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1. Yves Saint Laurent brand

Yves Saint Laurent YSL (also known as Saint Laurent Paris) is a luxury fashion house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The founder of the brand died in 2008 and the house produced its last haute couture line in 2002. Founded in 1961 it has been considered one of the world's most prominent fashion houses and known for its modern and iconic pieces, such as its tuxedo jackets for women. Today Saint Laurent Paris MARKETS a broad range of women's and men's ready-to-wear products, leather goods, shoes, and jewellery. Yves Saint Laurent Beauty also has a notable presence in the luxury beauty market, although this is run independently through L'Oreal Paris that licenses the name. During the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, safari jackets for men and women, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots, including the creation of arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking suit. The brand continued to expand in the 1980s and early 1990s with fragrances for both men and women, having launched its cosmetic line in 1978. However, the Yves Saint Laurent name and iconic YSL LOGO have been retained for accessories such as handbags and shoes, and cosmetics (which are licensed to L'Oréal).

2. Consumer profile Saint Laurent’s consumer has changed in recent years due to the re- posi- tioning of the brand. The older affluent consumer that signified elegance was in the age bracket of 35+. However with Slimane’s renovations for the ready- to-wear collections and leather goods it now appeals to a more youthful market (25-35) mixing the style of edgy and classy. The consumer base is global and continuously growing into emerging mar- kets. Saint Laurent excelled in the Middle East (2012) and China’s revenue grew to 24.3% in 2012, this denotes the growing consumer base overseas. Furthermore, sales were up 14.9% in current markets Europe and Japan, which reflects the growing local consumer. The typical Saint Laurent consumer is young and “fashion savvy” (Jackson and Shaw, 2009) and place high value in luxury brands to increase their social status. The niche consumer group is not price sensitive therefore the inelastic products (Jackson and Shaw, 2009) generate desirability to the consumer. However, “entry level” products (Jackson and Shaw, 2009) such as cosmet- ics, and small leather goods are more accessible to a ‘mass-market’.

Saint Laurent Woman She is a career driven woman working in either law, business or marketing therefore has disposable income to spend on luxury products. She is also from a high status but prefers a rocky look opposed to sophisticated cloth- ing. Her personality is fun and she appreciates socialising with friends and family at bars, restaurants and music gigs as well as visiting art galleries for creative inspiration. Her individual style is reflected in the statement pieces worn from Saint Laurent such as the leather jacket. With regards to Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (Posner, 2011) ‘Esteem’ gives her the status and sense of achievement she desires.

3. Ideal Customer

The ideal customer for YSL could be anyone, regardless of gender, who appreciates the French aesthetic and luxury items. This customer should understand what Yves Saint Laurent meant when he famously said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal” (Thinkexist.com). More specifically, the ideal customer is an individual over the age of 25 with a substantial income that allows them to invest in luxury fashion. For the cosmetic and fragrance products, the age range for an ideal customer may also include savvy high school and college students who appreciate the legacy of the brand. There is no age cap on the ideal YSL customer as many of the ready-to-wear designs would look equally as stunning on an 80 year old as on a 30 year old. The ideal YSL customer either lives or spends a good deal of time in an urban setting that calls for an occasion to dress to impress. In prior years, the ideal customer may have been limited to the capitals of the Western World, but the explosion of the Asian market has made this limitation null and void. The ideal customer is an individual who dresses both for their own enjoyment and to communicate an air of refinement to those around them. The ideal customer is upper-middle class to upper class and most likely has some kind of higher education.

4. SWOT ANALISYS

Strength + Opportunity -Sustainability is inherent in the Kering Group to create value and a competitive advantage - Improve their CSR policy

The international fashion market is growing in concern for the ethical and green issues surrounding the industry (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). The fashion con- sumer is becoming more aware of a brands CSR policy to understand how socially responsible they are. Social media exposes unethical behavior such as Nike and Primark’s sweatshops therefore a brand can longer control their transparency. Consequently being green and ethical can create a profit because of a positive brand image.

“Being a great company is the new brand” (Bogusky, 2012). The Kering group has clearly defined their policies related to CSR in their company report. Sustainability is inherent in the Kering Group to create value and a competitive advantage because in todays marketing, being green can create a profit. Saint Laurent has recently implemented “societal objectives” (Wood, 2007) to the business through the new design of the store and the packaging. Their societal objectives are related to protecting the environment and being green as listed below.

 Packaging such as boxes and shopping bags are made from 100% recyclable materials

 LED lighting and heating will improve the energy consumption

 With the new store concept, they are recycling furniture and equipment that is being replaced

However Saint Laurent could improve their CSR against direct competition like Stella McCartney who is known for ethical fashion. Thus, they could look to develop their social responsibility and relations with the public (Wood, 2007). This may be through supporting charities or encouraging their employees to dedicate their own time to volunteer.

Weakness + Opportunity

-Not competitive digitally -Opportunity- Develop digital platforms such as an app

Whilst Saint Laurent’s have a new website to reflect the rebranding and they use social media as promotion, they are not digitally innovative in comparison to competitors such as Burberry. The Burberry flagship stores are digitally integrated showrooms and the brand is known for blurring the lines between physical and digital. “Marketers need to keep abreast of technological developments if they are to ensure that their business is delivering the best and fastest decisions. Those who embrace technology first will enjoy at least a temporarily sustainable competitive advantage” (Jackson and Shaw, 2009).

To improve their competitiveness, Saint Laurent should concentrate on their “mobile marketing” (Wood’s, 2007) due to the growing population who own a smartphone. They could create an app for the ready-to-wear collections and leather goods to “support customer acquisition and retention” (Chaffey and Ellis-Chadwick (2012). Furthermore they may look to offer live-chat online to have “direct communi- cation” (Posner, 2011) with the consumer. The ‘communication process’ (Kotler et al, 2001) is important between the brand and it’s consumer to ensure the right message is delivered.

Strength + Threat

-Permanent collection are long lasting trends -New rock ‘n’ roll image is very on trend now but could it date?

The permanent collection for Saint Laurent mainly consists of leather products that are timeless and not affected by seasonal trends thus profitable for them. The renovated rock ‘n’ roll image for the brand re- flected in their permanent collection is currently on trend in the luxury market. The Autumn/Winter 12/13 catwalk was high on gothic glamour (Hitchings, 2012). Indirect competitors (Worth, 2013) such as Dior, Valentino and Celine who usually embrace a sophisticated style adopted a black leather look. As well as direct competitors (Worth, 2013) with the likes of Gucci, Givenchy, Mulberry and Michael Kors. Sudden fads can emerge in the mass market and be short-lived (Jackson and Shaw, 2009), thus it is important for Saint Laurent to address individualism to their ‘edgy’ look to ensure it is a classic trend in the ‘lifecycle of a fashion trend’ (Posner, 2011). The artisan quality of Saint Laurent products could distinguish it from the mass market (Jackson and Shaw, 2009).

Weakness + Threat

-Branding is unclear -New competitors entering the market

“Using both Yves Saint Laurent and Saint Laurent Paris is a confusing strategy for most consumers” (Ries, 2012). The rebranding of Saint Laurent was not communicated adequately. This is confusing for the consum- er because the logo varies at different ‘brand touch points’ (Davis and Dunn, 2002). They should look to carry out ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ through their digital platforms such as their web URL, Facebook and Twitter. For products that will keep the ‘YSL’ logo such as handbags and cosmetics, it is essential that the consumer understand the different brand names. The supporting image denotes a menswear t-shirt with the label Saint Laurent Paris, yet the logo ‘YSL’. Consequently this delivers an inconsistent brand message and could weaken their brand equity (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). With the threat of new competitors it is fundamental for the company to address this tangible feature to create a strong brand message, which will differentiate Saint Laurent from competition.

https://chloestudd.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/saintlaurentparisbrie ffinalpdf.pdf https://moriahkathleen.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/binder2.pdf - Brand analysis

Marketing Analysis 4P’s

Product

As luxury items, YSL products serve two purposes for the customer. First, they serve a practical use. Whether the specific product is a coat, shoe, or fragrance it is able to meet the need of a customer. However, YSL products provide something more to customers. Whether a customer is seeking a status symbol or they truly love the finer aesthetic of high-end design, the YSL product can fulfill this desire. YSL products are branded as luxury items that can appeal to any member of the global community with a taste for the finer things in life. YSL differentiates itself from its competition as the sole French luxury brand within the Gucci Group.

Price

The buyers of YSL understand it as a luxury brand. Therefore, they expect to pay a high price for the product. Within the luxury fashion world price points can vary, as the customers of such brands are not very price sensitive. However, luxury price points for apparel, shoes, and handbags tend to start around the $1000 mark. YSL is in line with their competitors as their average dress is around $1,900 and their average woman’s high heel around $1000 with flats at a little under $500 (YSL.com, Shoes). YSL fragrances and cosmetics come with a smaller price tag with a small bottle of costing only $57 (YSL.com, Opium). While ready-to-wear customers are likely to also purchase YSL fragrances and cosmetics, there are also more price sensitive customers who purchase these items to get a bit of the YSL brand in their home.

Promotion As the target market for a luxury brand like YSL is relatively small, it is in the brand’s best interest to focus promotion efforts in medias that the luxury group is attune to. Of course, this includes full-page advertisements in fashion publications such as Vogue, W, and Elle. Other traditional media such as television or radio commercials are not as effective with this type of brand. Billboards in large metropolitan areas like New York or London can be effective. However, the rise of the Internet and social media is an excellent promotion tool for luxury brands. YSL can promote itself both through its own website, Facebook, and Twitter pages as well as through good word of mouth spread by bloggers and other social media users. Style.com’s galleries of ready-to-wear collections available immediately after the shows are one of YSL’s greatest means to promote the brand without any additional expense to the PPR Corporation.

Place

Before the Internet, YSL customers would have to trek to metropolitan areas with either an YSL boutique or a luxury department store. While these stores are still crucial to the success of the brand, the Internet has allowed YSL to open to a worldwide audience who can purchase YSL products at home. In turn, this has helped YSL become increasingly popular as a global brand and the company has seen great growth in Asia and the Middle East with 35% of PPR’s Luxury Group’s revenues in 2010 coming from emerging markets which is a 20.3% growth since 2009 (Inextenso, p. 9). Because of this marked growth, YSL should continue opening more retail stores in these regions with emerging markets.

FASHION FADES. STYLE IS ETERNAL.

Sample perfume

-easier access to the product

- closer relation with the product

- makes you just want to go in the store and buy it

Brand LOGO

The original logotype of YSL, often CREDITED as one of the most iconic in fashion industry, was designed by the famous Ukrainian-French artist and font designer A. M. Cassandre in 1963. It contained the company’s name, Yves Saint Laurent, in a very fashionable and stylistic manner. The current version of the YSL logo was unveiled in July 2012 to a lukewarm response. Although notable for discarding “Yves” from the brand name, as well as the ADDITION of “Paris” below it, the logo was criticized by design experts and fans alike for being too generic and unimaginative. Colors of the YSL Logo

The white color represents the charm and purity of the YSL brand while the black color reflects its sophistication and ELEGANCE .

Brand’s history with perfumes

Cosmetics and perfumes have long been included in the designer's offerings. The house's first fragrance, Y for women, was launched in 1964. Y and several other launches by YSL, including Rive Gauche (1970), Opium (1977), men's scent Kourous (1981), and Paris (1983) have become modern classics of the perfume world and remain best- sellers. The company continues to earn new fans with contemporary releases such as Baby Doll (2000), Elle (2007) and La Nuit de l'Homme (2009). YSL offers fragrances in conjunction with L'Oreal Group.

Designer Yves Saint Laurent has 144 perfumes in our fragrance base. The earliest edition was created in 1964 and the newest is from 2015. Yves Saint Laurent fragrances were made in collaboration with perfumers Karine Dubreuil, Jean Amic, Ralf Schwieger, Cecile Matton, Jacques Cavallier, Olivier Cresp, Jean-Claude Ellena, Jean-Francois Latty, Pierre Bourdon, Annick Menardo, Michel Girard, Olivier Pescheux, Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye, Dominique Ropion, Olivier Polge, Carlos Benaim, Juliette Karagueuzoglou, Alberto Morillas, Loc Dong, Honorine Blanc, Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Amandine Marie, Sophia Grojsman, Laurent Bruyere, Sophie Labbe and Daniela ROCHE ) Andrier.

BLACK OPIUM Official Statements

FASCINATING AND FORBIDDEN. SHE WANTS IT. SHE’S GONNA GET IT BACK. WHO COULD POSSIBLY STOP HER? BOUNDLESS AND CAREFREE. SHE DEFIES ALL THE RULES. HIGHLY ADDICTIVE AND SULFUROUS, BLACK OPIUM IS MUCH MORE THAN JUST A PERFUME. AN EXCEPTIONAL ADVENTURE, FOR THOSE WHO SIMPLY WON’T WAIT FOR LIFE TO HAPPEN. FOR THOSE WHO DARE MAKE THINGS HAPPEN, FOR THOSE WHO DARE BREAKING THE RULES. WHO GET WHAT THEY WANT.

THE INSPIRATION A modern, young & vibrant interpretation of addiction. BLACK OPIUM, a fragrance like a shot of adrenalin, the necessary energy for a life more & more intense.

THE PERSONALITY Assertive and unique, the BLACK OPIUM woman embodies the new Yves Saint Laurent spirit. Free and self­confident, she expresses a femininity glamourous yet impertinent. Always searching for new experiences, nothing will stop her.

THE BOTTLE More irresistible than ever, the BLACK OPIUM bottle is reinvented in an unconditionally rock decor, absolutely feminine. The black glitter finish electrifies the intense black and reveals a blazing ring of burning femininity

Eddie Campbell

With a grandmother who was a model and a mother as fashion editor at Vogue UK, style is in the family DNA. From the very beginning, many photographers were attracted by her presence and young British style: spotted by Lucinda Chambers in 2009, Mario Testino captured her image for a “Young London” feature for Vogue UK, Steven Meisel many times for Vogue Italia, but also for Gentlewoman, I­D, and more. In magazines or on catwalks, she lends her image to the most prestigious fashion houses. More than a Beauty, Campbell is elegant, rock ‘n roll, cultivated and full of humor. She graduated in art history from the Courtauld Institute of Art and in 2007 she won the Glorious Goodwood, the first all­ladies horse race. In 2013, she cut her long fair locks for short ink­black shag, far from stereotypes. Later in the year, she was crowned Model of the Year by the British Fashion Awards.

Her fame enables her to spread the word about The Reading Agency. She also supports the organization’s “MyvoiceUK” program, which creates reading and writing experiences for and by young people. OPIUM 1977

Naming and theme[edit] Opium caused a stir with its controversial name and brought accusations that brand designer Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use.[5] In the United States, a group of Chinese Americans demanded a change of the name and a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns." They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, which expressed outrage at the choice of a name representing "a menace that destroyed many lives in China."[6] But such controversies rather helped the perfume to be well-publicized, which soon became a best-selling scent.[4] For its launch party in 1977, a tall ship Peking was rented from the South Street Seaport Museum in New York's East Harbor, and writer Truman Capote sat at the helm of the ship at the party.[4] The ship was draped with banners of GOLD , red, and purple, and the Oriental theme was displayed with a thousand-pound bronze statue of the Buddha, decorated with white cattleya orchids.[4] YSL CARRIED the Oriental theme into its packaging design as well—the red plastic container holding the perfume's glass vial, designed by Pierre Dinand,[7][2] was inspired by inro (印籠, いんろう?), the small Japanese lacquered cases that were worn under kimonos and held perfumes, herbs and medicines.[8] Opium, Lilac Perfume Oil and White Musk from The Body Shop, Juniper Breeze from Bath & Body Works and Royal Secret formerly Germaine Monteil were among the perfumes tested in 2003 in a study of the relationship of scents to memory.[9] Ad campaign controversy[edit] A poster advertising campaign for the perfume caused another controversy in October and November 2000. It featured the model Sophie Dahl lying on her back wearing only a pair of stiletto heels, seemingly in the throes of ecstasy, with her legs spread apart as she covers one of her nipples with her hand.[10] This ad compaign, photographed by Steven Meisel, was widely seen in print ads and posters in bus shelters in many countries. It won an award in Spain[11] but generated an uproar in other places, particularly in the United Kingdom. The British Advertising Standards Authority received more than 700 complaints from the public, and ordered the posters to be withdrawn on the grounds that they were too sexually suggestive, degrading to women, and likely to cause "serious or widespread offence".[12][13] American journalist Susan Faludi argued that certain perfume ad campaigns pushed "idealization of weak yielding women" to the extreme, CITING the Opium advertisement as a primary example.[14]