FOR MEMBERS OF THE SCOTCH MALT SOCIETY

DAMIAN BARR + EDINBURGH’S LIQUID HISTORY + SMWS PARTNER BARS ISLAND ODYSSEY + WHISKY EXPRESSIONS + IAN BUXTON r.r.p £5.99 No. 32 july 2016

StillWATERS GET A FLAVOUR FOR THE SOCIETY AT OUR EXCLUSIVE PARTNER BARS Experience the delights of a unique SMWS single cask, single malt at any one of our fantastic partner bars

AUSTRALIA ONE18 EMPIRE, JAPAN THE FISHERMAN’S WHISKY & ALEMENT, Calgary PARK HOTEL WHISKY BAR RETREAT, Melbourne FETS WHISKY KITCHEN, THE SOCIETY, Ramsbottom EAU DE VIE, Vancouver Tokyo MUSA, Melbourne LITTLE JUMBO, BAR SELENE, Aberdeen THE KILBURN, Victoria Tokyo Melbourne BAR ANDANTE, USA ROB ROY HOTEL, EUROPE Sendai JACK ROSE DINING Adelaide SMWS BAR BARNS, SALOON, ROCKPOOL BAR MEMBERS’ ROOM, VEJLE, Nagoya Washington, DC AND GRILL, Denmark BAR KELLER, DRUMBAR, Sydney THE WHARF, AALBORG, Kyoto Chicago THREE BLUE DUCKS, Denmark BAR CERES, FOUNTAINHEAD, Sydney HIGHLANDERS BAR, Osaka Chicago VARNISH ON KING, AARHUS, BAR FOUQUE, THE UNION Perth Denmark Hiroshima LEAGUE CLUB, COBBLER, LIDKOEB, COPENHAGEN, BAR OSCAR, Chicago Brisbane Denmark Fukuoka EL GAUCHO, THE LITTLE PRINCE, CHARLIE’S BAR, Seattle Wollongong COPENHAGEN, NEW ZEALAND CANON, HOWLIN’ WOLF BAR, Denmark SCOTIA BAR, Seattle Wollongong SMWS SOCIETY BAR, Dunedin BROUWER’S MOLLY, BERGSLAGENS CAFÉ, Canberra DESTILLERI, NORA, UK Seattle THE LARK DISTILLERY Sweden BON ACCORD, THE ‘CELLAR DOOR’, SMWS MEMBERS ROOM, Glasgow, THIEF, Tasmania SCHÖNENWERD, BOISDALE CANARY WHARF, Seattle Switzerland WINGTIP, CANADA MARIANS JAZZROOM, DUCKS AT San Francisco BRASSERIE KENSINGTON, BERN, KILSPINDIE HOUSE, SAGE IN ARIA, Calgary Switzerland Aberlady Las Vegas

SEARCH ‘PARTNER BARS’ AT SMWS.COM ISSUE No .32 CONTENTS JULY 2016

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WORLD of WHISKY SMWS Island Odyssey SMWS news

Weaving our way to the The latest from near and far - - - - - 4 magical ...... 15 Flavour Behaviour The Knowledge The SMWS scientific experiment

Why reflux matters...... 20 goes global ------8 Mavericks of Malt Edinburgh’s liquid history

Sonat Birnecker Hart at Koval. . . 22 Drink in the past and present . . . . . 11 Distillery profile Outturners Kingsbarns ------27 EDINBURGH A city and Matt Bailey, SMWS Australia - 26 One of a kind its liquid history Partner bars

Linn Products ------24 Caffé Libero in Taiwan ------34- THE COLUMNISTS p27 THINK TANK DAMIAN BARR & WHISKY IAN BUXTON EXPRESSIONS Reflections on the wider whisky Tom Bruce -Gardyne world from our regular on new expressions and whether contributors they are innovation, or fad p7

TAKING WING How Kingsbarns Distillery is helping to put Fife p31 on the whisky map p30 HAPPY MEMBERS UNFILTERED MAGAZINE Unfiltered is available to members of The Scotch Society . To join us, PUBLISHED BY CONTACTS DISCLAIMER of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Editor: Kai Ivalo The views expressed in Unfiltered should equally make application contact your local branch Registered in Scotland No SC83022 [email protected] by invited contributors are not to the publisher. Prices quoted in AUSTRALIA JAPAN www.smws Registered Office: necessarily those of The Scotch Unfiltered relate to the UK branch. www.smws. Managing editor: Richard Goslan com.au japan.com The Vaults, 87 Giles Street, Malt Whisky Society. The publisher The SMWS cannot be held to prices [email protected] AUSTRIA NEW ZEALAND Edinburgh EH6 6BZ cannot accept liability for errors or printed in www.smws.at www.smws.co.nz Design: Renny Hutchison omissions. On no account may any error. The BENELUX/ POLAND © Copyright of The Scotch Malt www.smws.pl [email protected] part of this publication, including paper used GERMANY Whisky Society 2016 www.smws.nl SWEDEN Marketing opportunities: images, be reproduced, in English for Unfiltered CANADA www.smws.se PRODUCTION or in translation, without the written is FSC® www.smws.ca SWITZERLAND [email protected] www.smws.ch Unfiltered is produced on behalf of permission of the copyholder and (sustainable DENMARK www.smws.dk TAIWAN The Scotch Malt Whisky Society by COVER IMAGE publisher, application for which forest HONG KONG www.smws.com.tw Connect Media Ltd Sonat Birnecker Hart at Koval should be made to the publisher. management) www.smws. UK com.hk www.smws.com www.connectmedia.cc Distillery. Photo by Chris Neseman Overseas branches or franchises certified. INDIA USA www.smws.co.in www.smwsa.com

SMWS.COM 3 COMING SOON! A1 RIGHT ROYAL MAKEOVER THE SMWS Members’ Rooms at 28 Queen Street in Edinburgh are undergoing a striking overhaul this summer, with a top-to-bottom makeover. When completed, members will have an exclusive area on the building’s second floor, where they will be able to relax and enjoy table service as well as make the most of a special tasting table with SMWS 28 Queen Street is ready OVAL ambassadors and a private snug area. for a top-to-bottom makeover, including a The ground floor will have a retail space SESSION where you can purchase SMWS bottlings, From September on the first and a bar area open to the public, as well and third Friday every month, as a new Oval Tasting Bar. take part in Outturn Tasting Sessions at the new Oval Tasting Bar on the “SMWS members will ground floor be able to experience a superlative and 3D impression Members will have a special tasting of the ground floor table to sit at with ambassadors exclusive environment with Oval Tasting Bar on the second floor”

JAN-WILLEM DAMEN

The award-winning Dining Room at 28 Queen Street moves to the first floor, where capacity will be doubled and head chef James Freeman will unveil an expanded menu. The restaurant will also have separate dining areas for private The expanded Dining Room bookings and member parties. will have new booth-style Jan-Willem Damen, operations director seating incorporated into UK, said: “28 Queen Street will be the design welcoming and open to all on the ground floor, and the spiral staircase will draw visitors upstairs to our fantastic restaurant An impression – but SMWS members will be able to of the experience a superlative and exclusive exclusive members’ environment on the second floor.” lounge on the The refurbishment will take place second floor in stages, so it will continue to be open throughout the process.

28 Queen Street will hold an Open House on Friday, 5 August to welcome members to their newly refurbished home in Edinburgh.

4 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY THE SMWS

ADVENTURES SCOTLAND OVER THE BOOK YOUR SEA TO ISLAY 3 RESERVATION FESTIVAL MEMBERS can mix literary pleasures with their single cask, single malts at the 2THE SMWS returned to Fèis Ìle this Wigtown Book Festival this year, as the year to host its open day at Islay House SMWS sponsors the prestigious event for to kick off the festival. the first time. This year’s open day, a garden party The festival has hosted Unfiltered’s very fiesta, was packed with activities – own columnists Ian Buxton and Damian from three Project Flavour Behaviour Barr in the past, and there will be plenty of test sessions to a chilli eating whisky involved in this year’s programme, competition. Guests were also treated Islay House, with a special SMWS tasting event. to the special 2016 Fèis Ìle release, venue for the The festival runs from 23 September to Cask No. 127.44: Cantina Mexicana. SMWS’s open 2 October in Wigtown, and members Senior brand manager Helen day at the Islay qualify for a 20 per cent discount. Look out Festival Stewart was at Islay House on the day for more details when the full programme and said the Project Flavour Behaviour is announced in August. events attracted lots of curious people to participate. “We enjoyed some great drams with some fantastic people,” she said. “Around 95 guests took part in our Project Flavour Behaviour tests and 20% The SMWS we were thrilled to see so many brave will sponsor volunteers sign up for our chilli eating DISCOUNT WITH this year’s competition. We’re looking forward to Wigtown Book Festival next year already.” CODE SMWS16 on ticket bookings at www.wigtownbook festival.com

EDITOR’S NOTES WITH KAI IVALO An issue packed with flavour

Something for everyone - whatever hosted a series of Project Flavour Behaviour shouldn’t be missed. With just one issue left your personality or preference events around the world. We searched far of the series, can you guess which island and wide for volunteers to take part in our we’ll be visiting next? secret test sessions, which took place at partner bars in Vancouver, Washington, n a different distilling landscape, our lavour has always been DC, and Melbourne and in SMWS venues ambassador Phoebe Brookes visits important to the SMWS. It’s in London and Edinburgh. Curious whisky Koval Distillery in Chicago for this clear to see we live and breathe drinkers gathered to take a personality test month’s Mavericks of Malt on page it – from the tasting notes on and sample 12 SMWS – all in the 22. Phoebe chats to Koval’s president. the front of the bottle to our 12 name of scientific research. Read more ISonat Birnecker Hart, to learn how she and Fflavour profiles. Back when the SMWS was about the events on page 8. her husband helped create a craft distilling founded in 1983, it was a little harder to get boom in the Windy City. your hands on quite the variety of whisky his issue’s Island Odyssey We always enjoy hearing from our that’s on offer today. In Express Yourself on takes us to an often forgotten members so please do share your feedback page 31, Tom Bruce-Gardyne investigates whisky island, the Isle of Mull. on this issue by getting in touch via Facebook the growing range of expressions on offer Nestled in the Inner , at www.facebook/Unfilteredmagazine, or to today’s whisky drinker for this issue’s the island may only have one send an email to [email protected] Think Tank. singleT distillery, but as Unfiltered’s Richard Also, be sure to check out the SMWS blog at We celebrated all things flavour this Croasdale discovers, it’s got plenty to offer www.smws.com/blog/ for extra Unfiltered World Whisky Day on 21 May as the Society visitors. Turn to page 15 to learn why Mull content and the latest SMWS news.

SMWS.COM 5 SECTIONTHE SMWS

Illusionist Scott Silven will be performing at 28 Queen Street in August 4SCOTLAND 6CANADA THERE’S MAGIC CALGARY IN THE AIR FESTIVAL THE SMWS in A TOUCH of magic is Canada participated coming to 28 Queen Street in Kensington Wine this summer, as it hosts Market’s Spring Single the Edinburgh Fringe Malt Festival in Calgary performance of acclaimed on 9 June, with a DJ, food illusionist Scott Silven. and amazing whiskies. Scott will hold an evening of fine dining and whisky tasting throughout the world’s biggest arts festival in August, interwoven with breathtaking illusions. The performance will be accompanied by a bespoke menu created by James Freeman, head chef SKYE at 28 Queen Street. Scott says the overlap ISLAND between whisky and illusion is there for all SHOW TIME ODYSSEY to see. “Both illusion Scott’s show will take place and whisky delight the between 5-29 August at WINNERS 28 Queen Street, except Monday senses and challenge FOUR lucky members 8 and 22. The show starts at 7pm and 7 expectations,” he says. lasts two-and-a-half hours. Tickets will soon be receiving an “They complement and cost £59, which includes a three- exclusive signed print transform one another course meal and two drams of from our previous Island amazingly.” SMWS single cask, single Odyssey to Skye. Well done! malt whisky

AUSTRALIA Test your sensory PARTY prowess in TIME IN Sydney SYDNEY 5THE biggest competition in the Southern Hemisphere’s whisky calendar is back, as the Australian Malt Whisky Tasting Championship returns competition, a whisky for a huge, fun night on party, Sydney Cocktail 23 July. The event will Club Sensory bar, see someone crowned SMWS Single Cask bar the Australian Malt and more... all on one Whisky Champion night at the incredible based on their sensory Madame Tussauds prowess. The event Darling Harbour features the whisky in Sydney.

6 UNFILTEREDTHE SCOTCH MAGAZINEMALT WHISKY SOCIETY OPEN BARR What’s the STORY?

Like enigmatic characters in The author of The Long Goodbye and The classic fiction, great whiskies can Big Sleep created Philip Marlowe, the whiskey-loving prototype for all troubled leave you mulling their many detectives. He’s the fictional grandfather complexities, says Damian Barr of Ian Rankin’s Rebus. When he’s driving around in his battered Saab 900 on the case of another killer, Rebus tips a wink to the f I ask you to name your favourite distilleries he passes: Tomatin, Dalwhinnie novels you’ll probably come up Glenmorangie, Glen Ord and Dalmore all with three or four or maybe five. get mentions. He’s partial to Highland Park. Each book will take you right back Leave the gin to Poirot. to the person who pressed it into gets through & Haig, your hands promising you’d love it , Black & White and even Ior the summer you devoured it, which was Suntory. He would certainly savour also when you fell in love for the first time. Cask No. 3.263: Pretty But Gritty. Like You can still see the cover. the man himself, it’s sweet to start If I ask you to name three or four but stern to finish. Be tempted in by or maybe five truly great novels, the bourbon cask sweetness then nibble chances are you’d consider more carefully, smoked roasted almonds while you dwell more on a particular character or consider your next move. theme. Our favourite reads speak to our I can see Captain Ahab on deck taking a own lives but literary novels resonate swig of Cask No. 42.22: Brave the elements. outside ourselves. It’ll certainly keep him questing for the They may not be bestsellers, they may great white whale. A whiff of cannon not be perfect but they are the stories we Heavily peated smoke wafts from this feisty 9-year old. It can’t stop thinking about. Precisely because is salty, oily and suggests churned-up green of their mysteries. Great books, like great seas. It’s as adventurous and merciless as whiskies, are not flawless. In fact, they Melville’s doomed mariner. shouldn’t be. own mind. Is Thomas Cromwell a goodie Roald Dahl’s writing ranges from Tales of Thomas Cromwell, as imagined by or a baddie? Does he get what deserves? the Unexpected to Charlie and the Chocolate Hilary Mantel, lives on in the mind even Will you? Factory. A rich darkness runs through all longer than it took you to read Wolf Hall. Great whisky creates the same space. It his books. Dahl is the essence of 48.41: He is what we would now call a survivor of lets you think, it encourages you to take a Pink wafers in a ladies hat shop. Buoyant domestic violence – his blacksmith father view – your own view. Is this too sweet? with candyfloss and marshmallows, it is all was a brute. Yet he helps Henry VIII part Can I take more spice? Do I need to rethink silliness on the surface before descending Anne Boleyn’s head from her body even my peat prejudice? A dram that everybody into complex spice. though he knows she is innocent. Thomas likes is a dram that few people love. A Dahl wrote by hand in his shed and this loves the law but bends it to his own dram that a few people hate is a dram that malt even has a woody whiff of fresh pencil ends. He is patriotic but in the service of a everybody remembers. shavings. The smell of another story about bloated despot. We love him and we hate If an author likes whisky, chances are to be scribbled. him but, crucially, we never stop caring his characters do too. Haruki Murakami about him. Consider his wisdom: “It is the has characters down Cutty Sark in The absence of facts that frightens people: the Wind Up Bird Chronicle, 1Q84, and Colorless Damian Barr is an author, playwright gap you open, into which they pour their Tsukuru Tazaki. “There is no bad whiskey,” and host of The Literary Salon. He writes fears, fantasies, desires.” said classic American crime writer about drinks and the people who love Great fiction creates this absence – it Raymond Chandler. “There are only some them for . Follow him leaves space for the reader to make up their whiskeys that aren’t as good as others.” on Twitter @Damian_Barr

SMWS.COM 7 FLAVOUR BEHAVIOUR THE

TESTWORDS RICHARD GOSLAN A worldwide mission by the SMWS to uncover the links between personality and whisky preference is well underway, as Project Flavour Behaviour goes global

he SMWS has expanded its a whole new raft of data from around the experiment exploring the “What I’m really world to work with, and when I do the synergies between psychology and statistical analysis I can check to see what single malt, with a series of events looking at is a influence being from a particular location taking place across the world on has on any relationships that I find,” he World Whisky Day. connection between says. “But what I’m really looking at is a Volunteers at SMWS venues and connection between personality type and partner bars in Edinburgh, Islay, personality type and whisky preference, and personality type London, Vancouver, Melbourne doesn’t necessarily relate to geographic and Washington, DC, all signed up to take whisky preference” area. It’s a universal aspect of part in the Project Flavour Behaviour test psychology, so I would expect to get the T DR ADAM MOORE, THE UNIVERSITY OF on 21 May. In each location, participants same distribution of personality traits in EDINBURGH’S PSYCHOLOGY DEPARTMENT carried out a personality test and sampled Australia as in Islay – but let’s see.” a selection of 12 single cask, single malt Adam’s background is in decision SMWS whiskies. making and using individual differences in The experiment is being conducted by it comes to whisky. The results from the personality and intelligence to predict the the Society in partnership with Dr Adam international events on World Whisky kinds of decisions that people make. He Moore, from the ’s Day will be added to information already explains that there are five fundamental Psychology Department. He is currently gathered when 120 volunteers took part personality traits that collectively define in the process of analysing the data from in a Project Flavour Behaviour event in everybody’s personality: openness all the events, to try and uncover the links Edinburgh in December last year. to experience; conscientiousness; between personality and preference when “The World Whisky Day events give me extraversion; agreeableness; and

8 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY Kindred spirits at partner bar Jack Rose Dining Saloon in Washington, DC

Volunteers get in the mood at partner bar The Kilburn in Melbourne

Taking the test in Edinburgh

In the zone, below and left, at Jack Rose Dining Saloon in Washington, DC

SMWS.COM 9 FLAVOUR BEHAVIOUR

emotional sensitivity. from lots and lots of people. ABOVE and BELOW: “Everybody has varying “The more people who Australian members get into the social media mood degrees of all of these participate – and the more traits, and together they whiskies that you sample help to define your and subsequently tell psychological make us about – the more up,” he says. “There likely it is that we’ll are endless varieties be able to develop of personality IN HIS OWN WORDS an algorithm that profiles, but there Go to www..com/ can take knowledge smwssilverscreen to see Dr Adam are also hundreds Moore’s explanation about the about your personality and hundreds of Project Flavour Behaviour profile and map it on to different kinds of experiment any of the hundreds and whisky, particularly at the hundreds of whiskies that SMWS which bottles only you can try.” unique flavours that you can’t get The experiment is adaptive, and anywhere else in the world. Our goal is to will continue to develop as more data is try to determine a personality profile and collected. That could lead to an intuitive map it to the whisky.” understanding of whisky preference, based Along with the data from the Project both on personality profile and existing Flavour Behaviour events held on World whisky preferences. Whisky Day, the SMWS is also creating a “Think about it in terms of what services specific website where members will be such as Amazon or Netflix do when they able to take a personality test and find out suggest new books or movies for you,” what kind of whisky they would be most says Adam. “By using machine-learning likely to enjoy. algorithms and regression analysis, we “The test is to give people a fun want to be able to set up the perfect experience that will get them talking about whisky flight for everybody.” the experience of whisky,” says Adam. “The online test won’t be as accurate as the kind of formal personality test that I would Discover the perfect SMWS whisky for you conduct in my lab, but I can offset that by taking your own Flavour Behaviour test noise in the data by collecting information at www.flavourbehaviour.com

10 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY Kirsty Dunsmore pulls a pint of Paolozzi at the Edinburgh Factory LIQUID HISTORY LIQUID

WORDS RICHARD CROASDALE // PHOTOS MIKE WILKINSON HERE COMES THE

Edinburgh’s relationship with alcohol has survived boom, bust, war, prohibitionBOOM and political turmoil. From drinking-water treatment and surgical spirit to whisky making and craft , it has constantly reinvented itself, shifting with the city’s historical tide

SMWS.COM 11 vidence of brewing in the Scottish capital dates back to the late Iron Age, running through to the monastic of the middle ages. In Edinburgh, which was at the time effectively ring-fenced by lochs and waterways, the brewing process was an essential means of turning fetid, contaminated water into something drinkable. “By the 15th century, the path from the monastic at Holyrood up the hill to the old town – known to this E day as the Canongate (literally, the ‘monk’s walk’) – was home to several medium- sized public breweries serving Edinburgh’s growing population,” says alcohol historian John Martin. “The Canongate remained a famous centre for brewing right up to the early 20th century, by which time there were around 25 breweries on and around the street, and a total of 40 within the city.” However, two world wars and a rash of consolidation in the beer industry over the following 80 years effectively ended this diversity, leaving just two dominant Edinburgh brewers still standing: McEwan’s and Caledonian. Likewise, distillation in Edinburgh started out as the reserve of monks (again) and ‘surgeon barbers’, who made spirit for medicinal purposes. By the late 1700s though, the capital was awash with spirit. As well as eight licensed distilleries, there is evidence that somewhere in the region of 400 illegal stills were operating within the The still room at Summerhall city walls. These stills produced rough, raw spirit which was typically consumed without the mellowing influence of maturation. Despite of a veterinary college (several wrought- putting the labels on the bottles and sealing the romantic image of the Highland whisky iron cages remain) and two small, squat pot the stopper. People love that, and being in smuggler working on a remote hillside, stills. The distillery’s founders come from a Edinburgh city centre, in such a beautiful Edinburgh was a dirty, smoky place – hence construction and engineering background, old building, allows people to come in and the nickname ‘Auld Reekie’ – making it the which explains the labyrinthine copper see what we’re all about, including Marcus perfect spot to conceal an illicit still. In 1777 pipework coiling around the room, through [Pickering] filling each bottle of a 60-bottle alone there were 200 convictions for illicit funnels and taps, and ultimately into a batch by hand.” distilling, in a population of around 60,000. collector fashioned from the bottom of a Today, the city has only one licensed domestic hot water tank. It is a charming hisky production too is whisky distillery. North British is jointly Heath Robinson affair, which ties in set for a return to the owned by and Edrington and perfectly with Pickering’s general air of Scottish capital, with David produces large quantities of grain alcohol hand-made Victoriana. Robertson, formerly master for the companies’ blended whiskies. The process, including the all-important distiller at The Macallan, Distilling within the city is currently mix of botanicals, is based loosely on an old currently seeking approval enjoying something of a renaissance family recipe recorded when the Pickerings to establish The Holyrood though, primarily through the success of left India shortly after independence in Park Distillery and visitor several new small-scale gin producers. 1947, but forgotten about until Marcus centre on the site of an old Gin is ideally suited to inner-city Pickering discovered it in a pile of his late railway engine shed (see production, as it typically doesn’t involve father’s belongings. Pickering’s currently Unfiltered April 2016). on-site fermentation, wash distillation produces two styles: a classic London Dry, A brewing renaissance is already in full or maturation, dramatically reducing the designed specifically to accompany tonic, swing, riding on the wave of craft and amount of space required. and its ‘1947’, an older style with heavy Wales popping up across the UK. Barney’s, Based in the Summerhall arts complex cinnamon spicing, which sticks more Stewarts, Innis & Gunn and Pilot are well (alongside the excellent Barney’s brewery) faithfully to the original family recipe. known names in the city, and increasingly Pickering’s in many ways embodies the “We’re really proud of what we do and further afield. new way wave of Edinburgh’s small-scale how we do it here,” says Pickering’s brand The latest addition to the pack, the producers. It consists of a couple of small, ambassador Paul Donegan. “Every part of Edinburgh Beer Factory was established in tiled rooms which were once the kennels the process is done by hand, right down to 2015 by the Dunsmore family. It currently

12 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY LIQUID HISTORY produces just one beer; a German-style more fashionable ‘craft’ style. named Paolozzi (after Eduardo “Yes! We want people to think again Paolozzi, the often-overlooked Edinburgh- about lager,” she answers with a laugh. born father of pop-art) with a smooth “In German ‘lager’ means ‘storeroom’ and mouthfeel, cereal citrus notes and only the style is partly defined by a period of very subtle . maturation in cold storage. A lot of mass- According to Kirsty Dunsmore, the art market are only matured for a few of Paolozzi has not only influenced the days; we keep ours in cold storage for six design of the brewery’s branding, but also weeks. Paolozzi combined contrasting ideas its whole ethos. and ordinary objects in his art – something “I think people have this view of he called ‘sublime in the everyday’ – and Edinburgh as being rather stuffy and old- that’s really what we’re trying to do here, fashioned,” she says. “And it does have a make people reconsider a product that they lot of great heritage, but there’s also this think they know.” boundless creativity, irreverence and So, after so long in relative abeyance, why fun about the city. We feel the work of has Edinburgh’s alcohol production scene econd, Edinburgh has been in Paolozzi embodies that, and it’s the side become so fertile over the past decade? the perfect position to capitalise of Edinburgh that we want to take to the First, demand for small-batch, ‘craft’ on this boom, both because of world through our beer.” drinks with good provenance has grown its historical reputation and – I ask gently if this approach led to across the board. Consumers increasingly more importantly – because the decision to focus solely on lager – care about where their booze comes from, of the world-leading brewing which in the UK is often stigmatised who made it and from what ingredients, and distilling course at the as a ‘cheap and nasty’ beer – rather leading to an explosion of new breweries city’s Heriot-Watt University. than an IPA, , Saison, or other and distilleries across Scotland. Students from across the globe come to Heriot-Watt to learn the science behind their craft and, accordingly, you can find its alumni The heart of operations at working the levers in many of the most Sexciting producers the world over (see the Edinburgh Beer Factory Unfiltered Jan 2013). Needless to say, any new brewing or distilling venture in Edinburgh tends to get its pick of the litter. “You get a head start just being able associate your brand with Edinburgh,” confirms Paul. “And you’re already seeing brands flocking to the city because of that; some brands who really have nothing to do with the city are claiming a connection, while others are actually putting some stills here.” Thirdly, Edinburgh has cemented its reputation for outstanding , bars and mixologists. Cocktail scene stalwarts Bramble, The Bon Vivant and The Last Word have been joined in recent years by Panda & Sons, The Devil’s Advocate, Lucky Liquor and The Voodoo Rooms. It is arguably the best city in the world to enjoy a whisky, from the old-fashioned charm of The Bow Bar and The Albanach, to the modern luxury of Whiski and The Balmoral’s Scotch bar – not to mention the SMWS’s own Members’ Rooms at The Vaults and 28 Queen Street. Beer lovers too are well served, with pubs across the city serving casks, and bottles from around the world, including the venerable Caley Sample Room, The Hanging Bat, Jeremiah’s Tap Room, Holyrood 9A and Usher’s. This means there is a ready-made base of receptive, knowledgeable customers in the city, who are often keen to support local producers and spread the word. “It’s definitely helped us get established,” says Kirsty. “We have relationships with some of the city’s specialist beer bars,

SMWS.COM 13 LIQUID HISTORY

where we’ll often run tastings. We also have our classic Citroen H-Type van, which we use for deliveries in the city. It’s a real talking point with people on the street.” RECOMMENDED EDINBURGH Paul agrees: “If you want exposure, the only place you could get more is DRINKS DESTINATIONS London. But even then, I think it’s easier to be seen in Edinburgh because it’s that

much smaller.” 1 Summerhall 7 Canongate Paul also points out that getting 2 North British 8 The Bow Bar 14 Edinburgh’s pubs and bars on side gives a The Albanach great long-term advantage, as the city has 3 9 SMWS The 15 Scotch at an unrivalled reputation for training and 28 Queen Street Experience The Balmoral exporting bartenders and mixologists “We are to bartending what Brazil is 4 SMWS The Vaults 10 Bramble 16 Cadenheads to football; we grow them and everybody 5 Holyrood Park 11 The Last Word 17 Royal Mile else makes use of them,” he says. “If you Distillery site Whiskies really look at it, all the big guys started off 12 The Devil’s Advocate in Edinburgh. We periodically have this 6 Edinburgh Beer 13 Panda and Sons clearing out of great bartenders going down Factory to London – they win awards and open up their own places and we get the next lot in!” Edinburgh has long been a great place to enjoy the very best beer and spirits. But today it is regaining its reputation as a hotbed for innovative, high-quality production. With a new wave of passionate, technically savvy brewers and distillers, the city’s long and proud alcohol heritage seems to be in good hands. 4

THE VAULTS – <6 OUR SPIRITUAL HOME WITH PHOEBE BROOKES, SMWS BRAND AMBASSADOR

The Society Members’ Rooms at The Vaults 11 in Leith play a key role in Edinburgh’s alcohol heritage. The present building is relatively young, having been erected by the Vintners’ Guild of Edinburgh in 1682. But the history of alcohol on the site can 3 10 be traced back to 1439 – when it was used 13 for wine storage by the Abbey of Holyrood 15 – and some accounts even have it in use from around 1200. 7 16 To soak up some of the history at 12 14 The Vaults, members can visit between 17 Tuesdays and Sundays. To book a private 9 8 tasting session, contact +44 131 554 3451 or email [email protected]

5 1 <2

14 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY TO MULL WORDS RICHARD CROASDALE // PHOTOS MIKE WILKINSON

D O D Y N S A S L E S Y I

I S L L L E O F M U

Nestling in the , Mull is a short hop by ferry from Oban. As one of the most accessible of the Western Isles, it’s a popular destination for tourists, many of whom come to experience the island’s single small distillery, Tobermory. Unfiltered made the crossing to discover an unsung whisky island with a welcoming heart

SMWS.COM 15 D O D Y N S A S L E S Y I

I S L L L E O F M U

Duart Castle on the Isle of Mull dates back to the 13th century

Single-track roads traverse the island

A washback at Tobermory

y arrival on Mull coincides “About 18 years ago, the farm changed she says, gesturing out of the window. “This with the first truly sunny day of hands and became organic. They started place is a bit crazy, here at the end of the the year, and the snow-capped breeding native Hebridean sheep and Kyloe road, but the people are wonderful and it’s peaks of the island’s hills are shimmering Highland cattle,” says Katrina. “Because where I feel at home.” brilliantly. The port of is halfway they’re small and hardy, Hebridean flocks down the east coast, and I am keen to don’t need to be kept indoors during winter, MULL-TIPURPOSE start by exploring the south of the island so the owners converted these buildings Katrina’s story is far from unique. Mull before heading north to Tobermory and into a weaving room and shop. They bought has a surprising number of incomers, who its distillery. these three beautiful old looms from a mill testify to the island’s generosity of spirit. The road to traverses that was closing down and started weaving Among those are the Reade family, who some stunning scenery, and I am full their own fabric. moved here from Somerset in England in of anticipation by the time I reach “I’ve been living in the islands for 15 1979 to open a dairy farm. When I arrive Ardalanish Farm – breeders of rare years now. After we married, my husband at Sgriob-ruadh Farm today, with its café, Highland sheep and weavers of high- and I travelled around all the places he’d shop and thriving Isle of Mull Cheese quality tweeds and other fabrics. Above lived growing up, including . It was business, it’s hard to believe the venture the clatter of the mill’s three 19th century supposed to be an eight-week volunteer began with little more than a tumbledown hand-operated looms, head weaver Katrina post, but we’re still here! farmhouse – minus roof – and 10 cows. Crosby explains a little of its history and “My plan is to return to Canada and open Like the Reade family themselves, how someone from Vancouver came to be my own woollen mill, but for now I have Sgriob-ruadh is now thoroughly integrated living and working here. a great job here, and this incredible view,” into the island’s ecosystem. The cattle

16 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY The picture postcard town of Tobermory

An artist works at Calgary Art in Nature

Katrina Crosby examines yarn on the loom

feed on nutritious draff (waste grain) question is how many jobs they have. BACK IN BUSINESS from Tobermory distillery – which Chris That is certainly true for another of Chris Tobermory consists of a spray of Reade says gives her cheese its distinctive Reade’s sons, Matthew, who I track down colourful buildings huddled around a character. Even the metal steps leading to to the village next to the white sand bay picturesque harbour, complete with a fleet the cheese cellar are reclaimed from one of of Calgary. of fishing boats. The distillery sits at the the distillery’s old bonded warehouses. Matthew is painting his boat in the south end of the bay, set into a steep hill Chris tells me how the entire farm is courtyard of his home/studio/café/gallery/ leading up to sheltering cliff tops. powered by a complex system of wind apartment complex. The diverse mish- Although Tobermory has a long history, power, hydro, biomass and heat exchange mash of interests has developed over the its fortunes have risen and fallen, along from the cheesemaking process. Despite course of 28 years, guided by the interests with so many small island distilleries. It was being a power-intensive business, Sgriob- of Matthew and his wife Julia. founded as Ledaig in 1798 (which now lends ruadh manages to produce more electricity “I’ve always been a sculptor at heart, so its name to Tobermory’s heavier, slightly than it consumes, and donates the when our family business was established peated expression), but fell silent in 1930, excess to son Joe’s biscuit factory on the I began creating an outdoor gallery in following a decade of prohibition in the US. neighbouring hill. the land around the old farmhouse. That It reopened in 1972, but by 1978 had I am beginning to suspect that nothing became Calgary Art in Nature, and we now gone into receivership and was purchased and nobody on Mull has a single purpose. have our own studio and gallery building, by a property company, before returning This is confirmed by one resident, who where we also display work by other Mull to production between 1979 and 1982. advises me that you shouldn’t ask an artists. I wouldn’t even think about living During the 1980s, the distillery’s bonded islander what they do for a living – the anywhere else now,” he says with a laugh. warehouses were sold off for the

SMWS.COM 17 D O D Y N S A S L E S Y I

I S L L L E O F M U

Peace and beauty at Calgary Bay

Chris Reade dishes out the draff

Tobermory’s twin stills

18 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY Stillman Ian Brown

development of flats, along with the anything special. “You just do what you do. walk past a person and never see them again. majority of its maturing stock. If you’re not doing anything wrong, you’re “But that’s just a change – it’s not bad, Burn Stewart Distillers (now owned by doing it right. It’s as simple as that. and it hasn’t really changed the experience Distell) purchased Tobermory in 1991 and “That said, it’s always a little bit different of living here. If you need help, you won’t – barring a couple of dry summers when depending on the conditions. Summer find friendlier people than on Mull. You’ll the distillery’s private loch ran too low to will be different, winter will be different, never be stuck – even if you’ve broken down produce a consistent spirit – it has been depending on how low we are with the on some remote part of the island in the in production ever since. With no bonded water. Even if we’re making an unpeated night – because we know we all depend on warehouses, its spirit is sent to another malt, if it’s been raining a lot the peat gets each other. It’s part of the culture.” Distell-owned distillery, Bunnahabhain on churned up and makes it into the water It is arguably this deep sense of Islay, for maturation. supply. That also makes a difference.” interconnectedness that makes Mull Penned in by the geology of the bay, Ian has been at Tobermory for 10 years – unique. Whether you arrived five years Tobermory is small-scale out of necessity, meaning his first single malts will be bottled ago or five generations ago, if you are as well as choice. With three wooden next year – but his family connection to prepared to find a place for yourself you washbacks and two stills in a cramped the distillery goes back much further, with will be embraced and cared for. The line stillroom, when I visit the manual process is several relatives having worked here during from Tobermory’s draff to Sgriob-ruadh’s being overseen by stillman Ian Brown. the 1920s. “When I was young there was electricity to the 40 locals employed at Joe’s “There’s no computers here – everything very little tourism. You knew everyone, the biscuit factory is clear, and forms part of a is done by eye and by hand,” he says, whole street; you knew who their mother web of support that spans this welcoming, modestly dismissing the idea that this is was, who their great gran was. Now you can resourceful and special island.

SMWS.COM 19 THE KNOWLEDGE VOLATILE REACTION Unfiltered brushes up on the mysterious process of reflux to find out how important it is to the spirit’s profile

WORDS RICHARD GOSLAN // PHOTO MIKE WILKINSON

istillers are agreed that the more reflux there an impact – the harder you drive off, the more heavy notes is during distillation, the lighter and purer the go over the head of the still. The heavier notes have a more spirit will be. How they promote that reflux, ‘sulphury’ nose and take away the floral note that we look for however, can take many different forms. at Fettercairn.” “Reflux is affected by various factors including the length of the swan neck, the THE SHORT AND THE FAST Dambient air temperature around the neck, the strength of If tall stills promote reflux due to the distance the vapours have low wines and feints charge, and the rate of distillation,” to travel before reaching the condensers, Laphroaig’s short stills says Denis Nicol, whose experience in the whisky industry would appear to have less reflux, promoting a heavier spirit. includes roles as analytical chemist at Hiram Walker & Sons But the set-up at the distillery is more complicated than that, as and manager at both Tormore on Speyside and Laphroaig on John Campbell, distillery manager, explains. “Even though we Islay. “Glenmorangie’s tall stills tend to produce a light spirit, have these small stills, our lyne arms go up the way and we distil for example. They are the shape of typical gin stills, where a very slowly, about 5.5 litres per second. Because of that and the light-rectified spirit is usually distilled with botanicals. angle of the lyne arm, we’re not pushing the vapours over. The height of the stills has the effect of a purifier, Laphroaig is actually a very light spirit, body wise,

sending compounds with high boiling points – because of this, with the reflux giving it fruit and such as higher alcohols or higher fatty acid SMWS all of these other estery flavours as well, it helps esters – back into the still.” to promote them. TOP TIP “Our number one spirit still is exactly THE LONG AND SLOW Let your dram sit for a double the size and shape of the three while. A centimetre or two Jura is another distillery with tall wash stills, above the liquid level is a others, with the lyne arm at the same angle, with a large area of copper in the neck for rippling transparent line of but we run it faster, at 8.1 litres per second. vapours to condense and return to the pot. condensate extending Because of that, we get a completely different “Our distillation rate is quite high so there round the glass. This is spirit characteristic compared with the three is less reflux than in the spirit stills as the the reflux line wee ones, with more oily, grassy notes coming vapours have less condensing time on the sides through. When the spirits are married, it gives of the still,” says Graham Logan, distillery manager at greater depth of flavour and layers of complexity.” Jura. “In the spirit stills, the distillation rate is far slower, so Denis Nicol has a final tip, to appreciate the effect of the vapours have a far greater chance to condense on the inside reflux. “Take a glass of newly poured whisky,” he says. “Allow walls of the still neck and return to the pot. Jura benefits from it to sit for a while. Lift it to eye level and examine the contents. the large copper area in still necks and the slow distillation rate A centimetre or two above the liquid level you should notice a in the spirit stills. Another factor at Jura is the angle of our lyne rippling transparent line of condensate. This is the reflux line, arm, which slopes up to the condenser, allowing more vapours the height of which is affected by temperature and the strength to condense, and giving us even more reflux.” of the charge. Dilute the dram with water up to the level of this Fettercairn takes a unique approach to encouraging reflux, line and you have the perfect water and whisky dilution for by running cold water down the outside of the still’s neck. savouring the bouquet, at around 20-23% abv.” “The impact gives you a lighter, more floral spirit,” says Stewart However you end up drinking it, when you take your next Walker, distillery manager at Fettercairn. “The angle of the dram don’t just stop to consider the cask, the age or the lyne arm will have an impact on the reflux and ultimately the provenance of the spirit. Spare a moment to reflect on the spirit. Also the speed that you drive the spirit off will have unsung effects of reflux.

20 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY THE SCIENCE WITH BARRY HARRISON, SCOTCH WHISKY RESEARCH INSTITUTE

1 High reflux means that more vapour from the boiling liquid in the pot is being condensed on the still neck or lyne arm surfaces and falling back down into the pot. This results in more copper contact for condensing vapours, which allows for sulphur compound removal by the copper.

2 Relatively low volatile compounds such as phenols normally distil over towards the end of the distillation (the end of the spirit fraction and into the feints fraction during spirit distillation). With an increase in reflux, they distil over relatively late and this may push them further out of the spirit fraction. At the same time, “Reflux is affected by various relatively high volatile compounds such as esters, which distil towards factors including the length of the start of the distillation, may get the swan neck, the ambient pushed into the spirit fraction. 3 Feints compounds are also air temperature around the pushed out of the spirit fraction and into the feints, reducing feinty aromas and tending towards a neck, the strength of low lighter spirit. wines and feints charge, and the rate of distillation”

DENIS NICOL

SWMS.COM 21 MAVERICKS OF MALT SONAT BIRNECKER HART This professor of European Jewish history set out to buy a house – but ended up with a still. SMWS brand ambassador Phoebe Brookes caught up with the co-founder of Chicago’s Koval Distillery to find out more about her unusual journey

hey may have had “People started reaching out to us and, Sonat is adamant they are not afraid of high-flying careers in seeing as we are both in our own way using technology and they do so via their Washington, DC, but when educators, we decided to start a consulting handcrafted still, made in Germany by Sonat Birnecker Hart and company, offering workshops for people,” Kothe Destillationstechnik. her husband Robert found Sonat says. “We believe in artisan practices but out they were expecting Together they have educated around we also believe in technology,” she says. theirT first child, they weren’t sure if it was 2,500 people via a distillery start-up “We collect big data – there are sensors the right place for them to put down roots. consulting firm they co-founded, Kothe absolutely everywhere, we see everything After visiting Sonat’s family in Chicago, Distilling Technologies, and have set up that goes on in the still. We can do that from Robert joked that instead of using their 130 distilleries for other people in the US our computer, iPad or iPhone. down payment for the house, they and Canada. “In addition to that we still have the should buy a still and set up the city’s artisan element of it because we make first craft distillery. all the cuts by hand. We’re able to watch That’s exactly what they did. The couple the still so we know when we need to moved into Sonat’s old family home with start tasting.” their new baby and invested everything they had in the company, growing it into oval’s style is bright, clean one of the largest craft distilleries in the flavours that come from country. The distillery, opened in 2008, is only using the ‘heart’ cut independently owned and family operated. of the distillate, a luxury But opening Koval wasn’t only a change many larger distilleries of career for Sonat and Robert – it had a can’t afford. The tails don’t major impact on the future of distilling goK to waste though – they are redistilled in Chicago. At the time, an Illinois law and become the base of Koval’s range of dating back to 1934 prevented distilleries flavoured liquors. from giving tours or tastings, or selling “Being able to do things the way we want their products. to do them and at the highest quality is Sonat successfully lobbied for a change “A lot of the people you see in the craft a source of pride,” says Sonat. They now in the law, and when it passed it launched a industry who are quite well established have responsibility for different parts local craft distillery boom. were some of our first students. It’s been of the business – Sonat deals with the “It changed the entire landscape for the really nice to see the whole industry grow marketing and the business, and Robert the craft industry in Illinois because all of a and develop, not just our own spirits, but production and the consulting. sudden you had a lot of people who felt through other people,” she says. “Having my own business allowed me compelled to open distilleries,” she says. Eight years later, Koval is producing to be a mum in the workplace, not just a Luckily for Robert and Sonat, they both organic whiskeys, liquors and specialty woman in the workplace. had backgrounds that helped them succeed. spirits. Their whiskies are made from oat, “I was able to be myself and a mum, Robert comes from three generations of rye and millet, and Koval embraces a grain- and have my kids around. That part hasn’t distillers in Austria, and both he and Sonat to-bottle process, sourcing local ingredients changed and it’s been empowering to be a were well-equipped professionally to start and doing everything on site – from milling woman and be a mum and run a business at advising others on how to set up a distillery. and to distilling and bottling. the same time.”

22 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY WORDS PHOEBE BROOKES // PHOTOS CHRISTOPHER NESEMAN

This professor of European Jewish history set out to buy a house – but ended SONAT’S up with a still. SMWS brand ambassador Phoebe Brookes caught up with the STORY After receiving an co-founder of Chicago’s Koval Distillery to find out more about her unusual journey MSt from Oxford and a PhD from the University of London, Sonat Birnecker Hart was a teacher and lecturer in European Jewish culture and history in both the US and Germany. In 2008, she gave up tenure to found Koval Distillery, the first in Chicago since the 1800s. Koval’s spirits have won gold medals on both sides of the Atlantic and their distribution now reaches about 25 states, as well as Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Japan, Canada and Australia. All of Koval’s whiskies are single cask expressions aged in 30 gallon charred .

SMWS.COM 23 SOUND AND

VISIONWORDS RICHARD GOSLAN It takes a sense of belief to challenge conventional wisdom and continue to follow your instincts, to deliver products that will always stand out from the crowd

ABOVE An example of the collaboration between Linn Products and TIM WRIGHT luxury textile and interior designers, Timorous Beasties

24 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY ONE OF A KIND

inn Products managing director Gilad Tiefenbrun can’t confirm for me the legend that David Bowie had a different Linn system set up in every room of his house. “That story’s been around since before I started working here, and it must have come from one of our retailers,” he tells me. “What I can tell you is that I bumped into Lou Reed one day in his hotel near Glasgow, before a gig. I knew he had a Linn turntable so I asked him if he wanted to visit the factory. Despite his intimidating reputation, he was lovely – I gave him a tour, before we sat here and Every Linn listened L to some music – the Velvet Underground, I product includes think it was.” the name of the person I’m fortunate enough to be following in Lou’s who built it footsteps today, with a tour of the Linn factory tucked away in rural Waterfoot on the south side of Glasgow, followed by a chat and listening session with Gilad. “My father including the best sounding original studio masters. Linn has been synonymous with the best quality You could never do that with CDs.” music systems in the world since it was founded on thought he Gilad admits that the hi-fi world has much the edge of Glasgow’s Linn Park by Gilad’s father Ivor in common with whisky when it comes to the in 1973. The story goes that when Ivor got married, could get perception that it’s a man’s world. Now, the instead of using the gift money to furnish his home, company is looking to broaden its market through he spent it all on a top-of-the-range hi-fi – only to a better a collaboration with luxury textile and interior find himself disappointed with the quality (there’s no designers, Timorous Beasties, with a range record of the new Mrs Tiefenbrun’s reaction). sound by of specially adapted fabric designs for the Series 5 “At the time the prevailing wisdom was that speaker systems. speakers were the only things that mattered in a extracting “No one has been able to deliver a fabric-covered hi-fi, because that’s where the sound comes out,” more system without compromising the speaker’s sound, says Gilad. “My father thought he could get a better but our intelligent Exakt technology compensates sound by extracting more information from the vinyl, information for the material,” says Gilad. “We created our so he designed a turntable from scratch.” own bespoke Linn Fabrik for Series 5, which is That turntable turned out to be the Sondek from the then printed with the Timorous Beasties design LP12, which continues to set the standard for vinyl at Glasgow School of Art’s Centre for Advanced playback to this day, and was the focus for Linn’s vinyl, so he Textiles. The speakers look and sound amazing and business until the early 90s – and the arrival of the put us in front of a larger range of people who might compact disc. designed a not consider themselves hi-fi connoisseurs, but still “We learned the skills to make a great-sounding want great music at home. We believe great speakers CD player,” says Gilad. “But although we loved Linn’s turntable are for everybody – just as great whisky is.” CD players, we never loved the format. My dad said from Gilad describes a Linn product as a lifetime when CD came out that it would be temporary, until purchase – which is more than he can say for his a more universal digital format came out – and he scratch” whisky. “A bottle of whisky for me is more like a was laughed at. He said vinyl would outlast CDs, monthly purchase,” he says. “I’m interested in it, so and people said that’s crazy. And he also told me, GILAD TIEFENBRUN I want to try it and share it, and once it’s open it’s don’t throw out your vinyl – because we’re going to there to be drunk. There’s a natural affinity between keep making the turntable better and better. He was music and whisky – both take time to appreciate, absolutely prescient in what he said.” both can change your mood, and both can enhance Linn pulled the plug on CD players as early as your quality of life.” 2009, to concentrate on digital stream players. “We With that, Gilad flicks through his iPad and we sit decided to send a message to our customers that back to listen to the haunting voice of The Blue Nile’s streaming was the future. We were way ahead of the Paul Buchanan emerge from the Linn speakers in game, but it came from an utter conviction and belief For more information, front of us, as if the singer was in the same room. All that streaming allows you to access any formats, visit www.linn.co.uk that’s missing is a glass of single cask, single malt.

LEFT Linn’s iconic Sondek LP12, over 40 years old and still turning heads

SMWS.COM 25 OUTTURNERS MATT BAILEY The national ambassador and development manager for the SMWS Australia appreciates a young bottling showing maturity beyond its years

CASK NO. B3.3: TREACLE BUNS IN A SAWMILL Age is a funny discussion in whisky, or in this case whiskey, but this certainly has to be one of the youngest ever bottled SMWS casks I’ve had the pleasure of trying. There’s a spicy aroma, initially with sawmills and honey. Aromatherapy oils, pancakes, raisins and fresh prunes. Date biscuits with hot black breakfast tea. The obvious hallmarks of a big bourbon are also on the palate with rich caramel corn cobs and toasted aniseed. After a drop of water, tangy fruits like blackberry and then cinnamon sugar dusting. The finish is long and sticky with the vanilla now evident and very balanced for a whiskey with so much youth. ANDREW PARK The SMWS ambassador in Edinburgh finds a couple of bottlings perfect for making the most of the summer sun

CASK NO. G4.8: CASK NO. 64.70: SPINNING HONEY THE SPICY CAKE CABINET Call it what you want, sacrilege, blasphemy This is the first distillery I poured at or the devil’s work, but I want to be 28 Queen Street over a year ago. refreshed on that rare summer’s day in There’s a warm spice and smooth finish Scotland. Adding ice to this superb single to this dram, making it ideal for after a grain turns it into an invigorating drink hearty BBQ. that has me harking back to drinking on a The sweet notes complement glazed sun-drenched terrace in Melbourne. No pork ribs and sizzling shrimps. When the flavour is removed by the ice in this unique, sun goes down you won’t be able to do understated style of dram. I dare you! the same with your glass.

Buy whiskies like these… Regional availability To buy these bottles, visit the shop Cask No. B3.3 is currently available to section of our website or call 0131 555 members in Australia, Austria, Benelux, 2929. Lines are open 9am to 4.45pm, Canada, Denmark, Poland, Switzerland Monday to Friday. Remember, in the UK, and the UK. Cask Nos. G4.8 and 64.70 the SMWS releases new casks on the are currently available in the UK, Japan ‘First Fridays’ of every month. and Taiwan.

26 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY KINGSBARNS PROFILE

THE LONGWORDS PHOEBE BROOKES // PHOTOSRUN MIKE WILKINSON

s home to one of the oldest and to the main whisky-producing regions. In local farm and was working as a golf caddie most iconic golf courses in the the past decade, that has changed, with at both St Andrews and Kingsbarns. It was world – the Old Course at St distilleries at Daftmill near Cupar, Eden on the fairway that inspiration struck. Andrews – the Kingdom of Fife is Mill in St Andrews and Kingsbarns in the “I was fed up sending my golfing clients well established on the Scottish East Neuk running spirit. out of Fife to visit a distillery and I thought, tourist trail. But for the single When I visit Kingsbarns I find that it’s the surely there’s an opportunity to create Formalt enthusiast, there’s been less area’s association with golf that provided a distillery close to the golf courses?” incentive to make an eastern the motivation for the distillery. Founding he tells me. “My idea was driven not by detour on the road north and west director Douglas Clement grew up on a any substantial knowledge of whisky,

A SMWS.COM 27 KINGSBARNS PROFILE

although I always liked a dram, but by trying to make my golfers happy.” The journey from golf course to whisky cask hasn’t always been straightforward. Douglas began by raising a small amount of money from his golf clients to get planning permission. Once that came through in early 2011, bigger investments were required. The turning point came in September 2012 when Douglas secured the Food Processing Marketing and Co-operation Grant Scheme from the Scottish Government, which awarded him Head distiller £670,000. The grant made the distillery Peter Holroyd a more attractive proposition and he was gives Phoebe a able to bring on board the Wemyss family, class in how to with their valuable experience in the drinks check alcohol levels using the industry. However, there was something hydrometer else that set them apart. “So many Scotch whisky distilleries nowadays are owned by multinational Assistant distiller companies and for me, being a ‘Fifer’, it Andy Colman under the was fantastic to bring on board not just washback stills a Scottish owner but one with ancestral routes to Fife,” he says.

hose ancestral routes, and their charming quirks, are highlighted throughout Kingsbarns. The most obvious is the doocot, a pigeon loft familiar to many Fife farm steadings, but now home to the first cask filled with what will one day be Kingsbarns whisky. There’s something about the way the cask is sitting there, surrounded by a soundtrack Tof cooing pigeons, which makes it feel as though it’s on a pedestal. Douglas takes me to meet the production team, and as we watch head distiller Peter Holroyd and his assistant Andy Colman in action, he tells me about the importance of the distillery’s water source. It lies 100 metres beneath us, where the water fell as rain decades ago and filtered through layers of rock, purifying it on its journey. Combine that water with locally grown and you have a genuine product of Fife. Douglas’s dream may have come from spotting a gap in the market in an area where golf is still the biggest draw. However, since switching from caddying to distilling, Douglas has immersed himself in the world of whisky. “One of the first things I did was join the SMWS,” he says. “It’s been a great education, going into The Vaults and learning about single cask whisky. Then I started travelling all around Scotland.” Although he claims not to be a “whisky geek”, when he starts explaining the importance of the two types of used by Kingsbarns – one from the US and the other from France – I can’t help but think he’s being modest.

28 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY But does it make a difference? There’s only one way to tell, and that’s to taste it. The Kingsbarns new make spirit is something special – add a few drops of water and it becomes incredibly fruity; ripe green apples, gooseberries and hay bales – qualities Douglas says come from the French yeast. Before heading back to Edinburgh, I ask Douglas about the Kingsbarns Founders’ Club, an initiative launched in 2015 on the distillery’s first anniversary. For Douglas, it was a chance to get people involved in the distillery from the start. “Other distilleries offer cask ownership schemes but we decided to go for a Founders’ Club,” he says. “We’re trying to bring on board founder members to join our journey and support us. In doing so they’ll get all the first bottlings of our whisky – in effect, you’ll be tasting all the fruits of our labour over the last seven years.” With that I hit the road. On the journey home, I wonder how the cask is getting on in the doocot, and suddenly feel a little impatient.

THE KINGSBARNS FOUNDERS’ CLUB SCAN THIS QR CODE TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT MEMBERSHIP

The Kingsbarns Founders’ Club is open to only 3,000 members who want to be part Douglas of the distillery’s history. After receiving a Clement in welcome pack, members will be the first to the doocot at own the distillery’s when Kingsbarns they receive a bottle of Kingsbarns Single Malt Founders’ Reserve in mid-2018.

The pot stills Members will be the only ones to receive a flanking either further exclusive Founders’ Club Reserve side of the bottle, each year until 2022. They will distillery also have access to special events and be able to provide input into key decisions in the development of the distillery and its whisky. Founders’ Club membership costs £500 plus delivery charges and is now available to buy.

SMWS.COM 29 WORLD WHISKIES The luck of THE IRISH

At last, the Jameson market faces WORDS IAN BUXTON a distillery. Remember those old stills that a challenge from a resurgent and sat in front of Bruichladdich? Mark has distillery, showpiece for William Grant & them working hard in his new Waterford ambitious whiskey industry Sons, is clearly conceived on an ambitious Distillery, making around one million litres scale. Their Tullamore D.E.W. brand is the of alcohol, but in his mind’s eye, potentially best-selling in a number trebling capacity in five to six years’ time. ll of a sudden I’m finding of international markets and, though That’s when the first Waterford whiskey, it hard – very hard – currently a distant second to Jameson, all single malt, will reach the market as, to keep up with Irish Grants are evidently planning for rapid and remarkably, the project is fully funded to whiskey. In his splendid significant growth. The distillery actually support production without selling any review in these pages back opened as Fionann’s article appeared, new-make or one-off casks. in October 2014, Fionnan initially to make the equivalent of 1.5 The key factor in making what Mark AO’Connor sketched the background to the million cases of whiskey annually. claims will be “the most profound malt changes and outlined some of the dynamic When I visited in March I discovered whiskey possible” will be the provenance and exciting pioneers who are re-making that they had already doubled the and traceability of the 46 different barley Irish whiskey. distillery’s capacity and were furiously varieties already being distilled, every one I’ve recently visited some of the new building warehouses and a bottling plant. of which will remain separate from field generation as their stills run hot. But Did I mention this was an ambitious until the final bottling. remember that many industry insiders venture? Be in no doubt, the world will Finally, back to . The Liberties will tell you there are two ‘Irish whiskey’ shortly see a lot more Tullamore whiskey. was once the beating heart of Dublin markets – the Jameson market and Remember Mark Reynier, scourge of distilling and, as such, arguably the most everything else – and the commercial the Scotch whisky industry and general important site for distilling anywhere in strategies of all of the newcomers, from renegade, from his work at Bruichladdich? the world. the tiniest craft distiller to the largest After a short break he has returned to Yet, remarkably – almost incredibly – it of the new operations, have to take that distilling, backed by many of his previous was all swept away. The last operating unyielding commercial reality into account. investors, but on a more substantial distillery closed its doors in the mid-1970s Not that everyone accepts it quite as scale, buying the mothballed Guinness and Irish whiskey entered a dark period in fixed for all time. The new Tullamore brewery in Waterford and converting it to its long history. For many years, it looked as if Dublin distilling, indeed virtually the whole Irish whiskey industry, would be Tullamore D.E.W. distillery, nothing more than a historical curiosity. courtesy of Wm Grant & Sons Scotch whisky had taken over the world and resistance seemed futile. Until today as, buoyed by the successful sale of the family’s Cooley business, brothers Jack and Stephen Teeling have chosen a site in the heart of The Liberties for their new distillery, the first to be built in Dublin for more than 125 years. Three gleaming stills are now working overtime and the first Dublin-distilled bottles are on sale. The Spirit of Dublin Premium Irish Poitín is a 52.5% abv “sneak peek” at the liquid that will be used in the coming years to produce Irish whiskey. Welcome back, . It’s been a long time!

30 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY THINK TANK An apparently endless choice of new expressions and limited editions are being released to meet the demands of consumers for whom individual style will never go out of fashion

Express WORDS TOM BRUCE-GARDYNE yourself ard though it is to blends that were later joined by a handful of simply a 12-year-old Dalmore and a 10-year- imagine, there was single malts, all sporting the magic number old Jura, people would go ballistic. The a time when people 12 on the label. consumer is fickle, and has to be stimulated smoked the same Then, starting with a trickle that turned with different styles to keep his or her cigarettes and drank into a flood, came a riotous profusion of attention.” In other words it is a consumer- the same whisky from new expressions to dazzle, delight and driven trend, and there are few brand cradle to grave. Friends and family knew confuse the whisky drinker. “The reason loyalties left. whatH to buy them at Christmas, and in why there are so many releases is because Prize for unleashing the greatest volume duty-free, God was in his heaven and life of all these whisky festivals,” claims Whyte of new releases has to go to Bruichladdich. was pretty straightforward. Adding to this & Mackay’s , Richard “I think it was around 430 in 11 years,” says simple state of affairs were some deluxe Paterson. “If I turned up at a festival with the distillery’s spokesman, Carl Reavey,

SMWS.COM 31 ILLUSTRATION OLGA ANGELLOZ

“It was a combination of genuine interest in variety, a desire to shake up an industry mired in homogenisation… and the fact that we were broke and needed to turn some of that stock into cash”

32 THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY THINK TANK

referring to the period since its rebirth peaty Machrie Moor named after a nearby example. That didn’t work because we in 2001. Many of the releases were just a moor, and the Bothy Quarter Cask inspired ran out of Laddie 10 really quickly and single cask, and some were controversial by the small barrels once used by local annoyed people.” like the 20-year-old pink whisky known bootleggers. “Our Smugglers’ Series is a Alongside its core range, Ardbeg now as Flirtation. Why so many? “Well, it was a nod to the covert whisky trade operating does one annual limited release, a special combination of genuine interest in variety, between the island and Glasgow in the 17th version of which, at a different strength, a desire to shake up an industry mired in and 18th centuries,” adds James. is offered to Ardbeg committee members homogenisation, and therefore intent on Hamish Torrie still gets involved in the first. Arran plans to offer “two or perhaps eliminating variety,” says Carl. “And the creative process at Ardbeg, and says: “The three completely new releases per year”, fact that we were broke and needed to turn key is to always keep your fans guessing. says MD Euan Mitchell, who is confident of some of that stock into cash in order to pay ‘I wonder what Ardbeg is up to?’ you see sufficient demand despite the limited retail the wages.” them think, and after each innovation shelf space available. He is also planning to Bringing Ardbeg back to life in 1997 was they say: ‘That’s great… and what’s open a second distillery on the south of the a similar struggle for Glenmorangie, who next?’ Anticipation is everything in Ardbeg island at Lagg. Meanwhile Bruichladdich, faced large gaping holes in the inventory it world!” Over at Bruichladdich, Carl Reavey Port Charlotte and Octomore are releasing inherited. Very Young Ardbeg was released insists the inspiration for new expressions around 30 expressions between them, in late 2003, followed by Still Young and is: “Very much liquid led. The only problem including single cask bottlings and two Almost There, until finally in 2008 We’ve is that we produce something lovely and ‘bottle your own at the distillery’ casks. Arrived or Ardbeg Renaissance hit the exciting – and then we run out of it. C’est la For all the industry’s creativity, you shelves. The man responsible, Hamish vie… it’s a problem and we’re working on wonder if some of the innovation that fuels Torrie, now Glenmorangie’s head of it. We expect to have fixed it in around 10 or such endless choice, smacks of desperation? corporate social responsibility, describes 15 years!” “Not for Bruichladdich,” says Carl. “Not it as “the peaty path to maturity” and says: any more. We innovate because that is what “The great thing was that it created a sense we do. It is in our DNA.” He admits in the of anticipation for Ardbeg and kept us front past as a private company it was a survival of mind.” As with Bruichladdich, there is a mechanism at times. “We still describe hint of wilful provocation in the distillery’s those days as a ‘white knuckle ride’,” he youthful bottlings and limited releases. “We says. “Sometimes it was a real struggle to smashed the convention that whisky had pay the wages.” to be old or have an age statement to be As for the idea that things have gone ‘good’,” says Hamish, with evident glee. too far on the new release front, he Probably the most classic release shakes his head. “Not far enough he was involved in was when in our view. We would argue that someone accidently vatted a You the Scotch whisky industry has 20-year-old Ardbeg with some wonder if historically been slow to innovate 12-year-old Glen Moray. “We because it became obsessed couldn’t claim against our the emphasis with consistency. Producing insurance and so we were brands that always looked and facing a massive write off,” is more on tasted the same became an Hamish recalls about the industry badge of honour. We birth of Serendipity in 2005. the word never joined the club.” “The key here was to be bold Not everyone agrees, and own up to our fans that ‘outrageous’ however. Leonard Russell, we had made a mistake and ask head of Ian Macleod Distillers, their forgiveness. They did and than feels there are simply too many Serendipity sold out very quickly. ‘good’ new expressions out there. While Launching it on April Fool’s Day he praises Ardbeg for doing “an added to the fun.” outrageously good job with their Among other whacky releases, he Ardbeg committee bringing out limited is particularly fond of Blasda “where we releases”, you wonder if the emphasis is upset peat freaks by deliberately taking the more on the word ‘outrageous’ than ‘good’. peating level of Ardbeg from 50ppm down Too diplomatic to mention names, he to 8ppm and putting it in a white, clear believes “some companies have pushed it glass bottle”. too far and consumers will revolt. If you When it comes to inspiration for start collecting a range and it gets more and new expressions, beyond the glorious more expensive it becomes frustrating. You cock-up that was Serendipity, Arran’s In 2005 the distillery decided to simplify can’t afford them, and you haven’t got space master distiller, James MacTaggart, says: things. Anything labelled Bruichladdich for them.” “Provenance, and products that tell a story, was to be unpeated, Port Charlotte meant Whether you view it as innovation or an are of particular interest to consumers, heavily peated, while Octomore was “off affront to consistency – the consumer has and as such our limited editions frequently the scale peated”, Carl explains. “That never been quite so spoilt for choice. sell-out. The Isle of Arran still has plenty was great, but then we had a difficult of stories to tell and we will continue to period when we thought we would cut draw inspiration from the island for our down on the expressions and produce Visit smws.com to express yourself with expressions.” Among them, he cites the ‘core’ bottlings, of Laddie 10, 16 and 22, for your own single cask, single malt

SMWS.COM 33 SMWS PARTNER BARS

CULTUREPHOTOS CC FUN

SMWS partner bars come in all shapes, sizes and styles. In Taiwan, art sectors, as well as tourists who are exploring Taiwan. They express their Caffé Libero is the result of a passion for both single cask, single interest in the décor and atmosphere that malt – and for a perfectly prepared cup of coffee. Unfiltered caught Caffé Libero provides, and the high quality up with SMWS Taiwan branch representative Eric Huang and café of the coffee that we serve. manager Shao-Her to find out more about the Society’s Taipei venue What trends have you noticed when it comes to the whisky world in Taipei? Shao-Her: Customers often ask us if we have whisky from Islay or Japan or Taiwan. Where did the concept for the bar come As a result we like to maintain a good stock from, with its mix of coffee and whisky? of whisky from these regions, and our staff Eric: I’ve always been into whisky, and are prepared to answer specific questions I met the owners of the café at a few related to these whisky regions. SMWS tastings. They were fascinated with the aroma and expressions that they Are customers who come in to experienced with the Society whisky, appreciate a good quality coffee just as they appreciate the aroma and more likely to try an SMWS whisky complexities of fresh roasted coffee beans, and appreciate its complexities? or the final outcome of a cup of coffee. Eric: Yes, definitely. The two drinks Those who enjoy a good cup of coffee, both place a strong emphasis on aroma and are particular about its flavours, are and palate, so customers who are very likely to enjoy the whisky that the SMWS particular with their choice of coffee are offers. Our Taiwan branch started to attract very likely to be interested in trying a members and orders from the coffee shop dram or two. owners, and then they came up with the idea of including a whisky bar within the Eric Huang has been in the whisky business coffee shop. Where did the inspiration come for the past 10 years. He is currently the from for the café’s design? SMWS Taiwan branch representative and Tells us about your collection Eric: The coffee shop’s image is aged and Caffé Libero’s whisky consultant. of SMWS bottlings sophisticated. The atmosphere is calm Shao-Her is the manager of Caffé Libero. Shao-Her: We normally select younger and comfortable, with a relaxing aroma His passion is in coffee and everything to do whiskies, so the price range is more of roasting coffee. The building’s original with it, and he adjusts the bar selection based approachable. Also, we found that these decoration was in the style of 1950s and on observations from the café’s customers. whiskies can have a stronger aroma 1960s, so the designer kept much of the Many thanks to Chloe Chen, general and flavour, which works better in an original décor, and incorporated ideas that manager at SMWS Taiwan branch, for her atmosphere where there’s a powerful he took from images of the SMWS’s home help with translation. smell of coffee. at The Vaults in Leith. We find it’s always helpful to introduce Scotch whisky to those who are new to What kind of clientele do you have? Caffé Libero is at No. 1, Lane 243, Jinhua the world of single cask, single malt by Shao-Her: We’ve found that many of our St, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106 identifying the region it comes from. customers are in the cultural, media and Phone: +886 2 2356 7129

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