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ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2011

BOLD& BEAUTIFUL! THE NEW GEMSTONES

PLUS: Celebrity Spotlight Impeccable Pearls Gorgeous Gifts! Special Watch Section: IT’S ABOUT INSIDE: TIME GIFT GUIDE Panerai:Layout 1 2/24/11 9:30 AM Page 1

THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION.

LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT Hand-wound mechanical movement P.2002 calibre, three spring barrels, second time zone with 12/24 h indicator, 8-day power reserve with linear indicator, seconds reset. Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel buckle.

www.panerai.com ,

Every year it feels like nothing short of a miracle—the cold of winter that we had thought would never end finally gives way to the spring thaw. Bursts of greenery and color begin to wash over the dull, gray landscape that we had become accustomed to for so many months. Spring just feels good—we have more hours of daylight to work, play and enjoy the outdoors and each other.

This issue of Accent magazine focuses on the celebrations in our lives: Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations, engagements and weddings. At Tapper’s, we encourage you to Mark the Moment® of the most special junctures in your life. It will not surprise you that we believe that a gift of lasting, precious jewelry is a wonderful way to mark such a time, but why not accompany such a gift with another meaningful way to Mark the Moment®? A poem written from your heart, a song composed just for the occasion, a visit to a place that has special meaning to both of you—all of these are ways to create memories that will last a lifetime.

Enjoy and take the time to truly savor the moments that lie ahead.

With our very best wishes,

Howard Tapper Steven Tapper Marla Tapper Young Mark Tapper

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Contents spring/summer 2011

DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY

WEST BLOOMFIELD Orchard Mall 6337 Orchard Lake Road West Bloomfield, MI 48322 Phone: (248) 932-7700 Fax: (248) 932-7717 NOVI Twelve Oaks Mall 27716 Novi Road Novi, MI 48377 Phone: (248) 465-1800 Fax: (248) 465-1818 TROY Somerset Collection North 2800 West Big Beaver Troy, MI 48084 Phone: (248) 649-2000 Fax: (248) 649-5076 www.tappers.com

PRESIDENT Howard Tapper VICE PRESIDENT Steven Tapper CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER 26 Jeffrey Garden CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Robert Hutter MARKETING DIRECTOR Margaret De Young COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER

Karynne Naftolin HARON ELLIOT; WARDROBE: MARC BOWER; JEWELRY: DAVID YURMAN, IPPOLITA, ROBERTO COIN, ROLEX.

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR 26 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry Jillian Sprague FEATURES PROJECT MANAGER 1 Welcome Letter 30 His Side: Romancing the Stone Lisa Montemorra 32 Fashion: From the Runways CONTRIBUTING EDITOR 4 Events at Tapper’s Beth Bernstein 6 Jeweler Spotlight: Introducing 36 Profile: Mikimto DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero Paul Maki 50 Speed: Grand Sport Jean-Nicole Venditti 8 Client Spotlights 54 Proposals: Gloves at the Shoe PRODUCTION MANAGER Peg Eadie 12 I Forever Do 56 Essay: Lucky Charms DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS Hugh K. Stanton 13 As Time Goes By PRESIDENT AND CEO 14 Best Bets for Graduates, WATCH SECTION Britton Jones Dads and Moms CHAIRMAN AND COO 40 Watch Advisor Mac Brighton 18 Accent Advisor 44 What’s New: Fashionably Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While 20 Red Carpet: Shining Stars on Time we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or 24 Essay: The Family Pearls 48 First Person: Hand-Me-Downs omissions.Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box

Welcome 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising ON THE COVER: PHOTOGRAPHER: PETER SAKAS; MODEL: ANGELA MARTINI – ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: KIM BAKER; STYLIST: S Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other 2 materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A. Ippolita_Gold.ps -2/23/201111:57AM

MODERN ROCK CANDY® IN 18K GOLD WITH GEMSTONES. ©2011 IPPOLITA®. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Susan Tapper, Steven Tapper, Nina Eisenberg, Hersh and Lindsay Steingold, Ashley Beresh, Don Benyas, Florine Mark Karen Rothenberg Katie Demarco

Tapper’s guests had the opportunity to celebrate the artistry of Ippolita and meet the designer herself as she made a rare personal appearance at our West Bloomfield store. With her understated Italian beauty and magnetic personality, Ippolita greeted her fans warmly as she Ippolita with the Pensler family Sharon Minott, Ippolita, showcased her magnificent line for the Pearl Gordon holiday season.

Judith Ripka’s fall personal appearance at Tapper’s was truly the talk of the town. Hundreds of guests packed Tapper’s West Bloomfield store and enjoyed sumptuous hors d’oeuvres and cocktails while browsing through an amazing extended collection from the world-renowned designer. Having the opportunity to meet Judith Ripka was the Adrienne Ruby Fink, Judith Ripka, Sandy Rosenthal, Judith Ripka, highlight of the evening for Tapper’s clients. Carla Schwartz Dr. Annette Barnes, Florine Mark

Judith Ripka, Denise Ilitch Crowds gathered to meet Howard Tapper, Judith Ripka, designer Judith Ripka Susan Tapper

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 4 33/20/11/20/11 22:24:24 PM Pearl Gordon, Marco and Leora Goldman, Tom Elward, Mark Tapper, Dr. Charles Boyd Kyesook Chin Holly Carlos, Rosemary Rolak

Tapper’s Panerai enthusiasts gathered for an elegant evening at the Capital Grille, enjoying exceptional cuisine and fine timepieces. Created in 1938 for the Italian Navy, the first Panerai watch was also the first military divers’ watch. Faced with the dilemma of creating a watch that divers could read while under water, Officine Les Stansbery, Scott Ferguson, Dr. Joe Miller, Eugene Blakeman Panerai devised a simple solution—make Derek Hurt the watches extremely large. Panerai continues to demonstrate the principles that have always guided the company: innovation, exclusivity, and quality.

Dr. Tom Selznick, Sandor Holzer, Aaron Shephard, Steven Tapper, Dr. Adam Kellman Derek Hurt UPCOMING EVENTS April 29 & 30: Charles Krypell Personal Appearance & Trunk Show, West Bloomfield May 4 & 5: Mikimoto Trunk Show, Twelve Oaks Mall and Somerset Collection June 25 & 26: Tapper’s Summer Bridal Event, All locations

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 5 33/7/11/7/11 111:191:19 AM Introducing…PAUL MAKI

On a typical day, Paul Maki can be found hard at work at his jeweler’s bench inside Tapper’s West Bloomfield store. A native of Berkley, Michigan, the 38-year-old jewelry designer spent childhood summers with his grandfather in the Upper Peninsula. Together, they would take metal detectors and go out looking for copper and raw silver. “I liked to beat metal with a hammer even at a young age,” Paul remembers.

Today, as one of Tapper’s master jewelers, Paul channels his passion for precious metals into beautiful designs for Tapper’s clients. Most recently, Paul Maki Designs has introduced an exclusive line of engagement rings, with each design’s inspiration tied to a particular historical time period. Together with his wife, Andrea, who helps both with ring design and on the brand’s business end, Paul has designed and crafted an exclusive line of engagement rings. Inspired by specific periods during the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries, Paul Maki rings are designed and crafted to last forever. “The design and construction of our rings have been meticulously thought over to ensure that the customer will have problem-free wear,” Paul notes.

Paul Maki’s Georgian-era rings hearken back to a time when precious metals were extremely expensive and engagement rings from that time focused on airy designs. Notice the slim, elegant profile of this ring, as well as the open heart detail that flanks the center diamond. In contrast, jewelry crafted during Queen Victoria’s reign boasted lavish use of precious metals as well as large diamonds and gemstones. Maki’s three-stone diamond “Victorian” ring is reflective of this era.

Art Nouveau is a style of art that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century and manifested itself in natural, organic and floral motifs—a leaves, scrolls, natural look. The Edwardian period was influenced by luxury and lavish designs, giving way to intricate concepts and attention to detail.

Art Deco moved away from the softer, organic, natural feel of Art Nouveau and focused on functional, industrial, clean edges and lines.

In addition to the bridal designs that you will find exclusively at Tapper’s, Paul will also custom-design rings and other jewelry to perfectly suit a client’s individual desires. “If you can dream it, I can work to make it happen,” says Paul. Tapper’s will soon carry an even greater selection of Paul Maki designs, including more men’s and women’s wedding bands, and new engagement ring styles.

To make an appointment with Paul Maki, please contact Tapper’s at (248) 932-7700.

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2011 JOHN HARDY LIMITED NAGA COLLECTION 1

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Page 1 A Match Made in Heaven Tatianna & Jonathan Merritt Married October 24, 2010

THE BRIDE...Tatianna Thomason, 27, A graduate of Wayne State University, Tatianna is an administrative assistant at Straight Gate International Church. THE GROOM...Jonathan Merritt, 28. A graduate of the University of Michigan, Jonathan serves as church administrator at Straight Gate International Church, headed by his parents, Bishop Andrew and Viveca Merritt. THE MEETING... “At the moment that I first saw Tatianna, bells went off and something told me that she was to be my wife,” Jonathan explains. Initially unexcited about attending the event where the couple first met, Jonathan knows that something drew him there that evening. Tatianna knew that she had met someone special, but wasn’t able to get a good look at Jonathan that evening. “It was so dark that I had no idea what Jonathan looked like, just that he was a gentleman and very tall. 6’7” to be exact.” Jonathan texted her a photo of himself later that evening… after some more texting back and forth, the couple talked every day after that evening and, fivenths mo later, were engaged. THE PROPOSAL...On the day of Tatianna’s graduation party, Jonathan “surprised me with a video spoof about our relationship, made by him and his brother,” Tatianna remembers. “The end of the video told me to proceed to the other room for my next surprise.” There, Tatianna found a candlelit room illuminating a banner proclaiming “I love you, TT.” Jonathan was on one knee, and he asked Tatianna to be his wife. “I couldn’t have asked for a better proposal,” says Tatianna. “Of course I said ‘Yes!’” THE RINGS...Hers: A 1.33 ct. round brilliant cut diamond in a custom 18K white gold diamond pavé mounting, with matching wedding band. His: Platinum and diamonds, from Tapper’s Estate Collection. THE WEDDING...Surrounded by 1,500 of their friends and family, as well as several hundred roses, calla lilies and hydrangeas, Tatianna walked down the aisle (that had to be specially built on top of the pews) at Straight Gate International Church, with Jonathan meeting her at the end. Especially meaningful is that the couple was married by Jonathan’s father, Bishop Andrew Merritt. The celebration continued late into the night at Detroit’s Westin Book Cadillac Hotel, with a dinner and dancing reception for 250 guests. The next day, Jonathan whisked Tatianna away to their surprise honeymoon destination—Maui – followed by several days in California. WHY TAPPER’S? Says Jonathan: “We have a close relationship with the Tappers; my parents are actually neighbors with Howard and Susan Tapper. So every piece of jewelry that my family has bought over the last 17 years has come from Tapper’s.” Jonathan also noted that the magnificent diamond jewelry that Tatianna wore on her wedding day was from Tapper’s, as were his wedding band and cufflinks. “Pearl Gordon, along with the whole Tapper family, offer excellent customer service. I wouldn’t have gone anywhere else, since Tapper’s is like extended family to me. Everyone was so helpful in finding the best diamond and that is exactly what we got, plus more.”

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 8 33/20/11/20/11 22:29:29 PM A Natural Attraction Melissa & Kevin Konopka Married June 5, 2010

THE BRIDE...Melissa Cassin, 27. Currently finishing a Masters of Science in Nurse Anesthesia from the University of Detroit Mercy. Loves polar bears, hates being the center of attention. THE GROOM...Kevin Konopka, 30, graduated from Central Michigan University and Henry Ford Hospital’s nursing school. Kevin is a nurse in the Cardiothoracic Intensive Care Unit at Harper Hospital. A former Boy Scout, Kevin loves football and camping. THE MEETING... “Kevin and I met at work…but we did not really get to know each other until later that year, while taking a course for work,” explains Melissa. “When the course was over, we decided to go grab a bite to eat… and we instantly clicked. His birthday was the following weekend so we went out on an unofficial first date with some of his friends. Our first official date was the nextt daya a Detroit Red Wings game (definitely my choice). We have been inseparable since then.” THE PROPOSAL...A self-admitted ‘tree-hugger,’ Melissa says that Kevin’s choice to propose to her at the Toledo Zoo’s polar bear exhibit on Earth Day was really fitting. The proposal took weeks of preparation and required coordination with the polar bear zookeeper and the zoo’s event planner. His efforts were definitely appreciated: “He really put a lot of thought into the wholeay, d and I could not think of a more perfect way for Kevin to propose,” Melissa said. “It was the middle of the afternoon, and very hot. He was insistent about getting over to the A rctic exhibit and I wanted to linger at other spots for a while. We finally made it over there and listened to a presentation about polar bears. I was completely oblivious at the time, but at the end of the presentation, they asked if anyone had questions. I knew something was up…he was holding my hand, and it was sweaty and shaking. Kevin raised his hand, received a microphone, and got down on one knee… I was in shock, thinking, this is not happening…there are too many people here! He opened the Tapper’s box, put the most gorgeous diamond on my finger, and of course I said ‘Yes!’” THE RINGS...Hers: A 2.29 ct. round diamond mounted in a platinum Martin Flyer shared prong eternity setting with matching Martin Flyer eternity band. His: Platinum band by Novell with hammered center, high polish and milgrain edge. THE WEDDING...Melissa and Kevin had a June wedding at the Inn at St. John’s in Plymouth, followed by a honeymoon in California, Mexico and Aruba. The couple currently resides in Brownstown with Guss, the “coolest dog in the world.” WHY TAPPER’S? “Every girl wants the most beautiful engagement ring, and when we first talked about the possibility of looking for rings, I told Kevin he needed to go to Tapper’s, and only Tapper’s,” Melissa explained. “I learned about Tapper’s when I was a teenager, receiving a beautiful bracelet from my aunt and uncle for Christmas. From that moment on, I was hooked! When we went to Tapper’s to begin the process, the friendliness and professionalism from all of the workers, and the stunning beauty of the diamonds made our decision simple. We were very comfortable from the minute we walked into the store…we immediately felt like part of the family. Marla Tapper helped us design the perfect engagement ring and band, and she was possibly as excited as we were!”

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 9 33/20/11/20/11 22:29:29 PM A Thanksgiving Proposal Trisha & M.G. Shapiro Married September 25, 2010

THE BRIDE...Trisha Cohn, 27, graduated from Michigan State University in 2005 and is manager of philanthropic giving at Detroit Public Television. THE GROOM...M.G. Shapiro, 32, graduated from the University of Michigan in 2001 and is the operations manager for Rainbow Child Care Center.

THE MEETING... Trish and M.G. met at a mutual friend’s Groundhog Day party and ended up hitting it off. “We talked all night,” remembers Trish, “but he didn’t ask me for my number.” It wasn’t until the Fourth of July, however, that Trish and M.G. had their first date, over coffee in Royal Oak. “Our second date was two days later where M.G. made dinner for me…scrambled eggs and quinoa. It was love!”

THE PROPOSAL...“Thanksgiving is somewhat of a ritual for me,” says M.G. “I don’t have a lot of family, so every year I cook a large meal and whoever is in town is who eats. Some years I have a half dozen of my friends, some years just one or two. For Thanksgiving in 2009, I invited Trish’s whole family over. Aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole crew. I had my family and friends as well.” Dressed in what he describes as his ‘Thursday best,’ (sweatpants and a Detroit Lions T-shirt), M.G. offered a toast at the beginning of the meal. “After thanking everyone for coming, I said: ‘ I’m very nervous that you may not like my cooking, so I figure the best way to ensure you come back next year is to marry Trish.’” Then, on bended knee, M.G. proposed. “Thirty minutes later, when Trisha was done crying, she said ‘YES!’” THE RINGS...Hers: 1 ct. Hearts On Fire solitaire engagement ring with a pavé diamond band. His: Beveled edge palladium wedding band. M.G. also had a necklace custom-created for Trisha using family diamonds and chose diamond earrings from Tapper’s to match. The couple selected Pandora bracelets as bridesmaid’s gifts and had the groomsmen’s gifts engraved at Tapper’s as well. THE WEDDING...M.G. and Trisha wed on September 25th, 2010, at the beautiful Twin Lakes Golf Club in Oakland, Michigan. WHY TAPPER’S? M.G. recalls: “I called a very close friend of mine to ask her questions about rings. I knew absolutely nothing about diamonds and was terrified I was going to make a mistake without some educating. She recommended Tapper’s because she is friends with Marla Tapper and her husband got her ring from Tapper’s, as well. So I took the day off from work and met with Marla. I had about a million questions for her and she answered every one. On that first day, we spent hours together, with Marla teaching me about the 4 Cs. Marla was amazing. She made me feel very comfortable about my choice. When she showed me Hearts On Fire, I immediately knew it was the diamond I wanted for Trish.”

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SCAN. EXPLORE.

FIND YOUR TAG HEUER

Invented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer and reengineered for our new in-house Calibre 1887 movement, the oscillating pinion enables our CARRERA chronograph to start in less than 2/1000th of a second. 1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com ®

There are as many ways to fall in love as there are stars in the sky. Now that you have found each other, each of you shines more brightly than before. Tapper’s is home to the top names in bridal jewelry designers, as well as to a team of custom designers who are always ready to help you create the ring of your dreams. A direct diamond importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and quality for diamonds as radiant as your love.

The dramatic engagement rings and wedding bands shown on this page represent only a fraction of the hundreds of rings that sparkle in our stores. Due to the fluctuating prices of precious metals and sizing options with diamond and gemstone weights, prices will vary. Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist at (248) 932-7700 for specific pricing information, or to make an appointment.

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 1212 33/7/11/7/11 111:191:19 AM Time stood still on your wedding day… luckily your Cartier Ballon Bleu will step in with precision and style. Both in stainless steel. Gents, $5,650. Mid-size, $4,650.

Anniversary bands from Precision Set. Prices available upon request.

Diamond rondelles enhance the finest pearls in the world in this breathtaking Mikimoto strand, $5,500.

®

Emerald-cut diamond eternity band in platinum, from Kwiat, $28,000.

Even if yoyou’reu’re not pplanninglanning to attend the upcomingu royal wedding, let her know that she’s your queen with this stunning sapphire and diadiamondamond riringng set in 14K white gogold,ld, $4,699.

Crafted in 18K white gold, richly-hued sapphires are surrounded by 124 diamonds to create a stunning effect, $7,29$7,299.9.

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 1313 33/18/11/18/11 44:12:12 PM A perfect graduation gift from John Hardy’s Batu collection – sterling silver bracelets with heart and gemstone charms (choose from either rubelite or hematite). Each, $395.

Achieve maximum sparkle with the ‘Beloved’ earrings and pendant in18K white gold from Hearts On Fire, which produces the most perfectly cut diamonds in the world. Pendant, $3,200. Earrings, $4,950.

Treat the graduate in your life to the finest pearls in the world. A solitary, stunning Mikimoto pearl is set in 18K white gold with diamond accent, on an 18” gold chain, $590. Matching pearl and diamond stud earrings, $710.

Sophisticated enough for his first ‘real’ job but young enough to be cool…the TAG Heuer Aquaracer chronograph with blue dial, date, $1,900.

John Hardy ring with black sapphires, $750. Sultan bracelet with black sapphires, $1,095.

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 1414 33/18/11/18/11 44:13:13 PM With its sports-chic design, retro accent and warm tones, Baume and Mercier’s new Capeland watch is a contemporary reinterpretation of the ‘galet’ pocket watches of the early 19th century. In stainless steel, $7,000.

It’s always tee time with a ‘golf ball’ money clip in stainless steel, $150. Perfect for the car buff -- add polish to any outfit with these two-tone, 14K gold and diamond ‘steering wheel’ cufflinks, $1,179.

The Freelancer automatic from Raymond Weil is modern and sleek, $1,850.

Dad will be at the height of fashion with the Royal Cord design from America’s premier designer, David Yurman. All in sterling silver. Cufflinks, $450. Ring, $375. Leather bracelet, $295.

Panerai’s coveted Luminor Submersible in titanium with black rubber strap, $7,400.

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 1515 33/18/11/18/11 44:13:13 PM Add to Mom’s collection or start a stack today - deliciously colorful bangles from Ippolita (with names like Rock Candy and Lollipop, who can resist?). Starting at $1,495 (in 18K yellow gold).

From renowned designer David Yurman. Sterling silver and diamond ‘Infinity’ earrings, $1,950. ‘Infinity’ diamond ring, $1,100.

Layered look eight strand necklace in sterling silver accented with diamond balls, $2,250. ‘Infinity’ diamond enhancer, $2,950. Bring sparkle and sophistication to her life with the Michele Urban diamond watch (with diamond bracelet), $2,195.

Add a splash of color to her jewelry wardrobe with a pair of these fun hoop earrings in sterling silver. Choose from ruby, sapphire or green garnet, accented with white topaz. Each, $259.

Stackable stainless steel bracelets in ruby, sapphire and green garnet, some styles with diamond accents. Priced from $99.99 to $139.99 each.

TTAP_Local.inddAP_Local.indd 1616 33/18/11/18/11 44:13:13 PM IItaliantalian dedesigner Marco Bicego’s ddramaticramatic ‘J‘Jaipur’a collection in 18K yyellowellow ggold.o Earrings, $1,450. NNecklace,ecklace, $2,180.$ Ring, $2,290.

The ‘Fontaine’ necklace by designer Judith Ripka in sterling silver features ‘heart’ stations accented with 18K yellow gold and diamonds. A stunning way to say ‘l love you,’ $550.

Make a statement with faceted black onyx jewelry from Judith Ripka’s ‘Contempo’ collection. Set in sterling silver with 18K yellow gold accents. Enhancer, $650. Ring, $650. Both pieces pair well with the designer’s ‘Ambrosia’ bracelet with onyx, mother of pearl, hematite, crystal and white sapphires, $1,950.

Spectacular diamond hoops from Roberto Coin feature almost three carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, $6,100.

Stack up sophisticated style from Italian designer Roberto Coin. The ‘Primavera’ bracelet in your choice of white, yellow or rose 18K gold with diamonds, $1,900 each.

InspiredInspired byby the dragon’s ccoat of mail,mail JoJohnhn HHardyardy’’ss Naga collcollection is striking in sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. Earrings, $495. Chain, $275. Pendant, $895.

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ACCENTADVISOR

HOW DO I MIX FINE AND FASHION I’VE BEEN SEEING A LOT JEWELRY? OF BLACK USED IN FINE JEWELRY. WHAT ARE THE KEY Use a pretty black dress or a STONES AND METALS, AND HOW simple top as the backdrop for CAN I WEAR THEM? mixing pieces. Wear a gold medallion pendant along with multiple chains in The trend started with designers adding a black rhodium blackened and tonal antiqued base metal. Or you can mix in real baroque pearls with a finish to white gold and mixing it with high karat yellow gold large colored pendant in crystal rather than a for a richer look. As the darker metal began to sell and the precious gem. A low-risk way to mix real and prices for gold went up, the next step was to use blackened or faux is on the wrist; you have more room to highly oxidized silver. (Some designers still use black rhodium be playful as it’s further from your face. Here, plated 18K white gold, which can mean a slightly higher price mix leather or suede wrap styles with pavé tag.) These metals look great with the of-the-moment charms, or Bakelite and wood with precious diamonds—also black—which are spectacular in rose, brilliant stones. Throw in some high karat gold thin and polished rough cuts. Black can be done in styles from bangles to create a truly eclectic look. This gothic to feminine, such as pavé leaves and flowers with a season, designers are even mixing these black diamond center. If you want to add color to your black materials into one piece to offer a statement jewelry look, try a hint of rough cut fancy sapphires, the pretty at an affordable price. But if you prefer watercolor shades of moonstones and aquamarines, or the simplicity, stick to a pair of cuffs in wood with center gemstones, and a mesh necklace with more saturated orange hues of citrines. chains of matte gold. The combination will be different and dramatic, and take you through the season in style. IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY

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RED CARPET

Shining Stars AWARDS SEASON PROVIDES A PLETHORA OF CELEBRITY EYE CANDY BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Halle Berry Amy Adams Kim Kardashian

ith a smile like that, who needs jewelry? Halle Berry and her earrings were radiant at the 13th Annual Costume Designer Guild Awards, held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. Take your spring style cue from her and try a piece that mixes different stone colors and W metal tones. Here, white and champagne diamonds set in black and yellow gold are subtle, but so-right-now. At the Vanity Fair Campaign Hollywood 2011 Kick-off with Chrysler, Amy Adams chose a classic earring shape with a modern twist. Her textured hoops in blackened gold were an unexpected surprise peeking out from underneath those perfectly tousled waves. Reality star Kim Kardashian rocked a bold yellow gold choker and simple studs at the People’s Choice Awards in L.A.’s Nokia Theater. While her show, Keeping Up With the Kardashians, won the award for TV’s Guiltiest Pleasure, her Art Nouveau-inspired necklace was our pick for eye-catching accessory.

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RED CARPET

Julia Stiles LeAnn Rimes Nicky Hilton

She plays the love interest of a devilish serial killer on Showtime’s Dexter, but Julia Stiles looked heavenly in star-shaped stud earrings at the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. A dramatic ruffle and bold fuchsia lips—both huge trends this spring—made for stellar red carpet style. LeAnn Rimes sparkled in sequins at the Grammys. Head-to-toe metallic can be hard to accessorize, but her stacked gold bangles and mother of pearl earrings complemented instead of competed with her beautifully draped gown. It’s tough to contend with angel wings covered in peacock feathers, but at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Nicky Hilton’s diamond necklace and earrings were almost as jaw-dropping as the models. Almost.

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6325 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield, MI . 248.539.3090 . www.mariasbridal.com TAP_Essay_The Family Pearls.qxp:Essay 3/10/11 2:10 PM Page 24

ESSAY

THE FAMILY PEARLS REUNITED AND IT FEELS SO GOOD BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

s the cathedral bells pealed, the “new” bride and her groom turned grandmother’s necklace, which dramatically looped her tiny neck and to walk down the aisle. My mother and I were in Manila to celebrate grazed the hem of her dress. Aher sister’s golden wedding anniversary. The assembled crowd of Upon my grandmother’s death, she left each of her daughters the parure in stylish men and women had spent months consulting their embroiderers, her birthstone—emeralds for my mother, rubies for her elder sister and sapphires modistes and tailors—all to design traditional butterfly-sleeved ternos and for her younger sister—but she left the “family pearls” to all three of them. After barongs tagalog that would comply with the “Native Dress” request engraved consulting our family jeweler, who had brokered the original acquisition of this in gold on the invitation. extraordinary single strand that had taken over 50 years to match, the sisters While the keen-eyed could distinguish between piña that had been decided to separate the necklace into three equal strands, each finished with a embroidered and tatted at one pet convent versus another, what really set the new platinum clasp adorned with a ruby, an emerald and a sapphire to represent women apart were their pearls. My mother wore her prized princess length strand the three sisters. of golden 10 mm baroque natural (not cultured) pearls and her younger sister Over the years, as they dutifully had their pearls restrung annually, each one wore her stunning choker length strand of blue 8 mm natural pearls. But the real divided her strand and had the clasp reproduced to create a single strand with showstopper glowed on the bride—a perfectly matched 10 foot strand of creamy jeweled stations that could also be worn as nested strands, a shorter strand and pink 6 mm natural pearls. As my aunt glided gracefully past us, she resembled my a bracelet, or a choker with several bracelets. The “family pearls” (as my mother grandmother in the formal wedding portrait that hangs in the gallery of our family and her sisters always called them) had made many appearances over the years home in Manila. at various family events including weddings, christenings, anniversaries and even A few days earlier, upon arriving at the traditional Spanish-style funerals. Once, as mother of the bride, my elder aunt had even worn her set hacienda, my mother and her younger sister chatted about fittings with combined with my younger aunt’s. But the entire original strand had never been their modistes and donations to the convents while I lingered in the gallery reunited until that golden wedding anniversary. Almost another decade will pass studying the family portraits. At the very end stood the “lifesize” (at 5’10” I before my own parents celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary—an event as stand taller than the frame) oil painting of my maternal grandparents on rare and special as the pearls that will be worn to commemorate it. MIKIMOTO OF their wedding day almost 75 years ago. The diminutive figures in the While high-definition video has long replaced oil portraits, the idea of several

painting were resplendent in their native Filipino dress. I was struck by how generations and one very beautiful necklace reuniting to celebrate a milestone COURTESY realistically and beautifully the artist had rendered each pearl in my will never become outdated. IMAGE

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TRENDS

The Joy of Jewelry COLORFUL GEMS FIT FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the Tdirection of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color. Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way to do that.” THE GEMS Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple, are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures, he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality

at affordable prices. IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN

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“This year, you’re also going to see more LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down engagement ring center stones in blues and the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue have another option. Instead of investing in one sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back to buy several long chains and links that can each be in 1981, when she received the engagement ring doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great experiment and create many different looks, for both option for women who don’t want to be too daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces, ‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the of great color.” neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the this season of bold color, choose one with a bright winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neon- gemstone center. green tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges, EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these super- all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it sized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why represents a definite style direction.” not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to also premiering dazzling fashion collections with select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your great green gems, especially green tourmalines, hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates, lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.” eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will accessory. coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you of The Pantone Color Institute, which named shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s ‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one works well as a neutral and we see people more prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck. inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says. It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some its number-one fashion color and, for gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom, spring/summer, the passion for purple continues, allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry the way natural light shines through a stained glass designers are showing violet gem creations in window. everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover quartzes. anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve FIVE TO BUY been wearing forever, this is the season to start Now that you know what these post-winter pick- collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If me-up colors and coordinating gemstones are, you want to stick to karat gold for your precious which jewelry pieces in particular should you be metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold considering? Ultimately that depends on your colors to choose from: rose, blackened and individual style as well as what jewelry you already sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we slightly changes the look of the color. (For example, highly recommend: a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte adorning spring runway models was the big blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add bangle, and they usually wore two or three per different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe, arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and you’ll see how all the shades really do work together. not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of stones, beads, or some sort of bright a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of embellishment. jewelry is collecting it over time.

28 PennyPreville:Layout 1 3/8/11 10:21 AM Page 2 TAP_His Side_Romancing the Stone.qxp:HisSide 3/10/11 2:12 PM Page 30

HIS SIDE

Romancing the Stone MY ROCKY EXPERIENCES BUYING JEWELRY FOR GIRLFRIENDS BY MICHAEL GIULIETTI

was 10 and at an Italian ski resort the first time I gave jewelry to a female. She was 18, beautiful, and to prove my love, I left a gift of shiny dark Ipurple beads by her door, a bold move I was sure would make up for our eight-year age difference. She sweetly accepted the gift but turned down my proposal of undying devotion. Heartbroken, I was not yet aware that this would be the last time I’d give a gift of jewelry without trepidation. While dating Jen, a professional dancer, I considered buying her a ring but quickly decided it would represent a commitment I wasn’t ready to make. Instead, I chose an ornate crystal choker that ended up being so tight that it cut off her air supply. Although she had left magazines open to pages featuring her favorite jewelry designer, I’d been oblivious to these not-so- subtle hints. We broke up six months later. I soon met Arianna. For her birthday, I purchased a Turkish handcrafted sterling silver necklace with a carved pendant. Upon careful examination, the carving revealed a well-endowed naked man with open arms. Aware of possible misinterpretations, I worried: Was I showing sexual insecurity? Was it in really bad taste? But when I gave it to Arianna, she was delighted and wore the piece close to her heart. Ultimately the guy in the carving would remain in her life a lot longer than I would. Moving to New York from my native Milan, I started dating Bettina, a style writer who dragged me to esoteric jewelry exhibits at various museums. “I don’t want to see a bunch of jewelry,” I protested in response to a Castellani exhibit. “But it’s as much your heritage as the Vatican and its frescoes,” Bettina replied as I marveled at the intricate pieces behind the glass cases. The word for ‘jewel’ in Italian is related to ‘joy’ and I wanted to give Bettina a sense of gioia di vivere. She loves rose cut diamonds, so I picked out a pair of stones and had them made into drop earrings, one-of-a-kind, just like her. It’s the closest I’ve come to truly committing to a woman with a gift of jewelry. And while I’m now more adept at taking hints, I’m still hoping to recapture the courageous young boy who declared his feelings with unabashed audacity and an open heart. 1 GETTY 30 Krypell-7Days:Layout 1 2/25/11 8:52 AM Page 1 TAP_Fashion _From the Runways Q6.qxp:FashionRunway 3/10/11 2:13 PM Page 32

FASHION

SUBSTANTIAL PENDANTS PROVIDE PERFECT CONTRAST TO PRETTY PRINTS ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM OF COURTESY IMAGES TAP_Fashion _FromtheRunwaysQ6.qxp:FashionRunway3/10/112:13PMPage33 BY JILLIANSPRAGUE KALEIDOSCOPE RUNWAYS ACROSS

ON SPRING2011 From OF COLORS TEMPERED A THE GLOBE. NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS the Runways TAP_Fashion _From the Runways Q6.qxp:FashionRunway 3/10/11 2:13 PM Page 34

FASHION

LAYER HEARTS OVER LACE FOR AN ON-TREND VINTAGE LOOK

A LITTLE SHINE GOES A LONG WAY…

MOONSTONE MANIA! THESE COOL STONES ARE HOT FOR SPRING TAP_Fashion _FromtheRunwaysQ6.qxp:FashionRunway3/10/112:13PMPage35 NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS From the Runways TAP_Profile_Timeless Beauty Mikimoto.qxp:TAP 3/20/11 2:36 PM Page 36

PROFILE

Mikimoto strands are world-renowned for their perfectly matched pearls; this process becomes exponentially more difficult when strands are longer.

Timeless Beauty MIKIMOTO CULTURED PEARLS—A PERFECT BALANCE OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

f all the love stories over the ages, does anything beat the intensity of Cleopatra and Marc Antony? Betting him that she Ocould consume the wealth of an entire nation in one meal, A Unique History Cleopatra removed a pearl earring, crushed it, and drank the powder mixed After many years of trials and tribulations, with wine. Under her spell and hopelessly enchanted, Antony neglected his Kokichi Mikimoto succeeded in creating the duties to the Roman Empire, thus changing forever the course of history. world’s first cultured pearl in 1893. He then Since ancient times, pearls have indeed symbolized everything from sent artisans on missions to Europe to master purity of love to victory in battle. From symbol of chastity to mystical the techniques of jewelry production and aphrodisiac, pearls have reflected the power of love. Worn by ancient design. This knowledge, supplemented by the Greeks at their wedding ceremonies to ensure marital bliss (and prevent Japanese aesthetics of form, line and new brides from crying), pearls are worn today by modern brides for workmanship, produced the distinctive strangely similar reasons. After all this time, pearls still represent innocence, originality of Mikimoto designs. In 1899, equipped with his first collection, Mr. sophistication and timeless beauty. Mikimoto opened the first Mikimoto Pearl In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto successfully created the world’s first cultured Store, Japan’s first specialty pearl shop, in pearl, launching today’s cultured pearl industry and making cultured pearls Tokyo’s Ginza district. After improving his available to women all over the world. The company is internationally cultivating and harvesting techniques, he was respected for its dedication to beauty and quality. Since each pearl is as able to ship his product overseas, making different and individual as a fingerprint, quality grading standards are cultured pearls available to women around essential. Mikimoto has maintained the highest standards of quality and the world. consistency by devoting more than a century to understanding the sea and

researching the oyster. They’ve developed a proprietary grading system, IMAGES COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO

36 TAP_Profile_Timeless Beauty Mikimoto.qxp:TAP 3/20/11 2:36 PM Page 37

unique within the cultured pearl industry. Although no single factor can contrast to the classic, feminine elegance of white pearls, Mikimoto Black solely represent the worth of a pearl, luster and surface perfection are most South Seas are pearls with attitude, emitting an air of confidence. Day or important. There are four Mikimoto grades: A, A+, AA and AAA, with AAA night, from the boardroom to the runway, Black South Sea pearls are the being the highest quality. A mere three to five perfect complement to any outfit, and an icon of pearls out of every 100 harvested are deemed style and taste. Because of their breathtaking worthy to bear the Mikimoto name. natural hues, fashion mavens and connoisseurs alike consider Mikimoto’s Black South Sea While there is nothing more cherished than a cultured pearls to be among the most distinctive classic strand of Mikimoto pearls, numerous of all gems. With their hypnotic depth of color fashion options abound. For 2011, these include: ranging from light gray to peacock green to midnight black, these treasures of the sea seem lit LONGER from within, conferring a remarkable radiance and sophistication upon those fortunate enough to STRANDS wear them. Ranging in length from 32 to an In 1914, Kokichi Mikimoto established a astounding 100 inches, these culturing site for Black South Sea pearl oysters longer strands are the perfect on Ishigaki Island in Okinawa, Japan. Since that accessory and a wonderful time, the brand has remained the authority on gift for today’s modern CARING Black South Sea cultured pearls of the highest woman. Taking the classic quality. Almost a century later, Black South Sea beauty of a traditional choker FOR jewelry remains a formidable fashion trend as to a whole new level, these style-savvy consumers are embracing these versatile strands, whether worn PEARLS gems as never before. Mikimoto’s international for day or evening, alone or design team uses Black South Sea cultured layered with another piece of pearls to create jewels of impeccable style and jewelry, add glamour to any occasion. quality, from a perfectly-matched choker to a Not only a unique fashion look, these multi-colored 45” strand that can be layered or long strands truly showcase the superior quality for wrapped. which Mikimoto is revered. Each strand is a work of art, requiring incredible skill, judgment and The rules are simple: BAROQUE craftsmanship. Mikimoto strands are world- Wipe gently with a soft renowned for their perfectly matched pearls and this cloth after wearing and COUTURE process becomes exponentially more difficult when store separately so they strands are longer. Demanding the finest judgment don’t get scratched. COLLECTION and artistic sense, only Mikimoto has the ability to Remember: pearls are The natural beauty of Mikimoto’s Baroque South sort and match such long lengths of pearls. organic gemstones, and Sea cultured pearls is derived from their superb thus vulnerable to acid, luster and irregular, yet PEARLS alkaline and humidity. That beautiful, silhouettes. The said, pearls beg to be unique organic shapes of these IN worn; left alone in a box pearls make them a constant they risk dehydration, so marvel to behold, a true fashion MOTION wear them often and flaunt statement and conversation your elegance and style! With Pearls in Motion, the piece. possibilities are unlimited. This unique Baroque Couture is a concept in jewelry design offers the collection of one-of-a-kind versatility to wear Mikimoto cultured pearls in an infinite Mikimoto jewelry inspired by the Baroque pearl. The number of ways. Place the cultured pearls anywhere along the Baroque Couture Collection uses the distinctive shape and size of each slim, elegant chain. The gems will remain in place thanks to individual pearl as the subject of each exclusive design. Nature determines Mikimoto’s exclusive, patented mechanism. the setting and Mikimoto designers fulfill each pearl’s destiny. Says Amy Kim-Araneo, Mikimoto’s vice president of product BLACK SOUTH development and design: “Designing baroque pearl jewelry is incredibly exciting and challenging because no two pearls are alike, so each piece SEA takes on its own personality. The unique shape of each pearl truly dictates Mikimoto Black South Sea cultured pearls, with their exotic the design…as if it knows what it wants to be. The organic, fluid designs of origins and mysterious color palette, are a versatile must-have Baroque Couture really conform to the body and showcase a more modern, for today’s trendsetters looking to make an edgy fashion statement. In direct less traditional look in pearl jewelry.”

37 GIA.ps - 2/23/2011 11:54 AM

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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING. TAP_W_Cover.qxp:TAP 3/20/11 2:38 PM Page 39 WACCENTA MAGAZINETCHES SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011

A T C H W IT’S ABOUT TIME getty 1 / Peter Dazeley TAP_W_Watch Advisor.qxp:TAP 3/23/11 11:45 AM Page 40

WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES

A T C H W IT’S ABOUT TIME WATCH ADVISOR

IS IT OKAY TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH WHAT ARE AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH? MECHANICAL If you love it, why not? Unless you’re talking about a tacky WATCHES AND WHY plastic watch, most of today’s better ARE THEY SO sports watches are thin enough to wear as an everyday watch, and offer EXPENSIVE? features that most of us appreciate As opposed to quartz watches that function even at home or in the office. These electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a can include water resistance, built-in spring which must be periodically wound. A series of chronographs, readable dials and gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back various subdials, calendars and other and forth at a constant rate. A device called an complications. escapement releases the wheels with each swing of That said, there’s nothing classier the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a than a beautiful dress watch and for constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s

STEEL spring 2011, classical elegance is all technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the TW the rage. Our suggestion: build a expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the OF watch wardrobe that includes both maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the sports and dress watches and intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine

COURTESY alternate according to the occasion, materials. But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a

IMAGE and your mood. mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!

I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950S; IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?

THE DECISION TO RESTORE A VINTAGE TIMEPIECE is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless. That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen. In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in some cases, make the part by hand. IMAGES Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored RTI

1/ vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or

GETTY with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement.

40 RayWeil.ps -2/23/201112:17PM

raymond-weil.com | freelancer collection TAP_W_Watch Advisor_Watch diagram.qxp:TAP 3/22/11 1:31 PM Page 42

WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES WATCH ADVISOR I'M ABOUT TO INVEST IN A WATCH AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ITS COMPLICATIONS. CAN YOU HELP?

Moon Phase Subdial

Strap 30-Minute Register for Chronograph

Second Counter Lug for Chronograph

Hour Marker or Index Repeating Slide Start/Stop for Chronograph (Chimes Time Aloud When Activated) Minute Hand Hour Hand

Second Hand Crown Day of Week Indicator Date Indicator

Year Indicator Reset for Chronograph

Month Indicator Bezel

Dial (Below the Hands) 12-Hour Register for Chronograph Crystal (Above the Hands) HORNE JOHN BY PROVIDED Understanding the parts and functions of a timepiece can help you select the INFORMATION style that’s right for you. It’s also helpful later, when your watch requires BATES;

HARRY service or repair. This particular model has both time-telling and time-keeping BY capabilities. The chronograph, for time-keeping, is essentially an advanced stopwatch. ILLUSTRATION 42 TAP_Chopard.ps - 2/23/2011 12:28 PM

IMPERIALE COLLECTION TAP_W_Spotlight_Whats New.qxp:Watch_Spotlight 3/10/11 2:18 PM Page 44

FOCUS: WHAT’S NEW by Laurie Kahle

A T C H W IT’S ABOUT TIME FASHIONABLY ON TIME

CURVES AHEAD

The French word délice translates to delight, an emotion that Cartier intends to conjure with its new ladies’ watch collection, Délices de Cartier, which launches in June. Comparing the lozenge-shaped watch to a baker’s confection, Cartier once again demonstrates its design mastery by manipulating basic shapes to present something new and aesthetically intriguing. By positioning the smoothly-tapered, oval-shaped case on the diagonal across the wrist, designers created a curvaceous and feminine timepiece available in three sizes in 18K rose or white gold. The watch exudes a different personality depending on whether you choose the shimmering gold bracelet or sleek toile strap, and, of course, with varying amounts of brilliant-cut diamonds sprinkled on the case and dial. Amid Cartier’s highly impressive lineup of innovative complicated timepieces this year, Délices de Cartier is a chic reminder of the simple pleasure of a beautiful design.

44 BaumeMercier.ps - 2/23/2011 11:49 AM

With its soft lines and subtle alternating fi nishes, the Linea is a timeless icon of femininity that naturally becomes associa- ted with life’s most beautiful highlights. Each Linea is fi tted with an interchangeable strap.www.baume-et-mercier.com TAP_W_Spotlight_Whats New.qxp:Watch_Spotlight 3/10/11 2:18 PM Page 46

FOCUS: WHAT’S NEW

A T C H W IT’S ABOUT TIME

LINE DANCE PORTOFINO PORTFOLIO

Baume & Mercier revisits its Linea collection this year, updating the fashion- IWC recaptures the free spirit of la dolce vita with a revamped Portofino line driven model with a fresh outlook for a new era. Originally launched in the that evokes the glamour and allure of the famed seaside village that has been 1980s, Linea has been modernized with a new, larger dimension, a mix of a jet-set hotspot since the 1950s. This year, IWC focused its attention on the polished and satin finishes, and a redesigned bracelet, which can easily be brand’s entry-level, classic collection with four distinct models: an understated changed to suit your whims on any given day. Switch from a metal bracelet basic Automatic, a sporty Chronograph, a practical Dual Time for globetrotters, to black satin, black calfskin, or a stylish wraparound brown calfskin strap and the oversize Hand-Wound Eight Days model powered by a new IWC- without having to use a tool, thanks to a clever new clasp. You can also opt manufactured movement that is the same size as a pocket watch movement. between a 27mm or 32mm case, a choice of black, mother of pearl, or silver- Hailed as the flagship of the Portofino family, the rugged and reliable Hand- toned dials, and a bezel with or without diamonds. From a functional point Wound Eight Days pays homage to the original 1984 Portofino, which infused of view, Linea has added a date and offers a quartz chronograph version a wristwatch with classical pocket watch sensibilities. which tracks elapsed minutes, seconds and tenths of seconds on three To mark the revitalization of the Portofino collection, IWC invited a dozen counters. The showstoppers of the collection are the 32mm models with international celebrity fans—including Cate Blanchett, Kevin Spacey, mother of pearl dials that come with an additional black satin or calfskin Matthew Fox and Eric Dane—to participate in a photo shoot with famed strap. These top-of-the-line pieces offer a choice between a mechanical photographer Peter Lindbergh, another high-profile IWC devotee. The automatic movement with a sapphire crystal case back showcasing its stunning black-and-white shots portray a retro vibe as they depict a behind- decorated rotor, or a quartz chronograph that sparkles with 1.4 carats of the-scenes view of a movie set against the picturesque backdrop of Portofino. diamonds set on the bezel and bracelet. The resulting photos will be displayed in a traveling exhibition that will stop at prominent cities around the world.

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DECO DIAMOND TRI TONE TAP_W_First Person_Milestone Watch.qxp:TAP 3/19/11 11:27 AM Page 48

FOCUS: FIRST PERSON by Joseph Ungoco

A T C H W IT’S ABOUT TIME

HAND-ME-DOWNS WELCOME A MILESTONE WATCH PASSED AMONG FAMILY GIVES THE PHRASE NEW MEANING.

s my plane touched down at LAX, the matching women’s version of my father’s new Apilot cheerily reminded us to set our watch. That summer, my mother handed her watches back three hours to the local stainless steel Rolex with the Oyster bracelet—an time. I glanced at my hand-me-down Rolex, my engagement present from my father—down to father’s stainless steel Air-King Oyster her younger sister for her birthday. Perpetual, bought for his swearing in as a U.S. Years later, before my 30th birthday, I called citizen on July 4, 1965. This watch had kept him my watch dealer about buying myself a special on time for more than a decade. I honestly watch—perhaps a brand new Submariner. But couldn’t recall the last time I had worn this when I arrived at his shop, he had found the watch on a plane, but this would be its last perfect tribute to my milestone birthday: a watch transcontinental crossing on my wrist. exactly as old as me. It was a mint condition 1969 My father gave me “The Air-King”, his very 18 karat yellow gold Rolex Date with graduated first Rolex, on my 11th birthday. Two months Oyster bracelet. Its South American seller swore prior, to commemorate his own birthday, he had it had sat untouched in his father’s safety deposit “invested in” an 18 karat yellow gold and box for at least 25 years! I was assured that after stainless steel Datejust with Jubilee bracelet, a quick swipe of my credit card, a slightly longer pulling ahead of his stainless steel-clad siblings The Bond films of FBI check (for the watch, not me) and a thorough in our family version of the Rolex Stakes. (The the ’60s and ’70s inspection (again for the watch), this gorgeous Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my timepiece would be mine. My “new” Rolex father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand, introduced my father arrived just in time to accompany me to my but the ’80s brought my family’s obsession to a and his three brothers birthday party. whole new level.) to the Rolex brand. I lived happily with my Rolexes for several Later that year, my father took me with years, until the event that prompted this story: my him to the watchmaker’s shop, where we had godson’s birthday. The fourth of six boys, he was the Air-King cleaned, the crystal polished, and well acquainted with the phrase “hand-me-down”, the luminous hour markers and hands repainted—an annual tradition. but I think that my present to him that day—a green leather box with a gold Just as I thought we were ready to leave, the watchmaker came forward coronet, the Air-King safely tucked inside—may have changed his opinion of that with a green leather box stamped with a gold coronet. Inside was the phrase forever. At least I hope so…

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THE NEW CEO GOLIATH COLLECTION TAP_Speed_Grand Sport.qxp:Speed 3/10/11 2:14 PM Page 50

SPEED

Grand Sport THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY BY DAVID A. ROSE

t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of Ithe car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-

on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born. Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956, many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550 Spyder identical to the one James Dean planned to race 55 years ago. Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages of coffee table books, in museums or in movies. Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is

Top: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. Center left: A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham

Wallis. Center right: Some of the many cars raced or built by Dan ROLEX / STEPHAN COOPER Gurney. Bottom right: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno.

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Left: Luc Slijpen from the Netherlands stands next to his original, unrestored 1925 Type 35 Bugatti. Bottom left: Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence. Below: Patrick Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP.

racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula 1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in 1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa Francorchamps in the beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and admiration of peers and race fans around the world. As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport, and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.” Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy as we were,” said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each other and new generations appreciating similar things.” The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines magnificent events.” combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13 showcase for luxury and glamour. countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions, been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17- Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.) enjoy. The week-long festival of automobile culture culminates with the At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where some of Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function, on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always history and style. a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay As trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a and participants head for home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable.

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PROPOSALS

Gloves at the Shoe

A WINNING ENGAGEMENT MOMENT BY HAYLEY WOOD

e, the dental hygienist and lifelong Ohio State girl; Daniel, the alone getting a Notre Dame graduate to join you.) “Crazy, isn’t it?” Daniel dental student and die-hard Notre Dame boy. I always thought said, glancing around the stadium. I thought to myself, “I can’t wait to tell M“it” would happen after he moved to Indiana, where he planned everyone that we snuck into the Shoe!” to practice dentistry in the shadows of the Golden Dome of Notre Dame. I was cold at this point. My fingers were numb and he knew it. He We had a date to celebrate Daniel’s completion of his dental school smiled. “Why don’t you open that present? I’ll get another one for the party; clinical requirements, and he kept the location a secret. He mentioned that it’ll be an early Christmas present. I got it in Italy and you look like you could he needed to stop by his office, located in Ohio State University’s Ohio use them about now.” I eagerly began ripping into the package, and before Stadium (The Horseshoe), after dinner to drop off a Secret Santa gift for the I could even lift the lid, my frigid hands dropped the box. Finally, I opened exchange he would not be able to attend. the box and my breath faltered. The night began innocently enough at Burgundy Room, a trendy wine Leather gloves, black and tan, from Florence, Italy. Gorgeous. But it was and tapas restaurant. Surprisingly we hadn’t been there since our first date. the sparkle that emanated from the third finger on the left glove that Daniel pretended to be shocked too. stunned me. I was so surprised; he was down on one knee, there was a ring, After dinner we made our way to campus to drop off the “gift.” I and I was saying yes. noticed the stadium lights were on; the lights are never on. Daniel looked at We hugged, we twirled, we laughed; he yelled at his friend, hiding out me with mischievous eyes. “Do you think we can sneak onto the field?” I in the stands, to come down to take more photos. He arranged for it all: the balked, not wanting to get in trouble. We made our way to the north lights, open padlock, hidden photographer… the whole nine yards, pun stadium entrance and the padlock was open. Daniel exclaimed with intended. confidence, “It’s open… C’mon, Hayley!” Jewelry is inextricably connected to life’s most memorable moments. The I was carrying Daniel’s Secret Santa gift as we walked down the ramp Jewelry Information Center’s Ultimate Proposal Contest allowed couples onto the field. I couldn’t believe I was doing this, putting my head down, nationwide to submit their special proposal stories at www.JIC.org. trying not to get caught. Despite my protest, we finally got to the 50-yard Consumers entered more than 1,200 stories and over 6,000 people cast their line, right inside the Block O, and faced each other. (You may need to be an votes over 10 days. Winner Hayley Wood and her fiancé Daniel won a trip for

Ohio State fan to realize how big of a deal it is to be inside the Block O, let two to Santorini, Greece, along with a stunning platinum diamond necklace. IMAGE COURTESY OF JIC

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FIRST PERSON

Lucky Charms JUST IN CASE… BY LISA DALE

hen it comes to wearing jewelry for good luck, I’m not one to grandchild, she gave her engagement ring—the ring that has been catching break with tradition. In ancient times Nordic soldiers wore my eye over crumb cakes and knitting needles since I was born. The band is Wrunes to protect themselves during battle. In Cleopatra’s days, a buttery matte gold, soft and romantic like a close-up of a heroine from an amulets of scarabs, rounded on one side and bearing words or images of old movie. The diamond is princess cut, clear and full of flame. blessing on the other, were symbols of renewal and prosperity. An engagement ring may not be a universal symbol of good luck, but Even in modern times, our accessories symbolize good luck: Peruse to me, this particular ring is very lucky. Here’s why. jewelry in a Turkish bazaar, or even a shop in New York City’s East Village, When my grandparents first got married, there was no engagement and you’ll find numerous little nazars literally looking back at you with ring. My Pop and Gram were both from working class families: My bands of concentric color—expressions of protection from the evil eye. grandmother’s dad was a city cop who married an Irish-Catholic orphan. My But not all jewels derive their status as “lucky charms” from cultural grandfather’s parents were vaudeville hopefuls who never made it big but mythology. Sometimes, it’s more personal. My mother, for example, has who look brilliantly happy in the one photograph of them that remains. been known to sleep with her lucky pin on when her football team needs a It wasn’t until my grandparents’ 30th anniversary that Pop got down on big win. And these days, I’ve got my own personal talisman as well. one knee, with a real engagement ring this time, and asked, “Will you marry Last Thanksgiving my grandmother gave all her grandchildren, me?” Decades later, they’re still together. including me, quite a surprise. She said, “I was planning to leave my jewelry My fiancé likes to say, “You make your own luck,” meaning that scarabs, for you after I pass on. But instead, I want to give it to you now, for the runes or family heirlooms won’t change a person’s fate. And he’s probably SALINAS pleasure of sharing.” right. But my grandmother’s ring gives me joy, strength and hope. And

To my sister she gave a large opal ring that sparks green and gold like what is a lucky charm, if not a symbol of those things? HORACIO / fireflies on a midsummer’s night. To my brother she offered her father’s ring: Call me superstitious, but when I walk down the aisle next summer, I’ll

a gutsy red garnet set in a geometric Art Deco band. be wearing my grandmother’s ring—my private and personal little token of ARCHIVE And to me, for no reason other than the fact that I was her first good fortune. Just in case. TRUNK

56 TAP_C3_IWC.ps - 3/11/2011 11:23 AM Finally, a navigation system without that annoying voice.

“I’m not saying a word.”

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) | if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Flyback function | Automatic IWC Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portu- double-pawl winding system | guese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with Date display | Antireflective flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees pre- cise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direc- sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back tion, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men. cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel © D.YURMAN 2011 Yurman:Layout 1 2/24/11 9:29 AM Page 1 Page AM 9:29 2/24/11 1 Yurman:Layout /

ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS SPRING/SUMMER 2011 TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY SPINE.ps - 3 - SPINE.ps