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There’s so much to do in Austria, from exploring historic castles and palaces to skiing some of the world’s finest alpine slopes. All the choices you’ll have to make when planning your trip can be a bit bewildering. We’ve tried to make your task easier by compiling a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the fol- lowing pages you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Skiing in the : This is the rea- , where the chefs have been son thousands of visitors come to making the dish for decades. We Austria in the first place; skiing is recommend several restaurants the Austrian national sport. The where you can sample this dish. country abounds in ski slopes, and See chapter 3. you’ll find the best ones in , • Listening to Mozart: It is said Land , and Vorarlberg, that at any time of the day or although most parts of Carinthia, night in Austria, someone, some- Western Styria, and Lower Austria where is playing the music of also have slopes. The season lasts Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You from late November to April, might hear it at an opera house, a depending on snow conditions. At church, a festival, an open-air con- 1,739m (5,700 ft.), the Ober- cert, or more romantically in a tauern region extends its ski season Belle Epoque cafe performed by a until May. The daredevils among Hungarian orchestra. Regardless, you can ski glaciers at 3,355m “” drifting (11,000 ft.), even in summer. See through Vienna is likely the cre- section 8, “The Best Ski Areas,” in ation of this child prodigy. Try to this chapter. hear Mozart on his home turf, • Feasting on the “Emperor’s especially in Vienna and Salzburg. Dish,” Tafelspitz: No Austrian See chapters 4 and 7. dish is more typical than the fabled • Watching the Lipizzaner Stal- Tafelspitz (boiled beef dinner) lions (Vienna): Nothing evokes favored by Emperor Franz Joseph. the heyday of imperial Vienna Boiled beef might sound dull, but more than the Spanish Riding Tafelspitz is far from bland. Boiled School. Here, the sleek white to a tender delicacy, the “table stallions and their expert riders end” cut is flavored with a variety demonstrate the classic art of dres- of spices, including juniper berries, sage in choreographed leaps and celery root, and onions. An apple- bounds. The stallions, a cross- and-horseradish sauce further breed of Spanish thoroughbreds enlivens the dish, which is usually and Karst horses, are the finest served with fried, grated potatoes. equestrian performers on earth. The best Tafelspitz is served in Riders wear brass buttons, doeskin c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 5

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breeches and black bicorne hats. sang “How Do You Solve a Prob- You can watch the performances, lem like Maria?” as well as that lit- but you’ll need to make reserva- tle gazebo where Rolf and Liesl tions 6 to 8 weeks in advance. See danced in the rain. There’s also a p. 129. stop at the Felsenreitenschule • Cruising the Danube (Donau): (Rock Riding School), where the Johann Strauss took a bit of poetic von Trapps gave their final per- license in calling the Donau “The formance. See p. 241. Blue Danube,” as it’s actually a • Driving on Top of the World on muddy-green color. But a Danube the Grossglockner Road (Land cruise is a highlight of any Austrian Salzburg): For the drive of a life- vacation. The legendary DDSG, time, you can take Europe’s longest Blue Danube Shipping Company, and most panoramic alpine high- Handelskai 265, offers mostly 1- way, with hairpin turns and bends day trips. On board, you’ll pass around every corner—the stuff some of the most famous sights in Grand Prix is made of. It begins at eastern Austria, including Krems Bruck an der Grossglocknerstrasse and Melk. See “Boating on the at 757m (2,483 ft.); continues ‘Blue’ Danube” (p. 149). through the Hochtortunnel, where • Heurigen Hopping in the Vienna the highest point is 2,507m (8,220 Woods: Heurigen are rustic wine ft.); and ends in the province taverns that celebrate the arrival of of Carinthia. The mountain part each year’s new wine (Heuriger) by of the road, stretching some 1 placing a pine branch over the 22km (13 ⁄2 miles), often at door. Austrians rush to these tav- 1,983m (6,500 ft.), has a maxi- erns to drink the new local wines mum gradient of 12%. You can and feast on a country buffet. drive this stunning engineering feat Some Heurigen have garden tables from mid-May to mid-November, with panoramic views of the although the road is safest from Danube Valley, whereas others pro- mid-June to mid-September. The vide shaded, centuries-old court- views are among the greatest in the yards where revelers can enjoy live world, but keep your eye on that folk music. Try the red wines from curvy road! See p. 282. Vöslau, the Sylvaner of Grinzing, • Exploring the Alps: There are few or the Riesling of Nussberg, while places in the world that are as listening to a Schrammelmusik splendid as the limestone chain of quartet with all the revelers singing mountains shared between Austria “Wien bleibt Wien.” See “The and Bavaria. Moving toward the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods)” in east, the Alps slope away to the chapter 5. Great Hungarian Plain. The Aus- • Reliving The Sound of Music: In trian Alps break into three chains, 1964, Julie Andrews, Christopher including the High or Central Plummer, and a gaggle of kids Alps, the Northern Limestone Alps, imitating the von Trapp family and the Southern Limestone Alps. filmed one of the world’s great In the west, you discover fairy-tale musicals. The memory of that Tyrolean villages, the Holy Roman Oscar-winning movie lingers on, Empire attractions of Innsbruck, as a steady stream of visitors heads and some of the world’s greatest ski to Salzburg just to take The Sound resorts, including St. Anton, Zürs, of Music tour. You visit the Lech, and Kitzbühel. Filled with Nonnberg Abbey where the nuns quaint little towns, the Eastern c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 6

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Alps sprawl across the Tyrolean and stunning views await you at country, West Styria, and Land every turn. See chapters 8, 10, 11, Salzburg. Centuries-old castles and 13.

2 The Most Romantic Getaways • Hof bei Salzburg (Land Salz- • Stuben (Vorarlberg): The rich burg): Lying on Lake Fuschl and famous might flock to Vorarl- (Fuschlsee), this chic resort is only berg’s stellar ski resorts, Zürs or a 15-minute ride from the conges- Lech, but we think you should tion of Salzburg; it boasts a sneak away to the little village of breathtaking alpine backdrop of Stuben, 10km (6 miles) north of blue clear but chilly waters, Lech on the west side of the Arl- mountains, and evergreen forests. berg Pass. A way station for alpine Based here, you can also easily get travelers for centuries, Stuben was to Fuschlsee as well as Wolf- the birthplace of the great ski gangsee and Mondsee. The town instructor Hannes Schneider. In offers some romantic places to winter, you can take a horse-drawn stay, notably the Schloss sleigh from Lech to Stuben. Once Fuschl (& 06229/22530), whose here, stay at Hotel Mondschein main section dates from 1450. See (& 05582/511), a 1739 house p. 287. converted to a hotel. See p. 413. • St. Wolfgang (): • Pörtschach (Carinthia): Many On the Wolfgangsee, one of Aus- wealthy Viennese have lavish sum- tria’s loveliest lakes, St. Wolfgang mer homes in this resort town on lies in the mountains of the the northern perimeter of Lake . It’s the home of Wörther. Known for its lakeside the White Horse Inn (& 06138/ promenade, it attracts a sports- 2306-0), which served as the set- oriented crowd that wants to hike, ting for ’s play golf, ride, sail, and water-ski, The White Horse Inn. Lying 50km or just enjoy scenic drives through (31 miles) east of Salzburg, the the countryside. Lake Wörther resort is a summer paradise, with itself is Carinthia’s largest alpine lakefront beaches and cafes and lake, yet its waters are warm, often hiking opportunities in all direc- going above 80°F (27°C) in sum- tions, plus skiing in winter. See mer. We recommend staying and section 3, “St. Wolfgang & Bad dining at the romantic Hotel Ischl,” in chapter 9. Schloss Leonstain (& 04272/ • Mutters (Tyrol): On a sunny 281-60), where Johannes Brahms plateau above Innsbruck, this little composed his Violin Concerto and resort has been called the most Second Symphony. See p. 432. beautiful village in Tyrol (quite a • Bad Aussee (Styria): An old mar- compliment). Mutters, a central ket town and spa in the “green base of the 1964 and 1976 heart” of the Salzkammergut, Bad Olympics, attracts visitors year- Aussee is 80km (50 miles) south- round. The most romantic place east of Salzburg. In the Valley of to stay is the Hotel Altenburg Traun, it’s set against the backdrop (& 0512/54-85-34), a restaurant of Totes Gebirge and the Dachstein back in 1622 and later a farm- massif. June is a lovely time to visit, house before its conversion into when fields of narcissus burst into an elegant hotel. See p. 357. bloom. Bad Aussee lies only 5km c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 7

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(3 miles) north of the lake, stay is the Eurotel Erzherzog Altausee, and is situated in one of Johann (& 03622/52507), with the most beautiful parts of Austria. its rustic interior and spa facilities Long known as a summer spa that include an indoor swimming resort, it’s also developing into a pool. See section 4, “Bad Aussee,” winter ski center. The best place to in chapter 13.

3 The Best Castles & Palaces • Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna): Belvedere served as a summer home This Hapsburg palace of 1,441 for Prince Eugene of Savoy, the rooms was the summer residence country’s greatest military hero, of this powerful family that ruled who routed the Ottomans in the much of Europe. The great late 17th century. The palace was a baroque architect J. B. Fischer von gift from the imperial throne in Erlach modeled his plans on Ver- recognition of the prince’s military sailles, though he ultimately sur- achievements, although he was (at passed the French palace in size. the time) richer than the Haps- Even so, Maria Theresa spoke of burgs. Not exactly pleased with his the palace as “cozy,” where she “gift,” the hero made stunning new could retreat with her many chil- baroque additions and improve- dren and paint watercolors or ments. As a collector and patron of work on her embroidery. The the arts, he filled the palace with Hapsburg dynasty came to an end objets d’art. See p. 134. here when Karl I signed his Act of • Schloss Esterházy (Eisenstadt): Abdication on November 11, This castle in Eisenstadt, capital of 1918. See p. 136. Burgenland, was the seat of the • Hofburg (Vienna): The winter Esterházy princes, a great and palace of the Hapsburgs, Hofburg powerful Hungarian family that was the seat of an imperial throne helped the Hapsburgs gain control that once governed the mighty of . The seat of their Austro-Hungarian Empire. The power was built around an inner sprawling palace reads like an courtyard and designed by Car- architectural timeline of the Haps- lone, the Italian architect. Work burg family, dating from 1279 started on the castle in 1663, but with subsequent additions contin- the design was subsequently uing until 1918. Truly a city altered over the years and later within a city, the Hofburg houses received the baroque treatment. everything today from the offices The family invited Haydn here to of the president of Austria to the work on his music, and in the Spanish Riding School with its Haydnsaal, the great composer Lipizzaner stallions—even the conducted an orchestra for the Vienna Boys’ Choir. See section 1, family’s entertainment. See p. 193. “The Hofburg Palace Complex,” • Residenz (Salzburg): The seat of in chapter 4. the Salzburg prince-bishops, this • Österreichische Galarie Belvedere opulent palace dates from 1120. (Belvedere Palace) (Vienna): On a Over the years, newer palaces were slope above Vienna, this palace was added to form an ecclesiastical designed by Johann Lukas von complex. On the palace’s second Hildebrandt, the last major archi- floor is a 15-room art gallery tect of the baroque in Austria. filled with the works of 16th- to c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 8

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18th-century European masters. Emperor Maximilian I. In the You can also walk through more 18th century, Empress Maria than a dozen richly decorated Theresa made major structural staterooms. The Residenz foun- changes, giving it a rococo appear- tain, which dates from the 1660s, ance; the Giant’s Hall is an archi- is one of the largest and most tectural marvel of 18th-century impressive baroque fountains Austrian architecture. In the north of the Alps. See p. 234. palace’s main hall hangs a portrait • Hofburg (Innsbruck): This of Maria’s famous youngest imperial palace, built in the 14th daughter, Marie Antoinette— to 16th centuries, was the seat of with her head. See p. 334.

4 The Best Cathedrals & Abbeys • Domkirche St. Stephan (Vienna): regilding of statues and altars with Crowned by a 137m (450-ft.) gold bullion. See p. 188. steeple, St. Stephan’s, the Cathedral • Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburg): of Vienna, is one of Europe’s great World renowned for its 4,000- Gothic structures. The great Aus- pipe organ, this cathedral is the trian writer Adalbert Stifter claimed “most perfect” Renaissance struc- that its “sheer beauty lifts the ture in the Germanic countries, spirit.” The Viennese regard this with a rich baroque interior and monument with great affection, elaborate frescoes. It towers 76m calling it Der Steffl. The cathedral’s (250 ft.) into the air and holds vast tiled roof is exactly twice the 10,000 worshippers. The present height of its walls. Intricate altar- cathedral was consecrated with pieces, stone canopies, and master- great ceremony in 1628, although ful Gothic sculptures are just some records show a cathedral on this of the treasures that lie within. spot since the 8th century. In Climb the spiral steps to the South 1756, Mozart was baptized in the Tower for a panoramic view of the Romanesque font. See p. 234. city. See p. 131. • Abbey of St. Florian (St. Florian, • Melk Abbey (Melk): This abbey Near Linz): Austria’s largest abbey church, situated on a promontory is a towering example of the above the Danube, is one of the baroque style. On a site occupied world’s finest baroque buildings. by the Augustinians since the 11th Melk figures in the Nibelungen- century, the present structure was lied, the great German epic poem, constructed mainly from 1686 to as well as Umberto Eco’s best-sell- 1751. Honoring a 4th-century ing The Name of the Rose. The Christian martyr and saint, the view from here is one of the most abbey has as its chief treasure the panoramic in a country known for Altdorfer Gallery, whose most its views. This baroque master- valuable pictures are those by piece has burned many times, the Albrecht Altdorfer, master of the first time in 1297 and then in Danubian school. Anton Bruckner, 1683 and 1735, but each time has Austria’s greatest composer of risen from the ashes. After a 1947 church music in the 1800s, became fire, the golden abbey church was the organist at St. Florian as a restored yet again, even to the young man and composed many of his masterpieces here. See p. 298. c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 9

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5 The Best Museums • Kunsthistorisches Museum Jews. It’s estimated that some (Vienna): This art gallery, across 200,000 victims were killed here. from Hofburg Palace, houses the Visitors today can bear witness to stellar art collection of the Haps- this scene of holocaust. See p. 297. burg dynasty. It’s especially strong • Tiroler Volkskunst-Museum in the Flemish, Dutch, and Ger- (Innsbruck): In an abbey with man schools, with works ranging 16th-century origins, this from Rubens to Dürer, Pieter museum of popular art contains Bruegel the Elder to Van Dyck. Austria’s most impressive collec- Also strong are the Italian, Span- tion of Tyrolean artifacts. You’ll ish, and French collections, with see everything from mangers to works by Veronese, Caravaggio, monumental stoves from peasant’s and Tintoretto. See p. 133. homes. The collections sweep • MuseumsQuartier (Vienna): from the Gothic decorative style Vienna launched its new millen- through the Renaissance to the nium with one of the major rich and opulent baroque era. The cultural centers to open in Middle first floor contains models of Europe in some 2 decades. Archi- Tyrolean houses. See p. 335. tecturally stunning, this complex • Landeszeughaus (Armory) contains a treasure trove of art, (Graz): This armory, built between being especially strong in modern 1642 and 1645, displays 3 cen- works. The three major museums turies of weaponry, one of Europe’s to visit here are Kunsthalle Wien, great collections. Here you’ll see Leopold Museum, and MUMOK some 30,000 harnesses, coats of (Museum of Modern Art Ludwig mail, helmets, swords, pikes, and Foundation). See p. 129. muskets of various kinds, along • Mozart Geburtshaus (Salzburg): with pistols and harquebuses. Music pilgrims flock to see the There are richly engraved and typical old burgher’s house where embossed jousting suits and a Mozart was born. You can still see parade of armor. See p. 464. many of his childhood belongings, • Österreichisches Freilichtmu- including a lock of hair from his seum (Outside Graz): Sixteen egg-shape noggin, his first viola, kilometers (10 miles) from Graz in and a pair of keyboard instru- a wooded valley is one of Austria’s ments. Mozart’s first violin is also great open-air museums. This displayed. Even at the age of 4, he museum of vernacular architecture, was a musical genius. See p. 236. spread across 50 hectares (120 • Mauthausen (Upper Austria): acres), features some 80 rural The most unusual and horrifying homes with ancillary buildings that museum in Austria lies 29km (18 have been reassembled. The site miles) down the Danube from presents an excellent overview of Linz. Mauthausen was a notorious the country’s rural heritage, from a concentration camp, used in World Carinthian farmstead to alpine War II for the slaughter of Austria’s houses from the Tyrol. See p. 466.

6 The Best Historic Towns • Krems (Lower Austria, Outside the Wachau, on the river’s left Vienna): In the eastern part of bank, this 1,000-year-old town c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 10

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incorporates the little village of for frozen bodies and assisting Stein, with narrow streets terraced wayfarers in trouble. See p. 376. above the river. Many houses date • Lienz (East Tyrol): Not to be from the 16th century. See p. 149. confused with Linz in Upper Aus- • Wels (Upper Austria): Even in tria, Lienz with an e is the capital Roman times, Wels, on the left of remote East Tyrol. Set at the bank of the Traun River, was a junction of three valleys, this col- flourishing town. Emperor Maxi- orful town stretches along the milian I died here in 1519. Its banks of the Isel River. In sum- town parish church has a 14th- mer, mountain climbers use it as a century chancel with a tower from base to scale the Dolomites. The 1732. Across from the church town is presided over by Schloss is the house of Salome Alt, the Bruck, the fortress of the counts of notorious mistress of Prince- Gorz. See p. 400. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich of • (Styria): Pilgrims come Salzburg who bore him 15 chil- here to see the Mariazell Basilica, dren. See section 6, “Wels,” in dating from the early 1200s, with a chapter 9. trio of prominent towers. Both Fis- • St. Christoph (Tyrol): St. Chri- cher von Erlachs, senior and junior, stoph, the mountain way station the famed baroque architects, of St. Anton in Tyrol, sits at an ele- helped transform the church. The vation of 1,784m (5,850 ft.). It Chapel of Grace inside is the was a famous settlement on the national shrine of Austria, Hun- road to the Arlberg Pass and was gary, and Bohemia. If you’re explor- the site of a fabled hospice estab- ing Styria, this old town, both a lished in 1386. Members of the winter playground and a summer hospice patrolled the pass looking resort, is worth a stop. See section 3, “Mariazell,” in chapter 13.

7 The Best Outdoor Adventures Skiing is the name of the game in Aus- in Europe, as experienced by par- tria, of course; see section 8, below, for ticipants who have sailed over the a list of the best ski areas. alpine ranges of the Salzkam- • Biking Along the Danube: The mergut and a steppe-like landscape Lower Danube Cycle Track is a that evokes the Great Hungarian biker’s paradise. The most exciting Plain. A typical ballooning excur- villages and stopovers along the sion will cross river valleys, moun- Danube, including Melk and tain peaks, glaciers, and vineyards. Dürnstein, are linked by a river- For outfitters, see p. 458. side bike trail between Vienna and • Canoeing & Rafting in the Naarn. As you pedal along, you’ll Salzburg Alps (Land Salzburg): pass castles, medieval towns, and Known for their beautiful alpine latticed vineyards. You can rent lakes and roaring white-water bikes from the train or ferry sta- streams, the lakes in and around tions, and all tourist offices pro- Salzburg are some of the most vide route maps. See section 6, ideal in Europe for canoeing, raft- “The Active Vacation Planner,” in ing, and kayaking. Waters aren’t chapter 2. polluted and powerboats are • Ballooning Over Styria: Styria has restricted, making these safe and some of the best alpine ballooning idyllic adventures. See p. 254. c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 11

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• Hiking in the Zillertal Alps Hohe Tauern National Park, (Tyrol): This mountain paradise is Europe’s largest national park. the best place to hike in Western Part of the Austrian Central Alps, Austria. Instead of roads, you’ll the Hohe Tauern range cuts across find footpaths winding through Land Salzburg, Tyrol, and the scenic Zillertal Valley, east of Carinthia. Molded during the Ice Innsbruck. Alpine guides lead you Age, these valleys are filled with to some of the most panoramic pastureland, alpine heaths, vast scenery you’ve ever seen. At Zell expanses of snow and ice, forested am Ziller’s tourist office, you can bulwarks, fields of rock, and gar- purchase a Z-Hiking Ticket valid gantuan alluvial and mudflow on all lift stations in the Zillertal. cones. The park is also home to After that, this alpine world is numerous nearly extinct species. yours as you hike across mountain Much of this vast and remote area trails or ascend on lifts to higher has never been explored, but parts elevations. You can even find year- are accessible by car or govern- round skiing at Tuxer Gletscher, a ment-owned Bundesbus (the glacier. See section 7, “The Ziller route goes from Böckstein to Valley,” in chapter 10. Badgastein and from Zell am • Traversing Ice Age Valleys: No Ziller to Krimml). You can get car scenic thrill in all of Europe quite or bus information from the local matches that available in the tourist offices. See chapter 8.

8 The Best Ski Areas • Innsbruck: Tyrol’s capital, the at 1,304m (4,277 ft.), although its medieval city of Innsbruck, is set upper slopes climb to more than against a scenic backdrop of high 2,801m (9,185 ft.). Massive snow- mountain peaks, with good skiing falls attract intermediate and expert in virtually all directions. Two skiers from all over. St. Anton lies Olympic Winter Games have been at the eastern base of the Arlberg staged in the Innsbruck area. It’s Pass. St. Christoph, 10km (3 miles) somewhat inconvenient to get to west, lies almost on the Arlberg the slopes, but it’s worth the effort. Pass and is another chic winter There are five ski resorts around enclave. Four major ski areas at Innsbruck. Hungerburg is the St. Anton—Galzig, Valluga, St. local favorite because a funicular Christoph, and Gampen-Kapall— from the city heads directly to the are interlinked to form one big ski base station at Hoch Innsbruck at circuit. See p. 369. 300m (984 ft.). Nearby Igls also • Seefeld (Tyrol): One of the ma- enjoys great favor with its exten- jor international ski resorts of sive slopes under the Patscherkofel Europe, Seefeld hosted the Nordic peak. For the most extensive all- events for the 1964 and 1976 around skiing, head for Axamer Olympic Winter Games and the Lizum, although it’s the farthest 1985 Nordic Ski World Champi- from Innsbruck. Good snow con- onships. On a sunny plateau at ditions are generally the rule. See 1,052m (3,450 ft.), it has prime section 1, “Innsbruck: The Capital skiing conditions and a network of Tyrol,” in chapter 10. of surface lifts, chairlifts, and cable • St. Anton am Arlberg: This pic- cars that appeal to skiers of all lev- ture-postcard Tyrolean village sits els. In addition, there are 200km c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 12

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(124 miles) of prepared cross- • Lech & Zürs: In Vorarlberg, these country tracks. Seefeld is also neighboring resorts feature the known for its other winter sports, best skiing in Austria. They are including curling and outdoor also among Europe’s most exclu- skating. See section 6, “Seefeld,” sive ski resorts, drawing a chic in chapter 10. crowd. Both resorts cater to • Kitzbühel: This home of the novice and intermediate skiers world’s original lift circuit is a with broad boulevards winding medieval walled city and regal between peaks and runs that fall resort that in the 1960s blossomed straight back to the resorts. The into a premier international spot. resorts also offer high altitudes Visitors flock here in winter to ski and good snow conditions, plus a forested trails and broad alpine high-tech lift system. Huge ridges. The Hahnenkamm ski cir- chunks of skiable terrain above cus has more than 50 lifts at eleva- both resorts provide a 20km 1 tions of 800m to 2,000m (2,624 (12 ⁄2-mile) long circuit with ft.–6,560 ft.). The main season generally superior ski conditions. runs from Christmas to mid- See p. 406 for Lech and p. 414 March. See p. 387. for Zürs.

9 The Best Lake Resorts & Spas • Baden bei Wien (Lower Aus- “Badgastein: Austria’s Premier tria): Developed by the ancient Spa,” in chapter 8. Romans and then studded with • St. Wolfgang (Upper Austria): ocher-colored Biedermeier build- The landscapes around this lake are ings during the early 19th century, so lovely that they served as the set- this was once known as the ting for the popular musical work “dowager empress” of Austrian The White Horse Inn, by Ralph spas. Today frequent chamber Benatzky. Adjacent to the grander concerts and elaborate flower beds and somewhat more formal resort keep the aura of old-fashioned of , St. Wolfgang offers grandeur alive. See section 2, ample options for outdoor diver- “The Spa Town of Baden bei sions. See section 3, “St. Wolfgang Wien,” in chapter 5. & Bad Ischl,” in chapter 9. • Bad Hofgastein (Land Salzburg): • Bad Ischl (Upper Austria): For A select annex of the larger, better- more than 60 years, Franz Joseph known resort of Badgastein, it selected Bad Ischl as the summer appeals to anyone in search of holiday seat of the Hapsburg peace, healing, and quiet. Civic Empire. No other Austrian resort architecture and are appro- captures the glamour of the long- priately grand and solemn. See departed empire quite like this section 3, “Bad Hofgastein,” in one. See section 3, “St. Wolfgang chapter 8. & Bad Ischl,” in chapter 9. • Badgastein (Land Salzburg): • Pörtschach (Carinthia): It’s the This is Austria’s premier spa, with premier resort in Carinthia, the a resort industry dating from the southeasterly Austrian province 1400s. Hotels are almost univer- bordering the edge of Slovenia. sally excellent, offering the densest Site of dozens of fine villas, it’s concentration of fine lodgings in unmistakably linked to the good Land Salzburg. See section 4, life. See p. 445. c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 13

THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS 13

• Velden (Carinthia): The region’s undiscovered regions of Austria, most sophisticated resort, Velden near the Slovenian border, this is is the heart of the so-called Aus- the most important summer spa in trian Riviera. Despite the traffic, it Styria. It stands among rolling hills offers a convenient combination and vineyards. This is an area rich of bucolic charm and Viennese in history, natural beauty, and style. See p. 447. imperial nostalgia. See section 2, • Villach (Carinthia): The second- “Bad Gleichenberg,” in chapter 13. largest town in the province, it’s • Bad Aussee (Styria): Lying at the the gateway to Austria’s lake dis- junction of two tributaries of the trict, northeastern Italy, and region’s most important river, Bad Slovenia. The nearby village of Aussee is known for its verdant Warmbad-Villach offers warm beauty, healthful waters, and brac- springs that were favored by the ing climate. It’s also the center of a ancient Romans. See section 4, network of hiking and cross-coun- “Villach,” in chapter 12. try ski trails. See section 4, “Bad • Bad Gleichenberg (Styria): Aussee,” in chapter 13. Set within one of the most

10 The Best Luxury Hotels • Hotel Bristol (Vienna; & 888/ • Hotel Schloss Dürnstein (Dürn- 625-5144 in the U.S., or 01/ stein, along the Danube; & 02711/ 515-160): Facing the Staatsoper, 212): A 10-minute walk from the this classic six-story building is a medieval village in Wachau, this Viennese symbol of luxury and fairy-tale castle is perched above a class. It ranks with the Imperial as bend in the river. Above the hotel the city’s most glamorous hotel. are the ruins of a castle where The luxuriously appointed and Richard the Lion-Hearted was often exquisite rooms boast a cor- imprisoned. This exquisite gem of a nucopia of amenities. Velvet and hotel brims with history, glamour, silk, chandeliers, and double doors art, and fantasy. See p. 187. adorn the place and the ever- • Goldener Hirsch (Salzburg; attentive, gracious staff adds to the & 800/325-3535 in the U.S., or allure. See p. 77. 0662/8084): For some 6 cen- • Hotel Imperial (Vienna; & 800/ turies, this mellow old hostelry 325-3589 in the U.S., or 01/ has been welcoming guests to its 501100): Once a ducal palace— patrician precincts. With the city’s now Vienna’s most glamorous best and most professional staff, hotel—the Imperial is a landmark the Goldener Hirsch is the finest 2 blocks east of the Staatsoper. hotel in Salzburg. In the Old Built in 1869, it’s Austria’s official Town, near Mozart’s birthplace, “guesthouse,” often hosting visit- the building is a historical monu- ing musicians (Wagner stayed here ment, rich in legend and lore. long ago). A wealth of antiques Although rooms vary, all are fur- adorn the gracious public areas, nished with antiques in traditional and everything is gilt-edged, from taste but have modern plumbing the polished marble to the and appointments. See p. 208. glittering chandeliers. Opulently • Hotel Grüner-Baum (Badgastein; appointed rooms vary in size but & 06434/2516-0): A veritable vil- are generally regal. See p. 80. lage has grown up around this c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 14

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converted hunting lodge. The fam- hotels” have stood on this site over ily-run hotel has sheltered every- the years, and the latest incarna- body from Toscanini to the Shah of tion is the grandest of them all. Iran. Scattered chalets house some Windows open onto incredible of the finest rooms at this fashion- views of the lake and the Alps. able spa—each in the typical alpine Flanked by pillars, the glassed-in style. The hospitality is unequaled pool also offers lake views, and the in the area. See p. 269. hotel has an array of facilities • Hotel Schloss Fuschl (Hof bei ranging from a gym to a sauna. Salzburg; & 06229/22530): East The contemporary rooms, which of Salzburg, this medieval castle vary in size and design, are the and its outbuildings have origins best in town. Split-level suites are dating from 1450. Everybody also great. See p. 285. from Eleanor Roosevelt to • Romantik Hotel Post (Villach; Khrushchev has stayed in this & 04242/26-10-10): With archi- rich, lush setting of oriental rugs, tectural origins from 1500, this is antiques, fine art, and vaulted ceil- the most fabled hotel in Carinthia. ings. Diners sit on a terrace taking A hotel since the 1730s, it is a cozy in panoramic lake and alpine and charming retreat on the town’s views. The spacious rooms are main square. A pianist plays on the beautifully furnished and well terrace in summer. Rooms are maintained. Sports lovers feel at richly furnished, often with orien- home here with a nine-hole golf tal rugs on parquet floors, includ- course, indoor pool, and Turkish ing the suite where Emperor bath and sauna. See p. 288. Charles V once slept in the 1500s. • Grand Hotel (Zell am See; A solarium, gym, and sauna keep & 06542/788): Three “grand the hotel up-to-date. See p. 451.

11 The Best Affordable Hotels • Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth (Vienna; guests are housed in traditionally & 01/515260): Lots of famous styled and cozy rooms; if your win- folks, from Wagner to Franz Liszt, dows are open, you can sometimes have stayed in this building, which hear zither music drifting in from dates from the 14th century. It the courtyard. manages to be stately and homey at • Hotel Auersperg (Salzburg; the same time. Public areas are & 0662/889-44-0): A traditional richly furnished with oriental rugs, family-run hotel, with rooms of a dome skylight, and marble floors. generous size, this charmer has an The most desirable rooms are fur- old-fashioned atmosphere but is nished in a neobaroque style with still beautifully maintained, from parquet floors. See p. 86. its antiques-filled drawing room • Gasthof-Pension Sänger Blondel to its convivial library bar. It is a (Dürnstein; & 02711/253): Along warm, inviting, and cozy place to the Danube sits this charmingly base yourself in the city of Mozart. old-fashioned place, painted a See p. 213. bright lemon and accented with • Hotel Seehof (Goldegg; & 06415/ green shutters. It’s named for the 8137): This hotel, on a small faithful minstrel who searched the alpine lake south of Salzburg, dates countryside for the imprisoned from 1449. Rustic artifacts and Richard the Lion-Hearted. Today local painted furnishings add to its c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 15

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 15

old-fashioned charm. In summer, luxurious, but is it ever historic guests can enjoy the outdoor ter- and comfortable. See p. 340. race, but in winter, they come here • Romantik Hotel Traube (Lienz; for skiing. The hotel rents ski & 04852/644-44): Deep in the equipment and directs guests to heart of East Tyrol, this classic the nearby slopes. See p. 259. hotel rebuilt after World War II • Schlosshotel Freisitz Roith damage is the most desirable in this (Gmunden; & 07612/64905): remote and offbeat part of Austria. Built as a summer house by the Yet its prices are reasonable, and it Hapsburg Emperor Rudolf II in also offers the best restaurant in 1597, this castle hotel, in one of East Tyrol. Open your window, see the most popular summer resorts the mountains, and imagine you’re in the Salzkammergut, is now Julie Andrews. See p. 403. open to all. Converted into a hotel • Hotel Alte Post-Wrann (Velden; in 1965, it’s a winning combina- & 04274/2141): In the sophisti- tion of a baroque private residence cated summer resort of Carinthia, and a Victorian hotel. See p. 320. at the western end of the Wörther • Hotel Goldener Adler (Inns- See, this is an ideal choice for an bruck; & 0512/57-11-11): This “Austrian Riviera” vacation. Once hotel, which has hosted everyone the headquarters of a postal route from Goethe to Paganini, has a station, it was long ago renovated, history spanning 6 centuries. enlarged, and turned into this wel- Genuine art decorates the public coming hotel. Rooms are sunny areas, and the four dining rooms and traditionally furnished. The (including a Tyrolean cellar) are restaurant, with its massive ceiling local favorites for eating and beams, is very good. There’s also a drinking. Rooms vary in size but Viennese-style Heurige (rustic are nicely appointed, with wine tavern) serving the finest Tyrolean touches. The place isn’t local wines. See p. 449.

12 The Best Restaurants • Sacher Hotel Restaurant (Vien- classic and creative Viennese spe- na; & 01/514560): A celebrity cialties. If money’s no object, you favorite since the days of the might sample some of the 35 Empire, this is the home of one of tempting items offered on a rov- the world’s most famous pastries, ing hors d’oeuvre cart. A meal the Sacher torte. Against a flaming here is nothing short of exquisite. scarlet background, you can enjoy See p. 100. dishes that pleased emperors— • Goldener Hirsch (Salzburg; notably Vienna’s famous dish & 0662/80-84-0): Hospitality Tafelspitz, the most savory and has been served up within its thick herb-flavored boiled beef you’ll walls since 1407, but today the ever taste. Come dressed to the victuals are vastly improved and nines and prepare to enjoy a ban- the clientele is a little more quet fit for a king. See p. 101. refined. Few other places are as • Drei Husaren (Vienna; & 01/ elegant, and during the Salzburg 512-1092): Drei Husaren has Music Festivals, this is definitely been a Viennese landmark for the place to be. The chef prefers decades. It’s a lavish, sophisticated the grand bourgeois tradition setting in which to enjoy both and prepares meals with both a c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 16

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jeweler’s precision and a poet’s spectacular food served among imagination. See p. 208. meticulously re-created traditional • Restaurant Ferwall (St. Anton; Tyrolean decor. As business travel- & 05446/32-49): Set in the high ers and corporate bigwigs know, Alps near the Arlberg Pass, this its setting manages to be simulta- place attracts some of the most neously rustic and sumptuous. See discerning palates in Europe. p. 344. Since 1972, this restaurant has • Maria Loretto (Klagenfurt; been serving some of the finest & 0463/24465): This is the pre- fare in Tyrol, a traditional Aus- mier restaurant in the capital of trian and international menu with Carinthia, site of Austria’s summer innovative modern twists. The lake district. A specialist in seafood, restaurant celebrates Tyrolean the restaurant hauls in raw ingredi- country life. See p. 374. ents from the Mediterranean and • Europastüberl (Innsbruck; Atlantic, and its chefs fashion them & 0512/5931): Head here for into delectable platters. See p. 439.

13 The Best Dining Bargains • Plachutta (Vienna; & 01/512- traditional style but with only the 1577): The Viennese are fanatical finest ingredients. See p. 222. about their Tafelspitz the way Ital- • Weinhaus Attwenger (Bad Ischl; ian chefs are firm in their & 06132/23327): Some parts of standards for tomato sauce, or it, built in 1540, were already well American Southerners insist that established when 19th-century theirs is the only true fried composers Bruckner and Léhar chicken. No place in all of Austria adopted it as one of their preferred serves better Tafelspitz than wine houses. See p. 314. Plachutta, which produces 10 dif- • Restaurant Wirt am Berg (Wels; ferent variations! See p. 104. & 07242/45059): With a pedi- • Gulaschmuseum (Vienna; & 01/ gree dating from 1630, Wirt am 512-1017): Imagine a “museum” Berg boasts a vast wine cellar and devoted to goulash. Here you can flavorful food. Its modest prices find 15 varieties of this savory draw diners from as far away as kettle of goodies inspired by . See p. 323. neighboring Hungary, once part • Auerhann (Zug; & 05583/27- of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 54-14): Warm and woodsy, and Each dish is redolent with the permeated with the aroma of good taste of paprika, Hungary’s food and a convivial hubbub from national spice. There’s even an all- the other tables, this inexpensive vegetarian version. See p. 110. restaurant is in a building erected • Herzl Tavern (Salzburg; & 0662/ during the 1600s. Its three types 808-4889): Owned by the city’s of fondue and its fresh trout from most glamorous hotel, the super- nearby streams are among the best expensive Goldener Hirsch, the in the province. See p. 412. Herzl—in the center of town—is • Landhaus-Keller (Graz; & 0316/ frequented by some of Europe’s 830276): In a historic building most celebrated musicians, who with outdoor tables in summer, for some reason always demand this cellar serves some of the best the finest in cuisine. Here they local specialties, many based on get hearty food prepared in a old recipes handed down from c524380 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 8:50 AM Page 17

THE BEST CLASSIC CAFES 17

generation to generation. It’s 17th-century house is known for hearty drinking and dining here. its good Austrian and Italian cui- See p. 470. sine served at affordable prices. • Hirschen-Stuben (Innsbruck; From stewed deer to the best of & 0512/58-29-79): This charm- alpine lake fish, this one is a win- ing restaurant in a restored ner. See p. 345.

14 The Best Classic Cafes • Café Demel (Vienna; & 01/ heavy on the “Mozart drank cof- 533-5516): This most famous fee here” theme, but despite that, cafe in Vienna has a long-standing everybody likes the Glockenspiel. feud with the Sacher Hotel as to See p. 224. who has the right to sell the leg- • Café Tomaselli (Salzburg; endary and original Sacher torte. & 0662/84-44-88): Established Demel claims that the chef who in 1705, it competes neck and invented the torte left the Sacher neck with the above-mentioned to work for Demel, bringing his Glockenspiel. As such, it provides recipe with him. Why not be good a rich atmosphere as well as delec- to yourself and sample the torte? tably fattening pastries and end- See p. 114. less cups of coffee. See p. 224. • Café Imperial (Vienna; & 01/ • Café Frauenschuh (Mondsee; 5011-0389): Owned and oper- & 06232/2312): Deliciously ated by a grand hotel, this cafe was loaded with every imaginable kind a favorite of composer Gustav of high-calorie pastry, this time- Mahler. Favored as a lunchtime honored place is a cliché of old- stop by a chic local crowd, it offers fashioned Austrian charm. See “the most regal” cup of coffee, p. 309. pastry, or glass of wine in town. • Konditorei-Kafé Zauner Gesell- See p. 115. schaft (Bad Ischl; & 06132/ • Café Landtmann (Vienna; & 01/ 233100): It’s the oldest pastry 532-0621): The newspapers it shop in Austria and the emporium provides for its patrons are tat- that satisfied the long-ago sugar tered by the end of every day, and cravings of such Hapsburg mon- a haze of smoke evokes the back- archs as Franz Joseph. Today it room machinations of a meeting trades heavily on the aristocratic of political cronies from another associations of yesteryear, attract- era. Sigmund Freud claimed it as ing droves of tourists to its his favorite cafe, and after your baroque-inspired setting in the first 15 minutes inside, you might, resort’s center. See p. 314. too. See p. 115. • Café Munding (Innsbruck; • Café-Restaurant Glockenspiel & 0512/58-41-18): Plushly deco- (Salzburg; & 0662/84-14-03-0): rated and upholstered, this cafe Some readers of this guidebook offers a setting from 1720, torrents have written that their time at one of Tyrolean color, unusual murals, of this cafe’s outdoor tables repre- and platters of food followed by a sented everything they ever liked scrumptiously fattening array of about Europe. Inside it’s a little creamy pastries. See p. 351.