Testour, Tunisia's Symbol of Religious Coexistence
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24 May 28, 2017 Travel www.thearabweekly.com Agenda Beirut: Through June 1 Souk El Tayeb is a weekly market that hosts more than 60 producers from across Lebanon with food products as well as traditional and handmade crafts. Souk El Tayeb is open 10am-4pm each Thursday at the Village Dbayeh. Dubai: Through July 27 Modernist Women of Egypt, an exhibit of work by Egyp- tian female artists, takes place at the Green Art Gallery on Alserkal Avenue in Dubai. The works on display are dated from 1950-70 and show the evolution of styles that shape the Egyptian identity of today and reflect the direct and The Grand Mosque of Testour. (Courtesy of Abdel Halim Koundi) emotional effects of political unrest in Egypt and the rest of the world at the time. Tunis: Testour, Tunisia’s symbol May 30-June 17 The 35th Tunis Medina Fes- tival is set for the Municipal Theatre of Tunis, Dar Las- of religious coexistence ram, Dar Hussein and Tahar Haddad Club. The festival in- cludes concerts by Salatine el- Roua Khlifi “The town of Testour exhibits Tarab from Syria, Zied Gharsa the influence of Andalusian archi- from Tunisia and others. tecture as many of its inhabitants Tunisian singer Leila Hjaiej is Testour came from Spain,” said Soussi. to perform the opening even- “They brought architectural tra- ing of the festival. More than ew places in Tunisia dis- ditions from Spain. Built from a dozen artistic performances play religious coexistence scratch, all the roofs are decorated will take place in the streets of the way Testour does. The with brickwork that is unique to the Old Medina and down- town was a refuge for thou- Spanish houses.” town Tunis. sands of Muslims and Jews The heart of Testour consists of a Ffleeing religious persecution in the peaceful, Western-like plaza, with Amman: 17th century and its monuments blue and white on the sides of its During June bear elements of all the religions main street. Its Arabic style is dis- that contributed to its history. played through arches, ornate tiles Starting on the third night Perched on hills overlooking the and doorways. of Ramadan, Amman each Medjerda River and surrounded by a Soussi said the town was estab- year celebrates traditional vast green tapestry of fields and riv- lished as a home for religious com- Arab culture with the Cita- ers, the town was originally named munities that were expelled under del Nights Festival. The city Tichilla — meaning “green grass” — Spanish King Phillip III in 1609. “For comes to life each night of by Berber tribes in the region. It re- decades, they only spoke Spanish Ramadan with concerts, recit- tained the name until the arrival of with each other and practised Span- als of classical Arab music, the Muslims and Jews from Spain in ish traditions,” he said, adding that traditional dishes and authen- the 17th century. they instilled Andalusian culture tic souks. and architecture in the area. The old town of Testour dates to A florist prepares jasmine bouquets in the centre of Testour. (Reuters) Jounieh: The town was a refuge the 17th century, making it one of June 24-August 15 for thousands of the oldest towns in Tunisia. A walk down its streets takes visitors into no windows. The roof is decorated that reminded them of their home- The Jounieh Summer Festi- Muslims and Jews the world of Andalusia. Past the al- in different shapes that do not re- towns in Spain. val, set near the Jounieh Bay fleeing religious leys of the old city lays the Grand semble any other. You could spend “The second important thing is north of Beirut, kicks off with persecution in the Mosque, which exhibits a complex hours contemplating the ceiling.” that this clock is counterclockwise. a spectacular fireworks show combination of architectural styles For many, the mosque is an em- “There are three [other such] clocks on the beach. The festival 17th century. and serves as a symbol of religious blem of religious tolerance, as its — one in Florence, Prague and the includes performances from tolerance. minaret incorporates an unusual third one in Germany.” international artists such as “It (Testour) is built on a hill sur- The 17th-century mosque, built combination of Islamic styles from The Testour clock is unique in Michael Bolton. rounded by mountains and nearing by Spanish immigrant Mohamed different Muslim sects and a Star of that its numbers face the centre three rivers,” said Rachid Soussi, Tagharinu, is known for its lack of David on the top, acknowledging and runs counterclockwise. Some Marrakech: president of the Association of the windows, elaborate domes, semi- the Jewish community that helped say it was crafted this way to have July 1-31 Protection of the Medina of Testour. circle arches and wealth of deco- build the city. the numbers point west and remind “Tribes fought over the town be- rative inscriptions. It also has a Soussi said the mosque’s mes- locals of their heritage. Others say it The annual Marrakech tween the 13th and 14th centuries. 22.5-metre-high minaret. sage of tolerance was unlike any was set backward to express their Festival of Popular Arts and Eventually, it became a capital for “The mosque was built using Ro- others built during its period. wish to go back in time to the days Folklore showcases Moroccan these tribes.” man rocks to create the court of It was meant to communicate of Andalusia. traditions, music, dance and When wandering the streets of the mosque as well as pillars,” said that all were “welcome in the “The numbers are all facing the costumes through the ages. Testour, one notices the unique Soussi. “All these are built using mosque,” said Soussi. “That it is a centre of the clock. Six would be Visitors attend concerts, ex- structure of the city that resembles Roman pieces. Inside the mosque, mosque for everyone. The dome is read as if it were nine…At the time, hibitions and Moroccan street the architectural style of the Moors. we have Andalusian arches. It has also known for having the Star of the clocks all were directed towards troupe performances. David on two sides, which dates to the centre. The other three clocks 400 years ago.” use roman numbers but the one Beiteddine: The Grand Mosque of Testour has in Testour has Arabic numerals,” July 1-August 12 several interesting features, includ- Koundi said. ing the typically Spanish rubble “Our ancestors believed that the The annual Beiteddine Art stone façade surrounded by rectan- clock points to the west so that they Festival, situated in Lebanon’s gular bricks. Yet its most impressive are reminded of their hometowns Chouf Mountains, includes feature is an ornate clock resting on in Spain whenever they look at it a variety of performances the south-western side of the mina- for time.” from opera and concerts to ret. In addition to the town’s beauti- theatre and art exhibitions. The numbers on the minaret ful scenery, consisting of vast green The festival welcomes more clock are symbolically placed back- fields, Testour is known for the Ma- than 50,000 visitors, as well ward. It is one of only four func- louf Festival, a musical event that, as numerous star performers. tioning clocks in the world with every June, celebrates the town’s Majida el-Roumi, Pink Martini such features. The clock, famous Andalusian and Moorish heritage. and Kadim al-Sahir are to per- for running counterclockwise, was “Visiting Testour sometimes form at this year’s festival. restored in 2014 through the efforts feels like a trip back in time to the of Abdel Halim Koundi, an engineer world of Andalusia. It is not just the We welcome submissions of whose ancestors were among the architecture but the traditions and calendar items related to Andalusian families who sought the music that throw us always to cultural events of interest to refuge in Testour. that time of history,” Koundi said. travellers in the Middle East “This clock is the only one on a and North Africa. mosque in the world,” Koundi said. Roua Khlifi is a regular Travel and Please send tips to: A Tunisian vendor arranges pomegranates during the “The Andalusians brought the idea Culture contributor to The Arab editor@thearabweekly.com Pomegranate Festival in the small town of Testour. (AFP) back maybe to combine the aspects Weekly. She is based in Tunis..