CE-NTRAL'. ASIA AND TIBET TOWARDS THE HOLY CITY~ OF. LASSA_:: ( '' ' " - S V E N - H E D I N,~ Central Asia and Tibet VOL. II. c .. Frontispiea to VOL. II. CENTRAL ASIA AND TIBET Towards the Holy City of Lassa BY SVEN HEDIN Author of "Through Asia," etc. With 420 Illustrations from Drawings and Photographs,. Eight Full-page Coloured 1lllustrations from Paintings, and Five Maps, mostly by the Author VOL. II. HURST AND BLACKETT, LIMITED LONDON 1903 All rights reserved. List of- Editions. AMERICA: Charles Scribners Sons New York. GERMANY: F. A. Brockbaus­ Leipzig. FRANCE: Felix Juven - Paris. RUSSIA: A. Devrien - St. Petersburg. ITALY: Ulrico Hoepli Milan. HUNGARY: F. Wodianer & Sons Budapest SWEDEN: Albert Bonnier - Stockholm. NORWAY &l DENMARK: S Alb. Cammermeyer - Christiania. BOHEMIA: jos. R. Vilimek - Prague. AUSTRALASIA: SG. Robertson & Co. ~Melbourne. l Proprietary, Ltd. AND GREAT BRITAIN: Hurst and Blackett, Limited London. Dedi~afion. ~ THE ENGLISH AND AMERICAN EDITIONS OF THIS WORK ARE DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION TO HIS EXCELLENCY LORD CURZON OF KEDLESTON, VICEROY OF INDIA, WITH GRATITUDE AND ADMIRATION BY THE AUTHOR. PRI.NTED BY KELLY'S DIRECTORIES LTD., LONDON AND KINGSTON. CONTENTS. VI. ACROSS THE DESERT OF GOBI. MOUNTAIN DEFILES AND A WATERLESS DESERT. <:HAP. PAGE I.-A TRIP TO THE AYAG-KUl\1-KOLL . 3 H.-CROSSING THE PASSES OF NORTHERN TIBET. 2-1- 111.-A JOURNEY TO ANAMBARUIN-GOL", 37 IV.-AMONGST THE S.ARTANG MoNGOLS 62 V.-SEARCHING FOR wATER IN AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY 90 VII. THE RUINED TOWNS OF. LOU-LAN. A VANISHED COUNTRY. VI.-THE RUINS OF ANCIENT LOP-NOR III VII.-Lou-LAN I39 VIII. A SURVEY OF THE LOP DESERT. A WANDERING LAKE. VIII.-SuRVEYING THE LoP DESERT I 53 IX.-A WANDERING LAKE • I63 X.-PREPARATIONS FOR TIBET • I77 XI.-THE LAST OF ISLAM BAI I90 IX. ACROSS TIBET FROM NORTH TO SOUTH. TRAYELLING AMONGST THE CLOUDS. XII.~AcROSS THE BORDER RANGES TO THE Kulll-KOLL. • 205 Xlll.-FROM THE KUM-KOLL TO THE ARKA-TAGH .. 229 viii CONTENTS. CHAP. PAG& XIV.~ACROSS THE ARKA-TAGH IN A SNOWSTORM • • 246 , XV.-FIRST CONTACT WITH THE TIBETANS • 263 XVI.-QUAGMIRES AND SKY-SCRAPING PASSES • • 280 X. A DASH FOR LASSA. THE FORBIDDEN LAND OF THE HOLY BOOKS. XVII.-THE START FOR LAssA. 2 95 XVIII.-A NIGHT ATTACK • . 305 XIX.-A WET NIGHT-WATCH .• 314 XX.-FIRST MEETING WITH THE NOMADS 32 7 XXI.-YAK CARAVANS : • • 34Z XXII.-PRISONERS • • 351 XXIII.-CROSS-QUESTIONED BY KAMBA BOMBO • • 368 XXIV.-SENT BA.CK UNDER EscoRT. 384 .XXV.-BACK AT HEADQUARTERS CAMP 400 .XI. ACROSS. TIBET TO LADAK. A CHAIN OF HIGHLAND LAKES. XXVI.-SOUTH AGAIN 413 XXVII.-DEATH AND BURIAL OF KALPET • . 432 XXVIII.-THE E"MISSARIES FROM LASSA 45Z XXIX.-THE NAKKTSONG-TSO • 463 XXX.-STORM~STAYED IN THE CHARGUT-TSO . 480 XXXI.-YAMDU TsERING. A SIDE ExcuRSION • . 495 XXXII.-VIA DoLOROSA • 51 9 XXXIII.-Tso-NGOMBO OR THE BLUE LAKE • - 544 XXXIV.-FROM THE P ANGGONG-TSO TO LEH 569 XII. TO INDIA, KASHGAR AND HOME. XXXV.-A VISIT TO INDIA . 597 XXXVI.-HOME VIA THE MONASTERY OF HIMIS • 613 INDEX. ABDALL, or Abdal i. 397, 438, Akin, or chukker-su, " trench in 439; altitude of, i. 400 ; gad­ river bottom," i. 94· flies at, i. 439, 440 ; natives Ak Kasha, boatman, i. 416. of, i. 449· Ak-koll, or Ak-kol, i. 434; ii. I75· Abdu Rehim, a mighty camel Ak-kum, "white sand," i. 00. slayer, i. 321, 353 ; portrait Ak-kumning-:yugan-koll, i. rgo. of, i. 381 ; hired as guide, i. 322; Aksakal, "consular agent," i. 77· starts for Kurruktagh, i. 335; Aksakal, of Korla, i. 222 ; of on wild camels, i. 356 ; hunts Yanghi-koll, i. 246, 248, 416, wild camel, i. 358, 360, 366 ; 427, 436. See also KHALMET truthfulness of, i. 359; accom­ AKSAK.-\L. panies author into desert, i. Aksak-maral, beg of, i. 102, ros, 37 4 ; geographical knowledge 107, ro8. of, i. 375 ; returns home, i. Ak-sattma, i, 136. 379 ; springs of, . i. 375 ; ii. Aksu, i. 332. IOI. Aksu-daria, i. 152, I53· Abdullah, mountaineer, ii. 599, Aktarma, huts at, i. 251. 614. Alabaster, ii. I43· Abdurrahman, the jighit, i. 175- Ala-ayghir, on-bashi of, i. roo, ror. 176. Alai Mts. i. 12, .24; valley of, Abdurrahman Khoja, i. 573· i. 25-29- . Acha, " the channel," i. 418. Ala Kunglei Buzrugvar, i. r65, Achik-koll, lake, i. sgo, 591. r68. Achik-kuduk, "salt well," ii. 85. Aldat, the Afghan, i. 470, 473; Achik-yardang-bulak, spring, portrait of, i. SIS ; character of, i. 353· i. 562 ; as guide, i. 481 ; re­ Addan-tso, ii. 491, 496. connoitres, i. 505 ; shoots an Aerometers, i. 4· antelope, i. sog ; topographical Agacha Khan, i. 447· knowledge, i. 513 ; breaks his Aghil, " sheep-fold," i. 26. musket, i. 526 ; shoots wild Ahmed, ii. 37, 74, 523, 594· yaks, i. 526, 547, 565 ; hauls Ahmed Pavan of Singher, i. 357, author's boat ashore, i. 539; 359· - accompanies author, i. s64; Aji-tsonyak, ii. 568. last illness of, i. 564-582 ; his Akato-tagh, ii. 27,49; approaches mind wanders, i. s6S.; sick­ to, i. 468, 469; composition of, bed of, i. s6g ; death-place, i. ii. 41 ; defiles of, ii. 41-48 ; 579 ; burial, i. 583 ; his father, gravel-and-shingle terrace, ii. i. 584 ; ii. !82.. 53 ; passes of, ii. 48, 49, 469 ; Algre, i. 128, 406. spring in, ii. 49, 53· Ali Ahun, tailor, i. 328, 478,007; Ak-bai, well, i. 299· ii. 36; portrait of, ii. 31. Ak-baital, i. rg. Alim Ahun, i. 92, rsr, 200 ; at Akbura, i. 14. sport, i. r6r ; in a canoe, i. I73· Ak-chokka-aytuseh, i. 486. Al-kattik-chekkeh, i. 205; 207; Akhin, " stream," i. 320. Alla-sangpo, river, ii. 441, 472. Ak-ilek, i. 3II. Almaz, ii. 264, 476; illness of, INDEX. ii. 504, ·523, 53I ; returns home, Ants, i. 465. ii. 594· . Apricots, i. 75· Altimish-bulak, i. 32I, 366; ii. Araba, " Turkestan cart," i. I3 ; 97, I02 ; author testing level­ ii. I86. ling instruments at, ii. 99; Arabachi, "coachman," i. 25. temperature at, ii. I07 Aral, or aralchi, " island," i. 92. Altitudes of Abdall, i. 460 ; in Aralchi, shepherd's hut at; i. 3I3, Central Tibet, ii. 266, 267, 282, 3I5. 284, 4I9,". 475; in Northern Aralchi, or aral, " island," i. 92. Tibet, i. 509, 522, 552, 564- Ara-tagh, or Middle Chain, i. 485, 570, 578, 58I, 589 ; ii. 43, 2I8, 488. See also TIBETl NoRTH­ 238, 247, 254, 258, 26I, 262 ; ERN BoRDER RANGES OF. in Western Tibet, ii. 503, 5I7, Archa, "juniper," i. 20. 53I, 544, 547, 557, 582. Archceological Exploration in Amban, "Chinese governor," i. Chinese Turkestan, Dr. Stein's, ug, 420. See also JAN DALOI. i. 304n. Amber beads, ii. I43· Arelish, i. 230, 320 ; beg of, i. 202. Amdo, Tibetan ·province, ii. 35I, Arghan, or Ayrilghan, i. 3I9, 437- 398. 44!. Amdo-mochu, ii. 345· Argol, " dung as fuel," ii. 30, 235, · Amgon Lama, ii. 364. 328, 340, 35I ; author collects, Amrik-va, ii. 5II. ii. 3I4 ; flame of, ii. 465. Amu-daria, i. IO ; bridge over, Argussun, or argol, "dung as i. IO. fuel," ii. 30. Anambaruin-gol, ii. 6I, 62, 77 ; Arik, " irrigation channel," i. 5I, camp at, ii. 54 ; cooking and 53, 54 ; ii. I36. washing at, ii. 5I ; journey to, Arka-koll, i. 404. ii. 37-6!. Arka-tagh, i. 498, 507, 588; ii. Anambaruin-ula or Anambar-ula, 243 ; altitude of, i. 509, 589 ; ii. 38, 6I, 6g, 73· parallel ranges of, i. 502, 505 ; Ancient Ruins. See ANDEREH­ passes of;i. 503; ii. 247; snow­ TEREM, Lou-LAN, SHAHR-I­ storm on, i. 589 ; spurs of, i. KETTEK-KuM, and YING-PEN. 506 ; summit of, i. 5II ; travel­ Andereh, i. 304. ling across, i. 496-5II ; ii. 246- Andereh-terem, i. 296, 303 ; snow- 247. storm on way to, i. 303. Arkharis, "mountain sheep," i. ·Andersson, Mr., ii. 628. 33g, 56g; ii. 62, 2IO, 2I8, 247. Andijan, or Andishan, i. I2 ; ii. Arrows, ii. I43· · 628; merchants of, i. I49, 328, Artan, "castrated male camel," 332- ' ii. 229· Andijanlik, "West Turkestan Aru-tso, lake, ii. 544· ,. ~ mereh an t , 1. I49, 32 , 332. Asclepias, " rush," i. 320. Andishim. See ANDIJAN. Ash, " Turkestan rice-pudding," Andree, balloon trip o ~, i . 266. i. I7, I8I, 263. Anemometer, i. 4. 8 . Ash tayyar, "Dinner is ready," Anmarju, ii. 577, 58I, 582. i. I8I. Anna Tsering, ii. 388-389, 397, 399· Ashur Beg, i. 428. Ansash-kum, i. 2II. Asia, travel in, i., vi. See also An-si, ii. I44· GoBI, DESERT oF; TAKLA­ Antelopes in Desert o~ Gobi, ii. MAKAN; TARIM; and TIBET. 82, 97; in Kurruk-tagh, i. 339; Askabad, i. g. in Tibet, ii. 495 ; orongo, i. 556 ; Asman, " fish," i. I23. See also ii. 222, 240, 255, 27I, 44I ; FISH. yureh, ii. 4I6. Ass, wild. See K ULAN. INDEX. Asses, tame, ii. 230 ; caravan of,· walks across the Chokka-tagh; ii. 236, 238, 239 ; cost of, ii. II2. i. 129-133 ; his favourite dog Asta akkadi, " current flowing dies, i. 135 ; visits the Masar slowly," i. 94· Khojam, i. 146-147; met by Astin-yoll, "lower road, " i. 297, begs at Avvat, i. 149-150; 298, 3o1 ; ii. 85. met by beg of Shahyar, i. 176- Astun-tagh. See AsTYN-TAGH. 177; describes the. ice-disks, Astyn-tagh, or Astun-tagh, i. 464; i. 21o-216; travelling on ii. 33 ; journey across, i. 457- Tarim by night, i. 2II-216, 467 ; parallel chains of, ii. 54· 43o-433 ; met by Parpi Bai, Atchal, i.