Ancestral Jewels in Britain

by DIANA SCARISBRICK

The Treasures of British Houses wives of King Henry VIII, to Sir another of the Hunsdon heirlooms. exhibition held at the National George Penruddock. Rather than Inside the enamelled covers is a Gallery of Art in Washington in let this treasure fall into the hands copy of the last prayer of her 1984 broke new ground by of the Parliamentarian army during brother King Edward VI who died including as part of the the Civil War it was thrown into aged only sixteen in 1553. Then artistic heritage of the British the lake in front of the house: when the large sardonyx cameo aristocracy. The display of cameos the danger was passed the pendant illustrating the rescue of collected by the second Duke of was recovered from the water but Andromeda by Perseus Devonshire and the lent by the chain was lost. Whereas this demonstrates the superb artistry of the Marchioness of Tavistock and and most Tudor jewels are not the Renaissance gem engraver the Countess of Durham aroused so recorded in contemporary under the patronage of the much interest that I was asked to documents the famous Hunsdon Habsburg and Medici princes. This write a book on ancestral jewels heirlooms - gifts from Queen cameo was mounted to wear as a which have passed through several Elizabeth to her cousin Henry Lord pendant on the sleeve or from a generations of noble families in Hunsdon are mentioned in the will neck chain as was the fourth Britain. of the second Lord Hunsdon dated Hunsdon jewel, a ship pendant said 1603. He entrusts them to his to represent the Golden Hind in In other countries this would not daughter Elizabeth, wife of Sir which Sir Francis Drake sailed have been possible for jewellery Thomas Berkeley to be preserved round the world in 1577-9 (Plate rarely survives for long. It is ‘So long as the conscience of my i) fragile, easily lost, all too often heires shall have grace and honestie stolen by thieves and being to perform my will for that I designed for wear is usually broken esteeme them right jeweles and up and remodelled when fashions monumentes worthie to be kept for change. However there has been a their beautie, rareness and that for tradition in Britain whereby some monie they are not to be matched jewels, gem-stones and pearls have nor the like yet known to be found been regarded as heirlooms and in this realme’. preserved intact with the estate of land, houses and works of art The four Hunsdon heirlooms which which constitutes the aristocratic are still in the collection at Berkeley inheritance. For centuries a Castle in Gloucestershire are of a combination of special political, quality which fully vindicates Lord economic and social circumstances Hunsdon’s high opinion. The which, favoured the British upper unique rock crystal comes classes at a time of rising prosperity from the court workshops of the made this continuity possible. The Emperor Akbar (d. 1603) in Agra island coasdine protected against or Delhi: it is the earliest surviving foreign invasion, stable government piece of Mughal jewellery in the kept revolution at bay after 1688, world. It may have been a present and the law of primogeniture - by from the Emperor to Queen which the eldest son only inherited Elizabeth, or she may have bought - ensured that the family fortune it from one of the many merchants 1 Enamelled gold ship pendant given by was not dispersed. who supplied the London trade Queen Elizabeth to her cousin Henry with gem-stones and jewels. At any Hunsdon from the collection at Berkeley The earliest surviving jewelled rate it is listed in her inventory of Castle, Gloucestershire heirlooms date from the sixteenth 1587 as one of a pair ‘of rock century and most were gifts from crystal sett with sparcks of Rubies Gifts from Queen Elizabeth to the royalty. The Penruddocks own a powdered and little sparckes of great sailor still remain in the sapphire pendant given by saphiers made hoopewise called Drake family. Both contain her Katherine Parr, last of the six Persia worke’. Of great personal portrait painted by the celebrated significance to Queen Elizabeth was miniaturist, Nicholas Hilliard, Ancestral Jewels is published by Andre Deutsch in London, and by Rizzoli the miniature prayer book she hung official custodian of her image. One in New York. at the end of her girdle which is is an opal and ruby star which Sir

34 Francis pinned to his hat, the other fourth Duke of Norfolk whom is a locket which he wears on a Queen Mary had hoped to marry. long chain over his doublet in his It is one of a group of Stuart relics portrait by Marcus Gheeraerts displayed at Arundel Castle with dated 1595. The cover of the locket the pearl she is said to is set with a sardonyx cameo of a have sent the Duke as a token of negro and a white princess - their engagement. perhaps Othello and Desdemona - framed in rubies and diamonds and More sixteenth century jewels are hung with pearls clustered like preserved in other great houses. At grapes. Grimsthorpe Castle in Lincolnshire there is an emerald intaglio portrait Queen Elizabeth was proud of her of King Henry IV of France and a hands and one of her most fine diamond - both gifts to characteristic gestures was to Peregrine Bertie the brilliant remove her glove with a flourish swordsman who served King Henry and allow a courtier to kiss her at the head of a band of English long fingers glittering with rings. soldiers. The collection at The bezel of one of her rings is set o Chatsworth contains examples of * with diamonds in her initial E: the Renaissance jewels - a lion and a hoop is mother of pearl studded helmeted warrior - designed with rubies. It opens up to reveal round the misshapen forms of two miniature enamelled gold busts 2 Ruby diamond and opal pendant hand Baroque pearls. There would be far holding out a victor’s wreath given by Queen of the Queen and her mother, Mary oj Scots to James Gordon oj Methlick, more if it had not been for the will Anne Boleyn wearing ruby and and owned by his descendant, the Marquess of the Countess of Devonshire in diamond' brooches respectively. of Aberdeen 1685 which bequeathed her This little masterpiece was inherited property to her daughter Anne by her successor, James I who Mary gave an opal, ruby and Countess of Exeter. Some of these came from Scotland to London diamond pendant hand holding out jewels - which were in the after her death in 1603. He the laurel wreath of victory: the schedule drawn up of the objects distributed some of her jewels to wreath frames a tiny crystal locket which left Chatsworth are still in the loyal band of Scottish noblemen enclosing a curl of her dark hair Burghley House the great mansion who accompanied him on the (Plate 2). Another memento was built by the founder of the Exeter journey south, and this ring was given to Mary Seton whose family fortune, the statesman his gift to the first Earl of Home. It cheerful company and hair-dressing Robert Cecil. They include was kept in the family until 1920 skills did much to alleviate the examples of pendants and lockets when it was sent for sale at rigours of the long years of enamelled with scenes from the Christie’s. It is now one of the captivity in England. Mary Seton’s Bible and from classical mythology treasures at Chequers, the country devotion was rewarded by the gift and a girdle book ornamented with residence of the Prime Minister of a superb ruby chain of snakes ruby and diamond Tudor roses. given and endowed by the and Esses - for SOUVENIR or These rarities were venerated as connoisseur first Viscount Lee of SOVEREIGN - which has heirlooms in the eighteenth century Farcham. descended to the Seton heirs, the when Horace Walpole saw them on Hays of Duns Castle. a visit ‘in a shrine full of crystal A most interesting group of jewels vases, filigree, enamels and the is associated with the other great Adversity strengthened Queen trinkets of taste that have belonged woman protagonist on the stage of Mary’s religious faith and she took to many a noble dame’. Tudor history, Queen Mary of to wearing devotional jewellery Scots, the mother of James I. Most with her black widow’s weeds in A seventeenth century mansion on belong to Scottish families. The affirmation of her position as the edge of Wimbledon Common, Duke of Hamilton owns a sapphire martyr for the persecuted Roman Southside House, contains an ring which bears an inscription Catholic Church. Standing before extraordinarily interesting collection ‘SENT BY QUEEN MARY OF the executioner’s block at of historic jewels inherited from the SCOTLAND AT HER DEATH Fotheringay in 1587 she proclaimed Wharton and Pennington Mellor TO JOHN MARQUIS OF her belief: ‘I am settled in the families. Two date from the reign HAMILTON’. To James Gordon ancient Catholic faith and mind to of James I. The fine diamond of Methlick who fought so gallantly spend my blood in it’. The rosary studded scent container or on her behalf at the disastrous she held in her hands at that pomander designed as a small book battle of Langside and ancestor of moment was bequeathed to Anne belonged to Philadelphia, wife of the Marquis of Aberdeen, Queen Dacrc, daughter-in-law of the Thomas Wharton and the other, a

35 ruby pendant cipher with the II who in turn presented it to his Two families have kept diamonds initials GW commemorates her son by Nell Gwynne, the first Duke given to their daughters by King brother-in-law, George. The skull of St. Albans. The Duke of St. Charles II and his queen. The pair and cross bones and cross hanging Albans still owns it and other of diamond cluster which from the cipher were added after jewels which belonged to Nell the King sent the daughter of the his death in a duel with Sir James Gwynne - her hair pin and ring Speaker of the House of Commons Stuart of Blantyre whom he had - both set with brilliant diamond descended through the Hornyold accused of cheating at cards. Both clusters, and a memorial ring worn Strickland family of Sizergh Castle were well under thirty and both after the death of King Charles in in Cumbria: now part of the died. Years later the two families 1684. National Trust property they are were reconciled and George displayed with other Stuart relics. Wharton’s rapier was returned with The diamonds which Queen a piece of Royal Stuart tartan and Katherine gave her goddaughter a Van Dyck portrait of James Katherine Clifford daughter of the Stuart, posthumous son of the dead Lord High Treasurer the first Lord duellist. Clifford of Chudleigh were reset in the last century but are always A magnificent ring of five diamond known as ‘Queen Katherine’s’. set star-like round the bezel belonged to King Charles I. From the reign of James I the Engaged in battle with the Master of Ceremonies was one of Parliamentarians during the Civil the most important court officials. War he was saved from capture by He decided on matters of protocol, Nicholas Kemeys, ancestor of the escorted foreign envoys to audience Whartons. In gratitude the King with the king and distributed gifts removed the ring from his finger to visitors. Since the expertise and presented it to his rescuer, gained by long experience was best dubbing him a knight at the same transmitted by father to son the time. Thereafter, to commemorate office became hereditary and this event every eldest son in each during most of the seventeenth and generation was given the name of 3 Enamelled, gold and diamond studded George from the insignia of the Order of the eighteenth centuries it was held by Charles. Like his grandmother, members of the Cottrell Dormer Queen Mary of Scots, King Garter worn by James, Duke of Monmouth. From the collection of the Duke of Buccleuch family. At their family home, Charles went to his execution with Rousham in Oxfordshire there are exemplary dignity. The pear and Queensberry portraits of several generations of shaped which he wore in The eldest of Charles II’s brood of Cottrell-Dormers each wearing the his ear is now at Welbeck Abbey illegetimate children was the distinctive badge of the Master of with a note in the handwriting of dashing James, Duke of Monmouth Ceremonies on a long chain. The Queen Mary II: ‘This pearle was who married Anne, Duchess of badge itself, which is crowned and taken out of ye king my Buccleuch in 1663. That same year framed in diamonds, given by King grandfather's ear after he was he was appointed to the Order of Charles II to Sir Charles Cottrell in beheaded and given ye Princess the Garter and the splendid George 1661 still survives in the family Royal’. Queen Mary’s ruby ring - the pendant of St. George collection. The design is unchanged - her first gift from her husband, killing the dragon which hangs from the reign of King James I. King William III - and her pearl from the garter collar - which he On one side there is a hand necklace were given after her death received from his father is still in holding out the olive branch of to his favourite the first Earl of the Buccleuch collection (Plate 3). peace with the Biblical quotation Portland, and like the earring is in Beautifully enamelled and studded BEATI PACIFICI (Blessed are the the collection at Welbeck. In the with rose-cut diamonds the present peacemakers) with which King nineteenth century Winifred Duke would not risk sending it to James identified, and on the other Duchess of Portland wore this Washington for the Treasures of a gauntleted arm holds out a sword necklace on grand occasions and British Houses exhibition. It is a to punish and protect with the holds it in her hand in a portrait monument to seventeenth century royal motto DIEU ET MON by Philip de Lazio. English jewellery and sole survivor DROIT (GOD and my right). The On the eve of his death King of the wonderful Georges worn at Cottrell Dormers also own the Charles gave his confessor Bishop the picturesque Garter ceremonies records kept by the various Masters Juxon a ring set with his cornelian of the Stuart period since the most recording the events of court life cameo portrait. After the famous of them all, that given by often with amusing comments. Restoration of 1660 the Bishop Queen Anne to the Duke of returned the ring to King Charles Marlborough was stolen in 1965. In contrast with the generosity of the Stuarts, the Hanoverians who hoop is wrought with a panoply of centrepiece of a gold bracelet. She succeeded to the throne after 1714 arms. Since the possession of was mistress of the Robes to Queen gave little away. It was not until Jacobite jewellery was a treasonable Victoria who being proud of the the accession of George III that offence not everyone dared to wear Stuart blood in her veins must have fine jewels rewarded service to the it openly. In the collection of the approved of this romantic souvenir. monarchy. One recipient was Duke of Hamilton at Lennoxlove Viscount Harcourt, Master of the House there is a ring with Each time the large diamonds and Horse, who escorted Princess miniature of King Charles I framed coloured stones passed from one Charlotte from her home in in the ribbon of the garter generation to the next they were Germany to London in 1761 for inscribed PRO PATRIA NON almost always recut and reset into her marriage to the King. The TIMIDUS MORI (Do not fear more up-to-date ornaments. This Harcourts became friends of King death for your country). In this was the fate of the grand jewels George and Queen Charlotte who case the owner wore it hidden made for the British aristocracy gave them presents, a fine watch under the broad gold keeper ring recorded in eighteenth century for him and chatelaine with the preserved with it. After Jacobitism inventories, described in memoirs King’s miniature for her, ceased to be a political threat with and depicted in portraits. Those enamelled blue and bearing the the death of Prince Charles Edward which escaped were usually of little royal ciphers in diamonds. This has devotion to the memory of the intrinsic value, considered not survived unaltered in the Harcourt Stuarts was stimulated by the worth the expense of breaking up, family. The magnificent sword of novels of Sir Walter Scott. The such as the exquisite aquamarine honour which King George Duchess of Atholl had the and rose diamond aigrette of presented the victorious Admiral miniature painted of Prince Charles peacock feathers worn by the Lord Howe shortly after his defeat Edward while he breakfasted at her Duchess of Wharton and part of of the French on the ‘glorious first home, Blair Castle in 1745, and a the collection at Southside (Plate 4). of June’ in 1790 did not remain family heirloom, mounted as the Others were preserved because of intact for early this century the diamonds in the hilt were removed and set in now worn by the reigning Viscountess Howe.

Even in exile the unfortunate Stuarts kept up their tradition of princely largesse. Many jewels which have come down to us were given by Prince Charles Edward during the campaign of 1745 when he arrived in Scotland with no money, arms or support and yet by sheer personal charisma succeeded in raising an army and leading it within reach of London. Those who sheltered him and rallied to his cause treasured the tokens he distributed, ornamented with Stuart emblems and containing his portrait, a lock of his hair or a fragment of his tartan. Perhaps the finest of these Jacobite jewels was the ring he gave a Cheshire gentleman, Thomas Cholmondeley. The bezel is set with a piece of moss agate with inclusions forming the thistle of Scotland, framed in diamonds with the white rose of York and royal crown flanking it on the shoulders. On the back there is the green star of the Order of the Thistle with the inscription CAESAR CAESARIS (to Caesar 4 Aquamarine and rose diamond aigrette of peacock feathers given by the Duke of Wharton to that which is Caesar’s), and the his wife, c. 1726. From the Pennington Mellor Munthe collection, Southside House

37 their royal provenance. The spent prodigiously on jewellery. He London after the outbreak of the bracelet clasp with diamond cipher showered jewels on the women in Revolution of 1789. of the Empress Maria Theresa, her his life. Mrs Fitzhcrbert whom he gift to an English friend, Lady married morganatically was given George Fox, a former salesman, Mary Coke, is still in the rings and pendants with miniature who wrote the history of the firm Buccleuch collection, and the portrait and eye by Richard said there was a great change in diamond jewellery given by Cosway - and a fine diamond 1803 when ‘on war breaking out Catherine the Great to the British suite which she bequeathed to her again with France, and the ambassador, the Earl of adopted daughter Minnie Seymour. consequent advance of Rents Buckinghamshire, 1762-5, has also These in turn passed to her generally the Nobility and Gentry been left untouched by his heirs. descendants. Far more predatory seemed anxious to vie with each was his last love, the Marchioness other in every species of Luxury The name of Queen Marie- of Conynghain who removed two and extravagance and such orders Antoinette is attached to jewels wagon loads of jewellery and plate were given for splendid services made from diamonds set in the from Windsor Castle as the king and costly suits of jewels as had not famous necklace made by Bohmer lay dying in 1830. Every so often been before thought of. and Bassange and which she the Conyngham jewels are sold at refused to buy. The syndicate who auction and ?11 arc imbued with the The most magnificent of all these stole the stones disposed of some of taste and quality for which George collections was owned by Frances them on the London market. The IV was famous. Anne, wife of the third Marquess Duke of Sutherland bought twenty of Londonderry. From her mother, for a necklace which he gave his He was master of the grand Countess of Antrim she inherited a wife and these large diamonds have gesture. For his coronation in 1821 fine collection of rubies and been admired ever since. In the he commissioned splendid jewels as emeralds, and from her father, Sir reign of Edward VII the beautiful mementoes for the more important Harry Vane, the money to buy Duchess Millicent, receiving her officials. There were rings and whatever she wished. She made guests at the top of the staircase at pendants set with his cameo two spectacular purchases in her palatial London home, Stafford portrait: some were inscribed VIVE Vienna when her husband was House, ‘all in black with the LE ROI. The wife of the Lord ambassador there in 1821. From gorgeous Marie Antoinette necklace Chamberlain, Lady Willoughby Countess de Fries she acquired - round her throat was a sight not d’Eresby, received a suite of at a cost of £10,000 - a set of easily forgotten*. The Duke of necklace, brooch and earrings pear pearls known as the ‘Gouttcs Dorset acquired a necklace from designed round the historic de perlcs’ or tear-drops, and from this source too, but early this emblems of rose, thistle, shamrock, Count Ferdinand Palffy the century it was broken up by Lady Garter collar, cross of St. George turquoises he had spent his life in Sackville who had the stones reset and the orb of sovereignty. This is acquiring. She too had a royal by Cartier into a of tasselled preserved at Grimsthorpe Castle. admirer, none other than' the design. In contrast with this pomp and Russian Emperor, Alexander I. ceremony was the hard hearted Some years before their meeting he The Harcourt family necklace has treatment of his estranged wife, had seen her unfinished portrait in an interesting history. In 1795 Queen Caroline, who was the studio of Sir Thomas Lawrence Viscount Harcourt - son of the ignominiously turned away from and ‘felt a sort of foreboding that friends of George III and Queen doors of Westminster Abbey when the person whose picture was Charlotte - was present at the she attempted - as was her right before him was fated to have an wedding of the Prince of Wales to - to attend the coronation. Her influence over his destiny and cause Princess Caroline of Brunswick. spirit broken, she died shortly him much disquiet*. He continually The Prince asked him to hold his afterwards leaving her friend, Lady sought her company and, although hat which was adorned with a Anne Hamilton, a jewelled cross much flattered, she did not lose her diamond loop and button: after the inscribed with a farewell message. head. As trophies of his regard she ceremony he told the Viscount to This pathetic keepsake is at wore gem-stones mined in his vast keep the hat and jewel as a Lennoxlove. Empire - an intense pink topaz, a memento. This incident was yellow diamond and large Siberian commemorated by a portrait Most of the great hereditary amethysts. These last were first set showing Viscount Harcourt holding collections of jewels and plate were in clasps for her sleeves and then the hat and the diamonds were acquired at this time. Most came with diamonds in a chain which incorporated into the centre of the from the firm of Rundcll, Bridge she wore on her bodice like the riviere for his wife. and Rundcll who had bought their ribbon of an order. superb stock of pearls and gems at As Prince of Wales, Prince Regent advantageous prices from the After the death of her sister-in-law and from 1820 King George IV French emigres who took refuge in Emily - widow of the eminent

38 statesman usually known as Viscount Castlereagh - Frances Anne had the use of the family diamonds. Some came through the mother of the first Marquess whose uncle had been Governor of Bombay, others were gifts to Castlereagh from the Allied Monarchs for his part in bringing about the defeat of Napoleon. The quantity and quality were remarkable and included a belt at least two inches wide. With such a collection she could outshine almost everyone and even the Empress of Russia asked to see it, during the Londonderry’s visit to St. Petersburg in 1837. As a souvenir of this enjoyable occasion the Empress gave the Marchioness her miniature in national costume framed in diamonds and mounted as the centre-piece to a turquoise bracelet.

Where Frances-Anne led, the others followed. Competing with her for the prize for the most bejewelled Peeress at the coronation of William IV in 1831 (Plate 5) were a long list of ladies. There was the Countess of Shrewsbury with her diamond fringe necklace and shamrocks, the Duchess of Northumberland with stones brought back from India by her grandfather the first Lord Clive, the Countess Spencer whose collection included the fabulous diamonds and pearls amassed by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough 5 Frances Anne, Marchioness of Londonderry in the dress and jewellery she wore to the during the reign of Queen Anne. coronation of William IV in 1831. Painted by A. Dubois-Drahonnet. Collection: Marquess of Certain families became noted for Londonderry particular pieces and on grand occasions the Norfolk diamonds, the Wharncliffe turquoises, the Buccleuch emeralds, the Carew ruby always made a talking point. Then there were the famous tiaras - the Rutland and Bedford flowers (Plate 6), the Galway and Newcastle feathers, Exeter scrolls - which topped with nodding plumes never failed to impress foreigners.

From the accession of Queen Victoria in 1837 to the outbreak of World War I in 1914 the political climate was stable, taxation was 6 Diamond tiara composed of jasmine and wild roses. A Bedford heirloom probably French, low, domestic sendee was cheap, c. 1830

39 and thanks to the Industrial Revolution and the possession of a worldwide Empire, the country was richer than ever. In this atmosphere of prosperity and confidence while society was still highly formal, more jewellery was displayed than ever before.

Many designs represented ancient family emblems or badges. There was the Pelham buckle, the Cavendish snake, the Willoughby owl, the knots of the Ormonde, Stafford and Heneage families. Leaves - the Gordon ivy, and the Howard oak leaves and acorns - could be copied in diamond wreaths for tiaras. Many were worn as brooches and nowhere did they seem more appropriate than at the annual Caledonian Ball pinned to the shoulder keeping the tartan sash in place: one of the most remarkable of these clan badges was the huge diamond Sutherland cat framed in a buckled garter inscribed with the motto SANS PEUR.

Perhaps there is no piece of Victorian jewellery more imbued with the spirit of history than the Devonshire parure. It was commissioned by the sixth Duke of Devonshire from the firm of C. F. Hancock in 1856 for Countess Granville - wife of the Duke’s nephew - to wear to the coronation of the Tsar Alexander II in Moscow. All seven pieces - 7 Duchess Elizabeth wearing turquoise eagle brooch, a present from Queen Victoria whose bandeau, coronet, diadem, comb, bridesmaid she was, and the Bedford family pearls. Portrait by Richard Buckner from Woburn stomacher, necklace and bracelet - Abbey are set with eighty-eight cameos and intaglios from the collection of the jewels ordered by the Marquess with diamonds of the finest water. the second Duke. Some of the gems of Bute for his wife Gwendalcn on were carved in the first century their marriage in 1872, using Pride of place was always given to B.C. in the court workshops of stones broken out of heirlooms. ornaments received from Queen Alexandria and Rome, others They included a fine necklace of Victoria. Some commemorate during the Renaissance. They are forty-one brilliants with matching events in her life - her accession, set in mounts enamelled in the earrings, a stomacher of brilliants coronation, marriage (Plates 7 and much admired ‘Holbein’ or Neo- copied from a painting dating from 8) - others rewarded service in Renaissance style and studded with the Renaissance, a fairy tale her household, or were tokens to diamonds. These stones were princess pinnacled style diadem, friends, god-daughters and removed by the wife of the eighth and a suite of emeralds and rubies hostesses. Never of great intrinsic Duke to make a great all-round highlighted with diamonds. For value, these rings, bracelets and crown in 1895: otherwise the informal wear the Marquess gave brooches inscribed with the parure is intact. his bride a set of silver ornaments Queen’s name meant much to the inspired by Italian Gothic art. Her recipients. The Countess of Lytton Similarly historical in character arc pearls were perfect, and clasped was very moved when one day the

40 the position of the aristocracy declined. Their political influence was reduced, their fortunes decimated by taxation and many families died out through the failure to produce an heir. One by one the great town houses were sold, and in order to hold on to their land works of art and jewellery were disposed of. The sale catalogues of the auction from the 1920’s record dispersal after dispersal. This process continues. Last year Christie’s sold the Harcoiirt emeralds, this year the Cholmondeley necklace and tiara have come up for sale. There have also been spectacular robberies in which great collections such as those of the Dukes of Sutherland, Rutland and Northumberland have vanished without trace.

The story is not entirely negative. During the inter-war period smart women - Countess Mountbatten, 8 Turquoise brooch: the Coburg eagle designed by Prince Albert for the bridesmaids at his Countess Brownlow and Lady wedding with Queen Victoria and worn by the Duchess of Bedford in her portrait. Woburn Alexandra Metcalfe - bought new Abbey jewellery in the severely geometric Art Deco style so much admired Queen said to her ‘Edith, here is a Craven, replenished ancestral jewel today and which are the heirlooms bracelet for you’. She kissed the caskets and set the fashion for of the future. Meanwhile the Queen’s hand many times to show jewels mounted in platinum in the London jewellers are still in how grateful she was and that new French style. Few could resist business and noble families bring evening wrote in her diary ‘I hope the elegant garland designs for old pieces to them for remodelling it will always be kept in the tiaras, stomachers, dog collars and and buy new ones for weddings family’. It is indeed on show at and many heirlooms were and anniversaries. Those who have Knebworth House, home of the consigned to Cartier, Boucheron, learnt how to hold on to their Lyttons. Garrard and Hennell for inheritance in the modern world remodelling. This style and the often have fortunes in family The old traditions were maintained luxurious and privileged way of life jewellery hidden away in bank during the reign of Edward VII it epitomised vanished with the vaults. Though regarded more as and Queen Alexandra. American declaration of war in 1914. assets than as ornaments these heiresses such as Consuelo jewels do appear every so often to Vanderbilt, who married the Duke add their incomparable brilliance to of Marlborough, and Cornelia With the dramatic changes and great celebrations in family and Bradley Martin, wife of Lord upheavals in twentieth century life national life.

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