Traditional Breeds What are the foundations safeguarded of an authentic by Slow Food cheesemaking tradition? Belice Valley Vastedda Stretched-curd sheep’s milk cheeses are ex- In , selective breeding by farmers over the PASTURES are crucial to cheesemaking tremely rare, as they are very difficult to pro- centuries has resulted in hardy breeds, well suited traditions: Each is the product of a duce. Vastedda, one of the few examples of to grazing local wild pastures and able to survive region – its climate, vegetation, morphology and such a cheese, used to be produced in the the most difficult and dry periods. They are known so on. The best milk comes from places where wild Fiore sicano grasses grow, the flora is rich and diversified, and Belice Valley during the summer months as a the classic fresh . Ricotta salata is made by to produce high quality milk and flavorsome meat, Girgentana Goat animals are free to choose what they graze on, way of salvaging defective cheeses. Maiorchino Also known as tinnazzu ri vacca, there was a time salting the cheese’s surface for 10-20 days, while but are less productive than modern breeds. For therefore allowing them to better meet their needs In fact, its name probably comes from “vasta”, when the production of this mild, soft, cow’s milk ricotta affumicata is produced by smoking the this reason, today they are at high risk of extinction. This breed is named after the town of Girgenti Made on the Peloritani Mountains in Prov- and increase their wellbeing. local dialect for faulty or spoiled. Today it is cheese was almost abandoned. It was originally forms. Aged ricottas, which are matured for up to Consuming the high quality cheeses made from (modern-day Agrigento) and is unmistakable for ince, Maiorchino is one of ’s largest sheep’s milk The odor-producing substances in wild grasses are produced with milk from the native Valle del made, perhaps by chance, from the incomplete two months, are ideal for grating. Ricotta infornata their milk and their meat is a great way to support its very long spiraled, or corkscrewed, horns. Its cheeses, with each form weighing between 10 -18 fat-soluble and are transmitted to cheese via the Belice sheep. Vastedda is a highly fragrant and fermentation of Canestrato cheese. The curds are is produced by placing one- or two-day-old ricotta the breeders that are the custodians of these ani- coat and horns resemble wild Asian goats, and kilos. It is produced from raw sheep’s milk with the fats contained in milk. Feeding livestock with wild smooth cheese with an intense flavor, which is first broken up into small grain-sized pieces with into ceramic vessels and baking them in an oven for mals and will help ensure their survival! according to some its origins can be traced back Nebrodi Provola addition of a small amount of goat’s or cow’s milk. grasses – through grazing on pastures and alpine eaten fresh within a few days of production. a wooden stick called a rotula, placed into molds three hours, producing a thin, reddish-brown film to the goats of Tibet in the Himalayas. Interesting The complicated production technique includes a meadows and using local hay – is an ancient prac- This traditional Sicilian cow’s milk and left to rest. They are then placed into the whey on the surface. Ricotta infornata can be cooked a goat cheeses are made from its milk in the region long period of poking of the curds with a thin stick Cinisara Cattle tice that must be preserved. cheese is made by cheesemakers in the Nebrodi known as a “minacino”, which is inserted repeat- again. After being salted, the forms are aged from second time for 12 hours, in which case it is called around Agrigento. Caciocavallo Palermitano Mountains, whose pastures are situated largely edly into the forms that are then pressed by hand 60 days to one year. The mold that grows on the “double-oven ricotta”. There are a handful of pro- The Cinisara is a medium-sized breed that is char- Caciocavallo produced in the region is tra- Cheese traditions rely on the processing within the Nebrodi National Park. The size varies to drain out the whey. Maiorchino is cylindrical with surface of the cheese gives the rind a greyish-green ducers who continue to produce an extremely rare acterized by its deep black coat, long curved horns ditionally made from the milk of the Cinisara cattle of raw milk. In addition to destroying any depending on the production area, ranging from a flat or slightly concave sides, a yellow-amber rind color. The paste is white, soft and compact. The fi- form of ricotta that is made by coagulating whey in the males and its ability to graze the most inac- breed. It is considered to be the best use of the harmful bacteria, pasteurization destroys good kilo in the northwest Nebrodi, to a kilo and a half that turns brown as it matures and a compact paste nal forms are cylindrical with flat faces and weigh with a fig branch, thistles or wild artichokes, or cessible pastures of the mountains around Palermo. modest amount of extraordinary milk produced by bacteria that are needed to transform milk into or more in the central Nebrodi, and up to five kilos that is white tending to straw colored. It is excellent around two kilos. Fiore Sicano is produced in the even using seawater for the salting. Only in Sicily While it only produces about half of the quantity of Cinisara cows, which has a good fat content and cheese, neutralizing the milk and essentially ren- in the eastern Nebrodi. It is oval in shape, with the consumed after four months, but can be aged for central area of the Sicanian Mountains, between can so many variations of the humble ricotta be milk produced by a Friesian, the milk is very high is rich in aromas due to the vegetation they graze dering it lifeless. Without the original lactic flora, classic head typical of Caciocavallo cheeses (used up to 24 months. the provinces of Agrigento and Palermo. found, along with the use of this dairy product in a in quality and is used to produce Caciocavallo Pal- on in the mountains of Palermo. The rectangular you get an anonymous product that displays no to tie and hang the cheese for aging). The cheeses large number of recipes. Ricotta is an indispensible ermitano. forms of stretched curd are matured in cool, natural ties to its region of origin: a homogenized cheese have a smooth, shiny skin and are straw-amber in Ricotta ingredient for many Sicilian pastry traditions, cru- color. Nebrodi Provola can be consumed fresh but environments and placed on wooden planks rather that can be replicated anywhere. Ricotta is a dairy product that is produced by re- cial to cassata, cannoli, cassatelle and many more the flavor improves with aging, varying from sweet than being hung like their heavier and larger cous- This is why RAW MILK cheeses are tastier, more heating the whey that remains after cow’s, goat’s sweets. to piquant. in, Ragusano. After a full year of aging, the Paler- complex and more interesting. or sheep’s milk is used to produce pecorino, Cacio- Enna Piacentinu mitano exhibits notes of citrus, sage and dried hay, Canestrato and has a mellow and lasting flavor with a slightly cavallo or other cheeses. The process involves heat- Over time, man has selected the breeds Comisana, Pinzirita and Valle del Belice are a ing the whey after adding a little salt, until white Canestrato is a semi-hard, cooked cheese, made in few of the native sheep breeds that are raised piquant finish. most-suited to milk production and cheese- flakes of curdled protein, residual fats, lactose and varying sizes, primarily from cow’s milk, sometimes in the hills of Enna, where the pastures are making, choosing those that are most productive or coagulated mineral salts form. The curds are col- with the addition of goat’s or sheep’s milk. Produc- rich with herbal aromas. Since ancient times, Sicilian Pecorino have the best quality milk, but above all, favoring lected with a strainer and placed into small pierced tion of this cheese in Sicily is mentioned in docu- their milk has been mixed with saffron grown According to experts, this is probably Europe’s old- breeds that are most-suited to the territory. Today baskets called fiscelle on a sloped workbench to ments dating back to the 13th century and it seems in the region, or sometimes peppercorns, to est cheese, and it was certainly the first cheese to many of these breeds are disappearing. As industry allow them to drain. There are many variations on it was made by cattle herdsmen during the spring make Piacentinu – named after the dialect Ragusano be produced on the island. It is made by heating demands high production quantities and standard- to make use of excess sheep’s milk at that time word meaning “pleasurable.” The production raw sheep’s milk and adding lamb rennet. The curd ization, LOCAL NATIVE BREEDS have been re- Ragusano (or scaluni in local dialect) is a stretched- of year. When fresh and unsalted, it is also called methods, which involve adding warm water to is then broken up into lentil-sized pieces with a rot- placed by “milk machines”, to the detriment of the curd cow’s milk cheese produced on the Hyblaean Pla- tumazzu or “first salt”. Its name comes from canes- Modicana Cow Ragusano Donkey the curd and the careful use of salt, produce ula (a wooden stick) and placed into small baskets quality and variety of both milk and cheese. Today, teau, where the pastures are rich in herbal and floral tri, the name given to the traditional cane baskets one of Sicily’s mildest cheeses. After being that, in some cases, are still made from cane. The Modicana cattle are primarily raised in the south of Farming of this breed is increasing due to the health breeders who continue their role as custodians of aromas. Its origin is linked to the historic breeding of that the curds are placed into, and which give the aged for around 60 days, it develops a delicate Madonie Provola unsalted mass is called “tuma”, but once the forms Sicily, in the Hyblaean and Sicanian mountains. It benefits of its milk, which is very suitable for new- these at-risk breeds need our assistance. aroma and a sweet, aromatic flavor. the native Modicana cattle breed, which today is at rind its characteristic markings. The weight varies is a large breed with a reddish coat, darker among borns with intolerance problems, as it is similar to This cheese is made within one of Italy’s most bio- have been dry-salted they are called “first salt”. Af- risk of extinction. A handful of cheesemakers, includ- from 4 to 14 kilos. A variation on this cheese, with the males. In the Hyblaean they graze on pastures human milk. It is also used in cosmetics. It is a large Pastures, raw milk and local breeds: these diversity-rich areas, the Madonie Mountains, which ter ten days, as production proceeds, they become ing one of the Slow Food Presidium producers, still the addition of black peppercorns, is canestrato enclosed by white stonewalls. Here, they are often and very strong donkey, previously used as a form elements amount to nothing without the lie mostly within the Madonie Regional Natural known as “second salt”, then, after successive produce it today using only milk from the Modicana. pipatu. Canestrato is produced across Sicily. seen eating the fruit of the carob trees, which are of transport, as well as to turn millstones. Today the TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE of cheesemakers: Park. A typical cow’s milk stretched-curd cheese saltings from around 2 weeks to 2 months, they Ragusano is rectangular in shape with rounded edges. common to the area and provide part of their diet. breed is also being used in children’s educational the fruit of creativity, ingenuity and craftsmanship, (like its cousin Nebrodi Provola), it is shaped like become known as “semi-mature” (2 - 4 months) Each cheese weighs between 12 to 16 kilograms. The Caci Figurati Rich in casein and high in fat, their milk is used to activities and for riding therapy. The coat is dark passed down from generation to generation to al- a rounded flask and has a smooth, thin rind that cheese’s smooth, thin rind has a yellowish-golden and then “mature” (more than 4 months). Pecorino Caci figurati are the animal-shaped, stretched-curd produce Ragusano and Caciocavallo. reddish-brown with a light-grey middle. They have low the production of an infinite variety of cheeses is straw-yellow in color. The Presidium Provola is color that deepens as it matures. The compact paste is produced across the island, with slightly different cheeses that a few skilled cheesemakers still pro- large eyes surrounded by a ring of white fur. for thousands of years. It is also crucial that we made following artisanal methods from raw cow’s is white to straw colored and displays characteristics methods used according to the production area. In duce today, especially around Nebrodi. Made into preserve knowledge. With the abandonment of milk with the addition of a small amount of sheep’s such as aging cracks. Ragusano is hung on thick cords some cases, whole peppercorns (pipatu) are added. the forms of horses, hens, calves, deer, goats, doves agriculture and breeding, and the disappearance milk. A lightly smoked version of the cheese is also for a maturation period of at least four months. When and other animals, they are not fit for consumption of the generations that hold cheesemaking know- made. It can be eaten fresh, but acquires more produced outside the PDO (protected designation of but are mostly used for decoration and to entertain how, we risk losing an entire food heritage. character and complexity with a minimum aging origin) area, the cheese is called Cosacavaddu Ibleo. children. They are also an important reminder of the period of 60 days. great craftsmanship that is disappearing.

Sicilian Roots Slow Food Producers Sicily’s Shepherds and Cheesemakers Presidia 11 - Nunzio Caruso 23 - Kalat Scibet 34 - Caseificio Ragusa 37 - Calogero 40 - Filippo Sorce 43 - Tenuta Bubudello Bronte (Ct) – Contrada Acquavena Calascibetta (En) – Contrada Casalotto - Manna Cesarò (Me) – Via Trieste, 44 Cesarò (Me) – Contrada Latino Lorione Caltanissetta – Contrada Chiapperia Rocche Enna – Contrada Bubudello Mob. 331 3085288 / 328 8604939 Mob. 333 7110266 Mob. 380 4519908 Tel. 095 8838005 – Mob. 333 6981647 Mob. 340 3277531 Mob. 368 671316 They make raw milk cheeses, following tradi- There are 232 Slow Food Presidia in Italy and 1 - Sebastiano Agostino Ninone [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] tional methods that have been handed down more than 200 in 56 other countries around the Mirto (Me) – Via S. Rocco, 15 from one generation to the next, without the world. 12 - Il Cavalcatore 24 - Rosario Leggio 35 - Caseificio Risveglio dei Nebrodi 38 - Giovanni Scalora 41 - Caseificio Spitale 44 - Caseificio Valvo use of industrial enzymes. They raise native Tel. 0941 919403 – Mob. 338 5787033 animal breeds, some of which are at risk of • The Presidia involve more than 12,000 small- [email protected] Assoro (En) – Contrada Cavalcatore Ragusa – Contrada Pozzi (Me) – Contrada Rinazzo (Pa) – Contrada Zucco Enna – Via Mercato Sant’Antonio, 34 Enna Bassa – Contrada Salerno extinction, grazing them on the island’s un- scale producers: farmers, fishers, butchers, shep- Tel. 0935 667255 Mob. 330 377024 Tel. 0941 497247 Mob. 328 3097276 Tel. 0935 30260 Tel. 0935 541669 – Mob. 328 9743136 contaminated pastures for much of the year. herds, cheesemakers, bakers and pastry artisans. 2 - Tindaro Agostino Ninone [email protected] [email protected] Mob. 320 7819457 / 339 4757220 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] They are the heirs and custodians of a dairy Mirto (Me) – Località Fiumara contrada Oliveto tradition established in Sicily for thousands of • They are concrete and virtuous examples Tel. 0941 919279 – Mob. 335 6651139 13 - Liborio Cucchiara 25 - Liborio Mangiapane 36 - Sapori Antichi di Laura Giocondo 39 - Concetto Scardaci 42 - Società Cooperativa Stella 45 - Salvatore Vassallo years. of a new model of agriculture, based on quality, [email protected] Salemi (Tp) – Contrada Cammarata (Ag) – Contrada Casalicchio Poggioreale (Tp) – Corso Umberto I, 30 Noto (Sr) – Via Littara, 11 Contrada Grattaluri Enna – Contrada Cozzo di Povero - Santa Mariola Licata (Ag) – Contrada Volpara To assist them to preserve and pass on this recovering traditional knowledge and respecting Tel. 0924 68023 – Mob. 333 3419865 Tel. 0922 904474 – Mob. 328 3080712 Mob. 320 4835107 / 320 7054337 Mob. 320 6747170 Tel. 0935 1824639 – Mob. 348 7760606 Mob. 336 401734 extraordinary heritage, which encompasses the seasons and animal welfare. 3 - Antico Cuore Verde [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] culture, biodiversity and pleasure, we must get • They safeguard products that are good, high Noto (Sr) – Contrada Pianette to know their stories, visit their farms (many 14 - Pietro Di Venti 26 - Melchiorre Mangiaracina quality and rooted in local cultures; clean, pro- Tel. 0931 881530 – Mob. 331 2062663 offer accommodation and educational activi- [email protected] Calascibetta (En) – Contrada Tresauro Sambuca di Sicilia (Ag) – Contrada Gellizzo duced using sustainable methods that respect ties) and taste and buy their cheeses. Mob. 338 8454255 Mob. 333 3618506 For more information, visit the website: the region and the environment; and fair, pro- 4 - Asilat [email protected] [email protected] duced with respect for workers’ rights and cul- Giarre (Ct) – Via Miscarello-Salice, 41 www.sicilianroots.com ture, and that guarantee decent incomes.

Mob. 333 5275920 15 - Fattoria Fabio 27 - Raffaello Maugeri Legend

• They strengthen local economies and pro- [email protected] Galati Mamertino (Me) – Contrada Sciara Aidone (En) – Contrada Casalgismondo www.sicilianroots.com Tel. 0941 434042 – Mob. 389 1628966 Mob. 335 5252807 mote the creation of a strong alliance between Accommodation

producers and consumers. 5- Masseria Barbaccia [email protected] – www.fattoriafabio.it [email protected]

: @ Alberto Peroli, Slow Food Enna Piacentinu Presidium Piacentinu Enna Food Slow Peroli, Alberto @ : Cover

Godrano (Pa) – Contrada Monticchio Restaurant / tastings

Armando Rotoletti Armando Mob. 349 5833832 16 - Antonino Fioriglio 28 - Antonino Merendino

Paolo Andrea Montanaro, Alberto Peroli, Guglielmo Portelli, Portelli, Guglielmo Peroli, Alberto Montanaro, Andrea Paolo The “Presidio Slow Food” [email protected] (Me) – Via Venezia, 29 Contrada Bafi Carlentini (Sr) – Contrada Favara Didactic farm

Artusi, Fabio Archive, Food Slow © :

Photographs logo is used on product la- Tel. 0921 381879 Mob. 327 0832880

: Alessia Paschetta Alessia :

Graphic design Graphic bels and packaging in Italy 6 - Vincenzo Barreca Mob. 327 55506488 / 333 7469809 [email protected] Slow Food Presidium

Bess Mucke, Cate Mann, Simone Gie Simone Mann, Cate Mucke, Bess Translation and Editing: and Translation to identify producers who (Pa) – Contrada Abbate [email protected]

Eleonora Giannini, Alessandro Marzo, Raffaella Ponzio Raffaella Marzo, Alessandro Giannini, Eleonora are participating in Slow Tel. 0921 643721 – Mob. 335 8264671 29 - Mario Mirabile Dotta, Martina Ciociola, Salvatore

Editorial team: team: Editorial Food Presidia projects and 17 - Giovanni Floridia S. Lucia del Mela (Me) – Contrada Fanuso [email protected] Messina

have agreed to a production protocol based on Ispica (Rg) – Contrada Scorsone Zucchero Tel. 090 935886 – Mob. 360 531442

contained therein. delle informazioni in essa contenute. essa in informazioni delle therein. contained PALERMO

not responsible for any use that may be made of the information information the of made be may that use any for responsible not respect for traditions and environmental sustain- 7 - Fratelli Borrello Tel. 0932 952370 – Mob. 333 8701621 1 29 sole responsibility of Slow Food. The European Commission is is Commission European The Food. Slow of responsibility sole 22

ability. [email protected] 30 - Montalbo di Giacomo Gatì 2 The contents and opinions expressed in this publication are the the are publication this in expressed opinions and contents The Sinagra (Me) – Contrada Forte, 7

10

Tel. 0941 594844 / 594436 – Mob. 333 1690200 Campobello di Licata (Ag) – Contrada Montalbo 7 the European Union. European the 8 38

18 - Salvatrice Floridia Tel. 0922 877604 – Mob. 339 2015195 Trapani 15

The Lactimed project receives 90% of its funding from funding its of 90% receives project Lactimed The > For more information and for the Presidia [email protected] 33 35

producers’ contact details, visit the website: Rosolini (Sr) – Contrada Pernice [email protected] 21

A E P O UR E Unione

dall’ www.slowfoodfoundation.org 8 - Salvatore Brusca Tel. 0931 851032 – Mob. 328 0055244 6

16 finanziato 34 (Pa) – Contrada Marzuso 31 - Ovini e Natura 11

Progetto Progetto 19 - Caseificio Gadduzzu Santa Margherita Belice (Ag) – Contrada Rametta 13 5 37 Mob. 338 1432775 36 [email protected] Mussomeli (Cl) – Via S. Quasimodo, 42 Mob. 339 3464087 32 [email protected] Mob. 338 8958000 31 25 4 Slow Food 9 - Luca Cammarata [email protected] 23 14 32 - Salvatore Passalacqua 26 Caltanissetta – Contrada Chiapparia 19 43 12 Chefs’ 20 - Caseificio Interrante (Pa) – Contrada Baronaggio 20 42 Tel. 0934 551254 – Mob. 335 6524913 44 41 [email protected] Menfi (Ag) – Contrada Cinquanta Tel. 091 8218606 9 40 Enna Alliance www.aziendacammarata.it Mob. 338 3348447 / 329 6395342 [email protected] Catania Caltanissetta 10 - Giuseppe Cappello 21 - Grazia Sandra Invidiata 33 - Salvatore Polizzi 27 A network of restaurants Basicò (Me) – Via Vittorio Emanuele III, 5 (Pa) – Contrada Santa Anastasia Monreale (Pa) – Contrada Dammusi Tel. 0921 661536 – Mob. 328 4723440 Mob. 389 1158911 and osterias that are Tel. 0941 85013 – Mob. 368 3822147 Agrigento 30 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] committed to using local, 28 Sicilian Roots seasonal and Slow Food Sicily’s Shepherds and Cheesemakers Presidia products on a 22 - Domenico Isgrò regular basis, and include (Me) – Contrada Carone 45 the producers’ names on Mob. 338 1885400 their menus. [email protected] Siracusa

24 39 Ragusa 3 18 17

> Find their details on the website www.slowfoodfoundation.com/alliance and pay them a visit! www.sicilianroots.com