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Damian Barr + Edinburgh's Liquid FOR MEMBERS OF THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY DAMIAN BARR + EDINBURGH’S LIQUID HISTORY + SMWS PARTNER BARS ISLAND ODYSSEY + WHISKY EXPRESSIONS + IAN BUXTON r.r.p £5.99 No. 32 july 2016 StillWATERS GET A FLAVOUR FOR THE SOCIETY AT OUR EXCLUSIVE PARTNER BARS Experience the delights of a unique SMWS single cask, single malt at any one of our fantastic partner bars AUSTRALIA ONE18 EMPIRE, JAPAN THE FISHERMAN’S WHISKY & ALEMENT, Calgary PARK HOTEL WHISKY BAR RETREAT, Melbourne FETS WHISKY KITCHEN, THE SOCIETY, Ramsbottom EAU DE VIE, Vancouver Tokyo MUSA, Melbourne LITTLE JUMBO, BAR SELENE, Aberdeen THE KILBURN, Victoria Tokyo Melbourne BAR ANDANTE, USA ROB ROY HOTEL, EUROPE Sendai JACK ROSE DINING Adelaide SMWS BAR BARNS, SALOON, ROCKPOOL BAR MEMBERS’ ROOM, VEJLE, Nagoya Washington, DC AND GRILL, Denmark BAR KELLER, DRUMBAR, Sydney THE WHARF, AALBORG, Kyoto Chicago THREE BLUE DUCKS, Denmark BAR CERES, FOUNTAINHEAD, Sydney HIGHLANDERS BAR, Osaka Chicago VARNISH ON KING, AARHUS, BAR FOUQUE, THE UNION Perth Denmark Hiroshima LEAGUE CLUB, COBBLER, LIDKOEB, COPENHAGEN, BAR OSCAR, Chicago Brisbane Denmark Fukuoka EL GAUCHO, THE LITTLE PRINCE, CHARLIE’S BAR, Seattle Wollongong COPENHAGEN, NEW ZEALAND CANON, HOWLIN’ WOLF BAR, Denmark SCOTIA BAR, Seattle Wollongong SMWS SOCIETY BAR, Dunedin BROUWER’S MOLLY, BERGSLAGENS CAFÉ, Canberra DESTILLERI, NORA, UK Seattle THE LARK DISTILLERY Sweden BON ACCORD, THE BARREL ‘CELLAR DOOR’, SMWS MEMBERS ROOM, Glasgow, THIEF, Tasmania SCHÖNENWERD, BOISDALE CANARY WHARF, Seattle Switzerland London WINGTIP, CANADA MARIANS JAZZROOM, DUCKS AT San Francisco BRASSERIE KENSINGTON, BERN, KILSPINDIE HOUSE, SAGE IN ARIA, Calgary Switzerland Aberlady Las Vegas SEARCH ‘PARTNER BARS’ AT SMWS.COM ISSUE No .32 CONTENTS JULY 2016 p11 WORLD of WHISKY SMWS Island Odyssey SMWS news Weaving our way to the The latest from near and far-------- 4 magical Isle of Mull ................................ 15 Flavour Behaviour The Knowledge The SMWS scientific experiment Why reflux matters ................................ 20 goes global--------------------------------------------- 8 Mavericks of Malt Edinburgh’s liquid history Sonat Birnecker Hart at Koval .. 22 Drink in the past and present ...... 11 Distillery profile Outturners Kingsbarns ------------------------------------------ 27 EDINBURGH A city and Matt Bailey, SMWS Australia - 26 One of a kind its liquid history Partner bars Linn Products------------------------------------ 24 Caffé Libero in Taiwan ---------------34 THE COLUMNISTS p27 THINK TANK DAMIAN BARR & WHISKY IAN BUXTON EXPRESSIONS Reflections on the wider whisky Tom Bruce-Gardyne world from our regular on new expressions and whether contributors they are innovation, or fad p7 TAKING WING How Kingsbarns Distillery is helping to put Fife p31 on the whisky map p30 HAPPY MEMBERS UNFILTERED MAGAZINE Unfiltered is available to members of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. To join us, PUBLISHED BY CONTACTS DISCLAIMER of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Editor: Kai Ivalo The views expressed in Unfiltered should equally make application contact your local branch Registered in Scotland No SC83022 [email protected] by invited contributors are not to the publisher. Prices quoted in AUSTRALIA JAPAN www.smws Registered Office: necessarily those of The Scotch Unfiltered relate to the UK branch. www.smws. Managing editor: Richard Goslan com.au japan.com The Vaults, 87 Giles Street, Malt Whisky Society. The publisher The SMWS cannot be held to prices [email protected] AUSTRIA NEW ZEALAND Edinburgh EH6 6BZ cannot accept liability for errors or printed in www.smws.at www.smws.co.nz Design: Renny Hutchison omissions. On no account may any error. The BENELUX/ POLAND © Copyright of The Scotch Malt www.smws.pl [email protected] part of this publication, including paper used GERMANY Whisky Society 2016 www.smws.nl SWEDEN Marketing opportunities: images, be reproduced, in English for Unfiltered CANADA www.smws.se PRODUCTION or in translation, without the written is FSC® www.smws.ca SWITZERLAND [email protected] www.smws.ch Unfiltered is produced on behalf of permission of the copyholder and (sustainable DENMARK www.smws.dk TAIWAN The Scotch Malt Whisky Society by COVER IMAGE publisher, application for which forest HONG KONG www.smws.com.tw Connect Media Ltd Sonat Birnecker Hart at Koval should be made to the publisher. management) www.smws. UK com.hk www.smws.com www.connectmedia.cc Distillery. Photo by Chris Neseman Overseas branches or franchises certified. INDIA USA www.smws.co.in www.smwsa.com SMWS.COM 3 COMING SOON! A1 RIGHT ROYAL MAKEOVER THE SMWS Members’ Rooms at 28 Queen Street in Edinburgh are undergoing a striking overhaul this summer, with a top-to-bottom makeover. When completed, members will have an exclusive area on the building’s second floor, where they will be able to relax and enjoy table service as well as make the most of a special tasting table with SMWS 28 Queen Street is ready OVAL ambassadors and a private snug area. for a top-to-bottom makeover, including a The ground floor will have a retail space SESSION where you can purchase SMWS bottlings, From September on the first and a bar area open to the public, as well and third Friday every month, as a new Oval Tasting Bar. take part in Outturn Tasting Sessions at the new Oval Tasting Bar on the “SMWS members will ground floor be able to experience a superlative and 3D impression Members will have a special tasting of the ground floor table to sit at with ambassadors exclusive environment with Oval Tasting Bar on the second floor” JAN-WILLEM DAMEN The award-winning Dining Room at 28 Queen Street moves to the first floor, where capacity will be doubled and head chef James Freeman will unveil an expanded menu. The restaurant will also have separate dining areas for private The expanded Dining Room bookings and member parties. will have new booth-style Jan-Willem Damen, operations director seating incorporated into UK, said: “28 Queen Street will be the design welcoming and open to all on the ground floor, and the spiral staircase will draw visitors upstairs to our fantastic restaurant An impression – but SMWS members will be able to of the experience a superlative and exclusive exclusive members’ environment on the second floor.” lounge on the The refurbishment will take place second floor in stages, so it will continue to be open throughout the process. 28 Queen Street will hold an Open House on Friday, 5 August to welcome members to their newly refurbished home in Edinburgh. 4 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY THE SMWS ADVENTURES SCOTLAND OVER THE BOOK YOUR SEA TO ISLAY 3 RESERVATION FESTIVAL MEMBERS can mix literary pleasures with their single cask, single malts at the 2THE SMWS returned to Fèis Ìle this Wigtown Book Festival this year, as the year to host its open day at Islay House SMWS sponsors the prestigious event for to kick off the festival. the first time. This year’s open day, a garden party The festival has hosted Unfiltered’s very fiesta, was packed with activities – own columnists Ian Buxton and Damian from three Project Flavour Behaviour Barr in the past, and there will be plenty of test sessions to a chilli eating whisky involved in this year’s programme, competition. Guests were also treated Islay House, with a special SMWS tasting event. to the special 2016 Fèis Ìle release, venue for the The festival runs from 23 September to Cask No. 127.44: Cantina Mexicana. SMWS’s open 2 October in Wigtown, and members Senior brand manager Helen day at the Islay qualify for a 20 per cent discount. Look out Festival Stewart was at Islay House on the day for more details when the full programme and said the Project Flavour Behaviour is announced in August. events attracted lots of curious people to participate. “We enjoyed some great drams with some fantastic people,” she said. “Around 95 guests took part in our Project Flavour Behaviour tests and 20% The SMWS we were thrilled to see so many brave will sponsor volunteers sign up for our chilli eating DISCOUNT WITH this year’s competition. We’re looking forward to Wigtown Book Festival next year already.” CODE SMWS16 on ticket bookings at www.wigtownbook festival.com EDITOR’S NOTES WITH KAI IVALO An issue packed with flavour Something for everyone - whatever hosted a series of Project Flavour Behaviour shouldn’t be missed. With just one issue left your personality or preference events around the world. We searched far of the series, can you guess which island and wide for volunteers to take part in our we’ll be visiting next? secret test sessions, which took place at partner bars in Vancouver, Washington, n a different distilling landscape, our lavour has always been DC, and Melbourne and in SMWS venues ambassador Phoebe Brookes visits important to the SMWS. It’s in London and Edinburgh. Curious whisky Koval Distillery in Chicago for this clear to see we live and breathe drinkers gathered to take a personality test month’s Mavericks of Malt on page it – from the tasting notes on and sample 12 SMWS whiskies – all in the 22. Phoebe chats to Koval’s president. the front of the bottle to our 12 name of scientific research. Read more ISonat Birnecker Hart, to learn how she and Fflavour profiles. Back when the SMWS was about the events on page 8. her husband helped create a craft distilling founded in 1983, it was a little harder to get boom in the Windy City. your hands on quite the variety of whisky his issue’s Island Odyssey We always enjoy hearing from our that’s on offer today. In Express Yourself on takes us to an often forgotten members so please do share your feedback page 31, Tom Bruce-Gardyne investigates whisky island, the Isle of Mull. on this issue by getting in touch via Facebook the growing range of expressions on offer Nestled in the Inner Hebrides, at www.facebook/Unfilteredmagazine, or to today’s whisky drinker for this issue’s the island may only have one send an email to [email protected] Think Tank.
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