KPFK Folio Is Published Month- Ly by KPFK-Ftvl, a Non-Protit
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Open your ears — IN MEMORIAM: SASHA SHOR (October 2, 1890 — February 17, 1968) In search for the words which would best express a fitting tribute to the memory of Sasha Shor I concluded that Sasha's own words about himself would serve better than anything I could say. After listening to 32 sessions on Cuisine Bourgeoise and attending some of his classes, I would add that only Sasha could introduce a recipe Coq au Vin or Mousse Chocolat and proceed to reveal the man and his philosophy for living. Among his epigrammatic instructions one heard, "You dont cook to impress your friends, you cook to please them." He believed that "in order to cook well, one must have plenty of love.* And that "a little more or less* was no crime. His concept of the truth was not an intellectual one, but rather an emotional experience to be shared at the very moment of its happening; so that, to come into contact with Sasha, however briefly, was to find oneself encom- passed by hiscameraderie, goodhumor, concern but without fear, and above all, hope. He took issue with our Declaration of Independence on its "unalienable right . to the pursuit of happiness." He felt that "happiness* is the moment that isi "How can you PURSUE happiness?" he would ask. The word "happy* seemed to be one of the most frequently used in Sasha's vocabulary. Shrimp are cooked just right when they blush pink with happiness. A good wine is one that brings "smiles in the mouth." The taste of one of culinary delights can be "amusing." The only kind of garlic to us is "happy gloves" (cloves). One does not merely season a salad— one''tunes it up" as with a symphony. He left all ofus here at KPFK enriched for having known him. For me, per- sonally, to have received the opportunity of working with Sasha Shor shall remain a cherished highlight in my life. We shall continue to rebroadcast some of his sessions on CUISINE BOURGEOISE all through April as sche- duled on Saturdays at 1:00 p.m. — Sophie Stein The following is Sasha Shor's autobiographical sketch reprinted from the Folio for June, 1967. La Cuisine Bourgeoise et la Bonne Vie On October 2, 1890,1 was born inRussia. many beautiful rivers, scenic valleys, Russia was at this time very Franophile. hills, and forests full of game. My father, having spent his youth in France, Very good restaurants could befoundup graduated from the University in Paris; country and even the most famous in the spoke fluent French and loved good French smallest hamlets were in easy reach be- cooking. In our home FrencJi was spoken cause distances in Belgium are small. So and food was good, refined cooking. Thanks when spring came, my friend and I took to to my parents, good eating and appreciation the woods on bicycle, on foot, on horse- of good continental foods and wines became back, and later by car, celebrating the com- also for us children a way of life. ing of Spring. The university with its ex- In 1909 I became a student in the Univer- ams was forgotten for months. In the even- sity of Liege in Belgium. Life was very ings we ate in good little restaurants, drank cheap there at that time. There were no tax- good wine, and so it was the real "la vie en es whatsoever and for this reason so many rose!" We never worried of tomorrow. Russians settled inBelgium. With their in- Then came the big convulsion of world comes from Russia in gold rubles (one gold the First World War — and my life was ruble equalled 2.16 gold francs), they lived changed as that of millions of people. In very comfortably and enjoyed their lives in Russia, the Czar's regime toppled; the Bol- a grand way. I, of course, enjoyed this life, sheviks came to power and confiscated all too; and proof of it was that I spent four private properties. We were ruined. I had years completing one year of study. Bel- to start to work. gium was an ideal spot for me, with its SASHA SHOR I started towork in a company controlled can taste differently — better or worse — it lywood as his public relations man. He in- by a very powerful bank — Societe Generate all depends on the chef and his interpreta- tended to produce three movies. We moved de Belgique, which was thebuyingandsell- tion, just as a symphony of Beethoven is in- to California and lived in the movie colony ing agent for most of Belgium's heavy in- terpreted differently by Toscanini, by Bru- in Santa Monica, The amusing side of this dustry, and alfo for Union Miniere de Ka- no Walter, or by Leonard Bernstein. chapter was that in three months Gaby left tange, the world's largest copper mine in In 1934 I retired and my wife and I went for London, leaving me with a beautiful the Congo— at that time, the Belgian Congo. to live in a wildly beautiful hamlet in the house and a luxury car which were not paid After a year, as one of two hundred em- Belgian Ardennes. The name of this ham- for. I knew Charlie Morrison of the Mo- ployees, my first big job was to establish let, nestling on the top Of a hill, was Mon- cambo so I started to work there. I did not contact with German heavy industry which thouet. I moved into a 150 year-old stone like the hours and quit. was at that time recovering from the blow farmhouse. The view was fantastic, and be- Practically every evening we dined at inflicted by the allied armies, I spoke and ing off the main road, Monthouet was known Romanoffs and had the second booth, re- wrote German fluently,but had never taken to only a few lovers of the Ardennes, Our served for old timers. At this time Ro- part in negotiations with powerful magnates friends suggested that we accept paying manoff needed a captain and I accepted this of German industry. But our negotiations guests, and insisted that we should also job to the surprise of Pancho, the maitre d', were successful. have a little restaurant, I transformed the and of the Prince himself. It was a little One of the top executives of the company hay loft and the attached stables into living unusual for a customer to take to the floor. was Mr. Fernand Pisart. He had never seen quarters. This gave us nine guest rooms, a I was very happy there and rather suc- me but he knew about my successful mis- big hall, and a large kitchen. The house al- cessful because knowing food, wine, and sion in Germany. When he was informed ready had a nice terrace with a splendid speaking French, I was on best terms with that I was quitting the company and leaving view. That's how Auberge de Monthouet was the chefs. On the other side, having been a for the United States, he offered me a post born. It became soon very well known, I took veteran restaurant goer in many parts of as inspector of agencies of his corporation. as guests only my friends, who came from the world, I knew the tastes of refined cus- This meant I had to travel ten months each all over Europe, and for the restaurant I tomers and the primitive tastes of the nou- year and have two months paid vacation. accepted only people that I liked. Meals veaux riches. I knew also the people well, The countries for inspection were most of were served only by reservation; and it was having met so many of them on my seven Europe, North and South Africa, Syria, Pal- there, in Auberge de Monthouet, that I tried years of globe trotting; so, in the presence estine (now Israel), Egypt, and Morocco. all the recipes I had experienced on my nu- of a customer, as soon as he opened his I had to represent our corporation well, merous trips. There in Monthouet for sev- mouth, I knew what to offer him and how to so had to stay in hotels such as the Savoy en years I was limitlessly happy. treat him. in London, Grand Hotel Royale in Stock- Then came the Second World War, The Since 1960, I have been teaching for holm, Hotel d'Angleterre in Copenhagen, Germans occupied Belgium, My beloved UCLA Extension, the course, "Continental Bristol in Vienna, Mount Nelson in Cape former boss, Mr. Pisart, was appointed by Foods and Culture" with emphasis on Town, Carlton in Johannesberg, and so on. King Leopold of Belgium, Ambassador-at- French Cuisine, Dr. Robert Haas, Head of Since I stayed in these hotels three and four large and head of an economic mission to University Extension's sprawling Arts and times a year, I was quite at home in them. the United States. Still devoted to this man, Humanities, decided that it was time that I became well acquainted with the manage- who played such an important part In my the part of French Civilization which had ments, the maitres d'hotel, and with many life, I decided to join him in New York and to do with French CUISINE should be ser- of the chefs. Chefs are like any other ar- to be at his disposal for whatever work he iously explored at the University— not just tists, they like to hear their work discussed needed me. On arriving in New York I found French Cooking, I believe, as Dr.