E6ST MOJAUE NATIONEL SCENIC AREE GUIDE U.S. Department of the lnterior Bureau of Land Management

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THE EAST MOJAVE lion acres are federal public lands locate critical services such as NATIONAL SCENIC AREA . . . managed by BLM, with the remain- gasoline, drinking water, and tele- a unique desert region fullof der under state or private owner- phones. It would also be a good scenic, historic, and natural ship. idea to consult the mileage chart on wonders. . . awaits your visit! Here the map page in the center of this you can explore magnificent sand The information and map provided guide. dunes, intriguing geologic fea- in this guide will help you prepare tures, unique plant communities, for a safe and rewarding trip to one You will also want to be prepared old Army "forts," and historic of the most exciting desert areas in with the proper clothing and equip- Indian and explorer routes through our Nation. Before you start, you ment to make sure your trip will the desert. You can camp under should study the map carefully and provide many pleasant memories. trillions of stars, enjoy the antics of a jackrabbit, and discover the beauty of a beavertail cactus in fulI Oar,*errto bloom. Or you can just relax in the peace and serenity of the world ealr,liae Rezoqrr&l l3 of nature. *talartq l4 Administered by the Bureau of Tlhp 8&? Land Management (BLM), the ?hrata l2 East Mojave was designated as a ?a*rto al ?c4te/*/f 5 National Scenic Area in 1980 and Reovalata,l Op.l*ztcutlt;a, is an integral part of the Califomia Desert Conservation Area created Reotan*a, tt by Congress in 1976. Eighty per- ?/,/ZW l2 cent of the Scenic Area's 1.5 mil- Items you should consider Weather bringing include a wide-brimmed hat, sun screen, sunglasses, Nothing is as certain as the Winters are cool and damp with hiking boots, first aid kit, some unpredictability of the weather. subfreezing temperatures com- food, at least a gallon of water Be prepared for extreme vari- mon at night at all elevations, and per day for each person in your ations in temperature, particu- occasional snow flurries above party, toilet paper, flashlight, at larly in winter. Summer can 3,000 feet. Daytime highs can least one long-sleeved shirt, and bring violent thunderstorms and fall anywhere between 40o and a jacket. Have your car and tires the threat of flash floods, even if 70o F. Many experienced desert checked leaving before home, it isn't raining where you are. visitors prefer summer's longer and make you have sure enough days and pleasant evenings over gas to get the next to service Summers are hot, with lower winter's long freezing nights. station. elevation daytime highs usually above 110" F. Many popular Spring and fall can Services be variable, destinations are above 4,500 feet, with a greater chance of strong where temperatures are 10-20 winds, but offer a chance to see Gasoline, drinking water, and degrees cooler lhan on the desert the Scenic Area at its best. telephones are found widely floor. Always plan on cool October to November and March dispersed around the East evenings while visiting the through mid-May are the most Mojave. Gas can be found at desert' s pinyon/juniper wood- popular periods. three locations along the perime- lands, and bring insect repellant ter of the Scenic Area with mini- or netting to protect against mal food supplies and/or cafes at biting insects and flies. Goffs, Cima, Nipton, and the I-l5/Cima Road junction. All services are available at Baker. For more details, see map insert and consult mileage chart.

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"arzagt/,Flo RECREATIONAL OPPORTU N ITI ES EXPLORING THE SCENIC AREA

A wide variety of recreational oppornmities exist within the Scenic Area, meeting almost everyone's interests and desires. The Scenic Area also provides excellent oppornrnities for motor vehicle, bicycle, or horseback riding enthusiasts. While much of the area is accessible by two- wheel-drive vehicles, high- clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicles are advisable for back country travel.

Two four-wheel drive interpretive trails cross the region. The Mojave Road-a 130-mile historic Native American trade route, later developed into a wagon trail---+rosses east-west through the heart of the East t4lnaaa7 a/&4" ?Aeld/roup eazqa.o Mojave. The East Mojave gaQ Heritage Trail-a TOGmile loop Oarrr4rn / 3?zr4t/ trail beginning and ending in Needles-runs through much of the East Mojave region. For safety, visitors using these routes Access - Desert soils and vegeta- With the use of good maps, this should travel in groups. lnterpre- tion are fragile and slow to recover can be a very exciting experi- tive guidebooks for these trails are when impacted by human use. In ence. Old mining roads in the available for purchase or on loan response to this, all motor vehicles New York, Castle, Clark, and from the Califomia Desert lnfor- are required to stay on approved Providence Mountains also make mation Center in Barstow, the routes. (See BLM's New York and good hiking routes. Looking for Needles Resource Area, or from Providence Mountains Desert a developed trail? Trails can be the Califomia Desert District Access Guides for detailed informa- found in the Piute Range, Provi- office in Riverside. tion.) Equestrian and bicycle users dence Mountains, and between should minimize any travel off Hole-in-the-Wall and Midhills As part of the Scenic Byways existing roads and trails. You may campgrounds. Short hikes within program, BLM is designating encounter barriers or signs used to the Scenic Area can be found at several roads as "Back Country limit access into sensitive areas; Hole-in-the-Wall and Teutonia Byways" within the East Mojave please respect their message. Peak. Although there are no National Scenic Area. Several Cross-country travel is not allowed designated trails, Kelso Dunes incorporating Interstates 40 or 15 in the Scenic Area. lf you are and the Cinder Cones can be will provide a loop to look at the looking for a place to enjoy cross- easily explored. features of most interest to you. country motor vehicle activities, we Sand dunes, a historic railroad suggest you try one of the off- Photography - Most desert pho- depot, scenic canyons, and short highway vehicle areas available in tographers prefer working in the hiking trails are only some of the the surrounding desert region, such early moming or late aftemoon opportunities awaiting you along as Dumont Dunes,located north of sun when shadows and soft light the byways. Exploring these Back Baker, and Rasor, southwest of enhance the desert landscape. Country Byways will provide you Baker. During mid-day, use a polarizing with an unusual look at the desert filter to add nice contrasts to your environment. Look for signs Hiking - Most of the Scenic Area photos. marking these scenic routes while lends itself well to off-trail hiking. you are exploring the area. 3 Camping - BLM provides two de- REMEMBER: from April to dumped at dump stations, which are veloped campgrounds in the East October, ground fires outside the available in Needles, Barstow, and Mojave for your use. Hole-in-the- campgrounds are not permitted Las Vegas. Wall and Midhills have several without a fire permit. Fire permits campsites; some sites at both areas are available from Hole-in-the- Please respect other users as many are suitab,le for small groups. Both WalIfire station, BLM Rangers, people go camping to experience campgrounds have picnic tables, and Califomia BLM offices. the peace and quiet found in a fire pits, grills, water, and vault desert. Please don't intrude with toilets. Motorhomes more than26 Holding tanks on campers, trailers, excessive noise, and keep all pets feet in length may have difficulty and motorhomes may only be restrained. using Midhills camp- ground. A daily fee of $4 per camping unit is charged. All camp- sites are first come, first served, and no reservations are accepted. Primitive camping in the Scenic Area is available for those wanting a more secluded or backcoun- try experience. Re- member to keep your vehicle alongside roads or trails (within tl 25 fee$ preferably in existing camping sites. 'l Cross-country travel is not allowed. Set up 5ril your camp at least 600 1 ilrlIi feet away from any water sources such as ffi,.W springs or tanks. Wildlife and cattle need these waters for A 72/c:dte4o survival. Do not set up camp in Odrltf"brir4d washes! Flash floods are always possible, and it's the rain falling out of your sight that can be dan- gerous. Hunting & Shooting

When camping at any location in The East Mojave region offers For the safety of visitors and the pro- the Scenic Area, remember that hunting opportunities for game such tection of resources, selected areas camping on public lands is limited as dove, quail, deer, and rabbits. A1- in the Scenic Area are closed to to 14 days in any 28-day period. though hunting dates may vary, deer firearm use, including hunting. You must move at least 25 miles season generally runs for three These areas arc the Piute Creek Area from your previous site to set up weeks starting the second week of of Critical Environmental Concem, camp again. October. Quail season begins the Granite Mountain Research Natural third week of October and lasts Area, Providence Mountain State Campers should pack out all trash, through January. Califomia hunting Recreation Area, half mile zones leaving campsites in better condi- licenses are required. Recreational around BLM's two campgrounds, tion than they found them. Bring shooting practice and and recreation sites such as Camp your own wood as dead-and-down "plinking"-target are popular activities and Rock Spring and Soda Springs. wood in the desert is scarce and are allowed, but must be done safely Please use caution and common provides habitat for wildlife. and follow County, State, and sense whenever you are shooting a Cutting of live wood is not Federal laws and regulations. firearm. allowed.

4 POINTS OF INTEREST

The following points of interest tubes, X-ray fiIms, fluorescent lamps, KelsoiKelso Depot - Kelso was descriptions have been developed sunglasses, and fiber optics. developed in 1905 as a Los to provide you with information Angeles to Salt Lake railroad about historical, scenic, or stop because water was easily ob- natural landmark sites in or tainable for the steam en- near the Scenic Area. We Za/p Tazr4dd af Sdda Sp.,trzAo gines, Later the line was hope this information sold to the Union Pacific provides an insight into the Railroad, which buiit a history of the East Mojave Spanis,h style depot in 1924 as well as suggesting some to provide food and lodging interesting places to see. for the railroad workers. The site at one time also ALONC t-15 contained a roundhouse and other maintenance facili- Soda Springs - The springs ties. The development of served as a source of water the diesel engine eliminated for travelers on the Mojave the need for water stops Trail. It has been an Indian along the route. Although campsite, military outpost, the Depot was closed in wagon station, railroad F *"# 1985, the trees and shrubs siding, the headquarters of a at Kelso provide an excel- radio evangelist, and a lent spot for birding. BLM health resort. Today it is a + FG and the nonprofit Kelso desert education and study Depot Fund are working center. An orientation together to explore ways of center is open, and weekend reopening the Depot for tours are available to the public use. general public from Octo- ber to May. For more in- Kelso Dunes - This unique formation, call BLM's and isolated dune system Barstow Office at (619) rises more than 600 feet 256-3591. The site can be above the desert floor. The reached by taking the dunes were created by Zzyzx Road exit off of I-15, southeast winds blowing southwest of Baker. finely grained residual sand from the Mojave River Clark Mountain is the highest sink, which lies to the northwest. peak in the Scenic Area (7,929 The dunes color is created from ft.), and was formed from a series many golden rose quartzpar- of thrust faults. Mining began ticles. When the dry sand grains ATONG KETBAKER here in the early 1860s and slide down the steep upper continues today. The mountain ROAD slopes, a notable booming sound was named for an early miner, is produced. In some years, the Senator William A. Clark, the Cinder Cones National Natural dunes offer a display ofnice spring "CopperKing" of Montana. The Landmark is probably the best ex- wildflowers. They are a Molycorp Mine at Mountain Pass ample of recent volcanic activity (800 wonderful place to explore on is noted for rare earth deposits. - 1000 years) in the Mojave Deserr. foot. A hike to the top and back The deposit, found in 1950, is the There are more than 30 young takes approximately two hours. The area is closed largest ore body of its type in the volcanic cones clustered together on to vehicles. world, with ore reserves esti- the surface of a series of older lava mated at 40 million tons. Some flows. Aiken's Mine Road provides Amboy Crater - (about 10 miles south the of the minerals produced at this an interesting side trip through the of Scenic Area). This mine are used in TV picture heart of this region. 25O-foot-high crater is one of the best examples in the Mojave

5 Desert of a volcanic cinder cone. The cinder cone is approximatelY 6,000 years old. A foot path leads to the top of the cone, where You can get a good view of the sur- rounding area. The hike to the Crater and back can take 2-3 hours. Late January - March are good times to see the wildflowers.

ALONG CIMA ROAD

Cima Dome - Best seen from a dis- tance, this almost Perfect, rounded landform rises 1500 feet above the surrounding desert. The dome is approximately 75 Ketoo Drazo square miles in size. It is a small batholith (a molten mass of rock that stopped rising wcll below the surface) once covered by volcanic material, uplifted and eroded to its present form. Covering Cima Dome is a large dense forest of Joshua trees. The Sunrise Rock area (approximatelY 6 miles north of Cima) is a good place for a short exploration on foot. A hike to Teutonia Peak and back takes about 2 hours; the trail begins just north of Sunrise Rock.

Cima - By 1920, the town consisted of a boarding house (with cabins made of railroad ties), a store, and a post office. /a4/aa ?rru dew It served as a railroad siding and a commcrcial ccntcr for Tecdoala ?ea6 ow ranchcrs and mincrs. In 7962, the original buildings were Qeota, Du* rcplaccd by the store and post office you see today.

ALONG CEDAR CANYON ROAD December 1866, about the same Rock Spring you may notice a rock- It was once Bert Smith's Rock Spring - Like many time mining activity in the region house. homestead. A World War I gas springs in the desert, Rock was grinding to a halt. The protect victim, he came to the desert only ex- Spring played an important role outpost was developed to provide pecting to live a short time, but lived by providing water, fiist to the travelers but primarily to mail. here until 1954. Indians and later to other travel- escort riders for the U.S. was one ers in the desert and across the Camp Rock Spring of Mojave Trail. The U.S. ArmY the most isolated and comfortless established an outpost here in Army posts that ever existed in the history of the Wesl Near 6 ATONG BLACK permitted, so check fire condi- The Mitchell Cavems are tions or use propane stoves for limestone caves CANYON ESSEX that feature a / cooking. wide variety of formations. The ROAD cavems may be visited only by Providence Mountains State guided tours, which last about an Hole-in-the-Wall (4,500 foot Recreation Area (Mitchetl hour and a half and require a mile elevation) - The volcanic rock Caverns) is open for camping, and a half hike. Tours are formations in the area make this rock climbing, picnicking, scheduled at 1:30 PM weekdays a popular recreation site. Favor- hiking, and cavem tours. The and at 10:00, 1:30, and 3:00 on ite activities in the area include visitor center, located in the weekends and State holidays camping (fee is $4 per camping Providence Mountains at 4,300 from September 16 - June 15. unit), picnicking, and hiking. feet, can be reached via paved While no tours are offered June Rock climbing on the volcanic roads by traveling 17 miles north 16 - September 15, the park is rocks is not recommended due to of I-40 on Essex Road. open for other activities. Groups their crumbly nature. Fall and are requested to spring are the most popukf make reservations seasons for camping, with through the Park winter and summer providing Headquarters at least variable weather conditions two weeks in ad- and temperarures. There are vance. two unmaintained trails The cavems are available at Hole-in-the-Wall. equipped with stairs, One leaves from the picnic railings, and special area and travels west through lighting to facilitate the volcanic rock. This trail guided tours of involves a descent down metal stalactites, stalag- rings, as well as scrimbling mites, cavem coral, around and overmany boul- and flowstone. ders. The other trail is about 7 Fees: Camping is $6 miles long beginning along per vehicle per night. Wild Horse Canyon Road and Tours-adults $3.00 traveling north frrom Hole-in- and children (ages 6- the-Wall to Midhills. As you 17) $1.00. The park wander past cactus gardens has a small supply of and other interesting rock for- water. For more in- mations, you will get a good formation write P.O. look at the diverse desert land- Box 1, Essex, CA scape. Back country camping 92332 or call is available in several spots (619)389-2281. along the trail. During the summer, ground fres are not 7//t4

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HOLE-IN-THEWALL to &.r'r' ?o Baker 65 miles 6 20 miles ili Cima il; Fort Piute 40 miles =o 3( Goffs 40 miles I. C 30 z Kelso miles F Ludlow 70 mile.s zq Midhills Campground 10 mile.s Mitchell Caverns 20 miles Nipton 45 mile,s Rock Spring 15 miles ,-i\:;5;; Valley Wells/I-l5 40 miles ) \'/. KELSO to = Amboy 40 mile,s Baker 35 miles Ludlow 50 miles

IEKM Needles to Hole-in-the-Wall 60 miles Los Angeles to Hole-in-the-Wall 225 miles Ias Vegas to Hole-in-the-Wall 100 miles

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9 ALONG TVANPAH/ LANFAIR ROAD

Nipton started in 1905 as a railroad town and cattle loading station on the Los Angeles & Salt Lake line. Soon the town con- sisted of a hotel, cafe and bar, general store, and collection of small homes. Many of the buildings are still used today. Nipton General Store is also a Desert Information Outpost.

New York Mountains - At more than 7,500 feet, these mountains are primarily com- posed of granite. The erosion process has produced the spec- tacular scenery you see today. furut, ?/a,d 77tt4a Several canyons along the southem edge of the range provide habitat for plants such as oak and white fir not usually associated with the desert. There are a number of good camping and hiking areas along New York Mountain Road.

Castle Peaks - These jagged "andesitic" spires are found in the northem portion of the New York Mountains. The red-hued peaks are of volcanic origin and were formed by general uplifting of the area through faulting, fol- lowed by erosion. A road recom- mended for high-clearance vehicles only provides access near the peaks, as well as oppor- tunities for hiking and horseback riding. ?u* Eaaro Hart - Today the original area is just a ghost town with little remaining. In 1907, gold was OX Cattle Ranch is located on the valley in 1910. By 1917, 130 discovered, and soon the town the old town site of Maruba, there were registered voters privately in the valley and a store. They had two two-story hotels, a which is owned. The and general store, a post office, a ranch was part of the original dry-farmed com beans, but 8-10 inches were barber shop, six saloons, and 400 Rock Springs Land and Cattle the of rainfall not Water rights frame and tent dwellings with Company operation and was the enough. were a constant between the 700 people living there. In 1910, largest operation in the area, ex- conflict ranchers farmers. much of the town was destroyed tending over most of the East and the Water was hauled 10 miles by fire. Mining continued until Mojave during the early 1900s. or brought railroad. 1923 1915, with the town dying about by the In the 1918. Mining continues in the Lanfair Valley is a ranching and railroad spur was abandoned, and the homesteaders left soon after. area today. agriculture community named for E.L. Lanfair, an organizer of the Much of the valley today is still homesteaders who migrated to privately owned. 10 Piute Gorge is found on the November 1867 to May 1868. Camp Ibis - Camp Ibis was one eastem side of Lanfair Valley Fort Piute is the best preserved of of eleven World War II military and is not easily detected until allthe Old Mojave Road outposts Desert Training Center camps in you reach the edge. This highly built to protect early travelers. the Arizona-Califomia desert eroded and colorful formation The area is closed to vehicles and under the command of General was cut by water draining out of firearm use. Opportunities are George S. Patton. The camps Lanfair Valley through the Piute excellent for hiking and bird were created in 1942 to train Canyon fault zone. Today the watching. troops in rough terrain and harsh gorge is nearly 200 feet deep, a climates preparing them for spectacular steep-sided badland. Goffs - Named after a railroad conditions over seas. Camp lbis An unmaintained trail on the official, Goffs became an impor- was home to a number of southwest side allows access to tant railroad siding on the Atlan- Armored Divisions, each the bottom of the gorge. tic and Pacific Railroad in 1883 numbering more than 20,000 with a two-story station and men. A plaque is located on US Piute Creek/Fort Piute - For tumtable for helper engines that 95 at the main entrance to the one-half mile, a narrow ribbon of pulled trains up the long grade camp, and is dedicated to the willows, cottonwoods, and rushes from Needles. The population memory of the trainees. You can thrives along Piute Creek, one of fluctuated with the mining and explore the camp on foot or by the few free flowing streams in railroad eras, and today only a four-wheel drive vehicle. Please the Mojave Desert. An important few homes, a cafe, and a gas leave the remnants of the past in water source for animals, Indi- station can be found here. The place for others to see. ans, and early explorers, the site cafe is also a Desert Information served as a base for up to 18 men Outpost. of the US 9th Infantry from

RESOURCES OF THE EAST MO AVE

The BLM manages the Scenic Area for the benefit of many resources and uses including wildlife, livestock grazing, soils, minerals, wildemess, cultural resources, and recreation. It is BLM's responsibil- ity to resolve user/resource conflicts and carefully balance these uses while protecting the land.

Signs of mining, railroads, and transmission lines from the Colorado River to the Los Angeles ff.''." basin are seen throughout the area. Cattle, ranches, wells, corrals, and fences built to facilitate ranching also dot the landscape. Many of these features add to the unique character of the area, as well as benefiting the local, State, and national econonr!. Plcase rcspect all private property.

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11 DESERT PLANTS

Wildflowers can be found from late February through May, depending ffi on elevation, winter moisture, and spring temperatures. Common spe- Bvt cies of wildflowers can be collected & r.ry for personal use, but limit your co1- lecting to one flower per plant and collect from a large area so as not to deplete the flowers in a given area. Take care not to uproot the plant, % and don't cut all the stems or leaves 1 off. e

Many desert plants and cacti are slow-growing and can take 20 or more years to grow to an average size. Please don't cut, shoot, or dig them up. Much of the vegetation in the Scenic Area is protected by Eeatez ?ai/ Oaztto &,e 6/aa?to either state or federal law. Many plants and plant communities are Area is dependent on the vegeta- considered sensitive due to their tion, and destructive activities FIREWOOD IS SCARCE_ scarcity, limited distribution, or can have far-reaching implica- PLEASE BRING YOUR OWN. separation from areas normally tions. Please treat the plant life associated with that plant commu- of the Scenic Area with care, and nity. The wildlife in the Scenic leave it for others to enjoy.

DESERT WILDLIFE

Although wildlife in the East Gambel's quail, chukar, and You can help the desert tortoise. Mojave is abundant, the night- mouming doves live in canyons If you see a desert tortoise on the time or evasive habits of some and washes where they are able to road, please drive around it very desert creatures make them find water, dense brush for cover, slowly. Do not pick up a tortoise difficult to find. However, you and annual grasses that produce unnecessarily. Please do not take will often see birds, rabbits, and seeds for food. Many wildlife desert tortoises home as pets, or lizards in the area. You may also species are protected by law. retum a captive tortoise to the find desert bighom sheep and Some are rare or declining in num- desert-it's illegal! mule deer inhabiting the rugged bers so that loss of desirable habitat mountains, along with such could threaten them with extinc- Wildlife habitat management on predator species as bobcats and tion. The desert tortoise, found in public lands is the responsibility mountain lions. Animals prefer- many of the valleys, and the of the BLM, while the Califomia ring lower elevations include Mohave chub found in ponds near Department of Fish and Game coyotes, kit foxes, antelope Soda Lake are in this class. manages the wildlife species. ground squirrels, packrats, and Hunting is permitted on public desert tortoises. Lizards and The desert tortoise is suffering lands in accordance with State Fish snakes (including rattlesnakes) from a variety of impacts that have and Game regulations. If your are found at all elevations. led the State of Califomia to interest lies in hunting or trapping, Golden eagles, several species of declare it as a threatened species be sure to obtain the proper license hawks, falcons, and owls use a and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife or permit. variety of habitats and elevations. Service to list it as an endangered This is also true of the common species. raven, which is increasing in numbers and range throughout the East Mojave. 12 CULTURAL RESOURCES

Cultural resources are the physical remains left by previous genera- W*q% tions. The prehistory of the Eastem -' Mojave has been traced back more -*rr-- than 10,000 years, and its written history back to 1775 with the explo- rations of Francisco Garces and Juan Bautista.

The Bureau of Land Management manages ttrousands of cultural sites in the Scenic Area. Many of these sites have been determined to be significant on a regional and na- tional level, with some eligible for inclusion in the National Register of Historic Places. Many of these fragile connections to our past are slowly disappearing and, if these remnants are destroyed, the ability to understand our past will be gone.

When cultural resources are improperly removed, virnrally all of "etzagtqQla their scientific value is lost. Vast By examining how we have re- amounts of knowledge can be sponded or reacted to past environ- gained from archaeological studies. mental changes, we can better un- derstand how the environment has affected mankind. It also provides us with insight into problems You can help: facing us now and in the future. tr Report vandalism. If you In 1979, Congress took an impor- witness vandalism on public tant step to help preserve our lands, report it immediately Nation's cultural heritage by to BLM's Needles passing the Archaeological Resource Area office. Resources Protection Act. Under this law, a person can be convicted tr Leave cultural resources of a felony for defacing, disturbing, undisturbed and encourage removing, or selling artifacts from others to do the same. Federal land, resulting in seizure of equipment, a Our cultural resources are ine- fine of $100,000, and/or a prison placeable. By removing pieces sentence of up to fiveyears. of our heritage you prevent the reconstruction of our past, BLM archaeologists and Rangers leaving nothing to pass on to patrol archaeologically sensitive future generations. During your areas and monitor the condition of visit please enjoy, but don't cultural resources on public lands. 'rN destroy, our Nation's heritage. a"W Local law enforcement agencies also provide assistance. Federal and State culnrral resource laws are ?a4aed ^4cgaU strictly enforced, but all of these efforts are often not enough. Our cultural heritage is still being vandalized.

13 EARLY EXPLORATION OF THE EAST MO

general route used by Lieutenant Exploration of the East Mojave In 1854, the War Department Whipple became known as the by Euro-Americans began in sent Lieutenant A. W. WhiPPle a route Govemment Road (Mojave 1,776 when Friar Francisco on an expedition to locate Road). Garces traveled from New for a proposed railroad to the Mexico to Mission San Gabriel, Pacific Coast. The party traveled During the 1860s, military posts Califomia. Around 1826, as fur from the Colorado River near were erected along the Govem- became harder to find in northem Needles to Cajon Pass by waY of ment Road to protect the mail states, trappers began exploring Piute Spring, Rock SPring, Marl route from troublesome Indian the Southwest. The great traP- Spring, Kelso Wash, and the attacks. Unfortunately, the pers who explored the region Moj ave River. Exploration attempt to carry mail bY this included Jedediah Strong Smith, continued with Edward F. Beale route was not even marginally William Wolfskill, George crossing the region in 1857 with successful. ln 1868, themail Yount, Kit Carson, Ewing Young his famous Camel Caravan from route was moved to the southem and Peter Ogdan. Camp Verde, Texas, to Fort Tejon, Califomia,looking for a LaPaz route, leading to the suitable route for wagons. The abandonment of these outposts.

MINING HISTORY

Against the backdrop of rugged Because supplies and travel costs During the depression, with gold desert mountains and severe were expensive, only the richest prices up, costs low, and men not conditions, few remnants of old ore deposits were develoPed. having much else to do, gold rnining structures exist today. Other deposits were discovered deposits everywhere were reexam- The history of a mine and its but were of little interest in a ined. World War II brought a new mining district is often all that region supplied onty by freight demand for minerals, but produc- remains. Some of the East wagon. Their development did tion did not reach the peak it had Mojave mining districts included not begin until the railroad arrived, attained 25 years earlier. Today, Rock Springs, Trojan, Clark which brought lower freight rates new technologies for exploration Mountain, Vanderbilt - New and made supplies more readilY and development have resulted in York, Exchequer, Arrowhead, available. Mining reached its peak fewer, but more productive mines. Ivanpah, Old Dad, Hart, and between 1900 and the end of Mescal. Minerals mined from World War (1918). these districts included gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, zinc, t Wi?!a rare earths, tin, and tungsten.

Early prospectors began explor- W"" rYU ing this region around 1870. Mines were severely isolated, q Wffi. w:.: and supplies came from San "ix Francisco by way of San Bemar- dino and then by freight wagon over the Govemment Road. Bumos then carried supplies where wagons could not go. The outgoing ore had even a longer joumey, as most of it was shipped to Wales for smelting. oa Freight rates were hundreds of dollars per ton. O/zrzat<*o"71"r4rr4" 14 RAILROADS

The main line of the Santa Fe (then the Southem Pacific) railroad was completed to Needles in 1883 where it joined with the Atlantic and pacific line, having no immediate effect on life in ttre East Mojave. In 1893, a branch line was completed from Coffs through Lanfair Valley to Bamwell (Manvel). It served Sagamore Mine and helped to stimulate other mining activity. ln 1907, a branch of the railroad was completed from Manvel to Searctrlight, Nevada. Eventually the Manvel line was extended through the New york Mountains into Ivanpah Valley. With the construction of the Union Pacific line through Ke1so, Cima, and Ivanpah in 1905, railroad transportation was available to the central part of the East Mojave. Kd4D De,pal

RANCHING AND HOMESTEADING

Ranchers shared the land with in 1894 with the establishment of water developed between the miners and the railroad with no the Rock Springs Land and Cattle homesteaders and cattlemen. By conflict, grazing thousands of Company. In 1910, homesteading l925,because of drought and cattle over more than a million and dry farming were attempted in other poor conditions, most acres of land. Ranching boomed Lanfair Valley, but conflicts over homesteaders had left the area.

MITITARY ACTIVITY VOLUNTEER In1942, General George S. Patton trained World War II troops on the desert for the North OPPORTUNITIES African campaign. The Califor- ,fiwJr,h nia-Arizona Maneuver Area (a You can help make your Scenic temporary training area) was Area a better place! EffiIffiIh; 1 '-i.. We need established to encompass the you to help us manage the East southeastem portions of the East ,Tl Mojave. Volunteers can assist in Mojave. Little remains from this &t,, a variety of projects including period, time although rock-lined E wildlife monitoring, trail work, walkways, insignias, outdoor clean-ups, providing public chapels, and tracks left by ||Wetll',ieffi information, or giving nature numerous tanks can still be found walks. For more information, at some of the camps. Much of contact BLM's Needles Resource the area has grown over and the Area. outline of the camps and tank ,il'':: tracks are noticeable only from the air.

15 ?a/& ?Ttaazta*t

IN AN EMERGENCY

ForEmergencies: DIAL 911

Interagency Communications Center San Bemardino (24 hour service for fire or BLM's Law Enforcement)

(714) 383-s6s1

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Bureau of Land Management Rangers paftol the East Mojave to help you and other visitors have a safe and enjoyable trip. ifangers can also provide you with addi- tionat information and maps, or you can stop by one of ffik several privately owned businesses that have been set up as W Desert Information OutPosts.

I nterpretive wal ks/tal ks .&t Groups wittr tet or more people can and are encouraged to request InterpretiveA.Iaturalist programs to enhance your viiit to the East Mojave. Please contact the Needles Resource Area Office for details two or more weeks in advance. BLM n More detailed maps of the area are available from : offices and some besert Information Outposts. Ask for the Providence Mountain and New York Mo[ntain Desert Access Guides. U S Geological survey topographic maps '?/tattoo drd Deaal Razaa of the anea are also available in all BLM offices'

A variety of maps, publications, and information can be obtained from:

California Desert Information Center 831 Barstow Road Barstow, CL923ll (619) 2s6-8617 (desert books available)

Needles Resource Area California Desert District P.O. Box 888 1695 Spruce Street 101 W. Spikes Road Riverside, CA925W Needles, CA92363 QM) n6-63e4 (619)326-38e6

Br-M CA Gl 90 m5 $00