Erider™ Curriculum

Home , Motorcycle lane, Scooter (motorcycle)

TEAM OREGON eRider™ Online Classroom Curriculum Text

October 3, 2014

Introduction

The objective of the eRider™ online classroom is to prepare new and returning motorcyclists to ride safely on the street. The course is designed to meet Oregon mandatory training requirements and national standards. Upon successful completion of classroom and range, riders will have the basic mental and physical skills necessary to:

● Select appropriate riding gear ● Identify common hazards and interpret clues in the riding environment ● Use lane positioning to see and be seen, avoid hazards and maximize space ● Identify conditions and impairments that affect rider safety and performance ● Operate motorcycle or scooter controls to safely manage position, speed and path The eRider™ online classroom uses multiple learning modules and activities to introduce and reinforce key motorcycle safety concepts. Review questions and quizzes are embedded in each chapter to help students evaluate their learning. Each chapter’s final activity asks students to apply key concepts and strategies to real-world situations.

Learning Objectives

Chapter 1 – Riding Gear. Riders will learn the risks associated with operating a motorcycle and the importance, function and characteristics of proper protective gear.

Chapter 2 – Controls. Riders will learn the location and operation of motorcycle or scooter controls, how to get underway, shift and stop. These skills are also practiced during the riding phase of the course.

Chapter 3 – Taking Control. Riders will learn strategic lane positioning to see and be seen and the process of scanning to identify hazards, clues and escape routes. Riders will also learn strategies to avoid hazards and correct responses for dealing with hazards.

Chapter 4 – Riding Skills. Riders will learn the proper techniques for cornering, braking and swerving. These skills are also practiced during the riding phase of the course.

Chapter 5 – Riding in the Real World. Riders will learn techniques for passing and adjusting to surface hazards and conditions of reduced traction and visibility. Riders will also learn proper techniques and cautions for riding in groups, carrying passengers and cargo and riding long distances.

Chapter 6 – Ready to Ride. Riders will learn the requirements to ride legally in Oregon, what it means to be ready to ride and the factors that adversely affect rider performance. Riders will also learn the effects of impairments such as distraction, emotion, fatigue, alcohol and other drugs on riding.

Chapter 1 Riding Gear

1-1 | Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn the risks associated with operating a motorcycle and the importance, function and characteristics of proper protective gear.

1-2 | Preventing Injuries | Priority: 3

Motorcycle riders face many risks, from other road users, roadway surfaces conditions, even the weather. Riding safely means recognizing and managing these risks. One simple way to reduce the risk of riding is to wear good quality protective gear. Whether you are riding a 50cc scooter, a full-dress touring bike or anything in between, what you are wearing is all that stands between you and the pavement in a crash.

Riding a smaller bike or a scooter doesn't make the asphalt any softer or other traffic any less threatening. Choose good quality riding gear – no matter what you ride. Remember, riding gear will not prevent all injuries. It can prevent some injuries though, and reduce the severity of any injuries that might occur.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: The point was that good riding gear should prevent all injuries. True or False? A: You are correct – the statement is false. An accurate statement is that good riding gear prevents some injuries – not all – and can reduce the severity of other injuries that may occur in a crash. [1.2.2] To ride safely you must first recognize and accept the risk of riding, and take steps to manage that risk. Wearing good riding gear is one way to demonstrate your commitment to reducing the risk of riding.

1-3 | Protection from the Elements | Priority 3

[1.3] [6.3.1] [6.3.6] [1.2.1.1] Good riding gear will help protect you from the elements like heat, cold, bugs, wind, rain, hail and flying debris. That kind of protection will make your ride more comfortable. And when you are physically comfortable, you can pay more attention to riding. And that reduces the likelihood of crashes.

[INTERACTIVE]

[1.3] [6.3.1] [6.3.6] Q: The point was that riding gear protects you from the elements. This makes you physically more comfortable and better able to pay attention to your riding. True or false?

A: You are correct – the statement is true. Riding gear that protects you from the elements makes you physically comfortable and more attentive when you ride.

1-4 | Being Conspicuous | Priority 3

[1.3] [1.3.7] [1.3.8] [3.3.2] Conspicuity means being visible to others. Bright colors and retro- reflective material on your clothing, helmet, and motorcycle help you to be seen. After car- motorcycle crashes, car drivers often say “I didn’t see the motorcycle.” Highly visible riding gear will help avoid these crashes.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [1.3] [1.3.7] [1.3.8] [3.1.6] The point was that wearing bright colors makes you conspicuous, which means you will be seen more easily by other drivers. True or false? A: You are correct – the statement is true. Failing to be visible in traffic is a common cause of multi-vehicle motorcycle crashes.

1-5 | Selecting Riding Gear | Priority 1

In selecting riding gear to meet your needs, the most important measure is the effectiveness of the riding gear to protect your head and face – and protect your body, including your feet and hands. In these next sets of screens, we will introduce riding gear items for your head and riding gear items for your body. The knowledge you gain will help you make good selections for riding gear so that your head and body are as well-protected as possible every time you get on your motorcycle.

1-6 | Selecting a Helmet | Priority 3

Let’s begin by looking at how you protect your head.

[1.3.1] Wearing a US Department of Transportation or DOT-compliant helmet is the best way to protect your head and your brain from injury. Many styles of helmets are DOT-compliant: Full- face helmets that cover the head, face, eyes and chin; modular helmets that feature a hinged chin bar; open-face or three-quarter helmets (that cover the head, but not the face or chin); and half-shell helmets (which cover only the top half of the head). Remember that the more of your head and face that is covered, the more protection you have from injury and the elements.

DOT-compliant helmets do NOT restrict your peripheral vision. Your head is the highest point on the motorcycle when you are riding. [1.3.1] [3.3.2] Choose a brightly colored helmet and add retro-reflective stickers, increasing your visibility. Motorcycle helmets protect your head by

©2014 TEAM OREGON Motorcycle Safety Program. Do not distribute or reproduce without permission. absorbing impacts. The hard plastic outer shell, impact-absorbing liner, comfort padding, and retention or chin strap work together to provide this protection.

Some helmets have features like adjustable air vents, a flip-up chin bar or a retractable sun visor. Some helmets also have comfort padding that is adjustable or removable. Whatever features you choose for your helmet, it should fit snugly on your head (not loose; not tight). Find the best fit by trying on different brands and styles to find the one that works for you.

If your helmet is damaged in a crash or from being dropped, it is less able to protect you. Never buy a used helmet, since you don’t know how much damage it has already taken. Inspect your helmet periodically for visible damage (chips, cracks or dents in the liner). Always replace a damaged helmet – it is designed to absorb only one crash impact.

Finally, avoid ‘novelty’ helmets. These helmets are not DOT-compliant and will not provide protection from an impact to your head. These ‘novelty’ or ‘fake’ helmets are often sold with a DOT sticker that you have to apply yourself. DOT-compliant helmets have a DOT sticker already in place, labeling on the inside of the helmet and about one inch of impact-absorbing liner between the outer shell and the comfort padding.

Take these next few minutes to examine the helmet and learn what makes it safe. Click the buttons underneath the image to see it from different perspectives and learn more about important features.

[INTERACTIVE] [1.3.1]

Hard plastic/fiberglass composition outer shell – Absorbs and disperses crash impact energy

Approximately 1” white EPS (expanded polystyrene) protective layer – Absorbs crash impact energy; helps insulate from heat and cold

Soft inner liner and comfort padding – Provides a snug fit

Retention straps and D rings or clip – Holds helmet securely to your head when fastened

Full-faced helmet – Protects your entire head, face and jaw from crash impacts

Modular helmet – Featuring a flip-up chin bar, it provides as much protection as a full-faced helmet

Three-quarter helmet – Provides adequate head coverage but does not protect your face or jaw from crash impacts

Half-helmet – Protects only the top of your head, leaving your ears, face and jaw exposed

DOT decal or imprint on the outside – Without an original label, it may not be DOT-compliant

DOT label on the inside – Without an original label, it may not be DOT-compliant

[3.3.2] Bright colors – Choose white, yellow, orange or another bright color to help others see you

Adjustable air vents – Help keep you cool in warm weather and prevent fogging in cool weather

Detachable face shield – Protects your eyes and face from rain, wind, flying debris and bugs; removable for easy cleaning

Retractable sun visor – Protects you from eye strain and fatigue on bright, sunny days

1-7 | Selecting Eye Protection | Priority 2

[1.3.2] Full-face helmets have a face shield to protect your eyes. Goggles are also available. When choosing eye protection, look for shatter-resistant material that is secured so it doesn’t fly off in the wind. Make sure that it blocks wind from the front, sides, top and bottom and that it doesn't block your peripheral vision.

Always wear clear (un-tinted) eye protection when riding at night or in low-light conditions. Scratched face shields, goggles or glasses are difficult to see through, especially at night, so replace them when they get scratched. Clean your eye protection with a soft cloth, a mild soap, and lots of water. Avoid using paper towels; they will cause scratches.

Take these next few minutes to examine the eye and face protection and learn what makes it safe. Click the buttons underneath the image to see it from different perspectives and learn about important characteristics.

[INTERACTIVE]

Clean and unscratched Clear or tinted lens Good coverage from all sides Doesn’t block peripheral vision When trying on eye protection, take your helmet with you

1-8 | Selecting Ear Protection | Priority 1

[1.3.3] Even with a quality helmet, wind roar can cause fatigue and hearing loss. Earplugs can significantly reduce the wind noise. This helps reduce fatigue, hearing loss and makes it easier

for you to hear the traffic around you. Follow the package instructions to make sure they are inserted correctly. Earplugs are very inexpensive – try a pair for yourself and see what a difference they make.

Now take a moment to examine the ear plugs for yourself and be reminded of why they are helpful. Click the buttons underneath the image to see it from different perspectives and learn about important characteristics.

[INTERACTIVE]

There are different varieties of earplugs; try a few to find those most effective and/or comfortable. Earplugs do not “block” noise; they reduce all sounds by the same level. Replace earplugs frequently.

1-9 | Check Your Knowledge | Priority 1

Okay. You’ve had some time to hear about good headgear and observe for yourself the characteristics that make helmets, eye and face protection and ear protection good. Let’s check your knowledge with a few questions.

[QUIZ]

Q1: DOT-compliant helmets can be identified: A: By a DOT sticker on the back and a label imprinted inside the helmet.

Q2: One reason car drivers will see a brightly colored helmet more easily is because: A: Your head is the highest point on the motorcycle when you are riding.

Q3: Your helmet should fit: A: Snugly on your head.

Q4: Eye protection when riding a motorcycle is important: A: At all times.

Q5: Earplugs can significantly reduce wind noise which: A: Helps reduce fatigue, hearing loss and makes it easier for you to hear the traffic around you.

1-10 | Jackets and Gloves | Priority 2

[1.3] Now, let’s talk about other riding gear that you need to have. In making decisions about

your riding gear, keep in mind these objectives: Protection, visibility and comfort.

You will want to wear a riding jacket made of sturdy material such as leather, Cordura nylon or Kevlar to name a few. Such material will protect your skin in the unfortunate event that you hit the pavement in a crash. Stay away from denim, which provides very little protection in a crash. Many motorcycle jackets include armor built in to protect the elbows, shoulders and back.

[3.3.2] A jacket with bright colors and retro-reflective material will improve your visibility to other drivers. If you have a black jacket, wear a reflective vest over it. You want drivers to see you, so do your part to be visible.

In addition to protecting you against pavement, your jacket protects you from wind, weather and flying debris. Adjustable vents, collars and cuffs allow you to control the amount of airflow in hot weather. Many jackets have removable liners so you can adapt to changing weather conditions.

[6.3.1] [6.3.6] Protecting yourself from the elements makes you more comfortable, and a comfortable rider is better able to concentrate on the ride. Make sure that the jacket you buy will fit you properly when you are seated on your motorcycle. Many jackets have the sleeves cut longer and are lower in back to improve the fit when you lean forward to reach the handlebars.

[1.3.5] Motorcycle gloves protect your hands and fingers from abrasion in the event of a fall. They also give you better grip on the controls. There are gloves for hot weather, cold weather and gloves with or without gauntlets – the part of the glove that goes up and over your wrist. Look for gloves made specifically for motorcycling. Motorcycle gloves are made so the fingers naturally curve in (making it easier to hold onto the handgrips) and with the seams on the outside to keep your fingers comfortable. They should also have retro-reflective accents.

The photos on your screen show a motorcycle jacket and gloves. On the left side of the screen, you see descriptions of important characteristics of those items. Use your mouse to drag the description to their correct spot on the jacket or the gloves.

[INTERACTIVE]

Jackets Sturdy, abrasion-resistant material Bright colors and retro reflective fabric or accents Back cut longer to accommodate riding position Body armor in shoulders and spine Secure closure at neck and wrists Zipper flap to restrict wind

Gloves Gauntlet to go over jacket sleeve Curved fingers to improve grip

Outside seams Reinforced at palm Secure closure at wrist

1-11 | Pants and Boots | Priority 1

[1.3.6] Now, let’s talk about riding pants and boots.

You may choose a riding suit that is essentially a jacket and pants, all in one. Otherwise, as with your riding jacket, look for pants made from sturdy material. Some riders wear chaps – as cowboys do when riding horses. While chaps may provide some leg protection; they leave your backside unprotected. Denim jeans provide very little protection.

Riding pants provide protection against the same elements as your jacket, but also protect you from hot and moving parts of the motorcycle such as the chain, belt and exhaust pipes. Make sure your riding pants are big enough to fit you in the riding position seated on a bike.

[3.3.2] Look for retro-reflective material for visibility. Look for air vents, adjustable waist and cuffs, and leg zippers for easy on and off. You should also look for body armor at the hips and knees.

[1.3.4] Protect your feet and ankles with a good pair of riding boots. Look for rubber soles and a low heel for good grip on the footpegs and the ground. Your boots should have reinforced toes, heels, ankles and shins.

Make sure the boots will resist wind and rain and are sturdy enough to protect you from abrasion and hot or sharp parts of the motorcycle. They should be high enough to protect your ankles and give you extra support when you put your feet down at a stop. Laces should be secured so they don’t come loose.

As in the previous exercise, look at the images of riding pants and boots. On the left side of the screen, review the descriptions of important characteristics of those items. Use your mouse to drag the description to their correct spot on the riding pants and boots.

[INTERACTIVE]

Pants Sturdy, abrasion-resistant material (leather, Cordura nylon, Kevlar) Sufficient length to cover boots in seated position Retro reflective accents Body armor or padding at the hips and knees Zipper for zipping to jacket

Boots Thick rubber sole Low or no heel Reinforced toes, heels, ankles, and shins Over the ankle support Stiff, heavy-duty leather, plastic or steel armor in toes, shins, and ankles

1-12 | Check Your Knowledge | Priority 1

Okay. You’ve had some time to hear about jackets, gloves, pants and boots and observe for yourself the characteristics that make these riding gear items good. Let’s check your knowledge with a few questions.

[QUIZ]

Q1: Denim clothing: A: Provides very little abrasion resistance in a crash.

Q2: If you choose a black riding jacket, you can improve your visibility: A: By wearing a reflective vest over the jacket.

Q3: Jackets designed for riding motorcycles may include: A: Armor, primarily for the elbows, shoulders and back.

Q4: Riding boots serve the primary purpose of: A: Protecting your feet and ankles.

Q5: While chaps may provide leg protection, they are not as safe because: A: They leave your backside unprotected.

1-13 | Conspicuity | Priority 1

[3.1.6] [1.3.7] [3.3.2] There are two more aspects of riding gear to address before you have the opportunity to ‘gear up’ for a ride: Conspicuity and special weather gear. First, let’s consider the critical element of conspicuity. Conspicuity means being visible and is defined as the ability to draw attention to yourself – even when others are not actively looking for you.

[3.1.7] Many car-motorcycle crashes are at least partially caused by car drivers not seeing riders. These crashes are tragic and yes, we would like car drivers to be more aware of motorcycles. As a rider, you can’t control what car drivers do and you are the one who is most

vulnerable. Take action to help drivers see you. Wear highly visible riding gear to help to reduce your risk.

The choice of what to wear is up to you – choose wisely.

To show the importance of conspicuity, let’s see how easy it is to spot the motorcycle rider in this next activity.

1-14 | Conspicuity Activity | Priority 1

[3.1.6] [1.3.7] [3.3.2] [4.7.1] [4.9.1] In these next few scenes, you are driving a car as you ordinarily might. Your job is to spot the motorcycle rider. When you do, click on the motorcycle rider immediately. Observe why it might be easier or more difficult to spot the motorcycle. Click ’play’ to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: Rider with inconspicuous riding gear in poor-visibility conditions.

Scene 2: Rider with conspicuous riding gear in poor-visibility conditions.

Scene 3: Rider with inconspicuous riding gear in urban traffic.

Scene 4: Rider with conspicuous riding gear in urban traffic.

Scene 5: Rider with inconspicuous riding gear hidden by roadside feature.

Scene 6: Rider with conspicuous riding gear in heavy urban traffic.

You did a nice job recognizing the conspicuous rider. As you think about this exercise, imagine that the person riding the motorcycle in any of the photographs is YOU. How important is the extra split-second or two a driver has because you were wearing conspicuous gear? You decide.

1-15 | Gear for the Weather | Priority 1

[1.3.8] [1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.5] Tom: Hi Dusti.

Dusti: Hi Tom. Looks like a pretty typical Oregon day – rain! Are you ready to ride?

Tom: Not exactly. Turns out my gear is not waterproof. I can tell you it was not a comfortable

ride.

Dusti: Ouch. Being comfortable and not getting distracted by the weather is critical to safe riding. If you are soaking wet or freezing cold, you are much more likely to miss something important on the road and you are more likely to have a crash.

Tom: [1.2.1.3] Yeah, I was distracted; I hadn't thought about that before. What kind of gear do you wear?

Dusti: [3.3.2] [4.7.1] [4.9.1] I bought a waterproof riding jacket and pants. Or you could get a rain suit. A one-piece rain suit is less likely to leak, but can be more difficult to get in and out of. A two-piece suit is easier to put on and take off, but may let water in where the pants and jacket meet. Remember, rain gear made for motorcycling stands up to highway speeds without shredding in the wind. And keep visibility in mind: Don’t cover your bright, reflective jacket and pants with a dark-colored rain suit. Make sure your rain gear is highly visible.

Tom: What do you do in hot or cold weather?

[6.3.1] [6.3.6] [1.2.1.3] Dusti: When your body gets too hot or too cold, it can impair your judgment. On cold days I wear heated gear like this electric vest, or a warm fleece liner and winter gloves. On hot days I wear cooling gear that has lots of vents for airflow. Remember to dress in layers, Tom, so you can easily adapt to changing weather conditions. It is Oregon!

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Why it is important to be prepared for extreme temperatures? A: [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] A hot or cold rider loses the ability to focus on the road. You are correct. Riders need to be able to focus on the road at all times. Riding in extreme temperatures can be distracting if the rider is not prepared with the right gear. Distractions lead to crashes.

Q2: Why is it important to have good rain gear? A: [4.9.1] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] Being dry and comfortable helps keep you from being distracted. You are correct. Riders need to stay dry and comfortable to keep them from being distracted. Distractions lead to crashes.

1-16 | Gear Problem Identification | Priority 1

Now, let’s find out what you need to know about some other items you need to have. In these next few screens, you will see a picture of a rider who thinks they are geared up and ready to ride. Use the controls to review the headgear and the body gear the rider is wearing. Then identify problems that the rider needs to correct, in terms of protective gear, before going out.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [1.3] [3.3.2] Dark Helmet A: Good, you spotted a problem. Your head is the highest point on the motorcycle when you are riding, so use your helmet to increase your visibility. Choose a brightly colored helmet and add retro-reflective stickers to help you be seen.

Q2: [1.3.5] Open-fingered gloves A: Good, you spotted a problem. The purpose of motorcycle gloves is to protect the rider’s hands and fingers from abrasion in the event of a fall. If your fingers are only partially covered, then they are not protected and your fingers may be the first part of your body to hit the pavement in case of an accident.

Q3: [1.3.6] Denim pants A: Good, you spotted a problem. Denim pants may be comfortable for walking around or even sitting on a motorcycle, but they provide very little abrasion resistance in a motorcycle accident if the rider is dragged on pavement.

Q4: [1.3.4] Boots lack adequate protection A: Good, you spotted a problem. While trail shoes offer some protection while riding a motorcycle, riders should protect feet and ankles with a sturdy pair of weather resistant riding boots that have reinforced toes, heels, ankles and shins. They should be high enough to protect your ankle bone and give you extra support when you put your foot down at a stop.

Q5: [1.3.1] Helmet lacks adequate protection A: Good, you spotted a problem. A full-face helmet protects your entire head. Remember that the more of your head and face that is covered, the more protection you have from injury and the elements. This may be a novelty helmet and that would be a problem, too. Novelty helmets are not sold at motorcycle or aftermarket dealers, but may be found at bike shows. These helmets do not have an impact-absorbing liner, are not DOT compliant and will not provide protection from an impact to your head.

1-17 | Gear Problem Identification Part Two | Priority 1

[INTERACTIVE]

[1.3.1] Use buttons below to inspect the helmet, then identify its problems.

Q1: Faceshield scratched A: Good, you spotted a problem. Scratched faceshields, goggles or glasses are difficult to see through, especially at night, so replace them when they get scratched.

Q2: Visible damage to shell

A: Good, you spotted a problem. Inspect your helmet periodically for visible damage (chips, cracks or dents in the liner). Always replace a damaged helmet; it is designed to protect you in one crash.

Q3: No DOT label inside or outside A: Good, you spotted a problem. DOT-compliant helmets have a DOT label already in place, both outside and inside the helmet. The labeling signifies that the helmet is compliant and meets safety standards.

Q4: Chinstrap missing A: Good, you spotted a problem. There is no way to secure this helmet to your head. Chinstraps are sometimes cut when a helmet is defective or damaged (to discourage use).

[3.3.2] Q5: Dark color A: Good, you spotted a problem. A black helmet is not very conspicuous. A white or brightly- colored helmet is much more visible to other drivers. Being highly visible reduces your chances of a crash. You can add retro-reflective decals to your helmet to help you be seen after dark.

1-18 | Final Activity – Purchase Riding Gear | Priority 1

[3.3.2] Now that you have learned about the features and characteristics of safe riding gear and how to make the right choices for you, it’s time to go shopping! How great is that? In this activity you will meet a sales person who will offer you choices for purchasing a riding helmet, a jacket, gloves and a pair of riding pants.

With each question the sales person asks, you will select a response as if it were a conversation. Then you will choose the item you want to buy after comparing various styles of that item. For example, you will look at three types of riding gloves and then decide which pair is the best one for you.

Each item you select has a safety value. For selecting the safest items, you will receive a score of five. For selecting the least safe item, you will receive a score of one. Your goal is to score as high as possible on your shopping experience. Click ‘start’ to begin – and good luck!

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [1.3.1] Helmet A: Full-Face [or Modular] Helmet DOT approved Available in black, white, silver, maroon, blue, and high-viz yellow or orange Removable liner for cleaning Fully vented for airflow

That's a great helmet. People will see you easily, it has style, and all the key safety features you learned about earlier. You'll be happy with your choice. Let's move on to jackets.

Q: [1.3.7] Jacket A: Motorcycle Jacket Heavy-duty Kevlar/CORDURA Nylon material Body armor in elbows, shoulders, and back Retro-reflective accents on chest, arms, and back Secure closures at wrists and collar Zippered vents for airflow

Nice choice. You'll be glad for all that protection if the bike goes down. I also like the sleeves and the lower cut in back. I think you remember why that matters. The retro-reflective material looks good too! Hey, let's check out gloves now!

Q: [1.3.5] Gloves A: Gauntlet Gloves Heavy-duty leather Water-resistant GORE-TEX liner Gauntlets for extra coverage and wind protection Extra padding on palms and knuckles Pre-curved fingers for comfort Strap closure around wrist for secure fit.

I think you made a good choice. That pair is designed for cold, wet weather and the gauntlets will keep wind and rain out of your jacket. You will also have a better grip on the controls. So... what next?

Q: [1.3.6] Pants A: All Season Motorcycle Pants Heavy-duty Kevlar/CORDURA Nylon material Body armor in knees and hips Retro-reflective accents on legs and cuffs Adjustable waist and cuffs Zippered front Leg zippers for easy on/off

That's a good pair of riding pants. Make sure they fit when you are in the riding position - seated on a bike. I like the retro-reflective material on the legs; that will help with visibility, especially in this weather!

1-19 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about riding gear by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review riding gear at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 2 Motorcycle Controls

2-1 | Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn the location and operation of motorcycle or scooter controls, how to get underway, shift and stop. These skills are also practiced during the riding phase of the course.

If you are already familiar with motorcycle controls and can get underway, turn, shift and stop a motorcycle, you may skip Chapter 2 by taking a short quiz.

A passing score of 6 correct or more will allow you to proceed directly to Chapter 3. You may come back and review Chapter 2 at any time. If you score 5 or less on the quiz, you must complete Chapter 2 before moving on. You may try the quiz only once.

2-2 | Controls Are Important | Priority 2

[1.2.1.1] [2.1] Learning where the controls are on your motorcycle and how to use them is not just important, it is critical to your ability to be a safe and effective rider. Crashes happen quickly. Circumstances are sometimes beyond your control even when you are riding safely and making good decisions. Your ability to divide your attention between scanning for hazards and operating the motorcycle might be the difference between a scary moment and a disaster of fatal proportions.

2-3 | Control Locations | Priority 2

[2.1.1] The controls on a motorcycle are used to start the motorcycle engine, get the motorcycle moving, stop the motorcycle, see and communicate while riding, and view information about the operation of your motorcycle.

To start and shut off the engine, there are three controls which you see highlighted on the motorcycle panel: The Engine Cut-Off Switch – located near the right handgrip; the Ignition Switch – the key – usually located at the center of the instrument cluster; and the Start Button –

also located near the right hand grip.

In addition, some motorcycles have: A Choke; and a Fuel Supply Valve. You should consult your Owner’s manual to identify where these last two controls are if you have them on your motorcycle.

To shift gears, use: The Clutch Lever; the Shift Lever; and the Throttle. The Clutch Lever is located just in front of the left handgrip. The Shift Lever is located just in front of the left foot peg. The Throttle is the right handgrip.

To stop the motorcycle, use: The Front Brake Lever; and the Rear Brake Pedal. The Front Brake Lever located just in front of the right hand grip. The Rear Brake Pedal is located just in front of the right foot peg.

Click ‘next’ to practice identifying the location of these controls on your motorcycle.

2-4 | Starting Locations | Priority 1

[2.1.1] To make sure that you know where the three key controls are for starting the motorcycle, drag the name of each control to its correct location on the motorcycle.

[INTERACTIVE]

Engine Cut-Off Switch Ignition Switch Start Button

2-5 | Shifting and Stopping Locations | Priority 2

[2.1] Now, first identify the three controls for getting your motorcycle moving, and the two controls used to stop the motorcycle. Again, drag the name of each control to its correct location on the motorcycle.

[INTERACTIVE]

Throttle: [2.5.5] A light touch on the Throttle keeps you smooth. Shift Lever: This lever can be adjusted for a more comfortable position. Clutch Lever: [2.6.4] [2.6.5] [2.9.6] [2.9.7] When stopping, squeeze the Clutch Lever to avoid stalling. Brake Lever: Three quarters of your braking power comes from the front brake. Brake Pedal: Use your toe, not your foot, to apply rear brake.

2-6 | Starting the Engine | Priority 2

[2.2.2] Now, let’s take a look at how the controls work for starting and shutting off the engine.

The Engine Cut-Off Switch (sometimes called the “kill switch”) is located near the right handgrip. It is operated with your right thumb. Set the switch to the ‘run’ or ‘on’ position to start the motorcycle; set the switch to the ‘off’ position to shut the motorcycle off. The engine will not start with the switch in the ‘off’ position. The Engine Cut-Off Switch is used to stop the engine without removing your hands from the handlebars.

The Ignition Switch – the key - may be located in the center of the instrument cluster, in front of the gas tank, or below the seat. The Start Button is located near the right hand grip. It is operated by your right thumb. Before pushing the Start Button, check for a green light on the instrument panel indicating the motorcycle is in neutral.

If the motorcycle is not in neutral, squeeze the Clutch Lever and click the Shift Lever into neutral. You will see how to do this a little later.

2-7 | Starting Practice | Priority 1

[2.2.2] Now, click the control names in their correct order. If you need to remind yourself of the correct order of controls, click the replay button to review the video one more time.

[INTERACTIVE]

1 Engine Cut-Off Switch (or Ignition Switch) 2 Ignition Switch (or Engine Cut-Off Switch) 3 Check neutral 4 Start button

2-8 | Getting into Gear | Priority 2

[2.8.1] [2.8.2] The primary controls to get underway and shift gears on your motorcycle are: The Throttle, the Clutch Lever and the Shift Lever.

[2.4.3] [2.5.4] The Throttle is the right handgrip. Wrap all four fingers around the Throttle and twist your hand toward you – roll on the Throttle – to go faster; twist away from you – roll off the Throttle – to go slower. Always twist (or ‘roll’) the Throttle smoothly and keep your wrist parallel to the ground (a ‘flat wrist’) for maximum control.

[2.4.4] [2.4.5] The Clutch Lever is located just in front of the left handgrip. It operates like the clutch pedal in a car with a manual transmission. When you squeeze the Clutch Lever in (toward the hand grip), it takes power away from the rear wheel. When you release or ease the Clutch Lever out (smoothly!), it gradually adds power to the rear wheel. Think of the Clutch Lever as a volume control that you are slowly adjusting. It’s not an ‘on-off’ switch.

[2.8.1] [2.8.2] The Shift Lever is located just in front of the left foot peg. Pressing the lever down shifts the motorcycle into a lower gear. Lifting the lever up (put your toe under the lever and lift) shifts the motorcycle into a higher gear. Neutral is between first and second gear. Lift a half click up to go into Neutral from first gear or press a half click down to go into Neutral from second gear. After the Shift Lever has been pressed (or lifted), release the lever and allow it to reset to its original position. Note: Only operate the Shift Lever when the Clutch Lever is squeezed in.

Smooth and safe driving of your motorcycle requires coordination of the three controls we just described. Keep this sequence in mind when shifting gears: Roll off the Throttle with your right hand, squeeze the clutch with your left hand, shift gears with your left foot by pressing the Shift Lever down (to shift to a lower gear) or lifting the Shift Lever up (to shift to a higher gear), ease the Clutch Lever out with your left hand, and roll on the Throttle with your right hand to accelerate.

2-9 | Getting Underway and Shifting | Priority 2

Smooth and safe riding of your motorcycle requires learning to coordinate the three controls we just described – the Clutch Lever, the Throttle, and the Shift Lever.

[2.4.4] [2.4.6] To get underway with the motorcycle in neutral and the engine running, shift into first gear by squeezing the Clutch Lever and pressing firmly down on the Shift Lever. Then, ease out the Clutch Lever and smoothly roll on the Throttle. You will feel the motorcycle engine begin to engage the rear wheel as you ease out the clutch. The motorcycle starts to move forward, and away you go!

To shift, roll off the Throttle with your right hand and squeeze the Clutch Lever with your left hand. Shift gears with your left foot by pressing the Shift Lever down (to shift to a lower gear) or lifting the Shift Lever up (to shift to a higher gear), then ease the Clutch Lever out with your left hand. Now you are riding!

2-10 | Shifting Practice | Priority 2

[2.8.1] [2.8.2] Now, as you did when you practiced starting the motorcycle earlier, click on the control names in their correct order in response to instructions to shift gears. If you need to remind yourself of the correct order of controls, click on the replay button to see the entire

shifting sequence.

When you are ready, click your first control to shift up.

[INTERACTIVE]

Please select the correct order to shift UP. 1 Roll Off Throttle/Squeeze Clutch 2 Lift Shift Lever Up 3 Ease Out Clutch/Roll On Throttle

Please select the correct order to shift DOWN. 1 Roll Off Throttle/Squeeze Clutch 2 Press Shift Lever Down 3 Ease Out Clutch

2-11 | Braking | Priority 2

[2.6.2] The primary controls for stopping the motorcycle are: The Front Brake Lever located just in front of the right hand grip. Squeeze the lever smoothly with all four fingers to apply the front brake. When you are not actually using the brake, wrap your fingers around the Throttle for control. Remember that the front brake provides most of your stopping power.

The Rear Brake Pedal is located just in front of the right foot peg. Press the pedal to apply the rear brake. Note that the controls for braking (Front Brake Lever and Rear Brake Pedal) are on the right side of the motorcycle, and the controls for shifting (Clutch Lever and Shift Lever) are on the left side of the motorcycle. Brake on the right, shift on the left. Get into the habit of using both brakes for every stop.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: When applying the brakes to stop or slow down the motorcycle: A: [2.6.2] Squeeze the Front Brake Lever and press the Rear Brake Pedal at the same time. You are correct. [4.1.1] Use both brakes for maximum stopping effectiveness. Squeeze the Front Brake Lever with increasing pressure, use a lighter touch on the Rear Brake Pedal.

2-12 | See and Communicate | Priority 1

[2.1.1] Earlier, we introduced controls for starting and shutting off the engine, getting the motorcycle moving and stopping the motorcycle. Now, let’s look at controls for seeing and communicating while riding and for viewing information about the operation of your motorcycle.

Three controls on the left handlebar are: The High Beam Headlight Switch, the Turn Signal Switch and the Horn Button.

Operate the High Beam Headlight Switch with your left thumb. The headlight on your motorcycle is always on. There is no switch to turn it off. State law requires daytime headlight illumination for all motorcycles.

You also operate The Turn Signal Switch with your left thumb. Most motorcycle turn signals do not automatically cancel (like they do in cars), so remember to cancel your signal.

The Horn Button is also operated by your left thumb. Note that many motorcycle horns are not very loud. Use it when you need to, but don’t rely on the horn as your only response to a dangerous situation.

The Speedometer, which may include the Odometer and the Trip Meter, is located near the center of the instrument cluster or sometimes on the top of the gas tank. If your motorcycle has a Tachometer to indicate engine speed, it is usually located next to the Speedometer.

Informational lights, such as the Oil Pressure Light, the Neutral Light, the Turn Signal Reminder Light and the High Beam Indicator Light are all located on the motorcycle control panel. Every motorcycle should have both left and right rear view mirrors, adjusted properly to see the road behind you.

[2.2.3] The side stand on a motorcycle supports the motorcycle when you are not riding it. Make sure you put the side stand up before getting underway. [2.3.3] [2.2.3] When you park, put the side stand down, turn the handlebars to the left, and turn the ignition key to the lock position to secure the motorcycle.

Click ‘next’ to learn more about these controls and informational indicators.

2-13 | Terms Exercise 1 | Priority 1

[2.1.1] Informational displays on your motorcycle will help you be a safer rider and help you maintain your motorcycle. These include: The Speedometer, the Odometer, the Trip Meter and the Tachometer. Drag the display name on the left to its correct description on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Tells you how fast you are going; located near the center of the instrument cluster or sometimes on top of the gas tank. A: This is the: Speedometer.

Q2: Indicates the total number of miles the motorcycle has travelled; typically found on the speedometer. A: This is the: Odometer.

Q3: If your motorcycle has one, it is usually located next to the speedometer and it indicates engine speed. A: This is the: Tachometer.

Q4: Resettable on most motorcycles; typically right next to or below the odometer; can tell you how many miles you have travelled on a particular trip or since your last gas fill up. A: This is the: Trip meter.

2-14 | Terms Exercise 2 | Priority 1

[2.1.1] Let's try a few more information displays on your motorcycle. These include: the Neutral Light, the Oil Pressure Light, the Turn Signal Reminder Light and The High Beam Indicator Light Again, drag the display name on the left to its correct description on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Often green or blue, this light tells you that the motorcycle is in neutral (not in gear). A: This is the: Neutral Light.

Q2: Typically orange, this light lets you know that your turn signal is still flashing. A: This is the: Turn Signal Reminder Light.

Q3: Typically red, this light indicates low oil pressure. Note: This light always comes on when you turn the key. It should go off after you start the engine. A: This is the: Oil Pressure Light.

Q4: Typically blue, this light tells you that your headlight is set on high beam. A: This is the: High Beam Indicator Light.

2-15 | Final Activity – Select the Correct Controls | Priority 1

In the final activity of this chapter, you will demonstrate that you know which control you need to use and where that control is located in order for you to operate your motorcycle. You will click the controls in response to a series of instructions such as ‘start the motorcycle’ or ‘shift into first gear.’ If you make a mistake, you’ll be shown the correct control locations in the correct order and you will move on to the next instruction. There are a total of 10 instructions. This activity begins with the motorcycle engine off and the transmission in neutral.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.2.2] Start the motorcycle: 1 Turn the Ignition Switch to the "on" position 2 Turn the Engine Cut-Off Switch to "run" 3 Press the Start Button

Q2: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Place the motorcycle in first gear: 1 Squeeze the Clutch Lever 2 Press down on the Shift Lever

Q3: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.4.6] Get the motorcycle moving: 1 Gradually ease out the Clutch Lever while you 2 Roll on the Throttle

Q4: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Upshift to second gear: 1 Roll off the Throttle 2 Squeeze the Clutch Lever 3 Lift up on the Shift Lever

Q5: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Signal a turn: 1 Press the Turn Signal Button

Q6: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Sound the horn: 1 Press the Horn Button

Q7: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.6.3] Downshift to first gear: 1 Roll off the Throttle 2 Squeeze the Clutch Lever 3 Press down on the Shift Lever

Q8: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.6.2] [2.6.4] Stop the motorcycle: 1 Roll off the Throttle 2 Squeeze the Clutch Lever 3 Squeeze the Front Brake Lever and Press the Rear Brake Pedal

Q9: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Shift to neutral: 1 Squeeze the clutch 2 Lift a half-click up on the Shift Lever

Q10: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.3.1] Shut off the engine and turn off the ignition: 1 Turn the Engine Cut-Off Switch "off" 2 Turn the Ignition Switch to the "off" position

2-16 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about motorcycle controls by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review motorcycle controls at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 2b Scooter Controls

2b-1 | Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn the location and operation of scooter controls, how to get underway and stop. These skills are also practiced during the riding phase of the course.

If you are already familiar with scooter controls and can get underway, turn and stop a scooter, you may skip Chapter 2 by taking a short quiz.

A passing score of 4 correct or more will allow you to proceed directly to Chapter 3. You may come back and review Chapter 2 at any time. If you score 3 or less on the quiz, you must complete Chapter 2 before moving on. You may try the quiz only once.

2b-2 | Scooter Controls Are Important | Priority 2

Learning where the controls are on your scooter and how to use them is not just important, it is critical to your ability to be a safe and effective rider. Crashes happen quickly. Circumstances are sometimes beyond your control even when you are riding safely and making good decisions. Your ability to divide your attention between scanning for hazards and operating the scooter might be the difference between a scary moment and a disaster of fatal proportions.

2b-3 | Scooter Control Locations | Priority 2

[2.1.1] The controls on a scooter are used to start the scooter engine, get the scooter moving, stop the scooter, see and communicate while riding, and view information about the operation of your scooter.

To start and shut off the engine, there are three controls which you see highlighted on the

scooter panel: The Engine Cut-Off Switch – located near the right handgrip, the Ignition Switch – the key, usually located in the center of the instrument cluster, and the Start Button –also located near the right hand grip.

To get the scooter moving once the engine is running, use the Throttle – which is the right handgrip.

To stop the scooter, use the Front Brake Lever and the Rear Brake lever. The Front Brake Lever is located just in front of the right hand grip. The Rear Brake Lever is located just in front of the left hand grip.

Click ‘next’ to practice identifying the location of these controls on your scooter.

2b-4 | Scooter Starting Locations | Priority 2

[2.1.1] Now, let’s check that you know where the key controls are for starting the scooter, getting it moving and stopping. Drag the name of each control on the left to its correct location on the scooter on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scooter Controls 1 Engine Cut-Off Switch 2 Throttle 3 Ignition Switch 4 Rear Brake Lever 5 Start Button 6 Front Brake Lever

2b-5 | Starting the Scooter Engine | Priority 2

Now, let’s take a look at how the controls work for starting and shutting off the engine.

[2.2.2] The Engine Cut-Off Switch (sometimes called the “kill switch”) is located near the right handgrip. It is operated with your right thumb. Set the switch to the ‘run’ or ‘on’ position to start the scooter; set the switch to the ‘off’ position to turn the scooter off. The engine will not start with the switch in the ‘off’ position. The Engine Cut-Off Switch is used to stop the engine without removing your hands from the handlebars.

The Ignition Switch – the key – may be located in the center of the instrument cluster or below the handlebars.

The Start Button is located near the right hand grip. It is operated by your right thumb. Note: most scooters will not start without engaging one or both brakes first – so plan on squeezing the brake before you thumb the starter button.

2b-6 | Scooter Starting Practice | Priority 1

[2.2.2] Now, click the control names in their correct order. If you need to remind yourself of the correct order of controls, click the replay button to review the video one more time.

[INTERACTIVE]

1 Engine Cut-Off Switch [or Ignition Switch] . 2 Ignition Switch [or Engine Cut-Off Switch] . 3 Squeeze brake 4 Start button

2b-7 | Scooter Throttle and Braking | Priority 2

The primary control to get underway on your scooter is: The Throttle, which is the right handgrip.

[2.4.3] [2.4.6] [2.5.4] Wrap all four fingers around the Throttle and twist your hand toward you – roll on the Throttle – to go faster; twist away from you – roll off the Throttle – to go slower. Most scooters have automatic transmissions, so simply twist the Throttle and you’re on your way. Always twist – or roll – the Throttle smoothly and keep your wrist parallel to the ground – a flat wrist – for maximum control.

[2.6.2] The primary controls for stopping the scooter are the Front Brake Lever and the Rear Brake Lever. Get into the habit of using both brakes for every stop. Remember, the Front Brake Lever is located just in front of the right hand grip. Squeeze the lever smoothly with all four fingers to apply the front brake.

When you are not actually using the brake, wrap your fingers around the throttle for control. The front brake provides most of your stopping power. The Rear Brake Lever is located just in front of the left handgrip. Squeeze the lever smoothly with all four fingers to apply the rear brake. Again, use both Brake Levers every time you need to stop.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: When applying the brakes to stop or slow down the scooter:

A: [2.6.2] Squeeze the Front Brake Lever and the Rear Brake Lever at the same time. You are correct. [4.1.1] Use both brakes for maximum stopping effectiveness. Squeeze the Front Brake Lever with increasing pressure, use a lighter touch on the Rear Brake Lever.

2b-8 | See and Communicate | Priority 1

[2.1.1] Earlier, we introduced controls for starting and shutting off the engine, getting the scooter moving and stopping the scooter. Now, let’s look at controls for seeing and communicating while riding and for viewing information about the operation of your scooter. Three controls on the left handlebar are: The High Beam Headlight Switch, The Turn Signal Switch and The Horn Button.

Operate the High Beam Headlight Switch with your left thumb. The headlight on your scooter is always on – there is no switch to turn it off. State law requires daytime headlight illumination for all scooters.

You also operate The Turn Signal Switch with your left thumb. Most scooter turn signals do not automatically cancel (like they do in cars), so remember to cancel your signal.

The Horn Button is also operated by your left thumb. Note that many scooter horns are not very loud. Use it when you need to, but don’t rely on the horn as your only response to a dangerous situation.

The Speedometer, which may include the Odometer and the Trip Meter, is located near the center of the instrument cluster. Informational lights, such as the Oil Pressure Light, the Turn Signal Reminder Light and the High Beam Indicator Light are all located on the scooter control panel. Every scooter should have both left and right rear view mirrors, adjusted properly to see the road behind you.

The side stand – or center stand – on a scooter supports the scooter when you are not riding it. Make sure you put the side stand – or center stand – up before getting underway. [2.3.3] When you park, put the side stand – or center stand – down, turn the handlebars to the left, and turn the ignition key to the lock position to secure the scooter.

Click ‘next’ to learn more about these controls and informational indicators.

2b-9 | Scooter Terms Exercise | Priority 1

[2.1.1] Informational displays on your scooter will help you be a safer rider and help you maintain your scooter. These include: The Speedometer, the Odometer, the Trip Meter, the Oil Pressure Light, the Turn Signal Reminder Light, and The High Beam Indicator Light. Drag the display name on the left to its correct description on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Resettable on most scooters; typically right next to or below the odometer; it can tell you how many miles you have travelled on a particular trip or since your last gas fill up. A: This is the: Trip Meter.

Q2: Tells you how fast you are going; located near the center of the instrument cluster or sometimes on top of the gas tank. A: This is the: Speedometer.

Q3: Indicates the total number of miles the scooter has travelled; typically found on the speedometer. A: This is the: Odometer.

Q4: Typically blue, this light tells you that your headlight is set on high beam. A: This is the: High Beam Indicator Light.

Q5: Typically red, this light indicates low oil pressure. Note: This light always comes on when you turn the key. It should go off after you start the engine. A: This is the: Oil Pressure Light.

Q6: Typically orange, this light lets you know that your turn signal is still flashing. A: This is the: Turn Signal Reminder Light.

2b-10 | Final Activity – Select the Correct Controls | Priority 1

In the final activity of this chapter, you will demonstrate that you know which control you need to use and where the control is located in order for you to operate your scooter. You will click the controls in response to a series of instructions such as ‘start the scooter’ or’ stop the scooter.’ If you make a mistake, you’ll be shown the correct control locations in the correct order and you will move on to the next instruction. There are a total of 5 instructions. This activity begins with the scooter engine off.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.2.2] Start the scooter: 1 Turn the Ignition Switch to the "on" position 2 Turn the Engine Cut-Off Switch to "run" 3 Squeeze the Brake(s) and press the Start Button

Q2: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Get underway from a stop: 1 Roll on the Throttle

Q3: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Signal a turn:

1 Press the Turn Signal Button

Q4: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Sound the horn: 1 Press the Horn Button

Q5: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] Brake: 1 Squeeze the Front Brake Lever and the Rear Brake Lever

Q6: [2.1.1] [2.1.2] [2.3.1] Shut off the engine and turn off the ignition: 1 Turn the Engine Cut-Off Switch "off" 2 Turn the Ignition Switch to the "off" position

2b-11 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about scooter controls by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review scooter controls at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 3 | Taking Control

3-1 | Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn strategic lane positioning to see and be seen and the process of scanning to identify hazards, clues and escape routes. Riders will also learn strategies to avoid hazards and correct responses for dealing with hazards.

3-2 | Riding in Oregon | Priority 1

Riding in Oregon and throughout much of the northwest is a special experience. Our diverse landscape can make each ride a unique memory. Urban riding has distinct characteristics too, from seeing Mt. Hood as you cross the bridges in Portland to paying less at the pump as you navigate commuter traffic.

3-3 | Diving Attention | Priority 1

In Chapters One and Two, you learned about riding gear and mastering your motorcycle’s controls. These are just the first steps in taking control of your ride. The real challenge of riding is operating your bike in unpredictable situations including traffic and changing conditions, while

searching for hazards and avoiding them.

[1.2.1.1] Being able to successfully divide your attention between riding the bike and managing your environment is the mark of a skilled rider. Anything that takes your attention away from these tasks can cause a crash.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: His point is that: A: Skilled riders are able to divide their attention between riding the bike and managing the environment – which means searching for hazards and avoiding them. A: You are correct. [3.1.1] As a motorcycle rider you’ll face hazards that you have never noticed from the comfort of your car. Wet leaves, oil or gravel on the road, potholes and slippery pavement markings pass by unnoticed when you’re driving, but can pose serious hazards if you let them surprise you when you’re on two wheels.

3-4 | Recognizing Clues | Priority 2

Motorcycling is very different from driving a car. The level of skill and awareness you need to drive a car safely is not enough to ride a motorcycle safely.

Riders are vulnerable: [3.1.2] Motorcycle riders can’t just roll up the windows and adjust the heat or air conditioning in severe weather. Gusty winds and wet pavement make riding even more challenging. [3.1.3] [3.1.7] Without bumpers, roll cages and airbags, you have less protection from impact with other vehicles. You are also much more vulnerable to injury from crashes with bicycles, pedestrians and animals.

There is no such thing as a fender-bender in a motorcycle crash. Riders almost always get hurt. The only protection you have comes from your riding gear. Choose good gear and wear it every ride.

[3.2.1] The most important action riders can take to avoid crashes is to scan ahead for hazards and clues to potential hazards as they ride.

Now, let’s look again at the riding video you just saw. Click on the clues or hazards you will now see in that video and learn about what you should be looking for.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.1.3] Blocked View – Unseen vehicle, pedestrian, or animal could pop out suddenly.

Scene 2: Mailbox Indicates Hidden Driveway – Unseen vehicle could pull out.

Scene 3: [3.1.1] Road Surface Color – A change in color or texture could mean a slippery surface.

Scene 4: [3.1.1] Railroad Tracks – Bumpy or slippery surface, deep grooves could "trap" motorcycle tire.

Scene 5: [3.1.2] [4.10.1] Gusty Winds – Large vehicles can create or block wind gusts.

Scene 6: [3.1.1] Construction Zone – Could mean sand or debris on road or uneven road surface ("edge trap").

3-5 | Hazards and Clues | Priority 1

You just saw examples of some of the hazards, and clues to potential hazards, a rider can face. Throughout this course, we will look at many other hazards and clues and help you interpret what these clues might mean or what can happen if the rider misses these clues. Some are obvious – but some are not.

[3.2.4] [6.3.1] [1.2.1.3] Remember, inattentiveness and distractions cause both drivers and motorcycle riders to make mistakes. If you find yourself daydreaming and being surprised by hazards, take a break to get your focus back and regain control of your ride.

Now, match each image and description of a hazard or clue with an explanation of its meaning or possible consequence.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [3.1.3] Rider's view blocked. A: Image 4. It is not so much the truck that could cause a problem, it's what's behind the truck that you can't see.

Q2: [3.1.1] Surface markings are slippery when dry; very slippery when wet. A: Image 5. [3.2.4] A great ride can end in a hurry crossing a slippery painted line. Use caution!

Q3: Sharp curve is approaching. A: Image 2. [3.1.5] Curvy roads are a significant factor in single-vehicle motorcycle crashes. Overriding sight distance in corners – riding too fast to stop in the distance you can see to be clear – often traps unprepared or overconfident riders. Curvy roads are danger zones. Be prepared.

Q4: [3.1.3] Door could open, or driver about to pull out.

A: Image 3. Sudden changes in traffic flow (a parked car's door opening, a bicyclist's sudden move, a pedestrian or wild animal crossing) can be dangerous and easily cause a crash if you are not paying close attention. Give them plenty of space and be prepared to act.

Q5: Driver is about to turn. A: Image 1. [3.1.5] Intersections are prominent spots for vehicle crashes. So are construction zones. Shopping malls and office parks, areas with entrances, exits, and driveways have lots of turning traffic.

Nice job matching clues, hazards, and their consequences. A new button has been placed on your dashboard with information about many more potential hazards. Use it to learn the clues riders need to recognize and the meanings of those clues.

[SUPPLEMENT – DASHBOARD RESOURCE]

Hazards and Clues

Motorcycle riders face hazards that drivers of other vehicles may never notice. Take a look below at the clues riders watch for and what those clues might mean.

Q1: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Oncoming car sitting at green light: A: Driver about to turn; will pull out into motorcyclist’s path.

Q2: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.5] Yellow “curve” sign with advisory speed: A: Sharp curve approaching; may be a blind curve; may have surface or other hazard just out of sight distance.

Q3: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.1] Shiny area on road surface: A: Slippery spot.

Q4: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Parked delivery truck: A: View blocked: Vehicle, bicycle or pedestrian will dart out from behind truck.

Q5: [3.1.3] Head visible inside a parked vehicle: A: Door will open or driver will pull out into motorcyclist’s path.

Q6: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.1] Painted road markings: A: Slippery when dry; very slippery when wet.

Q7: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Vehicle pulled over onto road shoulder: A: Driver is about to make a U-turn or pull out into rider’s path

Q8: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] Hill:

A: Limited visibility, hazard could be lurking just beyond sight distance

Q9: [1.2.1.5] [3.2.3] Merge area: A: Vehicles changing lanes, traffic slowdown; traffic trying to enter roadway; drivers making last- minute decisions; vehicle will pull into my lane

Q10: [1.2.1.5] Construction zone: A: Sand or gravel (traction hazard), or uneven road surface (edge trap)

Q11: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Slow-moving truck or bus ahead: A: Vehicles changing lanes; view blocked: Vehicle, bicycle or pedestrian could dart out

Q12: [1.2.1.5] Light pole on rural road: A: Hidden intersection: Vehicle could pull out into motorcyclist’s path

Q13: [1.2.1.5] Mailbox along rural road: A: Hidden driveway: Vehicle could pull out into motorcyclist’s path

Q14: [1.2.1.5] Smell of burning rubber: A: Very recent skidding stop or blown tire; traffic could be stopped ahead or debris in road

Q15: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Smell of cow manure: A: Animals or tractor in roadway

Q16: [3.1.3] [3.2.4] Children playing in driveway: A: Could suddenly run into street

Q17: [3.1.3] [3.2.4] Pedestrians approaching crosswalk: A: Traffic stops suddenly to allow pedestrians to cross

Q18: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] [3.2.4] Pizza or sandwich delivery vehicle: A: Could make a sudden stop or turn without signaling

Q19: [1.2.1.5] “No U-Turn” sign: A: Limited visibility: Hazard could be lurking just beyond sight distance

Q20: [1.2.1.5] Tall fence at roadside: A: Blocked view: Vehicle, bicycle, pedestrian or animal could dart out

Q21: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.1] Railroad crossing: A: Bumpy or slippery surface, angled crossing, edge trap (especially when parallel to path of travel)

Q22: [1.2.1.5] Driveway: A: Unseen vehicle could pull out

Q23: [1.2.1.5] Blocked view: A: Unseen vehicle, bicyclist, pedestrian or animal could pop out suddenly

Q24: [1.2.1.5] Vehicle waiting to turn or pull out: A: Will pull out into motorcyclist’s path

Q25: [1.2.1.5] Farm tractor moving slowly on rural highway: A: Will probably turn soon; if in oncoming lane, vehicle(s) behind it may try to pass

Q26: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.2] Steel bridge deck, manhole cover or construction plate: A: Slippery when dry; very slippery when wet

Q27: [1.2.1.5] Riding in another driver’s blind spot: A: Driver will move into my lane without warning

Q28: [1.2.1.5] Following a vehicle too closely: A: Won’t see an object or surface hazard in my lane until after it passes under vehicle ahead

Q29: [1.2.1.5] Sharp right turn sign (90 degree): A: Gravel from shoulder on road surface, especially toward inside edge

Q30: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.2] Standing water: A: Hydroplaning hazard; could hide pothole or edge trap

Q31: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.2] Smell of diesel fuel: A: Slippery diesel spill on roadway

Q32: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.2] First rainfall after a dry spell: A: Road very slippery until rain washes the surface clean

Q33: [1.2.1.5] [4.10.1] Flying debris or dust in the air: A: Gusty winds present

Q34: [1.2.1.5] “Uneven pavement” sign: A: Edge trap(s) present; changing position or changing lanes could be hazardous

Q35: [1.2.1.5] Stopped in congested traffic or at red light: A: Vehicle approaching from behind may not stop.

Q36: [1.2.1.5] Hot or cold weather:

A: Dehydration or wind chill

Q37: [6.3.2] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] You have ridden long miles in a single day: A: You may be fatigued, drowsy or distracted with getting there

Q38: [6.3.3] Strong emotions like excitement, anger, happiness, or grief: A: Normal judgment and decision making may be impaired

Q39: [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] Temporary health problem such as illness or injury: A: Poor concentration and/or slower coordination and reactions

Q40: [1.2.1.5] Severe heat or very cold weather: A: Heat stroke or hypothermia can set in without being noticed

Q41: [1.2.1.5] Change in road surface color or texture: A: Possible change in available traction

Q42: [1.2.1.5] Black, snake-like lines (crack sealant) on road surface: A: Slippery “tar snakes” offer less traction, especially when hot, and can cause a crash

Q43: [1.2.1.5] [4.6.2] [6.3.1] [1.2.1.2] Change in weather conditions: A: Visibility and traction may be reduced. Sudden temperature changes may create discomfort and distract the rider

Q44: [1.2.1.5] [4.10.1] Trees swaying with branches in motion: A: Strong or gusty winds

Q45: [1.2.1.5] Break in (white) fog line at right edge of road: A: Hidden intersection or driveway

Q46: [3.1.3] School yard, children playing: A: Child will run out into street

Q47: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] Road sign with picture of a deer: A: Deer, elk, or other roaming herd animals may be present, even if not visible

Q48: [1.2.1.5] Driver in moving vehicle with hand up to ear: A: Distracted driver, may behave erratically, move into rider’s position without looking

Q49: [1.2.1.5] Police car on side of highway: A: Traffic ahead will abruptly slow, vehicles behind may not slow or stop

Q50: [1.2.1.5] Riding behind pickup truck with uncovered load in back:

A: Debris may fly out of truck

3-6 | Riding Strategy | Priority 2

[3.1.5] [3.1.6] [3.3.2] Motorcycles are so much smaller than other vehicles that they are easily hidden in traffic. Their narrow profile and closely spaced lights make them less visible and make it harder for drivers to judge a motorcycle’s speed and distance. Three riding strategies or behaviors help keep riders safe. They are:

[3.3.4] A ‘See-Me’ strategy – making your presence on the road obvious by maximizing your visibility and creating a space cushion.

[3.4.1] [3.3.5] Communicating intentions as well as presence. When turning, changing lanes or passing, signal well in advance and use hand signals whenever possible to help attract attention. Toot your horn to let another motorist, bicycle rider or pedestrian know you’re there. Make certain that no driver ever has an excuse to say, “I didn’t see the motorcycle.”

[3.2.1] And always thinking ahead – way ahead – with a ‘heads up’ search plan to recognize clues, to identify and avoid hazards before they become critical.

Think about each of these strategies or behaviors and then use your mouse to drag the characteristic on the left to its correct strategy or behavior on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

[3.3.2] Be Visible 4 Adjust lane position. 5 Maintain proper following distance. 7 Use retro-reflective materials on riding gear and bike. 8 [4.8.1] Wear bright, colorful riding gear.

[3.4.1] Communicate 2 Use lights and signals. 3 Use hand signals. 6 Sound horn.

[3.2.1.1] Think Ahead 1 Plan for escape. 9 Scan aggressively for clues. 10 [3.3.4] Establish space cushion. 11 Identify potential hazards.

3-7 | Lane Positioning and Visibility | Priority 2

[3.3.3] Now, let’s take a look at important aspects of the actions or strategies you just learned about:

[3.3.2] [3.3.4] A see me strategy depends on maintaining proper distance – the space cushion required for others to see you and for you, the rider, to see the road. A good space cushion is the result of good decision-making about lane positioning – that is, where you are in relation to other drivers, other riders and hazards such as side roads, construction areas, an upcoming curve in the road, roadside obstructions and other road users like bicyclists and pedestrians.

Maximize visibility with bright, colorful riding gear, retro-reflective patches or striping. But even with good positioning and highly visible gear, you must always assume that others don’t know you are there.

3-8 | Examples of Lane Positioning | Priority 3

[3.3.1] [3.3.3] [3.3.4] [3.4.3] An active, purposeful search will give you the situational awareness to manage your speed and roadway position. When we talk about lane positioning, we mean that riders should always maintain a position where they can see and be seen. This may require adjusting speed or position within a lane, changing lanes, turning away from a hazard or increasing your following distance so you can see farther ahead and traffic can see you sooner. Slowing down and moving away from a potential hazard gives you time and space to maneuver while the situation unfolds.

[3.3.4] Maintain a safe space cushion between you and a vehicle in front by keeping at least a three to four second gap for time and space to react to changes ahead. Give yourself as much space as possible from traffic to the sides. [3.3.6] Make certain that you have an escape route planned just in case a driver does cut in front of you or stop suddenly. Always have an out, and remember that an escape route only has to be big enough for a motorcycle.

[3.3.3] [3.3.6] [3.4.2] There is no one lane position that is best all the time. Use good judgment to adjust your speed and lane position as necessary to see and be seen, maintain a space cushion and enable an escape route, and avoid surface hazards. Don’t hurry into danger. Slowing and moving away from hazards can often neutralize them.

[3.4.1] [3.3.5] When turning, changing lanes, passing or merging, signal in advance, make sure you have safe space for the maneuver, position yourself carefully and manage your speed wisely. Remember, above all, situational awareness paired with good judgment and early purposeful action is always better than an emergency reaction to danger seen too late.

3-9 | More on Lane Position and Space Cushion | Priority 1

[3.1.5] [3.3.1] [3.3.4] [3.3.5] [3.3.2] [3.4.3] Riders find themselves in many situations in which they must choose their position carefully to see what’s up ahead, be visible to others, create more space cushion or be ready to ‘escape’ from a potentially disastrous situation. Understanding lane positioning is critical to your success as a motorcyclist. Click on the buttons below to see important examples of the choices riders face in different situations.

[INTERACTIVE]

Sight Lines 1 [4.2.3] Maximize line of sight when entering blind corners by choosing a lane position toward the outside of the curve. Changes in the color or texture of the road surface can indicate that available traction may change.

Sight Lines 2 [1.2.1.5] [1.2.2] [3.3.4] [3.4.3] Large vehicles can be a hazard because they block the line of sight. Increase following distance and adjust position for a better view ahead. If you can't see the driver's eyes (or the side mirrors), you are in a blind spot. The driver ahead can't see you!

Space Cushion 1 [3.3.3] [3.3.4] [4.10.2] Maximize your space cushion when wind or surface conditions might cause the bike to weave or wander.

Space Cushion 2 [3.3.4] [3.3.4] [3.3.6] Leaving a generous space cushion ahead allows riders time and space to respond to hazards that may approach from the rear – be ready to use your escape route! Increase your space cushion when the road surface is wet or visibility is poor.

Hazards 1 [4.6.1] Construction zones can contain many surface hazards such as sand, gravel, slippery plates and edge traps. Reduce your speed and choose your path early – then keep your eyes up. A change in traffic flow can catch drivers by surprise. What sign does the oncoming traffic see? Also note the vehicle parked on the road ahead.

Hazards 2 [4.6.1] Riders must think differently about the road surface than drivers. Be aware of hazards that could grab hold of the front wheel and cause a crash.

Blind Spots 1 [1.2.1.5] [3.3.3] If you can't see the driver's eyes in their side view mirror, assume they can't see you and expect a path-of-travel violation. With the left lane blocked, this rider has very few options for responding to a lane violation.

Blind Spots 2 [3.3.4] [4.6.4] Large vehicles create large blind spots. You can’t see what is in front of the bus. Keep a good space cushion, move as far left as possible and be ready to stop.

Escape Route 1 [3.2.1] [3.3.6] An escape route is an alternate position or path a rider could take in response to a hazard. Using the shoulder or the space between vehicles in an emergency should not be confused with "lane splitting," which is illegal in most states. A left-hand position makes it more difficult to use the escape route to the right. The right side would also allow for a better view ahead.

Escape Route 2 [3.2.1] [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.3.6] Aggressively scan 10 seconds ahead to give yourself time to respond to hazards in your immediate path of travel. Escape routes can quickly disappear when conditions change. This rider will shortly lose all their escape routes while moving onto an unfriendly surface.

3-10 | Making Decisions on Lane Positioning 1 | Priority 1

[3.1.5] [3.3.3] In these next two activities, you will watch a rider move into a situation where he or she may have to make a decision about changing lane position. At the decision point, the video will pause and you will be asked what the rider should do. Select the best answer based on what you know so far about lane positioning.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [Video: Partially hidden vehicle at right waiting to pull out on urban road.] [3.3.2] [3.3.4] A: Move to the leftmost part of the lane to maximize visibility and space cushion as rider approaches vehicle. Slow slightly and be prepared to brake. You are correct! Maximizing your visibility and allowing others to see you most easily will help you avoid many hazards.

3-11 | Making Decisions on Lane Positioning 2 | Priority 1

[3.3.3] Here is a different situation for you, the rider, to identify the best lane position

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [Video: Blind left-hand curve on rural road.] A: Rider should slow and move to the right side of the lane so that he or she can see farther through the turn. You are correct! From the “outside” position, the rider can see the oncoming

car sooner.

3-12 | Mid-Chapter Quiz | Priority 1

Okay. You’ve had some time to learn about clues and hazards, riding strategy and lane positioning – and observe how riders must think about each of these aspects of riding. Now, let’s test your growing knowledge with a short quiz.

Q1: Which statement best characterizes the difference between the hazards of motorcycle riding and car driving? A: The skills required to drive a car safety are not enough to ride a motorcycle safely.

Q2: When you see a vehicle waiting at a green light, you should predict: A: The driver is about to turn.

Q3: A 'See Me' strategy for being visible includes: A: Positioning oneself to see clues and potential hazards, and to be seen by other vehicles.

Q4: ‘Thinking ahead' as a riding strategy refers to: A: Having a search plan to recognize clues and avoid hazards before they become critical.

Q5: Planning an escape route when riding a motorcycle means: A: Having an 'out' in case a driver cuts in front of you or stops suddenly.

3-13 | Introduction of Scanning | Priority 1

[3.2.1] You’ve got the right gear. You know how to get the bike started and moving. Now you are on the road. To reduce the likelihood of surprises, riders should constantly be scanning the environment around them and the road ahead of them.

Your goal is to know what’s going on all around you – all of the time. This situational awareness is your most important tool for recognizing and managing risk. It helps you make good judgments, manage time and space and move smoothly through traffic with no surprises for you or the drivers around you. When you are on two wheels, surprises are bad. Always bad.

3-14 | Scanning at Different Speeds | Priority 2

This is how fast the road comes at you at 20 miles per hour. Here’s how fast it comes at you at 35 miles per hour. Here’s what it looks like at 50.

[3.2.1] [3.2.1.1] [2.5.3] But if you keep your eyes up and your awareness well out ahead of you,

you’ll notice how it all seems to slow down. The road appears to come at you slower, even though you’re still going 50 miles an hour. The faster you go, the farther up the road you need to look because hazards ‘way ahead’ will be on top of you sooner. Scanning way ahead on the road will make all the difference between a safe ride and a ride ending in a disastrous crash that could have been avoided.

In this example, the rider sees a change in the color of the road surface ahead, understands that this might mean a change in the quality of the surface and prepares by slowing down.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [2.5.3] Based on what you just heard and saw, which of the following statements is true? The faster you go, the farther ahead you need to scan. Keeping your eyes up and scanning well ahead will help you avoid hazards. Slowing down is a good response to potential hazards. A: All of the above. You are correct! All of these statements about the relationship between speed and scanning ahead are true.

Q: [3.2.1] Based on what you just heard and saw, what should you conclude about scanning? A: Scanning should be purposeful and active. You are correct! Riders should not assume they will immediately recognize all hazards – riders should scan for hazards aggressively.

3-15 | Keep Your Eyes Moving | Priority 3

[3.2.1] Scanning way ahead is the first step in keeping your eyes moving. [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] It means looking as far ahead as possible – 20 seconds – to get the “lay of the land” – your projected path of travel and the big picture. This provides you with the earliest clues to changes in traffic and roadway conditions and usually gives you plenty of time and space to deal with hazards.

Whenever you spot a clue or hazard way ahead, track that image as it moves closer. Is it stationary? Moving? In which direction? How fast? Be thinking about why that clue may be important, but all the while, keep casting your eyes out to catch new clues as they appear.

[3.1.4] [1.2.1.1] Do not stare at any one clue or hazard. Keep your eyes moving far ahead, near ahead, left and right, far ahead, near ahead – always moving. Target fixation – locking your eyes on a single hazard – diverts your attention from other potentially more dangerous, hazardous situations.

[3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] As you scan the immediate path of travel – your intended path for the next 10 seconds, watch other vehicles’ locations and movements. Active scanning means looking over, through, past and under other vehicles in order to gather clues about approaching hazards. [3.3.6] As you’re scanning, take note of potential escape routes – always maintain an alternate

path you could use to avoid a potential problem or collision.

If you were watching the video closely, you should now have a clearer idea of what to look for when you are scanning the road around you. From the boxes on the screen, select the correct descriptions of how to scan and what to scan for.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [1.2.1.5] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] Watch other vehicles’ locations and movements and take note of driveways, intersections and obstructions of your view. A: Thumbs up. Awareness of these clues help you predict what another driver might do next.

Q2: [3.2.3] [3.1.5] Pay special attention to traffic signs, signals and roadway markings. A: Thumbs up: You should use these clues to adjust speed and position; watch for intersections, construction warnings or traffic problems.

Q3: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] Scan roadway for radiator spills, road debris and surface changes A: Thumbs up. Slippery or unstable surfaces could affect handling and traction.

Q4: [3.2.1] [3.2.1.4] [3.2.4] Look to the sides for vehicles. Pay close attention to lanes around you. A: Thumbs up. You should always be aware of vehicles beside you and in your blind spots. Ask yourself, “What if I need to change lanes quickly? Is the path clear?”

Q5: [3.2.1] [3.2.1.6] [2.5.3] Periodically glance at instrument panel to monitor speed / check warning lights. A: Thumbs up. You should be aware of your instruments, but remember, your priority is out in front of you.

Q6: [3.2.1.5] [3.2.4] Check mirrors periodically to assess the traffic behind you. Watch for tailgaters or drivers who may want to pass. A: Thumbs up. Awareness of these clues helps you choose speed and position. Don’t forget to turn your head to check the blind spot not covered by your mirrors.

Q7: [3.2.4] [3.4.1] Scan the roadside ahead for bicyclists and pedestrians who could suddenly block your path. A: Thumbs up. A friendly toot of your horn can alert them to your presence.

Q8: Watch grassy shoulders and medians for animals like rodents, snakes and birds moving onto road. A: Thumbs down. While possible, these are not critical hazards.

Q9: [2.5.3] Observe road surface just ahead of your front tire for sharp objects such as nails. A: Thumbs down. At speed, you won’t be able to identify objects early enough to do anything

about it anyway. Get your eyes up!

3-16 | Scanning Way Ahead | Priority 1

[3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] Remember, scanning way ahead means looking ahead as far as possible – perhaps even 20 seconds of ride time ahead – to get the lay of the land. Once a rider spots a clue or hazard, they track that hazard as it gets closer, all the while continuing to cast their eyes out way ahead and reel in new clues. In this activity, look way ahead and spot the clues in each image as early as you can. Click ‘start’ to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.1.3] Vehicle pulled over onto shoulder.

Scene 2: [3.1.5] Mailbox along roadway.

Scene 3: [3.1.3] Slow moving bus.

Scene 4: [3.1.3] Check your mirror.

3-17 | Interpretation, Part 1 | Priority 2

[3.1.5] Good! You have successfully found the clues or hazards in the roadscape. When a potential hazard is identified, riders must then predict what might happen and decide how to respond.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: In the first video of the last segment, you correctly observed a vehicle pulled over on the shoulder of the road. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond? A: [3.1.3] The vehicle might make a U-turn. [3.4.2] Slow, [3.4.3] adjust position for better space cushion, sound horn, and prepare to stop quickly. Correct! Even parked vehicles can be potential hazards.

Q2: In the second segment of the video, you noticed a mailbox along the roadway. How would you interpret this clue and how would you respond? A: The mailbox might mean there’s a driveway or intersection there. [3.4.3] Adjust position for a better view and be prepared for a vehicle to appear.

Q3: [3.1.3] In the third segment of the video, you noticed a slow moving bus. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond? A: The bus is blocking your view of a vehicle about to pull out, or a pedestrian crossing the

street. [3.4.2] Slow and [3.4.3] adjust position to see and be seen. Be ready to stop quickly. Correct! Large, slow-moving vehicles create blind spots in traffic. Expect other drivers to make unpredictable moves to get around large, slow-moving vehicles, and pedestrians to step out and surprise you.

Q4: [3.1.3] In the final segment of the video, you correctly stopped for pedestrians in a crosswalk. What was the hazard, and how would you respond? [3.2.1.5] [3.3.6] A: Traffic behind you might not expect you to stop. Select escape route, check your mirrors, and watch for possible impact from behind. Correct! Flashing your brake lightl can also help alert drivers behind you to trouble ahead.

3-18 | Real-Time Scanning: Practice | Priority 1

[3.2.1] [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.2.1.4] Your goal as a rider is to be able to spot clues and hazards in real time as early as possible, interpret the clue or hazard and respond quickly to maintain a safe ride. Now, let’s practice scanning and identifying hazards. In this activity, you will watch a series of short videos. Each video will pause when it reaches a critical clue or hazard—one that might ordinarily require a response such as adjusting speed, changing position, et cetera. When the video stops, find the clue or hazard and click on it as quickly as you can. Ready?

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.1.5] View blocked by parked vehicle.

Scene 2: [3.1.3] Vehicle stopped in bicycle lane.

Scene 3: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Crack sealant/tar snakes.

Scene 4: [3.1.3] [3.1.5] View of turning vehicles blocked by turning vehicles.

Scene 5: [3.1.3] Merging vehicle.

Scene 6: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Sand/gravel.

Optional Scenes

Scene 7: [3.1.3] Vehicle approaching intersection.

Scene 8: [3.1.5] View blocked by parked vehicle.

Scene 9: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Bump/uneven roadway.

Scene 10: [3.1.3] Vehicle waiting to turn across rider’s path.

Scene 11: [3.1.5] Rider positioned in blind spot.

Scene 12: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Liquid on roadway.

Scene 13: [3.1.3] Hidden vehicle waiting to pull into rider’s path.

Scene 14: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Dirt/sand.

Scene 15: [3.1.3] Merging vehicle.

Scene 16: [3.1.5] View blocked by turning vehicle.

Scene 17: [3.1.3] [3.1.5] View of vehicle at intersection blocked by another vehicle.

Scene 18: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Crack sealant/tar snakes.

Scene 19: [3.1.1] Surface hazard: Sand/gravel.

Scene 20: [3.1.3] Potential conflict: Merging vehicle.

Scene 21: [3.1.3] [3.1.5] View blocked by turning vehicle.

Scene 22: [3.1.3] Hidden vehicle approaching intersection.

Scene 23: [3.1.5] Vehicle parked at roadside; pedestrians and/or animals nearby.

Scene 24: [3.1.3] Vehicle waiting to turn across rider’s path.

3-19 | Real-Time Scanning: Scored | Priority 1

[3.2.1] [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.2.1.4] Now, you will be scored on your ability to spot and interpret clues or hazards in real time. You’ll be shown four short videos. Each video will pause when it reaches a critical clue or hazard. When the video stops, you will have two seconds to identify the critical clue or hazard. You will be allowed only one click.

As with the previous activity, click on the clue or hazard as quickly as possible. This time, though – like in the real world – you will not get a second chance if you miss the clue or hazard the first time. Ready?

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.1.3] Oncoming vehicle approaching hidden driveway.

Scene 2: [3.1.1] Road surface color/texture change.

Scene 3: [3.1.5] Vehicles waiting to cross intersection or turn.

Scene 4: [3.1.5] Rider positioned in vehicle’s blind spot.

Optional Scenes

Scene 5: [3.1.5] Vehicle and debris in oncoming lane; vehicle may swerve into rider’s path.

Scene 6: [3.1.5] Mailbox and utility poles indicate hidden driveways.

Scene 7: [3.1.1] Road surface color/texture change.

Scene 8: [3.1.5] Parked vehicle blocking view of vehicle about to cross intersection or turn.

Scene 9: [3.1.1] Road surface color/texture change.

Scene 10: [3.1.5] Roadside feature and parked vehicle blocking view of vehicle about to cross intersection or turn.

Scene 11: [3.1.5] Bicyclist about to enter roadway.

Scene 12: [3.1.5] Vehicle about to cross intersection or turn.

3-20 | Interpretation, Part 2 | Priority 2

[3.1.4] The search for hazards never ends until your bike is parked. Until that moment, always keep your eyes moving on a purposeful search for clues. Focusing on a single point for too long interferes with scanning. This “target fixation” diverts attention from other hazardous situations that may be even more dangerous. However, identifying a potential hazard is not enough. Riders must predict what might happen and decide how to respond.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [3.2.4] In the first video in the last module, you may have observed an oncoming vehicle approaching a hidden driveway. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond?

A: [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.3.3] [3.3.4] The vehicle will turn left across your path of travel. Reduce speed, increase space cushion and be ready to stop quickly if necessary. Correct! An oncoming vehicle combined with intersections on your right should immediately get your attention, as the vehicle may choose to turn into one of those driveways without yielding right of way.

Q2: [3.1.1] In the second video in the last module, you may have observed a road surface color/texture change. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond? A: Available traction may change. [3.4.2] [3.4.3] Reduce speed and adjust position to avoid the potential hazard. Correct! When approaching a surface hazard, reducing your speed is always a good idea, but when you have the opportunity to avoid it, steering clear is even better.

[3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.3] Q3: In the third video in the last module, you may have observed vehicles waiting to cross the intersection or turn. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond? A: Either vehicle could enter or cross your path of travel. Reduce your speed and choose a lane position that gives you as much space as possible. Be ready to slow quickly and use your escape route if one of them pulls onto the road. Correct! You have no way of knowing which vehicle is more likely to see you, so be ready for either one of them to move.

[3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.3] Q4: In the last video in the last module, you may have observed that the rider was positioned in a vehicle’s blind spot. What did you predict might happen, and how would you respond? A: The truck will change lanes and crash into the rider. The rider should immediately move out of the driver’s blind spot. Correct! Hi-viz gear and bright headlights won’t help drivers see you if you’re in their blind spot. [3.4.3] If you’re in someone’s blind spot, either speed up or slow down, but get out of their blind spot immediately. Remember that if you can’t see the driver’s face in their side mirror, then they can’t see you.

3-21 | Final Activity – You Are the Rider | Priority 1

[3.2.1] [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.2.1.4] This chapter has been focused closely on lane positioning and scanning. Let’s see how well you can use these skills on a short trip on a busy road. You are now the rider.

The video of your ride will stop 10 times. At each stopping point, you will be asked to choose the best roadway position, identify the most important clue, hazard or consideration, make a prediction, [3.3.6] identify an escape route, or decide on the best response to the situation. To get the best score, you will need to observe clues or hazards as accurately as possible, interpret them correctly and make the best decisions. Click start to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.3.2] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 1: View blocked by vehicle ahead. Q1: What speed and lane position will provide the best visibility and line of sight?

A: [3.3.4] Slow to increase following distance and move left. Good answer! Adjusting your position this way allows you to see farther ahead, to be seen earlier by other traffic, and provides more time and space to respond to hazards.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 2: View blocked by vehicle parked on right. Q2: What is the most important hazard in this situation? A: [3.3.2] [3.3.3] Blind spot created by the parked vehicle. You are correct. The truck may be blocking your view of a potential hazard. You should [3.4.3] move left to increase your visibility, line of sight and space cushion.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 3: Vehicle in intersection waiting to enter traffic from left. Q3: What should a motorcyclist predict will happen next in this situation? A: Vehicle on left will turn right or pull into rider’s path. Good call. In a potentially hazardous situation, a rider should predict the worst possible outcome, then adjust speed and position as necessary.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.3.3] [3.3.6] Scene 4: Escape routes to right and left are blocked. Q4: Where is the best escape route in this situation? A: The only escape route is forward. You are correct. A rider should avoid situations in which there are no escape routes. [3.4.2] Adjust speed or position ASAP to create an escape route.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 5: Oncoming vehicle waiting to turn left across rider’s path. Q5: How should a motorcycle rider respond to this situation? A: Reduce speed, prepare to stop, and [3.4.3] move right to create space. This is a good response. A rider should assume the oncoming vehicle will turn left into his or her path and take immediate action.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 6: Hidden vehicle may pull into rider’s path from left. Q6: What is the best lane position in this situation? A: [3.3.3] [3.3.4] Right portion of lane. You are correct. A potential hazard is lurking behind the truck on the left. [3.4.3] Move right to improve space cushion and line of sight.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] Scene 7: Rider positioned in vehicle’s blind spot at right. Q7: What is the most important hazard in this situation? A: You are in another vehicle’s blind spot. You are correct. Assume the other driver will change lanes without ever knowing you are there. Get out of the blind spot immediately and position yourself to be seen.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.3] [3.3.6] Scene 8: Vehicle in intersection entering traffic from right.

Q8: Where is the best escape route in this situation? A: Center turn lane. You are correct. The center turn lane is clear if the vehicle on the right proceeds into your path.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] Scene 9: Long line of vehicles in adjacent lane to right; rider’s lane is clear. Q9: [3.3.1] [3.3.2] [3.3.3] [3.3.4] What should a motorcyclist predict will happen next in this situation? A: A vehicle on the right may move suddenly into your lane. You are correct. Slow down, [3.4.3] move left to increase space cushion and visibility and prepare to stop quickly or use your escape route.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] [3.1.5] [3.2.4] [3.3.3] Scene 10: Escape routes to right, left and forward are blocked. Q10: How should a motorcycle rider respond to this situation? A: [3.3.3] [3.3.4] [3.3.6] [3.4.3] Slow to create space cushion and escape routes. You are correct. Slowing creates time and space to respond to hazards and clues. Once you’ve increased following distance, adjust position left or right for better line of sight.

3-22 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about lane positioning and scanning by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review lane positioning and scanning at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 4 | Riding Skills

4-1 | Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn the proper techniques for cornering, braking and swerving. These skills are also practiced during the riding phase of the course.

4-2 | A Word about Traction | Priority 2

You’ll need some special skills to stay in control of your ride. Cornering, braking and swerving effectively are important tools that every rider must master. You will get instruction and practice in these skills during the riding phase of this course. Even the best riders are surprised from

time to time. Solid mental skills along with good physical skills will help you recover from these mistakes and manage your speed and position in critical situations.

Let’s begin with a look at traction. [4.3.1] [4.4.1] Traction is the force between your tires and the road that allows you to accelerate, brake and bank your motorcycle into turns. But traction, however, is limited. You only have so much traction at any given time, and you use it to corner, brake or swerve. It’s your job to manage your traction wisely.

Any time you notice a change in the color or texture of the road surface, assume there will be a change in traction. [4.3.1] For example, the traction you use when cornering or swerving – to lean the motorcycle – is not available for braking. If you apply the brakes too hard while leaned over, you may be asking for more traction than you’ve got. Once your traction’s gone, you are headed for a crash. Avoid using all your available traction – always ride with something left “in reserve.”

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: What is important to remember about traction is: A: Traction is limited. [4.3.1] For example, the traction you use for braking is not available for swerving. You are correct. Remember, keeping some traction in reserve helps you stay in control of your bike.

4-3 | Cornering: Introduction | Priority 2

In Oregon, most fatal motorcycle crashes are not caused by other drivers – they are caused by riders themselves. Carrying too much speed into a corner – riding too fast for conditions – is the most common reason riders fail to negotiate turns. This often causes riders to run wide in the curve and leave the roadway, or collide head-on with an oncoming vehicle. Controlling your motorcycle in curves is critical to your survival. [2.7.1] [2.7.2] [2.7.4] Safe cornering calls for a balanced approach of speed, lane positioning and scanning. Using good judgment to control entry speed is critical to safe cornering.

[2.7.9] [4.2.3] The best advice is “slow early, and look where you want to go.” Make certain that your guidance system – your head and eyes – are targeted on the path you wish to take. [4.2.5] Before you enter the corner, [4.2.5] turn your head and look through the curve. Continue scanning for the exit and keep your eyes level on the horizon. Now, click the buttons below to review key considerations for cornering safely.

[INTERACTIVE]

[4.2.3] Approach: As you approach, determine: is this one curve or a series of curves?

Tree lines: Study the tree lines or utility poles – which way does the curve go? Look for clues to

where the exit leads.

[2.7.1] [2.7.3] Signs: Watch the signs: what is the recommended maximum speed? If no exit is visible, slow more to avoid overriding sight distance. Select a gear that allows you to roll power on and off smoothly.

Slow: The advisory speed and a view of the approaching curve tells you how much to slow.

[2.6.3] [2.7.2] Speed: You need time and space to respond if something appears in your view. Downshift to a lower gear if necessary. Make sure you can stop within the distance you can see to be clear.

[2.7.4] Position: Choose the best lane position to see through the corner – enter from the outside of the turn.

Surface: Assess the surface quickly, then keep your eyes up. Are there hazards that could affect traction? If so, slow more or reduce your lean angle. Don’t stare at the ground.

All set? Based on all the information you’ve taken in, you are ready to carve this corner. Acquire your target – the turn’s exit – and look where you want to go.

4-4 | Cornering: Using Your Eyes | Priority 2

[2.7.3] [ 2.7.4] [2.7.8] [2.7.9] [4.2.4] Before you enter the corner: position yourself outside and slow down; turn your head and look through the curve; continue scanning for the exit; be ready to lean with the bike and finish the turn; at all times, look as far through the curve as you can.

The ability to get your eyes up and look through the turn is one of the most powerful tools a rider can use. Looking straight ahead or down at the road surface is nearsighted and dangerous. The road keeps coming at you but your awareness and directional control is stuck on the ground.

Getting your head and eyes up and looking through the turn really opens things up. Notice how much easier it is to see what’s coming up next. Notice how much sooner you spot hazards. Notice how much more comfortable it feels. Everything seems to move a little slower because your awareness is way up ahead of you, letting you know what’s around the corner.

The bike goes where you look – that’s directional control. You need time and space to respond if something unexpected happens. Adjust your speed so that you have time to respond to hazards within your sight distance.

[2.7.7] When the exit isn’t visible, slow more to avoid “overriding” your sight distance. Select a gear and maintain a steady speed through the turn. Keep your eyes up and look for the exit.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: The concept of overriding sight distance can best be described as: A: Riding too fast to stop within the distance you can see. You are correct. A critical component of safe riding means riding at a speed that gives you time and space to respond safely to sudden hazards.

Q2: [2.7.9] The reasons for looking through the turn while cornering are: A: To guide you through the turn and see what’s coming next. You are correct. You will corner much smoother and spot hazards much earlier when you look as far as possible through the turn.

4-5 | Cornering: Critical Riding Tips | Priority 3

Here are some important tips that will help you move through a corner safely.

[2.7.3] [2.7.5] [2.7.7] [2.7.9] [4.2.4] [4.2.6] As mentioned before: Slow down early, before the turn, then look through the turn. Try to maintain a steady throttle throughout the corner. This helps to stabilize the motorcycle.

[2.7.6] [4.2.4] To lean the bike, press on the handgrip in the direction of the turn – this is called countersteering. Lean with the bike. Adjust countersteering pressure to control your lean angle and lane position.

[2.7.4] [4.2.2] The best path or line through a turn doesn’t always follow the curve of the road. Enter from the outside of the turn. An outside position gives you the best line of sight through the curve. Choose a line that gives you the best space cushion and provides an escape route.

[2.7.2] [4.2.1] Keep your speed down and stay to the outside until the exit is visible. This is also known as a “delaying your apex.” Once you can see the exit, choose a path that allows you to finish the curve in position for the next turn.

[2.7.9] [3.1.4] [4.2.5] Finally, remember again this important advice: Staring at something too long almost guarantees that you’ll ride right into it. Target fixation is common in corners, when a rider’s gaze freezes on the guardrail, the edge of the road or an oncoming vehicle. Train yourself to look where you want to go. And remember: If you are staring at a potential hazard, you may miss other important clues. Keep your eyes moving!

[3.1.4] [4.2.1] We introduced some new motorcycle terms in this module, such as “apex” and “target fixation.” A new resource has been placed on your dashboard with definitions of these and other terms. Use it as a reference for important concepts riders need to know.

4-6 | Cornering: Countersteering | Priority 1

[2.7.6] [4.2.4] In the last video, we brought up a concept unique to two-wheeled vehicles: Countersteering. To lean the bike, press on the handgrip in the direction of the turn. When it comes to cornering, you steer a car, but you lean a motorcycle. “Countersteering” is how you lean the motorcycle. Simply press forward on the handgrip in the direction you want to go.

To lean left, press forward on the left handgrip. Pressure on the handgrip momentarily deflects the front wheel outward and causes the bike to lean to the left. To lean right, press foward on the right handgrip. The front wheel will deflect outward and cause the motorcycle to lean the bike to the right.

Press right to go right. Press left to go left. You give it a try. Click on the handlebars below the image to simulate pressing forward on the handgrips. Watch how the bike responds. This activity is meant only to demonstrate how the bike will respond to handlebar inputs. You will get instruction and practice in countersteering during the riding phase of this course.

[INTERACTIVE]

[Press the mouse button to “press” the handlebar; the motorcycle leans in response.]

4-7 | Cornering Positioning | Priority 1

[2.7.4] [4.2.2] [4.2.6] Being able to identify lane positions in a corner or a series of corners will help you adapt to any turn or combination of turns you encounter when you are riding. Look at the overhead graphic of a typical corner sequence. Five features of a corner can be named. Drag the names of the cornering positions to their correct spot in the graphic.

[INTERACTIVE]

1 Entrance to first turn 2 Inside 3 Outside 4 Exit 5 Entrance to next turn

4-8 | Cornering: Watch and Compare 1 | Priority 1

[2.7.2] [2.7.3] [2.7.4] [2.7.7] [2.7.8] [2.7.9] [4.2.2] [4.2.3] [4.2.4] [4.2.5] [4.2.6] In these next two

activities, you will see examples of a rider taking a corner. In this first video, the rider does a excellent job taking the corner. After watching the video, drag a description of a good cornering behavior to its appropriate spot in the image.

[INTERACTIVE]

1 Good lane position [outside] 2 Head and eyes up, looking through turn 3 Slowed before turn 4 Leaning with the motorcycle 5 Steady throttle – no abrupt changes

4-9 | Cornering: Watch and Compare 2 | Priority 1

[2.7.2] [2.7.3] [2.7.4] [2.7.7] [2.7.8] [2.7.9] [4.2.2] [4.2.3] [4.2.4] [4.2.5] [4.2.6] In this second video, the rider makes several significant mistakes in taking the corner. After watching the video, drag a description of a mistake the rider made to its appropriate spot in the image.

[INTERACTIVE]

1 Poor lane position [inside] 2 Eyes down, not looking through turn 3 Did not slow before turn 4 Not leaning with the bike 5 Braking late in turn

4-10 | Cornering: Handling Situations 1 | Priority 1

In chapter three, we talked about scanning ahead and lane positioning. In this chapter, we have been exploring traction and cornering. Now, let’s take a look at some realistic cornering situations.

[3.2.4] In these next three learning activities, you will look at video of three cornering scenarios. Each scenario will pause as you (the rider) get to a critical moment of decision. You will then be asked to identify the most important potential hazards and choose the best lane position. Click ‘play’ to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene: Vehicles on left and right waiting to turn or cross at intersection.

Q1: What is the rider’s most important consideration in this situation? A: Two potential hazards approaching from both sides. Correct. The rider is about to lose space cushion and escape routes.

Q2: What is the best lane position for this rider in this cornering situation? A: [4.2.6] Right side of lane. You are correct. By choosing the right side of the lane you “split the difference” between the two hazards and maximize space cushion to both sides.

4-11 | Cornering: Handling Situations 2 | Priority 1

[3.2.4] Here is another scenario. Gather clues as you ride and be prepared to identify potential hazards and choose the best lane position.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene: Approaching blind, right hand corner; temporary sign announcing local event 1/4 mile ahead.

Q1: What is the rider’s most important consideration in this situation? A: Vehicle and pedestrian traffic may be just ahead. Correct. Expect surprises around the corner, reduce your speed and be ready to stop.

Q2: What is the best position as the rider enters the cornering situation? A: Outside of corner. Correct! This position allows you to see farther through the turn and other drivers to see you sooner.

4-12 | Cornering: Handling Situations 3 | Priority 1

[3.2.4] And here is the last scenario. Again, gather clues as you ride and be prepared to identify potential hazards and choose the best lane position.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene: Debris falling from heavily-loaded vehicle ahead.

Q1: What do you predict is most likely to happen next? A: Improperly loaded vehicle could spill more debris in the corner. Good prediction! If an improperly loaded vehicle loses some of its cargo, it's a good bet that it may lose more - right in your path, midcorner!

Q2: What is the best position as the rider enters the cornering situation?

A: Center. Correct! While you would normally enter a turn from the outside position, the center position provides better options for escape routes if the truck drops more debris in the road.

Q3: What is an additional way to reduce risk in this situation? [3.4.1] A: Slow down and be prepared to stop. Good answer! Lowering your speed and preparing to stop in addition to choosing the outside lane position are effective ways to manage this situation.

4-13 | Mid-Chapter Quiz | Priority 1

Okay. You’ve had some time to learn about managing traction and cornering. Now, let’s test your growing knowledge with a short quiz.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: The best advice about cornering is to: A: look where you want to go.

Q2: As you approach a curve: A: determine how tight the curve is and how much to slow.

Q3: An outside position through a curve: A: gives you the best line of sight through the curve.

Q4: Overriding your sight distance means: A: not having enough time to respond to clues and hazards when you see them.

Q5: A rider determines how much to slow for a corner by: noting the advisory speed for the curve. observing the direction and tightness of the curve. assessing the road surface (traction). A: all of the above

4-14 | Stopping Quickly | Priority 3

[4.1.1] Stopping a motorcycle quickly requires skill and practice. Like cornering, you will get instruction and practice in these skills during the riding phase of this course.

While you want to avoid situations in which you have to stop quickly, you do need to be prepared.

When you need to brake quickly, both brakes have to be applied fully without locking either one. Locking either brake eliminates directional control – that is, your ability to steer – and may result in a crash. [4.1.5] Many motorcycles have anti-lock braking systems, known as ABS, that help prevent skids.

Some motorcycles also have linked braking or combined systems that apply both brakes when one brake is activated. We highly recommend these systems to enhance your control of the bike. Just be certain that you understand the brake system that is on your motorcycle, and practice to become familiar with it.

[2.6.2] When slowing or stopping quickly, use both brakes smoothly. Squeeze the front brake lever – do not grab it – to allow the motorcycle’s weight to transfer forward. Use light pressure on the rear brake. A smooth, firm squeeze of the front brake compresses the fork and increases the braking traction available to the front wheel. Squeezing progressively gives you a much shorter stopping distance.

[2.6.1] [4.1.2] Make sure when braking quickly that you keep your body centered with your eyes up, looking well ahead. This helps keep you balanced and helps you stop in a straight line. [4.1.3] If a wheel locks and skids, release that brake immediately and reapply it. ABS prevents wheel lockup.

[2.6.3] [4.1.4] During a quick stop, downshift as necessary to an appropriate gear so you are prepared to go. Traffic around you may not be able to stop as quickly – you need to be ready to use your escape route. Make it a habit to always use both brakes every time you need to brake, and practice your braking frequently. That way if you become surprised and need to slow or stop quickly, the proper technique will come naturally.

[INTERACTIVE]

Brakes: [2.6.2] Always use both brakes to stop. Remember that the front brake provides 75 percent or more of your stopping power.

Squeeze: [4.1.1] Squeeze the front brake firmly with increasing pressure; use lighter pressure on the rear brake.

Stop: [4.1.1] Watch the front of the motorcycle. Under maximum braking, the front compresses as weight shifts forward and traction increases. Squeeze the front brake with increasing pressure to stop in a shorter distance.

4-15 | Slowing or Stopping Quickly in a Curve | Priority 2

Now let’s consider the situation where you have to slow or stop quickly in a curve. [4.3.1] [4.3.2] Remember, traction that’s consumed for cornering cannot be used for braking. Therefore, if you

have to brake quickly in a corner, separate the traction demands by straightening your motorcycle first, then apply both brakes.

[2.9.1] [4.3.4] Straightening the bike also straightens your path of travel, so beware of crossing into oncoming traffic or leaving the roadway. Often it’s better to straighten the bike, brake, then release the brakes and complete the turn at lower speed. Recognize that this condition is in reaction to a cornering surprise, typically a consequence of too much speed and overriding sight distance.

[2.9.1] [4.3.3] When speed is under control and situational awareness gives you advance warning, the preferred method to stop in a curve is to stay within your lane. But remember, you have to share traction. Remember, you will get instruction and practice in these techniques during the riding phase of this course. Now, click the buttons below to review important considerations for slowing or stopping in a curve.

[INTERACTIVE]

Brakes: [2.9.3] [4.3.2] [4.3.3] [2.9.2] [2.9.4] Start by braking gently. Increase braking pressure as the bike straightens and the motorcycle slows. “Square” the handlebars to balance the motorcycle when you stop. Keep your head and eyes up.

Distance: [4.3.2] [4.3.3] [4.3.4] [2.9.3] The "straighten, then brake" method requires less distance to stop but may force you into the oncoming lane. The preferred method of braking gently while leaning, then squeezing progressively harder as the bike straightens may require more stopping distance but allows you to remain in your lane.

Path: [4.3.2] Remember: Straightening the bike, then braking in a straight line may mean leaving your lane. Don’t override your sight distance so you don’t face this decision!

4-16 | Swerving to Avoid a Collision: How-To | Priority 2

When it comes to avoiding hazards, swerving should be considered a last resort, as it leaves few other options. Your best bet is usually to slow down first, then swerve if you still need to. [4.4.1] Because swerving uses lots of cornering traction – it leaves you NO traction available for braking. Let’s watch an experienced rider demonstrate the four key steps to swerving.

[3.1.4] [4.4.2] As you approach a swerve, look toward your escape path, not at the hazard. Remember: target fixation can make you ride straight into a problem you’re trying to avoid. [4.4.4] As your motorcycle leans into the swerve, keep your body upright and let the motorcycle lean underneath you. [4.4.5] Maintain a steady throttle throughout and do not apply the brakes while swerving.

[4.4.3] [4.4.6] Press forward on the handgrip in the direction you want to swerve. Countersteer.

Press right to swerve right. Hold the pressure until your motorcycle has cleared the obstacle. Press the opposite handgrip to straighten your path. Avoid using your brakes until you have straightened the motorcycle. Once straight, you may continue, slow or stop as necessary.

Remember, slowing opens up time and space for a hazard to clear out. You may be able to swerve around a hazard if you don’t have enough space to stop safely or if traffic and roadway conditions make stopping or slowing dangerous. [4.4.7] Traction is limited. Do not brake while swerving, and do not swerve while braking. Attempting to do both at the same time increases your chances of a skid, loss of control and a crash.

4-17 | Swerving to Avoid a Collision: Practice | Priority 1

[4.4.2] Okay. You just watched a rider swerve to avoid a hazard. Remember the swerving sequence: One, look toward your escape path; two, press forward on the handgrip in the swerving direction – countersteer – and hold pressure; three, press the opposite handgrip to straighten your path.

[4.4.3] Look, press, press. That is, look to your escape route, press to lean, press to straighten. Just like it is to cornering, countersteering is critical to successful swerving. Remember: press forward on the handgrip in the direction you want to go. Press forward on the right handgrip: go right. Press forward on the left handgrip: go left.

Now, you try. Click on the handlebars below the image to simulate pressing forward on the handgrips to swerve. Watch how the bike responds. Like the earlier countersteering exercise, this activity is meant to demonstrate how the bike responds to pressing the handgrip. You will get instruction and practice countersteering and swerving during the riding phase of this course.

[INTERACTIVE]

[Press the mouse button to “press” the handlebar; the motorcycle leans in response.]

4-18 | Swerving to Avoid a Collision: What did the Rider Miss? | Priority 2

[3.2.4] While this rider may have successfully swerved away from a disastrous situation, the critical question after surviving a near disaster is, ‘What did I miss?’ To answer that question, let’s watch the video again. Notice that the truck could be a potential hazard, but because it did not begin to pull out, this rider moved on and started searching elsewhere for hazards. The critical clue that the rider missed was the huge blind spot the truck created behind it – big enough to hide the passenger car about to turn.

Active scanning means looking over, through, past and under other vehicles in order to gather

clues about approaching hazards. Any time your view is blocked by another vehicle, building, fence or other feature, it should ring a warning bell in your head. Learn to recognize the blind spots all around us and treat them as potential hazards.

4-19 | Final Activity – You Are the Rider | Priority 1

[3.2.4] [3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.2.1.4] [3.3.1] This chapter has addressed several of the more challenging situations riders face, including cornering, slowing and stopping in a straight line or on a curve and swerving to avoid collisions. As you did in Chapter 3, let’s see how well you manage these riding skills, keeping in mind that emergency situations that require stopping or swerving can often be avoided by maintaining good lane position and vigilant scanning.

This time as the rider you are navigating a more rural area out of town. The video will stop 10 times as you ride. At each stopping point, you will be asked to choose the best roadway position, identify the most important clue, hazard or consideration, make a prediction, identify an escape route, or decide on the best response to the situation. To get the best score, you will need to observe clues or hazards as accurately as possible, interpret them correctly and make the best decisions. Press ‘start’ to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: Upcoming blind right-hand corner on rural road. Q1: [3.2.1] [2.7.4] [3.3.3] [2.7.1] [2.7.1]What is the best roadway position in this situation? A: Left portion of lane. You are correct. The outside position allows you to see farthest through the turn. Keep your speed down and stay to the outside until you see the exit.

Scene 2: Upcoming hidden driveway on rural road. Q2: [3.2.1] [3.3.3] What is the most important clue in this situation? A: Hidden driveway or intersection ahead. You are correct. A car, truck or farm vehicle could pull out suddenly. [3.3.2] [3.4.3] Adjust position left for better visibility and approach with caution.

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] Scene 3: Slow-moving farm vehicle on rural road. Q3: If the rider intends to pass the farm vehicle, what should he or she predict will happen? A: Farm vehicle ahead will turn left. This is the safest and best prediction. A slow-moving vehicle on a rural road is often traveling only a short distance and will likely turn soon. Be patient!

[3.2.1] [3.1.3] Scene 4: Oncoming vehicle crossing centerline in upcoming right-hand corner on rural road. Q4: [3.3.6] Where is the best escape route in this situation? A: Right portion of lane. You are correct. Oncoming vehicles often crowd the centerline on tight, curving roads. [3.3.3] [3.3.4] Be prepared to change position quickly to increase your space cushion.

[3.2.1] [3.1.1] [3.2.2] Scene 5: Debris in rider’s path on rural road; oncoming vehicle. Q5: How should a motorcycle rider respond to this situation? A: [3.3.3] [3.3.4] Quickly swerve to the right, remain in lane. You are correct. Adjust your position quickly to avoid the hazard. Once past, consider adjusting position again for a better line of sight and increased following distance – prepare for more debris in the road.

Scene 6: [3.2.1] Upcoming blind left-hand corner on rural road; sign indicates intersection on left. Q6: What is the best roadway position in this situation? A: [2.7.4] [3.2.3] [3.3.2] [3.3.3] [2.7.1] Right portion of lane. You are correct. Using the right portion of the lane provides maximum visibility and sight distance for the upcoming left-hand intersection.

[3.2.3] [4.2.3] Scene 7: [3.2.1] Upcoming series of corners on rural road, advisory speed 20 mph. Q7: What is the most important consideration in this situation? A: Reduce speed and prepare for multiple tight turns. You are correct. Position yourself outside at the entrance to the first turn and scan ahead for the entrance to the next turn(s).

[3.1.3] Scene 8: [3.2.1] Vehicle at left waiting to pull onto rural road. Q8: What should a motorcyclist predict will happen next in this situation? A: Vehicle on left will pull into rider’s path. You are correct. While it is most likely that the driver will wait until the motorcycle passes, the rider should reduce speed and be ready to stop quickly.

[3.1.3] Scene 9: [3.2.1] Path blocked by oncoming vehicle overtaking another. Q9: What is the best escape route in this situation? A: [3.3.3] Move as far right as possible. You are correct. The road ahead is blocked by oncoming vehicles and you have limited time to maneuver. Slow quickly and move as far right as possible.

[3.1.1] [3.2.2] [4.2.3] Scene 10: [3.2.1] Small surface hazard in rider’s path in right-hand corner. Q10: How should the motorcycle rider respond to the debris ahead? A: [3.3.3] Slow, adjust lane position. You are correct. Small surface hazards don’t often require a dramatic response. Slow and shift your position to avoid the hazard.

4-20 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about cornering, braking and swerving by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review cornering, braking and swerving at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 5 | Riding in the Real World

5-1 Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn techniques for passing and adjusting to surface hazards and conditions of reduced traction and visibility. Riders will also learn proper techniques and cautions for riding in groups, carrying passengers and cargo and riding long distances.

5-2 | Riding in the Real World | Priority 2

Riding in the real world means responding to changes in the riding environment. Sometimes those changes are beyond our control — such as weather or daylight — and sometimes they are conditions we choose, like overtaking another vehicle – that is, passing – and riding with a group.

[3.3.5] Let’s look at some strategies for handling these common challenges, beginning with passing. A critical component in safe passing is your awareness of driveways and side roads where vehicles might turn into your path. Do not attempt to pass another vehicle, or even change lanes, if there is an intersection or driveway ahead.

[4.5.3] Think carefully – is the vehicle you intend to pass going slowly because it’s preparing to turn? Are you passing after determining that this is the safest move for you and other vehicles on the road? The key, as always, is to scan ahead and be sure of the situation before you overtake.

[INTERACTIVE]

[3.3.5] Q: The speaker is making the point that: Responding to changes in the riding environment is seldom possible. Riders do not get to choose their riding conditions. Awareness of intersections or driveways ahead is critical when passing. Riders can change lanes with an intersection ahead, but should not pass. A: Awareness of intersections or driveways ahead is critical when passing. You are correct.

5-3 | Passing in Action | Priority 1

[3.3.5] Watch the rider closely as he passes a vehicle in this video. Recognize that anytime you

are moving alongside another vehicle that you are passing through their blind spot. [4.5.4] Maintain your space cushion and control your speed to ensure a safe and smooth maneuver. Don’t linger where other drivers cannot see you.

Now, review the list of actions you should take when passing. Select thumbs up for the correct actions and thumbs down for the incorrect actions.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [3.1.2.5] [4.5.1] Check for traffic in your mirrors. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Make sure you look in your left and right mirrors – just like when you are driving a car.

Q2: [3.1.2.5] [4.5.1] Make a head check. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Make sure you turn your head and check your blind spot to see anything you might have missed when you looked in your mirrors.

Q3: [4.5.3] Check traffic ahead – 20 seconds or more. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! It is important to scan as far ahead as possible to eliminate surprises.

Q4: [3.4.1] [4.5.2] Signal well in advance so others know your intention. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Signaling is good communication. It helps you be seen and gives others a heads-up for what you plan to do.

Q5: [4.5.3] Make certain you have enough space to complete the pass. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Making sure you have enough space for the pass requires good judgment.

Q6: [4.5.3] Look for driveways and side roads where vehicles might turn into your path. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Driveways and side roads are critical clues – expect a vehicle to pull out into your path. When following a vehicle moving slowly, ask yourself: why is this driver moving so slowly? Is he about to turn into a driveway? Is he about to turn around?

Q7: [4.5.5] Cancel signal after changing lanes. A: Thumbs up. You are correct! Signaling is good communication. Forgetting to cancel your signal may communicate an unintended message to other drivers.

Q8: [4.5.1] Once you signal, assume that no other vehicle will attempt to pass you. A: Thumbs down. You are correct! While signaling is good communication, never assume anything. Confirm visually that you are not being overtaken before attempting to pass.

Q9: [4.5.3] Pass before cresting a hill to take advantage of the other vehicle’s slower uphill speed.

A: Thumbs down. You are correct! Passing before cresting a hill is never a good idea. You don’t know what is on the other side.

Q10: Stay even with the vehicle you are passing for two seconds to ensure you are seen. A: Thumbs down. You are correct! Staying even with a vehicle you are passing is not a good idea. Move quickly past the vehicle, signal when you have sufficient space cushion and move back into the lane.

5-4 | Passing Scenario | Priority 1

[3.3.5] In this scenario, watch the scene unfold of a motorcycle rider making a bad decision to pass a vehicle. After watching the video, respond to the multiple-choice question about mistakes the rider made. You can click the replay button to see the video again.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [4.5.3] This rider made a bad decision that is likely to end in disaster. What can you do as a rider to avoid falling into this same trap? Avoid passing more than one vehicle at a time. Scan well ahead for driveways and intersections. Be certain the vehicle ahead is not about to turn before attempting to pass. A: All of the above: You are correct! All of these considerations are critical to passing safely. Be patient and pass only when it is clearly safe to do so.

5-5 | Handling Surface Hazards and Reduced Traction Situations | Priority 3

[1.2.1.5] [3.1.1] [4.6.1] [3.2.2] There are endless challenges on the roadway which present themselves in the form of hazards and clues to potential hazards. Some, like railroad tracks, pot holes and uneven pavement, can upset your suspension and steering. [4.6.2] Others, like wet leaves, gravel and roadway crack sealant or “tar snakes” steal away needed traction. [4.6.4]

[3.1.4] [3.3.3] [4.6.3] [4.6.4] [2.5.3] By minimizing your lean angle and staying smooth on the controls you maximize your available traction. The critical skill in all these situations is establishing good lane positioning that allows you, the rider, to scan effectively and respond to these challenges. Maximize your situational awareness by keeping your eyes up and moving. Avoid target fixation. Beware the common beginner’s error of staring down at the road surface rather than looking up and around at the big picture!

[3.3.3] [3.4.2] As you approach surface hazards and reduced traction situations, make sure you SLOW DOWN. [4.6.3] There’s no point in rushing into trouble. Keep your eyes up and actively scanning: There may be other hazards. Stay relaxed. Rise off the seat over potholes or bumps to let your legs absorb any impact.

[3.3.4] With advance warning you’ll have time to slow, maintain your space cushion and maneuver around the problem. For gravel roads, recognize changes in the surface texture and slow before entering. [2.4.1] [2.5.2] Keep your head and eyes up. Ride in the vehicle tracks and minimize your lean angle in turns. Brake gently.

For uneven pavement or railroad tracks, recognizing the clues early allows you space to maneuver to cross at as close to a right angle as possible. An “edge trap” is a term riders use to describe a small ridge, parallel to your path of travel, where the road surface rises sharply. An edge of only a couple inches can “trap” your front tire and cause an immediate crash.

Identifying hazards on the road is a function of your ability to concentrate as you ride. In this matching game activity, use your concentration skills to match the name of a hazard with its image. When you find a match, read the explanation of the safest way to respond to the hazard.

[INTERACTIVE]

[4.6.1] [2.5.3] [3.2.2] Pot holes and large debris Try to avoid pot holes and large debris. They can cause you to lose control and/or crash. If you can’t avoid them, slow down and reduce your lean angle. Don’t stare at the hazard: Keep your eyes up.

[4.6.1] [4.6.2] [2.5.3] [3.2.2] Metal construction plates, utility covers, bridge decks Can be slippery when dry, very slippery when wet. Slow down and reduce your lean angle. Manage throttle carefully. Avoid hard acceleration or braking. Choose a path of travel through the hazard, then keep your eyes up.

[4.6.1] [2.5.3] [3.2.2] Edge traps Any ridge that runs parallel to your path of travel can be very dangerous. A shoulder dropoff is a good example of an edge trap. Avoid crossing if possible. If you must cross, adjust your approach angle closer to 90 degrees if possible. Don’t stare. Keep your eyes up.

[4.6.2] [3.2.2] Fuel spills, gravel, sand On slippery surfaces like these, your bike may slide out and crash without any warning, even at low speed. However, these hazards are easy to spot: Note changes in color or texture of the road surface. Your priority is to reduce your lean angle. Minimize accelerating or braking when crossing these surfaces.

[4.6.1] [2.5.3] [3.2.2] Railroad tracks You usually can’t avoid railroad crossings, which can be bumpy, slippery or contain an edge trap. Very slippery when wet. Slow down and reduce your lean angle. Adjust your approach angle closer to 90 degrees if possible. Minimize braking or accelerating. Don’t stare. Keep your eyes up.

[4.6.1] [3.2.2] Standing water Can hide other surface hazards like potholes and edge traps. At higher speed, hydroplaning (skimming across the top of the water) can cause you to lose control and crash instantly. Reduce speed and avoid.

[4.6.2] [3.2.2] Wet leaves, center oil strips Very slippery, they steal away needed traction. Avoid if possible, or slow down and reduce your lean angle. Avoid acceleration or braking. Be careful in areas where oil or coolant accumulates.

[4.6.2] [2.5.3] [3.2.2] Road markings, crack sealant (“tar snakes”) Road markings are quite slippery, even when dry. Very slippery when wet. Tar snakes are worst when wet or hot. Avoid if possible. Reduce your lean angle and use throttle carefully. Avoid turning, cornering, accelerating or braking. Choose a path of travel through the hazard, then keep your eyes up.

5-6 | Nighttime, Rain and Other Limited Visibility Conditions | Priority 1

[1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] When the sun goes down or visibility becomes limited by fog, rain or low-angle sunshine, you need to be prepared. [1.3.2] [4.7.2] [4.8.2] Squeaky-clean and unscratched eye protection is critical to reduce glare and give you the best vision. Use anti-fog products to help keep your vision clear. Always use un-tinted lenses or face shields in low-visibility conditions.

[4.7.4] [4.9.2] When visibility is limited, you need to reduce your speed and increase your scanning effort. [4.9.3] Sometimes the best choice is to not ride at all during limited-visibility conditions. In Chapter 1, you saw how much easier it was to identify riders wearing conspicuous riding gear.

[3.2.1] In this next activity, observe how much more difficult it can be to identify clues or hazards in limited visibility conditions. You will look at eight riding scenes. Click on the hazard in each scene. When you’re ready to identify the first, click ‘start’.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.1.2] Blinding sun; hidden vehicle waiting to pull onto suburban road.

Scene 2: [3.1.2] Good visibility; path blocked by oncoming vehicle overtaking another on rural road.

Scene 3: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] Visibility reduced by rain; wet steel plate in rider’s path in urban traffic.

Scene 4: [3.1.2] Good visibility; pedestrian and animal in rider’s path on urban street.

Scene 5: V[3.1.2] isibility reduced by darkness; pedestrian in urban street at right.

Scene 6: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] Good visibility; wet markings on roadway parallel to rider’s path.

Scene 7: [3.1.2] Visibility reduced by fog; hidden vehicle waiting to pull out or turn on urban street.

Scene 8: [3.1.2] Good visibility; pedestrians with vehicles on shoulder near multi-lane highway merge.

You did a nice job recognizing hazards in the riding environment. As you think about this exercise, note how things like adverse weather and poor lighting conditions can interfere with good scanning.

5-7 | Limited-Visibility Conditions: Story from the Road | Priority 1

[1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.7.2] [4.8.1] [4.9.1] Remember that if you’re having trouble seeing, so are the drivers that you share the road with. Let’s get one driver’s perspective:

[ACTOR PORTRAYAL] I was driving through the mountains one late spring afternoon – it was a beautiful day when I left. The sun was shining behind me – so that was causing a little bit of a problem with the glare in my mirrors, but it wasn’t too bad. Just before the mountain pass, the temperature dropped quickly. That wasn’t a big problem either since the road was fine, but fog was intense. I don’t think I could see 30 feet in front of me.

I decided to pull into a restaurant across the road – made the left turn and I swear that motorcycle rider appeared through the fog out of nowhere. Probably going 50 mph - I almost killed him – I never expected to see a motorcycle in those conditions, and I don’t think he expected to see me either.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: The motorcycle rider was in a difficult situation due to the fog in the mountains. The most important thing for a rider to remember in these conditions is: A: If you are having trouble seeing other vehicles, they’ll have trouble seeing you. Correct! This is the most important consideration in limited-visibility conditions.

5-8 | Limited-Visibility Conditions: What You Can Do | Priority 2

[1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [3.3.2] What, then, can you do to make yourself more visible or safer in limited- visibility situations?

In this activity, look at the list of possible actions a rider can take to be more visible or safe in limited-visibility conditions. Select the descriptions of actions that will help you be more visible or safer in limited-visibility situations. [4.9.3] And then remember the best choice for severe weather or limited visibility conditions may be to find a safe place to wait out the storm or even choose not to ride that day.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [4.7.1] [4.9.1] Wear bright and retro-reflective gear, and a hi-viz rain suit. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, high-viz riding gear will help others see you.

Q2: [3.3.3] [4.7.4] [4.8.4] [4.9.2] Reduce my speed. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, you should reduce your speed to allow more time to recognize and respond to hazards.

Q3: [3.3.3] [3.3.4] [4.7.4] [4.8.4] Increase my following distance to give myself more time to recognize and respond to hazards. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, you should maintain a greater following distance and space cushion whenever possible.

Q4: [4.7.5] [3.3.6] Use the headlights and taillights of other vehicles to reveal clues about my travel path, as well as hazards and potential escape routes. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, lights of other vehicles can help you spot clues. But remember, sometimes the best choice is to leave the bike parked.

Q5: [3.3.3] [4.8.5] [4.9.2] Ride at a speed that allows stopping or safely responding to hazards within the distance I can see in my headlight. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, your sight distance is much shorter than when visibility is good. Slow down!

Q6: [4.7.3] [4.8.3] Use my high beams as appropriate, making certain to dim for approaching drivers. A: Thumbs up. In limited-visibility situations, use your headlight as a tool to see and be seen.

Q7: Use sunglasses to avoid being blinded by headlights. A: [4.7.2] Thumbs down. This is not a good idea in a limited-visibility situation. Tinted glasses or face shields make it more difficult to see the roadway and roadside hazards.

Q8: Speed up to get past a hazardous situation quickly. A: [4.7.4] [4.8.4] [4.9.2] Thumbs down. This is not a good idea in a limited visibility situation. While you may want to get to your destination quickly, speeding up will significantly increase the chances of a crash.

Q9: Ride close to trucks and SUVs to block rain and wind. A: [3.3.2] [3.3.3] [4.7.4] [4.8.4] [4.9.2] Thumbs down. This is not a good idea in a limited visibility situation. While larger vehicles can provide protection from the elements, the rider will not be visible when he is too close. A sudden braking by the larger vehicle will almost certainly lead to a crash.

Q10: Hunch down to be less exposed to wind, rain or fog. A: Thumbs down. This is not a good idea in a limited-visibility situation. This limits your movement and ability to see. Wear good, waterproof riding gear and dress in layers to avoid being cold or wet.

Q11: Follow other vehicles closely to watch their tail lights. [3.1.4] [3.3.3] [3.3.4] [4.7.4] [4.8.4] [4.9.2] A: Thumbs down. This is not a good idea in a limited visibility situation. This leaves you less of a space cushion and you could easily target-fixate on other vehicles’ tail lights and miss important clues.

5-9 | Riding in a Crosswind | Priority 1

[1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.10.1] Strong winds and gusts are real concern for motorcycle riders. They can literally blow you off the road. [4.10.2] To control a motorcycle in a crosswind, press the handgrip to lean into the wind and hold your path. Be especially careful of bridges and freeway overpasses that expose you to the full force of the wind.

Beware of anything that blocks the wind momentarily, like road cuts or passing trucks. Increase your space cushion and be ready to maneuver quickly to counteract a sudden wind gust. [4.9.3] Again, sometimes your best strategy is to find a safe place to wait out bad weather.

5-10 | More Matching Clues/Hazards and Their Meanings | Priority 2

[1.2.1.5] [3.3.3] In this chapter, we have added to the list of clues or hazards you should be aware of in your vigilant effort to avoid dangerous riding situations. Let’s look at these clues and hazards now, as we did in Chapter 3, and interpret them. As you did in Chapter 3, match the clue or hazard with an explanation of its meaning or possible consequence.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: [4.6.1] [4.6.2] [3.2.2] A change in color or texture of the road could mean A: a slippery or hazardous road surface – reduce lean angle and avoid if possible.

Q2: [4.6.1] [3.2.2] Construction signs could mean A: rough roads, metal plates, edge traps, sand and gravel – slow down and reduce lean angle,

be ready to stop.

Q3: [4.6.2] [3.2.2] Snake-like lines on pavement could mean A: slippery crack sealant or "tar snakes" – avoid if possible, reduce lean angle and use throttle carefully.

Q4: [4.6.2] [3.2.2] Puddles, pools, or standing water could mean A: potholes, hidden edge traps, or hydroplaning – reduce speed and avoid if possible. The roadway will be very slippery at the first onset of rain.

Q5: [3.1.2] Tree branches in motion could mean A: strong winds – use pressure on handgrips to control path of travel and relax upper body.

Q6: [4.6.2] [3.2.2] Smell of diesel fuel could mean A: diesel spill on road. Often spilled in curves, diesel fuel is extremely slippery and difficult to spot. Note changes in surface color. Slow down and reduce lean angle.

Nice job matching clues and their meanings. Don’t forget, there is a button on your dashboard with information about many more hazards and the clues riders should learn to recognize.

5-11 | Mid-Chapter Quiz | Priority 1

[1.2.2] Okay. You’ve had some time to learn more about riding in the real world, and issues like passing and limited visibility, including observing how riders must think about each of these aspects of riding. Now, let’s test your growing knowledge with a short quiz.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Which of the following is NOT a necessary action when passing another vehicle: A: follow the vehicle closely for 20 seconds to ensure the driver sees you.

Q2: When approaching surface hazards like shiny spots, sand or gravel, the best strategy is to: A: avoid them, if possible, and reduce lean angle.

Q3: Target fixation means: [3.1.4] A: staring at a single hazard (such as the road surface) and as a result, missing other approaching clues.

Q4: If a rider is having difficulty seeing because of limited visibility conditions: he or she should slow down and consider stopping riding until the condition is improved. he or she should be wearing hi-viz riding gear. other vehicles on the road are probably having difficulty seeing the rider.

A: all of the above.

Q5: A concern in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun is low on the horizon is: visibility will be limited due to low angle sunshine.

5-12 | Carrying Passengers, Group Riding and Touring | Priority 1

[5.1.4] [5.1.5] We all dream about riding with friends or going on a club-sponsored ride – or maybe loading the bike and taking off cross-country. The most important thing you want to remember when you are riding with a group or carrying passengers or touring is to be certain that your solo riding skills are solid. These kinds of activities can challenge even experienced riders.

“I can remember the first time I ever rode in a group. It was way too soon for me – I had only just gotten my license – but my friends were all going riding and promised it’d be fun. It started out okay, but I got stressed right away. These guys were better riders than I was and they just took off, going much faster than I was comfortable with and totally leaving me behind in the corners. I’d try to catch up in the straightaways, but I was afraid I’d get a ticket.”

[6.3.1] [1.2.1.3] “Being distracted by going so fast and worrying about getting pulled over made me miss some obvious clues, like a sharp corner that “snuck up on me” (I missed the yellow advisory sign) and a tractor that pulled out of a farm field right in front of me. Eventually, I completely lost sight of the group and was about to call it quits, when I spotted another rider waiting for me.”

“Yeah, we felt bad that you got so far behind. I stopped and waited at that turn for you, otherwise you never would have found us.”

“When we finally caught up at the lunch stop, I told everybody I wasn’t ready to ride that fast and had to go home instead. Of course, they didn’t want me to get left out, so they promised to slow down and give me a chance to keep up. They also promised to wait for me at every turn – as long as I promised to “ride my own ride,” and not feel pressured to keep up. ‘Just have fun, and we’ll wait for you,’ they said. I felt much better afterwards and had a great afternoon of riding – at a nice, leisurely pace with my friends.”

Riders are killed and injured every year due to simple mistakes made while riding in a group, such as following too closely or trying to keep up with faster riders. What people don’t realize about group riding is the demand or strain on each rider to keep track of a dozen other riders, whether you are on a canyon road, in farm country or urban traffic. [1.2.1.1] You’ve got to have the mental bandwidth to manage these additional tasks while riding safely and searching for clues to hazards.

5-13 | Managing the Herd | Priority 2

[5.1.1] The fun of riding with a group can vaporize in a heartbeat when someone makes a mistake. Your ability to ride in a sensible and safe formation could make all the difference in preventing a crash when riding in a group. Keep these rules for riding formation in mind: Don’t ride side-by-side. Or too close together in a big pack. Riders are at the mercy of the skills and attentiveness of the riders around you.

Give each other the safety margin you need. Ride in staggered formation with large gaps between each pod of four bikes. This allows other vehicles to merge in and out safely. Shift to single file for corners. [3.3.4] This allows you to use your whole lane and keep a good space cushion. [3.3.5] When passing another vehicle on a two-lane road, pass one at a time – not as a group.

In this learning activity, consider issues related to group riding on the left and drag them to the best match on the right.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Clarify route and destination. A: [1.2.1.3] Confirm riding plan to minimize confusion or distraction as riders race to keep up.

Q2: Be responsible for the rider behind you A: At route changes and turns, stop and wait for the following rider before continuing.

Q3: [5.1.2] Beware of target fixation. A: Don’t stare at the riders in front of you. Scan extra hard. Keep track of the road ahead first and the riders around you second.

Q4: [5.1.2] Look PAST riders in front of you. A: This will help you avoid following others into a bad line or crash. Be wary of riders behind that could crash into you.

Q5: [5.1.3] Use hand signals when necessary to communicate with other riders. A: Learn the group’s hand signals in advance. To download a sheet of common hand signals, click here.

5-14 | Peer Pressure and Group Riding | Priority 2

[5.1.4] [6.3.1] No matter what your age, whether you’re male or female, cool or not cool, it is easy to get into a situation where peer pressure can push the most level-headed riders beyond their personal safety zone. Make no mistake; on a group ride the desire to keep up, fit in and be

accepted can easily overcome good riding judgment. Don’t let peer pressure push you past your personal limits.

[1.2.2] [6.2.6] [6.1.1] Now’s the time to show your biker independence! Remember that you don’t have to be impaired by alcohol or drugs or even acting foolish to get hurt or killed by a rider who is. Never hesitate to abandon a group ride that’s making you uncomfortable.

[1.2.2] [5.15] Stay away from group rides until your mind, your body and your bike are all in sync. Riding with even the best-managed group adds another level of complexity and danger for you. You should be comfortable riding solo with your eyes up, responding smoothly and safely to the hazards, before you think about riding with a group.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: Click on the true statement: A: [1.2.2] If you are feeling uncomfortable riding with a group for any reason, break away from the group and continue your ride alone, if necessary. You are correct. Because of the overriding importance of safety and its impact on others, riders should not ride in groups when they are uncomfortable.

5-15 | Riding Long Distances | Priority 2

[5.3.1] [6.3.2] There’s a time-honored tradition of long-distance touring by motorcycle. But long- distance rides require lots of mental and physical stamina, as well as preparation. You’ll have to deal with heat, cold, rain, wind, physical and mental fatigue and “highway hypnosis” – sometimes all in the same day. You’ll be riding in unfamiliar environments with unique local dangers – like moss on shaded Oregon back roads. You should expect to pass through areas where cell phone coverage is limited and emergency medical facilities are few.

[5.3.3] The key to riding long distances successfully is planning. Know where you’re going and what the hazards are. Plan breaks as well as destinations so you can stay refreshed. Take time to get off the bike at regular intervals – not just gas stops – and loosen up. Stay fed and hydrated and you’ll be more alert and ready to respond to challenges.

[5.3.2] You’ll need clothing and foul weather gear to adjust for all the conditions you expect to meet – and those you did not expect – during the trip. You should also take along enough tools to perform basic maintenance and repairs.

[5.3.4] Riding long distance is a dream for many riders but don't jump right into it. Begin with shorter trips and build yourself up to longer distances over the course of numerous rides.

Now, click on any of these video segments to review important considerations that could impact your ability to scan effectively for and respond to clues and hazards when riding long distances.

5-16 | Carrying Passengers and Luggage – How Much Can I Carry? | Priority 1

[5.3.2] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] It’s a lot of fun taking friends for a ride, but there are some important considerations before you carry anything on your motorcycle, especially another person. [5.2.4] The added weight and the distraction of carrying a passenger will demand a lot from your skills, and mistakes cost you double. Be certain you’re ready for this responsibility.

[5.2.1] When you decide to haul something on your motorcycle besides yourself, first check the owner’s manual for your motorcycle’s maximum weight capacity. [5.2.2] The added weight means you may need to adjust the suspension settings and tire pressure. Check your owner’s manual for those details.

[5.2.5] Camping or touring by motorcycle means packing light and packing right. Three things to remember when packing cargo on a motorcycle: Keep the weight low, centered and secure. Be certain the load is evenly balanced and use stretchable bungee nets or straps for a secure load. Use luggage and straps designed for motorcycle use.

Now imagine you are going on a road trip and it is time to load your motorcycle. Drag appropriate gear items on the left to an appropriate storage spot on the motorcycle.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q1: Clothing and Personal Items A: This is a very good item to carry! A rider needs layers of clothing in case the weather changes suddenly! Spare clothes and items like cell phones, sunglasses, medications, etc. should be kept within easy reach. Remember to pack these items so they’ll stay dry.

Q2: Rain Suit A: Bring this along! Even fair-weather riders get caught in the rain once in a while. You’ll want to keep your rain suit somewhere that’s easy to reach quickly. Don’t forget waterproof glove and boot covers!

Q3: Tire Repair Kit A: It’s always smart to carry a tire repair kit! Since motorcycles don’t carry spare tires, you’ll want to be able to fix a flat yourself to avoid being stranded. Heavier items like tools should be stored down low and as far forward as possible.

Q4: First Aid Kit A: This is a wise decision! A simple first-aid kit is inexpensive and helpful for treating minor abrasions, stings and burns. Lightweight items can be stored higher up on the motorcycle and within easy reach.

Q5: Tool Box A: Incorrect – this is not a good choice. A full-size tool box is heavy and difficult to pack into luggage or secure to a motorcycle. A better option is a small tool kit with just the essentials.

Q6: Cooler A: Incorrect - you don't want to bring this along. A large cooler filled with ice, food, and drinks can be heavy and difficult to secure to the bike. A smarter idea is to carry smaller items that can be tucked away into small spaces and do not need to be kept cool.

Q7: Spare Tire A: Incorrect – this is not a good choice. Carrying a spare is not practical on a motorcycle. It’s heavy and difficult to secure. Experienced riders carry a tire-repair kit and small air pump or compressor – and they know how to use it.

Q8: Gas Can A: Incorrect – this is not a good choice. While no one wants to run out of gas in the middle of nowhere, carrying a gas can is not a good solution. Riders should know how many miles their bike can go on a tank of gas – use the Trip Meter as a ‘gas gauge’ to know when to fill up.

Q9: Small Tool Kit A: This is a good choice! It’s easier to make your own repairs on the road than risk being stranded. Heavier items like tools should be stored down low and as far forward as possible.

Q10: Food/Fluids/Snacks A: Bring snacks! Staying fed and hydrated is critical to good concentration. Heavier items like liquids should be stored down low but easy to reach. Healthy snacks are small and easy to pack just about anywhere.

5-17 | Carrying Passengers – Mounting | Priority 2

[1.3.1] [1.3.2] [1.3.4] [1.3.5] [1.3.6] [1.3.7] I can’t believe my nephew is finally big enough to go on a motorcycle ride. Has he ever been on a bike before? What do I tell him? How do keep him safe? I got news for you, bud: you’re not going for a ride with me dressed like that. Now that’s better. All the gear all the time. You ready to ride? Good.

[5.2.3] [2.2.1] [2.3.2] Now, I’m responsible for your safety, so you have to listen to what I have to tell you. We’ll practice getting on and off the bike once, then we can go for a ride. Deal? Good. Here’s how it’s going to go. I’m going to get on the bike first and get my feet planted. I’ll leave the sidestand down, just in case. I’ll squeeze the front brake, then give you the OK.

Once I’m ready, you can climb on – just like mounting a horse. Watch out for the exhaust pipe on the other side – it’s still hot. [5.2.3] To dismount, we just do it in reverse. Remember, wait

©2014 TEAM OREGON Motorcycle Safety Program. Do not distribute or reproduce without permission. until I’ve got my feet planted, sidestand down and I’m holding the front brake. I’ll tell you when I’m ready. Easy, right?

Now, just a couple more things. While we’re on the bike, sit still. Keep your feet on the footpegs at all times. Hold onto my waist, right here. Lean with me, when I lean, and look over my shoulder in the direction we’re turning. Sound good? Good. If you need to get my attention, just pat me quickly on the back and I’ll pull over so we can talk. Ready to go? Good. Let’s ride.

5-18 | Carrying Passengers - Additional Considerations | Priority 2

[2.11.1] [5.2.4] Adding the weight of a passenger and/or cargo will challenge your strength and balance, especially at low speed. You’ll also find the added weight can extend stopping distance and makes the bike accelerate and steer more slowly. Try test rides in a parking lot to learn how the extra weight affects acceleration, stopping and cornering clearance.

[6.3.1] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.2] Make sure you’re willing to divide your attention between operating smoothly, watching for clues, responding to hazards – and managing the motorcycle with a second person aboard – before taking on a passenger. [5.2.6] The extra weight of a passenger can be distracting and make your motorcycle feel like a completely different machine.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: The main point that the speaker is making is that: A: [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] Adding a passenger or cargo to your motorcycle can impact your focus while riding and how the motorcycle handles. This is the correct answer. Riding with a passenger can affect low-speed balance, acceleration, steering, stopping, and attention.

Q: [5.2.4] Carrying a passenger can affect your ability to steer the motorcycle. A: True. Correct. A passenger who shifts weight or leans away from you in turns can make it difficult or even impossible to steer the motorcycle. When you decide you are ready to carry a passenger, coach them to lean with you as you ride.

5-19 | Final Activity – You Are the Rider | Priority 1

[3.2.1.1] [3.2.1.2] [3.2.1.3] [2.5.3] [3.2.1.4] This chapter has been about a number of challenges that riders face in everyday situations. Let’s see how you do in demonstrating your lane positioning and observation of hazards and clues in group riding and other situations. As you did at the end of Chapters 3 and 4, you are again the rider.

The video will stop 10 times. Again, you will be asked to choose the best roadway position, identify the most important clue, hazard or consideration, make a prediction, identify an escape

route, or decide on the best response to the situation. To get the best score, you will need to observe clues or hazards as accurately as possible, interpret them correctly and make the best decisions. Press ‘start’ to begin.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [3.3.1] [3.3.3] [6.3.1] [3.2.1] [1.2.1.3] Rider distracted by passenger while approaching a right-hand corner on rural road. Q1: What is the best roadway position in this situation? A: [2.7.4] [2.7.1] Left portion of lane. You are correct. Be careful not to let passengers distract you from important clues – did you note the advisory speed for the upcoming corner?

Scene 2: [3.1.3] [3.2.4] [3.3.3] [3.3.5] [3.2.1] Group ride passing a slow-moving vehicle as a group on a straight, rural road. Q2: Which of these is the most important consideration here? A: Group should pass one at a time instead. You are correct. An oncoming vehicle could pose a serious hazard to riders caught out in the oncoming lane when trying to pass as a group.

Scene 3: [3.2.4] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] [3.3.5] [3.2.1] Group ride on urban freeway approaching a merging area at right. Q3: What should a motorcyclist predict will happen in this situation? A: [3.3.4] Vehicle from right will merge into group. You are correct. Be prepared to adjust following distance or roadway position as needed to allow traffic to merge smoothly. Note that the vehicle sitting in your blind spot may prevent you from changing lanes if needed.

Scene 4: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] [3.3.1] [3.3.3] 4.2.3] [3.2.1] [2.5.3] Debris spill in rider’s path in right-hand curve on rural road. Q4: How should a motorcycle rider approach this surface hazard? A: Reduce speed and reduce lean angle before crossing the hazard. You are correct. Once you have chosen your path across the surface hazard, [2.4.1] keep your head and eyes up, looking well ahead.

Scene 5: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] [3.3.3] [3.2.1] Rider on wet urban roadway approaching railroad tracks parallel to path. Q5: How should a motorcycle rider respond to this situation? A: Adjust path of travel before crossing. You are correct. Try to approach railroad tracks at as close to a 90-degree angle as possible. Reduce speed and lean angle, and use the throttle smoothly while crossing.

Scene 6: Group ride approaching a sharp corner. Q6: What is the best riding formation in this situation? A: Single-file. [5.1.1] [2.7.1] [3.2.1] You are correct. You should break formation and ride single file to allow each rider to position him or herself properly for the upcoming turn(s).

Scene 7: [3.3.1] [3.2.1] Rider blinded by sun glare in urban traffic. Q7: What is the most important hazard in this situation? A: Drivers behind you blinded by sun glare. You are correct. If you are having trouble seeing into the low-angle sunshine, so are the drivers behind you. If a hazard should suddenly appear ahead, be ready to use your escape route to avoid a collision from the rear. Avoid routes that require you to ride directly into (or away from) the rising or setting sun.

Scene 8: [3.1.1] [3.2.2] [3.3.3] [4.2.3] [3.2.1] [2.5.3] Rider approaching wet roadway markings in urban left-hand curve. Q8: What should a motorcyclist predict will happen next in this situation? A: Tires may lose traction over painted lines. This is a good prediction. Reduce speed and lean angle when crossing slippery roadway markings. Once decide your path of travel, [2.4.1] keep your head and eyes up and look through the turn.

Scene 9: [3.3.1] [3.1.3] [3.2.1] Group ride stopped close together in traffic; rider’s escape routes blocked. Q9: Where is the best escape route in this situation? A: [3.3.6] [5.1.1] [5.1.2] There is no escape route. You are correct. Stopping side-by-side in a tight formation leaves no escape from hazards to the rear. [3.3.4] You should always have a space cushion in front of you and an escape route, even when stopped.

Scene 10: [3.3.1] [4.2.3] [3.2.1] Rider entering right-hand corner on rural road. Q10: You are traveling about 20 mph in a 20 mph corner but are afraid you are about to run wide. What should you do? A: Lean more and look through the turn. Correct! Your speed is reasonable for this turn. Turn your head more, lean the bike more, and finish that turn!

5-20 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about everyday riding situations by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you can move on to the next chapter or go back and review everyday riding situations at any time. Good luck!

[Quiz]

Chapter 6 | Ready to Ride

6-1 Introduction | Priority 1

Objective: Riders will learn the requirements to ride legally in Oregon, what it means to be ready

to ride and the factors that adversely affect rider performance. Riders will also learn the effects of impairments such as distraction, emotion, fatigue, alcohol and other drugs on riding.

6-2 | Ready to Ride Checklist | Priority 2

Are we ready to ride? Not just yet – there are a few more things to discuss before you hit the road. [1.1.1] [1.2.3] Every rider should know and follow state laws and equipment requirements. To ride in Oregon you are required to have a valid driver’s license, motorcycle endorsement or permit, and current registration and insurance.

The penalty for riding without an endorsement or permit can be as much as seven hundred twenty dollars plus court costs. All riders and passengers are also required to wear a DOT- compliant helmet. A list of additional requirements for passengers, vehicle equipment and other laws will be available on your dashboard when you complete this module.

[1.2.3] [1.3.6] [1.3.7] Refer to your owner’s manual to perform a basic check of your tires, lights, horn, controls, final drive, fluids and leaks. Being ready to ride also means being properly dressed. Commit to wearing “all the gear all the time.” Another way to say it is: If it’s too hot to wear the gear, it’s too hot to ride.

[1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.1.4] [1.2.2] Remember: it’s not like driving a car. You have to think like a motorcyclist. Riding is physically and mentally demanding. Select a bike that is a good match for your physical size and your skill level. Be certain you are in good enough condition to physically control a heavy machine while remaining alert and attentive to your riding environment. Ride only when you are feeling well rested and nourished.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: [1.1.1] It is illegal to ride a motorcycle in Oregon without a motorcycle endorsement or permit. A: True. Correct. Riders without an endorsement are a hazard to themselves. One-fourth of all riders killed in motorcycle crashes in Oregon were riding without an endorsement or permit.

Q: [1.1.1] To be in compliance with state law, all riders must: A: Wear a DOT-compliant helmet. Correct. Oregon’s helmet law applies to both riders and passengers. Oregon law also requires daytime headlight use.

Q: [1.1.1] It is legal to ride a motorcycle in Oregon without insurance. A: False. Correct. You must have liability insurance to ride legally in Oregon. Note that most motorcycle policies do not include personal injury protection unless you request it.

[SUPPLEMENT – DASHBOARD RESOURCE]

Motorcycle Laws

MOTORCYCLE RIDERS

All motorcycle operators must:

● have a valid motorcycle-endorsed driver license or have a valid motorcycle instruction permit. ● wear a motorcycle helmet that is DOT-compliant. ● register their motorcycle and display a valid license plate. ● have liability insurance (25/50/20). ● carry their endorsed driver license or motorcycle instruction permit and driver license and current proof of insurance when riding.

Motorcycle operators riding on a motorcycle instruction permit must also:

● be supervised by an endorsed rider 21 or older operating a separate motorcycle. ● ride only during daylight hours. ● not carry passengers.

The penalty for riding without a motorcycle endorsement can be as much as $720 plus court costs. Learn about how to earn a motorcycle endorsement in Oregon.

MOTORCYCLE EQUIPMENT

To be street legal, a motorcycle or moped must have:

● a white headlight, illuminated at all times. Motorcycles must have at least one, but not more than three, white headlights. Modulating headlights are allowed during daylight hours. ● at least one red taillight with a red stop lamp. ● at least one red reflector on the rear, one white license plate light, one rear-view mirror and a horn. ● turn signal lights. Motorcycles built before 1973 are not required to have turn signal lights, however, vehicles without turn signal lights may not be operated after dark. ● fenders on all wheels. ● at least one brake operated by hand or foot. ● an exhaust system in good working order and in constant operation. The exhaust must prevent the discharge of any visible emissions and keep noise levels at or below standards set by the Department of Environmental Quality. ● a valid license plate mounted to be easily read and plainly visible from the rear.

MOTORCYCLE LAWS

A motorcycle may share a lane only with one other motorcycle. Lane sharing (lane splitting/filtering) with any other vehicle is illegal.

Operators may not transport or carry any object that interferes with their ability to hold the handlebars.

If a motorcycle operator carries a passenger, the motorcycle must have a passenger seat and footrests. Passengers are only permitted to ride on a passenger seat behind the operator or in a side car. Passengers are required to wear DOT-compliant motorcycle helmets.

There are no requirements for passenger age or size in Oregon. However, operators should use good judgment. Passengers should be large enough to reach the footrests, strong enough to hold on securely and mature enough to follow directions and behave predictably.

Get Your Endorsement To ride legally in Oregon, you must have a valid driver license and motorcycle endorsement or instruction permit.

MOPEDS

All moped operators must:

● have a valid driver license or moped-restricted class C license. ● wear a motorcycle helmet that is DOT-compliant. ● register their moped and display a valid license plate. ● carry liability insurance (25/50/20). ● carry their driver license and current proof of insurance when riding. ● not carry passengers.

Mopeds have the same equipment requirements as motorcycles. Moped operators are generally required to follow the same laws as those for motorcycle operators unless noted otherwise.

To be classified and registered as a moped, the vehicle cannot be capable of speeds of more than 30 mph on level ground, and if the power source is a combustion engine, the engine must be 50 cc or less.

Moped operators are not required to have a motorcycle endorsement. However, moped operators must have a valid class C or higher driver’s license.

“Scooter” is an informal term generally used to describe a small motorcycle with a step-through design, usually with an automatic transmission. A scooter can be a motorcycle or a moped, depending on its engine size and speed capability as noted above.

For more information about operating motorcycles and mopeds in Oregon, refer to Oregon Driver and Motor Vehicle Services (DMV) or the Oregon Motorcycle & Moped Manual.

For additional information about operating motorcycles, scooters and mopeds in Portland, refer to the Portland Bureau of Transportation (BOT) Motorcycles FAQ.

The information presented on this page is intended for educational uses only. It is not to be used as legal advice. For additional clarification, consult Oregon Revised Statutes or a law enforcement representative.

6-3 | Distractions and Other Impairments – Demonstrating the Problem | Priority 2

[1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] [6.1.2] [6.3.1] [6.3.2] [6.3.3] [1.2.2] What sorts of things can interfere with a good ride? Alcohol and drugs, of course, but are you aware that distraction and inattention are forms of impairment? Using electronic devices, carrying a passenger or riding with a group all require mental effort – bandwidth that is already divided between operating your motorcycle and searching for hazards. Recognize that every additional task demands more from your ability to divide your attention, and choose carefully to minimize your distractions.

Let’s see what it means to be distracted when you are riding. These next sets of photos will begin with a moment in a day – such as getting exercise or heading out after work – that may have a positive or negative impact on the rider’s ability to identify clues or hazards as they ride. You will then see a roadway image in which you, the rider, must click on a clue or hazard. The image may be impacted though by the distraction or other impairment the rider has experienced.

[INTERACTIVE]

Scene 1: [1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] Rider distracted by personal conflict; vehicle waiting to pull out or turn on urban street.

Scene 2: Animal approaching rural roadway.

Scene 3: [1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] [6.1.2] [6.1.3] Alcohol-impaired rider; vehicle in breakdown lane on rural freeway.

Scene 4: Pedestrians stepping into roadway.

Scene 5: [1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] Rider distracted by group ride; driver exiting vehicle onto roadway.

Scene 6: Railroad crossing in curve.

[1.2.2] It’s not difficult to see that a rested, healthy rider will have an easier time scanning ahead and detecting potential problems. Are you willing to miss important clues or hazards because you were distracted or impaired when riding your motorcycle? We can’t avoid the distractions of

everyday life, but we can take steps to ensure we are focused, present in the moment and ready to ride.

6-4 | Distractions and Other Impairments – The Laundry List | Priority 3

[1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.2] The key to managing the risk of riding is taking control of the factors that affect your performance and safety. Be aware of potential distractions. Keep tabs on your own mental and physical readiness and ride accordingly. Some days the weather is bad, some days we’re just not as “on,” whether we choose to be that way or not. Those are good days to slow down or leave the bike parked. Enjoy the ride. Don’t endure it.

Good riders concentrate. They focus on riding, put distractions out of their mind, and work hard at scanning ahead and identifying hazards. Let’s see how well you can concentrate as you match a distraction or impairment – or a remedy – with its cause or effect. As you did in Chapter 5, use your concentration skills in this matching game activity to find causes of riding distractions and some solutions. When you find a match, read the additional information about its impact on your ability to ride.

[INTERACTIVE]

Hot or cold weather [1.2.1.5] [5.3.1] [6.3.6] [1.2.2] Riding in intense heat or cold can lead to wind chill or dehydration. Take careful note of a powerful thirst or numb hands or feet. Drink plenty of water and eat healthy snacks for maximum energy and alertness. Dress in layers and consider heated clothing for cold-weather riding.

Long miles in a single day [5.3.1] [6.3.2] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] Long miles in a single day can cause fatigue and drowsiness, and beat down your ability to stay focused. Even on your best day, your concentration wanes as the day wears on. If you are feeling droopy, that’s your body telling you it’s time to take a break or quit for the day.

Highly charged emotions (good or bad) [1.2.1.1] [6.3.3] [6.3.4] Having a bad day, or a good day? If your emotions are highly charged, you may make bad decisions. It's not a good time to ride. If you are feeling bold or overconfident, you may start riding faster and more aggressively than normal. Check your mental pulse and calm down, slow down or take a break. On the other hand, if you are nervous, or feeling especially ‘un-confident,’ recognize the clues and leave the bike in the garage.

Temporary health problems [6.3.5] [1.2.1.2] Temporary health problems like nagging injuries, aches, and pains can steal your attention and slow your reactions. If an injury or ailment limits your ability to perform ordinary tasks, that’s your clue that you probably shouldn’t be riding.

20-minute power nap [5.3.3] [6.3.2] [1.2.1.2] Whether it’s a long day of riding or just an afternoon lull, take note of the clues that you’re tired and get off the bike. Sometimes a 20-minute “power-nap” will make you good as new.

Stop to take a walk [5.3.3] [6.3.2] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] If your hands, feet or butt fall asleep while riding, that’s your body telling you to take a break. Getting off the bike and walking around for a few minutes refreshes your brain and helps loosen stiff muscles. Do a few stretches or jumping jacks to get your blood flowing again. Drink plenty of water and eat healthy snacks for maximum energy and alertness.

Severe heat or cold weather [1.2.1.5] [5.3.1] [6.3.6] [1.2.2] At the extreme, severe heat or cold weather can cause life- threatening conditions such as hypothermia or heatstroke. Both come on slowly and severely impair your judgment and reflexes. You may have ignored earlier clues of dehydration and wind chill such as being overly thirsty, light headed or numb. What’s worse, you probably won’t even realize it’s happening until too late.

Heavy meal [5.3.3] [6.3.2] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] Eat light, healthy meals when you’re riding. A heavy lunch can affect your ability to stay focused. If you’re feeling especially full, you may get a little sleepy. Pull off the road and find a nice spot for a quick power nap.

6-5 | Alcohol and Drugs – Getting the Facts | Priority 3

[1.2.1] [1.2.1.1] [1.2.1.3] We already know that riding a motorcycle requires far more mental and physical skill than driving a car, and motorcycles provide no protection in a crash. Dividing attention between operating the bike and watching for hazards is challenging in itself. If you let unnecessary distractions, or self-inflicted impairments like drinking or drugs creep into your riding, you’re wasting a huge opportunity to manage your risks.

[6.1.1] [6.1.2] [6.1.3] Alcohol and drugs interfere with every single tool you need to manage a risk on a motorcycle: dividing attention, scanning, perception, judgment, decision making, physical coordination and reaction time. Drugs don’t need to be illegal like marijuana or narcotics to interfere with your riding: prescription painkillers like Vicodin or codeine, sleep aids or anxiety medications like Xanax or Ativan can wipe you out just as easily. [Superscript: OxyContin, Vicodin, Xanax, Ativan, Ritalyn, Adderall] Even over-the-counter drugs like cough syrups, cold remedies or allergy medications can dull your senses and cause a crash.

Remember, riding a motorcycle is different from driving a car. You have to think like a motorcyclist, and be wary of anything that could impair your ability to ride safely.

[INTERACTIVE]

Choose which statements are true by selecting either thumbs up or thumbs down.

Q1: [6.1.1] Alcohol and drugs contribute to one third or more of motorcycle fatalities. A: Thumbs up. You are correct. In addition, did you know that the effects of alcohol begin to show at .025 BAC? That’s about one drink for most people. If you’re not riding, you might never even notice you are impaired. But your motorcycle skills will start to suffer immediately.

Q2: [6.2.1] It is legal to ride under the influence of alcohol as long as you are below the legal limit. A: Thumbs down. You are correct. It is illegal to operate any vehicle while under the influence of drugs or alcohol. The consequences, if you survive the experience, are thousands of dollars in fines, attorney’s fees and increased insurance rates, not to mention the loss of your license and even jail time. At worst, it may be that you’ve taken your last ride.

Q3: [6.1.3] Even small amounts of alcohol and many other drugs cost you the ability to make smart decisions and recognize clues. A: Thumbs up. You are correct. In addition, even if you are below the legal limit of.08 BAC, you can still be arrested and charged with DUII if you show any signs of impairment.

Q4: Legal medications prescribed by doctors cannot impair your ability to make smart decisions and recognize clues. A: Thumbs down. You are correct. Any medication, especially when combined with alcohol or other over-the-counter drugs, can seriously impede your ability to make smart decisions and recognize clues when riding. Legal drugs often come with a warning ‘DO NOT OPERATE HEAVY MACHINERY.’ Is a motorcycle a heavy machine?

Q5: [6.1.4] [6.1.5] Combining alcohol with drugs can amplify – or mask – the effects of both. A: Thumbs up. You are correct. Mixing alcohol with medications can have unexpected and dramatic effects on your ability to function. If you are taking any medications, do not combine them with alcohol.

Q6: [6.2.3] [6.2.4] [6.2.2] [6.2.7] Drinking water or coffee can help you sober up faster if you’ve had too much to drink. A: Thumbs down. You are correct. Time is the primary factor for sobering up, and that time varies depending on your physical condition and type of impairment. The airplane pilot’s rule of ‘12 hours from bottle to throttle’ is a good one.

Q7: [6.2.5] Riders should step in when another rider is in danger of becoming impaired. A: Thumbs up. You are correct. When other riders are at risk, act early. Remind them that impaired riders are not welcome in the group. Get friends to help intervene before there’s a problem. If the rider is already impaired, arrange a safe ride home and secure the bike for them.

6-6 | Alcohol and Drugs – The Rider’s Perspective | Priority 3

[1.2.1.3] [6.1.4] [6.1.5] [6.2.1] [6.2.2] Riding a motorcycle means many of the things you’ve been able to do – or thought you were able to do – are off-limits. I’m talking about drinking, and I’m talking about drugs. If drinking alcohol, or smoking pot, or using other drugs is part of your lifestyle, that’s your decision. But if you’re going to ride a motorcycle, you need to make a commitment now to separate those things from your riding.

Let me show you what I mean. You paid good money for your riding gear and that beautiful bike, right? You learn to ride a motorcycle and you build all these skills to stay safe, right? You can divide your attention between the bike and the road. You scan ahead and look for hazards.

You recognize clues to developing situations and predict what could happen. You respond to your environment by making good decisions. This is a good hand. With these, you stand a pretty good chance of survival. The problem with drinking and drugs is that they take away this advantage. So if you’re going to choose that route, ask yourself: Which skills am I willing to give up?

Want to have a drink? That’s like planning to ride without this. Second drink? Now which skill do you want to give up? Still drinking? Let’s have another. This goes on and on. Before you know it, you’ve got nothing left. Let’s look at some examples.

[ACTOR PORTRAYAL] “I had a couple of hits after work like I always do. But then I decided to take my bike to my girlfriend’s. It never even occurred to me that I shouldn’t be riding. I felt totally normal. Well, my motorcycle brain wasn’t ready to ride and I completely missed this car about to turn. Before I knew it I was airborne, and my brand new bike crumpled into the side of this car that I should have seen a mile away.”

[ACTOR PORTRAYAL] “I stopped after work with a couple coworkers. I had one beer. I can have one and still drive okay. Problem is, I was on the motorcycle. It was still rush hour when I left. Coming up on a green light, there was a line of cars in the right lane, but the left lane was open. Normally I would have expected someone to jump out, but my brain didn’t flip that switch. Sure enough, a car jumped out.

I never saw it coming. I was only going about 10 miles an hour, but I overreacted, grabbed the brakes and went right down. I shattered my mirror, windshield, broke my handlebar, bashed the tank, destroyed the plastic. I had saved my money for a year, I took such good care of that bike … now look at it. ‘Hey, look at the rookie!’ I never even hit the car.”

[ACTOR PORTRAYAL]

“There’s a half a dozen of us that ride together. This one guy, neighborhood guy, always asked to come along. He was all right, but he’d drink beer along the way – sometimes even these big 22s. None of us drank on the rides. But he always wanted to tag along.”

“One time, we had to slow down along this beach area, people crossing the road. I was keeping one eye on him in the mirror and WHAM! He actually ran into me from behind. He fell over. Didn’t knock me down, but by then I’d had enough. I stopped, got off my bike and yelled at him. ‘WHAT ARE YOU DOING? GET OUT OF HERE!’”

“We helped him pick up his bike, and left him there on the side of the road. We don’t let him ride with us anymore. I feel bad for the guy, but I’m not riding with him. He just doesn’t get it.”

Separating riding from drinking and using drugs is not difficult, it’s just a matter of deciding when you’re going to do what. Scan ahead and recognize the clues: ‘Am I going to be drinking? Then I’m not going to ride.’ Or ‘Am I going to ride? Then I’m not going to drink.’ Period.

Smoke, drink – like I said, that’s your choice. But when you do, plan on leaving the bike parked. This is the commitment you make when you join the riding community. Focus. Make sure you’re ready to ride – or don’t ride at all.

[INTERACTIVE]

Q: Which of the following statements is true? A: Drinking and riding should be separated at all times. You are correct. There is no “safe” amount of alcohol when it comes to motorcycle riding. Even one drink can compromise your skills.

6-7 | Final Activity – Think Like a Motorcyclist | Priority 1

[1.2.1.3] [6.2.x] [6.3.x] This chapter has shown what it takes to be ready to ride, including being free of distractions and impairments that interfere with dividing attention, scanning, and decision making. For the final activity, you will take everything you’ve learned so far and apply it to different riding situations – in the form of a card game. How cool is that?

You, the player, will first choose three cards, face up. These are the same choices riders make every day in the real world – choose wisely and enjoy the ride. Once you have chosen your type of motorcycle, riding gear, and type of ride you want to take, click “Deal.”

You will be dealt two face-down cards from the deck. These cards represent hazards or changes in the riding environment and you’ll play the hand you are dealt – just like in the real world. When you are dealt a hand, read the scenario, think like a motorcycle rider, and make a decision. You will get feedback on your decision and move on to the next hand.

To complete the game you will play five hands. You can choose a different bike, riding gear and ride type for each hand, however, you can only choose the same type of ride twice.

[INTERACTIVE]

Commuting – Riding to or from work

1. [6.1.1] [5.1.4] [6.2.2] [6.3.7] Invited out for a drink after work (alcohol; peer pressure) Q: It’s Joe’s last day at the office and everyone is joining up at the local bar to wish him off. Do you... A: Leave the bike at the office, hitch a ride to the bar, and get a safe ride home? Good choice! By leaving the bike where it is, you’ll never be tempted to ride it home, no matter how much you drink. If your friend rides to the bar, help them to make a responsible choice about separating drinking and riding.

2. [6.3.1] [6.3.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.2] Distracted by bad day at work (distraction; fatigue) Q: Today was just too much. Not only did your coworker make you cut your lunch short, but they took credit for your hard work. It’s 5 o’clock, you’re frustrated and angry, and all you can think about is getting on the open road to ride out your frustrations. Which route do you choose? A: Give yourself a few minutes to focus on the road ahead. Take a few deep breaths and leave the stresses of the day behind before you get out on the road. Great choice! Distraction and anger are big impairments. Either one can keep you from being a safe and proficient rider. Put them together, and you’re asking for trouble. Leave the stresses of the day behind you so that you can put your focus where it belongs – on the ride!

3. [6.1.1] [6.2.2] [6.3.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.2] Tired after a late night out (fatigue; alcohol) Q: You had a great time last night, but you’re paying for it now. It’s time to go to work, and you’re tired and hung over. You’d intended to ride to work today. What do you do? A: Leave the bike at home and drive today (or ride the bus.) Now you’re thinking like a motorcyclist! Some days just aren’t good for riding, and this might be one of them. Find another way to get to work and ride tomorrow instead.

4. [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.9.3] [6.3.6] [6.3.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.2] Weather okay now but potentially severe later (weather; fatigue) Q: Looking out the window, it seems like a perfect day to ride to work, but the forecast calls for severe thunderstorms and lightning later in the day. Do you ride to work? A: No. It’s not a good day to ride. Great choice! Just remember, even if you have adequate gear for severe weather, wind and lightning can be serious hazards for riders. On top of that, you’re going to be tired after a day at work. As tempting as it might be, perhaps it’s just a bad day to ride.

5. [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.9.3] [6.3.6] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] Pouring rain after long day, gear not waterproof

(riding gear; weather) Q: It was sunny and beautiful when you rode to work this morning, but you neglected to check the forecast. The 5 o’clock whistle just blew, it is pouring down rain outside, you’re exhausted, traffic is terrible, and you left your rain gear at home. What do you do? A: Ask around the office and see if you can get a ride with someone. Good call! Next time, check the forecast before you leave. If there’s even a slight chance of rain, be ready with proper gear.

6. [6.3.3] [3.1.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.3] Angry at other driver for forcing you onto shoulder (road rage; traffic) Q: You’ve seen your share of tense situations, but this was too much. That driver forced you right off the road and onto the shoulder, and for no reason except that they couldn’t be bothered to check their blind spot. You’re angry and shaken up. How do you handle the situation? A: Pull over and give yourself a few minutes to regroup. Take some deep breaths and make sure you’ve recovered, then smoothly and carefully re-enter traffic. Remember to avoid the blind spots of other vehicles. Now you’re thinking like a rider! Get yourself over your anger before heading back into traffic, so you can focus on the ride. Take this as a reminder to put yourself where you can see and be seen and make sure you’re wearing bright colors.

Solo Riding – Taking a ride just for fun

1. [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [6.3.6] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] Weather turns cold, inadequate layers (weather; riding gear) Q: It was warm when you left the house for a short ride, but you rode longer than you’d planned. The weather is turning cold, you’re starting to shiver and you didn’t bring along any extra layers. How are you going to safely get home? A: Stop in the next town. Buy a sweatshirt and long underwear or sweatpants. [5.3.3] Rest and warm up with a warm drink. Now you’re ready to finish your ride! Good call. Cold is a major impairment. Your reflexes are sluggish, and all your attention is focused on how miserable you are, not on the ride. Next time, check the forecast before you leave, and bring along extra clothes.

2. [1.3.2] [3.1.2] [4.7.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] Night settles in, all you have are sunglasses (riding gear; weather) Q: You never intended to be out all day, but the ride was too good to turn home earlier. Now you’re miles from home, the sun is setting, and your only eye protection is your dark sunglasses. Do you... A: Stop in the next town and buy some clear safety glasses. Good call! Safety glasses might not keep out all the wind, but they are better than dark sunglasses or no protection at all. Next time, bring along clear eye protection just in case. Better yet, consider a helmet that has a clear face shield. That way, no matter what the conditions, you’ll always have adequate eye protection.

3. [6.1.1] [6.2.2] [6.3.7] Stop for a bite at favorite tavern, bartender serves you a beer (alcohol; dinner stop)

Q: You’ve been a regular for years, and the bartender knows your favorite beer. What he doesn’t know is that you rode the motorcycle today. When he surprises you by bringing a beer with your food, what do you do? A: Politely turn down the drink and order a soft drink instead. Great choice! The only good strategy here is to separate riding and drinking.

4. [6.3.2] [3.1.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] Accidentally end up in aggressive, unfamiliar heavy city traffic (fatigue; change of plan) Q: It’s been a long day on the road. It’s hot, you’re exhausted and looking forward to quitting for the day – but you still have 75 miles to go. The sun is going down, so you jump on the freeway to get home quicker … but you forgot about weekend holiday traffic. It’s bumper to bumper and barely moving. What is the best choice? A: Call it a day. Exit the freeway and find a place to stay the night. Good choice! You’re fatigued and still have a long way to go. It’s nearly dark and traffic may be no better on the side roads. Get something to eat and a good night’s rest, and finish your trip in the morning.

5. [5.3.1] [5.3.3] [6.3.1] [6.3.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] Day trip to small town farther than you thought; fatigued on ride home (distraction; fatigue) Q: It was a terrific ride out to that little dot on the map, but a lot longer than you expected it to be. You’re on your way home and realizing just how tired you are. You’re feeling achy and fatigued, and a nap is starting to sound really good. How are you going to get home? A: Stop – you’re impaired. Stretch out under a tree and rest. Get an energy snack and cup of coffee before you head out again. Good choice! Your body is telling you it’s time to stop. If you need more than a short nap, then think about getting a motel room and finishing the trip tomorrow.

6. [3.1.3] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] End of long day, dusk, deer crosses roadway ahead and disappears (deer; visibility) Q: It was a beautiful day and one of the most satisfying rides you’ve ever had. The sun is going down, and in the twilight you see a deer cross the road up ahead and disappear into the woods. A quick look around doesn’t find any more deer. Do you... A: Use your brakes to slow down immediately, getting down to walking speed. Be extra careful, aggressively scanning the roadside looking for more deer. That’s a great choice! Animals like deer and elk tend to travel in herds. If you see one, you can be confident that there are more. Slow down immediately, and be aggressive about scanning the roadside. As you’re slowing down, be sure to keep an eye on any vehicles behind you as well.

Group Riding – Riding with friends

1. [5.1.4] [6.1.1] [6.2.2] [6.3.7] Couple of drinks after work, friend stops by for a ride (peer pressure; alcohol) Q: It was a long day at work, so you were pretty excited to get home and have a drink or two. Shortly after you finish your second drink, a couple of your friends stop by. They’re headed out for a ride and are hoping you’ll join them. What’s the best choice?

A: Turn down the invitation and promise to join them another time. Good call. Nobody wants to disappoint their friends, but real friends will never pressure you into riding after drinking. Separating drinking and riding is the only good choice.

2. [5.1.4] [6.1.1] [6.2.2] [6.2.5] [6.2.6] [6.3.7] Group stops for drinks on day ride (alcohol; lunch stop) Q: Your co-worker finally talked you into joining his club for their weekend ride, a nice long trip to the coast and back, with lunch at the turnaround point. As it turns out, lunch is at the group’s favorite tavern, and almost everybody orders a drink with their meal. How do you handle it? A: Thank your co-worker for the invitation and find an excuse to head out on your own, leaving the pack of impaired riders behind. Good call. Riding in a group of impaired riders is just about as dangerous as riding when you’re impaired. Separating drinking and riding is the only safe choice.

3. [5.1.4] [5.1.5] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.3] New rider in group (peer pressure; new rider) Q: You finally learned how to ride, and you just got your first bike a couple of weeks ago. Your best friend, a seasoned rider, invites you to join them for a ride with their experienced riding friends. It’s not long before the group pulls away from you. Your friend waves, encouraging you to try and keep up. Do you... A: Wave the group on and ride at a pace that is comfortable for you. Good call! Peer pressure and riding over your skill level are major impairments, and likely to cause you to start making some really bad choices. If the group won’t wait for you, then find another group to ride with or ride alone. Whether you’re riding with 2 people or 20, ride your own ride!

4. [6.3.1] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.3] Embarrassed by tipover at gas station (crash; gas stop) Q: Stopping for gas on a long ride with your friends, you pull up next to the pump. You didn’t see the fuel spill on the ground, and when your foot slips and the bike tips over, you are so embarrassed! The bike seems ok, but now you’re replaying it over and over in your mind while you’re riding. What now? A: Pull over and get your head back into the ride. Take a few deep breaths and forgive yourself, so you can re-focus on the ride. Now you’re thinking like a rider! There are many kinds of impairment besides alcohol, and distraction is a major one. Put the mishap out of your mind and wait to deal with it after you’re done riding for the day.

5. [6.2.2] [6.2.5] [6.2.7] [6.3.7] Other rider impaired (fatigue; alcohol) Q: It was a beautiful day, and it seemed like a terrific idea to call up your friend and go for a ride on your favorite back roads loop. Stopping for lunch at the halfway point, your thirsty friend orders a beer with his burger, and then a second one, which makes you a little nervous. But it’s the third beer that makes it clear that your friend should not be riding home. How do you handle it? A: Convince your friend that he’s done riding for the day. Find a motel room to share, give him a ride on the back of your bike or call someone to come get him. Good call. The only good strategy for drinking and riding is to separate them. Next time, let him know when he orders the first one that if he’s going to drink, you’re not going to ride with him.

6. [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.9.1] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.2] Raining at start, no rain gear, forecast to clear up by midmorning (weather; distraction) Q: It started raining shortly after the group ride started. Everyone else in the group has waterproof gear, but you left yours at home – it’s looking like you’re going to get soaked. The forecast calls for clearing by mid-morning. What do you do? A: Turn around and head back home. Change into some dry clothes and your rain gear, and get back out there to enjoy the day. Good call! Weather and discomfort can be serious distractions, keeping your attention from where it should be – on the ride! Getting dry and staying protected is the only reasonable choice here. You can join your friends later at the lunch stop and finish the ride.

Touring – Traveling far from home

1. [1.2.1.5] [3.1.2] [4.9.3] [5.3.1] [6.3.1] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.3] [1.2.2] Bad weather next two days, need to be home tonight (weather; distraction) Q: It’s been the trip of a lifetime, but you need to get back home tonight. The weather forecast is terrible – strong winds and severe storms in the afternoon. You’ve got rain gear, but you HATE riding in the rain and you have 200 miles yet to go. How do you handle the situation? A: Ask yourself “How badly I need to get home today? Will it be nicer tomorrow?” Consider stopping for the day to let the weather pass. Now you’re thinking like a motorcyclist! Rides are meant to be enjoyed, not endured. If you must continue, get your rain gear on and think it through: Plan to take your time, ride safely and quit riding before you get caught in severe weather.

2. [5.3.1] [6.3.1] [6.3.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] End of day, campground is full, fatigued (fatigue; change of plan) Q: You’ve been riding all day and you’re exhausted, but you’ve just arrived at the campground to find that your spot is taken! The manager tells you that there are no available spots, so now you’re angry too. It will be dark soon. What are you going to do? A: Ask the manager to help you find a motel room nearby or another campground with an available spot. Good call. This will also give you time to calm down, focus and assess the situation. A nearby motel is probably the quickest and simplest solution. Make a note to end your day earlier next time.

3. [4.6.2] [6.3.7] [1.2.2] [3.2.2] Construction/gravel between you and destination (change of plan; gravel) Q: The road you picked for the second leg of your journey is under construction. It’s just another 50 miles to get where you’re going, but the road conditions are getting worse and worse, with more and more gravel appearing in the curves. You know what a hazard gravel can be and you’re starting to get nervous. A: Slow to a speed that is comfortable for you and that allows you to safely avoid the gravel. You’ve got this! Just take it slow and enjoy the ride. Limit your entry speed in corners. If gravel covers the entire road surface, then keep a smooth throttle, reduce your lean angle, and keep

your head and eyes up, looking where you want to go. Try to ride in the tracks of other vehicles.

4. [6.3.1] [6.3.5] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.2] [1.2.1.3] Distracting minor injury after tipover (distraction; crash) Q: You were making a slow, tight turn as you set up for a parking spot, but then abrupt front brake caused the bike to tip over. The bike is fine, but your leg (and your ego!) ended up with a giant, painful bruise. The longer you ride, the achier it gets, distracting you more and more. What are you going to do? A: Stop. Take a break, take some aspirin, put some ice on your leg, and get your attention back where it needs to be – on the ride! That’s how a rider thinks! If you’re body and mind aren’t in top shape, then you need to fix it. Pain and emotional stress are major impairments that keep your attention away from where it needs to be – on the ride!

5. [1.2.3] [6.3.1] [6.3.7] [1.2.1.1.] [1.2.1.3] Tire nearly bald 100 miles from home (mechanical; distraction) Q: Your tire seemed fine when you left, but it was a long trip. You’re still 100 miles from home, your rear tire is nearly worn through and you’re getting more and more worried about it with each mile. What are you going to do? A: The risk of tire failure or complete traction loss is too great to go on. Stop as soon as possible and find a new tire or call a friend for a ride. Good call. A balding tire has decreased traction and increased risk of a blowout, either of which can cause a crash. Plus it’s a huge distraction, keeping your attention away from where it needs to be. Be safe and live to ride another day.

6. [6.3.1] [6.3.5] [6.3.7] Stinging bee ends up inside helmet (bee; injury) Q: It’s such a hot day that you decide to ride with your visor up. You feel something hit the inside of your helmet. The next thing you know, you’re feeling searing pain on your head. An insect, stuck inside your helmet, stings you. Now what? A: Pull over immediately and put down the side stand as quickly as you safely can. Get your helmet off and get the insect out. Good call. Be sure that the stinger is no longer in your skin and apply some pain-relieving ointment. Wait at least 15 minutes for any lingering pain or allergic reaction.

6-8 | Chapter Quiz

For the final activity in this chapter, you will demonstrate what you know about being ready to ride by taking a short quiz. When you finish, you will have completed the online classroom. Good luck!

[Quiz]

[SUPPLEMENT – DASHBOARD RESOURCE]

Motorcycle Terms and Definitions

ABS: [4.1.5] Antilock Braking System.

Apex: [4.2.1] The point in a curve where the rider’s line comes closest to the inside of the turn.

Blind Spot: [3.2.1.5] [4.5.1] Areas next to and behind a vehicle that are not visible in rear- and side-view mirrors. Avoid riding in another driver’s blind spots and perform a head check of your own blind spot before changing lanes or passing.

Body Armor: [1.3.4] [1.3.5] [1.3.6] [1.3.7] Also known as “impact protection.” Plastic and/or foam pads attached to riding jackets, pants, gloves and boots at the shoulders, elbows, knees, back etc. to absorb impact energy and friction and reduce injuries.

Conspicuity: [1.3.7] [1.3.8] [3.1.6] [3.3.2] Visibility to others; the ability of riders to draw attention to themselves even when others may not be actively looking for them.

Constant-Radius Turn: [4.2.1] A turn in which the radius remains the same throughout the turn.

Countersteering: [2.7.6] [4.2.4] [4,4,3] [4.4.6] Pressing forward on a handgrip, causing the motorcycle to lean in that direction.

Counterweighting: [2.11.1] During slow, tight turns, shifting body weight toward the outside of the turn and/or weighting the outside footpeg for better balance.

Decreasing-Radius Turn: [4.2.1] A turn that tightens up toward the end.

Delayed Apex: [4.2.1] An apex that comes after the middle of a turn, such as in a blind or decreasing-radius turn.

Divided Attention: [6.3.1] The ability to focus on multiple simultaneous tasks, such as operating the bike while scanning for hazards. Divided attention can be disrupted by using communication devices, carrying a passenger, riding in a group, etc.

Early Apex: [4.2.1] An apex that comes before the middle of the turn, such as in an increasing- radius turn with good sight distance.

Escape Route: [3.3.6] An alternate path of travel used in an emergency.

Feather the clutch: [2.4.5] [4.6.3] To use the friction zone to deliver engine power very carefully to the rear wheel, such as on a slippery surface or in a tight, low-speed turn.

Friction Zone: [2.4.4] [2.4.5] The area within the Clutch Lever’s travel in which engine power is only partially transmitted to the rear wheel.

Increasing-Radius Turn: [4.2.1] A turn in that opens up toward the end.

Line: [4.2.2] The path of travel through a turn.

Multi-Vehicle: A crash involving more than one vehicle. Most multi-vehicle crashes that end in a rider’s death are caused by motorcycle riders – not other drivers.

Posture: [2.5.1] [2.4.2] [2.5.3] Head and eyes up, looking where you want to go; back straight, shoulders and arms relaxed, elbows bent; feet on the footrests, knees against the fuel tank; use all four fingers on clutch and throttle.

Retro-Reflective: [4.8.1] An object or surface that reflects light back to the light’s source, such as car headlights. Good riding gear often uses retro-reflective materials to increase visibility at night.

Sight Distance: [3.3.1] [3.3.3] [3.4.2] The distance ahead the rider can see that helps determine speed, position and path of travel. “Overriding” sight distance means riding too fast to respond to hazards that appear within a rider’s sight distance.

Single-Vehicle: A crash involving only one vehicle. The majority of motorcycle deaths in Oregon are the result of single-vehicle crashes.

Situational Awareness: [3.3.1] Understanding your speed and position in relation to important features, hazards and clues in the riding environment.

Space Cushion: [3.3.4] The safety buffer or distance you maintain between yourself and potential hazards such as other road users, roadway features, surface hazards and roadside objects.

Square the Handlebars: [4.3.2] When stopping in a curve, just before coming to a complete stop, pointing the front wheel straight ahead balances the bike side to side.

Stalling: [2.6.4] [2.6.5] [2.9.6] [2.9.7] When stopping, disengaging (squeezing) the clutch before coming to a complete stop helps keep the bike from stalling.

Swerve: [4.4.3] [4.4.6] To change path of travel quickly by countersteering. Press one handgrip to lean and swerve that direction; press opposite handgrip to straighten bike and continue on new path.

Target Fixation: [3.1.4] [3.3.6] Staring at a hazard you are trying to avoid rather than the escape route, which often results in striking the hazard itself.

Visual Directional Control: [4.1.2] [4.2.5] [4.4.2] Controlling the path of the motorcycle by looking where you want to go.

Visual Lead: [3.2.1.1] [2.5.3] The distance you scan ahead while riding – 20 seconds recommended. A good visual lead provides enough time and space to respond safely to any hazard that may appear in your path.