CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12.
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان.
Kanga: It Is More Than What Meets the Eye — a Medium of Communication*
Reflection from East Africa Kanga: It is More Than What Meets the Eye — A Medium of Communication* Mahfoudha Alley Hamid Among the coastal Waswahili of East Africa, there is a tradition that when a man gets married for the first time, he sends his bride a gift of "Sanduku" meaning a suitcase, which comprises the bride's attire ranging from outer garments to delicate lingerie. It also includes various household items , and the well to do include even gold ornaments and modern electrical gadgets. Nevertheless, the success of the "Sanduku" does not depend on either the number of dresses or the golden things it includes. Its success depends on the number of pairs of kangas it has. The invitees take the trouble of counting the pairs when the items are announced one after the other, one can tell you at ago how many pairs have been included. Kanga, a simple piece of cotton cloth measuring about one and three quarters metres, by one and a quarter metre, is so strong and powerful, with such magnetic pull which has almost mesmerised the womenfolk of the Eastern coast of Africa. Its long tentacles have now spread to the hinterland of East Africa and other parts of the world like wildfire. Kanga which embodies art, beauty, culture, and customs of coastal women, is almost mythical. Whenever the word kanga is mentioned, we straight away think of it as a normal part of a woman's attire and no more. B ut there is more to it than meets the eye. To the S wahili women of the East African Coast, the kanga is an indispensable part of our wardrobe.
Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton: Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement Author(S): C
Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton: Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement Author(s): C. Shambu Prasad Source: Economic and Political Weekly, Vol. 34, No. 5 (Jan. 30 - Feb. 5, 1999), pp. PE12-PE21 Published by: Economic and Political Weekly Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/4407604 . Accessed: 13/06/2014 06:16 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact support@jstor.org. Economic and Political Weekly is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Economic and Political Weekly. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 130.92.9.57 on Fri, 13 Jun 2014 06:16:17 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement C Shambu Prasad The suicide deaths of farmers is a failure of agricultural science and the historical nature of the crisis needs to be appreciated. This paper seeks to retrace the route by which the present connections between Indian cotton and the mechanised textile industry were first established, a direction that has led to the present crisis on the fields of the cotton jflrmers.
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay Your
MAKE YOUR OWN SCRUBBIE Create Your Netting Yarn Step 1 Lay your yard of netting (When I was doing craft sales I bought 5 yard lengths.) out on the floor or table (I use my bed or couch and pin it down.). Fold netting to make several layers into a long rectangle, as it came off the bolt. It’s still folded. Try to line up the folded edge as straight as you can. (I put a few pins in to hold the folded piece together.) Step 2 Cut strips 3 to 4 inches in width down the length of the folded rectangle, cutting perpendicular to the end of the fabric to get the longest strips. Cut from the fold out to the opposite edge. Remember it’s folded so the width of the first strip will be double when opened. Therefore cut the first strip narrower(about 1½ inches) . Your first strip (and the last one or two) will be a little irregular when you begin to use it. Your creativity will dictate how to adjust. We are not concerned about perfection here. If you are a perfectionist, buy a machine made scrubbie. If you want a two colored scrubbie cut 1½ to 2 inch strips from both colors and use both strands like one strip. (See the red and white one shown in step 5.) Step 3 Tie the ends of the strips together with a simple knot to form one continuous strip. Wind the strips into a ball if you wish. (I cut the strips as I use them.) Crochet a Simple Scrubbie Step 1 Tie the free end of the strip of nylon net into a slip knot and place the loop over a medium-sized crochet hook, size J or K, and chain four.
Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns.
Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015" (2015). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 71. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/71 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 27. NUMBER 2. FALL, 2015 Cover Image: Collaborative work by Pat Hickman and David Bacharach, Luminaria, 2015, steel, animal membrane, 17” x 23” x 21”, photo by George Potanovic, Jr. page 27 Fall 2015 1 Newsletter Team BOARD OF DIRECTORS Roxane Shaughnessy Editor-in-Chief: Wendy Weiss (TSA Board Member/Director of External Relations) President Designer and Editor: Tali Weinberg (Executive Director) roxane.shaughnessy@textilesociety.org Member News Editor: Ellyane Hutchinson (Website Coordinator) International Report: Dominique Cardon (International Advisor to the Board) Vita Plume Vice President/President Elect Editorial Assistance: Roxane Shaughnessy (TSA President) and Vita Plume (Vice President) vitaplume@gmail.com Elena Phipps Our Mission Past President elena@textilesociety.org The Textile Society of America is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of textile knowledge from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, Maleyne Syracuse political, social, and technical perspectives.
Kanga: It Is More Than What Meets the Eye—A Medium of Communication
The African e-Journals Project has digitized full text of articles of eleven social science and humanities journals. This item is from the digital archive maintained by Michigan State University Library. Find more at: http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/africanjournals/ Available through a partnership with Scroll down to read the article. Reflection from East Africa Kanga: It is More Than What Meets the Eye — A Medium of Communication* Mahfoudha Alley Hamid Among the coastal Waswahili of East Africa, there is a tradition that when a man gets married for the first time, he sends his bride a gift of "Sanduku" meaning a suitcase, which comprises the bride's attire ranging from outer garments to delicate lingerie. It also includes various household items , and the well to do include even gold ornaments and modern electrical gadgets. Nevertheless, the success of the "Sanduku" does not depend on either the number of dresses or the golden things it includes. Its success depends on the number of pairs of kangas it has. The invitees take the trouble of counting the pairs when the items are announced one after the other, one can tell you at ago how many pairs have been included. Kanga, a simple piece of cotton cloth measuring about one and three quarters metres, by one and a quarter metre, is so strong and powerful, with such magnetic pull which has almost mesmerised the womenfolk of the Eastern coast of Africa. Its long tentacles have now spread to the hinterland of East Africa and other parts of the world like wildfire.
Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 3434––––4242 European (4(4(4-(4 ---1212 US/6US/6----1414 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide - Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink - Embroidery stabilizer for the facing - Spray adhesive - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Cording foot Fabric rerecommendationcommendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowanceallowancess ––– When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffetataffeta,,,, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing.
Kangas: the Voice of Zanzibari Women? Its Present Importance Among Young Women in Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania
9532-06_KHILA_2/2006_01 15-10-2007 15:39 Pagina 1 KHIL{A 2 (2006), pp. 1-22. doi: 10.2143/KH.2.0.2021283 Kangas: the voice of Zanzibari Women? Its present importance among young women in Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania Marloes VAN DER BIJL1 Department of African Studies, Leiden University Kangas are found along the East African coast as well as in parts of the eastern Arabian Peninsula. Many are made in East Africa, but a significant number are made in India, specifically for this mar- ket. The kanga provides a fascinating example of how a textile can reflect historical, economic and social changes throughout a region. To date, some scholars have looked at the proverbs on the kangas and written about their lit- erary aspects, while others have taken a more his- torical approach.6 Few, however, have examined the social implication of the kanga. The focus of this article is the discourses that the kanga itself gener- ates. I have not entered into a detailed debate about the origin of the kanga, rather I have looked at how the cloth itself serves as a point of departure in con- Fig. 1: Zanzibari women dressed in kangas, at a festival. temporary Zanzibar society.7 In particular, I have Photograph by the author. focussed on how the younger generation of women perceive the kanga. During my fieldwork on Throughout the Indian Ocean people have used Zanzibar I discussed the role of the kanga during cloth and clothing to show their social and eco- interviews with approximately thirty women, the nomic status.
6 Globalization, Youth and Khadi Upinder Kaur* and Hitender Singh Rathore** Khadi is hand woven, hand spun fabric made with natural fibers. Unique features like zero carbon footprint make Khadi, India’s truly indigenous textile. There is a strong demand for fashion apparels in the Indian market.The buying behaviour of Indian apparel sector is affected by the existence of young population, globalization, higher buying power, and self-image. This paper investigates the perception of the brand image of Khadi and preference of Khadi textiles/apparel among the youth in Delhi between the age group 20-35 years. Purposive sampling was conducted through structured questionnaire and observation of 168 young consumers at malls and shopping centers. The Major Statistical tool used for analysis was ANOVA.This study finds the inclination of the youth is more towards International and other domestic fashion brands in comparison to the brand Khadi. Based on the findings, recommendations are suggested to Khadi textile industry so that it could become youth-centric. [Keywords : Globalization, Youth, Khadi, Brand awareness, Brand perception, Self-image]. 1. Introduction In Mahatma Gandhi’s own words Khadi is defined as “Hand-woven cloth made of hand-spun yarn is of course khadi, however fine it may be. It may be made of cotton, silk or even of wool. One should wear whichever of these one happens to find convenient. The khadi from Andhra is very fine. In Assam, one can get some khadi made of silk. Woollen khadi is made in Kathiawar. In other words, the only criterion of khadi is its being hand-spun and hand-woven” (Gandhi, CWMG, Vol 28, 1925).
Sharing the Magic of Indian Handspun, Handloom Cotton
Fumie Kobayashi Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1973, Kobayashi developed an interest in cloth as a child through the influence of her grandparents, who worked in textiles. After graduating from Sophia University in Tokyo, he history of handspun, Today, the textile industry is she started her career in media and later switched to consulting. Now she is president of CALICO LLC, handloom cotton in India one of India’s major industries, which serves as a sales agency for Indian handspun, handloom cotton and its products. T goes back very far. It is said that employing around 35 million people. people have been making such cloth The handloom industry, which is in the Indus Valley Civilization since part of it, accounts for 95 percent around 2000 BC. Fumie Kobayashi, of the entire world’s handloom president of CALICO LLC, is fascinated production, with an estimated 4.3 by the texture and beauty of Indian million or so handloom weavers in traditional handspun, handloom India. Surrounding a single artisan cotton. While working in the Delhi weaver are many men and women office of a consulting company, cooperating in various jobs, such she started dreaming of “further as spinning yarn, preparing warps Above: CALICO has made its own original brass printing plate and uses Ajrakh spreading the skills and promoting and wefts and dyeing, washing and block-print techniques to replicate the patterns of hand-printed sarasa cloth with a contemporary flair. an appreciation of Indian handspun, selling the cloth. “India’s father of Right: A beautiful embroidered and appliqué Rabari tote bag.