CE-NTRAL'. ASIA AND TIBET
TOWARDS THE HOLY CITY~ OF. LASSA_:: ( '' ' "
- S V E N - H E D I N,~ Central Asia and Tibet VOL. II. c ..
Frontispiea to VOL. II. CENTRAL ASIA AND TIBET Towards the Holy City of Lassa
BY
SVEN HEDIN Author of "Through Asia," etc.
With 420 Illustrations from Drawings and Photographs,. Eight Full-page Coloured 1lllustrations from Paintings, and Five Maps, mostly by the Author
VOL. II.
HURST AND BLACKETT, LIMITED LONDON 1903 All rights reserved. List of- Editions.
AMERICA: Charles Scribners Sons New York. GERMANY: F. A. Brockbaus Leipzig. FRANCE: Felix Juven - Paris. RUSSIA: A. Devrien - St. Petersburg. ITALY: Ulrico Hoepli Milan. HUNGARY: F. Wodianer & Sons Budapest SWEDEN: Albert Bonnier - Stockholm. NORWAY &l DENMARK: S Alb. Cammermeyer - Christiania. BOHEMIA: jos. R. Vilimek - Prague. AUSTRALASIA: SG. Robertson & Co. ~Melbourne. l Proprietary, Ltd. AND GREAT BRITAIN: Hurst and Blackett, Limited London. Dedi~afion.
~
THE ENGLISH AND AMERICAN EDITIONS
OF THIS WORK ARE DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION
TO
HIS EXCELLENCY LORD CURZON OF KEDLESTON,
VICEROY OF INDIA,
WITH GRATITUDE AND ADMIRATION BY THE AUTHOR. PRI.NTED BY KELLY'S DIRECTORIES LTD., LONDON AND KINGSTON. CONTENTS.
VI. ACROSS THE DESERT OF GOBI. MOUNTAIN DEFILES AND A WATERLESS DESERT. <:HAP. PAGE I.-A TRIP TO THE AYAG-KUl\1-KOLL . 3 H.-CROSSING THE PASSES OF NORTHERN TIBET. 2-1- 111.-A JOURNEY TO ANAMBARUIN-GOL", 37 IV.-AMONGST THE S.ARTANG MoNGOLS 62 V.-SEARCHING FOR wATER IN AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY 90
VII. THE RUINED TOWNS OF. LOU-LAN. A VANISHED COUNTRY. VI.-THE RUINS OF ANCIENT LOP-NOR III VII.-Lou-LAN I39
VIII. A SURVEY OF THE LOP DESERT. A WANDERING LAKE.
VIII.-SuRVEYING THE LoP DESERT I 53 IX.-A WANDERING LAKE • I63 X.-PREPARATIONS FOR TIBET • I77 XI.-THE LAST OF ISLAM BAI I90
IX. ACROSS TIBET FROM NORTH TO SOUTH. TRAYELLING AMONGST THE CLOUDS.
XII.~AcROSS THE BORDER RANGES TO THE Kulll-KOLL. • 205 Xlll.-FROM THE KUM-KOLL TO THE ARKA-TAGH .. 229 viii CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAG& XIV.~ACROSS THE ARKA-TAGH IN A SNOWSTORM • • 246 , XV.-FIRST CONTACT WITH THE TIBETANS • 263 XVI.-QUAGMIRES AND SKY-SCRAPING PASSES • • 280
X. A DASH FOR LASSA.
THE FORBIDDEN LAND OF THE HOLY BOOKS. XVII.-THE START FOR LAssA. 2 95 XVIII.-A NIGHT ATTACK • . 305 XIX.-A WET NIGHT-WATCH .• 314 XX.-FIRST MEETING WITH THE NOMADS 32 7 XXI.-YAK CARAVANS : • • 34Z XXII.-PRISONERS • • 351 XXIII.-CROSS-QUESTIONED BY KAMBA BOMBO • • 368 XXIV.-SENT BA.CK UNDER EscoRT. . 384 .XXV.-BACK AT HEADQUARTERS CAMP 400
.XI. ACROSS. TIBET TO LADAK.
A CHAIN OF HIGHLAND LAKES. XXVI.-SOUTH AGAIN 413 XXVII.-DEATH AND BURIAL OF KALPET • . 432 XXVIII.-THE E"MISSARIES FROM LASSA 45Z XXIX.-THE NAKKTSONG-TSO • 463 XXX.-STORM~STAYED IN THE CHARGUT-TSO . 480 XXXI.-YAMDU TsERING. A SIDE ExcuRSION • . 495 XXXII.-VIA DoLOROSA • 51 9 XXXIII.-Tso-NGOMBO OR THE BLUE LAKE • - 544 XXXIV.-FROM THE P ANGGONG-TSO TO LEH 569
XII. TO INDIA, KASHGAR AND HOME.
XXXV.-A VISIT TO INDIA . 597 XXXVI.-HOME VIA THE MONASTERY OF HIMIS • 613 INDEX.
ABDALL, or Abdal i. 397, 438, Akin, or chukker-su, " trench in 439; altitude of, i. 400 ; gad river bottom," i. 94· flies at, i. 439, 440 ; natives Ak Kasha, boatman, i. 416. of, i. 449· Ak-koll, or Ak-kol, i. 434; ii. I75· Abdu Rehim, a mighty camel Ak-kum, "white sand," i. 00. slayer, i. 321, 353 ; portrait Ak-kumning-:yugan-koll, i. rgo. of, i. 381 ; hired as guide, i. 322; Aksakal, "consular agent," i. 77· starts for Kurruktagh, i. 335; Aksakal, of Korla, i. 222 ; of on wild camels, i. 356 ; hunts Yanghi-koll, i. 246, 248, 416, wild camel, i. 358, 360, 366 ; 427, 436. See also KHALMET truthfulness of, i. 359; accom AKSAK.-\L. panies author into desert, i. Aksak-maral, beg of, i. 102, ros, 37 4 ; geographical knowledge 107, ro8. of, i. 375 ; returns home, i. Ak-sattma, i, 136. 379 ; springs of, . i. 375 ; ii. Aksu, i. 332. IOI. Aksu-daria, i. 152, I53· Abdullah, mountaineer, ii. 599, Aktarma, huts at, i. 251. 614. Alabaster, ii. I43· Abdurrahman, the jighit, i. 175- Ala-ayghir, on-bashi of, i. roo, ror. 176. . Alai Mts. i. 12, .24; valley of, Abdurrahman Khoja, i. 573· i. 25-29- . Acha, " the channel," i. 418. Ala Kunglei Buzrugvar, i. r65, Achik-koll, lake, i. sgo, 591. r68. Achik-kuduk, "salt well," ii. 85. Aldat, the Afghan, i. 470, 473; Achik-yardang-bulak, spring, portrait of, i. SIS ; character of, i. 353· i. 562 ; as guide, i. 481 ; re Addan-tso, ii. 491, 496. connoitres, i. 505 ; shoots an Aerometers, i. 4· antelope, i. sog ; topographical Agacha Khan, i. 447· knowledge, i. 513 ; breaks his Aghil, " sheep-fold," i. 26. musket, i. 526 ; shoots wild Ahmed, ii. 37, 74, 523, 594· yaks, i. 526, 547, 565 ; hauls Ahmed Pavan of Singher, i. 357, author's boat ashore, i. 539; 359· - accompanies author, i. s64; Aji-tsonyak, ii. 568. last illness of, i. 564-582 ; his Akato-tagh, ii. 27,49; approaches mind wanders, i. s6S.; sick to, i. 468, 469; composition of, bed of, i. s6g ; death-place, i. ii. 41 ; defiles of, ii. 41-48 ; 579 ; burial, i. 583 ; his father, gravel-and-shingle terrace, ii. i. 584 ; ii. !82.. 53 ; passes of, ii. 48, 49, 469 ; Algre, i. 128, 406. spring in, ii. 49, 53· Ali Ahun, tailor, i. 328, 478,007; Ak-bai, well, i. 299· ii. 36; portrait of, ii. 31. Ak-baital, i. rg. Alim Ahun, i. 92, rsr, 200 ; at Akbura, i. 14. sport, i. r6r ; in a canoe, i. I73· Ak-chokka-aytuseh, i. 486. Al-kattik-chekkeh, i. 205; 207; Akhin, " stream," i. 320. Alla-sangpo, river, ii. 441, 472. Ak-ilek, i. 3II. Almaz, ii. 264, 476; illness of, INDEX.
ii. 504, ·523, 53I ; returns home, Ants, i. 465. ii. 594· . Apricots, i. 75· Altimish-bulak, i. 32I, 366; ii. Araba, " Turkestan cart," i. I3 ; 97, I02 ; author testing level ii. I86. ling instruments at, ii. 99; Arabachi, "coachman," i. 25. temperature at, ii. I07 Aral, or aralchi, " island," i. 92. Altitudes of Abdall, i. 460 ; in Aralchi, shepherd's hut at; i. 3I3, Central Tibet, ii. 266, 267, 282, 3I5. 284, 4I9,". 475; in Northern Aralchi, or aral, " island," i. 92. Tibet, i. 509, 522, 552, 564- Ara-tagh, or Middle Chain, i. 485, 570, 578, 58I, 589 ; ii. 43, 2I8, 488. See also TIBETl NoRTH 238, 247, 254, 258, 26I, 262 ; ERN BoRDER RANGES OF. in Western Tibet, ii. 503, 5I7, Archa, "juniper," i. 20. 53I, 544, 547, 557, 582. . Archceological Exploration in Amban, "Chinese governor," i. Chinese Turkestan, Dr. Stein's, ug, 420. See also JAN DALOI. i. 304n. Amber beads, ii. I43· Arelish, i. 230, 320 ; beg of, i. 202. Amdo, Tibetan ·province, ii. 35I, Arghan, or Ayrilghan, i. 3I9, 437- 398. 44!. Amdo-mochu, ii. 345· Argol, " dung as fuel," ii. 30, 235, · Amgon Lama, ii. 364. 328, 340, 35I ; author collects, Amrik-va, ii. 5II. ii. 3I4 ; flame of, ii. 465. Amu-daria, i. IO ; bridge over, Argussun, or argol, "dung as i. IO. fuel," ii. 30. Anambaruin-gol, ii. 6I, 62, 77 ; Arik, " irrigation channel," i. 5I, camp at, ii. 54 ; cooking and 53, 54 ; ii. I36. washing at, ii. 5I ; journey to, Arka-koll, i. 404. ii. 37-6!. Arka-tagh, i. 498, 507, 588; ii. Anambaruin-ula or Anambar-ula, 243 ; altitude of, i. 509, 589 ; ii. 38, 6I, 6g, 73· parallel ranges of, i. 502, 505 ; Ancient Ruins. See ANDEREH passes of;i. 503; ii. 247; snow TEREM, Lou-LAN, SHAHR-I storm on, i. 589 ; spurs of, i. KETTEK-KuM, and YING-PEN. 506 ; summit of, i. 5II ; travel Andereh, i. 304. ling across, i. 496-5II ; ii. 246- Andereh-terem, i. 296, 303 ; snow- 247. storm on way to, i. 303. Arkharis, "mountain sheep," i. ·Andersson, Mr., ii. 628. 33g, 56g; ii. 62, 2IO, 2I8, 247. Andijan, or Andishan, i. I2 ; ii. Arrows, ii. I43· · 628; merchants of, i. I49, 328, Artan, "castrated male camel," 332- ' ii. 229· Andijanlik, "West Turkestan Aru-tso, lake, ii. 544· ,. ~ mereh an t , 1. I49, 32 , 332. Asclepias, " rush," i. 320. Andishim. See ANDIJAN. Ash, " Turkestan rice-pudding," Andree, balloon trip o ~, i . 266. i. I7, I8I, 263. Anemometer, i. 4. 8 . Ash tayyar, "Dinner is ready," Anmarju, ii. 577, 58I, 582. i. I8I. Anna Tsering, ii. 388-389, 397, 399· Ashur Beg, i. 428. Ansash-kum, i. 2II. Asia, travel in, i., vi. See also An-si, ii. I44· GoBI, DESERT oF; TAKLA Antelopes in Desert o~ Gobi, ii. MAKAN; TARIM; and TIBET. 82, 97; in Kurruk-tagh, i. 339; Askabad, i. g. in Tibet, ii. 495 ; orongo, i. 556 ; Asman, " fish," i. I23. See also ii. 222, 240, 255, 27I, 44I ; FISH. yureh, ii. 4I6. Ass, wild. See K ULAN. INDEX.
Asses, tame, ii. 230 ; caravan of,· walks across the Chokka-tagh; ii. 236, 238, 239 ; cost of, ii. II2. i. 129-133 ; his favourite dog Asta akkadi, " current flowing dies, i. 135 ; visits the Masar slowly," i. 94· Khojam, i. 146-147; met by Astin-yoll, "lower road, " i. 297, begs at Avvat, i. 149-150; 298, 3o1 ; ii. 85. met by beg of Shahyar, i. 176- Astun-tagh. See AsTYN-TAGH. 177; describes the. ice-disks, Astyn-tagh, or Astun-tagh, i. 464; i. 21o-216; travelling on ii. 33 ; journey across, i. 457- Tarim by night, i. 2II-216, 467 ; parallel chains of, ii. 54· 43o-433 ; met by Parpi Bai, Atchal, i. 189. i. 222 ; describes the marginal Atmosphere, curious effect of, i. lagoons of Tarim, i. 226-230, 215; ii. 33 ; on Tibetan high 246-250, 263-264 ; arrives at lands, i. 535, 547· See also Yanghi-koll, i. 233; in winter SUNRISE and SUNSET. quarters, i. 234-243, 25o-255, Atta Kellghen, i. 416. 32o-332, 41o-414 ; dismisses Att-attgan, " the Shot Horse," Niaz Hadji, i. 234-235 ; re ii. 8. . connoitres the desert, i 243- Att-bashi, "leader of horses," ii. 250; meets M. Bonin, i. 252- 227. 255; crosses the Takla-makan Atti Kush Padishah, i. 243· desert, i. 255-295 ; describes Att-pangats, i. 99· the bayirs. i. 264-285, 318 ; Aul, " tent-village," i. 18, 24 ; ii. spends Christmas Eve in _the 69. Desert, i. 27o-271 ; finds vege Author; portraits of, i. 47; ii. 17; tation in middle of desert, i. in Mongolian dress, ii. 297, 277 ; snowed up in desert, i. 3II; expresses his thanks, i., 286-289 ; strikes the Cherchen v.; apology for his book, i., daria, i. 292; rides to Andereh vi.; and Dr. M. A. Stein, i., terem and back,· i. 296-305 ; vii., 144n.; leaves Stockholm, searches for old bed of Cher i. 3 ; his equipment, i. 3-5n. ; chen-daria, i. 305-308; de journeys through Russia, i. 4-7; scribes a Raskolniki (?)burial across the Caspian, i. 8 ; through place, i. 309-310 ; travels down \Vest Turkestan, i. g-12; met the· Ettek-tarim, i. 315-319 ; by Islam Bai, i. 13 ; leaves back at Yanghi-koll, i. 32o- Osh, i. 14; his caravan to . 332 ; engages Abdu Rehim, Kashgar, i. 17-18, 21, 31 ; i. 322; joined by two Buriat travels from Osh to Kashgar, Cossacks, i. 322-325; dismisses i. 17-39; makes preparations Kurban, i. 325 ; travels to Kur at Kashgar, i. 4o-46; starts ruk-daria, i. 335-352; comes from Kashgar, i. 47-50; travels upon ruins . of Ying-pen, i. to the Yarkand-daria, i. 5o-6o; 342-345 ; gets lost in a sand boat-building at Lailik, i. 63- storm, i. 346-347; proceeds 77; drifts down the Tarim, i. toward-; the Kurruk-tagh, i. 77-233, 41o-438 ; habits of 352-373 ; . account of wild work, i. 82-83, 91, 138, 212, camel, i. 356-373 ; describes 288, 426; sails on the river, · wild camel hunts, i. 36o-361, i. 63-65, 97, 158-159; method 366-373 ; ii. 54, 101-102 ; de of measuring river, i. 99; de scribes yardangs, i. 365; account scribes . the poplar woods, i. ' of ancient lake of Lop~nor, i . IIQ-II2 ; maps of Tarim, i. .374-385 ; discovers ruins in II4, 434; describes Kasim's desert, i. 377-384; meets wan fishing, i. 12o-123; explores dering lake, i. 385-388; crosses the Sorun-koll, . i. "I26-129; the new lake on raft, i. 3go- INDEX.
39I ; makes excursions on tagh, ii. 27-28; on Mongol pil Kara-koshun lakes, i. 395-409 ; grims, ii. 30-35; back at Temir sails a canoe on the Tarim, i. lik, ii. 33-36; starts for Anam 4I3-4I4 ; explores Lower Tarim baruin-gol, ii. 37-38 ; sledges lakes, i. 4I4-425 ; and natives across Lake Ghaz, ii. 40 ; of Lop country, i. 420 ; de adventures in Akato-tagh, ii. scribes storm on Beglik-koll, i. 4I-50; tells Shagdur of trip 422-425 ; resumes drift down to Lassa, ii. 54 ; story of Tarim, i. 426-438 ; tormPnted the Dungans, ii. 57-58 ; New by gad-flies, i. 440-44I, 457, Year:'s Eve in desert, ii. 58 ; 492 ; takes down poetry of the in highland basin of Sar Lopliks, i. 442-452 ; and their tang, ii. 65-69 ; sends back ·letters, i. 452-454 ; travels Tokta Ahun, ii. 74-77; crosses through the Kara-koshun lakes, Desert of Gobi, ii. 77-I08; i. 457-459; crosses desert to leads the caravan, ii. 93-97 ; Astyn-tagh, i. 459-467 ; crosses tests levelling instruments, ii. Akato-tagh, i. 468-478 ; ac 99 ; returns to Altimish-bulak, count of Aldat the Afghan, i. ii. I02-I03 ; story of Khodai 470-473 ; travels into Tibet, ¥-ullu, ii. I03-I07; searches for i. 48I-6o8; crosses Chimen Ordek's ruins, ii. III-I24 ; ex tagh, i. 483-489 ; overtaken cavations in Desert of Lop, ii. by darkness, i. 487-488 ; over II3-I38 ; discovers torn MSS., the Kalta-alagan, i. 488-493; on ii. I32-I34; quotes Herr Hirnly marmots, i. 489, 578 ; on kulans, on the discoveries, ii. I34-3I6 ; i. 490-492, 58I, 599; on wild history of Lou-Ian, ii. I39-I50; yaks, i. 493, 577 ; crosses the sends back Faisullah, ii. I53 ; Lower Kum-koll, i. 494-495 ; surveys Lop Desert, ii. I54-I6I; crosses the Arka-tagh, i. 496- anxious ahout Khodai Vardi, 5IO; on Tibetan highlands, i. ii. I54; sends off K":odai Kullu, 5I3-582 ; describes Tibetan ii. I6I ; entangled amongst the quagmires, i. 5I8-5I9, 52I, 574 ; lakes, ii. I62-I66; met bv Cher ii. 236-237, 286, 404, 4I3 ; ad noff and Tokta Ahun, il. I66 ; ventures on a salt lake, i. 53I- Faisullah's story, ii. I6<)-I70 ; 539; tows camels across river, on the Tarim basin, ii. I70- i. 540-544 ; on Tibetan lakes, I74; threads the Tarim lakes, i. 553-56I ; penetrates farther ii. I75 ; reaches Charkhlik, ii. south, i. 564-568 ; describes I76 ; quarters at Charkhlik, Aldat's illness, i. 566-582 ; and ii. I77-I86 ; sends Shagdur to burial, i. 583-584 ; recrosses Kara-shahr, ii. I78-I8I ; pre northern ranges of Tibet, i. pares for Tibet, ii. I82-I86 ; 584-6o5 ; describes gold-mines allows Islam Bai to return of Togri-sai, i. 593-594 ; de horne, ii. I86-I8g ; sends off scribes rock drawings of Togri caravans for Tibet, ii. IgD sai, i. 595-596 ; meets two I94; account of Shereb Lama, hunters, i. 596-599 ; misled ii. I94-I96, 2I3-2I7, 347; Khal by signal-fire, i. 6oo-602 ; met rnet Aksakal accuses Islarn by Islam Bai, i. 6o2-6o6 ; re Bai, ii. I97; investigates charge~ turns to Mandarlik, i. 6o7- against Islam Bai, ii. I<)S : 6o8 ; manner of life, ii. 3 ; steals away from Char khli k. makes trip to Ayag-kum-koll, ii. 205 ; ascends glen of Charkh ii. 4-36; explores Ayag-kum lik-su, ii. 206-2II; takes lesson:-; koll, ii. I2-23 ; in skiff, ii. in Mongolian, ii. 2I3 ; cross\_-::. I7 ; crosses Chimen-tagh by the border-ranges. ii. 2I8-z62 : night, ii. 27 ; crosses Akato- again at the Ayag-kum.-kiill. INDEX.
ii. 222-228 ; arrangement of Sachu- sangpo, ii. 424-428 ; camp, ii. 231-235 ; difficulties again stopped by Tibetans, ii. with quagmires, ii. 236-237, 430, 452 ; amongst Tibetan 286, 404-406, 413 ; describes lakes, ii. 430-582 ; fishes in a bear-hunt, ii. 240-243 ; ~oses Yaggyu-rapga, ii. 438 ; des camels, ii. 248, 264; his men ill, cribes illness and death of Kal ii. 250, 254 ; sets up landmark, pet, ii. 442-451; Turki name of, ii. 252 ; his Mongolian disguise, ii. 451; met by emissaries from ii. 261, 297, 3II ; divides cara Lassa, ii. 452-462, 469, 475- van, ii. 264; pushes on faster, 479,493-494; letter from Dalai ii. 265 ; first contact with Lama, ii. 454-456; account of Tibetans, ii. 275-279 ; gets Tibetan emissaries, ii. 457-462; into a cul-de-sac, ii. 284-286 ; trip on Nakktsong-tso, ii. 463- makes arrangements at fixed 475; causes of Tibetan jealousy, camp, ii. 289-292 ; starts for ii. 470-471 ; photographs Tibe Lassa, ii. 296 ; his head tans, ii. 479 ; trip on Chargu t shaved and painted, ii. 303, tso, ii. 480-491 ; on Addan-tso, 346 ; attacked by ropbers, ii. ii. 491; travels down Boggtsang 305-309; sends back Ordek, ii. sangpo, ii. 495 - 503 ; visits 310-313 ; collects fuel, ii. 314; Erenak-chimmo, ii. 500-503 ; encampment of, ii. 315 ; keeps asks for yaks, ii. 507; camels watch, ii. 317 ; an alarm, ii. and horses break down, ii. 507, 319 ; desire for adventure, ii. 528-532; dealings with Yamdu 321 ; rides through the rain, Tsering, ii. 508-513 ; travels ii. 322-325 ; recovers mule, ii. beside Lakkor-tso, ii. 516-5I9 ; 325 ; visited by Sampo Singhi, down Sommeh-sangpo, ii. 519- ii. 328-335 ; ordered to fetch in 520 ; death of Mohammed horses, ii. 332; describes killing Tokta, ii. 520-523 ; on mountain of sheep, ·ii. 334 ; fords the sickness, ii. 523-524; measures Sachu-sangpo, ii. 337-338 ; and ancient beach lines, ii. 524- the tea caravan, ii. 342-346 ; 527 ; travels beside Perutseh stopped by Tibetans, ii. 352- tso, &c., ii. 532-548 ; interview 383 ; colour of his eyes, ii. 356 ; with chief of Rudok, ii. 539- his tent surrounded by Tibe 540 ; fighting the wind and tans , ii. 358-362 ; visited by bitter cold, ii. 545-576; travels Tibetan spies, ii. 362-367 ; by beside Tsangar-shar, ii. 549- Mongolian interpreter, ii. 368- 557 ; on travelling in Tibet, ii. 374; visited by Kamba Bombo, 553-554 ; on and beside Tso ii. 376-383 ; visits Kamba Bom ngombo, ii. 559-568 ; beside bo, ii. 384; taken for an En Panggong-tso, ii. 569-577; met glishman, ii. 385; rejects Kamba by relief caravan, ii. 575, 577 ; Bomba's horses, ii. 385-386; the last of Yolldash, ii. 578 ; starts back for camp, ii. 387- pushes on to Leh, ii. 582-590 ; 388 ; escorted by Tibetans, ii. telegram from King Oscar, ii. 388-399; returns to head 590 ; from Lord Curzon, ii. 590 ; quarters camp, ii. 400-407 ; Christmas Eve at Leh, ii. 593 ; met by Sirkin and Turdu Bai, travels from Leh to Srinagar, ii. ii. 406; back at headquarters 597-6o3 ; across the Zoji-la, ii. camp, ii. 407-410 ; has a bath, 599-6o3 ; from Srinagar to ii. 408 ; again travels south, ii. Rawalpindi, ii. 6o3-6o5 ; refits 4II, &c. ; questions shepherds of at Lahore, ii. 6o5 ; arrives at J ansung, ii. 417-423 ; again sur Calcutta, ii. 6o6-6o7; received rounded by soldiers, ii. 423-:- by Lord Curzon, ii. 6o7-6o8 ; 429, 432 - 441 ; drifts down at Bombay, ii. 6ro; at Jaipur, INDEX.
ii. 6II ~ at K~rtarpur, ii. 6II ; Bash-kurgan, "the Fortress at recrosses Zoji-la. ii. 613-6IS ; the Head of the Glen," i. 466. says good-bye to Shagdur, ii. Bashlik, " hood," i. 255 ; ii. 213, 616-617 ; leaves Leh, ii. 618 ; 379· visits temple of Himis, ii. 621- Bash-tograk, i. 336, 338. 628 ; return via Kashgar, Osh, Bash-yoll, i. 467. and Caspian, ii. 628 - 630 ; Bass, Miss, ii. S93· reaches home, ii. 630 ; received Batir, " the hero" (i.e., Khodai by King Oscar, ii. 630. Kullu), ii. 170. Avras, ·pass of, i. 488, 497· Bayir, " depression," i. 243· Avu:lu-koll, i. 362. Bayirs, of Takla-makan, i. 247, Avvat, i. 149; beg of, i. rso. 249, 263-28S; near Ettek Ayag-arghan, i. 429. terim, i. 317-318. Ayag-kum-koll, i. 49S. 496 ; ii. Bayley, Mr. C. S., ii. 607. II-23 ; author sails across, ii. Beach-lines, ancient, of Jaggtseh 12-20; depth of, ii. 12-19 ; ice tso, ii. 496 ; of Lakkor-tso, ii. on, ii. 24 ; shore of, ii. 2S, 223 ; SI7, S24, 527; of Luma-ring temperature of, ii. IS-19. tso, ii. S36; of Panggong-tso, AyHi.ma, i. 29. ii. S82.; of Selling-tso, ii. 432, Ayrilghan, or Arghan, i. 319 434, 472 ; of Tso-ngombo, ii. Ayvan, "verandah," i. 147. S6I, S62. . . Bears, in captivity, i. 30; Tibetan, BABA-KOLL, i. 304. i. 477· S74. S78-S79; ii. 218, Baba Tarim, or Old Father Tarim, 24 ished at, ii. 424 ; Turki name Bragger, Professor, i. 3· for, i. 209. Browning, Prof. Oscar, ii. 609. Boat (and canoe) excursions, on Buddha, ancient image of, ii. I25- Addan-tso, ii. 491; on Ayag I26 ; as burkhan, ii. 460. kum-koll, i. 494-495 ; ii. I2- Bughra, " male camel," i. 360 ; 23; on Beglik-koll, 421-425; ii. 229. on Chargut-tso, ii. 480-491 ; on Bujentu-bulak, i. 342, 343· Kara-koshun lakes, i. 395-409, Buka-shirik, " yak grass," ii. 271. 457-459; ii. 175; on Nakktsong Buluk, or bulak, " spring of tso, ii. 463-475; on the Sachu water," ii. 38. · sangpo, ii. 426-428; on Sorun · Bulung," back-stream," i. g8, u3. koll, i. 127-129; on Tarim, i. Bulunghir-nor, ii. 65, 66. 63-65, 97. IS8-I59. 413-414. Bulut, " cloud of dust," i. 245. See also FERRY-BOAT. Buran, kara. See KARA-BURAN, Boat, commissariat, i. 91, 94, 104, SARIK- BURAN, and SAND 176, 200, 202; given to people STORMS. of Yanghi-koll, i. 416. Burial-place, at Chegghelik-uy, i. Boat, ferry. See FERRY-BOAT. 435; beside Cherchen-daria, i. Boating terms, Turki, i.. 94· 308; of Habdan Buzrugvar, Boatmen of Lailik, i. 63, 92, 161, i. 54 ; in Lop Desert, i. 342 ; of 200-201, 206, 225, 236. See Masar Khoj am, i. q6 ; of also ALIM AHUN, KASIM AHUN, Masar-tagh, i. II9 ; at Sai NASER AHUN, and PALTA; and tagh, i. 134, 139 ; LoPLIKS. Buriat Cossacks, i. 322-325 ; · ii. Boggtsang-sangpo, ii.495-501. 276, 347· See also CHERDON Boghana, bushes, i. 477· and SHAGDUR. Bokalik, mines of, i. 470; ii. 197. Burkhan, "image of Buddha," ii. Bolarum, ii. 610. 380, 394· 460. Boljemal, " backwater," i. 143. Burkhans, Land of the, i.e., Tibet. Bolta, " strait," i. 418. Buya-koll, i. 195. Bomba, Tibetan province, ii. 512. Bombay, ii. 610. CABIN, black, of ferry-boat, i. 71, Bonin, M., i. 245, 252, 255, 257 ; 73. 77· . ii. 8s. Cairns of stones, as land-marks, Bonjin-tso, pass, ii. 531. i. 461 ; ii. so, 78, 252, 415. Bontsa, ii. 363. And see 0Bo. Bonvalot, M., i. 85, 252 ; ii. 337· Calcutta, ii. 6o6. Books, i. 5, 457, 513; ii. 23, 178, 217. · Camel,· that hated passes, i. 518, Border Ranges of Tibet. See 522 ; ii. 244-245 ; a runaway, TIBET, NoRTHERN BoRDER i. 324 ; a veteran, ii. 259· RANGES OF. Camels, tame, i. 371; arriving at Bordoba, or Bor-teppeh, i. 19, 26. Leh, ii. 591; attacked by gad Bostan, i. 173. flies, i. 457 ; bought in Charkh Bostan-tograk, i. 303, 304. lik, ii. 181 ; breakdown of,· ii. . Bosuga, valley, i. 24 .. 245, 262~264, 507; 528-532; Bower, Captain, route of, ii. 414, breeding, i. 314, 358 ; caravans, 496, 549· i. 26, 35, 47, 273, 414, 499, 540, Boxer movement; i. 454; ii. 170. 546 ; ii. 148, 155, 229, 230, 271 ; Brahmins, ii. 6os. death of in Takla-makan, i. Briars, wild, ii. 209. 279; fighting propensities, i. Bridge above Gulcha, i. 19 ; 314 ; fondness for wild garlic, across Ilek, i. 403 ; . of the ii. 266 ; fording rivers, i. 540, Kirghiz, i. 19 ; over the Kizil 546 ; ii. 271 ; glissade down su, i. 46; at Tikkenlik, i. 407. sand-dunes, i. 273 ; loaded, i. INDEX. 273 ; ii. 39 ; in quagmire, ii. i. 2I, 24, 31, 37, 53; ii. 25, 405; run away, i. 440; ii. 536; 230 ; of sheep, ii. 558, s6o, shed their coats, i. 518; on s68 ; of yaks, ii. 34~. 345-346, shore of Kum-koll, ii. 225 ; in 348,. SIS, 563. snow, i. 289 ; starting for Tibet, Caravan-bashi, "leader of cara- ii. 229· van," i. 13, 236, 255 ; ii. 37· -- foals, ii. I8I, 193, 224, Carey, Mr., i. 85. 229, 247, 250, 504, 531, 547· Caspian Sea, i. 8 ; ii. 628. - the wild, i. 353, 356-373 ; Cassel, Sir Ernest, ii. 609. ii. 93 ; breeding season, i. 357; Cataracts, in Tarim, i. IOI, IOS, dead, ii. 102 ; in Desert of 400, 426 .. Gobi, ii. 82 ; flesh of eaten, i. Caucasus Mts., i. 7· 374; habitat of, i. 357; head Caves, on Erenak-chimmo, ii. 503; of, i. 370 ; . lassqed by, at Ternirlik, i. 603, 6o8 ; in Khodai Kullu, ii. 54 ; .myste Northern Tibet, ii. 218. rious traces of, ii. 414 ; range of, Chahr-bagh, i. 68. i. 358 ; sense of smell, i. 356 ; Chakkandeh, scrub, ii. 78. shyness of, i. 357 ; skeleton, ii. Chang-an, ii. I45· 102-103 ; wounded, ii. IOI. Chang-la, pass of, ii. 582, 593, Camera, Watson's, i. 4; vera 618, 621. scope, i. s. 295· Chanto, " Mussulman," ii. 353· Camps, at Anambaruin-gol, ii. 55 ; Chao Po-nu, ii. 146. at Charkhlik-su, ii. 207 ; in Chapan, " cloak," i. II3. Desert of Gobi, ii. 83, 85 ; at Chappgan, " reed-pass." i. 395, Jong-duntsa, ii. 63 ; in Lop 405. Desert, ii. 104~ 167 ; . at Lu Charchak-tagh, " the mountain of chuentsa, ii. 75 ; at Mandarlik, the Wearied Ones," i. 351. i. 471, 477; beside Panggong Chardjui, i. ro. tso, ii. 575 ; beside the Tarim, Chargut-tso, ii. 480-492, 496 ; i. 89, 121, 165 ; at Temirlik, altitude of, ii. 475 ; islands in, i. 603; ii. 5 ; in Central Tibet, ii. 483, 485 ; storm on, ii. 482- ii. 267, 315, 403; in Northern 489 ; view of, ii. 473· Tibet, i. SIS, sss, 593 ; ii. Charkhlik, amban of, i. 408, 420 ; 9, 13, 40, 289 ; in Western author at, ii. 176, 179 ; caravan Tibet, ii. 509, 5I7, 52I, 525', 529, ready to start from, ii. 191 ; 533, 537, 546, 547, 577; at cultivation at, i. 400; glen of, Unkurluk, ii. 215 ; at Yaggyu ii. 207, 2II ; quarters at, ii. rapga, ii. 439 ; at Yanghi 177 ; reservoir at, ii. 187 ; koll, i. 239. stable-yard at, ii. 183 ; tem Canoes, i. 173, 179, 192, 197 ; perature at, ii. 185 ; Togdasin on Beglik-koll, i. 425; double, i. Beg of, i. 313-314 ; ii. 3, 206. 227 ; dragging overland, i. 329 ; Charkhlik-su, ii. 190, 206, 209. on · Ilek, i. 404, 407; at a Charvak, i. 125. night-camp, i. 407 ; amongst Chegghelik-uy, i. 400, 434, 437 ; the reeds, i. 399 ; sailing, i. burial-place at, i. 435 ; ferry 413 ; of Tarim, i. 175, 179, boat left at, i. 437; stable at, 201 ; triple, made by Cossacks, i. 435· i. 436, 438 ; on Ughen-daria, Chemo-t6-na, ii. 145. i. 227. Cherchen, i. 295 ; desert of, i. Canvas Boat. See BoAT, CANVAS. 293· Caravan of asses, ii. 236, 238, 239 ; Cherchen-daria, i. 292, 307, 3II, of camels, i. 26, 35; 47, 273, 312, 438 ; on bank of, i. 3n ; 414, 499· 540, 546 ; ii. 148, burial-place beside, i. 308 ; 155, 229, 230, 271 ; of horses, frozen, i. 3I3; old bed of, i. INDEX. 274, 306, 307; shepherd of, i. Kara-koshun on raft, i. 390; 294 ; temperature in, i. 3I3. boat excursions, i. 39S ; escorts Chernyayeva, i. II ; ii. 628. caravan to mou~tains, i. 4I4; Cherdon, Tseren Dorshi, i. 323- ordered home, 1. 43I; comes 324 ; portraits of, i. SIS, S7S ; back to Abdall, i. 439 ; sets out ii. 7, 3I ; characteristics, i. for Kashgar, i. 4S8 ; makes s62 ; learns Turki, i. 408 ; maps of Lower Tarim, ii. I66; as body-servant, i. 48I ; ii. sent back to author, ii. I66 ; I78 ; hunts yaks, i. 48I, meets author at Kara-koshun, 493, S73, S7S, S77. S78 ; ii. I66; beside Kara-koshun, ii. ii. 29; lassoes sheep, i. 486; I69 ; boatman to author, ii. overtaken by darkness, i. 487 ; I73 ; at Charkhlik, ii. I78 ; captures wolf cub, i. 493, S39 ; in command of caravan, ii. reconnoitres, i. SOI, sos, SI9 ; I78, I93, 223, 23S, 264, 409 ; care for his horse, i. so6 ; his with baby camels, ii. ISS; horse dies, i. SI4-SI7 ; hauls brings up caravan, ii. 223 ; author's boat ashore, i. S39; slightly unwell, ii. 2S4; left in cooks' yak steaks, i. S47; ac charge of failing camels, ii. companies author South, i. S64; 264 ; brings in camels, ii. 407- finds Aldat ill, i. s66; treats 408; catches watchmen asleep, sick mule, i. sBB ; shoots young ii. 409 ; looks after Kalpet, ii. K ulan, i. S96 ; goes to N. Tibet, 4I4, 434 ; visits Erenak-chim ii. 4 ; with hunting trophies, ii. mo, ii. soo-so3 ; makes a side 7, 3I ; goes hunting, ii. II ; excursion, ii. so7 ; catches fish, helps Togdasin, ii. I2; left at ii. soB, sso, SS3, SS7 ; sounds headquarters camp, ii. 36; Tso-ngombo, ii. s62, s63, s68 ; learns meteorology, ii. 36; sent sounds Panggong-tso, ii. s69, to Kara-shahr, ii. I8I ; joins S73 ; accompanies author to caravan at Abdall, ii. I94; Leh, ii. S8I, S82 ; left at Leh, shoots partridges, ii. 26I; accom ii. 594 ; returns home, ii. 628 ; panies author towards Lassa, receives medal and order, ii. ii. 299; shoots wolf, ii. 27S; 630. See also CossAcKs. pursues robbers, ii. 3I3 ; sur Chichek, "smallpox," i. 226. prises Tibetan hunters, ii. 409 ; Chiggan-choll, i. I38. finds bladders of lard, ii. 433 ; Chiggeh, " rush," i. 280, 320. kills wild-duck, ii. 434; finds Chigghelik, i. 477· author, ii. 49I; accompanies Chigherchigh, pass, i. I8. author to Leh, ii; s82 ; left at Chimen, i. I7S; valley of, ii. 7, 2I8. Leh, ii. S94 ; returns home, Chimen-tagh, i. 483, 48S, · S99 ; ii. 629 ; receives medal and journeys across, i. 482-486 ; order, ii. 630. See also Cos ii. 27 ; main crest of, i. 47S ; SACKS. main pass, ii. 8; orographical Chernoff, Cossack, i. 42, 32S ; por structure of, i. 48S ; ii. 24 ; traits of, i. 42, 47, 32S, 383; China, political ·relations with meets author at Arelish, i. 230; Tibet, ii. 380. reconnoitres Takla-makan, i. Chinese ambans, i. IIg, 408, 420, 2SO; retained by author, i. 324 ; . 4S3-4S4, 4S7 ; ii. I77 ; fish in sand-stofii1,. i. 346 ; shoots caravan, ii. 74; in Lop country, partridges, i. 3S4 ; hunts wild i. 24S, 37S, 407 ; money, i. 40 ; camel, i. 3S4, 360, 366 ; shoots ii. I3S, 140, .SIS, S3S; pro wild -duck, i. 37S ; discovers curator, i. 63 ; secretary, i. 301. ruined houses, i-. 377 ; amongst .Chinneh-bagh, Mr. Macartney's rums in Lop Desert, i. · 383 ; house, i. 46. · finds a ford, i. 388 ; crosses Chivillik-koll, i. 24s, 320,406, 407. INDEX. Chokka-tagh, i. I2S-I27; a walk See also CHERDON, CHERNOFF, across, i. 129-133 .. SHAGDUR, and SIRKIN. Chokk-jalung, gold mines of, ii. Cowrie shells, ii. 143. S39· . Crustacreans, i. S47·· · Choll, " pool," i. 320. Curzon, Lady, ii. 607-608. Choll-koll, i. 128, 129. Curzon, Lord, i., iii., vi. ; ii. 189, Chong-ak-kum, "Great White De- S90, 607-8. sert," i. 19S· Czar of Russia, i. v., 4, 432 ; 11. Chong-daria, or Tarim, i. I9S· 189, 630. Chong-koll, or" Big Lake," i. 402. Chong-kum," Great Sand," i. 243. DAKKYEH, an old Tibetan, ii. Chong mahma:ri, " distinguished 364, 397· guest," i. 191. Da-kuren, i.e., Urga, ii. 367. Chong-shipang, i. 307. Dalai Lama, ii. 347, 367 ; letter Chong-tograk, beg o'f, i. 202. from, ii. 4S4-4SS ; present· to, Chora, "powdered cheese," ii. 333. ii. 34· Chorten, "monumental pyra- Dalgleish, Mr., i. Ss. mid," ii. S8I, S98, 62I, 62S. Danc~rs, of Ladak, ii. S8I. Christmas Eve in the Desert, i. Dancing girls, i. 76 ; ii. 603. 270, 271 ; at Leh, ii. S93· Dandan Uilik i. vii. Christmas pit, in Takla-makan, i. Dandies, " palankins," ii. 613. 27!. Dao Tai, "Chinese Procurator," Chronometers, i. 3, II ; ii. 290. i. 63. Chuchepp, " temple draperies," Darghillik, i. 407. ii. 62S. Dashi, " salt-pool," i. 320. Chugulup, " loop of river," i. 136. Dashi-koll, canal, i. 218; lake, Chukker-su, or akin, " trench in i. 230. river bottom," i. 94· Dasht, steppe, i. 33· Chulluk-akkan, i. 497. Dastarkhan, "repast," i. 17, 99, Churing, ii. S03, soB, SII. 149· Clay deposits, in desert, i. 376 ; Davaghan, _ "marmots." See ii. 87, 123; towers, in Lop desert, MARMOTS. i. 338, 342, 343, 378, 381 ; ii. Davato, ii. 69. III-II3,II6,II9-I2I,I30,I36. Davo Tsering, ii. S3I, S32, S3S· Clcecocca vermicifera, ii. I49· Day-fly, in desert, i. 272. Cloth, Chinese, ii. 334· Dead Sea, Tibetan, i. S36. Clouds, beside Tarim, i. 2IS ; m Deasy, Captain, ii. S40. N. Tibet, i. S47· Deer, i. 328, 391, 419. Cobb, Mr., ii. 6II. Demavend, Mount, author's as- Cocaine, ii. 2S4· cent of, ii. 266. Coins, Chinese, ii. 140, SIS, S3S ; Dengkang, " temple," ii. 622. copper, ii. I3S· See also Depths in Kara-koshun lakes, i. MoNEY. 391, 396, 401, 403-404; of Cossacks, i. v., 42, 322-32s ~ at ·Tibetan lakes, i. S32, SS4 ; ii. Yanghi-koll, i. 410; make 466. See also TARIM, MEASURE canoes, i. 413, 436 ; on ferry MENTS OF. boat, i. 419, 430; discipline of, Desert, see GoBI, DESERT OF; i. 427 ; fish in Tarim, i. 430 ; LOP, DESERT OF; TAKLA-MA at Chegghelik-uy, i. 436 ; at KAN, DESERT OF. Abdall, i. 441; go hunting, ii. Devashung, ii. 430, 4SS· 3 ; bring up caravan, ii. 223 ; Digo, glen of, ii. 394· stumble across Tibetans, ii. 27S; Dilghi, i. 407. threaten Tibetans, ii. 429; Dillpar, i. 33S, 336. fish in. Yaggyu-rapga, ii. 438. Distaffs, ii. I43· INDEX. Divers, birds, i. 391. Edward VII. ii. 590. Doddap-tso, lake, ii. 532. Eisa Ahun, father of Aldat, i. 584; Dog, native, mauled by wolves, ii. 182. . i. 300. Elreagnus hortensis, yiggdeh, i. Doggtsang Raspa, incarnation, 316, 351. ii. 626-627 ; door of temple, Elburz, Mount, ii. 476. ii. 615 ; idol of, ii. 619, 622. · Elephant, ii. 6o6. Doggung, " temple," ii. 622. Elephanta, India, ii. 610. Dogs, author's, i. 17, 98, 171, Ephemeris, day-fly, i. 272. 237-238, 327, 414, 461-462, Erenak-chirnrno, ii. 50o-503. 481 ; ii. 37, 229, 264, 296, 317 ; Erkeh Jan, ii. 58. portraits of, i. 463 ; ii. 439 ; Eski-daria, "abandoned arm of attack tame yaks, ii. 423 ; river," i. 94· attack wild yaks, ii. 270, 282. Ettek-tarirn, i. 312, 314-315, 318. Dolan-kernizi, i. 160. E-tun, ii. 149· Dollrna, idol of, ii. 619, 622. Everani, i. 429. Dornba, "bowl," ii. 351. Dovlet (I.), i. 17, 24, 82, 135 ; FA-HEEN, ii. H5. 149· . HI.), i. 1J6. Faisullah, i. 40, 401 ; portrait of, Dovlet Caravan-bashi, ii. 182, i. 239 ; meets author at Arelish, 194. 224, 236, 244. i. 230 ; takes charge of camels, ·Dragon Town, or Lung-thshong, i. · 236 ;. ii. 37, 153; recon ii. 140, 144. noitres, i. 246; ii. g8; on the Draz, ii. 599· habits of camels, i. 324 ; starts Driftwood, i. · 103, 104, 167, for Kurruk-tagh, i. 335 ; boat 172. . excursions, i. 395 ; meets cara Dromedary, i. 324; ii. 38, 281. van, i. 667 ; trail of his caravan, Drugub, ii. 581; 582. ii. 169-170; · his report, ii; Drying clothes, in Tibet, i. 515. 175-176; returns ·horne, ii. Dry Mountains. See KcRRUK- 189 ; given silver medal, ii. 630. TAGH. Falconers, i.' 150. Dua, "prayer," i. 302, 584. Fegrreus, Dr., i. II. Duck, wild, i. 129, 328, 344, 39o- Fenn, Col., ii. 607, 609, 6n. · 391 ; ii. 157, 160, 544, 561. Ferenghi, or Fereng, ii. 355· Duga-jayi-masar, i. 138. Ferghana, i. 12, 18. Dukhavskoi, i. II. Ferry-boat, i. 66, 77, 181 ; aban Dundu-narnuk, "the Middle . doned, i. 436 ; aground, i. 104 ; Spring," i. 477· in danger, i. 167, 199 ; ice Dungan, a mule, ii. 348. bound, i. 234; left at Cheg Dungans, ii. 57, 58. ghelik-uy, i. 437 ; reconstruc Dung-khan, or Sa-chow, 1. 245, tion of, i. 41o-4II ; in the reeds 344; ii. 69. . of Tci.vadaku-kpll, i. 423 ; view Dung-kotan, i. 173, .186. from, i. III ; an ordinary, of Dunglik, i. 460, 461. Tarim, i. 79, r6o. Dural, i. 320 ; arnban of, i. 420. Feth Ali Shah, portrait of, ii. 622. Durgaz, "policemen," i. 46, 53· ~ish, at altitude of 16,500 feet, Dutara, " stringed instrument," · ii. 282; ·in Boggtsang-sangpo, i. 75. 442- . ii. 499-500 ; as decorative ob-. Dutreuil de Rhins, i. 252 ; ii. 375· j ect, ii. 126 ; food of Lopliks, i. 451 ; skin, sign of ownership, EAGLES, i. 419, 557 ; ii. 416, 465 ; i. 199 ; in a Tibetan lake, i. hunting, i. 149· 552-553 ; Tibetan objection to, Ear-ring, ii. 143. ii. 44I ;_ . traps for, i. 156 ; in Earth-caves, valley of, ii. 218. Tsangar-shar, ii. 550, 557 ; in VOL. II. 41 INDEX. Yaggyu-rapga, ii. 438 ; in Gnats, on Tarim, i. g8, 106, II2, Yanghi-koll, i. 250. 404, 430; inN. Tibet, i. 469, 477· Fishing, Lopmen's methods, i. Goat, kokkmek, ii. 415 .• 416. 190, 418, 552; in Tarim, i. 205, Gobi, Desert of, ii. so-Io8, 8I ; 430; apparatus at Tellpel, i. 169. author crosses, ii. 77-108; camp Fish Mountain, i. 554· in, ii. 83, 85 ; clay terrace in, Fish-spear, i. 245. ii. 87, 123 ; ice in, ii. 77, go ; Floating islands, i. 406. postal service through, ii. 136; ·Flute-player, ii. 626. See also sand-dunes, ii. 81, 86; tama MusiCIANS. risks in, ii. 78 ; temperature in, Folding-boat. See BoAT, CANVAS. ii. 62, 6g, 86, go ; teresken in, Fording the two Kizil-sus, i. 26- ii. 57, 78 ; searching for water 30,31, 33, 37; the Sachu-sangpo, in, ii. 91, 95-97. . ii. 336-339 ; unnamed Tibetan Golden Ears, mule, ii. 195, 332. rivers, i. 540, 543 ; ii. 249, 271. Gold-hunters, i. 470,481 ; ii. 197. Forest, beside Ettek-tarim, i. 316 ; Gold-mines, in Tibet, i. 470, of the Tarim, i. IIO, II2, 146, 593; ii. 197, 539· 151, 179, Igo, 209, 434; dead, Gollmeh-ketti, "Lake of the Lost beside Kurruk-tagh, i. 351. Fishing-net," i. 414. Fotu-la, ii. 598. Gom-jima, ii. 321. Foxes, in desert,-i. 280, 287, 391. Gompa, "monastery," ii. 627. Fu-keae-tsu, ii. 148. Gong-gakk, ii. 398. Fu Tai, governor-gen. of Urumchi, Goose, of the ferry-boat, i.IOJ,32J. i. 191. Gotsang, ii. 626. Grapes, i. 75· GABET, M., ii. 4JO. Grass, of Tibet, ii. 244, 271, Gad-flies, in desert, i. 460; on 273, 407 ; white, ii. I49· Lower Tarim, i. 421, 430, 434, Gravel-and-shingle, ii. 70 ; ter 440, 457 ; in Tibet, i. 492. races of, ii. 548, SSI, ss8. Gadyiz, i. 174. Greyhound, author's, i. 237, 337, Ganderbal, Naib-i-tesildar of, ii. 439, 462-; Tibetan, ii. 390. 613. Grotto, in Erenak-chimmo, ii. 503. Ganges, River, ii. 6os-6o6. Guides, to Andereh, i. 303 ; in Garchu-sanghi, river, ii. 321, 336,. Kara-koshun lakes, i. 196, 392, 393. 401. 400, 458 ; Mongol, ii. 59, 70 ; Garlic, wild, ii. 266. on Tarim, i. 108, 134, IJI, 173, Gavo, " case for talisman," ii. 183, 190, 427 ; in North Tibet, 363, 393. 394 i. 470, etc. Gaz-nor, or Ghaz-nor, i. 470, 477 ; Gulang Hiraman, ii. 577; por- ii. 39-41 ; author sledges across, traits of, ii. SJI, 583. ii. 40 ; temperature at, ii. 41. Gulatsh, " fathom," i. 293· Geese,. wild, i. 99, 155, 344 : ii. Gulcha, i. 18. 239 ; returning to E. Turkestan, Gulcha-daria, i. 18. .i. 327·; inN. Tibet, i. 548, 557; Gulls, in Kara-koshun lakes, i . in \V. Tibet, ii. 495, 544 ; at 391 ; in Central Tibet, ii. 467, Yanghi-koll, i. 328. 469 ; in N. Tibet, i. 557 ; ii. I73· Ghari, ii. 612. Gumbez, " mausoleums," i. 54, Ghaz-nor, or Gaz-nor, i. 470, 477 ; IIg, 134, 139, 146, 342, 343· ii. 39-41 Gyldenstolpe, Count, i. 5; ii. 3· Ghopur-alik, pass of, ii. 27, 28. Guristan, " burial-place," i. 342. Glaciers on Kara-korum, ii. 629; in Tibet, i. 523 ; ii. 282. HABDAX BUZRUGVAR, i. 54· Glen, curious double-storied, ii. Haddik, " scarf of honour," ii. 44. 45, 47· 373. 460, 493· INDEX. Hai, " sea," ii. i3g. 6I7 ; kitchen at, ii. 623 ; Prior Hail, in N. Tibet, i. 548, 55- of, ii. 6I6, 62I, 626:-627; temple Hakim, beg of Merket, i. 673. of, ii. 62I-628. Hamdung, ii. 454- Himly, Prof., i. vii. ; ii. I34, Hamrah, dog, i. ISO, I57 ; ii. I39-I44· 264, 439, 5I7. Hina-yana, ii. I49, I5o. Hamra Kul, appointed att-bashi, Hindi, or India, ii. 398. ii. 227, 53I ; ill, ii. 248, 250, Hippti, ii. 5g8. . 504 ; stays with failing camel, Hiung-nu, or Huns, ii. I40, 146- ii. 288; wants to return, ii. 148 .. 290, 4IO ; emotion at author's Hlajeh Tsering, stops author, ii. departure for Lassa, ii. 296 ; 453; ii. 459-462, 492~494; por found in a ravine, ii.· 503 ; brings trait of, ii. 457; anxiety of, ii. in Mohammed Tokta, ii. 520; 469 ; has to return home, ii. returns home, ii. 594· 475 ; gives author horses, ii. Han dynasty, ii. I39 476. Haramuk-lurumak, ii. J2I. Hogberg, Mr., i. 45- Hares, in Desert of Gobi, ii. 97 ; Holy Books, Land of the, i.e., . in Kurruk-tagh, i. 339 ; in Tibet, ii. 470. See TIBET. ·Lop Desert, i. 39I ; in Central Holy .Council of Lassa, ii. 430, Tibet, ii. 299, 495 ; in N. Tibet, 455- i. 557; ii. 247, 27I ; in \V. Horses, author's, stolen, ii. jos- Tibet, ii. 495· 309 ; break down, ii. 507, 528, Harvey, Sir Robert and Lady, ii. 550; caravans, i. 2I, 24, JI, 6I2. 37, 53; ii. 25, 230; given to Hasheklik, ii. 2IJ, 214. author by Kamba Bombo, ·.ii. Hassanak-dari~, i. I87. 385-386 ; by Hlajeh Tsering, Hassan Beg, of Teiz-koll, i. 2I8. ii. 476; as present to Dalai Hassemet-tokai, i. I72. Lama, ii. 34 ; on shore of Hattik Kessel, "hard sickness," Ayag-kum-koll, ii. 25; Tibetan, ii. 444- ii. 390, 42J. Hawk, i. n8. Houses, ruins of in Lop Desert, Hazrett Ali Masar, i. ng, I20. ii. III, II~ IIg, I2J~ . Hazrett-i-Akhtam Rezi Allahu Hsian-Tsang, or Hwen-thsang, ii. Anhu, i. I46. 140, I45, .Iso. Hedgehogs, i. 39I Hiian-Tshuang, or Hwen-thsang, Heidenstam, M., L 457. ii. 140, I45. ISO Hendriks, Father, i. 45 ; ii. 628. Huc, M., ii. 470. Hermes, gem, ii. I40- Hui Tu-chi, ii. I48, I49· Hettasch, Mr." and Mrs., ii. 593, Hunglugu, i. 462. 6I7. Huns, ii. I40, I46-I48. . Heun-nu, or Huns, ii. I40, I46- Huo-thsiian, coinage, ii. 135, 140. I48. Huts, at Aktarma, i. 251 ; at Highlands, Tibetan. . See TIBET, Lu-chuentsa, ii. 70; at Seit NoRTHER~. koll, i. 230 ; at Sheitlar, i. 321 ; Highways, Ancient, in Desert of at Shudang, i. 299, JOI; at Gobi; i. 252, 338, 344, 375 ; ii. Tura-sallgan-uy, i. 238, 25I. 78, 8g, IJ6. · Hwen-thsang, ii. 140, 145, 150. Himi Chaggtsot. See HIMIS, PRIOR OF. IBEXES, ii. 2I8. Himi-gompa. See HIMIS, TEMPLE Ibrahim, i. 134; 138. OF. Ice, at Altimis.\1-bulak, i. 363 ; in Himis, monastery of, ii. 47I, 6I3- Desert of Gobi, ii. 77, go; on 628 ; courtyard of temple, ii. Tarim, i. I79, I8J, Igg-233 ; VOL. II. 41*. INDEX. disks of on T~rim, i. 206-2I7, Tibet, ii. 4 ; hunting t~ps of, 225; drift, on Lower Tarim, i. i. 97. IIS, I2g, I4I ; 11. II ; 209, 2IO ; in Central Tibet, ii. on Ayag-kum-koll, ii. 2I, 23; 284, 285, 287 .; in \V. Tibet, ii. left at headquarters· camp, ii. 563-568. See also GLACIERS. 36; at Charkhlik, ii. I78; begs Ila, species of gad-fly, i. 492. leave to return, ii. I86; accusa Ileh, " landmark," ii. 50, 4I5. tion against, ii. I97 ; cheats Ileh-su, brook, i. I8. Mussulmans, ii. Ig8 ; jealousy Ilek, river, i. 245; bridge across, i. of Cossacks, ii. I99; his contri 403 ; canoes on, i. 404 ; poplars tion, ii. 200 ; immorality, ii. 200; beside, i. 405 ; volume of, i. trial and punishment, ii. 20I. 403. .See KoNCHEH-DARIA. Istam Beg, i. 205. · Illveh-chiinen, i. 468, 6oo, 6oi ; lttik akkadi, "current flowing ii. 29. fast," i. 94· Inchikkeh-daria, i. · I8o. India, ii. 369, 398 ; author's visit JADE, ii. I49· to, ii. 597-6I2 ; dependency J aggtseh-tso, ii. 495· of, ii. 6o8. J ahan Beg, i. 442. Indi toktamiss, " now we will J aipur, Maharajah of, ii. 6n. stop," i. I8I. J allokk, ii. 363, 368. Indus, river, ii. 586, 597-598, . Jan Daloi, amban of Charkhlik, . 6I8. i. 408, 453, 454, 457 ; ii. I77 ; ' Initshkeh, i. I72. his little son, ii. I82. Instruments, i.3. See ANEOMETER, J andin-tso, lake of, ii. sn. THERMOMETERS, Ere. J angdang, chief of Gong-gakk, Interpreter, Mongolian, n. 368- ii. 398. 374,376. J an-kuli, i. 252. Irkeshtam, i. 30. J ansung, ii. 4I7, 4I9. Irrigation canals, i. SI, 53, 54, J ehlam, valley of, ii. 604. 59; ii. I36. Jen-wan, ii. I47· Isa Hadji, money-changer, i. 40. Jesus, false- MSS. life of, ii. 628. !shan,"" holy-man," i. 299, 573· J ighit, " courier," i. I7, 45, I75· Islam, returns home, ii. 594· See ABDURRAHMAN, MusA, AXD Islam Ahun, of Charkhlik, ii. 254. YAKUB. Islam Ahun, relative of Tokta J imreh, ii. s86. Ahun, ii. 58~ . Jing, I! lb., i. 453· Islam Bai, portraits, i. I2, IS, Jizak, i. II. 47, 223, 23I; meets author at J o, or Lassa, ii. 289. Osh, i. I3 ; his home, i: I4 ; J o-mitsing, ii. 454· tries ford, i. 34; buys stores, i. J ong-duntsa, glen, ii. 63, 7I, 73 ; 4I ; ii. I82 ; finds a ferry ·camels at, ii. 67. boat, i. 63, 8I ; finds camping Jova, monastery of, ii. 582. ground, i. I8o ; mends canv Kader Ahun, of Osh, i. 17, 20 , Kara-buran, "black tempest," 34 ; portraits of, i. 15, 47· i. 203, 331, 346-347. 350, 398, Kadikeh, i. 406. 422-424, ; ii. 94. 158. Kagaz-kemi, "paper boat' i.e., Kara-buran, lake, i. 315, 319, . the canvas boat, i. 209. 365 Kahka, i. 10. Kara-chumak, i. 191. Kainagan-lai, " boiling mud," i. Kara-dashi, i. 173. . 94· Kara-davan, pass, in Astyn-tagh, Kainagan-su, "boiling water," ii. so. i. 94· Kara-davan, pass, on Kashgar Kakir, i. 469. route, i. 33· Kakkmar, "a little bay," i. 418. Kara-dung, in Takla-makan Kalachi, ii. 598. · Desert, i. vii. Kalla-koll, i. 468. Kara-itt, a dog, ii. 264. Kallalik, i. 184. Karakesh, "horse owner," i. 17 ; Kallassteh, " the Hung-up Skull," ii. 594· i. 298. Kara-koll, in Central Asian geo- Kalmak, a dog, ii. 264. graphy, ii. 351. Kalmak-kum, "Sand of the Kal- Kara-kcm, lake, i. 406; ii. 139. mucks or Mongols," i. 147· Kara-korum, pass.of, ii. 628. Kalmak-ottogo, i. 408. Kara-koshun, lakes of, i. 245, Kalmak-yalgazi, i. 87-88. 388, 390-425 ; ii. 161,. 174 ; Kalmucks, or \Vestern Mongols, chappgan in, i. 395 ; boating ii. 139· on, i. 39o-409, 457-459 ; ii. Kalpet, missing, ii. 414; com 175 ; gulls on, i. 391 ; really plains of being beaten, ii. 427, a marsh, ii. 165 ; view from, 430-431 ; his bed on camel, ii. i. 393· 433 ; worse, ii. 434. 442-444 ; Kara-kul, i. 19. in hospital, ii. 443 ; lying dead, Kara-kum, "black sand," i. 6o. ii. 445 ; burial of, ii. 447, 448; Kara-kum, near Korla, ii. 58. grave of, ii. 449, 451. Kara-kum Desert, oases of, i. 10. Kalpet Sound, ii. 464. Kara-muran, river, i. 277, 299, Kalta, i. 39· 301, Kalta-alagan, ii. 9, II, 13, 221, Kara-shahr, ii. 181; amban of, i. · 222 ; journe:y across, i. 488- 420 ; . ii. 459 494· Kara-tograk, i. 160. Kama, " otters," i. 245. Karaul, i. 222; sand-dunes at, Kamba Bombo, ii. 366, 376- i. 229. · 383, 454 ; dress of, ii. 379 ; · Karaulchi, "station-keeper," i.359. author's visit to, ii. 384; giVes Karaul-dung, "Watch- house horses to author, ii. 385 ; eats mound," i. 104. raisins, ii. 386. Karaul-dung, on Tarim, sand-dune Kamber Shang-ya, i. 211. of, i. 106. Kamish, "reeds," i. 104. See Karavan-bashi. See CARAVAN- also REEDS. BASH!. Kamshuk-tyshken-tograk, the Kargil, · ii. 599, 615 ; dancing- " Poplar where the Kamshuks girl of, ii. 603. settled," i. 428. Kartarpur, Palace of, ii. 611. Kan-jugan, i. 39· Karunalik-koll, i. 417, 418. Kao-tshang, ii. 144· Kar-yaggdi, ii. 218. Kaper, " heathen," ii. 232, 471. Kar-yakkak, i. 482. Kappgan, or tosak, "spring-trap," Kash, "earthern bank," i. 92. i. 186. Kashgar, i. 39, 40 ; n. 471 ; Kapurtala, Maharajah of, ii. 611. Chinese town, i. 50 ; market •INDEX . .. of, i. 43; author leaves, i. 47, ·wild camels, i. 354, 360 ; 11. 49, so ; returns to, ii. 628. 53, IOJ-I07 ; takes charge of Kashgar-daria. See KlZIL-su oF wood-carvings, i. 379; goes KASHGAR. to Anambaruin-gol, ii. 37; Kashmir, ii. 603, 6r2 ; Resident draws. author across Lake of, ii. s86. Ghaz, ii. 40 ; digs well, ii. ·Kasim Ahun, i. 92, I04, I2J, I76, gr ; shooting story, ii. IOJ I8I ; portrait of, i. I25 ; finds a I07 ; his spring, ii. I04 ; ice lamb, i. IIS-II6; fishing, i. sheet below his spring, ii. IOS ; I20-I25 ; falls into river, i. his wild camel, ii. I07 ; helps in I48 ; at sport, i. I6I ; pilots the surveying, ii. I54 ; leads camels, way, i. r63 ; gives warning, i. ii. I57 ; sent in search of Tokta r64 ; in danger, i. 200 ; ship Ahun; ii. r6r-r6g; story of his wrecked, i. 202. wanderings, ii. r6g-r70; finds Kasim the on-ba~hi, i. 92, IOJ. Chernoff, ii. r6g; called Batir, . Katta-sarik-tash, i. 26 ii. I70; boatman to author, ii. Kayir, "the Clay Mud Valley,'~ I73; comes to meet author, ii. i. 485. . 407 ; rows author on Chargut Kazghak, "'fox-trap," ii. 58. tso; ii. 48o-48I ; ill, ii. 504 ; Keltie, Dr. J. Scott, i. vi. drags Chernoff across lake, ii. Kemi-bashi, "ship's captain,"· i. 568; left at Leh, ii. 594; re 4I6. turns home, ii. 628. · Kemichis, "boatmen," i. 63, 92·. Khodai sakkladi ! " God has See BoATMEN oF LAILIK. preserved you," ii. 407. · Keng-laika, "Broad Inundated Khodai shukkur ! " God be Tract," i. 294, 306. thanked," ii. 407. Keppek-uy, i. 42r. Khodai Vardi, i. 470 ; brings Keriya-daria, i. vii. relief, i. 6os ; goes to N. Tibet, Ketchik, i. rgr. ii. 4 ; cuts up yak, ii. 29 ; goes Ketteler, Baron von, ii. 380. to AnaiJlbaruin-gol, ii. 37; Kettmeh, well ·of, i. 2g8. left in charge of camels, ii. ro8; Keu-tse (Ouigour ?), ii. I45, I46. misses the way, ii. I54· Khabardar, " look out ! " i. 4JI. Khorem, river, i. IIJ. Khadeh-dung, i. r8s. Khotan, Sand-buried Ruins of, Dr. Khalat, "Kirghiz coat,"- i. IJ, Stein's, i. vii., 304. 4I; a sign of honour, ii. 2or. · Khotan-daria, i. rs6 ; ii. I46. Khalil Bai, i. I74, I76. · Kho-yilga, i. 29. Khalmet Aksakal, i. 2I8, 236, Kibitka, '' teJ;J.t," i. 236. 4IO ; portrait of, i. 239 ; comes Kighiz, " felt mat," i. gr, 359· to Charkhlik, ii. rg6 ; advances . Kim, by Rudyard Kipling, ii. 2I7. a •loan, ii. rg6; accusation King Oscar's Peak, i. 577· against Islam Bai, ii. I97 ; re Kipling, Rudyard, ii. 23, I78. turns home, ii. 206 ; given gold Kirghiz, i. I8, 20, 24, 29 ; bridges medal, ii. 630. of, i. rg. Khan-ambal, or Anambariun-ula, Kirgui Pavan, i. 320, 354, 406, ii. 38, 6I, 6g, 73· 427; joins author, i. 420; on Khan-arik, canal of, i. 54, 59· Beglik-koll, i. 422-424; geo Khanekah," prayer-house," i. I46, graphical information, i. 428 ; 343· about insect plagues, i. 430 ; Khan-tengri, i. I74· on ferry-boat, i. 43I ; recon-· Khara-nur, ii. 35I. noitres the lake, i. 434; dis- Kharoshthi script, ii. I44· . missed, i. 436. Khodai Kullu, i. 335, 34I ; por- Kists, Buddhist, ii. 585, 586. traits of, i. gr, I07 ; hunts Kitchik-daria, " little river," i. 94· INDE¥. • Kitchik-kumdan, glacier of; ii. Kuchar, district of, i. 184. 629 ; pass of, ii. 627. Kuilushning-bashi, i. 142. Kiyik-teleh-choll, " the desert of Kulakchah, i. 402. the antelope willow," i. II5. Kulans, or wild asses, i. 557; ii. Kizil-art, i. 19, 26. 213, 222, 2]1, 299. 441, 495 ; Kizil-arvat, i. 9· dead, i. 6os ; flesh of, eaten, ii. Kizil-kurgan, i. 20.· 232; natural evolutions of, i. Kizil-su, of Alai valley, i. 26-29. 581 ; skin, mark of ownership, Kizil-s.u, of Kashgar, crossing. i. i. 594 ; young, i. 490-492, 599· 29-33,34,37, 148; bridge over, Kulenkeh-tokai, i. 23. i. 46. Kulja, ii. 471. Klemm, M. V., ii. 6ro, 616. Kum, " sand," i. 243· · Kodai-daria, i. n9, 142. Kum-bulak, ii. 27. Kok-ala, "river-arm," i. 320, 401. Kum-bum, ii. 342, 471. Kok-choll-dariasi, i. 171. Kum-chappgan, i. 392, 396; reeds Kokkmek goat, ii. 415, 416. below, i. 437· Kokkon, " gad-flies." See GAD- Kum-chekkeh, i. 403. FLIES. Kum-daria, " the Sand River." Koko-shili Mountains, i. 517. See KURRUK-DARIA. . Koll, "back-stream," i. II3. Kum-darvaseh, i. 46 . Koll, " lagoon," i. 91, 94, 320. Kum-koll, "sand lake,", i. 396. Komul, ice formation on Tarim,. Kum-koll, lakes of, i. 493, 494; i. 206-21], 225. ii. 221-223, 226. Komur - saldi - yoll, " the road Kumutluk, j. 477· where coal was spread," i. 338, Kunchekkan Beg, i. 314, 392, 3]8. 442 ; his father-in-law, i. 445 ; Kona Abdall, ii. I75· his widow, i. 449· Kona-daria, " Old River," i. 94, Kunchekkish-tarim, or Koncheh-. roo, ro6, ro8, 164. daria., i. 241,' 245, 319, 320, Kona-shahr, ancient town, i. 303, 336, 340, 40]. . 342. . . Kurban, of Aksu, i. 236. Koncheh-daria, or Kunchekkish- Kurban, a youth, i. 269, 296; tarim, i. 241, 245, 319, 320, lost, i. 312 ; dis1p.issed, i. 332. · 336-337. 340, 40]. Kurban, or Kirgui Pavail. See Kopet-dagh, i. ro. KIRGUI PAVAN. Koral-dung, the " Watch-hill," Kurban Bai', i. 136. i. 189. Kurbanchik, i. 339, 340. Koral-dungning-koll, i. 189. Kurban-jayiri, i. 421. Korla, i. 338 ; ii. 136 ; aksakal Kurchin, " double knapsack," ii. of, i. 222. _ 232. Korleh, " prayer-wheel," ii. 390, Kurgan, " fort," i. 34· 391, 396. Kuropatkin, General, 'i. v., 9; n. Korolkoff, N.J., governor of East 630. . Turkestan, i. 25. Kunuk-assteh, i. n9, 121. Korun;J.luk-sai, ii. 206. Kurruk-daria, i. 333-355, 361, 365, Koshmet-kolli, i. 314. 375· Kotteklik, or Yanghi-daria, i. .ror, Kurruk-sai, ii. 206. 102.· Kurruk-tagh, i. 333-355, 361, 376 ; Kotteklik-ayaghi, i. i:o2. ii. 94. 98. Kottektu-korruk, i. 209. Kurshab, or Gulcha-daria, i. 18. Kouruk, scrub, ii.. 16, 78. Kushk, i. 9· · Kozloff, M., i. 241, 321, 344 ; Ku-shu-kha, ii. 57· u. 85. · Kutchmet, i. 316. Krasnovodsk, i. 8, 9· Kutchuk, i. 458 ; portraits of, 1. 515, 533, · 575 ; ~haracter of, i. 221-222 ; depth of, i. 554; fish 474, 562 ; leads horses, i. 468 ; ing in, i. 552 ; in \Vestern as boatman, i. 481; returns to Tibet, ii. 516-581. author at night, i. 488; on Lakkor-tso, lake, ii. 516, 517, Upper Kum-koll, i. 494-495 ; 519, 521. rows author across salt lakes, Lakso, " obedience," ii. 364, 366 . .i. 531-540, 558; spends night Lamas, Lamaist, blowing trum beside salt lake, i. 537; fishing pets, ii. 386, 527 ; in festal in North Tibet, i. 553 ; leads attire, ii. 618, 621 ; an old, way in snowstorm, i. 589 ; ii. 357 ; penance of, ii. 367; play helps with horses, ii. 4 ; on ing drum and metal plates, ii. Ayag-kum-koll, ii, 2I, 23; 387; with prayer-wheel, ii. 391; takes back Togdasin the Hmiter reading, ii. 389 ; of Tikkseh, ii. ii. 27; goes to Anambaruin 589. gol, ii. 37 ; looks after signal Lamayuruz, ii. 598. fire, ii. 124 ; helps in surveying, Lamp, copper, from L6u-lan, ii. ii. 154; fishes in Kara-koshun, 115. ii. 161 ; reconnoitres at Kara Lampa-akin, i. 188. koshun, ii. 162 ; announces Landmarks, i. 461 ; ii. 50, 78, 415 ·; approach of caravan, ii. 223; author's, inN. Tibet, ii. 252. comes to meet author, ii. 4<>7 ; -Lani-la, pass of, ii. 303, 332, 345· rows author on N akktsong-tso, Lap-shi-chen, ii. 57· ii. 463 ; on Chargut-tso, ii. Lashin-daria, i. 426. 482-491 ; on Addan-tso, ii. Lassa, ii. 289, 471 ; author's dash 491 ; makes a side excursion, for, ii. 293-410 ; Holy Council ii. 507; left at Leh, ii.· 594; of, ii. 430, 455 ; well known, returns home, ii. 628. ii. 320. Kwen-lun system, i. 483, 488; Lau-lan. See Lou-LA~: temperature in, ii .. 210, 213. Legge, Dr. J., ii. 149. See also TIBET, NORTH, BORDER Leh, town of, ii. 586, 587 ; tesildar RANGES OF. of, ii. 586. - _ Kyiyish, i. 430. Le 1\Iesurier, Capt. E., ii. 003,612, 613. LADAKIS, ii. 571, 577, 600, 614; Le 1\Iesurier, 1\Irs., ii. 003, 612. an old man, ii. 599 ; young Lengher, " hostelry, or guest- woman, ii. 614. house," i. 88,. 301. Lahore, ii .. 6os. Leshlik, i. 161. Lagerlof, Selma, i. 457 ; ii. 178. Li = .358 mile. Lagoons, desert, i. 226, 230. See Liang, or tael, Chinese coin, ii. also LAKES, OF EAST TUR 140, 515, 535· KESTAN. Li Loyeh, or Tokta Ahun, the Lailik, boat building at, i. 63-8q, Hunter, ii. 37 ; reconnoitres, ii. 69 ; building slip, i. 67 ; girl of, 98, 237 ; takes back camels, ii. i. 78 ; tent at, i. 65. 112 ; helps Faisullah, ii. 153 ; Lailik-daria, i. 402. as cook, ii. 194 ; takes part in Lake, new, in formation, i. 385; Tibet journey, ii. 206, etc. ; ii. 171. wants to return, ii. 227, 290; Lakes, of ·East Turkestan, i. 128-· pursues robbers, ii. 313; makes 129,. 195. 225-226, 230, 233. a side excursion, ii. 507 ; shoots 246-250, 374-441 ; ii. 163-176, a wolf, ii. 545 ; his horse dies, 222-227 ; in Central Tibet, ii. ii. 550 ; accused of theft, ii. 554; 432-494 ; in Northern Tibet, i. . returns home, ii. 594· 494-495. 531-539. 541, 549· LimnCEa, " snail-shells," i. 361, 551-562 ;- ii. 12-23, 163-175. 362, 376-377, 381, 384, 392. INDEX. Litt.ledale, i. 85 ; map of, ii. Lung-thshong, "Pragon tov.-n,'' 495-496 ; route of, ii. 496, 500, ii. I40. I44- SI6, 532. L}-nxes, i. 39I. Lochott, " temple lamp," ii. 625. Look-out, a hunter's, i. I96. ~lA, of Lou-Ian, ii. I44. Lop, fishing station of, i. 3I5. ~Iacartney, ~Ir., i. vii., 39, 45 ; Lop, Desert of, i. 384; agriculture ii. 628 ; his house, i. 46 ; paper in, ii. I36 ; in ancient times, in Geog. Jour., ii. I44-ISO. ii. I30 ; Buddhist temple in, Mcs,,iney, Col., i. 46; ii. 6Io. ii. I29 ; burial place in, i. 342 ; l\Iadi, i. 14, I7. cia y deposits in, i. 376 ; ii. 87, ~Ialabar Point, Bombay, ii. 6Io. I23; clay towers in, i. 342; ~Ialchik, dog, i. 327~ 463, 48:1; ; ii. II3, IIg--I2I ; le\·els of, ii. ii. 37. I94, 264, 439; carried I 57, I6I ; poplars in, i. 346, on camel, i. 46I ; has sore foot, 365 ; ii. I24 ; ruins in, i. 342, i. 498 ; author says good-bye 377, 379-38o, 385; ii. II2, II], to, ii. 628. II9, I23, I37 ; sandstorms in, i. Malcolm, Lieutenant, i. 526, 540, 203, 346, 347. 350, 398 ; ii. 583. I58 ; surveying, ii. I53-I6I ; l\Ialenki, dog, i. 327, 463 ; ii. 37, temperature in, i. 350, 352 ; I94, 296; carried on a camel, ii. I6o; velocity of wind in, i. i. 46I ; guards' tent, ii. 3I7 ; 349; view of, ii. II6 ; "ild shows fight to Tibetan dogs, duck in, ii. I57, I6o; wood ii. 342 ; kills rats, ii. 349 ; canings in, i. 378, 384 ; ii. causes alarm, ii. 40I; discovers I25, I2], 133, I35· a bear, ii. 404; author says Lop-kolli, or Kara-buran, i. 3I5. good-bye to, ii. 628 . . Lopliks, Lop-men, i. I88, 237 ; ~Ialgun, bushes, i. 6or. of Abdall, i. 449 ; children, i. l\Iangeleh! "Let us go," i. rSo. 4I5, 4I], 433, 442, 446; fish up l\Iandarlik, glen of, i. 477, 478 ; ship\\Tecked goods, i. 202 ; headquarters camp at, i. 47I, guide author, i. I96, 392, 458 ; 477; start from, i. 479, 483. letters of, i. 452 ; poetry of, ~!ann, ii. 577· 442-454; women, i. 4I7, 433, ~ISS., discovery of, ii. 128, I3I, 442. ~32.!. fabrication of ancient, Lop-nor, ancient lake of, i. 374- 1. Vlll. 389 ; ·modern lakes, i. 333-454; :\laps, i. 5 ; Chernoff's, ii. I66 ; ruins beside, ii: III-ISO. key to transliteration, i. xvi. ; Loppsen, yak caravan leader, ii. ii. xv.; Littledale's, ii. 495- 569. 496; Nain Singh's, ii. 495- Lou-Ian, ii. I34, I39-I50 ; copper 496, 536; Shagdur's, ii. 4; o: lamp from, ii. II5 ; excavating Tarim river, i. II4, 434· earthenware jar, ii. I4I ; finds ~Iar, " fat," ii. 333· from, ii. I43 ; ~ISS. of, ii. I44 ; ~Iarco Polo, i. 365 ; ii. 85. · the name, ii. I36 ; ruins of, l\Iarkham, Sir Clements R., i., vi. ii. rog--Iso. }.Iarmi-gombo, ii. 528. Lon-lan-hai, ii. I39· ~Iarmi-gotsong, ii. 528. Lower Kum-koll. See AYAG- · Marmots, i. 482, 489, 557, 573, Kr:!\1-KOLL. 578 ; ii. 299 ; captured, i. Lu-chuentsa, camp at, ii. 75 ; 578-579· caravan on ice at, ii. 78 ; stone Marshall, Major, ii. 6II. huts at, ii. 70. Masar, " saint's grave," i. 38, 54, Lucknow, ii. 6o6. II9, 302. Lukchin, i. 373· 1\Iasar-alldi, i. I25- Luma-ring-tso, lake, ii. 536. Masar Khoj am, i. I46. Masar-tagh, i. , IIS, n8, 126 ; Mohammed Turdu. ii. 250. shepherd's hut near, i. n6. Mojuk, "cape, or headland," 1. Mashka, dog, i. 237, 337; dies, 418. ' i. 462. ' Mollah, the doctor, i. 468, 474; Mashrab-davan, i. 38. goes hunting, ii. 3; goes to Matchui, ii. 599· Anambaruin-gol, ii. 37 ; dis Mattan, i. ISO. covers pass over Akato-tagh, Measurements, base for, i. 76; ii. 48; discovers MSS., ii. 132 ; methods of, for Tarim, i. gg, helps Faisullah, ii. 153 ; re I72. See further TARIM; also ports Faisullah safe, ii. I75· ALTITUDES, DEPTHS, etc. Mollah, guide from Sai-tagh, i. :Medley, Major, 'ii. 6n. I34, I36, I38, I43. .I45, ISI ; Melik Ahun, i. 366, 37 4· on rubies, i. I4I ; traverses Melons, i. 75, I73· the woods, i. I4I ; recites Merdek-koll, i. 402, 403. prayers, i. I47· Merdektik, i. 402. Mollah Faisullah, i. I7I, I73· Merik, ii. 32I. Mollah Shah, rides to Andereh Merket, i. 63. terem, i. 296 ; portrait of, i. Meschit-sai, "the Mosque Val SIS, 575 ; character of, i. 562 ; ley," ii. 2IO. engaged, i. 306 ; arrives at Mesjid, "a smaller mosque," Abdall, i: 440; leads horses, i. 343· i. 468, 474, 48I ; ii. I94 ; gets Mesjid-sai, " the Mosque Valley," in the mud, i. 496; reconnoitres, ii. 2IO. i. so6-sog, 53I ; ii. 237 ; speaks Meterological instruments, i. 4· about Aldat, i. 573 ; digs Mian, i. 395· Aldat's grave, i. 583 ; sights Midsummer Day~ in N. Tibet, two hunters, i. 596; reports a ii. 248. fire, i. 6oo, 6o2 ; knowledge Min-bashi, "chief." i. I7. of Astin-yol, ii. 85-86 ; rejoins Mines, gold, of Bokalik, i. 470 ; author, ii. I82 ; takes part in of Chokk-jalung,. ii. 539; of Tibet journey, ii. 206; sent to Togri-sai, i. 593-594· meet caravan, ii. 223 ; care ·Min-yoll. i. 39· lessness of, ii. 228 ; appointed Mirab Beg, of IDlug-koll, i. 453· . guide, ii. 239, 243 ;_ wants to Mirabi, i. 327. return, ii. 2go, 410 ; appointed Mirza, " scribe," ii. I66. head of horse-caravan, ii. 503; Mirza Mohammed, ii. 586, 589, returns home, ii. 594· 597· Mollah Toktamet Beg, or Togda Missionaries, at Kashgar, i. 45, Mohammed Beg, i. 294· 46 ; ii. 628 ; at Leh, ii. 593- Molleh-koygan," the Flung-away 594, 6I7. saddle," ii. 8. Mohammed Ahun, the hunter, i. Mollya, or Molldya, i. 301. I08, II2, II3. Momuni-ottogo, i. 2I8, 221. Mohammedans, of Central Asia, Money, Chinese, i. 40, 236; ii. i. 95, 365 ; ii. 36, 20I. See I35, I40, SIS, 535 ; Tibetan, ii. also BoATMEN OF LAILIK and 433. SIS. LoPLIKS. Mongolian language, ii. 213, 261, Mohammed-Ili-lengher, i. 88. 347. 455, 622. Mohammed Niaz, i. 66. Mongols, guides, ii. 59, 70; inter Mohammed Shah, i. I3I. preter, ii. 368-374, 376; Mohammed Tokta, illness of, ii. Khalka, ii. I39 ; of Kurruk 254. 4IO, 427' 442-443. 504, tagh, i. 339 ; moral level of, 507, SI6; death and burial of, ii. 201 ; an old woman, ii. 66 ; ii. 520-523. pilgrims, ii. 30, 34, 205, 354, INDEX. 455 ; of Sando, ii. 65 ; of Sar Nakktsang-tsong. See NAKK· tang, ii. 62-89 ; sell children, ii. TSONG. 535 ;- Tajinur, ii. 535, 543; be Nakktsong, Tibetan province, ii. side the Tarim, i. I47; Turgut, 455 and 45sn. or Torgod, ii. 35, 456; of Tsai Nakktsong-tso, ii. 447, 463-472, dam, ii. 30 ; western, or 496; relations to Selling-tso, Khalka, ii. I39· ii. 472, 492· Moonlight, on river Tarim, i. I45- Namaga,'' spring of water,'' ii. 300. I46 ; on Tarim lakes, ii. I75 ; Namika-la, ii. 598. in Tibet, ii 258, 468, 550 .. Namru, Tibetan province, ii. 398, Moreh, i. I35· 456 . .Mosquitos, i. 42I, 430, 477· Na-ngamba, ii. 632. Mountain-sickness, i. 564-582; Nangra Mountains, ii. 499· ii. 20, 433. 442-45I, 520-523, Na-po-po, ii. I45, ISO. S23-S24 . Naser Ahun, i. 92, I27, I8I; at . Mud-hills, inN. Tibet, i. s20-521. sport, i. I6I ; finds camping Mulbekh, ii. S98-S99· ground, i. I8o. Mulberry trees, i. so; ii. I77· Naser Beg, of Tikkenlik, i 244, Mules, i. 2S6, 324; cure of, i. 588; ·408, 424, 426; joins author, swept away, ii. 2IO ; breaks i. 420 ; letter from, i. 452. loose, ii. 32S ; escapade of, ii. N az, " snuff," i. I38. 348 ; Golden Ears, ii. I9S, 332. Nephrite, ii. I43· Murree, or Murri, ii. 6o4-6o5. New Bokhara, i. 11. Musa, the jighit, i. I7 ; portrait New Year's Eve, in desert, i. 282; of, i. IS; arrives at Cherchen, i. ii. s8. 297 ; goes to Kurruk-daria, i. Ngavang Cho Tsang, ii. 6I6, 622. 335; returns from Ying-pen, i. Niagsu, ii. s64. 345 ; brings letters, i. 428 ; sent Niaz, the gold-seeker, i. 48I ; back to headquarters, i. 496 ; ii. 4 ; character of, i. 562 ; looks after horses, i. 48I ; story of lost sheep, i. 484-485 ; brings. relief, i. 6o5 ; dismissed, digs Aldat's grave, i. S83 ; ii. 3· reports a fire, i. 6oo. Musa Ahun, i. 236. Niaz Baki Beg, ii. I75· Mus-art, i. I74· Niaz · Hadjf, i. 40, 78 ; portrait Musical-box, i. I36, 20I, 43o-43I. of, i. 5I5 ~ on ferry-boat, i. IOO ; Musicians, of Ladak, ii. 58I, s82; meets author at Arelish, i. 230; at Lailik, i. 76 ; of Sheyok, ii. dishonesty of, i. 234; judgment 626. upon, i. 235. . Mus-suyi, " ice-water," i. 255. Niaz Hakim, Beg of Khotan, i. 3I4. Mus-tagh-ata, i. vii. Niaz-koll, i. 402. Nicholas II. See RussiA, CzAR oF. NAGARA, a stringed instrument of Night, on Tarim lakes, ii. I75 ; music, i. 75· · on Tarim river; i. I84, ZI0-211, Nagara-challdi, i. IS, 28, 33· 426, 430 ; in Tibet, i. 5I4 ; Nagma-tso, ii. 491. ii. 468. Nag-tshu. See NAKKCHU. Nimo, ii. I45, ISO. Naib, " secretary," ii. s86. Nishan, " landmark," ii. 36. Naib-i-tesildar, of Ganderbal, u. Niya, i. 298. 6I3. Nobel, M. Emanuel, i. y. 6. N ain Singh, map of, ii. 495-496, Noh, temple village of, ii. .555- S36 ; route of, ii. 496, 549· s6o. ss8. Nakkchu, Tibetan province, ii. 35, Nomads, Tibetan. See TIBETANS .. 303, 345, 374, 393, 45sn., 456, Noms, "sacred books" of Bud SI2. dhists, ii. 539, 622. INDEX. Nordenskiold, Baron Adolf, i. 6; ii. 424; rows author on Sachu ii. 189 , sangpo, ii. 426 ; author's boat Northcote, Lord, ii .. 610. man, ii. 472 ; finds author', ii. Northern Mountains, or Tian- 491 ; fishing in Boggtsang shan, ii. 146. sangpo, ii. 499-500 ; accused Noyyin," chief, or officer," ii. 353· of theft, ii. 554 ; sent across Numet Beg, the elder, i. 448. the Tso-ngombo, ii. 563 ; drags Numet Beg, the younger, of Ab- Chernoff across lake, ii. 567 ; dall, i. 392 ; takes charge of helps sound the Panggong-tso, horse,; and camels, i. 395 ; ii. 573 ; returns home, ii. 594· meets author, i. 438 ; ii. 175 ; Orleans, Prince Henri d', i. 85, sends author sheep, i. 463. 252 ; ii. 337. . Nur, " lake," ii. 139· Orongo antelopes, " Pan tho lops Nura, stream and valley, i. 30. Hodgsoni," i. 556 ; ii. 222, 240, 255, 271, 441 ; caught by 0Bo, religious cairn, i. 375, 596 .. .. Y olldash, i. 591. . ·.. 597.; ii. 408. Qrtang, " rest-house," i. 252, 344· Oghen, or Tarim, i. 179. See Ortangchi, " hosteler," i. 66. further TARIM. · Oruz Tura, i.e., 1\I. Bonin, i. 252. Ogri~yoll, "thieves' road," i. 314. Oscar, King of Sweden, i. v. ; Ojang, or Noh, ii. 557-558. ii. 189; his telegram to author, Oma, " fresh milk," ii. 333· · ii. 590; decorates Cossacks, · Oman-tso, lake, ii. 531, 632. ii. 62g-63o ; receives author, Ombo-sangpo, stream, ii. 535· ii. 630. On-bashi, " chief," i. 66. Osh, i. 14 ; ii. 628. Onji, the hunter, ii. 364. Osman Bai, ii. 197· . Opgan-daria, i. 2II. · Osman Bai-kuduk, i. 299· Qpium-smoking, ii. 554· OsUing-bagh," orchard beside the Ordek, i. 236, 246, 401 ; por canal," i. 110. trait of, i. 227 ; in his ·canoe, Otter skins, tribute of, i. 245, 407. · i. 227 ; in the Tc,tkla-makan, Ouigour, ii. 145, 146. i. 250, 271, 287 ; rides to An Ova, or Obo, a cairn of stones, i. dereh-terem, .i. 296.; discovers 375· pottery, i. 362 ; discovers Ownership, marks of, i. 199, 594· ruined houses. i. 377; leaves spade behind, i. 381 ; returns PAKKA-KUDUK, i. 300. with spade, i. 382 ; his dis Palankins, ii. 613, 618. covery, i. 385 ; inflates goat Palta, boatman, i. 88, 92, 94 ; skins, i. 390 ; finds Lop fisher portrait of, i. 231 ; crosses men, i. 392 ; explores Lower the Chokka-tagh, i. 130; at Tarim lakes, i. 414; navigates sport, i. 161 ; skill as boat ferry-boat, i. 416; as captain man, i. 163 ; in canoe, i. 227. of the· ferry-boat, i. 420 ; re Pamir, Fort, i. 19. turns home ill, i. 428 ; in reeds Pamirs, .i. vii., 19, 33· below Kum-chappgan, i. 437 ; Panels, carved, from Lop Deser~, scene of his discovery, ii. 124, i. 384; i~. 125, 127, 133. 135· 125; rejoins author, · ii. 196 ; Pangia,'' bungalow," ii. 597· chases wild-goose, ii. 239 ; ac~ Panggong-tso, ii. 568-581 ; camp companies author towards beside, ii. 575· Lassa, ii. 299 ; shaves author's Pann, " pennons," ii. 625. head, ii. 303 ; raises an alarm, Pao-tais, clay towers, i. 342, 343; ii. 305 ; his fear of robbers, ii. II3, II9-121, 136. ii. 310-313 ; meets author, ii. Parchu-daria, " part of the river," 407; wades acrossSachu-sangpo, i. 94· INDEX. Parpi Bai, i. roo, 218, 33S ; por side Ilek, i. 405; near Kashgar, traits of, i. 223, 231 ; meets i. 50 ; beside Kurruk-daria, i. author, i. 222; meeting with 346; in Lop Desert, i. 346, 365 ; Islam Bai, i. 223 ; put in ii. 124; across Tarim, our way charge of horses, i. 236 ; sent stopped by, i. zoo; beside Tarim, to M. Bonin, i. 252 ; makes ash, i. 104, 179, rgo, 2og, 2II, 308, i. 263 ; unwell, i. z66 ; pur 317, 418; timber of, i. 380; be sues runaway camel, i. 324; side Yarkand-daria, i. no, 144. a saddler by trade, i. 328 ; Potala, temple"palace of Dalai author's farewell to, i. 335 ~ Lama, ii. 380. grave of, i. 414· Pvttery, found in desert, i. 362, Partridges, in Lop Desert, i. 344, 365, 378, 384; ii. rrz, etc., 354 ; in Tibet, i. 483 ; ii. 137-138, 141. 6g, 213, 2!8, 240, 2JI, 495· . Poultry, i. !57- Pavan, " hunter," i. ro8, zrr. Prayer-mill, Tibetan, ii. 390, 391, Pavan Aksakal. See AKSAKAL OF 396. Y ANGHI-KOLL. Preserved foods, i. 5 ; ii. 3, r8z. · Pavan-bulak, ii. 93· Przhevalsky, i. 85; his Fourth Peh-lung mound, ii. 148. Journey, ii. 239· Peling, " European," ii: 343, 353- Pu-chang-hai, or Puthshanghai, 355- " Calamiferous Lake," ii. 139, Perutseh-tso, lake, iL 532. !46. . Petermann's Mitteilungen, i. vii., Pustun, " sheep-skins," i. gr. 293 ; ii. 139· Puthshanghai, or Pu-chang-hai, Petrovsk, i. 7 ; ii, 62g. ii. 139. !46. Petrovsky, Con.-Gen., i. 39, 40,45; ii. 628 ; portrait, i. 38 ; takes QUAGMIRES, in Tibet, i. sr8-srg, photograph, i. 46-47; puts szr, 574; ii. 236-237, 286, 404, Kurban in jail, i. 332 ; recalls 413 ; camel sinking in, ii. 405. Cossacks, i. 431 ; sends back RAGA-SANGPO, ii. 546. Cossacks, ii. r66 : arrests Islam Rain, at Kashgar, i. 49; in Cen Bai, ii. 200. . ·· tral Tibet, ii. 266, 26g, 318- Pettelik-daria, i. 496. 319, 323, 325-326. Pfeil, Count, ii. 6ro. Ramlung, ii. 515. Pheasants, at Yanghi-koll, i. 328. Rapids, in Tarim, i. ror, 105, 400, Photographic equipment, i. 4-5; 426. . ii. 394: Raskolnikis, Russian Nonconfor- Photographs, no. of taken, i. 5· mists, i. 309-310,. 429. Piazlik, i. 599 ; ii. 218, 221. Rats, i. 285, 557; ii. 349· Pichan, near Turfan, ii. 136. Ravens, i. 582 ; ii. 4· Pievtsoff, M., i. 85, 225. Ravur-sangpo, ii. 544· Pilgrims, Hindu, ii. 6os ; Mongol, Rawalpindi, ii. 6o5, 6.ro, 6rr. ii. 30, 34. 205, 354. 455· Reeds, of Kara-koshun lakes, i. Pilmen, "meat boiled in dough." 398-399, 437; in t_he Sorun i. 331- koll, i. rz8 ; in Suyi-sarik-koll, Pipe, of Turduk, i. 303. i. 405 ; in Takla-makan Desert, Po, river, ii. 146. i. 274; beside Tarim; i. 104, 156, Poplars, i. 20; age of, i. 308 ; at rgz ; of Lower Tarim- lakes, Bash-tograk, i. 338; burning, i. 418, 42!. i. 292 ; carved wood of, i. 378, Red River. See KIZIL-SU. 384,387; 6. I25,I2J, 133,135; Rehim Bai, i. r83. beside Cherchen-daria, i. 308; Reuterskiold, M., i. 5- in East Turkestan, i. 55, 308 ; Ribbach, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 593, beside Ettek-tarim, i. 316 ; be- 594, 6r7. INDEX. Richthofen, Baron von, i. 375; Saksaul, Anabasis Ammodendron, ii. I74· ii. 78, 8I, ~2. Rijnhard, ii. 375· Saldam, " a hunter's look-out," Robbers, attack by, ii. 305-307; i. 196. . supposed, ii. 546. Salessky, Col., i. II. Robertson, Col., ii. 607. Salt, i. 365 ; ii. 398 ; in desert, i. Roborovsky, Captain, i. 274, 298, 129, 267 ; ii. 159 ; in Tibetan 305, 306, 307. lakes, i. 53 I, 536. Rock-drawings, in Togri-sai, i. Salt lakes, in Tibet, i. 53I-549· 594· Salt-pans~ ii. 528. . Rockhill, Mr~, ii. 337. Salwin, Upper, ii. 374· Roe-deer, at Yanghi-koll, i. 328. Samarcand, i. II. Rope-dancer, i. 43· Sampa-nezrak, ii. 598. Rosi Mollah, ii. 231, 264, 447 ; Sampo Singhi, ii. 321, 328, 399 ; ill, ii. 250 ; reads prayers for takes snuff, ii. 332 ; brings dead, ii. 448-451 ; returns · presents, ii. 333 ; kills a sheep, home, ii. 594· ii. 334 ; his wife, ii. 334-335· Royal Geographical Society, i. vi. Sand-buried Ruins of Khotan, Dr. Royal Scottish Geographical So Stein's, i. vii., 304n. ciety, i. vi. Sand-dunes, beside Ettek-tarim, Rubies, i. 141. i. 316 ; of Desert of Gobi. ii. Rudok, town, ii. 539· 8I, 86; in Takla-makan, i. 248, · Rudokis, chief of, ii. 536, 539- 265; descending, i. 274; be 540, 543· side the Tarim, i. 196, 418, 419 ; Ruins, at Andereh-terem, i. 296, at Karaul, i. 229 ; at Tokkuz 303 ; in Lop Desert, i. 379- kum, i. 203; near Tokkuz 380, 385. kum, ·i. 202, 203; at Yanghi Rushes, i. 280 ; ii. I49· koll, i. 231 ; on Tibetan high Russia, ii. 369 ; steppes of, lands, i. 493, 517.· i. 6 . Sando, ii. 66. .Russia, Czar· of, i. v., 4, 432 ; n. ·Sand-storm, on Beglik-koll, i. 422- 189, 630. 424; in Lop Desert, i. 203, 346, 347, 350, 398; ii. 158. SA-CHE (Yarkand ?), ii. 146. Sanjas Shaggja Toba, image of, Sa-chow, or Dung-khan, i. 245, ii, 622. 344. 457 ; ii. 69.' Sanjeh Lama, ii. 454-455· Sachu-sangpo, river, ii. 336-339, Sanju, ii. 628. 396, 398, 424-428. Sapp, " rod or javelin," i. 123. Sadak-koll, i. 402. Sar, money, i. 40n. Sadik, Lop boatman, i. 416. Sari-kari, ii. 394· Sagen, M., i. 30. Sarik-buran, "yellow storm," i. Sagghet-sang, Tibetan province, 96 .. ii. 531. · Sarik-buya, i. 185. Saghisghan, " rat," i. 285. Sarik Kullak, " Golden Ears,". a Sai, "hard slope at foot of moun- mule, ii. 195, 332. tains," i. 338, 341, 461, 469. Sarik-tash, i. 25. St. Petersburg, i. 5; ii. 629. Sartang, ii. 65 ; Mongols of, ii. Saint-Yves, M., i. 46. 62-89 ; temperature in, ii. 66. Sai-tagh, i. 132, 134; burial place Sarts, i. 12. . at, i. I39· . ·Saspul, ii. 597. • Saitseff, Col., f 14 ; ii. 3, 628 ; Satchkak, "hook," i. 123. writes about Shagdur, ii. 629. Sateh-koll, i. 397, 459· Sakharoff, General, ii. 630. Sattma, " shepherd's ·hut," i. I8o, Sakhir, ii. 347· 392, 400, 439· INDEX. Sattovaldi-koll, i. 429. takes part in Tibet journey, ii. Schweinfurth, i. 241. 206 ; taken ill, ii. 221 ; shoots Scientific Results, author's pro- partridges, ii. 240; shoots ante jected book, i. vii. lopes, ii. 244 ; shoots wild Secretary, Chinese, i. 244, 301. yak, ii. 266; attacked by a Seed-corn, ii. 136, 144. wolf, ii. 269 ; goes to Tibetan Seit-koll, i. 226, 229; abandoned · encampment, ii. 276; recon huts at, i. 230 ; lake, i. 226. noitres, ii. 284 ; del.ight at start Selling-tso, ii. 428, 432, 472, 496 ; ing for Lassa, ii. 296; cuts relations to Nakktsong-tso, ii. author's hair, ii. 303 ; impa 472,492. tient to pursue thieves, ii. 306 ; Semillaku-koll, i. 434· in pilgrim dress, ii. 3II ; leader Semiz-khatun, i. 34· of the pilgrims, ii. 314; en Senjkak, "fis4 spear," i. 245. campment of, ii. 315 ; orders . Senkor, Tibetan tribe, ii .. 531. author to look after horses, ii . Serafshan. See ZARAFSHA~. 332 ; shows weapons to Tibe Serai, "shelter-house," i. 39, 49· tans, iJ.. 356 ; answers Kamba Serdseh, ii. 574, 577· Bombo, ii. 379 ; jests and talks Setcha, ii. 507. with Tibetans, ii. 393 ; brings Seven Seas, Rudyard Kipling's, in Tibetan shepherds, ii. 419 ; ii. 23. fishing in Boggtsang-sangpo, ii. Shagdur, Nicolai, Cossack, i. 323 : 499-500; temporary head of portraits of, i. 325 ; ii. 7, caravan, ii. 507; picks up 31, 3II ; characteristics, i. Tibetan, ii. 546; catches fi.sh, 473 ; as body servant, i. 420; ii. 550, 553, 557 ; examines author's liking for, i. 427 ; path, ii. 573-574 ; amazement on ferry-boat, i. 430 ; gets of, in India, ii. 6o6 ; takes fever, lost, i. 432; arrives at Yoll ii. 609-610, 6II ; suffers a re arelish, i. 459 ; goes back for lapse, ii. 615-616 ; author says dogs, i. 462 ; assists author, good-bye to, ii. 616-617 ; arrives i. 468 ; as meteorologist, i. 481 ; at Osh, ii. 629; receives medal visits Mongols at Jurkhak, i. and order, ii. 630. See also 481; meets caravan, i. 607; CossAcKs. sketch map of, ii. 4 ; with Shaggueh-chu, ii.. 528. hunting trophies, ii. 7, 31 ; Shah-ganjum, Mount, ii. 5II, 512. chief of camp at Temirlik, ii. 7 ; Shahr-i-Kettek-kum, "Town in on Mongol pilgrims, ii. 34 ; in the Dead Forest Sand," i. 243. terested in Lassa, ii. 35 ; shoots Shah-yar, i. 179, 184; beg of, i. wild camel, ii. 53, 101-102 ; 176, 177· told about trip to Lassa, ii. 54; Shah-yar-daria, i. 174. shoots wild sheep, ii. 62 ; digs Shakkanjorm, or Shah-ganjum, ~ well, ii. 91 ; finds scene of ii. 5II, 512. . Ordek's discovery, ii. 123; finds Sha-kurun, cataract, i. 191. script, ii. 126; some of his Shalung, ii. 495· · finds, ii. 133 ; helps in survey Shang-ya, " beg," i. 202. ing, ii. 154; missing in Lop Shannig-nagbo, " Black Cap," 11. Desert, ii. 156 ; shoots wild . 429. duck, ii. 161, 162, 434 ; dis~ Shan-shan. See Lou-LAN. covers wandering lake, ii. i62 ; Shashkak, i. 96. reports horsemen coming, ii. Shawe, Dr. E., ii. 593, 594, 615- 165 ; his horse dies, ii. 172 ; 616, 617. . sent to Kara-shahr, ii. 181 ; Sheep, i. 113,143,160,179, 312; returns to Charkhlik, ii. 194; ii. 327, 495 ; caravan, ii. 558, engages Shereb Lama, ii. 195 ; 560, 568; frightened by wolves, INDEX. i. 484-486; killed by Sampo Tibetans' complaint, ii. 554 ; Singhi, · ii. 334- ; a pet, i. 563 ; . attends author, ii. 581 ; re run away, ii. 261 ; Tibetan, ii. mains at Leh, ii. 594; ·settles 219. See also V ANKA, the ram. at Astrakhan, ii. 629·. Sheep, wild. ·see ARKHARIS. Sheriet, " customary law of Mo- Sheep-folds, Kirghiz, i. 26 ; Tibe hammedans," ii. 201 · tan, ii. 507. Sheyok, or Sheok, flute-player of, Sheitlar, i. 320, 406; reed huts ii. 626; valley of, ii. 625, 628. at, i. 321. Shigatse, ii. 346. Shen-shen. See Lou-LAN. Shirdak Pavan, i: 406, 420. Shepherds of Cherchen-daria, i. Shirgeh-chappgan, i. 397, 433 ; 294 ; huts at Shudang, i: .299, new river at, i. 400 ; ii. 175 ;· 301 ; on south of Takla-makan Tarim at, i. 401, 432. Desert, i. 300-302; of Tarim, Shisslick, Tatar, '• mutton grilled i. 143, 147, 168, 184-185 ; boys, on a skewer," i. 255. ii. 427 ; of Tibet, ii. 218, 221, Sho, " sour milk," ii. 333· 222, 329, 419, 421 ; of Unkur Sholung, spring of, ii. 516. luk, ii. 219 ; at Yugan-balik, Sho-ovo, " Little Obo," ii. 66, 69 . . i. 126 .. Shor, salt deposi~s, i. 129, 267 ; Shereb Lama, ii. 194-196, 513 ; · ii. 159· . portraits of, ii. 195, 3II, 513 ; Shor-koll, lake, i. 120. takes part in ribe~ journey, ii. Shudang, i. 301 ; shepherds' huts 206, etc.; teaches author Mon at, i. 299 ; well of, i. 300. golian, ii. 213 ; told of trip to Shuei-king-tsuhu, ii. 140. Lassa, ii.214; watches for cara Shura, i. 29. van, ii. 222 ; wants to return, Shved Peling, "Swedish Euro- ii. 227 ; willingness to help, ii. pean," ii. 353-355. 232 ; doctors horse, ii. 248- Siah, " secretary," i. 244, 301. 249 ; goes to Tibetan encamp Si-an-fu, ii. 145. ment, ii. 276-279; devotion to Sil, " freshet," i. 338. author, ii.. 299 ; unwell, ii. 300 ; Silence, of Tarim forests~ i. 137, smears author's face, ii. 304; 196. in pilgrim dress, ii. 3II ; en Sim, "floating islands," i. 406·. campment of, ii. 315 ; visits Singher, i. 359· Tibetan s}lepherds, ii. 328 ; Siriap, ii. 570. fords the Sachu-sangpo, ii. 337; Sirkin, Cossack, i. 42, 64-65 ; ·his medicaments, ii. 340; paints portraits of, i. 42, 47, 325 ; ii. author's head, ii. 346 ; inter 183, 259 ; acts as smith, i. 72 ; ested in Christianity, ii. 347 ; as clerk of caravan, i. 78 ; passes for a Buriat, ii. 347 ; on ferry-boat, i. 100, 430 ; converses with natives, ii. 349 ; makes skates, i. 237; acts as · reports the Tibetan's message, meteorologist, i. 256, 331, 409-; ii. 353 ; was he treacherous ? meets author, i. 322; retained . ii: 354:_356 ; attitude towards by author, i. 324; buys horses Kamba ·Bombo, ii. 380; talks and mules, i. 332; as scientific with Tibetan shepherds, ii. 420 ; worker, i. 413 ; explores lakes detains Tibetan shepherds, of Lower Tarim, i. 414; his ii. 421 ; the healer, ii. 455 ; dis canoe sinks, i. 415 ; shoots a credited at Lassa, ii. 459 ; '\Yild boar, i. 418 ; sends assist visits Erenak-chimmo, ii. 500- ance to author, i. 424; ordered 503 ; makes a side excursion, home, i. 431 ; helps with photo ii. 507 ; abused by Tibetans, graphic work, i. 435 ; ii. 178 ; ii. 544 ; quarrels with men of. sets out for Kashgar, i. 458; yak caravan, ii. 545; reports sent back to author, ii. 166 ; INDEX. at Charkhlik, ii. 183 ; with Spectacles, i. 4· baby camels, ii. 185 ; as body Spiders, i. 465. servant, ii. 194 ; questioned Splingaert. P., i. 465. by )longol pilgrims, ii. 205 ; Sraman, "monk," ii. 150. takes part in Tibet journey, Srinagar, journey to, ii. 597-6oo, ii. 206; shoots antelopes, ii. 6o3. 221, 240, 244; sets up a Stable, at Chegghelik-uy, i. 435 ; sign-post, ii. 222 ; brings up at Tura-sallgan-uy, i. 242. caravan, ii. 223; reads Stag, tame, ii. 177, 178, 194-, 224; Przhe\·alsky's FourtiJ Journey, killed, ii. 229-230. ii. 239 ; guides cara\·an, ii. Stein, Dr. A. M., i. vii., 304; ii~ 239, 243 ; his horse dies, ii. 6II ; his Preliminary Report, ii. 244 ; reconnoitres, ii. 251 ; 140, :r44 ; his Sand-buried holding camel, ii. 259 ; shoots Ruins of Klwtart i. vii. ; ii. partridges, ii. 261 ; shoots wild :r44n. yak, ii. 266 ; given charge of Storms, on Chargut-tso, ii. 4S2- chronometers, ii. 290 ; told 488 ; in North Tibet, i. 555, nature of trip to Lassa, ii. 291 ; 558-559. See also SA:SD takes author for ~Iongol, ii. STOR.\15 and Sxow-sTOR.\IS. 296; meets author, ii. 406; Sufi-lmrgan, i. 23. brings in Tibetan shepherds, ii. Sughett-bulak, glen of, i. 338- 419; false charge against, ii. 339 ; temperature, i. 339· 554 ; examines the road, ii. Sughett-davan, ii. 628. 564 ; returns home, ii. 594 ; Suk-suk. See SAKSAUL. receives medal and order, ii. Su-leh or Kashgar, ii. :146. 630. See also CossACKS. Sumeh, " library," ii. 622. Siva, i. zog. Sum-tun-buluk, "Three Hundred Si-yu, "western region," ii, 145. Springs," ii. 38. Ski, " snow~shoes," ii. 262. Sunrise, i. 459· Sledging, on the Tso-ngombo, ii. Sunset, on Kara-koshun lakes, i. 565. 39:1; in Takla-makan Desert, Small-pox, i. 226. :r. 277; beside Tarim, i. 190. Snail-shells, sp. Limnrea, i. 361, 215 ; in Northern Tibet, i.- 362, 376-377. 381, 384, 392; 555 ; in \Vestern Tibet, ii. 499· ii. 123- Su-ossghen, i. 306-307. Snow, in Takla-makan Desert, Suyi-sarik-koll, "Yellow \Vater i. 286-292; in Northern Tibet, Lake," i. 405. i. 483, 589; ii. 238, 246. See Sven Dufva, an Asiatic, i. 4741 . also Sxow-STORM. Svinhufvud, Col., i. 9· Snow-shoes, ii. 6oo. Swallows, mountain, ii. 213. Snow-storm, on Arka-tagh, i. 589 ; Swans, wild, i. :r28, 318, 391, 398 ; · on way to Andereh-terem; i. caught alive, i. 396. 298-303 ; in Takla-makan Syr-daria, i. 12. Desert, i. 286-288. Syssyk-koll, i. 421. Snuff, i. 138; ii. 332. Solang Undy, ii. 388-389, 397-399· TABBTSA~G, "kitchen," ii. 626. Sommeh-sangpo, ii. 517, 519. Tabesi, " administrative dis Soreh, " shepherds' huts," i. 109. trict, i. 184. Sorun, i. :r26 ; · lake of, i. :r26. Table-lands, of N. Tibet. 1. Sotnia, "company of Cossacks," i. 513,527,529,56]; ii.213. 18. Tablets, of wood, written on, ii. Soundings. See DEPTHS.· :r26-:r2g, :r32, I43· Southern Mountains, i.e.,-: Altyn Tael, or liang, Chinese coin, ii. or Ustun-tagh (?), ii 146. 5:r5, 535· VOL. II. INDEX. Tagar, " bag of reed," i. 375 ; ii. ments of, at Abdall, i. 397, 421 ; 43,· I08. . at Aksattma, i. I37 ; at Al Taggar, ii. 585, 626. kattik-chekkeh, i. 205 ; at Ar Tagh~kum, " Mountain Sand," 1. ghan, i. 44I ; at Att-pangats, i. 316. 99 ; at Basharghan, i. 319 ; at Taigun, dog, i. 237, 439· Besh-koll, i. 95 ; at Chimen, i. Tailak, " young camel," i. 354· I75 ; at Dillpar, i. 337; at Duga Tais, " a shallow," i. 94· jayi-masar, i. I4I; at Initshkeh, Tajinur Mongols, ii. 535, 543· i. 172 ; at Kalmak-kum, i. I47; Taj Mahal, ii. 6os. at Kara-koshun, i. 396; at Takla-makan, Desert of; i. 57, · Kiyik-teleh-choll, i. IIS ; near 131, 242-243. 246-256, 261- Kona Abdall, ii. 175 ; at Koral 294 ; bayir~ of, i. 249-250, dung, i. I8g ; above Kum-chek 263-285, 3I7-318 ; legends of, i. keh, i. 404; at Kurrukassteh, i. 243; New Year's Night in, ii. 120; at I.ailik, i. 77 ; near Masar ·s8; rest in, i. 59; sand-dunes of, tagh, i. II6 ; at Mattan, i. ISO ; i. 265 ; temperatures in, i. 247, at Moreh, i. I35 ; at Shashkak, 265, 266, 267, 274. 278, 285, i. g6; at Shirgeh-chappgan, i. 288, 29I ; vegetation in, i. 277. 40I, 433 ; at Siva, i. 209 ; at Talkan, " roasted flour," i. 256 ; Sorun, i. I27; at Teppeh-tesdi, ii. 38, I82. i. 184; at Togluk, i. 100 ; at Talldik, pass, i. 25: Tura-Sallgan-uy, i. 244,416; at Tamaria, shrub, ii. I49· confluence of Ughen-daria, i. Tamarisks, i. ro6, Ig5, 292, 398, 222 ; at Yallguz-yiggdeh, i. 464, 465 ; · ii. 78, 209 ; thicket, II3 ; at Yanghi-daria, i. 102 ; i. 3.)7· near Yekkenlik-koll, i. 426; Tamashah, " exhibition," i. 150, on 27th Sept., 18gg, i. rog ; I· 328. on I7th Oct., 18gg, i, 144 ; Tana-bagladi-koll, i. 255, 263. on 26th Oct., r8gg, i, 151 ; on Tang-la, pass, ii. 374 ; range, i, 30th Oct., I8gg, i. 157 ; on 2gth s68 Nov., r8gg, i. Ig8; a new Tang-leh, ii. 433· channel, i. 164; navigation by Tanguts, ii. 327, 342-346; sell night, i. 184, 2I0-2II, 426, 430 ; their children, ii. 535· proper, i. -152; reeds, in its Tanksi, ii. 582 ; temple of, ii. 579· lakes, i. I26, 418, 42I ; beside Tarim, banks of, i. 103, 108, 143, the river, i. I04, IS6, I92; rise ISO, I8o ; boating on, i. 63- and fall of, i. 218; 221, 416 ; 65, 97. I58- ISg, 4I3.,... 414; ii. I70; sand-dunes beside, i. cataracts in, i. 10I, 105, 400, rg6, 202-203, 229, 231, 418, 426 ; characteristics of, i. 157, 419 ; temperature of, i. sg, g6, 2II ; driftwood in, i. 103, 104, 14I, 142, I48, 152, I8o, Ig8, 167, 172; encampment beside, 200, 214, 429 ; Upper, life on, i. 8g ; .erosive energy of, i. 16I ; i. 87-102. fishing apparatus in, i. r6g; Tarim, or Tarim, i. I95· floating down, i. 61-233; 426- Tashi-lumpo, ii. 342, 420. 44I ; ford of, i. Igi; forests of, i. Tashkend, i. II. 103-II7, 146, I51, I79. 317, Tattlik-bulak, i. 463, 464. 434; hydrographic relations of, Ta-wan, ii. I46. i. 406; ii. I70; ice on, i. Igg- Tayek-koll, i. 404. 233, 318 ; idyllic journey down, Tche-mo-to-na, or Nimo, ii. I45, i. Io6 ; lakes of, i. 195, 225, rso. 41o-425 (see also KARA-KOSH Tea caravan, ii. 342. UN) ; Lower, i. 2I3, 410, 432 ; Teiz-koll, beg of, i. 218. map of, i. II4, 434; measure- Telepathy, instance of, i. 6o6. INDEX. Tellpel, i. r68 ; fishing apparatus 621-628; in Lop Desert, n. at, i r6g. 129; at Noh, ii. 555-558; at Temir Beg, of Chegghelik-uy, i. Tanksi, ii. 579· 434· Tengeh, money, i. 40n.; of Temirlik, i. 470; headquarters Yakub Beg's time, i. 236. camp at, i. 003 ; ii. 4, 5 ; return Tengrl-nor, ii. 303. journey to, ii. 24, 33 ; tempera Teppeh-tesdi, i. 184. ture at, ii. 35· Terek, " poplar," i. 20. Temir-yoll, " iron road," i. 12. Terek, glen, i. :?3· Temperatures at foot of Astyn Terek-<;lavan, pass, i. 23. tagh, i. 468 ; at Charkhlik, ii. Terem, or Tarim. i. I79· r85 ; at Chimen, i. 176 ; at Teresken, scrub, ii. 57, 78. Dunglik, i. 400; in Kwen-lun Te:rez, i. I74· Mts., ii. 210, 213 ; at Lake Terns, i. 391, 419. Ghaz, ii. 41 ; in Sartang, ii. 66 ; Tesildar, of Leh, ii. 586. at Temirlik, ii. 35 ; of Uzun Thai -Shi epoch, ii. I44· shor, ii. 33 ; in Desert of Gobi, Theodolite, i. 3· ii. 62, 6g, 86, go; in Lop Desert, Thermometer, self-registering, i. 4· i. 350, 352 ; ii. r6o ; at Alti Tshu, coin, ii. 140. mish-bulak, i. 375 ; ii. 107 ; Thunderstorm, on Tibetan high- in glen of Sughett-bulak, i. 339 ; lands, i. 520 ; ii. 344· at Ying-pen, i. 345 ; in Takla Tibet, administrative relations of, makan, i. 247, 265, 266, 267, ii. 398 ; loneliness of, ii. 23 ; 274,278,285,288,291; on way author's start for, ii. .rgo ; to Andereh-terem, i. 298, 304- travelling in, ii. 553-554; un- 305 ; in Cherchen-daria, i. 313; known parts of, j. 513. · · of water in desert-well, i. 28o ; Tibet, Central, ii. 263-289, 293- of Tarim,. i. 59, g6, I4I, 142, 494; altitude3 in, ii. 266, 267, 148, 152, roo, r8o, rg8, 20o- 282, 284, 419, 475; antelopes, 214, 429 ; beside Lower Tarim, ii. 271, 444, 495 ; bear, ii; i. 426, 429, 435 ; at Bash, 275, 404; camps, ii. 267, 289, kurgan, i. 466; at Beglik-k611, 315, 403, 439; ·fording rivers, i. 421 ; beside Ettek-tarim, i. ii. 271, 336-339 ; glaciers, ii. 318; beside Kara-koshun, i. 282 ; grazing, ii. 271, 273, 407 ; 391, 392, 400 ; at Sai-tagh, i. hares, ii. 271, 299, 495; ice, 135; at Shashkak, i. g6;. at ii. 284, 285, 287 ; kulans, ii. . Siva, i. 210 ; at Sorun-k611, 271, 299, 441, 495 ; lakes, ii. i. 128 ; at Tattlik-bulak, i. 464 ; 432-494, 492 ; marmots, ii. at Tura-sallgan-uy, i. 331 ; in 299 ; night in, ii. 468 ; par Central Tibet, ii. 271, 319, 346, tridges, i. 483 ; ii. 6g, 213, 218, 352, 395, 396, 403, 414, 415, 240 ; ii. 495 ; quagmires, ii. 416 ; ii. 463, 466, (468, 484, 286, 404-405, 413 ; rain, ii. 486; in Northern Tibet, i. 266, 269, 318-3I9, 323, 325- 484, 489, rsor, 525, 535;. 326 ; rats,. ii. 349 ; scenery, 552, s6s, s66, s68, 570, 578, ii. 444, 464-466, 492 ; tempera 583, 587 592, 599 ; ii. 8, rs, tures; ii. 271, 319, 346, 352, r6, rg, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 238, 395, 396, 403, 414, 415, 416, 251; in Western Tibet, ii. 499, 463, 466, 468, 484, 486; trade 500, 504, 507, 517, 518, 531, wind, ii. 484. 535, 545, 547, 548, 549, s6o, Tibet, Northern, i. 455-608; ii. 562, 564, 567, s6g, 573; in r-so, 205-262 ; altitudes, i. West Turkestan, i. 8; on Zoji sog,522,552,564-570,578,s8r, la, ii. 6oo. 589 ; ii. 218, 238, 247' 254. 258, Temple, Buddhist, at Himis, ii. 26r, 262 ; antelopes, i. 556; 66o INDEX. ii. 43, 22~, 240, 2SS; atmosphere Tibetans, ii. 27s-276, 32B, 331, on, i. S3S ; ~bears, i. 477, S74. 349, 3SS. S31 ; abuse Shereb S7B-S79 ; ii. 21B," 240-243 ; Lam~, ii. S44 ; accuse Li Loyeh border-ranges of, · i. 4B2-494, and Ordek, ii. SS4 ; astonished SB3-6o6 ; ii. 24-SO, 20S-262 ; to see boat, ii. 424; attitude of camps in, i. S1S, sBs, S93 ; ii. towards author, ii. 374-37S ; 9, 13, 40 ; clouds, i. S47 ; caravan-man, ii. 343 ; cha fording rivers, i. S40, S43 ; ii. racter of, ii. 479 ; curious about 249 ; geese, wild, i. S4B, SS7 ; author's eyes, ii. 3S6; disposal of glaciers, i. S23 ; gold mines, i. dead, ii. 492; dress, ii. 32B, 33S, 470, S93 ; grass, ii. 244; hares, 3S7, 379, 390, 393 ; emissaries i. SS7 ; ii. 247 ; gulls, i. SS7 ; of, ii. 4s2-462 ; their guard, ii. hail, i. S4B, SS3 ; kulans, i. 490- 477; their tents, ii. 493 ; 492, ss7. sB1, S99· oos ; ii. their escort, ii. 3BB ; horsemen, 213, 222 ; lakes, i. 494-49S. ii. 36S, 3B1, 39S. 47S ; jealous S31-S39, S41, ·S49, SS1-S62; exclusiveness, ii. 470-471 ; fear ii. 12-13, 163-17S, 221-222 ; of robbers, ii. S46 ; catch a author's landmark, ii. 2S2 ; fish, ii. 43B ; disrelish for fish, marmots, i. 4B1, 4B9, SS7. S73; ii. 441 ; hair, ii. 363, 390 ; their Midsummer Day in, ii. 24B ; horses, ii. 390 ; language, ii. night in, i. S14; partridges, ii. 4S3; legend, ii. 3S ; mutual 271 ; quagmires, i. s1B-s19, loyalty, ii. SII; manners and S21, S74; ii. 23&--237; rats, customs, ii. 32B, 393, 46o ; i. 2Bs, SS7 ; snow, ii. 23B, marksmanship, ii. 441 ; money, 246 ; storm, i. S20, SSS ; sun ii. 433 ; mystified by ticking set, L SSS ; tablelands, i. of watch, ii. 394; under photo ' S13, S27' S29, S67 ; ' ii.. 213 ; graphic camera, ii. 479 ; shep temperatures, i. 4B4, 4B9, herd boys, ii. 427 ; shepherds of, so1, s2s, s3s, ss2, s6s, s66, ii. 21B, 221,222,329,419,421; s6B, s7o, s7B, sB3, sB7, s92, sheep-folds, ii. S07 ; soldiers, S99; ii.B,1S,16,19,23,24,27, ii. 36S; 3B1, 39S. 47S ; charges 2B, 29, 23B, 2S1 ; thunderstorm. of, ii. 359--"361, 437; dog author, i. S20 ; valleys, ii. 2SO ; ii. 432-462, 47S-479· 493-494. weather, ii. 231 ; wind, i. s67, soB ; gambling, ii. 4B1 ; mus SB7 ; ii. 2S1, 2S7 ; wolves, i. tering, ii. 3SB, 423 ; stop S29· author, ii. 3S2 ; surround Tibet, Western, ii. 49S-S94; alti- . author's tent, ii. 362 ; try to tudes, ii. S03, S17, S31, S44. stop author again, ii. 425, soB ; S47. SS2, SB2; camps in, ii. swords, ii. 46o; tents, ii. 371, so9, s17, s21, s2s, s29, S33, 429; trade of, with Kashmir, S37. S46, S47, S7S, S77 ; cli ii. s6o ; U:se of bellows by' ii. matic laws, ii. S19 ; duck, wild, 363, 394, 396 ; women, ii. 335, ii. S44, S61 ; geese, wild, ii. 423, 42S ; yak caravan, -ii. 34B ; 49S. s# ; hares, ii. 49S ; ice, leaders of, ii. S4S-S46. ii. S63·S6B ; lakes, ii. S16-SB1 ; Ticks, i. 46S ; on camels, ii. 107. marshy ground, ii. S37 ; scenery, Tigers, i. 126, 143, 1B6-1B7, 327; ii. S03, sos, S09, S2S, S29-S31, trap for, i. 1B7. S33. S40, S46, S47; sunset, ii .. Tikkenlik, i. 320, 40B ; bridge at, 499; temperatures, ii. 499, i. 407. SOO, S04, 507, S17-S1B, S31, Tikkseh, monastery, ii. 5Bs, sB6, . 53S. S4S, S47. 54B, S49. 500, 5B9. 562, S64, 567, S69, S73; trade Tobbveh, pass, i. 340. wind, ii. SII, 519, S32 ; wolves, Togdasin, the hunter, i. 599; ii:: S12, S44· goes to N. Tibet, ii. 4 ; acts as INDEX. 66r guide, ii. 8; goes hunting, ii. · sion, ii. 16S; found at Kara II ; illness of, ii. 12, 20, 33-34 ; koshun, ii. 169, 173. taken back by Kutchuk, ii. Tokta, or Togda Khoja, i. 65. 27; Mohammedan cure for, Toktamet Beg of Cherchen, rob- ii. 36. ber story of, i. 311. Togdasin Beg of Charkhlik, i. Tomonki-Yardang-bulak, i. 3S3· 313, 319 ; ii. 206 ; informa Tonga, " travelling cart," ii. 604. tion about Ettek-tarim, i. 314 ; Tong-burun, pass, i. 26, 29. goes hunting, ii. 3 ; returns Tongo, volcano, ii. soo. home, ii. 206. Tor, " bird-trap," i. i47. Togda Mohammed Beg, or Mollah Tora, road-pyramid, or clay Toktamet Beg, i. 294· tower, i. 338, 340-343, 378, Togluk, i. 100. 381 ; ii. III-II3, II6, II9-I2I, Tograk, " poplar," i. 6o. 130, 136. Tograk-bulak, i. 341 ; ii. 209. Torpag-bel, i. 33· Tograk-kuduk, ii. 86. Tosak, or kappgan, " spring- Tograklik-koll, i. 418. trap," i. 186-187. Tograk-mahallah, i. 191. Tower, clay. See ToRA. Togri-sai, i. S93-S9S ; ii. 221 ; Tower of Silence, Bombay, ii. 610. gold mines in, i. S93; obo in, Trade-wind, of Tibet,)i. 484;·su, i. S97· . SI9, S32. Tokktekk, i. 300. Trans-Alai, i. 26, 29. Tokkuz-davan, i. 291. Transcaspian Railway, i:'S. Tokkuz-kum, i. 203, 204 ; sand- Transparency of Tarim, . etc., dunes near, i. 202. measurement or, i. 114, · 120, Tokkuz-tarim, " The Nine 213, 222. Rivers," i. 399· Traps, for birds, i. 147 ; for fish, Tokta Ahun, the hunter. See LI i. IS6 ; for tigers, i. 187• LOYEH •. Tribute, of otter skins, i. 24S· Tokta Ahun, Lop boatman, i. 416. Tsagan Khan, "White~Emperor," Tokta Ahun, son of Kunchek ii. 3S· kan Beg, i. 392, 398, 438 ; Tsagan-ula, " White Mountain," portraits of, i. 449; ii. 17 ; ii. 77· characteristics of, i. 474 ; ar Tsaidarn, ii. 62 ; Mongols of, ii. 30. rives at Yoll-arelish, i. 4S9 ; Tsainba, ii. 333· acts as guide, i. 468 ; returns Tsamur, ii. 398. home, i. 481 ; rejoins author, Tsangar-shar, ii. S49· sso, SS4· i. 488 ; on young kulans, i. 490 ; Tsangeh Khutuktu, ii. 4S4-4SS·· on wolves, i. 493; sent back Tsebu, spring, ii. S44· , to headquarters, i. 496 ; brings Tseih-shih, ii. 146. relief, i. 605 ; goes hunting, ii. Tsering Dashi, ii. so8,. SI2, SI3. 3; goes toN. Tibet, ii. 4; boat Tshi-ta epoch, ii. 140. . man ·on Ayag-kum-koll, ii. 12; Tsien-Han-shu, History. of the with skiff, ii. 17 ; on mountain First Hans, ii. I4S, 146, 149· sickness, ii. 20 ; cuts up yak, Tsin dynasty, ii. I3S· ii. 29; goes to Anambaruin-gol, Tsin Wu Ti, ii. 144. · ii. 37 ; draws author across Tsiu-Thsiian, or Sa-Chow, ii. 143. Lake Ghaz, ii. 40 ; reconnoitres Tso, Tibetan coin, ii. 433, SIS. road, ii. 40 ; takes wrong road, Tso Daloi, police, i. 46. ii. 43 ; levels road, ii. 43 ; dis Tso-kiarig, ii. I49· covers pass over Aka to-tagh, Tsokkang, "library," ii. 622. ii. 48 ; sent to Abdall, ii. 74 ; Tsolla-ring-tso, lake, ii. S36, S39· meets author~at Kara-koshun, Tso-nekk, "Black Lake," ii. 351, ii. 166; executes his commis- 352,388. 662 INDEX. Tso-ngombo, or Blue Lake, ii. SS7- author towards Lassa, ii. 299 ; s68. · , pursues robbers, ii. 313 ; meets Tsung-ling,or Onion Range, ii.q6. author, ii. 406 ; surprises Tibe Tugachi-bashi, "leader of the tan hunters, ii. 409 ; brings in camels," ii. 227. Kalpet, ii. 414 ; fishing, ii. soo ; Tuga Kalldi, "A camel has his horse dies, ii. sso ; examines stopped," ii. 247· the road, ii. S63 ; bewildered Tuga-olldi, "the Camel Died," i. by wind, ii. S74; left at Leh, 433· ii. S94; parts from author, · Tugden Darjeh, ii, 4S4· ii. 628 ; given gold medal, ii. Tugh, mark of grave, i. S83. 630. Tulum, "goat-skin," i. 2S9 ; ii. Turduk, his pipe, i. 303, 138. . Turduning-soresi, i. 321. Tumshuk, bazaar of, i. II9. Turfan, i. 407. Tumshuk, " projecting point," 1. Turfan-kobruk, i. 24s, 407. 93· Turgut, or Torgod, tribes, ii. 3S, Tung.:khuan, ii. 69. 456. Tun-huang, ii. 143· Turki language, i. 94, 408 ; ii. S99· Tura, " lord," i.e., the author, ii. Tutek, " mountain sickness," i. 4SI. 2S ; ii. 20, 2SO. Tura-sallgan-uy, " House built by Tuvadaku-koll, i. 421, 423. the Great Men," i. 241-24S ; Tuz-algutsh, i. 226. . author rests at, i. 2SI ; camp Tuz-algutsh-koll, " Lake where at, i. 324, 328 ; ·temperature at, Salt is Taken," i. 226. i. 331. Tuzluk-kash, i. II3. Turdu Ahun, ii. 227, S3I ; returns Tuzluk-tagh, i. 125, 127. . home, ii. S94· . Tuzun-chappgan, i. 392, 448, 458. Turdu Bai,_ i. 40, S33 ; character istics of, i. 473, s62 ; portraits UGHEN-DARIA, i. 179. 215, 222. of, i.... SIS, S33, S7I, S7S ; ii. Ullug-koll, " the Big Lake," i. 418. 183 ; takes charge of camels, Ullug-tshat, i: 34· i. 236, 4S8, 468, 481, 607 ; Unkurluk, ii. 214, 217 ; .buying ii. 193, 224, 227 ; fondness sheep at, ii. 219. for camels, i. 279; on-habits Upal, i. 41. of camels, i. 324 ; ii. 472, Upper Kum-koll, i. 494· SI7 ; arrives at Abdall, i. Urga, i. 13 ; ii. 367, 471. 440; returns to author, i. 488; Urumchi, i. 191 ; ii. 471 ; gover- gets in the mud, i. 496; recon nor-general of, i. 4S4· noitres, i. SI7 ; ii. 2SI ; helps Uruz-sallgan-sal, "Russianlbuilt camels to swim river, i. S43; a Ferry-boat," i. 241. left in charge of caravan, i. S64 ; U yasdny natyalnik," district com looks for author, i. s68 ; beside missioner, i. 14. a mountain, i. S7I ; in snow Uzun-ada, i. 9· storm, L S89 ; finds a stream, Uzun-shor, lake, i. 468 ; ii. 33· i. S9I; goes to Northern Tibet, ii. 4 ; goes hunting, ii. II ; cuts VACCINATION, by Chinese, i. 229. up yak, ii. 29; left at head Vanka, the ram, ii. 224, 229, 262, quarters camp, ii. 36 ; in charge 439· S47-S48. of skiff, ii. 37 ; returns to Te- Vases, red clay, ii. 137, 138, 141. . mirlik, ii. 41 ; at Charkhlik, ii. Vegetation in desert, i. 277· See 178, 183 ; his tent, ii. 232 ; also GRAss, PoPLARS REEDS, has sore eye, ii. 2S4; picks out SAKSA UL, TAMARISKS. · camels, ii. 264; with young Velocity instruments, i. 4· kulan, ii. 277; accompanies Verascope camera, i. S ; ii. 394· INDEX. Vezir Vezarat, ii. 574, 577, 589, YACHI, i. 447, 448. 6oo. Yaggyu-rapga, river, ii. 434-438, Vidder, " uplands," ii. 213. 472, 496 ; camp at, ii. 439· Voigt, l\Ir., ii. 6o8. Yak-dung, fuel, ii. 30, 235, 328, Volga-Kama Bank, at Tashkend, 340, 351 ; author collects, ii. i. 6, 4I. 314 ; flame of, ii. 465. Vossion, ~I.. ii. 6ro. Yakka-Yardang-bulak, i. 353,360, Vrevskaia, i. r r. 36I. Vrevsky, A. B., governor-general Yaks, tame, ii. 345; attacked by of East Turkestan, i. 25. dogs, ii. 423; caravans, ii. 342, Vultures, i. 172. 345-346, 348, 515, 563 ; load ing, ii. 515 ; spotted, ii. 39 ; \VADERS, i. 419. sure-footed animals, ii. 565, 567. \Vages,i. 13,81,322,379· Yaks, wild, i. 493, 544, 55 I ; . ii. \Vall, in Lop Desert, i. 343· 218, 247, 271 ; attacked by \Valier, Capt., ii. 6rr. dogs, ii. 282 ; meat of, frozen, \Vang-Kuei, ii. 146. ii. 29 ; shot by Aldat, i. 565 ; \Vang l\Iang, ii. 135, 140. by Cherdon, i. 575, 577· \Vater-shed, between Sea of Aral Yakub, the post-jighit, i. 607; ii. and Lop-nor, i. 29. 178. \Veather, Tibetan, ii. 231. Yakub Beg, of Kashgar, i. 34, 236, \Vei dynasty, ii. 135, 144. 314, 407, 433· \Vellby, Captain, i. 526, 540, 583. Yallguz-yiggdeh, i. II2. \Veil-digging in desert, i. 280; ii. Yalsras, Lama, image of, ii. 622. gr. Y a-rna-chan, ii. 57, 58. \Vind, effects of, i. g6, 124, 144, Yaman-davan, "Bad Pass," ii. - 272 ; on Tibetan highlands, i. 20I. 567, 587-588; ii. 251, 257; Y aman Kullu, i. 3¢, 3g8. velocity of, i. 349, 438; ii. I57· Y amba, Chinese money, i. 40n. \Vinter-quarters at Yanghi-koll, Yamdok-tso, ii. 467. .. - i. 234. 239· Y amdu Tsering, ii. 495~ 504, 508, \Vol£, wolves attack Shagdur, ii. 512, 513. 269 ; in Desert of Gobi, ii. 82 ; Y amen, official residence, ii. 177., in Desert of Takla-makan, i. 380. 28r, 300, 307; frighten sheep, i. Yam-garavo, ii. 548. 484; shot by Cherdon, ii. 275; Yang barrier, ii. 145, 146. in Northern Tibet, i. 487, Y anghi-avvat, yoll-beghi of, i. 149• 529; ii. 218, 299; in \Vestem I57· Tibet, ii. 512, 544, 545· Yanghi-daria, "New River," i. \Vomen, of Ladak, ii. 603, 6r4 ; roo, ro2, r68, rg5, rg8. of East Turkestan, i. 66, 78, Yanghi-koll, i. 218, 225, 233, 249- 88, 417, 433, 442 ; Tibetan, ii. - 250, 396 ; beg of, i. 238 ; fish in, 335,-423, 425- i. 250; sand-dunes at, i. 231 ; \Vood, tablets of, written on, ii. village of, i. 246 ; winter quar 126-129, 132, 143· -ters at,. i. 239· \Vood-carvings in Lop Desert, i. Yanghi-koll-uy, i. 243. 378, 384, 387 ; ii. 125, 127, Yanghi-shahr, new town, of Kash . I33, I35· gar, i. so. \Vu-e (Urgur ?), ii. I45. rso. Yang-kwetsa, "foreign ·devil," i. \Vu-ni, ii. I45· 454· \Vu-sun, ii. 146. Yantak-kuduk, i. 2g8. \Vu Ti, ii. 135, 145, 146, 147, 148. Yao-tso, ii. I39· \Vu-tshu, coins, ii. 135, 140. Y appkak, " scrub," -i. 502, 529 ; \Vylie, :Mr. A., ii. I49· ii. 57. 483. INDEX. Yappkaklik-sai, i. 484. hound, ii. 390; shows fight; Yar;" earthen bank," i. 92. ii. 342 ; starts hare, ii. 272 , Y ardang, " clay terrace," i. 350, wounded by a wild boar, i. 414. 365 ; ii. 94, II6. · Yoll-arelish, i. 457. Yardang-bulak, i~ 352-353. . Yoll-beghi," road commissioner," Yarkand-daria, or Tarim, i. 42, i. 149, 157. 68, 78 ; banks of, i. 92~ 146 ; Y oil dash, dog, i. 17, 24, 238, 337 ; boating on, i. 63 ; cataracts on, ii. 37, 177 ; attacks an ante i. 101 ; characteristics of, i. 93, lope, ii. 257; attacks two yaks, 106, 108 ; confluence of with i. 567 ; captures marmot, i. Kashgar-daria, · i. 148, 152 ; at 578 ; catches an antelope, i. Masar-tagh, i. u8; by moon 591 ; discovers water, ii. 97; light, i. 145 ; at Sai-tagh, i. with ferry-boat, i. 82, 172 ; .I35 ; · windings of, i. II4, 124, guards yurt, ii. 194 ; joy at 142. See further under TARIM. seeing author, ii. 408 ; runs Y arkand - darianing - kuilyshi, i. away, ii. 569, 578 ; suffers I 52. from heat, i. 462; warms him- Y arkandi, or Turki, ii. 599· . self, i. 305. Y arvo Tsering, ii. 515. Young, Sir \V. Mackworth, ii. 6os. Yaz-kitchik, i. 37· Younghusband, Major, ii. 609. Yeghalaghak, "the Weeper," 1. Yiian Ti, Emperor, ii. 135. 428. Yugan-balik-koll, "Big Fish · Y eghin, i. 33· Lake," i. 125. Yekkenlik-koll, i. 146, 425, 426. Yu gate (Chia-Yu-kuan ?), ii. 145, Y ekken -oy, i. 400 ; lakes of, i. 146. 401, 402. Yukarki-Yardang-bulak, i. 353· Yell ow River of China, ii. i:46. Yulgun. " tamarisk," i. 352. See Yen-tso, " salt lake," ii. 139. TAMARISKS. Yer-'J?aghri, f{ a plant," i. 525. Yulgun-dung, " Tamarisk Hill," Y ettumal, tesildar of Leh, ii. 586, ii. 40. 590, 597· Yulgunluk- k91I, "Tamarisk Yeylau, " summer pasture," i. 23. Lake," i. 315. Yiggdeh, " bushes," i. 316, 351. Yulgunluk-kuduk, well, i. 316. Yiggdelik, i. 141. Yuma hk-daria, i. 183-198; and Yiggdelik-aghil, i. 313. see TARIM. Yiggdelik-tokai, ii. 206. Yunduk Tsering, stops author, ii. Yilga, " glen," i. 20, 131. 453 ; portrait of, ii. 459, 461 ; Yim-tso, lake, ii. 532. reads Dalai Lama's letter, ii. Ying-pen, oasis, i. 344; ii. 136; 454 ; returns home, ii. 475, ancient highway neai, i. 338, 493. 494· 343-344; ii. 136; ruin near, Yunuz Beg, i. 191. i. 345 ; temperature at, i. 342, Yupoga, i. 54· 345· . Yureh, Antilope Cuvieri, ii. 416. Yiven (Ivan ?), i. 428. . Yurt, Mongol tent, i. 17, 409, 545· Yoll, "stage" (of travel), i. 314. Yussup Do Beg, i. 142. Y oil bars; dog, i. 186, 238 ; ii. 177, 195, 296, 439; guards ZARAFSHAN, or Serafshan, i. II. the tent, ii. 317 ; kills rats, ii. Zoji-la, coolies crossing, ii. 6oo, 349 ; mauls a Tibetan grey· 601. 613-615. ~-\ao ..-··; ~_ .... ScaJ.,.1:2mill.