loungemy favourite place

Toronto

Alice Rocks Cooper, Rock Legend

64 OCTOBER | 2006 | up-magazine.com HAS been freaking people out for five decades now, and he doesn’t seem to be slowing down. He’s made 24 studio (the latest: 2005’s ) and is planning another release next year. He’s also released three concert DVDs this year alone. His radio show, Nights With Alice Cooper, airs five nights a week in almost 100 U.S. cities, as well as Canada, Australia and the U.K. His Solid Rock Foundation is raising funds to build a US$3-million teen activity centre on a Christian college campus in West Phoenix. He plays golf like crazy, at home in Arizona and pretty much everywhere he tours—which includes Niagara Falls, Cornwall, Kingston and Montréal this month, on the heels of supporting the Rolling Stones in Halifax in September.

But ask the godfather of where he likes to soak up his surroundings instead of being the centre of attention and he’ll point you to his early stomping grounds—a place where chickens are wary upon his arrival and, apparently, where future sci-fi action stars are raised on metal.

Toronto and I always got along really well. It’s always been one of my favourite places in the world. I kind came the Hawaiian grandmother and of look at Toronto the same way I look this black-haired kid named ‘Kee.’ at hometown : that audience I used to take him to the studio is a demanding audience; they don’t every day. We’d go over there and let you get away with walking through they had a dog and a cat and he’d love “a show. You have to really work. I to go and play, and I’d get him some always pump it up an extra notch for ice cream. We’d go and record and Toronto and Detroit. that was just sort of his playground. Bob Ezra, my producer, is from I didn’t realize it was Keanu Reeves there. I did a couple of albums until years later. He turned out fine. there… just a lot of great memories Yorkville was this tough area about Toronto. [then]; it wasn’t this sorta yuppie The House of Lords—everybody area that it is now. If you were gonna would get their hair done at House go outside at night, certain streets of Lords. And then there’s another were tough streets, certain bars had place that did these great boots. Now all bikes outside and they were all “In Yorkville… I I went in there three Angels or whatever the local gang was months ago… some gonna be. But we knew ’em all, you’d used to babysit this of the boots are still tip your hat and say, ‘Hey, how’s it there from 1974, ’75. going?’ We made sure that they got kid named Keanu” Now they’re more tickets to shows and records so that expensive ’cause they’re retro. they wouldn’t bother us. Out of the Wild West come A place called Nimbus Nine—that The first time I ever missed a stories of what it takes to do was our studio in Yorkville. Right show was in Toronto, when I had an there across the street is where I used asthma attack and there was a big riot business in the West… to live in an old Victorian house for at the CNE. That was about ’78 [or] about three months at a time. And ’79. I have bronchial asthma [and] it I used to babysit this kid named just so happened that that day, it was Keanu… Reeves. When he was about the biggest pollen count that Toronto five or six years old. It just so hap- had ever had. I just could not get my pened that his grandma lived across breath, and I couldn’t do the show. the street and he lived there. And And they tore that place to pieces. It rather than stay in a hotel, I liked was the front page of the paper the staying up in the top bedroom in this next day; they just destroyed all the old Victorian house, but along with it chairs. And then they had buttons

that said ‘Alice: You’re A Riot.’ www.calgaryinc.ca —as told to Eric Rumble www.calgaryinc.ca Getty Images ” westjet.com | OCTOBER | 2006 65 By/par Eric Rumble One Great City! Photos by/par Stephen Wilde ’

Une ville fantast- ique ! Le Winnipeg des Weakerthans

44 AUGUST/2006 • up-magazine.com By/par Eric Rumble Photos by/par Stephen Wilde

LEFT TO RIGHT: Samson gets grilled at Falafel Place. Studio stacks. What to see, hear and eat, Ce qu’il faut voir, écouter et in the Exchange. courtesy of the band that’s manger, d’après le groupe qui a Samson producing The Parkas. written more songs about the écrit plus de chansons que per- GAUCHE à DROITE : Samson au Falafel Place. town than anyone else… sonne sur cette ville… même Haut-parleur au studio. including the one with “I hate celle au refrain entraînant « I hate Jason Tait dans Exchange. Winnipeg » (Je déteste Winnipeg) John K. Samson et les Parkas. Winnipeg” as a catchy chorus Most underappreci- ith Canadian indie rock hogging global critical aintenant que le rock canadien de style Indie connaît ated example of civic acclaim, few bands reaping the accolades have un succès mondial, peu de groupes restent aussi an- pride: “That you can W remained as grounded—and as intimately tied to M crés et intimement liés à leurs origines que les Wea- always count on a their origins—as The Weakerthans. Formed a decade ago in kerthans. Les trois premiers disques de ce groupe formé neighbour to boost Winnipeg, , the band’s first three records are il y a 10 ans à Winnipeg, au Manitoba, sont imprégnés your car or push you steeped in tales of their storied city’s essential character: du caractère essentiel des nombreux contes et légendes out of a snowbank,” gritty beauty, raw hope and desperation, profound cynicism. de leur ville : beauté courageuse, désespoir inextricable et says Stephen Carroll. For The Weakerthans’ three homegrown members cynisme profond. (founder and front man John K. Samson, guitarist Ste- Pour les trois natifs, membres des Weakerthans, (John K. Meilleur exemple de phen Carroll and drummer Jason Tait—their bassist is Samson, fondateur et principal du groupe, Stephen Carroll, fierté communautaire Torontonian Greg Smith), Winnipeg holds riches that you guitariste, Jason Tait, batteur et Greg Smith, bassiste de To- la moins reconnue : can’t find elsewhere, whether touring Europe or trawling ronto), Winnipeg contient des trésors que l’on ne trouve nulle « on peut toujours Canada’s more lauded metropolises. In many cases the part ailleurs, que ce soit en Europe ou dans les métropoles compter sur un voisin city’s treasures are tangible, even obvious: relic architec- plus glorifiées du Canada. Dans de nombreux cas, ces trésors pour ranimer sa voi- ture and sprawling foliage, the spoils of cramped multi- sont tangibles, même évidents : vestiges architecturaux et ture ou la tirer d’une culturalism and a humble, almost accidental celebration frondaison tentaculaire, ou délices du multiculturalisme étri- congère. », ajoute of all things kitsch. But beneath the surface, Winnipeg’s qué et de la célébration modeste et presque fortuite de tout ce Stephen Carroll. draw hinges on taking the good with the bad. qui est kitsch. Mais en profondeur, l’attraction de Winnipeg “There’s a real rhythm to this place that I guess est de pouvoir faire aussi bien avec le mauvais que le bon. we’re used to. It seems much calmer than other places,” « La ville a un rythme propre auquel nous sommes habi- says Samson. “It’s not like anyone can go anywhere, tués, et semble beaucoup plus calme qu’ailleurs », dit Sam- we’re all stuck here. The isolation kind of cements the son. « Personne ne peut aller nulle part; on est coincés là. community.” L’isolation cimente en quelque sorte la communauté ». Before heading into the studio this fall to record their Avant de se rendre au studio cet automne pour enregis- fourth , up! enlisted The Weakerthans to talk about trer leur quatrième album, up! a demandé aux Weakerthans their hometown with different instruments in hand— de nous parler de leur ville à l’aide d’instruments très dif- namely, their tour guide caps. férents, leurs casquettes de guide touristique.

westjet.com • AUGUST/2006 45 One Great Brekkie! Petit déjeuner copieux ! Casual, wallet-friendly, classic Winnipeg eateries to keep Restaurants classiques de Winnipeg, simples et bon you fuelled during daylight hours marché, où vous pourrez faire le plein pour la journée

LEFT TO RIGHT: VEGETARIAN-FRIENDLY FEAST FESTIN VÉGÉTARIEN Carroll, Samson and Tait at C Kelekis. Falafel Place (1670 Corydon Avenue; 204-489-5811) Falafel Place (1670, avenue Corydon; 204-489-5811) C Kelekis’ bread and butter. John K. Samson: “I only come here with people from out John K. Samson : « Je ne viens ici qu’avec des gens qui ne Local colour at Falafel Place. of town, but that’s often… it’s really good, it’s really cheap. sont pas de Winnipeg, mais souvent… c’est vraiment bon An inner-city picnic at V.J.’s. There’s plenty of vegetarian on the menu... and the meat et pas cher. Il y a des tas de plats végétariens… et les ama- Carroll and Samson, post falafel feast. lovers can get along here, too.” teurs de viande y trouvent aussi leur compte. » Stephen Carroll: “It’s famous for its atmosphere that’s Stephen Carroll : « C’est célèbre pour l’atmosphère créée GAUCHE à DROITE : created by the owner, Ami, who’s very friendly. He treats par Ami, le propriétaire, qui est très sympa. Il traite chacun Carroll, Samson et chez C Kelekis. everybody like he knows them and he isn’t afraid to kick comme s’il le connaissait et n’a pas peur de renvoyer les La vie de tous les jours chez C Kelekis. people out if it gets busy… [Winnipeg] Free Press writers gens si c’est trop plein… Les rédacteurs du Winnipeg Free Couleur locale au Falafel Place. refer to it as a bit of a New York deli atmosphere… It’s the Press disent qu’il s’y dégage l’atmosphère d’un « Deli » de Pique-nique au cœur de ville chez V.J. hangover cure joint.” New York… C’est là qu’on soigne sa gueule de bois. » Carroll et Samson, après les falafels. ORANGE OVERLOAD SATURATION D’ORANGE The essential Winnipeg C Kelekis (1100 Main Street; 204-582-1786) C Kelekis (1100, rue Principale; 204-582-1786) souvenir: “If you Jason Tait: “I grew up in almost rural Manitoba… so com- Jason Tait : « J’ai grandi presque dans la campagne mani- can score an original ing downtown was a treat in itself, and then coming here tobaine… déjà venir au centre-ville c’était super, et alors Winnipeg Jets jersey,” was an extra bonus. My parents loved the fries.” venir ici, encore mieux. Mes parents adoraient les frites. » says Jason Tait, “you’re the king.” TIME-HONOURED TRAILER GRILL TRADITIONNEL GRILL SUR REMORQUE V.J.’s Drive-In (170 Main Street; 204-943-2655) V.J.’s Drive-In (170, rue Principale; 204-943-2655) Le souvenir à ramener JT: “The chili… all the burgers have this chili. I was there JT : « Le chili… il y a du chili sur tous les hamburgers. J’y de Winnipeg : « Si vous yesterday. Actually, I got off the plane and I got in a cab and étais encore hier. D’ailleurs, j’ai débarqué de l’avion et suis pouvez dénicher un I went to V.J.’s right away… my girlfriend and I both live in monté dans un taxi pour aller directement chez V.J.’s… ma maillot des Winnipeg Toronto, so when we come back it’s always this weird com- copine et moi vivons à Toronto, alors, quand on revient à Jets », affirme Jason Tait, petition of how many hamburgers we can eat while we’re Winnipeg, c’est à celui qui mangera le plus de hamburgers. « vous êtes le roi ». in Winnipeg. It usually averages out to one a day.” En moyenne un par jour. »

46 AUGUST/2006 • up-magazine.com Stephen Carroll’s L’excursion Louis Riel par LEFT TO RIGHT: Louis Riel Tour Stephen Carroll The legendary Riel’s resting place. The Weakerthans’ guitar ace turns history buff and L’as de la guitare des Weakerthans se fait historien pour A weathered tombstone nearby. divulges his essential spots for revelling in the lore of nous révéler les coins essentiels qui vous plongeront dans The Cathedrale St. Boniface façade. Canada’s infamous Métis revolutionary les us et coutumes du fameux révolutionnaire métis GAUCHE à DROITE : RIEL HOUSE (330 River Road; 204-257-1783) LA MAISON-RIEL (330, route de la rivière; 204-257-1783) Le lieu de repos du légendaire Riel. “You can see where the rebellion began when Riel and « C’est là que la rébellion commença lorsque Riel et un Ancienne pierre tombale. a group of Métis famously confronted English surveyors. groupe de Métis se sont confrontés aux arpenteurs anglais, Façade de la cathédrale de Saint- This started a chain of events that eventually led to Mani- ce qui a enchaîné des événements qui finalement ont abouti Boniface. toba becoming a province.” à la création du Manitoba. » Best example of over- bearing civic pride: “The UPPER FORT GARY (1/3 block south of Broadway, between UPPER FORT GARRY (1/3 de pâté de maison au sud de bears,” says Stephen Fort Street and Main Street) Broadway, entre la rue du Fort et la rue Principale) Carroll. “...’cause “The remnants of the fort that Riel and the Métis took « Les vestiges du fort que Riel et les Métis conquirent, ce qui every other city had the over, thrusting their issues to a national stage. To liberate eut pour effet de propulser leurs problèmes à l’échelle natio- moose, the cows; and the fort, the Wolseley expedition was sent out—at the time nale. Pour libérer ce fort, on envoya l’expédition Wolseley et in classic Winnipeg one of the largest mass migrations of persons in Canadian ce, à l’époque des plus grandes migrations de l’histoire du [style], five years after history. When they arrived, the Métis had abandoned the Canada. Lorsqu’ils arrivèrent, les Métis avaient abandonné the fact, Winnipeg goes fort and Riel had gone into exile in the U.S.” le fort et Riel s’était exilé aux États-unis. » ‘Oh, those people had a good idea. We should GREY NUN’S MUSEUM (151, rue Despins; 204-237-8941) MUSÉE DES SOEURS GRISES (151, rue Despins; do that.’” “Artifacts from Riel’s life, as well as interesting objects 204-237-8941) from the Battle of Batoche—a struggle that Riel came « Des artéfacts de la vie de Louis Riel, ainsi que des objets in- Meilleur exemple de back to Canada to assist in. Haunted by personal de- téressants de la Bataille de Batoche. Riel était revenu au Ca- fierté communautaire mons and bad luck, Riel was captured during the failed nada pour aider à ce conflit. Hanté par des démons person- outrancière : « Les ours Batoche effort. Here you can get a feel for the city during nels et la mauvaise chance, Riel fut capturé pendant la dé- », dit Stephen Carroll. « those times, and for what the rebellion meant for the faite de Batoche. Ici, on peut imaginer la ville à cette époque … parce que les autres Métis here.” et ce que la rébellion signifiait pour les Métis de la région. » villes ont eu les orignaux, les vaches, alors cinq ans CATHÉDRALE ST. BONIFACE (190, avenue de la Cathé- CATHÉDRALE SAINT-BONIFACE (190, avenue de la Cathé- plus tard, dans le style drale; 204-233-7304) drale; 204-233-7304) propre à Winnipeg, on “After being hung in Regina for treason, Riel’s body was « Après avoir été pendu pour trahison à Regina, le corps s’est dit que les autres brought back to Winnipeg and put to rest here. His funeral de Riel a été ramené à Winnipeg et enterré ici. La proces- avaient eu une brillante procession stretched all the way back to St. Vital. At night, sion de ses funérailles remontait jusqu’à St. Vital. La nuit, idée et qu’on devrait the atmosphere of the cathedral’s ruins is beautiful.” l’atmosphère des ruines de la cathédrale est magnifique. » aussi le faire ».

westjet.com • AUGUST/2006 47 Trees Still Breathing Des arbres qui respirent encore John K. Samson’s local brooding grounds Où John K. Samson va rêver…

The Assiniboine Forest covers nearly 700 acres in Winni- La forêt Assiniboine couvre presque 700 acres du sud-ouest peg’s southwest corner. “It’s this beautiful preserve of natu- de Winnipeg. « C’est une belle forêt naturelle préservée. ral forest; the biggest city forest in Canada, I think,” says Je pense que c’est la plus grande forêt dans une ville cana- LEFT TO RIGHT: Samson. “And no one goes there. I go there all the time.” dienne », explique Samson. « Et personne n’y va; moi, j’y vais Engrossed in a book of The sweet spot… “is through the trail that goes through tout le temps. » Hopper paintings. it and then turns around; at the peak of the trail there’s a Le plus beau « c’est de suivre le chemin qui la traverse; Vinyl hunting at Into The Music. bench there overlooking the marsh. It’s a great place for au bout, il y a un banc qui domine le marais. C’est un superbe A seat near the Assiniboine’s birding… It’s one of my favourite spots in the city, actually.” endroit pour observer les oiseaux… c’est d’ailleurs un de mes aspens and elms… makes The Weakerthans’ singer/songwriter also spends a cou- coins préférés de la ville. » Samson downright pensive. ple of afternoons a week at the recently completed Millen- Le chanteur compositeur des Weakerthans passe aussi nium Library (251 Donald Street; 204-986-6450). “You quelques après-midi par semaine à la Bibliothèque du GAUCHE à DROITE : can be alone and with people at the same time. It’s really millénaire juste terminée (251, rue Donald; 204-986- Enfoui dans un livre de peintures well designed that way. You feel private, but part of the 6450). « On y est seul et en même temps avec d’autres. de Hopper. city somehow.” C’est vraiment bien conçu. C’est intime tout en faisant À la recherche du disque perdu. partie de la ville. » Les arbres d’Assiniboine… Sonic Boon pour mieux réfléchir. Where are the best places to shop for music in Winnipeg? Une bénédiction musicale Quels sont les meilleurs magasins de musique à Winnipeg ? Most likely place JKS: “Music Trader (97 Osborne Street; 204-475-0077) and to find a Burton Into The Music (245 McDermot Avenue; 204-287-8279). JKS : Music Trader (97, rue Osborne; 204-475-0077) et Into Cummings-esque Both the appeals are the people who run them… I think the Music (245, avenue McDermot; 204-287-8279). ‘stache in Winnipeg: what I look for in a record store is the same thing I look for « Ce sont les gens qui font la richesse du magasin… je “At Tubby’s Pizza in a bookstore: a group of people’s specific tastes. That’s pense que j’y recherche la même chose que dans une librai- (204-284-5472), and kind of the opposite of what the trend is in record stores, rie : le goût particulier d’un groupe de gens. Ici, c’est la ten- it’d probably be on which is to have every record in the world in them—Chap- dance contraire des magasins de disques qui vendent tous Burton Cummings ters and HMVs and stuff. I like a store that reflects the taste les disques du monde, comme à Chapters et HMV. J’aime himself,” says Tait. of who works there and the owners, and it’s kind of a cre- les magasins qui reflètent les goûts de leur propriétaire; ative act.” c’est une sorte de créativité. » Endroit où l’on “I think Into The Music is probably more of a collectors’ « Je trouve que Into the Music s’adresse davantage aux trouvera le plus store… that’s where you would go for records from the ’60s collectionneurs… c’est là qu’on va y chercher des disques facilement une and ’70s and ’80s—things that were hard to find…” des années 60, 70 et 80, des trucs difficiles à trouver. » moustache à la SC: “Vinyl!” SC : « Des disques en vinyle ! » Burton Cummings JKS: “…and vinyl. And the owner there, Greg Tun, has been JKS : « … et encore du vinyle. Et Greg Tun, le propriétaire, à Winnipeg : running it for years and years and is really knowledgeable. y est depuis des années et s’y connaît vraiment bien. Pour « À Tubby’s Pizza And for new releases I would go to Music Trader…” les nouveaux disques, j’irais plutôt à Music Trader… » (204-284-5472) et SC: “…Underground, interesting, relevant, stuff you’ve nev- SC : « … marginal, intéressant, pertinent, des trucs dont on elle sera certainement er heard of...” n’a jamais entendu parler… » arborée par Burton JKS: “…yeah.” JKS : « Ouais. » Cummings lui- SC: “Both those stores are important to us because they are SC : « Ces deux magasins sont importants pour nous car ils même », ajoute Tait. actually part of the music community.” font vraiment partie de la communauté musicale. »

48 AUGUST/2006 • up-magazine.com Forks Out Coup de fourchette Where The Weakerthans would take you out to dinner, if it Où les Weakerthans vous amèneraient dîner, si seulement il weren’t for all those damn downloaders n’y avait pas tous ces gens qui téléchargent leur musique

GREAT LAND-LOCKED SUSHI DÉLICIEUX SUSHI LOIN DE LA CÔTE Wasabi At Home (99 Osborne Street; 204-475-1828) Wasabi At Home (99, rue Osborne; 204-475-1828) SC: “Feel like you are the coolest, and eat great food—with SC : « On s’y sent super branché et on y mange bien veggie options. All delivered without any of the attitude that (avec des légumes en option). Le tout servi sans les LEFT TO RIGHT: you would think you would get at this little sushi joint with grands airs auxquels on pourrait s’attendre dans ce petit Pre-pig-out in Osborne Village. some of the best interior décor this side of the Big Smoke.” restaurant de sushi, l’un des plus joliment décorés au-delà Wasabi’s minimalist chic. de Toronto. » Brick chic from another era. VINTAGE STEAKHOUSE A neon oasis under the big prairie sky. Rae & Jerry’s Steak House (1405 Portage Avenue; 204-783-6155) STEAKHOUSE DE CRU Cocktails and chairs that will make SC: “The best lounge in North America and perhaps the Rae & Jerry’s Steak House (1405, avenue Portage; 204-783-6155) you blush. world. It has been meticulously upkept and has remained SC : « Le meilleur bar salon d’Amérique du Nord et peut- true to its ’50s ideals in a way that I don’t think has been être du monde. Il a été minutieusement conservé et est GAUCHE à DROITE : maintained in any other establishment. It has quiet, ambient resté fidèle à l’idéal des années 1950 comme aucun autre. Avant de passer à table au lighting, soothing red tones, drop-panel wood ceilings, and Calme, éclairage d’ambiance, des tons de rouge apaisant, Osborne Village. a painting of a young boy hitching up his motorboat to his des plafonds en bois à goussets, et la peinture d’un jeune Chic minimaliste du Wasabi. 1950s coup…” garçon attachant son bateau à moteur à son coupé des Chic de la brique d’une autre époque. JT: “You get the feeling that you can look over and see Joe années 1950… » Oasis néon sous le ciel des Prairies. Pesci—circa Casino—sitting at the bar next to you.” JT : « On a l’impression qu’en se retournant, on va voir Joe Cocktails et chaises de quoi faire rougir. SC: “I love places in our city that are like this that are lost in Pesci, l’époque de Casino, assis au bar à côté de nous. » time. It makes you feel like you don’t know what era you’re SC : « J’adore ces coins qui sont perdus dans le temps. On Necessary Winnipeg living in… and that’s, somehow, a relief. And fun… that’s ne sait plus à quelle époque on vit… et c’est en quelque attire: “A shirt with entertainment.” sorte, comme un soulagement. Et puis, c’est amusant. » sleeves,” says Jason JT: “And [they have] really good steaks…” JT : « Et on y sert de très bons steaks… » Tait. “It’s going to be cold in winter, and in EXCELLENT INDIAN BUFFET EXCELLENT BUFFET INDIEN the summer, there’ll East India Company Pub & Eatery (349 York Avenue; East India Company Pub & Eatery (349, avenue York; be mosquitoes.” 204-947-3097) 204-947-3097) SC: “Almost all my birthday dinners have been here. Amaz- SC : « Presque tous mes dîners d’anniversaire se passent Tenue nécessaire à ing Indian food, some of the best I have ever had. The smells là. De la cuisine indienne fabuleuse, la meilleure que j’ai Winnipeg : « Une that greet you at the door are enough to make you weak in goûtée. Les bonnes odeurs qui vous accueillent à la porte chemise à manches the knees.” suffisent à vous conquérir. » longues », affirme Jason Tait. « Il fait froid en SWEET TOOTH TAMER POUR AMATEURS DE DOUCEURS hiver et en été, il y a Nucci’s Gelati (643 Corydon Avenue; 204-475-8765) Nucci’s Gelati (643, avenue Corydon; 204-475-8765) des moustiques. » SC: “I go for the gelati once a week, it’s right by my neigh- SC : « J’y vais une fois par semaine, c’est tout près de bourhood…” chez moi… » JKS: “It’s an institution.” JKS : « C’est une véritable institution. » SC: “People drive from all over the place to grab some gelati SC : « Les gens viennent de partout pour manger des glaces and walk up and down Corydon, checking out the bars.” et arpenter l’avenue Corydon, faire la tournée des bars. »

westjet.com • AUGUST/2006 49 LEFT TO RIGHT: Portable music, before the iPod. No Hand-Me-Down Blues Pas de Blues d’occasion Bargain hunting, old-man style. Two essential treasure troves for recycled riches in the Deux trésors incontournables pour richesses recyclées dans Exchange District le quartier de la Bourse More second-hand shopping ops. Exchange District fashions. RETIRED STYLE STYLE RETRAITÉ Talk about a cold shoulder. Goodwill Industries (70 Princess Street; 204-943-6435) Goodwill Industries (70, rue Princesse; 204-943-6435) JT: “If you’re into the ‘old man’ style—cardigans and JT : « Si vous aimez les trucs du genre cardigans « pépère GAUCHE à DROITE : whatnot—this is a good place to find it. A lot of ’70s », vous êtes au bon endroit. Beaucoup de sculptures en Musique portative, avant l’ère iPod. copper sculptures, a lot of shag carpets, area rugs, tons cuivre des années 1970, des tapis à poils longs, de petits Pour les amateurs du style « pépère ». of glasses… This is one of the largest, oldest thrift stores tapis, et des tas de verres… C’est l’un des plus vastes et Encore des magasins d’occasions. in Winnipeg.” plus vieux magasins d’occasions de Winnipeg. » Les chapeaux du quartier Exchange. Attention, se tenir à l’écart. BYGONE ALLURE ALLURE RÉVOLUE Hooper's Bazaar (217 McDermot Avenue; 204-946-1881) Hooper's Bazaar (217, avenue McDermot; 204-946-1881) JT: “This is the equivalent of 10 years of thrift store shop- JT : « C’est comme dix ans d’aubaines dénichées dans ping in one shop, so you pay a bit more, but there’s great des magasins d’occasions réunies sous un même toit. On pieces in this store… this is a good example of what’s in paie un peu plus, mais on y trouve des trucs supers… Un the city, lying around in garages and old houses. And, you éventail de ce qui traîne dans les garages et les vieilles know, Winnipeg’s not the most wealthy city, but there are maisons de la ville. Vous savez, Winnipeg n’est pas la a few people who had money and this is an example of ville la plus riche, mais certaines personnes avaient de that—really high-quality furniture… I always assume it l’argent et des meubles de grande qualité… je pense tou- was a hockey player’s.” jours que cela appartenait à des joueurs de hockey. »

50 AUGUST/2006 • up-magazine.com The Weakerthans’ Winnipeg Where to find the band’s favourite places, plus a few traces of homegrown inspiration Le Winnipeg des Weakerthans Où trouver les endroits favoris du groupe plus quelques traces d’inspiration

The Wellington, now-defunct site of the Weakerthans’ first gig, and the first live venue that John K. Samson and Stephen Carroll played together (at age 17). Le Wellington, maintenant fer- Kelvin High School, where mé où les Weakerthans se sont John K. Samson and Steven produits pour la première fois lorsque Carroll met and formed their first John K. Samson et Stephen Carroll ont band, Toothpick Hercules. joué ensemble à l’âge de 17 ans. Private Ear Recording Studios, L’école secondaire Kelvin, où John K. where Fallow (1997) and Left Samson et Steven Carroll se sont and Leaving (2000) were both re- rencontrés et ont formé leur pre- corded—in a warehouse shared with mier groupe, Toothpick Hercules. ’s Royal Art Lodge. Private Ear Recording Studios, studio où Fallow (1997) et (2000) ont été enreg- istrées dans un entrepôt partagé avec le Royal Art Lodge de Marcel Dzama.

‘For Girlie Drinks and Parlour Games’ Winnipeg Behind the Lyrics The Weakerthans’ preferred watering holes prove there’s more to Lyrics by John K. Samson from “One Lyrics by John K. Samson from “Wel- the ’Peg’s nightlife than alcohol and irony—even if you’ll inevitably Great City!” (, 2003), lington’s Wednesdays” (Fallow, 1997): find both in the city’s cozy bars and character-soaked lounges in reference to the golden statue atop the And every night they play the same Best live punk/rock/pop venue: Best place to get a glass of wine: provincial legislature building: Up above song / to the same offbeat believers / Cavern (112 Osborne Street; 204-284-7201) Fude (99 Osborne Street; 204-453-3724) us all / leaning into sky / our golden and everyone is singing along / wear- Best live folk/country venue: Best place to mellow out: “Any of business boy / will watch the north end ing blue-black eyes / wearing dead Time’s Change Café (Main & St. Mary; the city’s many parks in summer,” says die / and sing “I love this town” / then men’s neckties. 204-957-0982) Stephen Carroll, “…in winter, on the let his arching wrecking ball proclaim: “I Lyrics by John K. Samson from “Fal- Best art venue: Plug In Institute of river ice paths.” hate Winnipeg.” low” (Fallow, 1997), in reference to the Contemporary Art (286 McDermot Best “old man” bar: Pembina Hotel Lyrics by John K. Samson from “None Disraeli bridge over the Red River just Avenue; 204-942-1043) (1011 Pembina Highway; 204-453-3724) of the Above” (Fallow, 1997): All night north of downtown: Out under the Dis- Best place to go for cocktails: Rae Best place for a drink that isn’t restaurant, North Kildonan / lukewarm raeli / with rusty train track ties / we’ll and Jerry’s Steak House (see page 61) a bar: German Society of Winnipeg coffee tastes like soap / I trace your carve new streets and sidewalks / a city Best place to go for pints: King’s Head (285 Flora Avenue; 204-589-7724) outline in spilled sugar / killing time and for small lives / and say we’ll stay for Pub (120 King Street; 204-957-7710) killing hope. one more year. 52 AUGUST/2006 • up-magazine.com « Boissons de filles et jeux de salon » Winnipeg derrière les paroles L’abreuvoir favori des Weakerthans prouve que la vie nocturne de Paroles de John K. Samson tirées de « One Paroles de John K. Samson tirées de « Wel- Winnipeg a plus à offrir que l’alcool et l’ironie, même si vous trou- Great City! » (Reconstruction Site, 2003), lington’s Wednesdays » (Fallow, 1997) : Et vez les deux dans les bars douillets et les salons singuliers en référence à la statue dorée en haut de chaque soir, ils jouent la même chanson Meilleur endroit pour la musique Meilleur endroit pour un verre de vin : l’édifice de l’assemblée législative provin- / pour les mêmes adeptes excentriques / punk, rock et pop: Cavern (112, rue Fude (99, rue Osborne; 204-284-3833) ciale : en haut au-dessus de nous / penché et tout le monde reprend la chanson / les Osborne; 204-284-7201) Meilleur endroit pour se détendre : dans le ciel / notre garçon doré / regardera yeux bleus-noirs / portant les noeuds cou- Meilleur endroit pour la musique folk « l’un des nombreux parcs de la ville en été », le nord mourir / et chantera « J’adore cette lants des morts. et country : Time’s Change Café (rue dit Stephen Carroll, « … en hiver, sur les che- ville » / puis laissera son boulet de démoli- Paroles de John K. Samson tirées de « Fal- Principale et St. Mary; 204-957-0982) mins de glace de la rivière ». tion proclamer : « Je déteste Winnipeg ». low » (Fallow, 1997), en référence au pont Meilleur endroit pour l’art : Plug In Insti- Meilleur bar « vieux bonhomme » : Paroles de John K. Samson tirées de « None Disraeli au-dessus de la rivière Rouge juste tute (286, avenue McDermot; 204-942-1043) Pembina Hotel (1011, autoroute Pembina; of the Above » Fallow, 1997) : Restaurant au nord du centre-ville : Sous le pont Dis- Meilleur endroit pour les cocktails : 204-453-3724) ouvert toute la nuit, à Kildonan nord / le raeli / avec des traverses rouillées / nous Rae and Jerry’s Steak House (voir page 61) Meilleur endroit pour boire un verre café tiède a le goût de savon / je dessine ta sculpterons de nouvelles rues et de nou- Meilleur endroit pour la bière : King’s qui ne soit pas un bar : German Society silhouette dans le sucre éparpillé / pour tuer veaux trottoirs / une ville pour les petites Head Pub (120, rue King; 204-957-7710) (285, avenue Flora; 204-589-7724) le temps et tuer l’espoir. vies / et nous y resterons encore un an.

westjet.com • AUGUST/2006 53 16 JUNE/09 | up-magazine.com

STORY BY ERIC RUMBLE | ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHAD VANGAALEN CALGARY trailhead into Calgary, courtesy of one one of courtesy Calgary, into trailhead hustling, sky-scraped core—as asecret the from ride bike half-hour easy an Park, Edworthy of views here—both theloudest entitywithinearshot. it’s in the raw flushthe Bow of River when lurching branches sprawl of and mall, or parkland, crammedbyever- boughs of celebrated enough. You’ll find it in the thatisn’t bending aspecttoCalgary THERE’S ATOTALLY bucolic, mind- in words andpictures, how to lose yourself inhishometown Psychedelic wunderkindChad VanGaalen explains, A Concrete Dreamer's Guideto Calgary

Think of thetwo scenespictured Think of creative ITI creative N ERAR Y from 2008’s SoftAirplane. tune brooding a Time,” of Bits “Rabid of end the the tracksdepicted here at train soundsthatwere recorded near You canhear basement. his in created painstakingly it of all videos, music trippy and art album self-produced by bolstered each 2004, since records solo acclaimed three out put has VanGaalen Award andPolaris Prizenominee, Juno A VanGaalen. Chad artists, young enigmatic and lauded most city’s the of

muses; they’re what grounds Calgarians. fer zones like Edworthy are more than undervalued natural resources. Butbuf- space and talent are perhaps its most As VanGaalen illustrates, the city’s raw in the cracks between boom and bust. fantastic creative force that’s germinated Calgary’s other unpolished gem: a scape because he’s agreat conduitfor hometown’s often-elusiveculturalland- illustrator and animator to point out his We’ve enlisted this prolific musician,

“I just like sitting by the railroad the city’s disparate public parks are the much as it is concealed. As VanGaalen tracks,” says VanGaalen. “I take my peak of communal amusement. himself admits, somewhat boastfully, dog and my daughter for a walk up At night, Edworthy transforms into Calgary has so many there and up through the Doug Fir another source that’s challenging to “ trails as often as I can. I grew up on find in Calgary: mystique. “It’s kind of places where you can the other side of those tracks, in Wild- this righteous, weird portal, and cars just disappear. wood, so I’ve been going to Edworthy can’t go through there,” VanGaalen And it’s the act of disappearing” that's my whole life.” says. “It’s awesome to ride your bike key to exploring this particular city. What Nowadays, part of the attraction down there knowing that you’re going follows is a collection of homegrown is the social smorgasbord that’s also to hit this patch of complete darkness artists and obscure attractions that will westjet.com drawn here: athletes of all shapes and silence. It’s kind of freaky.” lead you into the underbelly of the local and sizes, giant ethnic wedding par- Perhaps it’s a healthy dose of creative scene. The portrait of Calgary ties, new money coddling miniature freakiness that’s missing from Calgary’s that you emerge with will be entirely |

dogs and iPhones, homeless people daily grind. After all, this is the de unexpected, without a whiff of manure, barbecuing hot dogs. Finding a good facto capital of Canada’s conservative midway snacks, pancake breakfasts or JUNE/09 spot to observe Calgary’s human traffic heartland. But the city’s unkempt, un- boot-clad revelry. can be a tall order, even for a local, but conventional character isn’t absent so Now, giddy up and get lost. 17 18 JUNE/09 | up-magazine.com a show,” Flegel says. wanted to have by people who was justputon real bareven, andit very pretentious, not a (artlifegallery.ca). “Itwas not played at theArtlife Gallery Flegel picked ashow that Women Asked aboutagreat local venue, eerie low-fi debut album (pictured). com), andVanGaalen recorded their GrandJunction (theatrejunction. crowd ofmore than400at Theatre Women played theirfirst show to a airport inearly 2009,duringaEuropean tourtogether. VanGaalen. “He’s alsoacomedicgenius.” thenicest guysIknow,”town, andhe’s oneof says Airplane’s grippingopeningtrack,“WillowTree.” Skelliconnection, thenendedupplaying accordion onSoft 2006’s of VanGaalen’s of songs off and jumpedinonafew ago. HewastouringwiththeCape May ontheEastCoast years started playing music withVanGaalen acoupleof bandWomen Calgary labelmatesandfellow The bassistfor Ma need toseeitallthetime.” wicked;and that’s ButIdon’t Ilovecowboysridinghorses. beautifulbronze thingshere, likeof cowboysridinghorses— valid thananythingelse, butyou overdose onit.There’s alot art,” says VanGaalen. “And anymore I’mnotsaying orless it’s isbelowthesurface. with oilandgas,thepayoff T Local to artists scope out apping into Calgary’s artscenerequires exploration.As VanGaalen drew this portait of FlegelattheAmsterdam VanGaalen drewthisportaitof anyone in “He lays downthebaddest-assbasslinesof “It’s a corporate town, so you see a lot of thatcorporate acorporatetown,soyou seealotof “It’s tt Flegel tt up oncomicbooks.” immediately,” says VanGaalen. notlowbrow, “It’s butIgrew DIYcreative streak. Calgary’s leftonhiswork,marks they’ve andbecausetheyspeakto theindelible VanGaalen artistsbecauseof chosethesefour jams andpower suits,anantithesisbeginstomaterialize. in easily accessible storage. of ATCs (created by Mabieandothers) the ATC phenomenon) andastash from local whichhelpedlaunch artists, (a collection of50-oddrecipes of COOKARTBOOK '98 month. TNGalso hascopies the last Saturday ofevery- to create andtrade on adults andelders alike bringing together kids, (thenewgallery.org), The New Gallery are going still strong tradingArtist card sessions blages, whatever. items, assem- stamps, found photography, collage, drawing, painting, anything— with justabout or cards adorned 2 ½”x3canvases to make andswap just aboutanyone a customthatasks trading cards (ATCs), artist with theconceptof he helpedenrichNorthAmericans solo exhibitionsinCanadaandEurope, mailartand20-plus decadesof four provocative legacyinCalgary. Beyond interior in2006,hebuiltapioneering, around like he’s anormalman.” VanGaalen, joyfully, “andyet hewalks just amagicalhumanbeing,” says sake. creativity’s creativityfor “He’s of admired hisiconoclasmandpromotion ArtandDesign(ACAD),VanGaalen of acquaintance attheAlbertaCollege Though Mabiewasonlyacasual Don Mabie(aka ChuckStake) “The stuff that I respect is the stuff thatIcanunderstand thatIrespect isthestuff “The stuff As you traffic getpastthebronze idols,gleaming façades, Though Mabie moved to the B.C. Though MabiemovedtotheB.C. Wendy Toogood Chris Millar VanGaalen describes Discovering Millar was “one Toogood as someone who of the first times I’ve been “embraces the most unpre- blown away by an artist in tentious side of art imagin- town from the same sort of able.” He’s fascinated by age group of people,” says her weird, intricate, tactile VanGaalen. “I appreciate him creations (often composed technically, and… his work is using a range of fabrics like an acid trip.” and materials) that fall That particular com- somewhere between parison is bang on. Millar’s illustration and tapestry, intense sculptural works “almost Mexican death art draw from a pastiche of pop mixed with the best parts culture and, according to the of underground comics. artist, “the all-over aesthetic They’re like paintings, of early Renaissance panel only she’s using a painting, gothic fresco and needle and thread. It’s Indian miniatures.” Spoof really childlike—not and sitcom-style narratives, often in a bad way—and concerned with Calgarian really unselfconscious.” artists, are woven and Toogood has been absorbed into overflow- winning awards for her ing layers of acrylic art for 25 years, and paint, aiming to is represented in “celebrate the public and private absurd, the exces- collections, includ- sive, the decorative, ing Edmonton’s City bad-taste, failure Hall. Her lastest and ultimately, local exhibit was time well spent”— at Stride Gallery a style Millar calls (stride.ab.ca) “post-interesting.” in late 2008. Millar launches his new Seeing Toogood’s art book, Simon & Farfenou- means going on a gan & Hunter this month at mission. The Illingworth TrépanierBaer Gallery Kerr Gallery at ACAD (trepanierbaer.com), (acad.ab.ca/ikg.html) which represents him and the Glenbow locally. The space will Museum (glenbow.org) feature at least one sculpture have her work in their (pictured), nine paintings and a archives, and a handful vinyl recording created by Millar, of office buildings all on exhibit through the summer. downtown have her TrépanierBaer also has a great online pieces on public display. gallery of Millar's work.

For a map to these galleries and more, check out Chad VanGaalen’s Calgary bike tour at up-magazine.com/calgary.

Q&A with Chad VanGaalen Which of your songs is most rooted in a Calgary location? What summer events are you looking forward to? “I’d have to say ‘TMNT Mask’ off of . As the song “Calgary Folk Fest (July 23 – 26; calgaryfolkfest.com) is pretty says, I just went down to sit by the river, and I wrote the rad. Prince's Island Park is beautiful in summer. And Sled whole song in an hour.” Island (June 24 – 27; sledisland.com), too—it just keeps on westjet.com What excites you about Calgary’s future? getting crazier and crazier every year.” “I still have faith that it’s going to be the solar power capital How would you spend $20 in Calgary on a great summer day? of the world. There’s a house called the Alberta Sustainable “Probably going comic shopping at Phoenix Comics |

Home (ecobuildings.net) up in the deep northwest in the mid- (phoenixcomics.ca), or record shopping at Melodiya, which dle of the suburbs, run and built by these two architects who is located within Phoenix.” JUNE/09 work in renewable energy. They’ve got a home built from the bottom up to be sustainable—a massive, suburban house.” 19 20 JUNE/09 | up-magazine.com Royal JAW-DROPPING PUBLICART BEST LIVEMUSIC BAR Chad V and Thursdays at 6p.m.(Admission, cantos.ca) $5–$8; . Checkonlinefor performance schedules. The Cantos MusicFoundation runspublictours oftheircollection onSundays at 1:30and3p.m., which tourguideswillfire uptoscore aChaplinforvisitors. film most impressively, ahuge, Depression-era Kimballtheatre organ— a gorgeous Italianpolygonal harpsichord builtin1560and, original songwritingpiano, thefirst-evermini-Moogmodel D, like crazy.” It’s books. pianos downstairs that are hundreds years of old stacked vertically They have themodularsynththatscored Now. Apocalypse They have relics isintheSmithsonian.) onlycomparablecache of true: thecontinent’s biggest analoguesynthesizercollection…anywhere,” gushesVanGaalen. (It’s grammer andaninteractiveshowcasekeyboard for genealogy. and aspiringmusicians, achameleonconcertspace, aninclusiveeventpro- This red-bricked throwback operatesasaneducationalcentreschoolkids for C goes homefrom work. aghosttown.” It’s justdysfunctional.Nothingexiststhere aftereveryone downtown,”hesays.“It’s “Idon’t out-of-towners. hateCalgary’s for Like manyCalgarians, VanGaalen’s hishometownstallswhen amplelovefor itcomestocraftinganessentialitinerary Unlikely pointsofinterest andkettle.com), withhomemade bread andlots ofgood toppings.”+ SOUVENIR anto Cantos’ 700-artifact collectionalsoincludesEltonJohn’sCantos’ 700-artifact “There’s Buchlatons of stuff, which is super rare, and Moogtons stuff.of theworld. We“I’m asynthjunkie, like have andit’s the thesynthMeccaof His advice?Explore theoutdoors,sunshineandChinooks,don’t misstheseculturalcornerstones. , because theroads are always so smooth.” + s MusicFounda anGaalen's local list short “A ofdust.” shoe full + Broken (brokencity.ca) City + tion The Family ofManby MarioArmengol (515 Macleod Tr. SE)+ PORTAL INTO ANOTHER DIMENSION BEST BIKERIDE BEST VALUE FAST FOOD “Along theBow River into Bowness.” + BEST ART GALLERY TO LOITER IN concert tickets. Wednesday to Saturday, andboastsCalgary’s best-value Marquee Roombarhosts arange ofDJsandbandsfrom weekends (Admission, $5–$9;theuptown.com). The The Uptown screens filmsnightly andhasmatinees on you Gump3orShrek9?” gonnagosee?Forrest up atCineplexorsomethingwhere, what are something goodisplaying. notlike It’s showing vintage lobbyfurnishings. flourishes like agoldbrocade screen curtainand quirky Thecerebral artshows. tripisaidedby partiesand as amakeshift fantastic spacefor live music (onTheMarquee Room’s stage)and high-conceptandfirst-runfilm,intimate for intoagreat venue itself treasure hasfashioned beautiful placetowatchashow.” stillleftstanding, that’s ings inCalgary a andit’s themostbeautifulbuild- VanGaalen. oneof “It’s “I’ve beengoingthere sinceIwasakid,”says The Upto “You just kind of showupattheUptownand “You justkindof Erected nearly sixdecadesago, thisartdeco “The dinosaur parkat theCalgary“The Zoo (calgaryzoo.org).” “The killer at sandwiches LazyLoaf&Kettle“The (lazyloaf wn St age andS FAVOURITE PLACE TO SKATE creen UBIQUITOUS CALGARY TRUCK Gallery (truck.ca) + “Mount - 22 JUNE/09 | up-magazine.com Animation Festival (giraffest.ca) . (fairytalesfilmfest.com) andtheGiant Incandescent Resonating events like theFairy T casual daytime hours, anditsprogramming varies. Italso fosters annual The EMMEDIA/Quickdraw facility (emmedia.ca; qas.awn.com) keeps availabletomembers. excellent production facility There’sevents. alsoamassiveresearch library, andan random installations, smallconcertsandallsortsof screen works inprogressart, performance andfor 70-seat theatrespaceto asaperformance scene. Insummer, membersusetheno-frills, pendent andexperimentalmotionpicture inde- Calgary’s groups istheheartof me waspretty magical.” VanGaalen. “To make itthateasyfor drawing sincewhen Iwasakid,”says animation, andI’ve obviouslyloved gave himakey. “I’ve alwaysloved sawhisfirstanimation,they the staff equipment until4a.m.,andwhen workshops; heexperimentedwiththeir EMMEDIA’s videoproduction one of he dropped inwhile afriendwastaking talents asananimatorwere realized. Oneday, This low-key clubhouseiswhere VanGaalen’s xthis summer, withaCanada starting Day show inToronto (flemisheye.com/chad-vangaalen). by late summer. He’ll finish a14-day European tour thismonth andthenbe all over theCanadian map a B-sidescompilation album, aswell asVanGaalen’s first DVD collection oforiginal animated shorts, Snow Blindness isCrystal Antz.Hislongtimelocal label, , also plans to putout On July 21,VanGaalen release will thefirst record by his electronic alter ego: Black Mold’s Hear andsee Chad V EMMEDIA GALLERY & The buildingshared bythesetwo ales International Gay &Lesbian FilmFestival PR ODUC anGaalen thissummer TION S OCIETY/QUICKDRAW ANIMA TION S Park. ( K is drawntothebanksinBowness,near landscape,in thecity’s andVanGaalen figures lifeblood prominently Calgary’s THE BO of it—allthesediffer of and warmdaysthelook thattransform river freezes over, andyou gethotdays river,” hesays.“Ireally like when the to stopinthemiddleandcheckout can remember I’ve madeamentalnote west overintoEdworthy, eversinceI about it.” something different up. There’s always as theicebreaks ent geometricshapes OCIETY lippert Concrete (pictured) and Bowmont “Crossing thebridgeintosouth- K lippert baffles him in a bad way.) W RIVER -