut parallel to this deter- plements from the hard, durable shell of minant. A coconut cup was the ortho- the coconut. Still it is well to show dox form for awa drinking, and such what the Hawaiians did with this mater- cups by long use gather a fine patina ial. First, probably the nuts served as which is as much valued by awa experts water-bottles, as they still do in many as the rich color of a meerchaum pipe by parts of the Pacific, especially in the its smoker. Although coconut cups are southern groups where tliey attain a often found in the burial caves deposited greater size than on Hawaii. There is with the dead, no decorated ones are one in this Museum from Samoa that has known.

279 •

280 THE MID -PACIFIC

Next, perhaps, came the use of coco- The shell is hard and thin and the re- nuts for spoons, filling a natural need, cesses cut for the inlay must be shallow, and almost any concave fragment served, but the method of decoration is much but soon the handle was developed, and used among the Solomon Islanders and a very complete ladle (ooma pu m:u) re- they certainly understand their material. sulted. As the Hawaiians did not boil On other Pacific groups much greater their food, and soups were unknown, use was made of the coconut. How far this manufacture was not so important the decoration of cups went, I cannot as in the groups where the discovery of say, for I do not know of any collection pottery was followed by hot liquids. In to illustrate this, but certain specimens certain districts where the water supply on hand in this Museum may be noticed. was scarce and kalo could not be culti- On the Fijian group a plain cup has an vated, the sweet potato (uala maoli) attachment of braided coir, so that one took its place as daily bread, but the drinking from the cup could use this resulting mass was wanting in the adhe- permanent napkin which could be washed sive qualities of the kalo-made poi and with the cup. On the Marquesas coco- could not be wound up on the fingers, so nuts were often incised with the peculiar a spoon was needed, and the bits of figures so much used there in tatuing coconut therefore were and are still used and wood carving. to convey this food to the mouth. For The Solomon Islanders had no bottle salt cellars disks of the shell answered gourds and they supplied the want by an very well. ingenious use of the coconut in which As the coconut shell takes a beautiful the material was completely disguised polish the manufacture of cups, bowls by coating the nut with a gum, which and small dishes has been much modified cemented to a hole on the top of a joint under foreign influence. Among Ha- of bambu which was also coated with waiians these polished nut cups, foreign the same material. The result resembled to the glue that unites the cup and base, pottery, and the nut portion was dec- the latter the work of the turner, are orated with imbedded shells or beads still popular for individual poi bowls at forming patterns of great variety. feasts. Both the dark and light varieties On the Micronesian groups, where co- of shell were esteemed, but the former conuts are abundant and fresh water takes the better polish ; one in this scarce, the nuts are used extensively for Museum from the Society Islands is per- carrying and preserving water. The haps the most beautifully polished coco- natural nut is cleaned out, the "eye" en- nut I have seen. larged and plugged with a pandanus leaf Besides polishing, which is a com- tightly folded for a stopple and with the paratively modern fashion, the other attachment of two cords of coconut fibre, groups furnish examples of inlaying most the bottle is complete. Two are usually artistically and neatly done. The can- on the same cord, for convenience of nibals of the Solomon group have in- carrying. Other groups use the same laid a simple coconut shell cup with cre- contrivance, and I have found it on nate triangles of pearl shell in a way Samoa, Fiji' and almost identical in that would do credit to a civilized artisan Singapore, Akyab and western India. who had never eaten his fellow man. After the introduction of tobacco a THE MID-PACIFIC 281

A Hawaiian feast or luau by the sea shore. small coconut shell became the favorite cup of Pauahi, the mother of Keeliko- tobacco box (hano baka). The cups lani, that of Queen Kamamalu, and that formed of the lower end of these slender of Liliha, Madame Boki and daughter of nuts were much in demand for mixing Hoapili : the last two cups were from fish bait, while precisely the same thing the famous grove of palms at Kalapana was used in the Caroline Islands for on Hawaii. molding the cakes of red paint called Implements of wood were by far the taik. We must not forget that these most interesting as well as most numer- nuts had part in the amusements of the ous of all the domestic utensils in Ha- Hawaiians, both as rattles precisely as waiian housekeeping, and we shall find the small gourds were used, and as drums much to surprise us and not a little to to be bound to the arms (puniu hula). commend. From their material they Here we may mention a pleasing cus- were more durable than the vessels of tom of the Hawaiians which has survived gourd ; from the labor bestowed upon within my own observation, for a chief them they were proportionately valued ; to bend down a young coconut tree in and like the precious feather work were token of taking possession, and ever preserved in families, and handed down afterwards the tree was known by the from generation to generation, until the name of that chief, and on gathering the foreigner has come to the Islands and first nuts, the chief had them made into appreciating the workmanship and grace, cups for presents to friends. Several has tried to imitate them on the lathe, such cups are in this Museum, a's the but with poor success and has ended in

6-M. P. •

282 THE MID -PACIFIC

gathering to himself the choicest re- our judgment might be modified ; but in mains of this "Age of Wood," and a the absence of sufficient exploration, in a genuine hand-made umeke is now a rare few years useless, if the appointed time and costly treasure ; fine ones have been be not already passed, we are compelled sold for more than five hundred dollars. to base our judgment on the collections In no one thing has the artistic taste in museums. From these sources, with of the old Hawaiian come into closer the extensive material of the Bishop touch with the best taste of older civi- Museum at hand, and beautiful photo- lized nations than in the making of graphs of the Salem Museum, and other wooden bowls. Unlike the Maori, who great collections before us, we feel justi- carefully kept and honored the memory fied in placing the unknown Hawaiian of the artists among them whose carving carver of umeke high among the depart- was good, the Hawaiian has not pre- ed artists of the Pacific region, and so served a single name of those who pati- far as illustrations go, the reader can see ently with stone tools fashioned the ume- the quality of their work for himself. ke, plain or grotesquely carved, that They not only excelled in form, but they have come down to us. The Maori worked in wood of most agreeable colors sculptor made astonishing relief work. and markings and capable of a most ex- His carved bowls and dishes were quisite polish : the latter quality was one curious, some of them so close in motive not present to the old Hawaiians, who to some of the Hawaiian dishes that I attained a fine, smooth finish, but never have seen a Maori dish that closely re- the glassy polish dear to many collectors sembles a favorite Hawaiian form ; but of this ware, and which, although an when we look through his bowls, dishes anachronism, it must be confessed dis- and general household utensils we shall plays the beautiful markings of the wood find nothing to compare with some of perfectly. the Hawaiian umeke, and if we extend Among the woods most commonly our examination through the other used was the kou (Cordia subcordata) a groups the result will be the same. Gro- littoral tree of large growth and spread- tesque and most interesting work we ing habit, found as far south of the shall find in New Guinea and the Solo- equator as Madagascar, and formerly mon Islands, very original dishes on the planted near the native houses along the little Matty Island, but these Papuans beach for its grateful shade, but seldom had pottery to make bowls and dishes seen now, owing to the ravages of a which would parallel the uses of the small moth Azinis hilarella=Ethmia Hawaiian umeke. The Admiralty Isl- colorella W. It is almost extinct on this anders made huge bowls, but their deco- group. The opinion of some botanists is rations were more striking than their that it has been introduced, but if so it shapes. The Marquesans made bowls must have been in very early time in the after the general form of the Hawaiians history of the people, as the ancient songs but with none of the finish. Perhaps if often mention the kou. The size the tree we knew more of these and other groups, attains is shown by an umeke in this and had adequate collections of the work Museum which is nine feet in circum- in this class that each has in the past ference, and of course made of the fabricated,—for this is all past now,— heart wood. To fell such a tree with a THE MID-PACIFIC 283 stone axehead weighing, it may be, ten is the Kamani (Calophyllum inophyl- pounds, must have required patience as lum), a tree found all through tropical well as muscle in the doing. Some of Asia and the Polynesian islands and the oldest umeke in existence, which used on Hawaii to some extent for have been found in long ago closed bur- umekes. The tree itself is even more ial caves are of this rather soft but dur- beautiful than its wood, and its glossy able wood. leaves and sweet-scented flowers caused Another tree the Milo (Thespesia the old Hawaiians to plant it near their populnea) has the same geographical' houses while other Polynesians attached range as the kou, the same habitat, and a semi-sacred character to groves of the like the former tree is passing away and tree, of which we find a trace in the is seldom seen out of gardens, while a sacred grove near the Puuhonua or place century ago it was planted about the of refuge at Halawa at the east end of houses of the alii, as is well remembered Molokai. The wood is of a brighter around that of Kamehameha the Great color than the kou. at Waikiki. Even the name is the same The heart wood of the coconut was on the southeastern groups, where it was sometimes used for umeke, but those in almost a sacred tree. It is a smaller tree collections of genuine old umeke would than the kou, hence we have no large not amount to more than five per cent of umekes from its wood, but there are the whole number. When polished, co- very choice small bowls or cups. Its conut wood was very striking, but the distinguishing feature is a rich peach old Hawaiians never carried their polish- color and under polish a translucent ing far enough to bring out the full ef- agate-like appearance. fect, and when unpolished the effect is Another beautiful and durable wood dull in the extreme.

Carved Hawaiian Dishes.

284 THE MID-PACIFIC

■ ■ ■ ■

From the land of Rainier to Southern California the auto passes through groves and forests of the world's tallest timbers. In all the world there is no such auto trip as this along the California Riviera. Santa Monica.

■ ■ Through California's Riviera

By R. J. BAKER ■

OURING Topics gives itinerar- if the motorist is seeking new scenes and ies for some wonderful auto new experiences. There are mountain T trips through California and has trips that will take one over forest prepared maps of these. It is shadowed roads, high upon the bare in this way that the attention of tourists ridges and to the very summit of mile of today is called to the ideal meta high peaks where are camping places in regions. which the tourist may pitch his tent and There is no part of the world that to live the simple life, or he may go a few an equal degree with Southern California miles further to some one of the many presents the opportunity to the car own- summer resorts that provide not only the er in the way of excursion jaunts during necessities but practically all of the com- the summer months. There are a thou- forts to which the ordinary man is ac- sand and one tours of delight that may customed. There are scores of beach be taken throughout the State and there trips for the man who likes the sea shore is every possible variety of scene and en- and one may wend his way leisurely vironment that may be experienced dur- from place to place over excellent roads ing a few months sojourn in California and through a country of varied and

285 286 THE MID-PACIFIC

charming scenery. There are canyon months. It leads one along a turbulent trips that may be taken where the roads mountain stream for a distance of eight must be pioneered, in a sense, but where or nine miles, through an archway of the added discomforts of rough going oak and cypress trees that gradually and road building are rewarded by beau- dwindle and give way to the pines of the tiful vistas and primeval scenes that higher altitudes. The last six miles to make of a vacation an experience that is Pine Crest is over a "switch-back" road vastly and pleasurably different from the that has been blasted from the face of ordinary every-day life. One may keep the mountain,. The grades are stiff but on the road week after week without the the road bed is kept firm and hard and necessity of duplicating a single tour and any machine of ordinary power will have with the certainty that each day's trip no difficulty in covering this portion of will furnish him a new scene and a new the trip. When the summit of the moun- thrill. tain is obtained one journeys over an up- The journey to Pine Crest from Los and down road along the crest passing Angeles gives the motorist a choice of the summer resorts of Skylands and two routes for the greater portion of the Squirrel Inn and on to Pine Crest resort trip, each being in good condition and where accommodations and supplies of presenting no road difficulties to interfere all kinds may be obtained. If one makes with the pleasure of the trip. One may his headquarters at Pine Crest, at which travel over the Foothill Boulevard by place he may secure a cottage or may way of Pasadena, Monrovia, Azusa, live at the hotel, there are automobile Claremont and thence to San Bernardino trips that may be taken through beautiful or the alternate of the Valley Route is mountain scenery that will occupy -him given over which one passes through fully for several days. There is the trip Alhambra, El Monte, Pomona, Ontario to Little Bear Lake where excellent lake and Riverside and thence into San Ber- fishing may be had, there is the trip to nardino. The roads encountered on both Fredalba, to Strawberry Peak, out to- routes are macadam or oil-surfaced high- ward Big Bear Lake and numerous other ways, very good for the most part, but trips, of varying road conditions, but all with occasional stretches of not more of which are worth the effort required. than one or two miles that are uncom- The Pine Crest trip is one that may be fortably rough by reason of chuckholes taken without especial preparation as one and deep ruts. Beyond San Bernardino passes through numerous little cities there is an excellent and smooth road for where supplies of all kinds may be se- a distance' of about seven miles that rises cured. In preparation for the mountain by a slight gradient to the foot of the portion of the trip, the Glenwood Garage Waterman Canyon road. The Water- at Riverside or the Central Garage at man Canyon road for a distance of about San Bernardino may be safely visited if seventeen miles is a splendid mountain the tourist is in need of supplies or re- highway with average grades of fKom pair work. Arrowhead Hotel, just be- ten to twelve per cent, but with a few yond San Bernardino, the trip to which short stretches where the grade is nearly in itself is a delightful journey, is one twenty per cent. This roadway is owned among Southern California's most fa- by San Bernardino County and is kept in mous hostelries and aside from the splendid condition during the summer medicinal properties of its hot springs, it THE MID- PACIFIC 287

presents to the motorist a very desirable are among the finest to be found in the spot at which to make his headquarters entire state. They traverse all the prin- while touring the surrounding country. cipal valleys and are built along the On the Wat&man Canyon route there is mountain sides rising from the sea level water to be had every few miles, water- at the city itself to altitudes of more than ing troughs having been placed along the one mile. In the region covered by the roadside to which is piped a constant map of these routes there are a sufficient flow of water during the summer season. number of unusually interesting trips to A side trip of much scenic interest is keep one on the go during an entire va- shown on the map of this tour. This cation and to attempt a detailed descrip- side jaunt leads over fair roads to Lytle tion of each is not permitted in the limit- Creek which are in very good condition. ed space that can. be devoted to this The Coast route is the one most often article. used during the summer as it skirts the The trip to Big Bear Valley is one ocean for a considerable portion of its among the summer vacation journeys mileage and is kept cool and pleasant by that has only recently become popular, the ocean breeze, whereas the Inland as the roads heretofore have been very route follows the valley courses and be- difficult and none except high-powered comes exceedingly warm in summer. The cars have attempted the trip. Big Bear Coast, route to San Diego except for a Valley is about thirty-two miles from short distance through Orange County Redlands and the lodge, at which ac- is smooth and well surfaced and it passes commodations may be secured, is located through a number of cities where excel- at an elevation of 6800 feet. This is a lent accommodations may be secured by trip that takes one through a sparsely the motorist who wishes to travel leisure- settled and very mountainous country ly and make frequent stopovers. where the roadway is one of considerable The Inland Route by way of Pomona, grades and many turns. A tortuous Ontario, Riverside, Fallbrook, Vista and course must be followed and it is well Escondido, and thence over the Poway to make sure of brakes and to be well Grade to San Diego is fair with the ex- supplied with oil and gas before leaving ception of a short stretch between On- Redlands. The road at present is in tario and Wineville which is being torn very good condition up to the foot of up and is difficult to travel in comfort. Bear Creek Hill while from that point For the rest of the trip there is a suc- to the summit, which attains an elevation cession of fair to splendid highways and of 950 feet, and beyond the summit and the motorist passes through some beau- down to the lodge the road is in fair tiful stretches of farming country, then condition at present and is being worked, through a land of canyons and moun- so that there will be no difficulty in mak- tains, thence the higher mesa land in San ing this unusual and desirable trip at Diego County, and then to sea level at any time. Unless one desires to camp San Diego. out the only desirable accommodations There are several hundred miles of to be had at Bear Lake is Pine Knot highway in San Diego County that have Lodge which does not open officially been built by the county under a high- until June 1st. However, as an accom- , way bond issue of one million five hun- modation for early fishing parties the dred thousand dollars and these roads lodge will open May 10th, to assist camp- 288 THE MID-PACIFIC ing parties in preparing meals and as Boulevard and the other by way of the sleeping quarters. Hunting of all kinds Valley Boulard. From Ontario, Euclid in season is reported excellent at Big is followed northward to San Antonio Bear Lake, while splendid brook and lake and then the excellent road of San An- trout fishing may be had during the en- tonio Canyon is traversed for a distance tire summer. of about eight miles. The roadway is an The choice of three routes is given excellent mountain highway with a to the motorist who wishes to journey maximum grade of twelve per cent on a from Los Angeles to Ventura and thence few short stretches. At Camp Baldy into the vacation grounds of Ojai Val- there is an excellent hotel and camp that ley. One may take the southern route is open from May first at which the by way of the Calabasas, the Conejo traveler may stay, living at the hotel or grade and thence through Camarillo and securing one of the numerous cottages Montalvo into Ventura. Another route with which the camp is supplied. There passes through Lankershim, over the is everything here to make the vacation Owensmouth-Van Nuys Boulevard, over enjoyable and excellent trout fishing is Santa Susana Pass and through Moor- reported in San Antonio Creek. At park, Somis and Saticoy to Ventura. Camp Baldy is the beginning of a fine The third and most northly route is by mountain trail to the summit of Old way of Tropico, Fernando, Newhall Baldy, one ofthe highest peaks of Cali- Tunnel and thence down the Santa Clara fornia, which attains an elevation 11,100 Valley. This latter route touches at Fill- feet. From the summit of Mount Baldy more and Piru near which are famous is one of the finest views to be had in all trout fishing streams that attract anglers the West, as from its top is discernable from all over the State. At Santa Paula the whole of the valley between the a road branches to the north that leads mountains and the sea and with its hun- into the Ojai Valley and terminates so dreds of hustling little towns and thou- far as the motorist is concerned, at Ma- sands upon thousands of farmhouses. In tilija Hot Springs which resort is head- the opposite direction is the broad and quarters during the summer for hun- shimmering expanse of the Mojave dreds who seek the splendid fishing to Desert which stretches like a brown be found in the upper mountain streams blanket as far as the eye can see. The above Matilija. In the Ojai Valley, Camp Baldy road has recently been which is famous both as a summer and signed by the Automobile Club of South- winter resort, there are numerous in- ern California and all places of possible terest:ng excursions to be taken. danger have been indicated so that there The roads to Ventura and Nordhoff are is nothing that might mar the pleasures in good condition and there is compara- of this short tour. tively little rough going to be found on The Mount Wilson trip is a sixteen- any of these routes. Santa Susana road mile journey from Pasadena and is one is reported in best condition, but the of the famous mountain driveways of northern route is chosen by many motor- Southern California. Mount Wilson is ists on account of the greater number of fishing streams which it intersects and reached over good roads with a private because of the more varied scenery to be roadway of about ten miles from the Toll encountered on it. House that has maximum grades of ten A short excursion but one that gives per cent, and which winds back and the motorist a variety of scenes and takes forth along the face of the mountain him over good roads, is the tour to Camp with precipitous drops on the one side Baldy at the head of San Antonio Can- and towering cliffs on the other. The yon. There is a choice of two routes road has been recently widened in numer- that may be followed in journeying to ous places and in the ten miles from the Camp Baldy, one by way of the Foothill toll house to the summit there are thirty- •

THE MID-PACIFIC 289

eight passing points for automobiles and largest telescopes in the world is in use vehicles. There are various trails that and from which are announced many of will take one to many unusual points of the most important astronomical dis- interest and there is excellent fishing in coveries of each year. many of the mountain streams that may The foregoing brief descriptions are be !leached in a few hours' walk. One intended only as outlines to indicate to of the interesting features in connection the motorist something in a general way with the Mount Wilson trip is the Car- of what he may expect on each of these negie Observatory where one of the trips.

The glory of Southern California. 290 THE MID-PACIFIC

■ ■

This is a typical scene in the woods of Hawaii. The stoutest ma- hogany, tree ferns and giant bananas grow side by side. There are vistas that are all tropical and others that suggest only forests of the temperate zone. Fern and Ieie.

A Day in the Kauai Forests

By J. M. LYDGATE ■

.7- HAT a day's hunting or fishing little wisps of cloud here and there, i or yachting are to other men, all together would scarcely make a IN a day in the woods is to me ; lady's handkerchief ; those are the days rest and change and renewal. when the lure of the mountains is par- But more than this, a breath of Divine ticularly strong. "What a lovely day to inspiration. To spend a day in the go to the Mountains !" Helen would sug- woods is to follow Moses up into the gest. Mount, to catch fresh though elusive "Not much !" I reply—"this isn't the visions of the Divine, and to bring back day for me!" somewhat of the glory of them for every Long experience had cured me of this day life. fallacy. However you may start, ulti- But I have my own original idea of the mately, the mountains mean afoot. kind of day for my outing. The still Climbing, and that means to be parched, breathless days—when the sea is like and breathless, and melting, under a glass, and the mountains stand out like burning mid-day sun. No. Commend cameos against the azure sky, and the me to a day with wind, fresh trades

291 292 THE MID -PACIFIC blowing in off the sea, and bringing, acquaintance of the real aristocracy of every now and then, a sharp quick show- the Hawaiian forest. er, and a refreshing sense of coolness The slum element is alien, much more and vitality. so than most people realize. All the And as for coat, or mackintosh, the trees and plants of familiar everyday life less you have on the better, there will are foreigners—largely Beachcombers, be so much less to carry, so much less to latana, guava, indigo, oi, pride of India, get wet, and so much less to get dry. prickly pear, tar-weed, sheep-weed, etc., And when I go to the woods it must etc. With characteristic effrontery, these be the real thing, the "Forest primeval" things have taken possession of the land, beyond the farthest outpost of guava or and the Hawaiian things have modestly lantana or Hilo grass, where even the withdrawn, more and more, so that they mynah bird is stricken with loneliness are comparatively unknown to the gen- and awe, and in a measure checks his eral public, who think of these natural- contentious volubility. ized things as indigenous Hawaiian, they There are, increasingly, vast reaches seem to be so much at home. of our Forest where the stately patri- To most people, I fancy, the Hawaiian archs of a byegone time, very much Forest is as uninteresting and unintellig- debilitated and seedy looking, strive in ible as a Chinese newspaper, just a jum- vain to hold their own against the rabble ble of strange and unfamiliar things, so of beach-comber rif-raf that wrangles at indiscriminately observed that they all their feet. Lingering heroes of a van- look alike, as Chinamen do to the un- ishing race, doomed to make way to initiated. To the discriminating lover an alien succession, they make a melan- of the Forest it is an open book of Ro- choly appeal that goes to the heart of mance, of entrancing interest where every true Hawaiian. every turn is liable to reveal some new So I avoid this degenerate jungle of interest, or some new treasure. To me Lantana and Uluhi and Hilo grass, and it holds the dangerous lure and fascina- seek the unsullied heart of the Forest, tion of prospecting for gold, there are the unbroken fastness that is purely possible nuggets at every turn, possible Hawaiian. "finds" on every height. And this is not by any means so easy In some ways the Hawaiian Forest to reach. The slums, as it were, of the disappoints popular expectation. It is forest, present themselves all about the not Tropical, at least, not in ways we suburbs—a wide belt of defense—and expect. The Palm is the sign of the you may flounder and flail through this Tropics ; a Tropical landscape without all day—until your strength and your palms is an anomaly. Practically the enthusiasm are utterly worn out. Lan- Palm is conspicuous by its absence from tana, Uluhi, ie-ie, Hilo grass—scratched,= our Forest landscape. Eliminating the and torn, and bleeding, and profane you coconut of the sea shore, we have only struggle through it until you can hardly two or three stunted fan palms high up lift one leg after another.. And never in the mountains, and seldom seen— get to the real forest at all. lonesome strangers out of place and ill- Your chance td get through these slums at-ease. is some mountain trail—surely over- Orchids too are significant of the grown,—some ditch line kept open by Tropics. We have no orchids that ever faithful attention, or more commonly anybody would recognize as such. Poor the bed of a mountain stream swept little homely things, ashamed of them- clear from time to time by a winter tor- selves, they hide away among the Ferns rent. and undergrowth. We have none of the And so, finally, we get through the flaring, flaunting, brilliant oddities sway- slum region and drop the ubiquitous ing from the trees which should be slum characters and begin to make the found in the Tropical forest. But, per- THE MID -PACIFIC 293 haps we make good, in the jungle quali- fierce, things must hasten in order that ties of creeper and liana, always signi- they may mature seed before the frost ficant of Tropical luxuriance. The most comes. luxuriant of all lianas, the ie-ie, in Hence the great rush of wild flowers, great, scandent, twining masses builds up like palpitating waves of color, which a tower of Tropical wealth about every have come and gone, almost before we tree in the forest until it is finally all know it, leaving a floral famine, where ie-ie and no tree. Another common vine a blossom would be a miracle. that tends to entangle the forest is the Strike an average for the whole year giant Smilax, with leaves as large as and probably our flowers would hold teaplates, strong, fibrous, woody stems, their own. and fragrant masses of straw-colored And yet, we have wild flowers in pro- flowers. fusion, only we choose not to see them. Half a dozen species of lusty Morning Is there any wild flower any where, more Glory, and perhaps twice that many profuse or more continuous than the members of the Pea family, more or less Lantana? Aye or more beautiful? Just add to the jungle appearance and quality look at the Lantana the next time you of the Hawaiian Forest. have a chance and note how many thou- But more characteristic, perhaps, and sands of flowers there are on every certainly more impressive in experience, bush, and what a range of color, and is the Uluhi or Stag-horn Fern. It has what superb crystalline tints. The very been aptly likened to coiled bed springs, profusion of its beauty is its own undo- to which I would add fish hooks and ing; if it were rare, it would be won- barbed wire, plied in great masses, 6 to 8 derful. The same is true in a measure feet deep, concealed beneath the charm of the 0i, the Sensitive plant, the Milk- of delicate feathery fronds of the most weed, etc. vivid green. To struggle up a steep Another element of beauty, which is slope, in the face of such an enemy, is to apt to be overlooked in our Forests, is court defeat ; to repeat in ones own in- the diversity of color and range of shade dividual experience the Sedans and of the foliage. In temperate climes the Malakoffs of military disaster. But from pines are apt to dominate the scene and afar, there can be no more inviting scene darken the landscape with their sombre than a great circular bed of this deli- hue—hundreds of miles of monotonous cate feathery green. melancholy. The Hawaiian Forests are It is commonly objected that we have fairly radiant with a sparkling vivacity no wild flowers in Hawaii. In the strict of verdure which runs through a wide sense this is an unjust criticism. In gamut of greens from the sombre Lehua every country the great majority of to the silver Kukui, one tint being in- growing things are flowering plants ; the laid upon another like a marvellous flower is essential to the seed, and the tracery of arabesque. And so luminous seed to the reproduction of the plant. are these various tints that the discrimi- So Nature squanders flowers, as well as nating eye can read them afar, interpret- seeds, in reckless profusion. According- ing this or that patch of color, or even ly, here, as well as elsewhere, almost single tree on the distant mountain side, everything flowers. But what is no' doubt with the confident assurance of name meant is that there is no prodigal dis- and character. Were there no flowers play of flowers here, as in Temperate at all, nor any suggestion of color other climes. than green, there would still be a peren- And this is no doubt true in a measure. nial charm in the general aspect of the Our plants have the whole year in which Hawaiian Forest. to flower ; they can take their time, and But beyond this, there is also the straggle along, whereas in colder habi- charm of much vivid color; not the tudes, where the Summer is short and hectic flush of death in Autumn leaves, 294 THE MID-PACIFIC

The ie-ie climbs and fianally strangles the tree. THE MID -PACIFIC 295 but the budding radiance of perpetual shelter ; for a single night a very thin Spring. Among the trees thus joyous layer of broad unbroken leaves will be with the Matin song of Spring may be quite sufficient. You may have to resort mentioned the Haa—Antidesma—with in the end to a combination of whatever, masses of rich wine-colored leaves ; the semi-suitable material you can find, the Lehua aflame with generous areas of pai-niu lily, ie-ie leaves, a few ferns or a new growth, shading from pink through few bunches of grass. Indian red to copper ; the Ohia-ai rang- For the framework of your shelter, of ing from corn-color through pink to course, you haven't any nails, and no copper ; the koleo, with startling com- hammer if you had, but these are not binations of pink, lavender and purple. necessary. The frame of the ancient A Day in the Woods does not or- house was always tied together, and for dinarily include the Night, indeed in a this purpose the forest will readily sup- lifetime of fairly intimate experience of ply an, abundance of material in the part the mountains of Hawaii, I have never of the Hau, the wilted leaves of the ti had to spend a single unpremeditated plant, the long fibrous stalk of the ba- night out ; but misfortune sometimes nana, or the tough rattan-like roots of comes to the most prudent man, in the the ie-ie. wilds even as in the city. So a few Of course common sense will teach moments may be devoted to the possi- you to make your shelter of the simple bility, the more so in view of the recent "lean-to" type, and to back it up against unfortunate experience of a party in the the wind ; and the falling darkness will mountains of Oahu. admonish you to be quick about all this. The comfort of the night out involves Next comes the problem of fire. If a three-fold problem. Shelter, fire and you are a smoker you have matches—if food. you are a prudent man you have The Hawaiian Forest affords a num- matches. If you aren't, and haven't, ber of materials suitable for shelter con- then indeed you are "up against it." You struction of the grass house type, but the recall the detailed Boy Scout instruction trouble with most of them is that they of how to make a fire without matches, are always somewhere else. A good by friction with a piece of soft dry hau house can be made of Puhala leaves, but for mortar and a pestle of dry tough the Puhala grows mostly in the open kauwila. Failing the matches, had I makai country, where you wouldn't brought these things with me? Why bother to build a house—you would go no! I had left them at home with the home instead ! There are certain kinds enamel bath tub and the charcoal iron of coarse grass, and other sedge, which cookstove. As well look for a pearl sun- are excellent thatch material, but the lit- burst, as a piece of soft dry hau in this tle clumps in which they grow are scarce dripping wilderness ! and widely scattered. You couldn't find No, if you haven't matches you might enough of it lin a week to cover the roof as well resign yourself to such warmth of a sentry box. The giant fronds of the as your own folly, and your strong Fan Palm could be wrought into a shelt- language thereat will engender, for you er very quickly—half a dozen of them aren't likely to get anything better. And would do—but there probably isn't 'a even if you have matches, it doesn't at palm tree within twenty miles of you. all follow that you will have a fire. The tough shiny leaves of the Ti plant- Everything is damp—nay even wringing Dracena—are capital, but it again is a wet, and you may easily waste all your makai plant and avoids the higher matches without getting a single en- mountains. And the same is true of the couraging indication of flame. Your tropical banana, though if you are fol- one hope is to look for a big reclining lowing the bed of a stream, this is prob- Lehua tree, the outer bark of which will ably the most likely material for your peel off on the shattered side, like great •

296 THE MID- PACIFIC

screeds of brown paper. This is fairly berry—monstrous flaming akalas—the dry and will burn when nothing else Hawaiian raspberry, and delicate little will. strawberries so small that they are In your search for house material, you scarcely more than a dash of delicious have kept an eye out for dry branches flavor, but these things are found only or twigs with which to follow up your on the uplands of Hawaii or Maui, and Lehua bark, and then, after this, comes mostly in the open—where you are not the regular fuel, a green wood that will likely to have to spend the night. There burn. There are many that will not. I are also bananas, to be sure, great groves remember one occasion when we spent a of them along the streams in the valley good part of the night and a whole bot- bottoms, but they seem to be all leaves tle of kerosene trying, trying to get some and promise, mature or ripening fruit is promising kindling to burn long enough as scarce as the proverbial angel's visits, to warm a pint or two of coffee, and and when you do run across anything of when we got through the coffee wasn't the kind you will find that the birds have nearly as warm as we were. The wood been there before you, and left nothing that I would recommend, based on per- but the empty shrivelled skins. sonal experience and Hawaiian tradition There is also a wild taro, which is haa, though when you once have a grows more or less freely in the swampy good fire almost anything will go that pockets of the ravines, but this too is you have the strength and energy to long on promise and short on realiza- haul in. eon, you may pull up forty dozen of Of course you don't happen to have a them without finding even the promise of little piece of candle in your pocket, any a head. more than you have the bathtub and The probably available things will like- cook-stove ; but if you have, I want to ly simmer down to two, the roots of the suggest a very promising way to get a pala and hapuu ferns. The former has fire without depending on the Lehua an agglomerated root-stalk about the bark. Set up your little bit of candle in size and appearance of a mule's hoof. the ground, light it, and then stack up This is starchy and mucilaginous, and, about it, and over it, a little pile of sticks when roasted, suggests a poor, and and twigs, which, even though they be soggy potato. The latter, which is the wet, will gradually dry out, and take fire, pulu fern, has an arborescent trunk, the in the process melting and consuming interior of which somewhat resembles the candle which is thus sacrificed in its hard yellow soap. This soapy substanc own funeral pyre. when roasted or steamed is fed to p With this assured fire the night takes and on it they seem to thrive. What is on a different aspect, you dry yourself appreciated by swine may be endured by out and fall asleep with the drowsy sense men ; anyway it might suffice to fill the of warmth which may last you well aching void for a time, if not to satisfy through the night. a delicate appetite. The problem of food is a still more On the whole my advice as to how to difficult one, for there is mighty little to spend a comfortable though unpremedi- eat in the Hawaiian forest. There are tated night in the mountains would be no nuts or berries, and very few starchy "Don't do it !" Which like much other or sugary fruits. There are to be sure Hibernian philosophy has more wisdom luscious ohelos—the Hawaiian huckle- than logic in it. II

ADVERTISING SECTION

The Honolulu rapid transit cars take trampers to wondrous haunts. This is a view of one of the seven falls of Palolo in Kaimuki, dis- tant but an hour's tramp from the end of the car line. Seven falls that leap from the lake in the bed of a crater nearly 2000 feet above the Sea. 2 OfF Ic8 ArCcANDELI THE MID-PACIFIC 4 ,'Ji/AIIMIN LTD.

The Home Offices in Honolulu of Alexander & Baldwin. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

en en 'r

Kisen

o Toy d an Co., ion t a ig v Na

tson Ma for ts en d Ag an ts en Ag

rance su In s, tor Fac ar Sug

d., Lt ke, Coo & le t f Cas o ffice O lulu o Hon he T 4 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 5 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corn er of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is w elcome.

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

The Honolulu Home of the Regal Shoe, the Hawaii Shoe Co., King & Bethel Sts.

Drop us a postal for FREE SAMPLES of PINEAPPLE SILK, the beautiful sheer fabric so popular for dainty Summer dresses and evening gowns. In all plain shades and many pretty stripes; 27 to 36 inches wide, 50c to $1.00 per yard. B. F. EHLERS & CO., Honolulu, Hawaii. 0 1 1 1 IVIILJI I. 1 1

The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S .Co., The American-Hawaiian and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.

The Beautiful and Spacious Rotunda of the Hackfeld Building. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies.

A Corner of H. Culman's Factory. The Sales Rooms are at the Corner of Hotel and Fort Streets, Honolulu. Hawaiian Jewelry and Curios. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., and the Honolulu Construction & Draying Co. have their offices at 65 Queen Street. A postal or telephone call (2281) will be re- sponded to by a foreman, who will give full particulars and a careful estimate.

It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to moa and Tonga ; the fare on these Honolulu, and the fare by the Cana- cruises being $5 a day. dian-Australian monthly palatial steam- The Union Steamship Co. makes a ers is $65.00 up, first-class. The through specialty of this cruise. There are fare to Australia is $200, with stop-over cruises, annually, to the wonderful West privileges. These Pacific Ocean grey- Coast sounds of New Zealand, grander hounds stop for a day in Honolulu on than the Fjords of Norway. There are the trips to and from the Australian monthly cruises to the Cook Islands and Colonies. The vessels of this Trans- Tahiti, where direct connection is made Pacific line belong to the Union S. S. for San Francisco. Co. of New Zealand, the third largest steamship company flying the British flag. The Vancouver-Australia boats also stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the native of the South Seas may be seen in his pristine simplicity. A month's stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, may be made to advantage. By the big cruising steamers of the Union Steam- ship Company there is a monthly cruise in either direction, from Auckland to Sydney, stopping at ports of Fiji, Sa-

THE MID-PACIFIC 11

E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets.

Alexander Young Hotel.

"The Blaisdell" is the newest and most up-to- date Hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the Euro- pean plan, being situ- ated in the heart of the city, (Fort Street and Chaplain Lane). It is near all the downtown Clubs, Cafes, and Res- taurants. The rates are moderate—running wa- ter in every room. Pub- lic baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Telephones in all the rooms, ele- vator and pleasant lanais. Mrs. C. A. Blaisdell is the proprietress, as well as of The Majestic, which is a first-class rooming house, corner Beretania and Fort Sts. The Blaisdell.

12 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE YOKOHAMA SPECIE BANK, HONOLULU.

THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF HONOLULU.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its ptemises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since the year 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the Islands, and the institu- tion has ever since been closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon and Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On June 30, 1913, the deposits with this bank amounted to $6.493,462.87. BANK OF HONOLULU, LTD., located in Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It draws exchange on the prin- cipal parts of the world, issues cable The Entrance to the Bank of Hawaii. transfers, and transacts a general bank- ing business. THE MID-PACIFIC 13

If you contemplate building a home, see the architect and then the Hustace- Peck Co. for your draying and crushed rock material. Draying in Honolulu is an important business, and Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., are the pioneers in this line, and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who re- quire them. They also conduct a rock crusher, and supply crushed rock. Their office is at 63 Queen street, and the 'phone number is 2295.

Fort is the leading business street of Honolulu, and above is pictured the in- terior of one of its leading stores, that of H. F. Wichman & Co., Jewelers. Seemingly the big store of H. F. Wichman & Co., Ltd., occupies more than half the block on Fort street be- tween King and Hotel streets. Wich- man's is one of the show places of the city. Here you may profitably spend a day over the great cases of silverware. If you have jewels which need setting, are interested in diamonds, or are look- ing for a weeding present, you will visit Wichman's. The very fashionable shops are in the Alexander Young Building, and the largest of these is that of the Ha- waiian News Co. Here the ultra fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos an dthe Angelus piano player. Eith- er the resident or the tourist Silva's Toggery, on King Street, exhibits the finest dis- will find the Hawaiian play of Men's and Boys' Clothing to be seen in Hawaii. News Co. stores of interest. Everything to equip the polite man is kept in stock. The phone is 224. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC

Sabin, P. Maurice McMahon, H. M. Ayres, C. D. Wright, Sanford B. Dole, Dr. E. V. Wilcox, C. F. Merrill and Jack Densham. There are also extracts dealing with local subjects from the works of Charles Warren Stoddard, Rollin M. Daggett, Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain. Three editions, De Luxe, limited to 100 copies, bound in Limp Art leather, silk lined, deckle edge paper, illustrated with photographs. A dainty gift edition, $5.00. Tapa bound in Hawaiian tapa, boards, a souvenir edition, $1.50. Paper bound, in rough cover paper, a pocket edition, $1. For sale at all book stores, or address Charles D. Wright, P. 0. Box 455, Honolulu, T. H. The HAWAIIAN EXPRESS Co., phone phone 2464 makes a specialty of country hauling, although every kind of expres- "Bits of Verse From Hawaii" is the sage is attended to with dispatch. The title of a beautiful little volume that home of the Company is the big red front has recently come from the press, and building at the corner of Queen and Nuu- it is everything that its name implies. anu streets. This company is under a These "bits of verse" have been culled reliable management and it can give as by C. D. Wright from the many sources reference the leading business men of the visitors and kamaainas use to express city and the banks. their love for Hawaii, and are right from the heart, and were written with never The OAHU ICE and ELECTRIC Co. sup- a thought that they would find their way plies the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper into a compilation that would help to im- rate than the United States Government mortalize the most beautiful spot on can buy ice in Alaska. The works and earth—Hawaii : beloved by all its resi- cold storage rooms are in the Kakaako dents and by all who visit and pass on. district, but a phone message to 1218 will The poems have been culled by Mr. answer every purpose as the company Wright from the files of the local papers has its auto delivery trucks. for the past fifteen or twenty years, a ma- The HAWAIIAN CARRIAGE MANUFAC- jority of them having been originally TURING CO. at 427 Queen St., phone published in the. Advertiser. Those who 2447, does the carriage repairing and glance through the collection will be sur- building in Honolulu. This concern can prised at the almost universal high qual- build a buggy or carriage from start to ity of the verse, which includes much finish, and having been in business many written by amateurs, as well as recog- years in Hawaii, it understands the exact nized gems from Robert Louis Stevenson requirements for the roads and the dif- and other geniuses who have visited Ha- ferent sections in the Islands. The waii or made their homes here. spacious workshops are always busy. The verses are from the pens of a The KERSHNER VULCANIZING WORKS number of local writers, including Mary are on Alakea St., near the Royal Ha- Dillingham Frear, Anna M. Paris, Em- waiian Hotel, and here tires that are old ma L. Dillingham, Anne M. Prescott, and worn are made good as new. If you Eleanor Rivenburgh, Anna C. Dole, are in trouble with your tires or auto, Leola Harvey-Elder, Annie M. Felker, phone 2434, or send your tires down. Tom McGiffen, E. S. Goodhue, W. F. Tires and inner tubes are always in stock. THE MID-PACIFIC 15 Honolulu Trust Companies The Trent Trust Co., incorporated in with offices in the Bank of Hawaii Build- 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, ing. the Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a now has $100,000 in fully-paid cash $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 capital and an earned surplus account of issued and paid, occupies the spacious $20,000. Its assets have grown until quarters at the corner of Fort and they stand now at $270,000 gross ; and Merchant streets. Here the wireless the policy of the Company in conserving system for Hawaii was born, and housed until very recently. There are spacious the financial and property interests of its vaults for valuable papers, insurance de- clients has proven so satisfactory to its partment, real estate feature, and every patrons that its list of customers shows department common to the up-to-date steady growth from year to year ; and trust company. The managers were for three different times has it been found years associated with Henry Water- necessary to enlarge its quarters in order house, before the firm that had stood for to handle its increasing business. The half a century was incorporated as a Trent Trust Co. makes a specialty of trust company. The telephone number handling estates, collecting incomes, and is 1208. investing surplus or idle funds. In this THE FIRST TRUST CO. of Hilo, Ltd., branch of its business it has clients in is one of the rapidly growing institutions many parts of the world, including the of the Crescent City. Situated in the British Isles, Europe, China, Japan, and bank building it is in the heart of the the American mainland from Boston to business center and every year its busi- San Francisco and up into Canada. The ness shows a substantial increase. C. C. Company also does a large real estate Kennedy is President and H. B. Mari- and general insurance business, repre- ner, Treasurer and Manager. senting in the Islands the Mutual Life Insurance Co. of New York, and some strong fire companies. Its membership in the Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- change enables it to buy and sell securi- ties on the best favorable terms. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com- munity. The Company was incorporated HAWAII & SOUTH SEAS CURIO CO., in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 Alexander Young Building. Hawaiian fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated Handicraft, Oriental Fabrics, Silks, doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, Drawn Work, Grass Linens, Fans, the Capital of the Company was $200,- Basketry, Hats, Souvenir Jewelry, Post- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided cards, etc. The Largest Pacific-Souvenir Profits $22,573..7. It conducts a trust House in the World. Stands at Moana, company business in al lits various lines Alexander Young and Royal Hawaiian 16 THE MID-PACIFIC ACROSS THE PACIFIC

One of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and Honolulu, via Tehuantepec. There are two ways to Hawaii, Aus- Francisco by this line. The Pacific Mail tralia and Japan. From San Francisco dispatches a steamer for the Orient every or from Vancouver. From San Fran- ten days, stopping at Honolulu. cisco the Oceanic S. S. Co. dispatches From Vancouver the Canadian-Aus- one of its boats every two weeks to Ho- tralian Line dispatches one of its splendid nolulu. Every four weeks one of its ves- steamers every fourth Wednesday via sels stops at Honolulu and goes on to Honolulu, Suva and Auckland to Sydney. Australia. The "Niagara", the largest and finest The Matson Navigation Co. also navi- gates vessels to Hawaii, and through steamship playing south of the line, is on tickets to Australia are sold from San this run.

A View of Kaimuki from Wilhelmina Rise.

The lands of the Palolo Land and Improvement Co., Kaimuki, Office McCandless Building. THE MID-PACIFIC 17 New South Wales Tourist Bureau tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- tions, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more Physical configuration and a wide marvelous or beautiful system of caves range of climate give the State of New than these at Jenolan, which tourists South Wales its wonderful diversity of from everywhere have marked as their scenery, its abundance of magnificent own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- plemented and rivalled by the extensive ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- bewildering array of scenic attractions, ly, a little further away from Sydney. and the peculiar strangeness of the forms In the south on the Australian Alps, of its animal and vegetable life, which lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which makes New South Wales one of the most contains the highest peak in the Conti- interesting countries in the world, and nent, and is said to be the oldest land sur- one which an up-to-date, well-traveled face on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, tourist must see. a modern spa, replete with every conve- The climate of the State ranges from nience, golf links and tennis courts, an the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the ers, and withal is one of the most equable mountaineer and trout fisherman stays in the world. Its eastern shore is washed here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific summit, or fill his bag with fish caught and stretches by meadow, tableland and in a handy stream, and in winter the ski- mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels the rim of the setting sun. in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the Sydney, the capital, is the great tour- glistening snowfields. ist rendezvous. It is an important com- The Government Tourist Bureau, a mercial center, but the incomparable splendidly equipped Institution at Challis beauty of its situation has given it wide- House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- spread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to harbor with its peculiar and sustained all inquirers in connection with the tour- beauty, is the talk of the world. North ist resorts of the State. Special itinera- and South from the capital is flung the ries are planned, and everything possible rugged Pacific coast, with its line of is done by the Bureau to facilitate the golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating mcvernents and put to the best use the haunts of the surf bather. time of visitors while in New South Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- Wales. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Kahului Railway now connects Kahului with the Wailuku, Puunene, Paia, and the new Haiku pineapple district. A trip over the line is one not to be forgotten.

The Maui Stables in Wailuku maintain THE HILO MERCANTILE CO., LTD., is an auto, rig, and horseback service to also a concern that helps Hilo grow. It every available part of the Island of is connected with its own planing mill, Maui. If you contemplate a trip to so that you may order your house, from Haleakala, around the Island of Maui, or lumber to furnishings, including plumb- a stay on that island, communicate with ing and hardware from the big store of the Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., on Front the Maui Stables, or call for the infor- street, which is filled with every kind of mation at the office of Wells-Fargo & general merchandise, and is well worth Co., in Honolulu. a visit, whether you are tourist or resi- E. N. HOLMES, on Waianuenue street, dent. is the pioneer merchant and has the big department store in Hilo. The man who intends to locate in Hilo and ex- YOE. SEAVNERN pand with the city will necessarily con- TERRITGRY sult with E. N. Holmes of the big de- partment store. If he is a man he will SYER outfit himself here, while the woman SiRALIA SOUTH does her shopping for the home with this AUSTRALIA, NEW oldest and best of department stores on SOUTH WALES 011 the big island. It is interesting to the tourist also to visit this typical emporium of the Island of Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

One of the oldest and most reliable in hermetically-sealed tins for use in the business houses of Honolulu is that of tropics at no extra charge. Allen & Robinson on Queen street, People don't usually die in Honolulu, phone 2105. This firm for generations but when they do they phone in ad- has supplied the people of Honolulu vance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 and those on the other islands with Fort street, phone number 1408, and their building materials and paints. he arranges the after details. If you Their office is on Queen street, near the are a tourist and wish to be interred Inter-Island S. S. Building, and their in your own plot on the mainland, lumber yards extend right back to the Williams will embalm you ; or he will harbor front, where every kind of hard arrange all details for interment in and soft wood grown on the coast is Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise landed by the schooners that ply to of the Pacific for any other, but if you Puget Sound. must, let your friends talk it over with Music is not neglected in Hawaii. Williams. Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian Conserva- tory in the Alexander Young building, and here he teaches the use of the native ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that provides all of the .Social Music for Honolulu. In Hawaii people dance to vocal as well as to instrumental music and all of Kaai's musicians arc excellent singers, who sing in both English and in Hawaiian. From Kaai's Glee Club the youth of Hawaii learn the songs of the people. Ernest Kaai can supply a quartette for a small dance or as many as fifty musicians for a big public affair. It is worth while visiting the studio and studying the native Hawaiian musi- cal instruments. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort street, are the largest T1,e Pacific Private Sanatorium, phone in the Territory and well worth a visit 1153 or address Miss Jessie Rae, Ke- at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but walo street, Honolulu, for terms. little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen In building your house, and after, you bottles up. The Consolidated is agent will need the expressman. The easiest foi Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola way is to phone orders to 1281. This is Mint aerated water that is delicious, be- the City Transfer Co., Jas .H. Love, sides a score of other flavors. Phone manager, King St., near Fort. 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak headquarters, Fort Street, develops and prints for tourists within a few hours. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- graps, etc., always in stock. Develop- ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a dozen ; roll films, 60 cents a dozen ; printing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed 20 THE MID-PACIFIC Australia for the Tourist Climate exerts a wonderful influence dezvous for fashion and beauty, who on scenery. The Continent of Austra- revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- lia—a vast territory equal in extent to lights of ski-running, ice-skating and the United States of America—with its tobogganing. finger tips almost reaching the equator In every State are extensive series at Cape York, the northern extremity of underground caves — at Chillagoe of Queensland, and Tasmania dipping its Caves in Queensland, Jenolan, Wom- feet in the icy waters of the Southern beyan and Yarrangobilly in New Ocean, for 200 miles it boldly sweeps South Wales—at Buchan in Victoria, from north to south through the trop- Naracoorte in South Australia, Yal- ical, subtropical and temperate zones. lingup in Western Australia, and at But by far the biggest part lies Chudleigh in Tasmania. They are of within the temperate zone, and enjoys bewildering extent and transcendental a remarkably equable and salubrious beauty. climate, like that of southern France Australian rivers are miniatures and Italy. The proof of the salubrity compared to the Amazon or Hudson, of the Australian climate is reflected in but there are those who prefer a mini- the fact that the country's death rate ature to a large canvas. What Austra- is the lowest in the world. lian streams may lack in grandeur is Australia has much to show the richly compensated for by their com- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- pelling beauty and abiding charm. terest and pleasure for the round-the- The Australian coastline is a world . world traveler, and for the political of delightful holiday places. There is and social student. a stupendous chain of rocky promon- It is true it holds no single out- tories endlessly linked by golden standing feature which may be held beaches of glistening sands, washed by before the world as without parallel. the foaming breakers of the Blue Pa- Australia has no falls like Niagara, no cific. Surfbathing by both sexes in canyons like Colorado, nor river like Australia's glorious sunshine has come the Mississippi. It nevertheless has to be a feature of the National Life. many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, Australia possesses several magnifi- like the Barron Falls in Queensland, cent lacustrine districts, notably the and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Gippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes Wales. It has many magnificent trout of the Tasmania Tableland—Great streams, notably the Goodradigbee and Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Upper Murray, which have by experi- Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- enced anglers been given pride of inant note of these secluded spots is place before the famous Scottish their air of restful quiet, where tired streams. It has many chains of moun- constitutions renew their vitality and tains, not of the titanic proportions of Overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. the Andes or Rockies, but which con- Australia teems with scenic resorts, tain stupendous bluffs and gaping distinct and unique, just because they chasms, and have a dis'tinct and ap- are Australian. Australia has its own pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- characteristics, its very atmosphere is tains -are known wherever Australia is Australian ; its landscape colorings be- known, for their peculiar atmospheric long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna mantle which always enshrouds them, and flora absolutely apart. for their gorgeous colorings, their fairy- Full information concerning Austra- lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- lia as a country for the Tourist may be cades and waterfalls. At Kosciusko, obtained from the Secretary, Depart- Australia's greatest mountain, higher ment of External Affairs, Melbourne, than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- and the Directors of the Government falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Tourist Bureaux in the Capitals of tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Ade- ter, and these resorts are made the ren- laide, Perth and Hobart. THE MID -PACIFIC 21

Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the lishment represents in the Territory the chief port and from Hilo excusions are largest manufacturers of shoes in the made up to all the points of interest. The mainland, among them being Hanan & Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken Son, the M. A. Packard Company, and up the matter of home promotion work Laird Schober & Company. Children's and is developing the wonderful scenic shoes and bare-foot sandals are made a surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being specialty of and are carried in a great cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in variety. Visitors will receive courteous order. It was-the Hilo Board of Trade attention. that called the first civic convention The railways of the four islands now which is now bringing all the Hawaiian make considerable money hauling pine- Islands together to work for each other. apples. Probably the best pineapples in The Hilo Board of Trade is taking the the world are those raised at Wahiawa, lead in Home promotion work in these between the two mountain ranges of islands. In this line of work the Hilo Oahu. A railway was built from Hono- Board of Trade has the hearty co-opera- lulu to this district to bring the pine- tion of the Hilo Railway. This Railway apples to the cannery. It is at Wahiawa has recently extended its rails thirty- two that the Thomas Pineapple Co. has its miles along the precipitous coasts of choice plantations, and daily the fresh Lapauhoehoe and beyond. This thirty- pineapples are brought by rail to their two mile rail trip is one of the scenic cannery in Honolulu where the brand trips of the world. The Hilo Railway known as "Thomas' Best" is put up. also extends in the opposite direction to This is the finest brand sent out from the hot springs of Puna, and a branch Hawaii. with the Auto Service takes the tourist The Hawaiian Islands were first to from the steamer wharf to the edge of use the wireless system, away back in the ever active Kilauea. On the line of 1899. The Federal Wireless Telegraph the Hilo Railway are scores of steel Company has made Honolulu the first bridges, some built almost in the form of city in the world to receive its entire a horse-shoe. Many of these bridges morning newspaper news from across were designed and constructed by the the seas by wireless. The Federal Wire- Pacific Engineering Co. of Honolulu, less supplies a minimum of 1500 words a which company also supervised the con- night to one morning paper. It never struction of the steel bridges along the fails to get these messages from either line of the Kahului Railway on the Isl- San Francisco or Japan. It is erecting and of Maui, as well as constructing the an equipment that will enable it to re- Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu. ceive and send messages 24 hours of the Honolulu and Hawaii are fortunate in day. having a plumbing establishment such as the one of E. W. Quinn, who has erected in Honolulu what is probably the most complete and up-to-date plumbing estab- lishment this side of the Rockies. So it is that the great and small buildings of Honolulu and Hawaii are enabled to put in the most sanitary and up-to-date The Standard Optical Co., in the plumbing at a minimum cost. There is Pantheon block on Fort St., Honolulu, no job too large or too small in the terri- grind lenses on the spot, thereby insur- tory for this perfectly equipped estab- ing perfection without delay. lishment to handle. You will do well to drop in and have Located on Fort Street, just a few a chat with Mr. Seymore about your doors from King is the Mclnerny Shoe eyes—this will cost only your time and Store. All kinds of shoes at all prices may save many dollars—you are wel- for all people. This metropolitan estab- come. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE DONNA is an exclusive family lowest prices on carriage and wagon hotel composed of several cottages, be- work. Mr. Lee Kau came to the Islands tween Keeaumoku and Piikoi streets. The twenty years ago. appointments at this hotel are perfect and VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages the home cooking makes it a residence of and a spacious house in a luxurious gar- permanent guests, although many tourists den of palms, which is located at 1040 are accommodated in the season. King street, where cars pass every five THE SEASIDE HOTEL, as its name im- minutes toward the business center, or plies, is at Waikiki, where the famous toward Waikiki beach. Rates per day, surf-riders come up to the beach on their 41.50; by the month, $35.00 up. This boards. This hotel is the one, ideal home hotel is within walking distance tropical hotel in Honolulu, with the of "down town." Mrs. L. B. Evans is thatched cottages scattered here and proprietor of this beautiful property. there among the royal coconut grove. Phone 1146. The terms are moderate and the appoint- THE MACDONALD is situated in the ments all that can be desired. THE JOHNSON HOUSE on Punchbowl fashionable Punahou quarter, a stately street, within a block of the capitol colonial building at the end of a double Building, is in an ideal location for the row of royal palms. On Punahou street, man of family who must live near the adjoining the Governor's residence, the business center. Being near all the mar- Macdonald is convenient to either the kets, the table at the Johnson House is Hotel street or Wilder avenue car lines. favorable, and the terms extremely mod- The rates are : $2.00 per day, $14.00 per erate. week, $60.00 per month and up. Mrs. THE HAWAII THEATER, under the di- Margaret Macdonald, proprietor. rection of Mr. I. Scharlin, is the little Ever since his arrival in the Hawaiian money-maker of Honolulu. It shows Islands thirty-seven years ago, Mr. Goo the newest and best films and does not Kim Fook has been held in high esti- gabble with the vaudeville, and is crowd- mation by his associates and the gen- ed twice a night as it is the one open eral public, until today he stands as a theater in Honolulu that makes a spe- leader among the Chinese and as part cialty of first run pictures. owner and manager of the Kong Sang Honolulu was the first city in the world Yuen Co., dry goods store, at 1017 Nuu- to install a house to house telephone sys- anu St., between King and Hotel Sts., tem. The MUTUAL TELEPHONE CO. iS and receives the trade of all nationali- now perfecting the system on thz other ties. Mr. Fook is interested in all edu- islands, having installed the automatic cational movements and has two fine system which gives perfect satisfaction, sons, one in school and the other one allowing a man of any nationality use associated with him in business at the the phone. The Marconi Wireless Sys- Kong Sang Yuen Co., store—a good tem has its office in the same building as place to trade. that of the Mutual Telephone Co., so that wireless messages can be sent or received by telephone. At the corner of Beretania and Aala Sts.,, stands the business of Lee Kau, who is the principal owner and manager of the Lee Kau Co., experts in making and repairing wagons and carriages of all description—in fact Lee Kau guar- antees satisfaction—people wishing vehi- cles of any description should get in touch with the Lee Kau Co. Telephone 1944. Lee Kau Co. will give you the THE MID-PACIFIC 23

One hardly realizes the immense re- are received by every steamer. This is sources of the grocery store of Henry the bargain book store of the city. May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort The oldest established Dry Goods street, unless one spends a couple of House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situat- hours taking stock of the domestic and ed at the corner of Fort and Beretania imported eatables and drinkables there Sts. For over a quarter of a century sold. Not only the largest grocery this store has held an enviable reputa- store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- tion for high-class merchandise. The ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. are beautiful court dresses worn at the re- ceptions and balls in the days of the rightly called "The Housekeepers' Ally" Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this —as housewives have learned to depend firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the on everything this firm sells. They make rendezvous for ladies who desired the a specialty of fine Kona (native) Coffee very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, and have installed a gas roaster and cof- Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces fee mill to make this product ready for and Millinery. the customer. Every steamer brings The business man in Hawaii outfits his Fresh California Fruit and Vegetables, office from the American-Hawaiian Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale and Puritan Creamery Butter, for cus- and retail headquarters are at the cor- tomers—many of whom have traded with ner of Fort and Queen streets. If there Henry May & Co. since the firm started, is anything from paper bags to blank many years ago. books, paper of any quality, from a pound to a ton, the American-Hawaiian In front of the Chambers Drug Store, Paper Supply Company can fill the con- at the corner of Fort and King streets, tract. the main street car lines intersect ; here No home is complete in Honolulu the shoppers and business men wait for without a ukulele, a piano and a Vic their cars. Usually they count on miss- for talking machine. The Bergstrom ing a car or two while they sit and chat Music Co., with its big store on Fort street, will provide you with these—a at the open soda fountain that the Cham- Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for bers Drug Company has placed before your mansion, or a tiny upright Bou- their spacious open doorway on the cor- doir for your cottage ; and if you are ner. At Chambers' drug store the be- a transient it will rent you a piano. The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, wildered tourist of the day from the big books your theater tickets for the liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's Royal Hawaiian Opera House. bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the Kona Coffee means the real bean country, advised as to the sights of the grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, city, supplied with any perfumes, can- the McChesney Coffee Co., on Mer- dies or drugs he may need during his chant street, makes a specialty of aging and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee stay, and made to feel at home. bean. You may phone an order for a The Cross Roads Book Shop adjoins sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to be the Hawaiian News Co., and is a contin- sent to friends in the States, but it is better to call in person and learn some- uation of the great fashionable bazaar. thing of this Hawaiian product, used in In the Cross Roads Book Store the liter- the States by coffee blenders to lend ature of America, Europe and the Orient flavor to the insipid South American is kept in stock The novels of the day coffee that floods the market. • • ▪ • ▪ • •

24 THE MID-PACIFIC

■ .0 I%l • .< Z Ci) cd 0 cl-) cn cr cd c.) cd cd ;c ' -; ,,, = 8 F, .4., O 0 .-7-1 .0 ti •-ill• 0 . 47. 4-1 0 E 4 (i) ti "0 ,.0, 4-. e..) W E--I -,E▪ cl) ed I-, 0) cdI. ..z3 L C.7 cd cd > 4, cl) ."") 4) M TISC3 ,..1 "1--' •-.C'S Ink ligt ▪ 4, 4, cdZ 0 .21- 1.., Cl. °cd cd cd • cn .."7.,:..4 42' • • 1.., ....., ..6 c.,, 5.1 ,,, v) 3-. = .3.) --- ht..- • : . a u, u cd Cfl ca, a., v) v 6 = 0 c'cl > 71s (i) u 4- ...... --. E' cn > .—, - --e '-•- " U O "cj - m , 0 31 ., 2. . . .. .,7) ; ,_ x u 0, .-c, > ....6 v 0 „, ( ::) ; . 7-173. . ,r, v. ): -g.o: ..‘ 3 9c v. .; )0 . i g: (:. . . . ) O 0 1... -F. .2, .,, .= 4) 0.. cn ci) , z cl 0 0 0=0=xEctl 1-. cn ,,, ,,, < '-" = Z c) a 1... cz •-, 0 -1-S-. cc) •,.c)) U 4., U ›, (I) .42.- 8 — 4 6 cd cr, .73' v '-' X , p. , Z .) , ( - ) c' 4-, E -ili 1 E 0.1 cru •-• • al: ,a ,,„ al• 1) ..."0c-.4 4.6 --.tij> 6 •c-t. I Oth) • 0 cad ct t ;-■ "0 I. •—.. U g _CM A., ■ c'S •,t z ° U s.. 1, E x _ .QvIhr0 = al v. >t/i 00 Z c0 THE MID-PACIFIC 25

I wonder how many people know the origin of the "Algaroba Tree". The word "Algaroba" is derived from the Greek word Ceratonia, meaning horn, in reference to the large pod. It is a tree originally of the Mediteranean basin and belongs to the Cassia tribe. The only species remaining, when discovered, are now widely distributed in the semi-tropical climates of the world and are very valuable for both shade and its edible pods. "Algaroba" trees grow to a height of fifty feet or more, are always green and bearing. In Europe the "Algaroba" beans are highly prized for fattening live stock; even in the markets of the North the dry pods are to be seen. The Longissima variety differs only in having very long pods. In the Hawaiian Islands the "Algaroba" grows abundantly and harvests large returns for the owner as well as to provide excellent shade for stock. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have, after many years study in the grinding of "Algaroba" beans, finally decided upon the use of a mill manufactured exclusively by the Williams Patent Crusher & Pulverizing Co. of St. Louis, Mo. This is the only mill which has been proven to grind "Alga- roba" beans to a consistency wherein all the food values are obtained. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have the exclusive agency for these mills in the Hawaiian Islands. By feeding "Algaroba" food you will get "more milk from your cows," "fatter hogs, beef and poultry for the market," "more eggs from your hens," "better looking and stronger horses for show or work," and at a less cost than any other grain food. The Union Feed Co. of Honolulu in addition to the "Algaroba bean food carry a full line of imported hay and grains for stock purposes. Enquiry by mail will be promptly replied to. Address all communications to UNION FEED CO., Honolulu, T. H. Cable address, Ajax. A beautiful and somewhat valuable pic- written in view of acquainting the incom- ture is often ruined by neglecting to have ing tourist of an excellent place to pro- it framed. The ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, cure meals while in the city. Table-d-hote LTD., 1122 Fort street, Honolulu, T. H., lunches and dinners at popular prices are experts in the art of picture framing prevail and it is needless to say the crui- and will guarantee satisfaction and serv- sine is the best the market affords. ice. Bring in your Picture today and Prompt service and courteous treatment talk it over. Picture sent by mail will is the slogan of the "Union Grill" on be promptly frame and returned. Don't King Street, ask anybody to direct you forget the name ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, when hungry. Mr. J. D. Detor, who LTD., 1122 Fort St., Honolulu, T. H. has had many years' experience in hotel "Maile" Australian butter frrom the and cafe work, is in charge. Metropolitan Meat Market on King St., Probably one of the most widely known stands at the head for flavor and keeping wholesale commission merchants in the quality and is guaranteed. It is here Hawaiian Islands is F. E. DAVIES & Co. you also get the tender meats and fresh corner Merchant and Nuuanu streets. vegetables of which an abundant supply It is here you may place orders for is always on hand. Heilbron & Louis Wagons, Bicycles and Bicycle Tires. proprietors, have built up a wonderful Hardware, Dry Goods, Shoes, heavy business through constancy and many Chemicals for plantation use, all kinds years' experience until now the METRO- and sizes of Rubber Hose and Belting, POLITAN MEAT MARKET is the central and in fact nearly all commodities, of and most popular market place in Hono- commercial value can be ordered through' lulu. Telephone 1814. this enterprising concern. Enquiries by While the UNION GRILL is recognized mail will receive prompt attention and as the most popular Cafe in Honolulu by those who call at our offices will receive all progressive Hawaiians, this article is courteous treatment. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 27

41$11611111 ■uJ

Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment.

The VON HAMM YOUNG Co., Import- successful "Chicken" raising in the Ha- ers, Machinery Merchants and leading waiian Islands. automobile dealers, have their offices and On or about January 1st, 1914, the store in the Alexander Young Building, KELLOGG AUTO & REPAIR SHOP, Mr. C. at the corner of King and Bishop Sts., E. Kellogg proprietor, will move into and their magnificent automobile sales- the new building now being erected at room and garage just in the rear, facing the corner of South and King streets, a on Alakea street. Here one may find few doors mauka of the present location. almost anything desired in the machin- A fully equipped machine shop will be ery line, as well as the most extensive installed in the new building so that auto and complete line of automobile supplies repairing and all kinds of machine work in the Islands, to say nothing of the large will go hand in hand. A picture of the stock of automobiles. new building will be shown in the next number of this magazine. Chicken raising in the Hawaiian Isl- ands can be successfully carried on at a profit of from 50 to 100 per cent. The "CALIFORNIA FEED Co." of Honolulu will give full instructions to anyone who is interested in "Chicken" raising as to the best methods of procedure, how to start, how to avoid and cure sore-head and some general dont's in the raising of "Chickens" will be given free to those who answer this article. Just drop a line to the "CALIFORNIA FEED Co.", Ho- nolulu, for full information regarding 28 THE MID-PACIFIC

A Typical Hawaiian Coconut Grove. THE MID -PACIFIC

Unadulterated bread and pastry is an leaders of men and his management to- essential need in every home—the Sam gether with Mr. Wong Vun, who studied Wo Co., bakery at 384 North Beretania in the famous Mitchell School of Tailor- St., under the management of S. Lum ing in New York City, as a partner, Fat, has for years supplied the homes of make the W. W. Ahana Co. hard to ex- Honolulu with pure bread and pastry. cel as exclusive tailors. A steady growth of the business clearly Rising from a common gardener of demonstrates what the quality must be 43 years ago, Mr. Y. Ahin is now the —telephone orders are promptly deliv- possessor of many lands and a fine family ered to all parts of the city. of children all born in these Islands. At A suit of clothes made by the W. W. the age of sixty years he supervises his Ahana Co., on King St., Honolulu, de- vast estate, and is hale and hearty with notes correct style, fit and selection from a proud father in China at the ripe old exclusive imported fabrics of exclusive age of ninety-four years ; over $2000.00 pattern and design. Mr. Chuck Hoy is a month is his monthly rental collec- known to all who keep in touch with tions for improved property. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID - PACIFIC 31

In June, 1911, Dr. Dai Yen Chang years experience as a manufacturer of opened in the McCandless Building at fine furniture qualifies him to supply the corner of Pauahi and Nuuanu Sts., your needs quickly and at reasonable the first Chinese dentist offices in Hono- prices for guaranteed work. lulu—at twenty-five years of age he is The Oahu Fish Market on King St., a graduate of the Northwestern Univer- Honolulu, is one of the most interesting sity Dental Department of Chicago with show places in the city—here one may the degree of D.D.S.—his clientel con- see all the types of the different nation- sists of all nationalities, and at times his alities of the islands as well as the dif- office is filled with people of all nations. ferent species of edible fish found in the There is no doubt about the YEE Yi Hawaiian waters—several merchants are CHAN, Chinese restaurant at 119 Hotel interested in this market although Mr. St., being the best Chinese restaurant in Y. Anin is the leading spirit and Honolulu. It simply is. Upstairs one founder. can get the best Chinese dinner of any- The City Mill Co., Mr. C. K. Ai, where in the Islands and that's going Treasurer and Manager, with plant lo- some. Tourists will do well to ask about cated at Queen and Kekaulike streets, the Yee Yi Chan Chinese Restaurant constitutes one of the leading industrial while sojourning here. enterprises in Honolulu and do a flour- The most popular Chinese dry goods ishing lumber and mill business. The up- store in Honolulu is the YEE CHAN & to-date mill stands as a monument to CO., store at the corner of King and pluck and energy on the part of Mr. Ai Bethel Sts. Tourists will do well to re- and his associates. member that it is here they can buy the Yang Cheu Kiam is a druggist and finest imported Chinese and Japanese has three popular stores in Honolulu, Silks as well as a full and complete one at 1071 Aala St., one at 1036 Mau- stock of imported Fancy Dry Gooas, nakea St., and at the corner of Bere- Grass Linen Goods, Clothing, Hats, tania and Fort Sts. Arriving in Hono- Shoes, Trunks, Traveling Cases, etc., lulu in 1882 with nothing but a fair etc.—remember the name YEE CHAN & education he has advanced to his pres- Co., Honolulu, Hawaii. ent position as a druggist, also as a One of the most enterprising con- large property holder—he is very gen- cerns, in Honolulu, is that of the Quong erous and deserves his many successes Sam Kee Co., at the corner of King and in life. Maunakea Sts. This firm, under the Mr. Lee Chu of the Lee Chu Lumber management of Mr. Chu Gem, who is Co., at Pauahi and River Sts., was the recognized as one of Hawaii's leading first Chinese to engage in the lumber Chinese, carry a full line of general business in Hawaii, and his steadily merchandise, and drugs, supplying the growing business denotes him to be a local dealers throughout the territory. leader in the lumber trade as his well- Mr. K. 0. Kam, manager and organ- stocked yards indicate. Mr. Lee Chu is izer of the City Mercantile Co., at 24 the principal owner and manager of this Hotel St., Honolulu, is ranked as one of large and progressive company: the rising young business men of the Lee Chuck at 729 Alakea St., for- city—dealers in all household utensils, merly known as Achew Brothers, do a courteous treatment is extended to all thriving business in Dry Goods, Grocer- who do business with them. ies, Fruits and Vegetables of all kinds Exclusiveness of design in furniture with free deliveries to any part of the is now desired by nearly every one. Mr. city. Lee Chuck stands high in the Lee Koon, at 1114 Smith St., Honolulu, estimation of business men throughout will furnish designs and make furniture the community and deserves generous for. your home, store or office ; his many patronage for his many, good deeds.

32 1 HE MID-PACIFIC • • 1-7,Cit • trigttrilirielYemitrictriNV

Waimea Valley, on the'line of the Oahu Railway & Land Co., which is seen in this picture, once supported thousands of Hawaiians, but tens now remain. Daily the railway train dashes by this old stronghold of the Hawaiians, and nearby is an ancient temple or Heiau, well preserved.

1,11)1„1, 1, 11.1),}4.1n1,14.41,11 1

PRINTED BY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST. BRANCH