WALKING ON THE About the Author Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 90 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written extensively for several outdoor magazines and other publications, and has appeared on radio and television. Paddy uses a tablet computer to write his route descriptions while walking. His descrip- tions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them. Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain’s National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, Tibet, Korea, Africa and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. Paddy is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, and President of the Backpackers Club. WALKING ON THE AZORES Other Cicerone guides by the author Glyndwr’s Way Trekking in the Alps (contributing 70 ROUTES ACROSS SÃO MIGUEL, SANTA MARIA, Mountain Walking in Mallorca author) The Cleveland Way and the Yorkshire Walking and Trekking in Iceland TERCEIRA, GRACIOSA, SÃO JORGE, PICO, FAIAL, Wolds Way Walking in County Durham The GR5 Trail Walking in Menorca FLORES AND CORVO The GR20 Corsica Walking in Sardinia The Great Glen Way Walking in the Isles of Scilly by Paddy Dillon The Irish Coast to Coast Walk Walking in the North Pennines The Mountains of Ireland Walking on Arran The National Trails Walking on Gran Canaria The North York Moors Walking on Guernsey The Pennine Way Walking on Jersey The Reivers Way Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro The South West Coast Path Walking on Lanzarote and The Teesdale Way (Martin Collins; Fuerteventura updated by Paddy Dillon) Walking on La Palma The Wales Coast Path Walking on Madeira Trekking in Greenland – the Arctic Walking on Malta Circle Trail Walking on Tenerife Trekking in Mallorca JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Paddy Dillon 2019 CONTENTS First edition 2019 ISBN: 978 1 85284 908 5 Azores general location map ...... 8 Map of the Azores ...... 9 Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore Map key...... 10 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. INTRODUCTION ...... 13 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Location...... 13 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Geology...... 14 Landscape ...... 15 Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA. Discovery and history...... 16 NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Wildlife ...... 17 Protected areas...... 18 Updates to this guide Getting to the Azores...... 18 Getting around the Azores...... 19 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks Accommodation...... 20 as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any Currency ...... 20 updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www. Language...... 20 cicerone.co.uk/908/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also Food and drink...... 21 advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommoda- Weather...... 21 tion and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. Tourist information...... 22 We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between Emergencies...... 22 a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone. Walking in the Azores ...... 22 co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Maps ...... 22 Kendal, LA9 7RL. Waymarking and access...... 22 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and What to take...... 24 GPX files where available, register your book atwww.cicerone.co.uk . Using this guide...... 24

Notes on mapping EASTERN GROUP...... 25 Ilha de São Miguel...... 26 The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, databases Walk 1 Circuit of the Caldeira das Sete Cidades...... 30 and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the detailed check- Walk 2 Sete Cidades and Lagoa Verde...... 34 ing procedures that would generally be applied to a published map from an offi- Walk 3 João Bom to Candelária...... 37 cial mapping agency, although naturally we have reviewed them closely in the Walk 4 Capelas to Rabo de Peixe...... 42 light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide. Walk 5 Remédios and Janela do Inferno...... 46 The islands are densely forested in places, and there is extensive tree cover. Walk 6 Lagoa do Fogo from Água de Alto ...... 48 Nowhere is this mapped accurately, but we have reviewed it carefully and Walk 7 Caldeiras and Salto do Cabrito...... 52 amended our maps based on our knowledge from field visits and other sources, Walk 8 and Lagoa das Furnas...... 55 so the woodland shown is reasonably representative but not completely accurate. Walk 9 Pico do Ferro...... 58 This is considered more helpful than not including it at all. Note too that moun- Walk 10 Povoação to Ribeira Quente...... 61 tain streams in arid areas can appear rapidly during and after periods of rain. We Walk 11 Ribeira do Faial da Terra...... 63 have sought to include only permanent main streams rather than these ephemeral Walk 12 Lomba da Fazenda...... 66 streams. Walk 13 Pico da Vara...... 69 Walk 14 Achadinha and Salga...... 72 Walk 50 Calheta de Nesquim...... 205 Walk 15 Fenais da Ajuda...... 76 Walk 51 Lajes and Cabeço do Geraldo ...... 207 Walk 16 Ribeira Funda and ...... 78 Walk 52 São João to Silveira ...... 210 Ilha de Santa Maria...... 82 Walk 53 Ascent of Pico...... 213 Walk 17 GR1 Vila do Porto to Cardal...... 84 Ilha do Faial...... 216 Walk 18 GR1 Cardal to Norte ...... 88 Walk 54 GR1 Capelinhos to Capelo...... 218 Walk 19 GR1 Norte to Bananeiras...... 95 Walk 55 GR1 Capelo to Miradouro da Caldeira...... 221 Walk 20 GR1 Bananeiras to Vila do Porto ...... 99 Walk 56 GR1 Miradouro da Caldeira to Porto da Boca da Ribeira...... 225 Walk 21 Santa Bárbara and Norte ...... 104 Walk 57 Horta and Monte da Guia ...... 228 Walk 22 Pico Alto ...... 108 Walk 58 Morro de Castelo Branco...... 231 Walk 59 Praia do Norte and Fajã...... 233 CENTRAL GROUP...... 111 Walk 60 Levada walk to Alto do Chão...... 235 Ilha Terceira...... 112 Walk 61 Caldeira do Faial...... 238 Walk 23 Monte Brasil from Angra do Heroísmo...... 115 Walk 24 Serreta and Lagoinha...... 118 WESTERN GROUP...... 241 Walk 25 Gruta do Natal and Mistérios Negros...... 120 Ilha das Flores...... 242 Walk 26 Rocha do Chambre ...... 123 Walk 62 GR1 Santa Cruz to Ponta Delgada...... 244 Walk 27 Alagoa and Ponta do Mistério ...... 126 Walk 63 GR1 Ponta Delgada to Fajã Grande...... 251 Walk 28 Baldio and Biscoito da Fontainha...... 129 Walk 64 GR1 Fajã Grande to Lajedo...... 255 Walk 29 São Sebastião and Porto Judeu...... 131 Walk 65 Lagoas to Fajã Grande...... 259 Ilha Graciosa...... 134 Walk 66 Água Quente...... 262 Walk 30 GR1 Santa Cruz to Praia...... 136 Walk 67 Fajã de Lopo Vaz...... 264 Walk 31 GR1 Praia to Luz...... 139 Ilha do Corvo...... 266 Walk 32 GR1 Luz to Santa Cruz...... 142 Walk 68 Lagoa do Caldeirão...... 268 Walk 33 Caldeira and Furna do Enxofre...... 146 Walk 69 Cara do Índio...... 271 Ilha de São Jorge ...... 150 Walk 70 Farol da Carneira...... 274 Walk 34 GR1 Ponta do Topo to São Tomé ...... 153 Walk 35 GR1 São Tomé to Serra do Topo...... 156 Appendix A Route summary table ...... 277 Walk 36 GR1 Serra do Topo to Fajã dos Cubres...... 161 Appendix B Language notes and topographical glossary...... 281 Walk 37 Norte Pequeno and Fajã da Penedia...... 163 Appendix C Useful contacts...... 286 Walk 38 Pico do Pedro to Fajã do Ouvidor ...... 166 Walk 39 Santo António and Fajã de Além ...... 169 Walk 40 Farol dos Rosais and Pico da Velha ...... 171 Ilha do Pico...... 174 Walk 41 Gruta das Torres to Madalena...... 177 Walk 42 Fetais, Lajido and Santa Luzia ...... 180 Walk 43 Santana to Lajido...... 182 Walk 44 Lagoa do Capitão to São Roque do Pico...... 186 Walk 45 Caminho dos Burros...... 188 Walk 46 Caminho das Lagoas ...... 191 Walk 47 Prainha do Norte...... 196 Walk 48 Santo Amaro to Piedade...... 198 Walk 49 Calhau, Manhenha and Piedade ...... 202 Front cover: Lagoa do Caldeirão on the island of Corvo (Walk 68) Walking in the Azores Overview maps Paris Paris FRANCE FRANCE London London ALGERIA Madrid SPAIN SPAIN S ã o Miguel S ã o Miguel Santa Maria Santa Maria MOROCCO MOROCCO Marrakesh Marrakesh Porto Lisbon Lisbon PORTUGAL Western Sahara Western Sahara Madeira Madeira Terceira Terceira Flights Ferries S ã o S ã o JorgeJorge Canary Islands Canary Islands Pico Azores Graciosa Graciosa Azores Azores Faial Faial general location map general ATLANTIC OCEAN ATLANTIC km ATLANTIC OCEAN OCEAN ATLANTIC km 80 800 N St John’s St John’s N 400 Corvo 0 NEWFOUNDLAND NEWFOUNDLAND 0 Flores

8 9  Walking in the Azores

Symbols used on route maps

route Relief alternative route in metres

2200–2400 start point 2000–2200

finish point 1800–2000

1600–1800 alternative finish point 1400–1600

start/finish point 1200–1400 1000–1200 alternative start/finish point 800–1000

direction arrow 600–800 400–600 woodland 200–400

0–200 urban areas

tunnel SCALE: 1:50,000 peak 0 kilometres 0.5 1 0 miles 0.5 building

water feature

viewpoint

other feature

ferry

airport

Contour lines are drawn at 25m intervals and highlighted at 100m intervals. GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/908/GPX.

10 The waterfall of Salto do Prego (Walk 11) 11 Walking in the Azores

INTRODUCTION

The Azores are nine scenic and remark- the Azores cover in the middle of the ably interesting islands located in the Atlantic Ocean. Another way of looking middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. The at it: the nine islands of the Azores cover islands are the mere peaks of enormous one-third of the area of the seven Canary sub-sea volcanoes, and their highest Islands, and are spread over a greater peak is also Portugal’s highest mountain. area of the ocean. Despite their remoteness, they are easily The islands are divided geographi- accessible; and while there are no large- cally into three groups. The Eastern scale tourist resorts on the archipelago, Group contains the largest of the Azores, there are plenty of options for accom- São Miguel, and one of the smallest modation. Walkers will be delighted to islands, Santa Maria. They are so far hear that there is a splendid network of apart that most days it isn’t possible to signposted and waymarked trails that see one from the other. Nor is it possi- explore the landscape and scenic high- ble to see any of the other islands from lights of the islands, along with their either of these two, reinforcing how natural history and heritage features. All remote and far-flung the Azores are. On who visit the Azores yearn to return. the other hand, São Miguel has the best transport links of all the islands, so it is often used as a stepping stone for explo- LOCATION ration of the entire archipelago. To appreciate just how remote the The Central Group contains five Azores are, situated in the mid-Atlan- islands: Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, tic one-third of the distance between Pico and Faial. From the higher parts of Europe and Canada, it is best to refer to each island, on a clear day, it is usually a large globe of the world. The Azores possible to see the other four. However, appear as tiny dots, if they appear at all. the Eastern and Western Groups are Seeing them on a ‘real’ map, the land never in view. Three of the islands – São areas are small and the area of ocean Jorge, Pico and Faial – lie close together they occupy is immense. For this rea- and enjoy particularly good year-round son, many sketch maps show the islands ferry links. These three islands are collec- larger than they really are, and squash tively known as the ‘Triangulo’ islands; them together. It is best to be aware of anyone planning to stay on one of them their true scale at the outset. should bear in mind how easy it is to If you were to take a county the size visit the other two, and maybe consider of Derbyshire and split it into nine une- a more adventurous island-hopping tour. ven chunks, then arrange those chunks The Western Group contains just haphazardly through England between two small islands, Flores and Corvo, with Land’s End and Northumberland, Corvo being the smallest of all the Azores. that’s pretty much the same extent as These two islands are located on the

12 Fields and a lighthouse at Ponta de Albarnaz (Walk 63) 13 Walking in the Azores Landscape

North American Plate, unlike the other merged to form larger islands. Santa seven islands, which are on the African Maria is reckoned to be the oldest island and Eurasian Plates: see ‘Geology’ below. in the Azores, while the mighty moun- It is usually possible to see one island tain of Pico is relatively recent, and from the other, but the rest of the Azores even as late as 1957–58 a new volcano are never in view, emphasising again the erupted on Faial. Throughout history, remoteness of these islands. earthquakes have caused considerable damage around the Azores. On some of the islands, several volcanoes exhibit GEOLOGY perfect forms, having slopes leading The Azores sit in a very complex geolog- up to a circular caldeira, or crater. On ical zone close to the junctions of three other islands, such formations have been major continental plates – the African severely altered by sudden landslides and Plate, the North American Plate and the slow weathering, so that they are much Eurasian Plate. São Miguel sits on the less apparent. In Santa Maria, the sea- edge of the Eurasian Plate, while Terceira bed itself has been pushed up over time, and Graciosa straddle the junction of the resulting in a thick layer of fossiliferous Eurasian and African Plates. Santa Maria sediment being stranded high in the hills. is on the African Plate, along with São All nine islands of the Azores Jorge, Pico and Faial. Flores and Corvo are designated as a UNESCO Global are on the North American Plate. Geopark, comprising a network of ‘geo- An aerial view of intricate Azorean fields, farmland and villages The Azores are of volcanic origin. sites’ that are of international impor- Basaltic lava spilled from fractures far tance in terms of their geological inter- beneath the ocean, gradually building est, landscapes, cultural heritage and LANDSCAPE site on Santa Maria stripped away veg- up to become islands, some of which biodiversity (www.azoresgeopark.com). Anyone who has visited the relatively etation to form an area of astonishingly nearby islands of Madeira or the Canaries red earth. Most rocky areas have been finds the lush, verdant, green landscapes overwhelmed by creeping vegetation, of the Azores both startling and refresh- and even in the depths of winter there ing. Of course, the islands lie in a warm will be some species in flower. temperate region, and their position in From the point of view of a visiting the ocean ensures that there is little dif- walker, the landscape has more than its ference in temperature between summer fair share of hills, and even high moun- and winter. However, the sheer abun- tains, and the coast is always close to dance of vegetation can only be sus- hand, but almost everywhere is covered tained by plenty of rain. Don’t let that put by a lush blanket of vegetation. Rainy you off visiting. It rains from time to time, days will bring low cloud, but on sunny but seldom for long, and the moment the days only wisps of mist might play sun shines, the colours are intense. around on the heights. Explorations There are few completely bar- aren’t limited to the surface of the ren areas, although the eruption of islands, as there are incredibly interest- Capelinhos volcano on Faial in 1957– ing lava tubes open to the public, as Deep inside the lava chamber of Furna do Enxofre (Walk 33) 58 left the land covered in thick layers well as some truly amazing chambers of grey ash, and an old clay-working deep inside the craters of volcanoes.

14 15 Walking in the Azores Walk 1 – Circuit of the Caldeira das Sete Cidades

WALK 1 Circuit of the Caldeira das Sete Cidades

Start/finish Miradouro da Lomba do Vasco Distance 20km (12½ miles) Total ascent/descent 700m (2295ft) Time 6hr Terrain Mostly easy walking along roads and dirt roads over partially forested mountains, although some slopes can be steep Refreshments None Transport Buses operate along Lomba do Vasco, linking Várzea and Sete Cidades Waymarks PR3 SMI and PR4 SMI Lagoa Azul in the enormous caldeira of Sete Cidades

There are a few ‘surprise’ views of the remarkably attrac- This is a long walk, but it isn’t too difficult. Most of it is along roads and dirt roads tive Lagoa Azul, which fills the Sete Cidadescaldeira . These encircling an enormous caldeira containing two large lakes. There is bus access occur whenever the dirt road runs along the high rim of the There is no way and most of the route is signposted and waymarked. A high-speed car rally takes caldeira, and are lost when the road moves away from the down to the right, place here annually in March or April (www.azoresrallye.com), so the walk is rim. The road is like a roller coaster, rising and falling. It is where the slopes are best avoided at this time. always clear and obvious, and you simply avoid every track excessively steep and dropping to the left.4 densely vegetated. After passing the hill of Grota da Cova, crowned by a Cars can be parked at the Miradouro da Lomba do Vasco, trig point at 522m (1713ft), a tarmac road rises to join the dirt If arriving by bus, give around 430m (1410ft), at the walk start.3Walk down road at the picnic viewpoint of Miradouro das Cumeeiras. a clear signal in good the road towards the village of Sete Cidades, which is out Walk straight ahead and the dirt road continues as a roller time to the driver. of sight. The steep slopes of Seara rise on the left, clad in coaster, later passing a trig point on Lomba do Pico, at 611m heather trees, while grassy fields and areas of cedar forest lie (2005ft). An easy, level stretch of the road features fine views below. When the road bends right, turn left to follow a dirt over the caldeira. Another ascent passes a water trough and A right turn, which road, noting the first of many red and yellow paint flashes trig point on Remédios, at 661m (2169ft). you don’t follow, that mark the route. A signpost is reached, pointing back The dirt road drops a little then climbs past stands of is signposted for along the road as the PR3 SMI to Vista do Rei, and ahead as cedar and steep grassy slopes. Lagoa Azul can be seen at Sete Cidades. the PR4 SMI for Mata do Canário. intervals, but it passes from view for a while as you climb The dirt road runs level around 400m (1310ft). Avoid up a steep, bendy section of the road. During this ascent, tracks leading left and right, simply walking ahead and climb- turn right at a junction; then, at a higher junction, consider ing through a cedar forest as marked. Eventually, a junction of turning right for a short walk to a trig point on Pico da Cruz, dirt roads is reached beside a big, crumbling bluff. Turn right at 833m (2733ft). This isn’t quite the highest point on the cal- twice in quick succession as marked, avoiding Casa Velha, deira rim; the dirt road continues to a slightly higher point climbing steeply from the forest above sloping grassy fields. crowned with a securely walled radio navigation station.

30 31 Walking in the Azores PicoPico do Mafrado Mafra Walk 1 – Circuit of the Caldeira das Sete Cidades 320m320m Drop steeply on a concrete road from the NN station then continue on a dirt road towards a forest. Parts of the forest have been clear- felled, and a stream alongside has its water collected at intervals in huts. Keep right at a GrotaGrota da Cova da Cova 0 0 1 1 CasaCasa Velha Velha km km bend in a tarmac road, but look to the left to spot a curious structure – an old aqueduct, 522m522m the Muro das Nove Janelas (Wall of Nine MiradouroMiradouro da da Windows), which carries water over a double LombaLomba do Vasco do Vasco row of arches. The road follows the aqueduct uphill, then you can either turn right at a road junc- tion, or, if you spot it, turnVárzea rightVárzea before the road 611m611mLombaLomba do Picodo Pico junction and short-cut along a track to the next LagoaLagoa Azul Azul road; the short-cut reaches the road at a small car park where there is an information board 661m661mRemédiosRemédios about the PR4 SMI, which you have been fol- If you can spare a few lowing so far. Waymarks aren’t required to fol- SeteSete minutes, a couple of low the road gently uphill, and signposts soon CidadesCidades paths are signposted point right for Lagoa do Canário, a small lake to the lake shore. surrounded by dense forest. If not visiting the lake, stay on the road, PicoPico which later commences a bendy descent. do Faialdo Faial551m551m Views are limited, but after passing Fonte da Serra, the caldeira reappears, with Lagoa Verde looking more prominent than Lagoa Azul. The road cuts across the steep slopes LagoaLagoa de de LagoaLagoa Verde Verde SantiagoSantiago of Criacão, passes a junction then cuts across 833m833mPicoPico da Cruz da Cruz the slopes of Casal. A large, derelict build- ing is seen just as the road reaches a popular LagoaLagoa viewpoint at Vista do Rei. RasaRasa

In 1901, King Carlos and Queen Amélie VistaVista do Reido Rei of Portugal were encouraged to enjoy this CriacCriacão ão CasalCasal LagoaLagoa do do view, which was subsequently named FonteFonte CanáCanrio ário Vista do Rei in their honour. The green- da SerraSarrada SerraSarra tinged Lagoa Verde leads the eye beyond MuroMuro das das a stone bridge to the blue waters of Lagoa NoveNove Janelas Janelas Azul, while white houses in the village of Sete Cidades are spread to one side. The steep, forested walls of the caldeira enclose everything.

32 33 Walking in the Azores Walk 2 – Sete Cidades and Lagoa Verde

Leave the main road and follow a short tarmac road Lagoa Azul that quickly becomes a dirt road. A notice gives information Sete Cidades about the PR3 SMI trail. At a junction soon afterwards, keep A sharp right turn straight ahead.The dirt road rises, and a gate on the left offers a chance to gives access to a prominent communication mast. However, N Ponte dos link with Walk 2. keep straight ahead through forest and the dirt road eventu- Regos ally emerges on an open crest, with views right to the cal- deira and left towards the coast. 0 1 The road undulates gently along the crest, but later km drops into forest, where a concrete road rises left to serve Lagoa de another prominent communication mast on Pico do Faial. Santiago If catching a bus, be Keep to the dirt road, rising and falling, but generally falling, Lagoa Verde on time, and give losing views of the lake. Avoid other tracks dropping steeply the driver a clear from the crest, and eventually the road will be reached at Lagoa signal to stop. 430m (1410ft) on Miradouro da Lomba do Vasco. Rasa Vista do Rei WALK 2 Casal Sete Cidades and Lagoa Verde

Arriving by bus, get off either at a stop in the village of Sete In bad weather, any Cidades or at the final stop, which is just outside the village lake-shore walks that Start/finish Sete Cidades on Rua do Queiro; either way, note where the bus stops are you might notice offer Distance 10km (6¼ miles) located for later in the day. Take the road running straight easy, level, there- Total ascent/descent 350m (1150ft) ahead (Rua dos Xailes Negro), pass Casa Grande and soon fol- and-back alternatives, Time 3hr 30min low a broad, stone-paved road across the seven-arched Ponte but all can flood after Terrain Generally easy roads and tracks, with more rugged paths dos Regos, which separates Lagoa Azul from Lagoa Verde.4 prolonged rain. and some steep ascents and descents, often on forested Go straight ahead uphill from a road junction, sign- slopes posted for Vista do Rei. Climb a forested slope where many Refreshments Café-bars in Sete Cidades tall cedars have been felled, but many remain standing. The Transport Buses serve Sete Cidades daily from Ponta Delgada concrete road is steep and bendy. Turn left onto a path that leads up through the picnic site of Merendário da Volta do Salto, short-cutting a road bend. Climb past another picnic site, Merendário da Volta de Madeira, and keep climbing. Lagoa Azul, the blue lake, and Lagoa Verde, the green lake, have lake-shore Eventually, a clear track heads right from a tight road bend. roads, but they all peter out without it being possible to make circular walks. Before taking it, go a little further up the road to a viewpoint They could be used as bad weather alternatives, although they can also flood. over the deep, forested crater lake of Lagoa de Santiago. The following walk makes a circuit around Lagoa Verde by keeping high and Double back down the road and follow the track away following tracks across steep, forested slopes. from the bend. It climbs steeply and ruggedly, with clear- felled areas and tall cedars alongside, and only occasional lake views at certain gaps in the forest. The track levels off

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